New Orleans

ORGANIZED TOURS 153
Orleans Tours (& 504/947-2120) are full of meticulously
researched facts and more than a few good stories. A very thorough
tour of the Garden District and Lafayette Cemetery (a section of
town not many of the other companies go into) leaves daily at 11am
and 1:45pm from the Garden District Book Shop (in the Rink, corner
of Washington Ave. and Prytania St.). Rates are $15 for adults,
$13 for students and seniors, $7 for children 7 to 12, and free for
children under 7.
Tours by Isabelle (& 504/391-3544; www.toursbyisabelle.
com) offers eight different tours for small groups in air-conditioned
passenger vans. Most of their business is currently coming from the
Post-Katrina City Tour ($58) (which is the only way they still show
the city apart from what is listed below and in walking tours). It is
70 miles long and takes 3 hours and 20 minutes. It still shows
French Quarter, City Park, and other places that date from the
beginning of the city’s history, but otherwise is highly geared toward
post-Katrina damage and sights, and is comprehensive. You will see
four levee breaches and go to Chalmette and St. Bernard to see the
Murphy oil spill (plus other neighborhoods that get overlooked).
This may seem exploitative, but most of the drivers are from these
affected areas, and this gives them work. Prices and departure times
vary. Make reservations as far in advance as possible.
Gray Line , 2 Canal St., Suite 1300 (& 800/535-7786 or
504/569-1401; www.graylineneworleans.com), like all businesses
around town, took a hard hit, between severely reduced staff (most
of whom, including the head of the local company, lost their
homes), and, of course, being a business that involves sightseeing.
Consequently, they took the controversial move of adding Katrina
disaster tours to their menu. Initially, locals thought the tours a bad
idea, but upon reflection, the majority agreed: These sights need to
be seen, so that this disaster, and its victims, are not forgotten. And,
as we have said, the only way to really understand the scope of this
catastrophe is to see it for yourself. Certainly, the company has gone
to great lengths to operate these tours with respect. Guides are locals
with their own storm stories to tell, tourists are not allowed to exit
the vans while in the damaged neighborhoods, a portion of the
ticket price goes to Katrina relief (and passengers can choose which
organization, out of a selection, their money will go to), and petitions
to various government agencies are sent around for voluntary
signatures.