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ecommended for claustrophobes. 626 Frenchmen St. & 504/949-0696.<br />

www.snugjazz.com. Cover $12–$20, depending on performer. Doors open at 7pm,<br />

sets start at 8 and 10pm.<br />

ELSEWHERE AROUND THE CITY<br />

Vaughan’s Lounge Tucked deep in the Bywater section of <strong>New</strong><br />

<strong>Orleans</strong>, Vaughan’s Lounge is way down-home—as in, it’s in a residential<br />

neighborhood and feels almost as though you’re in someone’s<br />

house. The long bar takes up so much room that people almost<br />

fall over the band at the end of the room. In the back room, you<br />

might find people playing Ping-Pong. Thursday—Kermit Ruffins’s<br />

night—is the night to go to Vaughan’s. Go early and get some of the<br />

barbecue Kermit is often cooking up before a show—he likes to barbecue<br />

as much as he likes to play, and he tends to bring his grill<br />

along with him wherever he is playing. Or you might catch a Mardi<br />

Gras Indian practice. Thanks to the many post-Katrina volunteers<br />

around the Bywater area, Vaughan’s has become a major scene even<br />

beyond its original NOLA role. Be sure to call ahead to see if there<br />

will be live music on—and be sure to take a taxi. 4229 Dauphine St.<br />

& 504/947-5562. Cover varies, usually $8–$10.<br />

2 Cajun & Zydeco Joints<br />

CAJUN & ZYDECO JOINTS 185<br />

Mid City Lanes Rock ’n’ Bowl Anything we just said<br />

about tourist traps and inauthentic experiences does not apply here.<br />

It does not get any more authentic than a club set in the middle of a<br />

bowling alley, which is itself set in the middle of a strip mall. Actually,<br />

as a bowling alley, Mid City bowling is nothing to write home<br />

about unless you like lanes that slope. But as a club, it’s one of the<br />

finest and best experiences in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. Certainly it’s the best<br />

place for zydeco, particularly on the nights devoted to Zydeco Wars,<br />

when the audience votes on whether, say, Geno Delafose or C. J.<br />

Chenier is the King of Zydeco. It also features top <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> rock<br />

and R&B groups and some touring acts. On good nights (though we<br />

do wonder if Mid City has any that aren’t), the dance floor is<br />

crowded beyond belief, the noise level is ridiculous, the humidity<br />

level is 300%, and you won’t want to leave. You might even bowl a<br />

few frames. While the owner is quite committed to keeping his business<br />

open and in this location, the ground floors of the aforementioned<br />

strip mall flooded badly (though the Rock ’n’ Bowl itself<br />

escaped without damage), and while the hope is that whatever the

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