New Orleans

104
CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE
“Early in the Morning” about it) would come to after local shows
and stay up until the wee hours telling stories and eating gumbo—
one of the city’s best. The restaurant had 2 feet of flooding, not to
mention mold issues, and rebuilding has come along very slowly,
despite benefits held for the Chases both here and in other cities.
(Ms. Leah is pleased she got a new stove out of the deal, though,
since she’s wanted one for so long. An octogenarian, she says she has
to keep going long enough to cook on it!) At press time they were
still struggling to open, but the wait should be over by the time you
read this. The Chases lived for over a year in a FEMA trailer outside
their restaurant, and they are as wonderful as their cooking. They are
everything that is New Orleans, and so make a stop at the restaurant
they’ve worked so hard for, once it comes back.
2301 Orleans Ave. & 504/821-0600. www.dookychaserestaurant.com. Call for
hours and prices.
Lola’s SPANISH/INTERNATIONAL “Please, oh please,
don’t mention Lola’s in the book!” beg our local foodie friends.
Why? Because this small, special place doesn’t take reservations, and
the nightly wait is already long as it is. But we are going to spill the
beans anyway while assuring you that this is worth waiting for,
thanks to incredible Spanish dishes, from various paellas to starters
such as garlic shrimp tapas and a heck of a garlic soup. Try to arrive
15 to 30 minutes before opening time and wait in line. If you come
later and there’s a mob, don’t be discouraged: Service is attentive and
food comes quickly, so your wait shouldn’t be too long, though we’d
either not bother on the weekends or bring a book. Don’t forget to
bring cash—and try not to get ahead of our friends in line!
3312 Esplanade Ave. & 504/488-6946. Main courses $8.75–$16. No credit cards
or out-of-town checks. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Liuzza’s by the Track CREOLE/SANDWICHES Not to
be confused with Liuzza’s, and not to be overlooked either. This
Liuzza’s is a near-flawless example of a corner neighborhood hole in
the wall. In one visit, you will either get the point or not; by the second
visit, the staff will know your name. By the third visit, you
might wonder why you would eat anywhere else. It’s not just the fact
that they serve what may be the best gumbo and red beans ’n’ rice
in the city, it’s the monster perfect po’ boys, including a drippy garlic-stuffed
roast beef (with a pinch of horseradish in the mayo) and
a rare barbecued-shrimp po’ boy (about 3 dozen shrimp in a hollowed-out
po’ boy loaf, soaked in spicy butter). It’s also the surprise