New Orleans

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CHAPTER 7 . NEW ORLEANS AFTER DARK
music, including the revival of the brass-band experience and a variety
of jazz and blues traditions. But the main asset may be Donna
herself, often monitoring the door to make sure you don’t bring in
drinks from outside and making sure you do order something
inside. She’s been one of the true boosters of new generations of
New Orleans music (she’s managed both the hip-hop-edged brass
band Soul Rebels and the new-funk ensemble Galactic) and has
helped promote awareness of veteran brass bands like Treme and
Olympia. As with most real New Orleans hangouts, atmosphere is
minimal, but spirits (liquid and otherwise) are high. The cover
charge for performances is usually no more than the cost of a good
mixed drink. Note: Donna’s is in a transitional neighborhood, so be
careful upon entering and leaving. 800 N. Rampart St. & 504/596-6914.
www.donnasbarandgrill.com. Closed Tues–Wed. Cover varies.
The Famous Door Open since 1934, The Famous Door is the
oldest music club on Bourbon Street. Many local jazz, pop, and rock
musicians have passed through here. One of them, Harry Connick,
Jr., played his first gigs here at the age of 13. 339 Bourbon St. & 504/
598-4334. No cover; no drink minimum.
Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub You might walk right past this
small establishment, but that would be a big mistake because the
1831 building brings some of the city’s best musicians to play on its
tiny stage. In addition to the regular weekend program of late-night
jazz (Fri–Sat from 10:30pm, Sun from 10pm), there are frequent
jam sessions in the wee hours during the week when performers end
their stints elsewhere and gather to play “musicians’ music.” The full
bar also stocks a variety of schnapps (served ice-cold) and German
beers. 733 Bourbon St. & 504/561-0432. No cover; 1-drink minimum per set.
Maison Bourbon Despite its location and the sign saying
the building is “dedicated to the preservation of jazz,” Maison Bourbon
is not a tourist trap. The music is very authentic, and often
superb, jazz. From about midafternoon until the wee hours, Dixieland
and traditional jazz hold forth, often at loud and lively volume.
Players include Wallace Davenport, Steve Slocum, and
Tommy Yetta. Patrons must be at least 21 years old. 641 Bourbon St.
& 504/522-8818. 1-drink minimum per person.
Palm Court Jazz Café This is one of the most stylish jazz
haunts in the Quarter. It’s an elegant setting in which to catch topnotch
jazz groups Wednesday through Sunday. The music varies
nightly but is generally traditional or classic jazz. If you collect jazz