New Orleans

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CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE
We have to admit that neither the cuisine nor the cooking of New
Orleans is all that innovative, with some exceptions. Many places
are variations on either Creole or Italian (or both), and a certain
sameness, if you are paying attention, can creep on to menus. Further,
there is a longtime citywide tradition wherein on those occasions
when a new dish does arrive, once it gains enough local
credence, it becomes a “standard”—in other words, you can count
on seeing it all over the place. This accounts for the omnipresence
of shrimp rémoulade on fried green tomatoes, white-chocolate
bread pudding, and a few other new “classics.”
This may sound like we are denigrating the food of New Orleans.
Believe us. We don’t do that. It will take you a while to notice any
menu repetition, about the same amount of time it will take you to
emerge from a coma that is brought on by equal parts butter sauce
and pleasure.
This is the city where the great chefs of the world come to eat—
if they don’t work here already. Many people love to do nothing
more than wax nostalgic about great meals they have had here,
describing entrees in practically pornographic detail. It is nearly
impossible to have a bad meal in this town; at worst, it will be
mediocre, and with proper guidance, you should even be able to
avoid that.
Please keep in mind that all times and prices in the following listings
are subject to change as restaurants may still have issues with
staffing or other economic ups and downs that may cause them to
change hours on a whim. You should call in advance to ensure the
accuracy of anything significant to you.
While it is true that the New Orleans food scene is dominated by
places like Commander’s Palace, it is also true that New Orleans
food is a classic shrimp or hot sausage po’ boy, dressed, of course,
and a nectar snoball from a local family that has been making those
things for generations. Places like that are brave to make a comeback,
so if you see one open, take a chance and stop in. Tell them
you are glad they are there. Ask ’em where you ought to eat next.
1 The French Quarter
EXPENSIVE
Antoine’s CREOLE Owned and operated by the same family for
an astonishing 160 years, Antoine’s sustained some of the most dramatic
Katrina damage in the otherwise relatively untouched Quarter;
a 30×40-foot portion of an exterior wall on the second and third