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152<br />

CHAPTER 5 . SIGHTS TO SEE & PLACES TO BE<br />

St. Louis No. 3 Conveniently located next to the Fair Grounds<br />

racetrack (home of the Jazz Fest), St. Louis No. 3 was built on top<br />

of a former graveyard for lepers. Storyville photographer E. J. Bellocq<br />

lies here. The Esplanade Avenue bus will bring you here.<br />

3421 Esplanade Ave.<br />

5 Organized Tours<br />

IN THE FRENCH QUARTER<br />

Historic <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Tours (& 504/947-2120; www.<br />

tourneworleans.com) is the place to go for authenticity rather than<br />

sensationalism. Here, the tour guides are carefully chosen for their<br />

combination of knowledge and entertaining manner, and we cannot<br />

recommend the guides or the tours highly enough. The daily French<br />

Quarter tours are the best straightforward, nonspecialized walking<br />

tours of this neighborhood. They also offer a Voodoo tour, a<br />

Haunted tour, and a Garden District tour. Costs for all tours are<br />

$15 adults, $13 students and seniors with ID, $7 children ages 6 to<br />

12, and free for children under 6.<br />

The Bienville Foundation , run by Roberts Batson (& 504/<br />

945-6789; info@decafest.org; www.decafest.org), offers a live-onstage<br />

Scandal Tour entitled “Amazing Place, This <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>,”<br />

and a highly popular and recommended Gay Heritage Tour. The<br />

tours last roughly 2 1 ⁄2 hours and generally cost $20 per person.<br />

Times and departure locations also change seasonally, so call or<br />

e-mail to find out what’s happening when.<br />

Kenneth Holdrich, a professor of American literature at the University<br />

of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, runs Heritage Literary Tours , 732<br />

Frenchmen St. (& 504/949-9805). Aside from his considerable<br />

academic credentials, he knew both Tennessee Williams and the<br />

mother of John Kennedy Toole. In addition to a general tour about<br />

the considerable literary legacy of the French Quarter, some tours,<br />

arranged in advance, can be designed around a specific author, like<br />

the Tennessee Williams tour. The narratives are full of facts both literary<br />

and historical, are loaded with anecdotes, and are often downright<br />

humorous. Group tours ($20 per person for adults) can be<br />

“scheduled for your convenience.”<br />

BEYOND THE FRENCH QUARTER<br />

Author Robert Florence (who has written two excellent books about<br />

<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cemeteries) loves his work, and his Historic <strong>New</strong>

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