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Basin sin St. t LOUIS ARMSTRONG PARK Voodoo N N. Rampart Ra art St. St Spiritual Temple 11 Lake Pontchartrain CITY 10 PARK Burgundy BBurgundy gundy St. SSt. 10 Area of detail 610 10 1 Da Dauphine phine St. 8 FRENCH QUARTER 5 9 VIEUX CARRE LOOP 20 6 15 18 21 23 24 Bourbon Bourb Bourbon n St. St St. Bourbon BBourbon rb n St. t Superdome � 2 � 3 4 7 Royal RRoyal ya St. t 16 22 19 17 St. t AAnthony’s tho y’s Square 25 26 Chartres Chartr Chartres s St. Chartres Char Chartres res St. 27 VIEUX CARRE CA RE LOOP 12 U.S. Custom House CANAL 13 i 14 i DDecatur t St St. Jackson Brewery Old Ursuline Convent 28 29 30 31 Old UU.S. S. MMint n PLACE WOLDENB WOLDENBERG RIVERFR RIVERFRONT PARK Aquariu Aquarium of th the Americas Riverboat Docks 0 0 1/8 mile 100 meters i CCanal n St. t Canal C nal St. St Iberville Iber Iberville le St. St Bienville Bienv Bienville e St. St St. Clinton St. Cl on S . N. Peters St. N C ay St. N. Clay St. Conti ti St. t N. F ont St. N. Front St. St. LLouis uis St. RIVERFRONT STREETCAR R VERFRONT STREETCAR Toulouse TToulouse ulouse St. SSt. St. Peter eter St. St. An Ann S St. . Wilkinson Pirate's a e s Al A ley ey P. AAntoines to nes The Abbey 28 Apple Barrel 31 Beque's at the Royal Sonesta 7 The Bombay Club 5 The Bourbon Pub- Parade Disco 21 Cafe Brasil 27 Cafe Lafitte in Exile 23 Carousel Bar & Lounge 3 Checkpoint Charlie's 30 The Corner Pocket 8 Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse 2 Donna's 11 The Famous Door 6 Feelings Cafe 31 French 75 4 Fritzel's European Jazz Pub 18 Golden Lantern 25 JACKSON JACKSON SQUARE SQUARE MMadison d St. t MOON WALK Dumai Dumaine e St St. M i s s i s s i p p i R i v e r French Quarter Nightlife St St. Philip h p St St. U Ursulines Ave. Mississippi Go Governor e n r NNicholls chol St. St. French Market Pl FRENCH FRENCH MARKET MARKET B N Pete Peters s S St. Information Riverwalk streetcar route/stops Vieux Carre loop route/stops Good Friends Bar & Queen's Head Pub 20 House of Blues 12 Kerry Irish Pub 13 Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop 24 LeRoundup 9 Library Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton 1 Mason Bourbon 15 Napoleon House Bar & Café 14 Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro 19 Oz 22 Palm Court Jazz Café 29 Pat O'Brien's 17 Preservation Hall 16 R Bar and Royal Street Inn 26 Rawhide 10 Snug Harbor 31 � � � 183
184 CHAPTER 7 . NEW ORLEANS AFTER DARK records, peek at the records for sale in a back alcove. Tip: You might want to make reservations—it’s that kind of place. 1204 Decatur St. & 504/525-0200. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. Cover $5 per person at tables; no cover at bar. Preservation Hall The gray, bombed-out building that looks as if it were erected just shortly after the dawn of time (or at least the dawn of New Orleans) doesn’t seem like much, but it’s a mecca for traditional-jazz fans. This is an essential spot for anyone coming to New Orleans. No amplification, no air-conditioning—it doesn’t get any more authentic than this. It’s not quite as dirt-cheap as it used to be, but it still is one of your must-do stops on your trip. With no seats, terrible sightlines, and constant crowds, you won’t be able to see much, but you won’t care because you will be having a too fun and cheerfully sweaty time. Patrons start lining up at 6:15pm—the doors open at 8pm, so the trick to avoid the line is to get here either just as the doors open or later in the evening. The band plays until midnight, and the first audience usually empties out around 10pm. A sign on the wall gives prices for requests—figure on $10 for “Saints Go Marchin’ In,” $5 for everything else. Or just offer something. Thanks to the casual atmosphere, not to mention the cheap cover, Preservation Hall is one of the few nightspots where it’s appropriate to take kids. Early in the evening you’ll notice a number of local families doing just that. Call ahead for current open hours. 726 St. Peter St. & 888/946-JAZZ or 504/522-2841. www.preservation hall.com. Cover $8. Snug Harbor If your idea of jazz extends beyond Dixieland and if you prefer a concert-type setting over a messy nightclub, get your hands on Snug Harbor’s monthly schedule. On the fringes of the French Quarter (1 block beyond Esplanade Ave.), Snug Harbor is the city’s premier showcase for contemporary jazz, with a few blues and R&B combos thrown in for good measure. This is the surest place to find Ellis Marsalis (patriarch of the Marsalis dynasty) and Charmaine Neville (of the Neville family). Not only does Snug offer good music, but the two-level seating provides generally good viewing of the bandstand. (Beware the pillars upstairs, especially if you don’t get seats along the rail and have to sit a way back, though.) You should buy tickets in advance, but be warned: Waiting for a show usually means hanging in the crowded, low-ceilinged bar, where personal space is at a minimum—not
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P O R T A B L E New Orleans 8th Edi
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thank you to the ci
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FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS,ICONS & AB
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2 INTRODUCTION look like a cemetery
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1 Planning Your Trip to New Orleans
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6 CHAPTER 1 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO
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2 Getting to Know New Orleans At th
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26 CHAPTER 2 . GETTING TO KNOW NEW
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3 Where to Stay If you’re doing y
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Where to Stay in New Orleans 40 Val
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42 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY freque
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44 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY blocks
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46 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY D. H.
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48 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY outdoo
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50 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY the ic
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52 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY St. Lo
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54 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY atmosp
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56 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY old ho
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58 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY Mary J
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60 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY 2275 B
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62 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY furnit
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70 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY The Wh
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72 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY 5 Upto
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74 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY Maison
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76 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY 3811 S
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78 CHAPTER 3 . WHERE TO STAY bright
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Where to Dine in New Orleans 80 Jef
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82 CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE We hav
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86 CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE demi-g
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90 CHAPTER 4 . WHERE TO DINE K-Paul
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New Orleans Attractions Valmont Al
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128 CHAPTER 5 . SIGHTS TO SEE & PLA
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Page 209 and 210: GENERAL INDEX Abbey, The 190-191 Ac
Page 211 and 212: 200 INDEX Lafitte’s Blacksmith Sh
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