Vol.I - The Coptic Orthodox Church

CH. v.] Minor Churches of Old Cairo. 261
and from the enclosed space two vertical lines divide
off a square, leaving side compartments, which are
worked over with fine feathery scrolls. In the midst
of the square stands out a fine large cross with pear-
shaped branches starting from a central boss : and
decked with
all the remaining surface is richly
flowers closely resembling the Rhodian or the Per-
sian cornflower. The five crosses and the flat border
round the central cross are delicately gilt. Alto-
gether it is a sumptuous and really glorious
work of
art one of the finest treasures of all in the Coptic
churches. It dates probably from the sixteenth or
late fifteenth century 1 .
1 The trouble it cost to get the photograph of this gospel-case
taken will not be soon forgotten. A letter from the patriarch was
not easy to get : a photographer was hard to find : and the priest
almost impossible to catch except at impossible times, late Saturday
evening and early Sunday morning. But having with untold exertion
brought the priest, the photographer, and the letter face to face
at the church door, only two or three days before my departure
from Cairo, I nearly found all my labour in vain. The priest read
the letter bidding him show me all honour, and allow me to draw
in the church : but said the letter only referred to the walls not to
was lost labour and threats wasted
the vessels or ornaments 1 Logic
breath : even bakshish seemed powerless. He seemed really afraid
that the book would be stolen ; and seeing this, I promised, on the
word of an Englishman, not to touch it, and only to require it outside
the church five minutes, adding, '
I am tired of : asking now
answer me once for all speech single and speech straightforward
will you bring out the book or will you not?' In a moment he
relented, locked the dair door, and laid the book on the bench.
I was in alarm lest he should snatch it away before the photo-
grapher could finish ;
but a magic change had passed on his mood ;
and he afterwards very kindly allowed the stole and the sleeves to be
photographed also. All were unfortunately so badly taken, that only
the exceptional skill of the friends who copied them for me could
have produced anything like the beautiful drawings given in vol. ii.