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The Elegant Art of Dining: Bohemian San Francisco, Its ... - iMedia

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Birth <strong>of</strong> the French Restaurant<br />

French impression came strongly about this time, and the Poodle Dog, <strong>of</strong> Paris,<br />

had its prototype at Bush and Dupont streets. This was one <strong>of</strong> the earliest <strong>of</strong> the<br />

type known as “French Restaurants,” and numerous convivial parties <strong>of</strong> men<br />

and women found its private rooms convenient for rendezvous. Old Pierre <strong>of</strong><br />

later days, who was found dead out on the Colma road some two years after<br />

the fire <strong>of</strong> 1906, was a waiter at the Poodle Dog when it started, and by saving<br />

his tips and making good investments he was able to open a similar restaurant<br />

at Stockton and Market, which he called the Pup. <strong>The</strong> Pup was famous for its<br />

frogs’ legs a la poulette. In this venture Pierre had a partner, to whom he sold<br />

out a few years later and then he opened the Tortoni in O’Farrell street, which<br />

became one <strong>of</strong> the most famous <strong>of</strong> the pre-fire restaurants, its table d’hote<br />

dinners being considered the best in the city. When Claus Spreckels built the<br />

tall Spreckels building Pierre and his partner opened the Call restaurant in the<br />

top stories. With the fire both <strong>of</strong> the restaurants went out <strong>of</strong> existence, and the<br />

old proprietor <strong>of</strong> the Poodle Dog having died, Pierre and a partner named Pon<br />

bought the place, and for a year or so after the fire it was one <strong>of</strong> the best French<br />

restaurants in the city. After Pierre’s untimely death the restaurant was merged<br />

with Bergez and Frank’s, and is now in Bush street above Kearny.<br />

Much romance attached to Pierre, it being generally believed that he belonged<br />

to a wealthy French family, because <strong>of</strong> his education, his unfailing courtesy, his<br />

ready wit and his gentility. Pierre specialized in fish cooked with wine, and as<br />

a favor to his patrons he would go to the kitchen and prepare the dish with his<br />

own hands.<br />

In O’Farrell street the Delmonico was one <strong>of</strong> the most famous <strong>of</strong> the French<br />

restaurants until the fire. It was several stories high, and each story contained<br />

private rooms. Carriages drove directly into the building from the street and the<br />

occupants went by elevator to soundpro<strong>of</strong> rooms above, where they were served<br />

by discreet waiters.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Poodle Dog, the Pup, Delmonico’s, Jacques, Frank’s, the Mint, Bergez,<br />

Felix and Campi’s are the connecting links between the fire and the pioneer<br />

days. Some <strong>of</strong> them still carry the names and memories <strong>of</strong> the old days. All were<br />

noted for their good dinners and remarkably low prices.<br />

Shortly after the fire Blanco, formerly connected with the old Poodle Dog,<br />

14

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