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The Elegant Art of Dining: Bohemian San Francisco, Its ... - iMedia

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who came in the darkness <strong>of</strong> early morning to supply hucksters, small traders<br />

and a few thrifty people who knew <strong>of</strong> the cheapness, and in Columbo market<br />

they drove their great wagons and discharged their day’s gathering <strong>of</strong> vegetables<br />

<strong>of</strong> all kinds.<br />

But a few steps away is the great fruit market <strong>of</strong> the early morning and here tons<br />

<strong>of</strong> the finest fruits are distributed to the hundreds <strong>of</strong> wagons that crowd the<br />

street to such an extent that it takes all the ingenuity <strong>of</strong> experienced policemen<br />

to keep clearway for traffic. Threading their way in and out between the wheels<br />

and the heels <strong>of</strong> horses, were men and women, all looking for bargains in food.<br />

Amid a din almost deafening business was transacted with such celerity that<br />

in three hours the streets were cleared, fruits and vegetables sold and on their<br />

way to distant stands, and the tired policemen leaning against friendly walls,<br />

recuperating after the strenuous work <strong>of</strong> keeping order in chaos.<br />

It is when one goes to these places in the morning and sees the cheapness <strong>of</strong><br />

these foods that he can understand in a small way why it is that so many Italian<br />

restaurants can give such good meals for so little money. One wonders at a table<br />

d’hote dinner <strong>of</strong> six or seven courses for twenty-five cents, or even for half a<br />

dollar, and one accustomed to buying meats, fish, vegetables and fruits at the<br />

exorbitant prices charged at most <strong>of</strong> the markets and fruit and vegetable stands<br />

now sees why the thrifty foreigner can make and save money while the average<br />

American can hardly keep more than two jumps ahead <strong>of</strong> the sheriff.<br />

58

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