The Elegant Art of Dining: Bohemian San Francisco, Its ... - iMedia

At the Gianduja, as at all other Italian restaurants not much affected by
Chicken Snails a la Bordelaise Leon D’oro
Americans, you will find an atmosphere of unconventionality that is delightful
to the Bohemian. There is no irksome espionage on the part of other patrons,
all of whom
Put ten
are
pounds
there for
of Cut
the
snails a
purpose
spring in a covered chicken
of attending
barrel into pieces.
strictly
and keep
to
for
their
ten
own
days.
business,
Then and Place the put these affairs in a in tub of a pan other with containing a diners handful are hot of salt no olive consequence and oil, a and quarter season to of them. a with gallon There salt of and vinegar. is freedom pepper. Stir
of for expression twenty minutes and unconsciousness, until a foam rises, most then pleasing take out after and having wash experienced thoroughly until those
Turn
other
the
restaurants
chicken until
where
it
it
is
seems
thoroughly
to be the
browned,
business
and
of
add
all the
finely
rest
chopped
of the guests
green
the water runs clear.
to know just what you are eating and
peppers.
drinking. There is little of the obnoxious
posing
Put in
that
a large
one
pot
finds
a pint
in restaurants
of virgin olive
of the
oil,
downtown
four large onions
districts,
and
for
eight
while
cloves
Italians,
of
Let it cook awhile then add a finely chopped clove of garlic and a little sage.
in common
garlic,
with
all chopped
all other
fine,
Latins,
and
are
a small
natural
bunch
born
of
poseurs,
parsley,
they
chopped
are not
fine.
offensive
Put
in
in
it,
a
but
small
rather
glass
impress
of Marsala
you
wine,
with the
tomato
same
sauce
feeling
and
as
French
the antics
mushrooms
of a child.
and
Put the pot over the fire and when the onions are browned stir in some white
let simmer for ten minutes.
One of the little,
wine
out-of-the
or Marsala
way restaurants
and then put
of the
in the
Italian
snails.
quarter is the Leon
Before
d’Oro,
taking
at 1525
from
Grant
the pan
avenue,
add half
and
a
it
tablespoonful
is one of the
of
surprises
butter and
of that
serve
district.
on a hot
Cover and let simmer for thirty-five minutes.
Lazzarini, he with the big voice, presides
plate.
over the tiny kitchen in the rear of the
room
While
devoted
cooking
to
add
public
a pint
service
of meat
and
stock,
family
a
affairs.
little butter
Soft-voiced
and some
Rita,
anise
with
seed.
her
demure air and her When resemblance done put to in Evangeline, a soup tureen with and her serve. crossed apron, strings
and delicate features, takes your order, and soon comes the booming sound
from the neighborhood To remove of the the snails range, use that small announces wooden toothpicks.
to all patrons, as well as
to some who may be in the vicinity on the street, that your order is ready, and
then everybody knows what you are eating. As you sit, either in curtained alcove
or at the common table in the main room, little Andrea will visit you with his
cat. Both are institutions of the place and one is, prone to wonder how a cat
can have so much patience with a little boy. Andrea speaks Italian so fluently
and so rapidly that it gives you the impression of a quick rushing stream of pure
water, tumbling over the stones of a steep declivity. He is not yet old enough to
understand that it is not everybody who knows how to speak Italian, but that
makes not the slightest difference with him, for he talks without ever expecting
an answer.
Lazzarini understands the art and science of cooking, and some of the dishes
he prepares are so unusual that one goes again and again to partake of them:
Possibly his best dish is Chicken a la Leon D’oro.
Lazzarini also makes a specialty of snails, and they are well worth trying while
you are experimenting with the unusual things to eat.
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