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Paste Makes Waste Tagliarini Des Beaux Arts In an Italian grocery store we noticed a great variety of pastes in boxes arranged Cook along one the pound counter of and tagliarini began in counting boiling them. water The twenty-five proprietor minutes, noticed then us and, draw with a characteristic shrug of his off shoulders, the water. said: “That is but a few of them. To We the have tagliarini not room add a to handful show them of mushrooms all.” In response which to have our been inquiry sliced regarding and fried the number of kinds of paste made in by butter. Italians he said there were more than seventy-five. Ordinarily we think of one--spaghetti--or possibly two, including macaroni. Then add If three our knowledge chicken livers goes which a little have farther been we chopped think also small of tagliarini, and fried, which one sliced truffle, is the Italian one red equivalent pepper chopped of noodles, fine as and it is a made little Parmesan with eggs. cheese. In Make New a York brown we sauce were of much one-third impressed beef with broth the thickened stress they with laid melted on the butter serving and of spaghetti, flour and and one two-thirds restaurant tomato went so sauce, far as and to pour advertise this dinners over the given tagliarini. “under the spaghetti Sprinkle vine.” with It the appears Parmesan that cheese this is the and only serve paste very they hot from know a anything chafing dish. about. After one (By eats Oliver, tagliarini chef or of ravioli the Restaurant one feels like des paraphrasing Beaux Arts, Paris.) the darkey and saying, “go way spaghetti, yo done los’ yo tase.” Then comes tortelini which, like ravioli, combines paste with meat and spinach. These may be considered the most prominent of the pastes, the others being variants in the making and cutting, each serving a special purpose in cooking, some being for soups, others for sauces and others for dressing for meats. It is more than probable that the great variety comes from individual tastes in cutting or rolling. All Italian restaurants serve the paste as a releve rather than as an entree, which it usually follows, preceding the roast in the dinner. As a separate and distinct dish it can well be made to serve as a full meal, especially when tagliarini is prepared after this recipe. In San Francisco one finds both the imported and the domestic paste, and frequently one hears the assertion that the imported is the better. This idea is born of the thought that all things from Europe are better than the same made in America. In fact the paste that comes from Italy is neither so good in taste, nor is it so clean in the making. We have visited a number of paste factories in San Francisco and have found them all scrupulously clean, with the best of materials in the composition of the pastes. One often wonders how the pastes came to be so many and how they received their names. Names of some of them are accidents, as is illustrated by macaroni. 82
According to an Italian friend who vouches for the fact, it received its name from an expression of pleasure. “Macari” means “fine, excellent,” and the superlative is “macaroni.” A famous Italian gourmet constantly desired new dishes to please his taste, and one day his chef carried to him something that was unusual. The gourmet tasted it, cried out “macari!” Tasted again, threw out his arms in delight and cried “macaroni!” “What is the name of this wonderful dish?” “You have named it. It is macaroni.” 83
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The Elegant Art Of Dining Bohemian
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Amid Bright Lights 48 Around Little
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It is hoped that when you read what
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But the stepping across the street
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the young woman mentioned you are a
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Early Italian Impression Almost coi
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Christian Good, at Washington and K
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opened a place in O’Farrell stree
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At the Cliff House Three times dest
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customers were unaffected and natur
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could get German cooking, but it wa
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of how we saw this done one night i
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On the Barbary Coast Much has been
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The City That Was Passes Times chan
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throngs gathered nightly to dance a
Page 31 and 32: wonder if you are dreaming, too, Of
Page 33 and 34: dimensions are greatly magnified ow
Page 35 and 36: Francisco can one find game cooked
Page 37 and 38: and the flagons, stems and plaques
Page 39 and 40: In the Heart of Italy Risotto Fritt
Page 41 and 42: A Breath of the Orient San Francisc
Page 43 and 44: Artistic Japan We wish it were in o
Page 45 and 46: Proprietor and all his household ac
Page 47 and 48: At the Hotel St. Francis Sole Celer
Page 49 and 50: Around Little Italy San Francisco h
Page 51 and 52: as active as the goats for the side
Page 53 and 54: But do not think you have exhausted
Page 55 and 56: to merit lay chiefly in the fact th
Page 57 and 58: possessed, and in return came bount
Page 59 and 60: Fish in Their Variety Probably the
Page 61 and 62: The California oyster proper, is ve
Page 63 and 64: King of Shell Fish Gobey’s Crab S
Page 65 and 66: Clams and Abalone’s Mussels Clam
Page 67 and 68: First we went through the market fr
Page 69 and 70: About Dining Table d’hote is the
Page 71 and 72: dinners, unless you confine yoursel
Page 73 and 74: where, over a bottle of Krug, we ta
Page 75 and 76: form of waste. Waste consequent upo
Page 77 and 78: Told in a Whisper “Surely the old
Page 79 and 80: Remember that to the people of the
Page 81: Out of Nothing Omelet a la Peruquie
Page 85 and 86: country you might do as we did on o
Page 87 and 88: is not in the higher class of resta
Page 89 and 90: Appendix How to Serve Wines A few h
Page 91 and 92: Sauterne: Is a white Bordeaux, a st
Page 93 and 94: Eggs with Wine Lamb Peaches Scallop
Page 95: Text sourced from www.gutenberg.org
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