The Elegant Art of Dining: Bohemian San Francisco, Its ... - iMedia

Where Fish Abound
According to David Starr Jordan, acknowledged world authority on fish, there
is greater variety of fish in Monterey Bay than anywhere else in the world.
Monterey Bay is one of San Francisco’s sources of supply consequently we have
a greater variety of fish in our markets than are to be found anywhere else. In
the markets are fish from all parts of the Pacific Ocean, from the Tropics to far
north in the Arctics, while denizens of the waters all the way, between add to the
variety.
The essential element of goodness in fish is freshness, and it is always fresh in
San Francisco markets, and also in the restaurants. Of all varieties two rank
first in the estimation of gourmets, but, of course, that is purely a matter of
individual taste. According to the above-mentioned authority, “the finest fish
that swims is the sand-dab.” Some gourmets, however, will take issue with him
on this and say the pompano is better. Others will prefer the mountain trout. Be
that as it may they all are good, with many others following close in choice.
Fine striped bass from the ocean, or black bass from the fresh water takes high
place in preference. Then there is sole, both in the fillet and Rex, as prepared
at Jule’s under the Monadnock building. Tom cod, rock cod, fresh mackerel
and fresh cod, white bait and boned smelt all are excellent fish, but were we to
attempt to tell of all the fish to be found here we would have to reproduce a
piscatorial directory. There are two good methods of acquiring knowledge of the
fish of San Francisco. Go to the wharves and see them come and and go to the
wholesale markets down in Clay street, below Montgomery. You will then begin
to realize that we certainly do have a variety of good fish.
Now for a little Bohemianism of a different sort: Recently there came to San
Francisco, with his wife, an actor whose name used to be almost a household
word among theater-goers, and when we say “the villain still pursued her,”
all you old timers will know whom we mean. When he was here in the years
long gone by it was his custom to go to the old California market, select what
he desired to eat, then take it to the restaurant and have it cooked, and the
old atmosphere came back to him on his recent arrival and he revived the old
custom.
“Meet us at the California market,” was the telephone message that came to us,
and we were there, for we knew that something good was in store for us.
66