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gather such numbers as congregate at either the Heidelberg or the Hof Brau, but one can get the best of German cooking here and splendid service, and for a quiet little “Dutch supper” we know of no place that will accommodate you better than the Rathskeller. On special occasions, when some German society or club is giving a dance or holding a meeting at the German House, the Rathskeller is the most typical German place in San Francisco, and if you go at such a time you will get all the “atmosphere” you will desire, as well as the best the market affords in the way of good viands. 38
In the Heart of Italy Risotto Fritto ala Misto Milanaise What a relief it is sometimes to have a good waiter say: “You do not know what you “Onions want? “Lamb chop Will chops fine--marrow you and let me brains bring and breaded--sweetbreads--escallop you little the butter--rice--saffron--chicken best there is in the house?” of veal--fresh Sometimes, broth--wen you mushrooms--Italian know, you cook really add squash do fresh not butter when know in and what season--asparagus Parmesan you want, cheese and or usually seasoned.” cauliflower-- when that fried is the in case you are not fresh very butter--dipped hungry. That is in always beaten a good eggs--lime time to jus.” What was embodied in the words “wen cook” was the essential try of new the things. recipe and It is “Fritto also possible Misto” means that you fried do here mixture, not know is the and what way the we you recipe got want it: as because we finally you elucidated do not know it is how to order. In either instance our as advice follows: is, if the waiter gets confidential and offers his assistance you will Chop certainly one large miss onion something fine. if you do not accept his Take a lamb chop, a piece of calf good brain, offices. one sweetbread, a slice of veal, a fresh Cut a beef marrow into small dice and stir it with the chopped onion. mushroom, sliced Italian squash, a piece of asparagus or of cauliflower and dip This Put was a these small the into case piece with a batter of butter us, made one in day a of frying an when egg pan we well were and beaten into over this with at 1549 put a little the Stockton flour. onion street, and near Washington Square, marrow at the and Gianduja. fry to a The delicate proper brown. pronunciation of this is as if Sprinkle it were spelled these with Zhan-du-ya. a little lime This juice is one and of fry the to good a delicate Italian brown restaurants in butter, of the Latin Now quarter. add one At scant the cup Gianduja adding of rice, you salt stirring get and the pepper constantly, two prime to taste. and essentials into this to put a good a pinch meal-- of good cooking and excellent saffron service. that It has matters been not bruised. whether you take their thirtyfive When cent the luncheon rice takes or order on a brown a most color elaborate add, meal, slowly, you chicken will find broth that as the needed, service is just what it ought to until be. We the asked rice is Brenti thoroughly what he cooked. considered his most famous dish, and like all other proprietors, he shrugged his shoulders and said, with Then add a lump of fresh hands butter emphasizing about the size his of words: a walnut, and sprinkle liberally with grated Parmesan cheese, seasoning to taste with pepper and salt. “We have so many fine dishes.” This is to be served with chicken or veal. “Of course we know that, but what do you consider the very best?” “There is no one the ‘very best’. I could give you two.” “Let it be two, then,” was our immediate rejoinder, and here is what he gave us as the best recipes of the Gianduja. First, let us give you an idea of the difficulty under which we secured these recipes by printing them just as he wrote them down for us, and then we shall elaborate a little and show the result of skillful questioning. This is the way he wrote the recipe for Risotto Milanaise. The second recipe was for Fritto Misto, and he wrote it as follows. 39
Page 1 and 2: The Elegant Art Of Dining Bohemian
Page 3 and 4: Amid Bright Lights 48 Around Little
Page 5 and 6: It is hoped that when you read what
Page 7 and 8: But the stepping across the street
Page 9 and 10: the young woman mentioned you are a
Page 11 and 12: Early Italian Impression Almost coi
Page 13 and 14: Christian Good, at Washington and K
Page 15 and 16: opened a place in O’Farrell stree
Page 17 and 18: At the Cliff House Three times dest
Page 19 and 20: customers were unaffected and natur
Page 21 and 22: could get German cooking, but it wa
Page 23 and 24: of how we saw this done one night i
Page 25 and 26: On the Barbary Coast Much has been
Page 27 and 28: The City That Was Passes Times chan
Page 29 and 30: throngs gathered nightly to dance a
Page 31 and 32: wonder if you are dreaming, too, Of
Page 33 and 34: dimensions are greatly magnified ow
Page 35 and 36: Francisco can one find game cooked
Page 37: and the flagons, stems and plaques
Page 41 and 42: A Breath of the Orient San Francisc
Page 43 and 44: Artistic Japan We wish it were in o
Page 45 and 46: Proprietor and all his household ac
Page 47 and 48: At the Hotel St. Francis Sole Celer
Page 49 and 50: Around Little Italy San Francisco h
Page 51 and 52: as active as the goats for the side
Page 53 and 54: But do not think you have exhausted
Page 55 and 56: to merit lay chiefly in the fact th
Page 57 and 58: possessed, and in return came bount
Page 59 and 60: Fish in Their Variety Probably the
Page 61 and 62: The California oyster proper, is ve
Page 63 and 64: King of Shell Fish Gobey’s Crab S
Page 65 and 66: Clams and Abalone’s Mussels Clam
Page 67 and 68: First we went through the market fr
Page 69 and 70: About Dining Table d’hote is the
Page 71 and 72: dinners, unless you confine yoursel
Page 73 and 74: where, over a bottle of Krug, we ta
Page 75 and 76: form of waste. Waste consequent upo
Page 77 and 78: Told in a Whisper “Surely the old
Page 79 and 80: Remember that to the people of the
Page 81 and 82: Out of Nothing Omelet a la Peruquie
Page 83 and 84: According to an Italian friend who
Page 85 and 86: country you might do as we did on o
Page 87 and 88: is not in the higher class of resta
Page 89 and 90:
Appendix How to Serve Wines A few h
Page 91 and 92:
Sauterne: Is a white Bordeaux, a st
Page 93 and 94:
Eggs with Wine Lamb Peaches Scallop
Page 95:
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