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The Elegant Art of Dining: Bohemian San Francisco, Its ... - iMedia

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s<strong>of</strong>t dialect <strong>of</strong> their native communities, and if you are so unfortunate as not to<br />

be able to understand them, then it is you who are the loser.<br />

Do you wish to know something about conditions in Mexico? Would you like<br />

to learn what the Mexicans themselves really think about affairs down in that<br />

disturbed republic? Go along Broadway west <strong>of</strong> Grant avenue, and then around<br />

the corner on Stockton, and you will see strange signs, and perhaps you will not<br />

know that “Fonda” means restaurant, or that “Tienda,” means a store. But these<br />

are the signs you will see, and when you go inside you will hear nothing but the<br />

gentle Spanish <strong>of</strong> the Mexican, so toned down and so changed that some <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Castilians pr<strong>of</strong>ess to be unable to understand it.<br />

Here you will find all the articles <strong>of</strong> household use that are to be found in the<br />

heart <strong>of</strong> Mexico, and that have been used for hundreds <strong>of</strong> years despite the<br />

progress <strong>of</strong> civilization in other countries. You will find all the strange foods and<br />

all the inconsequentials that go to make the sum <strong>of</strong> Mexican happiness, and if<br />

you can get sufficiently close in acquaintance you will find that not only will<br />

they talk freely to you, but they will tell you things about Mexico that not even<br />

the heads <strong>of</strong> the departments in Washington are aware <strong>of</strong>.<br />

Perhaps you would like to know something about the bourgeoise French, those<br />

who have come from the peasant district <strong>of</strong> the mother country. Go a little<br />

further up Broadway and you will begin to see the signs changing from Spanish<br />

to French, and if you can understand them you will know that here you will be<br />

given a dinner for twenty-five cents on week days and for thirty-five cents on<br />

Sundays. <strong>The</strong> difference is brought about by the difference between the price <strong>of</strong><br />

cheap beef or mutton and the dearer chicken.<br />

Up in the second story on a large building you may see a sign that tells you<br />

meals will be served and rooms provided. One <strong>of</strong> these is the rendezvous <strong>of</strong><br />

Anarchists, who gather each evening and discuss the affairs <strong>of</strong> the world, and<br />

how to regulate them. But they are harmless Anarchists in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Francisco</strong>, for<br />

here they have no wrongs to redress, so they sit and drink their forbidden<br />

absinthe, and dream their dreams <strong>of</strong> fire and sword, while they talk in whispers<br />

<strong>of</strong> what they are going to do to the crowned heads <strong>of</strong> Europe. It is their dream<br />

and we have no quarrel with it or them.<br />

But for real interest one must get back to the slope <strong>of</strong> Telegraph Hill; to the<br />

streets running up from Columbus avenue, until they are so steep that only<br />

goats and babies can play on them with safety. At least we suppose the babies are<br />

50

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