Download - Fly Thomas Cook

words: claire boobbyer. photography: robin thom
AS THE LAST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD
to live off the ration book, Cuba has suffered from
a bit of a bad rep when it comes to food. Even
vegetables were scarce just 15 years ago, following
the collapse of the Soviet Union and the island’s economic
dire straits. But thanks to recent reforms and
its new organic farming methods, the gastro
revolution is now well underway.
This is mainly thanks to the resurgence of
pop-up supper clubs, known locally as paladares.
These private dining rooms have existed in Cuba
since the mid-90s, but were heavily restricted
– and, in some areas, banned. Today’s fresh
crop is more stylish and adventurous with its
offerings, and are worth giving your all-inclusive
hotel a night off to discover some local flavour.
You’ll find the best in the capital, Havana. For example,
Le Chansonnier (Calle J no. 257 e/ Línea and Calle 15,
Vedado, +53 7 8321576), entrepreneur Héctor Higuera Martínez’
shabby chic dining space, which features the work of Cuban avantgarde
artists, is the setting for impressive dishes like duck in an
orange reduction. Meanwhile, in Miramar, Calle Diez (Calle 10 no.
314 e/ 5ta Avenida and 3ra, +53 7 209 6702), a sleek monochrome
dining room by Liseth Rodríguez Martínez, is worth the visit for her
Canadian steak in pepper sauce alone. Also, Michel Miglis at
Casa Miglis (main picture, Lealtad no.120 e/ Animas and
Lagunas, +53 7 8641486) has created a beautiful
oasis in the run-down Centro region. His Swedish-
Cuban fusion fish dishes (inset) and funky bar
makes this one of Havana’s hippest haunts.
Even in the eastern cities of Holguín and
Santiago – where the paladares scene has
been in the doldrums – the movement’s going
strong. Holguín’s San José (Agramonte no.
188 e/ Maceo and Libertad, +53 24 424 877),
touted to be the city’s best, is resurrecting the
trend with plates of succulent roast lamb and
mouth-watering fish bathed in butter. A few hours south in
Santiago de Cuba is El Madrileño (Calle 8 no.105 e/ 3 and 5,
Vista Alegre, +53 22 644138) where flamed, fat prawns served in
whiskey sauce can be enjoyed on a plant-draped patio. Your next
Come Dine With Me party is about to get a little hotter.
Join the Cuban
revolution…
… the gastronomic one, that is. Introducing
the new wave of pop-up supper clubs taking
the island by storm
FOOD
departures
MAY.JUN.JUL 35