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74 THOMAS COOK TRAVEL
THIS WAS ONE OF THOSE RARE OCCASIONS
where taking the wrong turn and getting lost
actually worked in our favour. We were supposed
to be heading to Vilamoura – not only the Algarve’s
main tourist hub, but one of the largest single tourist complexes
in Europe – and we missed our exit and ended up driving
through the most vibrant orange grove, which stretched as far
as the eye could see, and ended up in the village of Alvor.
Stepping out of the car to grab some fresh air, my nose
picked up the unmistakable aroma of cooking on a charcoal
grill. I followed the smell a hundred metres or so up a hill and
discovered fresh dourada (that’s seabream to you and me) being
grilled inside a restaurant that had very little fuss, but lots and lots
of locals eating inside. The garnish for the fish was just a simple
salad of tomatoes, onions and delicious smoky peppers. But once
it was dressed with grassy olive oil and some vinegar, it seemed
like the most perfect lunch possible – far more satisfying than
the bacon sandwich I had been nibbling on at Gatwick Airport a
mere three hours earlier.
PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT: CLAMS FOR
LUNCH AT THE ESTAMINÉ RESTAURANT,
ILHA DESERTA; THIS PAGE: A VIEW OF
THE PENECO BEACH IN ALBUFEIRA
Alvor reassuringly offers everything that the Algarve
has gained a reputation for: golf courses, pubs serving
a hearty full English, a Chinese restaurant and, of course,
fish ‘n’ chips. But this gem of a restaurant showed me that
you simply can’t ignore what this little part of Portugal has
to offer in terms of food. It might be hard pushed to give
super foodie destinations like Tuscany and Lyon a run
for their money, but pull back the covers a little and what
emerges is a heritage of traditional cookery, incredible
produce and a real sense of pride.
It’s a pride that’s justified: the Algarve not only boasts
four of the 12 one-Michelin-star rated establishments
across Portugal, but it’s also home to two restaurants that
have been given the coveted star twice. Albufeira’s Vila
Joya (Praia da Galé, +351 289 591 795, vilajoya.com)
is one of them, and for my money is where to head for a
unique gastronomic experience. Named after the owner’s
daughter, it started out as a simple guest house before
its restaurant gained acclaim by being voted 45th in San