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<strong>in</strong>gredient secret<br />

Kumquats by er<strong>in</strong> thursby<br />

Local yards are <strong>current</strong>ly burst<strong>in</strong>g with a bounty of kumquats. Kumquats are mostly <strong>in</strong> season<br />

from late fall to mid-w<strong>in</strong>ter, that’s when you’ll fi nd <strong>the</strong> fresh stuff at <strong>the</strong> store.<br />

If you’re not familiar with kumquats, <strong>the</strong>y are a fruit a little larger than a quail’s egg. Most are<br />

orange <strong>in</strong> color, with a sweet, edible r<strong>in</strong>d and a surpris<strong>in</strong>gly tart <strong>in</strong>side. The r<strong>in</strong>d is often used as an<br />

edible garnish because it’s sweet and bright colored. Their fl owers are white and <strong>the</strong>ir branches are<br />

sometimes thorny, with dark green, sh<strong>in</strong>y leaves.<br />

{ }<br />

“My mom has a kumquat bush, and this year it is out of control! In<br />

Ch<strong>in</strong>ese, a Kumquat means ‘Golden Happ<strong>in</strong>ess.’ I have a huge<br />

bowl of <strong>the</strong>m on my d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g room table.”—Chef Dennis Chan<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Kumquat Growers of Florida: “The kumquat tastes best if it is gently rolled<br />

between <strong>the</strong> fi ngers before be<strong>in</strong>g eaten, as this releases <strong>the</strong> essential oils <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> r<strong>in</strong>d. Eat kumquats<br />

as you would eat grapes (with <strong>the</strong> peel).”<br />

Despite <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>y’re ripe <strong>in</strong> many of our area yards, it’s not <strong>the</strong> season to fi nd <strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> market, so if you or your neighbors don’t have a tree, you can pick up dried or candied kumquats<br />

at an oriental market. You might fi nd kumquat marmalades or jellies as well. All of <strong>the</strong>se forms are<br />

excellent to use <strong>in</strong> savory duck dishes or as part of stuffi ng for chicken or turkey. You can also grill<br />

fresh kumquats on kabob along with savory meats, veggies, or o<strong>the</strong>r fruits. Although this little fruit is<br />

tasty right off <strong>the</strong> tree, <strong>the</strong>re are quite a number of ways to use kumquats <strong>in</strong> dr<strong>in</strong>k and food recipes.<br />

Basically, wherever citrus fruit is used <strong>in</strong> a recipe, you can probably replace it with kumquat (for<br />

recipes, see <strong>the</strong> website fooddownunder.<strong>com</strong> and search for kumquats).<br />

Kumquats orig<strong>in</strong>ally <strong>com</strong>e from Asia. They grow well <strong>in</strong> Florida and California and because <strong>the</strong>y<br />

are slow grow<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong>re’s no danger of <strong>the</strong>m outgrow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir space quickly. They are characterized<br />

32 MAY 2008 | eu jacksonville monthly | dish<br />

as large evergreen shrubs or small trees. Most produce between 80 and 100 fruit every year.<br />

They are a perfect citrus plant for North Florida because <strong>the</strong>y are hardier than oranges, and<br />

can withstand a hard freeze. They do love mild and warm wea<strong>the</strong>r though, and our low temperatures<br />

never get anywhere close to <strong>the</strong>ir m<strong>in</strong>imum temperature tolerance of about 14°F.<br />

It’s easy to cross kumquats with o<strong>the</strong>r citrus fruits, so you’ll fi nd orangequats, limequats,<br />

lemonquats and calamond<strong>in</strong> (an ancient cross between tanger<strong>in</strong>e and kumquats). Small, ripe<br />

calamond<strong>in</strong>s and kumquats can be frozen and used as ice cubes <strong>in</strong> teas and adult beverages.<br />

Local Chef Dennis Chan of Blue Bamboo has made a crisp and outstand<strong>in</strong>g mart<strong>in</strong>i from<br />

kumquats called <strong>the</strong> Kumquat Jade Mart<strong>in</strong>i:<br />

{{<br />

Kumquat Jade Mart<strong>in</strong>i<br />

3 kumkuats, muddled<br />

1 oz vodka<br />

½ oz blue curacao<br />

½ oz triple sec<br />

splash orange juice<br />

chilled mart<strong>in</strong>i glass<br />

Muddle kumquats, add ice, add vodka of choice, Curacao, triple<br />

sec, and orange juice. Shake. Stra<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>to chilled mart<strong>in</strong>i glass.<br />

Garnish with twist of kumquat.<br />

photo by l<strong>in</strong>da blakely

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