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Vaata kogu bukletti (.pdf) - Maris Lindoja Disain

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ed in signs of things, but rather the experience<br />

of a more authentic thing beyond it’s sign. Ironically<br />

this is the most problematic aspect of the<br />

tourist industry because it invariably means doing<br />

the things that the society that the tourist<br />

comes from in some way inhibits. I mean here,<br />

for example, the culture of drinking and sex,<br />

the tourism of the ‘body experience’. Tallinn is<br />

now on the list of stag and hen night party destinations<br />

by UK companies. 2 This means that<br />

groups of men or women come to the city for<br />

their rite of passage or carnival experience of<br />

‘debauchery’ before settling down to normal<br />

life. Such sex tourism is now a central part of<br />

28<br />

the industry, hotels provide TV pornography,<br />

and bars and taxis provide access to prostitutes<br />

and brothels. Yet these activities too are<br />

subject to the wish for authenticity: the experience<br />

of real sex, real eroticism and real excess.<br />

The authentic experience is here too governed<br />

by signs, by the semiotics of illicitness. For<br />

those who wish to just drink there is still a semiotic<br />

choice to be made between the places<br />

that resemble their home culture (McDonalds<br />

and Coca-Cola are there to make Americans<br />

feel at home all over the world) or embrace<br />

some exotic otherness. Here too the tourist is<br />

caught up in a sign system, the cocktail bar,<br />

the hotel lounge and the ‘pub’ offer distinct<br />

types of semiotic fantasies of sophistication,<br />

aloofness or cosiness. Yet none of these is really<br />

more authentic than the other. Similarly<br />

the nightclubs for dancing offer different experiences,<br />

of types of music, age group or<br />

aesthetics of dance, even if they are all in<br />

some way similar in that they offer a highly focussed<br />

space for meeting the opposite sex.<br />

These semiotic differences are evident in, for<br />

example the night club attached to the Viru hotel,<br />

full of Estonians on a Saturday night drinking<br />

and dancing to favourite old popular tunes,<br />

while in Parlament younger Estonians dance to<br />

more modern contemporary music, while Club<br />

Privé offers a more minimal and sophisticated<br />

music for dancing as well as the space for encountering<br />

visiting tourists who can afford the<br />

higher entrance fee. Then the strip clubs and<br />

erotic dance floors are also subject to semiotic<br />

scrutiny, read this report published on the web<br />

about Tallinn prostitutes:<br />

… ask a taxi driver to take you to a brothel.<br />

… Normally the driver will suggest different<br />

places – normally the following: Hotel Max -<br />

Kadaka - Morgan Club. Most of the drivers suggest<br />

that they wait for you while you visit a<br />

girl. In the meantime they take a cup of coffee<br />

in the bar, and it costs nothing extra to have<br />

them wait for you – but ask to be sure of that.<br />

The prices are 900 EEK for 1 hour and 600 for<br />

half an hour. I had a girl in Kadaka a couple<br />

of years ago, and she was fine. But later I<br />

heard about a shooting accident (mafia related)<br />

there so I don’t go there anymore. But Hotel<br />

Max and Morgan Club are ok, and they<br />

seem to be safe.<br />

For an extra pay you can have sauna and bubble<br />

bath in Morgan Club, and the place is nice<br />

and pretty with a small bar where you meet<br />

the girls – normally 4–5 to choose among,<br />

some Russian some Estonian, most of them<br />

reasonably pretty.<br />

There is no entrance fee and the drinks are<br />

quite cheap (20 EEK or so for a beer). But you<br />

have to pay 50 EEK for a strip-tease, which is<br />

normally absolutely boring.<br />

Last time I was there I had a girl named Ilona,<br />

Russian but speaking a little English. She was<br />

really pretty and kind.<br />

This type of online web account is typical of<br />

the conversation that might be heard in a bar,<br />

where men – and sometimes women – speak<br />

of their experiences in the same way other historically<br />

minded tourists evaluate restaurants,<br />

museums and hotels.<br />

Perhaps the final irony, if not tragedy, about all<br />

this, is that in Tallinn the medieval world to<br />

which it once belonged was fraught with the<br />

same dichotomies. In a striking way I found<br />

an analogy in a text by Michel Foucault about<br />

the medieval ‘Battle for Chastity’ where the<br />

‘spirit of fornication’ is something to be overcome.<br />

3 Escaping the medieval work is something<br />

that has not yet been achieved.<br />

1 See the discussion of this idea in Dean<br />

MacCannell’s classic study, The Tourist (New York:<br />

Schocken, 1976).<br />

2 See for example:<br />

http://www.bigweekends.com/tallinn-stag.htm<br />

3 Michel Foucault, ‘The Battle for Chastity’,<br />

Ethics (Penguin, 1997).<br />

29

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