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Industry :: p25<br />

The current Cape Union Mart<br />

chairman and CEO explain why<br />

the retailer, founded 80 years ago<br />

as a single store, became such a<br />

successful retail chain and local<br />

manufacturer<br />

If you treat people like they<br />

ought to be, they become<br />

what they ought to be. If<br />

you treat them like they<br />

are, they stay as they are.<br />

• look at stores — where a store is closing<br />

down, open a new store and negotiate good<br />

rentals;<br />

• put the right structures in place — this is the<br />

time to fix and upgrade your systems<br />

“So, a recession is actually a very positive<br />

time for us, because we open a lot of stores,<br />

employ some absolutely brilliant people — we<br />

have better people now than I recall having in<br />

any other time in any category — and we’ve<br />

got better systems in place than ever before.”<br />

That is why they outperform their competitive<br />

peers, he says: even though they are a<br />

private company, they can compare their performance<br />

to the listed companies and see that<br />

they are ahead in turnover and profit growth.<br />

“In a recession people never stop buying, but<br />

they want value,” says Krawitz. “The heart of<br />

Cape Union Mart, Poetry and Old Khaki, is Value<br />

with a capital V. The garment you buy today<br />

must look good over the next five years. Our<br />

garments are not going to self-destruct, will<br />

not lose waterproof ability, will not curl up,<br />

and the seams will not come adrift. “<br />

Optimism in diversity<br />

“South Africans talk ourselves into a depression,”<br />

he adds. “This country is too good to<br />

fail, no matter what government we have in<br />

power. One of the greatest strengths of South<br />

Africa is our diversity.”<br />

The same applies to the company, where a<br />

diverse group of people are employed. “That<br />

diversity has enabled us to handle tough times<br />

pretty well by having some damn good arguments,”<br />

says Krawitz, who has a sign that proclaims:<br />

If two people around the table agree,<br />

one of them is unnecessary. He encourages<br />

constructive disagreements because the dialogues<br />

lead to better conclusions.<br />

He cites the PAEI Method, developed by prof<br />

Ichak Adizes of California, as an example of<br />

the four archetypal types of characters needed<br />

for a business to function at its best:<br />

P = the producer, the guy that gets things done<br />

on time. “He’s the engine driver, but like the<br />

driver of a train you’ve got to point him in the<br />

Family business with a difference<br />

PhiliP Krawitz’ founded Cape Union Mart in 1933 and was succeeded by his son,<br />

arthur, in the late 1940’s. when he died of a heart attack in 1970, his son Philip had no<br />

choice but to leave university to run the family business. today, Cape Union Mart is still a<br />

true family business — but, with a twist.<br />

they follow the recommendations of a harvard Business School Programme for family<br />

businesses they attended: no family member may be appointed unless they first gained<br />

work experience elsewhere, and have the skills advertised – and they may only apply once.<br />

therefore, when the Krawitz daughters became involved in the business, they brought the<br />

necessary experience, qualifications and skills to add value to the business.<br />

the eldest, Martine Vogelman, has a B.Bus.Sci degree from the University of Cape town<br />

and managed portfolios at investec Private Bank, before joining the family business to help<br />

with strategic planning. She is also involved with range selection. “we gave her the family<br />

portfolio to administer and she got pretty good returns,” says Krawitz.<br />

lauren Gez, the middle daughter, studied at the Fashion institute of technology in New<br />

York and then went to work for top end brands like Kenneth Cole and J-Crew. after returning<br />

to South africa she told her father “it’s a disgrace that you don’t have any clothes for<br />

women and you have three daughters”— and proceeded to style ladies garments for Cape<br />

Union Mart.<br />

the youngest, amanda herson, is a high achiever: at school she was head girl, the first<br />

white junior mayor of Cape town after democracy, got seven distinctions in matric and<br />

graduated cum laude as best student of her year in B. Sci Econ at the wharton School,<br />

an ivy league college in Pennsylvania. after working for the Boston Consulting Group and<br />

Victoria Secret, she completed her MBa at harvard and joined highland Capital Partners in<br />

the US before being invited by her father to visit Cape town during the 2010 FiFa world<br />

Cup tournament.<br />

the hersons — her husband Marc, who she met at harvard, is a fellow South african —<br />

predictably became homesick and when the person who ran the new business division at<br />

Cape Union Mart left, she applied and got the job. after the birth of her two sons she took<br />

on a new challenge, and now heads up their online business.<br />

the next generation — the grandchildren — inspired the kids’ range, which has been tremendously<br />

successful, says Krawitz.<br />

right direction to get him to the right station.”<br />

A = the accountant, who wants everything<br />

done precisely and correctly.<br />

E = the entrepreneur. “He is your dreamer, full<br />

of ideas, who lights fires all over the place.”<br />

I = the integrator, or a human resources type<br />

of person “who’ll wait for everybody else to<br />

put up their hands before they vote.”<br />

Unless you can get those four types of people<br />

into a similar space and create conflict,<br />

your company will be dead, says Krawitz. The<br />

leader’s role is to build a team.<br />

“After 43 years I learnt something very important:<br />

the smartest thing in business is to<br />

realise you are not the smartest guy in the<br />

realm. Rather employ people who are much<br />

smarter than you and ensure that they play<br />

nicely together.”<br />

At Cape Union Mart it is Labuschagne’s job<br />

is to make sure that “the brilliant people we<br />

employ play nicely together”.<br />

Local manufacturing<br />

Another strength is that they are one of the<br />

few retailers who started manufacturing locally<br />

by opening their own factory. And despite<br />

the job losses suffered by many other local<br />

manufacturers, they are proud that they never<br />

needed to retrench an employee.<br />

“Our factory has grown enormously and we<br />

turned out close to 450 000 garments in this<br />

financial year — high value, highly technical<br />

garments,” says Krawitz. “We are producing<br />

better garments than what you will find in any<br />

other factory in the world.”<br />

The greater flexibility and speed to market<br />

offered by their factory gives them a competitive<br />

edge. But, raw materials are a challenge,<br />

he admits and says “it is absolutely ridiculous<br />

that at this stage South Africa still has high<br />

import tax on textiles that are not available<br />

here.“ It’s essential that any fabric not produced<br />

locally should be imported duty free.<br />

“We have the ability to create quite a viable<br />

manufacturing market here,” adds<br />

To p26

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