download benjamin latham instruction manual

Mast caps: Originally of iron, these are supplied as metal castings
in the kit. But if you prefer to make your own, it is suggested
that you make them of brass strips or short lengths of
tubing, soldered together. You can also drill and file them out
of brass or aluminum flat stock. The caps must be drilled
through to accommodate bolts and links which support the
spreader lifts and also serve as pivots for the bails (supporting
half hoops) used for the stays (see figure 45). In addition, an
eyebolt must be fitted to the aft side of the main cap for the
topping lift crane. A lower crane pivot must also be made and
fitted. All of this construction must be well made. It is desirable
to solder all eyes in the bails for extra strength.
Fore mast: The foresail boom requires that a gooseneck be fitted
to the fore mast. This will allow the fore boom to clear
dories, the seine boat and any other main deck clutter (see figure
46). It can be made of paper strips, pins and eyebolts in a
manner similar to the peak halyard bands.
Main mast: This gets fitted with a wooden saddle. It is furnished
as a casting in the kit, but may be substituted with a
wooden piece of the modeler’s own fabrication, if desired.
6. Topmast Fittings
The hardware for topmasts is quite simple: one band at the
foremast head; two at the main. Brittania castings are provided
for these bands, but not all of the eyes on each band are needed.
Snip off all those that are not called for in the plans. These
may be glued down after the topmasts are in place.
Topmast Heels: These must be “fidded” and wedged into the
trestletrees very carefully. This is a good time to make a trial fit
and install the “gates” for the trestletrees at the same time (see
figure 47).
FIG. 46 – Fore Boom Goose Neck
Shackle and hook for
fore sail tack (hook
points to port)
Swivel pin with split
key on port side
FIG. 47 – Trestle Trees
FORE MAST
Split key
Ears on mast
bands for tightening
bolts, P &S
(TOP VIEW)
Swivel pin
Shackle
outside all
7. Stepping the Masts
Finish up the masts by adding any forgotten eyebolts and
hardware. Fit the spreaders and throat halyard cranes. Then
add the chafe collars to the lower masts (refer back to figure
44). Stain and paint these according to earlier directions. Next,
slide on the mast hoops and mast coats, both of which are supplied
as castings (see figure 48). The masts may now be
stepped into the mast holes and wedged tight with slivers of
wood which should be cut off at deck level. Add a touch of
contact cement around the wedges and slide the mast coats
down until they rest snugly on the deck. You may now proceed
with the standing rigging or go on to the other spars.
Rigging instructions begin in Stage G.
Topmast
heel “gate”
Cheek
Eyebolt, P & S,
for jumbo
halyard blocks
FIG. 48 – Mast Wedges & Coats
Wedges
driven
around
mast
Wedge
Wedges driven
Lead strips
For Model:
use castings
supplied or turn
out of hardwood
Mast hole
Canvas mast
coat (stitched
on aft end)
Wedges driven
below deck level
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