download benjamin latham instruction manual

10. Ironwork
Ironwork is somewhat more difficult to make for the gaffs and
booms than for the masts and bowsprit. The bands are smaller,
more complicated, and drilling a thin dowel for the eyebolts
and sheave holes is a tricky job at times (see figure 51 for
the different types of bands required for these spars).
Booms: The fore boom gooseneck has been illustrated in figure
46 and the jumbo boom gooseneck appears in figure 52. If
you wish to fake the ironwork with paper and wire, simplified
assembly methods are shown in figure 51.
Gaffs: The ironwork for the gaffs is not as demanding. Throat
halyard blocks and hardware have been shown in figure 44.
This should be a thoroughly enjoyable project for the modeler
who finds fine metalwork an interesting challenge, which it
should be. The fore peak halyard blocks are fixed to bands on
the gaff (see figure 53a). The main peak halyard blocks run on
wire bridles which are seated in shallow grooves in the gaff
(see figure 53b). These block bridles are discussed in the section
on standing rigging.
The ends of the gaffs are fitted with blocks for the topsail
sheets. The fore has two cheek blocks (important note: the fore
topsail sheets are double!). The main has a single block shackled
to a band. The main gaff also must have a band with an
eye-strap for the flag halyard (see figure 54).
Bowsprit: There is much ironwork to be fitted for this spar
which includes the bobstay irons and gammon irons (See figures
55 and 57). First, fit the wooden jackstays onto both sides
of the bowsprit along its upper outboard edges (see figure 56).
Drill them out for the jib stops (for locations see Rigging Plan
Sheet 2 and upper left corner of sheet 3. Near the end of the
bowsprit is a withe (four eyes) to which the outer bobstay, the
jibstay and the bowsprit guys are shackled (see figure 58). Just
inside of this withe is fitted a brace band (no eyes) which supports
the former by helping to distribute some of the compression
loads. The brace band may be faked with paper, but the
withe might be better made with metal. Or, you can use a brittania
metal casting provided for the purpose.
On the underside of the bowsprit, abaft the bands of the lifesize
Latham was a long plate for the inner bobstay. Passing
through that plate was a heavy metal staple which formed the
bobstay eye. The ends of this staple were headed over clinch
rings on the upper side of the bowsprit (see figure 58). On the
model, the metal plate can be simulated with heavy paper, but
the eye must be very secure. Form a small staple from a common
pin. Next, drill a hole in the bowsprit for it. Then drive
the pin up through the hole and bend the ends over neatly.
Outboard of the bands projects the pole of the bowsprit, from
which the balloon stay is shackled. This pole has a longitudinal
band running its whole length, above and below, and is recessed
into the wood. A strip of rag paper will represent that
fitting nicely. An eyebolt can be driven through the pole and
headed over underneath to accommodate the jibstay.
Seine boat & net booms: The ironwork for these is quite simple
and covered in detail on the seining gear Plan Sheet 4 of 4.
FIG. 52 – Jumbo Boom FIG. 53a – Peak Halyard Straps & Bridles FIG. 53b – Bridle for Main Peak Halyard Blocks
ACTUAL
FOR
MODEL
ACTUAL
(popular at turn of century)
Iron roller or saddle
Knot
Goose neck
FORWARD VIEW
Iron strap
(all fore gaffs and many or most main gaffs)
Splice
Make a fine
groove in gaff
for bridle
FOR
MODEL
FIG. 54 – Gaff Ends
Topsail sheet block
Wood cheek block,
port side
Cheek blocks,
port & starboard
Iron band
or
Double
topsail sheets
Flag
halyard
block
Peak outhaul
Peak outhaul
1. For larger vessels 2. Probally better for Latham
MAIN GAFF
FORE GAFF
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