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download benjamin latham instruction manual

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Grub (or Great) Beam: often painted white for visibility at<br />

night.<br />

Deck: could be light grey, although some vessels’ decks were<br />

painted Pea Green. Sometimes great circles were swept around<br />

the quarter bitts, at the grub beam, and abreast the foremast.<br />

The color used for the deck was then painted within the radii<br />

(see perspectives drawings on sheet 3 or 4––these are the dark<br />

areas shown on the deck around fiferails, windlass, and along<br />

the waterways).<br />

Waterways: Outside the previously mentioned circles, the waterway<br />

color was painted (this could be white to match the bulwarks,<br />

or a deep prussian blue, which was then quite popular).<br />

In painting the waterways, the caulking line between it and the<br />

deck plank was rigidly followed, even where planks were<br />

nibbed, giving a sawtooth effect along some stretches. Beyond<br />

the arcs of the circles, this did not matter.<br />

Ironwork: was generally black, but sometimes a benign soul<br />

would paint the hawse pipe linings and lips a bright red. The<br />

diaphragm pumps were similarly treated; sometimes they<br />

were a bright red all over; other times they would be black<br />

with only the insides of the bowls and spouts painted red.<br />

Anchors: may be painted black or left a red-lead color, but<br />

their stocks were tarred a glossy dark brown when the tar was<br />

fresh. The anchor chain sat in a rusty heap in the chain box and<br />

may be “antiqued” accordingly on the model.<br />

Windlass Barrel: often had its ironwork blacked. The barrel<br />

inside the riding bitts was oiled or black-varnished, making it<br />

very dark and somewhat glossy. The windlass heads, however,<br />

were often painted white, ironwork and all. In later years,<br />

many windlass barrels were completely painted, usually white.<br />

Hub, Rim & Spokes of Stoddart Steering Wheel: could be<br />

painted grey or white, the mahogany spokes would have been<br />

oiled and their brass caps polished bright.<br />

Bowsprit: may be black or white inboard, and black outboard,<br />

with the iron bands black and the pole white. All gaffs and<br />

booms should be salmon-buff with white tips.<br />

Masts: The lower masts were painted white from the deck to<br />

the boom saddle or the gooseneck; the mastheads were often<br />

white, but some vessels, including Latham, had buff mastheads<br />

with black ironwork. The tips of the mastheads, which protruded<br />

above the caps, were often white-leaded. The topmasts at the<br />

doublings were the color of the lower mast heads; their poles<br />

were generally white. All blocks, regardless of location, would<br />

have been painted the same color as the spars: white or buff.<br />

The hoists of both lower masts and topmasts, over which the<br />

gaffs and mast hoops traveled, were “slushed” or coated with a<br />

mixture of tallow and grease. This allowed gaffs and hoops to<br />

slide up and down with a minimum of friction. The color was a<br />

greyish-umber which darkened when its greasy substance<br />

caught dirt and grime.<br />

Seine Boat: was usually painted white with copper anti-fouling<br />

paint below the waterline. Its inboard works should be all<br />

grey or white.<br />

Gunwales & Gunwale Strakes: were generally a bright yellow,<br />

set off by a red stripe along the lower side.<br />

Dory: any shade of buff, grey or green with light grey inboard.<br />

Oars: oiled natural, but inevitably turned a weathered grey.<br />

Lanterns: Port lantern board is red and the starboard is green.<br />

FIG. 1b – Scribing the Waterline<br />

Is the model perfectly level<br />

Pencil<br />

or scriber<br />

Wood Block<br />

9

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