WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2013

in 2006 called Paralelo. D’Acosta is also involved in a venture
producing wines in the Roussillon region in southwest
France and is busy establishing a Pinot Noir vineyard using
Burgundy clones at 5,000 feet of altitude elsewhere on the
Baja peninsula. He also serves as consulting oenologist for a
number of Guadalupe Valley wineries, including Don Miller’s
Adobe Guadalupe.
As if all that weren’t enough, D’Acosta has somehow found
time to create a revolutionary wine making school, familiarly
called La Escuelita, in the tiny hamlet of El Porvenir in the
heart of the valley. The flourishing facility was established
in 2000 in an abandoned olive oil production facility using
mostly recycled building materials. The school attracts wine
enthusiasts from all walks of life who sign up to learn the
craft of making wine.
When I ask Hugo how he manages to stay involved in such
a dizzying array of projects, he pauses for a moment, then
smiles and says, “You wake up early and go late to bed.”
Although the subject of wine is at the center of life in the
“Now, Mexicans visit
the Guadalupe Valley
the way Americans
visit the Napa Valley.”
winemakers, many of whom have attended Hugo D’Acosta’s
wine school.
Whether you would like to enjoy the revelry of a festival in
the valley, or you prefer to discover its charms in a quieter
way, a visit is certain to provide you with an unforgettable
cultural experience. It has been said that the Guadalupe Valley
is like Napa was 30 or so years ago. Take a trip back in
time to a warm and hospitable place, just over the border.
Viva Baja!
HISTORY
The Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is
named after Our Lady of Guadalupe, a 16th
century Roman Catholic icon from Mexico.
The original community of Guadalupe was
founded in 1834 -- the last of a chain of Dominican
missions in Baja California. The mission
was abandoned in 1840 due to constant
attacks by local Indians. In 1904, a Russian religious
sect from Los Angeles called the Molokans
settled in the Valle de Guadalupe. They
quickly revived the culture of the vine in valley.
valley, it is paralleled by a vibrant food culture. A tremendous
variety of fruits and vegetables are cultivated in the
benevolent Mediterranean climate. Artisan olive oils are
produced from the local olives and local rustic farm cheeses
match beautifully with fresh baked bread readily available at
a number of craft bakeries. Small producers put up and sell
an array of salsas, jams, jellies, herbs and condiments. The
tasting room at the Dona Lupe winery at the north end of the
valley offers an outstanding selection of products made from
locally grown, organic fruits and vegetables.
The bounty of local produce and food products has paved the
way for a number of notable eating establishments within
the valley. The most famous of these is venerable Laja, the
creation of chef/owner Jair Téllez. Housed in a free standing
house with a minimalist interior décor, Laja has received
countless accolades for its comprehensive local wine list and
inventive cuisine. The menu is based on fresh seafood from
Ensenada, valley-raised lamb and quail and locally harvested
fruits, vegetables and herbs.
The dining rooms at two of the valley’s inns, Adobe Guadalupe
and La Villa del Valle, also offer exceptional farm-fresh
cuisine. Other culinary destinations include Deckman’s, a
farm-to-table bistro, and the Finca Altozano, celebrity Baja
chef Javier Plascencia’s working farm.
There are two annual celebrations that provide the perfect
opportunity to explore the area. The three-week Fiestas de
la Vendimia (festival of the grape harvest) in August features
winemaker dinners in a variety of venues and samplings
from local restaurants and wineries along with a variety of
live music performances. The Guateque takes place in June
and is a festive showplace for hand-crafted wines from grapes
grown or purchased in Mexico and produced by amateur
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