Eatdrink #54 July/August 2015

Serving
eatdrinkFREE
London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
№ 54 • July/August 2015
www.eatdrink.ca
SPECIAL FEATURE
Stratford’s Changing
Gastro Scene
Where to Eat Now
Balancing
Change & Tradition
at Huron County’s
Hessenland
Country Inn
FEATURING
Wich is Wich
Rethinking the Sandwich
The Oxford Kitchen
The Art of Eating Local, in Woodstock
Summer Breeze
A Road Trip Through Essex County
ALSO: SUMMERTIME: Wine, Beer, Books & Music | The Urban Homesteading Cookbook Recipes

summer
STRATFORD’s
tastes and tunes
Savour Stratford’s culinary delights with Stratford Summer Music’s
Broadway Show Tunes, Newfoundland Jazz and Mozart’s Magic Flute
cabarets and dinner at Revival House. Start your weekend picking up
fresh berries, breads, cheese and vegetables at our local markets, then
relax during Bach Brunches at The Prune. Join Flavours of Stratford
culinary walks and foraging tours or sip and sample your way along
Savour Stratford Bacon & Ale and Chocolate Trails enjoying new
summer offers.
AUG JULY
4 Stratford Farmers Market, Rotary Complex, Saturdays
5 Perth County Slow Food Market, Market Square, Sundays
4,5,6 Foraging Tours, Ongoing
25-26 Bach Musical Brunches, The Prune, Sat &Sun through Aug 30
1 Canada Food Day BBQ, Local Community Food Centre
8,28,29 Live at Revival House Cabaret and Dinner
15,16,17 Magic Flute Dinner Opera, Revival House
22 Forage and Feast
30 Bluegrass Brunch, Local Community Food Centre
Come to Stratford and
share our tastes and tunes
visitstratford.ca
@StratfordON
@SavourStratford
StratfordON
SavourStratford

SUM MER E VENT S A T T H E IDLE WYLD
Blues Brunch
July 19th, 2015 | 11:00am - 2:00pm
$50 per person inclusive
Blues Brunch with Denise Pelley in the courtyard.
Dinner and Latin Jazz Show
August 21st, 2015 | 7:00 - 10:00pm
$65 per person inclusive
sounds of Latin Jazz artisit, Orlando Valencia.
BBQ Buffet in the Courtyard
Every Wednesday | 5:30pm - 9:00pm
$29.95 + tax + gratuity
Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea
June 20th, July 18th and August 15th | 2:00 - 4:00pm
$40 per person
Enjoy a traditional high tea, featuring an assortment of loose
leaf teas, homemade scones, Devon cream and preserves,
cucumber sandwiches, savory mini quiches, and mouth
watering treats and sweets!
36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8
ph 519.432.5554 | www.idlewyldinn.com | IdlewyldInnAndSpa

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
•
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Special for the
Holidays
Our Annual
Epicurean
Gift Guide
& More!
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ALSO:
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FEATURING
Chocolate Barr’s
Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur
Old East Village
Food for Thought
The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better
| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
•
www.eatdrink.ca
THE HOLIDAY I SUE
On The Thames
A Classic Celebration Destination
Special for the
Holidays
Our Annual
Epicurean
Gift Guide
& More!
Books • Beer • Plants • Theatre • Music
ALSO:
FREE
FEATURING
Chocolate Barr’s
Stratford’s Chocolatier Provocateur
Old East Village
Food for Thought
The 10th Annual Show: Bigger & Better
| SmartAPP | Jamie’s Comfort Food | Deliciously Lost in Italy
eatdrink
inc.
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
eatdrinkmag
@eatdrinkmag
Think Global.
Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor
Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor
Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Cecilia Buy, Darin Cook,
Dave Hammond, Gary Killops, Nicole Laidler,
Bryan Lavery, Tracy Turlin, Lori Maddigan,
Sue Sutherland-Wood, Allan Watts,
Rick Weingarden, Rick Young
Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
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eatdrink
THE HOLIDAY ISSUE
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On The Thames
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Plus!
OUR COVER
Chef Frank Ihrig and Liz Ihrig are
now at the reins of their family’s
Hessenland Country Inn,
established by Frank’s parents,
on the Lake Huron shore midway
between Grand Bend and Bayfield.
Great Local BBQ Meats !
Meats & So Much More!
We are your London outlet for
Metzger Meat Products • The Whole Pig
Blanbrook Bison Farm • Lena’s Lamb
www.reallygreatmeat.ca
Hormone & Drug-Free
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market • Saturdays, 8am–3pm • 226-376-6328 • jardines@saucymeats.com

ST.MARYS
STONETOWN
Choose the scenic rural route and discover the unexpected ...
a Heritage Conservation District town with specialty shops,
historical treasures and homegrown hospitality.
Just 15 minutes southwest of Stratford.
Let us help you plan your visit.
Visit our Information Centre at Queen Street
& James Street N in the historic railway station.
t. 519.284.3500 | toll free 1.800.769.7668
e. tourism@town.stmarys.com
TownofStMarys.com

contents ISSUE № 54
JULY/AUGUST 2015
15
20
FOOD WRITER AT LARGE
10 Stratford’s Changing Gastro Scene: Where to Eat Now
By BRYAN LAVERY
RESTAURANTS
15 Hessenland Country Inn: Keeping with Tradition & the Times
By JANE ANTONIAK
20 Wich is Wich: Rethinking the Sandwich
By BRYAN LAVERY
23 The Art of Eating Local: The Oxford Kitchen in Woodstock
By LORI MADDIGAN
ROAD TRIPS
26 Summer Breeze: Discovering Essex Country
By CECILIA BUY
NEW & NOTABLE
34 The BUZZ
IN THE GARDEN
42 Water and Watering: A Gardener’s Dilemma
By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN
WINE
44 Wines for Summertime Sipping
26 44
By GARY KILLOPS
BEER MATTERS
46 Patio Season Ales: Saison and Kölsch
By THE MALT MONK
42
23
COOKBOOKS
50 The Urban Homesteading Cookbook by Michelle Nelson
Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
THEATRE
54 On the Boards: Musical Theatre on the Thames
By RICK YOUNG
34
THE BUZZ
56
54
MUSIC
56 Sound Bites: A Taste of Festival Season
By NICOLE LAIDLER
BOOKS
60 Foodie Fiction: Beach Reads
Review by DARIN COOK
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 Some Get Their Kicks from Propane
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD
50

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 7
Grand
enjoy!
Bend Summer Sunset Sounds,
Sunday nights on the Main Beach
call or click for your FREE experience guide & map
also available at southwestern ontario travel centres
1.800.265.0316 •
tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

8 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
notes from the publisher
Summertime Summertime ...
By CHRIS McDONELL
If “summertime” really means the living
is easy, it’s also busy. Is there anyone
over the age of 10 who does NOT find
summer too short? The list of things I
want to get done this summer is clearly too
long, but I will be busting my tail to get them
done — including soaking my feet off the
end of a dock while reading
a good book and trying some
new beers. It’s a tough job, but
someone’s got to do it!
We have a number of stories
to help inspire you on your own
summer adventures. Summer
music, summer theatre, summer
reading, summer beer, summer
wine ... the theme is hard to
miss. Bryan Lavery sorts out the
amazingly plentiful changes on
the Stratford gastro scene, and as
summer truly arrives, there is plenty
of excitement and anticipation in the
Festival City.
Keep your eye out throughout this issue
for information about other festivals of all
kinds. Harbourfest in Port Stanley, Steed
& Co.’s Lavender Fairy Festival, Downtown
Woodstock’s Summer Streetfest, the Forest
City Beer Fest ... the list goes on.
Win a Lexus Road Trip!
from
• Restaurants • Culinary Retail •
eatdrink
This summer’s cover story features one of
our favourite couples. They’re open spring
to fall, but Frank and Liz Ihrig’s Hessenland
Country Inn is almost “summer” personified.
Jane Antoniak’s visit was rewarded with
a great story on balancing tradition and
Farmers’ Markets
LocaL
LONDON’S
20
15
FLAVOUR
CULINARY GUIDE
2 0
1 5
change. Likewise, Lori Madigan
found another worthy destination
in Woodstock’s The Oxford
Kitchen. And Cecilia Buy took a
road trip worth copying when
she visited Essex County, sipping
and savouring along the way.
I have added “Drink wine on
the beach” to my own summer
bucket list.
We at eatdrink are proud
of our latest publication
for Tourism London. For a
copy of the 2015 London’s Local
Flavour, look for it online at both our website
(eatdrink.ca) or londontourism.ca or pick up
a hard copy at Tourism London, at London’s
farmers’ markets and around town.
londontourism.ca
Happy Summer!
Enter our Draw for a Lexus Reflections President Package
The comprehensive appearance reconditioning service will completely rejuvenate
your vehicle. While the fully-trained Appearance Technicians detail your vehicle,
you will be provided with a beautiful Lexus to drive for a weekend!
Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag
Contest ends August 26, 2015. Complete details online.
&
A Publication from
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Discover
SHOPPING
RICHMOND ROW
123 King Street, London | 519.663.2002 | info@downtownlondon.ca
www.downtownlondon.ca

10 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
food writer at large
Stratford’s Changing Gastro Scene:
Where to Eat Now
By BRYAN LAVERY | Photographs by NICK LAVERY
Stratford is known internationally for
the Stratford Shakespeare Festival,
which runs from April to October.
The Festival’s primary mandate is
to present repertory productions of William
Shakespeare’s plays, but it also produces a
diverse variety of theatre, from classic Greek
tragedies to more contemporary works. The
Festival and the renowned Stratford Chefs
School have contributed to the formation
of a distinctively vibrant dining culture and
restaurant community.
One of the standout features of Stratford’s
successful gastro scene is its relaxed but
intellectually driven approach to cuisine.
Restaurant enthusiasts have long disputed
whether Rundles, The Prune, Bijou, Mercer
Hall and more recently The Bruce, with
their pre-theatre prix fixe menus, are
the cutting edge dining experience in
Stratford. Incidentally, Stratford’s prix fixe
menus are an arrangement that is meant
to expedite the challenges of pre-theatre
dining where theatre-goers arrive and
Bijou
For many years Bijou has been at the top
of its game for inspired, locally-sourced
cuisine in Stratford. The restaurant has
built a reputation for providing a good local
Bijou
depart simultaneously. These fine dining
establishments mostly justify their price with
quality, innovative cuisine, and dazzling,
intelligent service.
The Church, (now Revival House), was also
in its heyday a benchmark for fine dining.
There are of course, many other notable
contenders with fresh and original dining
concepts, including Monforte on Wellington,
Pazzo, Canadiana Grub, Sirkel Foods, and
soon, the highly anticipated Red Rabbit.
Stratford is also flush with culinary ‘hubs’
where chefs, farmers, artists, locals and
visitors come together, such as Your Local
Market Co-op, the Local Community Food
Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market at the
Agri-plex on Saturdays and the Slow Food
Market on Sundays. Anne Campion’s Revel
Caffé on Market Place is also a great local
hub, or a place to grab and go with Chef
Jordan Lassaline’s delicious baking. The
coffee beans are from Las Chicas del Café
and come exclusively from a farm in the
Nicaraguan rainforest.
taste experience. Mark and Linda Simone
purchased the bistro in March and added
a new entrance off Wellington Street, and
a new bar in the front area. The blackboard
pre theatre dinner menu is prix fixe,
offering two courses for $48.00 and
three courses for $54.00. Chef Max
Holbrook has added a globallyinspired
tapas bar menu of small
plates that is available after 7:30 p.m.
Bijou is expected to operate for 10
months of the year.
105 Erie Street, Stratford (2nd entrance off
Wellington Street) www.bijourestaurant.com
Down the Street
Down the Street recently re-opened
under new ownership with
partners Jacqueline Hayden and

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 11
Cassandre Frost along with Alondra
Gálvez as the new manager. This iconic
bar/restaurant is Stratford’s late-night
hot spot with high-energy bistro dining
that offers both pre- and post-show
dining. The open kitchen features menus
from Chef Lee Avigdor’s and sous chef
Greg Him, which showcase locally and
seasonally inspired items. Bar chef Ulises
Sanchez features an exciting list of craft
cocktails, micro-brews and wines by the
glass. 30 Ontario Street, www.downthestreet.ca
Monforte on Wellington
The two year-old establishment is a
casual, seasonally–inspired osteria featuring
a simple menu larded with artisanal cheeses,
charcuterie, pastas, salads and other in-house
specialties. Chefs Loreena Miller and Sarah
Sinasac have developed a synergy between
the terroir and the diner — no doubt inspired
by Monforte Dairy founder and cheesemaker
Ruth Klahsen, whose passion for all things
sustainable, local and hand-crafted seems
to feed her creative soul and entrepreneurial
enthusiasm. The osteria is BYOW with a
corkage fee, or, if you order a glass of VQA
wine they might bring you a full bottle and
charge you for what you imbibe. The kitchen
is open to the dining room and there is a
passageway beside the kitchen that leads to a
charming courtyard for al fresco dining.
80 Wellington Street www.fb.com/MonforteOnWellington
Mercer Hall
Bill and Shelley Windsor, who also own The
Prune, purchased Mercer Hall in May.
Executive Chef Ryan O’Donnell was planning
to be involved with The Prune as well as
Mercer Hall. He realized this was too much
Mercer Hall
Monforte on Wellington
of a stretch and details were subsequently
worked out that have placed him at Mercer
Hall. We love the rusticity and innovation of
O’Donnell’s cooking. The theatrical plating
of both the vegetable charcuterie plate with
carrot terrine, parsnip chips, smoked beet
mousse, grilled ramps and pickled mushrooms,
as well as the cold smoked salmon
board with Monforte cream cheese, dill,
salmon roe and crackers are inspirational.
The Monforte Halloumi salad with grilled
romaine is a stand-out. The craft cocktails
are excellent and the service is spot on.
108 Ontario Street, www.mercerhall.ca
The Bruce
The dining rooms are white linen, chic and
understated, with comfortable square-backed
upholstered chairs and settees. This is the top
of high-end dining indeed, and the menus are
loaded with the ingredients which that term
evokes. New chef at The Bruce Hotel is Arron
Carley, who was former sous chef at Oliver
& Bonacini’s Canoe in Toronto. He describes
the vision for the new menus: “Looking into
our past and understanding our roots as well
as looking forward into the undiscovered
wilderness of our nation, we will forge New
Canadian Cuisine.” At the time of this
writing the dinner menu is prix fixe, offering
two Beginnings and Dessert for $58.00,
one Beginning and Middle for $58.00, or a
Beginning, Middle and Dessert for $68.00.
There is also a five-course tasting menu
available after 7:30 pm for $90.00 per person
and only available to an entire table. Breakfast
and lunch are à la carte and The Lounge offers
a separate menu. There is a stunning courtyard
for al fresco dining. 89 Parkview Drive www.thebruce.ca

12 www.eatdrink.ca
Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria
Taverna, at Pazzo’s street-level
ristorante proffers rustic Italianinspired
cuisine in a contemporary
setting. Chef Yva Santini’s menu
offerings feature local ingredients,
and products working in conjunction
with regional producers to add
seasonality to the dining experience.
Will Gaynor is still the Pizzeria head
chef. Steve Doyle, formerly of The
Bruce and Bijou, has joined Pazzo as
the Taverna manager and is heading
up some changes to the cocktail and
wine programs. Pazzo continues to
host the Taverna Revue concert series
in the Taverna and continues to serve
the best thin crust pizza in the area.
70 Ontario Street www.pazzo.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
Stratford
is
more than
great
theatre.
visitstratford.ca
@StratfordON
StratfordON
The Prune
The Prune
The Prune, a long-time Stratford
favourite, changed hands in 2011
with Bill and Shelley Windsor taking
ownership. Bryan Steele remains
Executive Chef at The Prune, and
the season is off to a busy start. The
menu is prix fixe, offering two courses
for $49.00, three courses for $59.00, or
four courses for $69.00. Some items
like the Church Hill Farm lamb two
ways with ramps, roasted cauliflower
and mint salt have a $10 supplement.
Anticipating a strong season,
Restaurant Manager Joel Kechnie tells
us The Prune will open for lunch in
July. 151 Albert Street www.theprune.com​
thurs 10-4 Fri 9-7 sat 8-2
western Fair Farmers’ market 8-3

Mon to Sat 9am to 6pm, Sun 10am to 5pm

14 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
a graduate of the Stratford Chefs School.
Revival House offers event dining. Upstairs
in the former Belfry, The Chapel features an
80-seat gastro pub, and a VIP lounge called
Confessions. The Revival house features a
new patio that backs onto Brunswick Street.
70 Brunswick Street www.revival.house
The Red Rabbit (under renovation)
The Red Rabbit
Chef Tim Larsen, Jessie Larsen and
Chef Sean Collins left Mercer Hall earlier in
the year to build a new community-shared
restaurant on Wellington Street called
the The Red Rabbit. Collins and Sous-Chef
Jon Naiman will be leading the kitchen at
the worker-owned venture. That team is
also comprised of a core group of other
kitchen and front-of-house professionals.
The restaurant’s focus is on local ingredients
from area farmers, local producers, local
brewers and distillers. There will be beer on
tap from Stratford’s Black Swan Brewery,
and spirits from the city’s new Junction 56
Distillery. After several delays, the projected
opening date is late June 2015. 64 Wellington
Street www.redrabbitresto.com
Revival House
Rob Wigan and Candice Sanderson
Wigan of Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub purchased
the iconic Church Restaurant. The
former Baptist church turned fine dining
establishment debuts this summer
as Revival House. Chefs Kyle Rose and Byron
Hallett (late of London’s former Auberge
du Petit Prince) will operate the kitchen,
emphasizing a Canadian menu featuring
whole animal butchery and charcuterie
on the daily menu. Rose apprenticed at
The Church eight years ago and Hallett is
Rundles
Neil Baxter has been Chef de Cuisine at
Rundles since 1981, and has completed
stages in France at such renowned Michelin
three-star restaurants as Jamin, Tour
D’Argent, Taillevent and Troisgros. Baxter
has also completed stages at Noma, in
Copenhagen, and Frantzén, in Stockholm.
Rundles has eliminated the Sophisto-Bistro
and is continuing with the pre-theatre
and late dinner service upon which they
built their reputation for excellence and
innovation. The table d’hôte menu features a
selection from the appetizer section, a main
dish, dessert, and coffee or tea for $99.50 per
person. Wine, taxes and service are extra.
9 Cobourg Street www.rundlesrestaurant.com
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at
Large.
Revival House (under renovation)

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 15
restaurants
Hessenland Country Inn
Keeping with Tradition, Changing with the Times
By JANE ANTONIAK
Frank Ihrig is looking at the
Hessenland Country Inn
through fresh eyes these
days. “I’m getting older,”
he muses while surveying the
family’s five acre property from a
silo tower perch equipped with
a small balcony. Somehow, he
thinks that at 42 he is getting old.
His wife, and business partner,
Liz, is also wistful about being
in her early 40’s. “We’re getting
older,” he repeats, “so I’m trying to
simplify things, not overly complicate
the food and the experience.”
What neither of them acknowledges is
that they have hit their full stride in mid-life,
Owner and Chef Frank Ihrig preserves the family traditions at
Hessenland, while keeping the Inn, and the menu, up-to-date
turning the quaint German-style inn into a
spectacular event location with a kitchen so
sparkling that you could literally eat off the
floors — except who would want to do that
when they could have Frank placing delicate
modern morsels of European-based foods on
the table? What he thinks is simple is, rather,
full flavour, artfully presented and shows
the maturity of his years of hard work and
experience as a chef.
Take, for example his latest creation — a
soup board of seasonal soups in shot glasses
served on an ash tree branch which Frank
crafted from trees on the property. Or the
garnish of tomato compote for the hackbraten
meatball burger, topped with shards of local
Metzger bacon, shitake mushrooms and
onions. Or the house-made Northern Spy
sorbet served by the dollop on a slice of apple.
No, the Ihrigs aren’t getting older. As the saying
goes, they’re getting better.
Frank grew up at the Hessenland after
immigrating to Canada from Germany as
a child with his parents, Christa and Ernst
Ihrig. They drew a loyal following to the
Inn, of other Germans looking for classic
Frank & Liz Ihrig have gradually taken over the
reins at the family-owned Hessenland Country Inn

16 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
schnitzel, rouladen, spaetzle and red
cabbage. Frank went Guelph University and
earned a Bachelor of Commerce/Hospitality
degree, met Liz (also a Commerce graduate).
Then he studied culinary arts in Germany,
Whistler, Australia and Switzerland, and
she learned corporate event planning at the
Westin in Toronto. He returned to the Inn
with Liz in 2001, and together they gradually
took over the reins.
It was a big decision for the young couple,
From the traditional, to the comtemporary, to the final flourish: the Salad Selection
includes carrot salad, beet salad, beans & pesto, and sweet corn salad; Burger Meister
sliders, and a selection of desserts, made fresh daily in the Hessenland kitchen
Enjoy the views from the bright and airy dining room, or dine al
fresco (below), on the terrace
to set their careers in the small community of
St. Joseph in Huron County. But by working
hard through their thirties they built an
impressive wedding venue business. With
20 staff in high season, they host 35 to 40
weddings each year, as well anniversary
celebrations and other special events. Some
are held in the main Inn and others in the
adjacent coach house. Frank and Liz leaned
towards modernizing the traditional German
atmosphere, renovating and updating the 20
rooms and interiors. The dining room
runs from spring to Christmas and is
famous for special occasion brunches
and evening meals. Frank continues
to experiment in the kitchen, using
more and more locally-sourced
items to create such menu items as
West Coast Lakefood Chowder, and
various iterations of the Hensall white
bean. “I’m always pushing the white
bean,” he laughs. He added a popular
“Mongolian Grill” every Thursday
night in the summer where guests,
and Frank, enjoy outdoor cooking
in the beautiful gardens. “It gets me
outside and interacting with people. I
love it,” he says.
Now the couple find themselves
coming full circle, sentimentally
honouring the German traditions
again but with a deliciously modern
flair. Recently, Frank insisted on
writing the menu in German, with
English translations. Hauptgang,
Kalbs Schnitzel Wiener Art, Suppe
and Salat lead the pack. But so do the
lip-smacking Burger Meister Plate —
zesty beef and pork meatball patties
on pretzel buns from Poganatz

№ 54 | July/August 2015
bakery at the Goderich market — and
the white asparagus velouté and tomato
bisque from veggies a few metres down the
highway at Masse Farms. Frank now sells
his tomato compote and strawberry sorbet
in private label frozen batches at Hayter’s in
Dashwood and at some markets.
“I really appreciate all we have in the area
and I love showcasing it. Every year I discover
new growers and producers [whose products]
I can use for special meals,” he says.
After a recent kitchen renovation, Frank
now offers a chef’s table for private groups of
up to 16. It’s a chef’s choice menu paired with
wines and sometimes with Hessenland’s own
Hessenland Helles Bavarian style beer (made
at the Niagara College Teaching Brewery).
Guests might be treated to beef tenderloin
with white bean risotto, Lake Huron
bouillabaisse, and chocolate creations.
This spring, the Ihrigs planted their first
trial crop of grapes to begin a micro-winery
on site. They hope to make their first wine in
2018. Hessenwein labels will feature riesling
(what good German inn can’t have riesling!),
chardonnay, cabernet franc, fontenac gris,
marquette and siegerrebe. “We’re taking it
slow to see what can be done,” says Frank.
Niagara-based consultants are working
with the Ihrigs. Many believe that the
micro-climate along Lake Huron in the area
replicates the Niagara growing conditions.
“The older I get, I appreciate more and
more where I am living. Living right on the
lake — the seasonality of it is so special,”
says Frank. The Ihrigs are raising their son
Sebastian at Hessenland and have made a
commitment to staying in the area.
If this is what growing older looks like,
then it will certainly be interesting to see
how the Ihrigs embrace their fifties, and
beyond, and what that will bring those lucky
enough to enjoy the fruits of their labours
and talents.
Hessenland Country Inn
72981 Bluewater Highway, Zurich
519-236-7707; toll free: 1-866-543-7736
www.hessenland.com
dining room: 5–8:30 pm nightly, by
reservation
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink. She
is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s
University College, London.
Trust...
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Open six days a week.
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Available in London at
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Lunch and Dinner — Seasonal Hours
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“A BARGAIN
HUNTER’S PARADISE”
The Little Inn has launched two new culinary
destinations, The Four In Hand Taproom, and the
elegant Willow Room. Featuring bespoke menu
concepts by Executive Chef Michael Potters,
and a stellar wine, spirit and cocktail selection
realized by John Szabo, Master Sommelier.
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Monday,
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Local 519 565 2611
visit us online at littleinn.com
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AUG. 9, 10-2
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Over 200 Vendors
3 Miles South of
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20 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
restaurants
Rethinking the Sandwich
Wich is Wich pays homage to a venerable staple, in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
Elaine Sawyer and her
son, chef Josh Sawyer,
take comfort food to new
heights at their “proper
sandwich shop,” Wich is Wich.
The shop is essentially homage
to the diversity of the sandwich.
With global flavours, exotic
ingredients and textural contrasts
they become edible works of art.
Like the artisanal grilled-cheese
shops, the gourmet sandwich
shop has become a culinary
subgenre that is booming in
urban centres.
Elaine Sawyer is familiar to Londoners
as a former morning radio co-host, who
was successfully paired with Rich Greven
on Q97.5, for many years. Elaine’s road
to the on-air booth was circuitous. She
worked in radio and television marketing,
eventually ending up at CKSL, where she
and Greven became good friends. After a
format change, Greven moved to Q, and
the station embarked on a search for a
co-host. That is when Elaine got the call. For
years the high-profile duo could be found
at local community functions from charity
fundraisers to cook-offs.
Each impeccably proportioned Wich is Wich sandwich is
“a work of art” made with fresh and exotic ingredients
Josh was employed for many years as a
chef in upmarket West Coast restaurants,
and aboard the Attessa IV, while working for
billionaire industrialist and philanthropist
Dennis Washington. Josh cooked for
Washington and a roster of celebrity guests
which included Bill and Melinda Gates,
Warren Buffet, Oprah Winfrey, Barbra
Streisand, Leonardo DiCaprio and Quincy
Jones. If someone wanted to eat late night,
Josh was on call 24/7. They often wanted one
of his sandwiches.
Executive Chef Thomas Waite — proprie tor
of the boutique catering company In Home
Chef — and sous chef Andrew
West are also on hand in the
kitchen. The team is known for
its take on classic comfort food,
specifically updated riffs on
gourmet versions with global
ingredients and an eye to health
consciousness.
The melt-in-your-mouth porchetta is
savoury, fatty and moist and prepared
from locally-sourced pork shoulder,
with crackling, herby mustard seed
vinaigrette and arugula, and served on
a bianco roll.

№ 54 | July/August 2015
Last July Elaine leased the former
Cakewalkers space across from the
Covent Garden Market. At the time the
space was a bare-bones shell, which
needed to be developed and adapted
for restaurant operations. Several
organizations provided help to Elaine
to expedite the development of the
premises, in particular Ethan Ling in
the Business Liaison office, Jason Silcox
in the Building Division, Cory Tung at
Middlesex London Health Unit, along
with the Fire Department.
Elaine also gives credit to her
neighbour, Downtown London.
The organization helps downtown
businesses take advantage of all
available incentives, promotes
downtown businesses and handles a
variety of other functions that support
their members.
A smart urban exterior features a
large window, which gives Wich is
Wich a close-up view of the Covent
Garden Market. It’s pretty much a sitdown
restaurant, with plenty of seating
and friendly hospitable servers, but
with a casual ambiance and a curated
soundtrack of predominantly laid
back rhythm and blues. There is a bit
of an urban-industrial aesthetic with
modern touches, reclaimed brick
walls, a playful mix of retro chairs,
window seating and a communal table
designed by Chris at McKaskell Haindl
Design Build.
The prepping and assembling takes
place in full view of customers, (behind
a glass partition), showcasing the
creative ways ingredients are being
paired by the chefs and facilitating
interaction with the customers.
Impeccably proportioned
sandwiches made with fresh
baguettes include such classics as
chicken w’anh mi, (their take on the
Vietnamese classic bánh mì), which
is given a twist when prepared with
marinated chicken thigh, pickled
crunchy vegetables, cucumber,
cilantro, sweet chili condiment;
Moroccan-inspired Marrakech chicken
prepared with certified Halal thigh,
ras el hanout, tzatziki, Shiraz salad,
lemon tahini, lettuce and pickles; The
Italian-inspired Bella is prepared with
The redesigned urban industrial interior features (from
the top): plenty of seating; sandwich prepping and assembly
in full view of customer, behind a glass partition; a great view
of Covent Garden Market; and a chalkboard menu.

22 www.eatdrink.ca
sopresetta, porchetta, green olive aioli,
crunchy marinated vegetables, lettuce,
tomato and provolone cheese; The South
American influenced Carnitas are made
with pork shoulder, tomatillo jus, pineapple
salsa fresco, salad greens and ww’acamole
(Wich is Wich’s take on guacamole).
The melt-in-your-mouth porchetta is
savoury, fatty and moist and prepared
from locally-sourced pork shoulder, with
crackling, herby mustard seed vinaigrette
and arugula, and served on a bianco roll.
There is a charcuterie board for sharing, the
Wich Board, with quality butchery meats,
pickles, artisan cheeses,`Lito’s beer mustard
and other accoutrements.
The kale and wheat berry salad is
decadent with its marinated raisins, red
pepper, carrot, beet, sunflower seeds, and a
knock-out honey-ginger dressing. Also on
offer are homemade soups, a kids’ menu
(Nutella and Banana sandwich), cane sugar
№ 54 | July/August 2015
sodas, Ontario craft beers (Black Swan,
Forked River, Mill Street and Wellington)
and red and white wine by the glass. The
Bananas Foster is so over-the-top good
it could become a calling card for the
sandwich shop.
The stylish 40–45 seat shop offers dine in,
grab & go, and catering services. Customers
are able to email their orders for pick up.
The shop features curb-side takeout as an
option.
Wich is Wich
125 King Street, London
519-860-9424
www.wichiswich.ca
hours of operation
monday–saturday: 11 a.m.–7 p.m.
(Open later during Budweiser Garden events)
sunday: 11 a.m.–4 p.m.
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food
Editor and Writer at Large.
The Italian-inspired Bella (left) is
prepared with sopresetta, porchetta,
green olive aioli, crunchy marinated
vegetables, lettuce, tomato and
provolone cheese. Although best
known for sandwiches, Wich is Wich
also offers homemade soups, salads,
sides, and a sharing board, as well as a
kids’ menu.

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 23
restaurants
The Art of Eating Local
Enter The Oxford Kitchen Restaurant & Bar, in Woodstock
By LORI MADDIGAN
Many foodies dream
of owning their own
restaurants. For Kevin
and Mandy Whiting,
that dream came true on June 4, 2014.
Long-time residents of Woodstock,
Kevin and Mandy often visited the local
steakhouse on the corner of Simcoe
and Finkel Streets. Little did they know
that it would one day be The Oxford
Kitchen, and their second home.
Prior to opening The Oxford
Kitchen, Kevin worked as a production
manager in the manufacturing
sector. He had some bartending
experience in England before moving
to Canada ten years ago. Mandy, now
a recruiter for a staffing company,
The Oxford Kitchen dining area (above), with
fireplace area, and the adjacent bar (below)
Chef Jorge Gonzalez, and owners Mandy and Kevin Whiting
held a part-time job at Tim Hortons while in high
school. Although the couple’s combined work experience
in restaurants is limited, Mandy says, “We’ve
visited many!” Kevin adds, “We know what makes
people smile and we know what makes a place fun.
That’s what we want The Oxford Kitchen to be.”
Although the restaurant’s transition (from the previous
owner to the Whitings) was undertaken with
a careful two-year planning process, the doors were
closed for only ten days before The Oxford Kitchen
launched with a fresh vibe, and a new menu featuring
upscale pub fare prepared with local ingredients.
“Most of our food comes from within 100 miles,” says
Mandy. “Except some of the seafood,” Kevin adds,
“there’s not much tuna in the great lakes!” With the
Woodstock farmer’s market open every Saturday, and
a summer market across the street on Thursdays, the
Whitings and Executive Chef Jorge Gonzalez don’t
have to travel far for fresh produce to create the Oxford
Harvest Salad or the ever-popular Grilled Romaine
Caesar, a romaine heart lightly grilled and served with
prosciutto, cherry tomatoes, parmesan and housemade
dressing. The fresh, crispy coleslaw that accompanies
the generous serving of craft beer-battered fish
and hand-cut fries is also delicious. “Our burgers are
just fresh ground beef — no additives, no fillers, just
a burger,” says Kevin. The Bacon Encrusted Ribs has

№ 54 | July/August 2015
DOWNTOWN WOODSTOCK
August 6–9, 2015
4 Day Street Festival Featuring:
Live Entertainment – Over 30 Acts on 3 Stages
Great Shopping at the Downtown Shops
Street Vendors, Art in the Square
Fabulous Restaurants and Patios
Bikes & Blues – Hot Bikes & Cool Blues (Aug. 8th)
Sunday, August 9th, 9am–3pm
Free Registration – All Cars, Trucks & Motorcycles Welcome
Charity BBQ / 50-50 / DJ / Door Prizes / Entertainment
Entertainment Sponsor
Thursday Aug. 6th
Multi CMA Winners - Jamie Warren,
Steve Wilkinson (The Wilkinsons)
& Russell deCarle (Prairie Oyster)
(7pm - Main Stage)
plus recording artists Sarah Smith,
Rebekah Stevens, David Leask,
Movin’ Groovin’ & Verhoeven,
The Geoff Masse Band & more!
Friday Aug. 7th
The Imbayakunas,
The Roadies, Hangar 18,
Hurtin’ Merv,
&
Saturday ay Aug. 8th
Cruise Into Woodstock,
Park Your Ride & Enjoy Great Blues!
Tim Tyler, Tim Woodcock,
The Stanley Brown Blues Band, Lobster Boy,
Voodoo Walters, and Juno Award Winners
Chuck Jackson & The All-Stars & Jack De Keyzer!
ph. 519-537-5721
www.downtownwoodstock.ca
facebook.com/downtownwoodstock
@WoodstockBIA
191 Old Wellington St. S Woodstock
Play.
Jamie Warren
Russell deCarle
Chuck Jackson
Jack De Keyzer
emerged as the favourite dish of
many of the regular customers.
Food is important but there is
more to a great dining experience,
and the Whitings know it. “We
wanted to create a place where
we would want to go and hang
out,” says Mandy. With a warm,
inviting atmosphere — from the
cozy booths, to the fireplace area,
to the well-stocked bar — The
Oxford Kitchen makes customers
feel at home. On the last Friday of
every month, guests can relax to
the sounds of local jazz musicians
while sipping Ontario wines or craft
beers. Customers can also admire
and purchase works created by
area photographers and artists.
“Displaying the pieces helps
the artists and we get beautiful
artwork for our walls,” says Kevin.
A firm believer in local businesses
supporting each other, Kevin
promotes a Woodstock bakery that
prepares decadent desserts for The
Oxford Kitchen, and recommends
a nearby music lounge that waives
its cover charge for customers who
arrive after dining at The Oxford
Kitchen. “Bright Cheese and Butter
is dropping by today,” says Kevin.
“A young couple won a prize from
them that includes dinner at The
Oxford Kitchen, so tonight we’re
running a special cheese feature.”
Business helping business to create
great customer experiences equals a
dream come true for the Whitings!
Working collaboratively
with others and helping the
community is just a part of Kevin’s
DNA. As a member of the Board
of Directors for the Oxford United
Way, he works to raise funds to
support local charities through
events such as the First Annual
Woodstock Craft Beer Festival, to
be hosted by The Oxford Kitchen
this summer, in coordination
with the restaurant’s seven
Ontario brewery partners. Kevin
and Mandy also want to take a
leadership role in reducing waste
and promoting recycling. “Things
that are important to us — things

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we do at home — we want to do
here too,” says Mandy. “We told our
big suppliers that we won’t accept
anything that’s not recyclable —
no polystyrene containers here.”
Steak with potatoes and locallysourced
seasonal vegetables
Fish & Chips (often
a Friday special)
Kevin’s goal: “I’d like the restaurant to go a whole week
this summer without producing any garbage.”
The Oxford Kitchen, with seating for 105 (but the
capacity for 205) can be reserved for weddings and
special events. A private dining room, used as a gallery
for the Oxford Photographic Arts Guild, holds 34 guests
seated, or 50 mingling, and is ideal for business meetings
and private parties. Chef Gonzalez, the Whitings,
and the rest of The Oxford Kitchen team enjoy working
with customers to create special menus and other
accommodations.
A lot has happened in one short year for two people
who jumped feet first into a new business venture, but
Mandy says, “We love being here; it just feels natural.”
With local regulars who Kevin now regards as family,
and repeat patrons coming from London, Kitchener,
Stratford and even Toronto, customers surely love
being at The Oxford Kitchen too.
The Oxford Kitchen Restaurant & Bar
450 Simcoe Street, Woodstock
519-421-2200
www.oxfordkitchenwoodstock.com
hours of operation
mon–fri: 11 am – 9 pm; sat & sun: 4 pm – 9 pm
LORI MADDIGAN is a London area freelance writer who believes that
good food inspires good writing.

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The heart of
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28 www.eatdrink.ca
road trips
Summer Breeze
A Road Trip through Essex County
№ 54 | July/August 2015
SPONSORED BY
By CECILIA BUY
There are certain moments, on
certain summer days, that can
later return to your mind with
delightful, smile-provoking
clarity. A road trip through Essex County
can provide many such moments — and
create great memories.
Essex, Canada’s southernmost county,
is bounded by Lake St. Clair to the north,
the Detroit River, and Lake Erie. It includes
Windsor, Amherstburg, Leamington and
Pelee Island. It has some of the warmest
summer weather in Canada. And a friendly,
community-minded population.
Find a home base, because you’ll want to
spend at least a couple of days. There are a
number of hotels, mostly in the larger towns
and cities. Scattered around the county are
numerous B&Bs. You might make the happy
decision to make your home-away-fromhome
at the Iron Kettle Bed and Breakfast, in
Comber (just off the 401, near Tilbury). The
owners, Chef Benjamin Leblanc-Beaudoin
and his wife Ginette Tremblay, provide firstrate
accommodations and a comfortable,
relaxed ambience in their heritage home.
“Local and seasonal” truly does describe
the food: breakfast might include freshly
made croissants from Chef’s kitchen, breads
The house and gardens at the Iron Kettle Bed and Breakfast, in Comber.
The southernmost point of Pelee Island
from a neighbouring artisanal bakery, and
omelettes made with farm-fresh eggs and
just-picked wild garlic chives.
Of course one of the reasons you might
be down here, (just perhaps), is that Essex
County is home to nearly twenty wineries.
Lake Erie North Shore is one of Ontario’s
three primary appellations of origin (along
with Prince Edward County and Niagara
Peninsula). From the heavy hitters like
Pelee Island and Colio, to smaller but wellestablished
vineyards like Sprucewood
Shores, Colchester Ridge, Muscedere and
Viewpointe, to relative newcomers such
as Oxley, Cooper’s Hawk, and North 42
Degrees, these vineyards enjoy the warming
effect of Lake Erie’s shallow waters, a
long growing season, and a very southern
location. (The 42nd parallel north also
passes through some of Europe’s finest
wine-growing regions,
as well as the Oregon/
California border.)
The wineries welcome
travellers to tours and
wine tastings, either
scheduled or arranged by
appointment. Many have
dining options that focus
on locally-sourced and
seasonal ingredients.
Here’s a sampling of
some wineries to consider
visiting on your Essex
County trip:

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Preparing for tastings with Martin Gorski of North 42
Degrees (top), and at Viewpointe Estate Winery.
Oxley Estate Winery, located on a bluff on
the shore of Lake Erie, hosts visitors in a renovated
1920s barn. The light-filled and elegant
tasting/dining area opens onto a spacious
terrace. Oxley produces award-winning wines
in small lots from traditional grapes, and from
less common, sustainable varieties such as
Auxerrois and Regent.
Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards is committed to
sustainable practices. The 67-acre property
comprises wetlands, ponds and woods as
well as the vineyards. Tours and tastings
are customized, and the recently expanded
premises feature a new restaurant offering
locally sourced foods, and wine pairings.
Cooper’s Hawk produces wines that are both
affordable and of award-winning quality.
Situated directly on the shore of Lake
Erie, Viewpointe Estate Winery offers
plenty to the wine tourist: tastings, tours,
culinary demonstrations and other events.
The restaurant is open daily in the summer.
Chef Jodie Brown’s strong support of local
farmers and producers is evident in the
delicious and creative offerings.
Whether you’re a fine wine aficionado or
a cardboardeaux connoisseur (hey, don’t
be so quick to judge), Colio Estate Wines is
worth a visit. One of the first wineries in the
region, and now one of Canada’s top five
№ 54 | July/August 2015
producers, Colio focuses on big reds, but is
also known for its characterful sauvignon
blancs, chardonnays and rieslings.
If your schedule (or the ferry schedule)
doesn’t allow for a visit to Pelee Island,
you can still enjoy a tour and tasting at
Pelee Island Winery in Kingsville, which is
open year-round. Pelee is Canada’s largest
estate-owned winery, and the wide range of
product offerings means there’s something
for every palate. It also means that many
Pelee wines are on menus in the region. A
lovely wine to pair with a sunny patio — 2013
Cabernet Franc Rosé from the Retro series.
Consider leaving the car behind for
part of your winery tour. Essex County is
notoriously flat (though there is a major
exception — the 30–50 foot (10–15 m) high
ridge near Kingsville and Leamington). Farm
Dog Cycles offers short and leisurely tasting
tours, as well as full-day guided rides that
take you through some of the best wining
and dining and cycling in the area. The
Farm Dog family is accommodating: tours
are customized to your preferences, and if
you are staying locally there is a pick-up and
drop-off service available.
If golf is your game, there are over 20
courses scattered throughout Essex County.
But even if you don’t know a nine iron from a
tire iron, consider a stop at Rochester Place,
a golf club and resort near Belle River. Chef
Johnny Oran is in charge of the kitchen at
the Parkside Grille. A Stratford Chef School
alumnus, Oran has paid his dues in kitchens
across the country, including Cowbell
and Splendido in Toronto, and Montreal’s
exclusive 357c. Besides the expected burgers,
sweet potato fries, and the local must-serve
Lake Erie perch, Chef indulges his creativity
with such items as grilled lamb kefta (with
lamb sourced from local Ewe Dell Family
Farm), and a stunningly delicious roasted
head of cauliflower stuffed with housemade
mozzarella, tahini, pomegranate, and
toasted almonds (for sharing, of course).
Stop at Mettawas Station if you’re near
Kingsville when it’s time for a meal. In
1899 Hiram Walker — whisky magnate,
entrepreneur, philanthropist, and sometime
railroad builder — commissioned the station
to facilitate the travel of guests to his resort
hotel, The Mettawas (described by a Windsor
newspaper of the time as “a magnificent
pile of buildings.”). The hotel no longer
exists, but the station has been lovingly

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 31
Chef Johnny Oran’s grilled fish platter, at the Parkside
Grille, Rochester Place.
restored by the Essex Region Conservation
Authority. In 2008, Chef Anthony DelBrocco
and his wife Janet converted this landmark
into Mettawas Italian Mediterranean Grill.
As the name suggests, the cuisine has a
definite Mediterranean flavour. The menu
offers a tasty array of appetizers, salads,
pastas, pizzas and entrées, including various
antipasti, spinach gorgonzola and apple
salad, lobster ravioli, and rack of lamb. There
are gluten-free options available. Expect
friendly, professional service from the
DelBroccos and their staff.
This vibrant region offers plenty for the
avid road tripper. There are historical sites,
farmgates and farmers’ markets (there’s
a night market in Windsor’s historic
Walkerville neighbourhood), galleries
and theatres, festivals and family-oriented
activities. And lots of natural beauty to enjoy,
from the Ojibway Nature Centre in Windsor,
to the Jack Miner Migratory Bird Sanctuary
in Kingsville, to Point Pelee National Park
and Pelee Island.
My favourite memories of my Essex
County road trip? A patio afternoon of
sunshine, and wine, conversation and
laughter. A stroll on a sandy beach, to the
very point of Point Pelee. Cycling along a
country road under blue skies, past farms
and vineyards. A late-night, winding-down
glass of wine on the porch, with the scent of
flowers and fresh-cut grass on the breeze,
and the sound of the waterfall in the garden
pond, lulling me towards dreamland.
The writer was a guest of Tourism Windsor Essex Pelee Island
and the Wine Markerting Association of Ontario. They did not
review or approve the story.
Tourism Windsor Essex Pelee Island visitwindsoressex.com
Wine Country Ontario winecountryontario.ca
Iron Kettle Bed & Breakfast ironkettlebb.com
Parkside Grille rochesterplace.com/parkside-grille
Mettawas Mettawas Italian Mediterranean Grill
mettawasstation.com
Farm Dog Cycles Bike Ride farmdogcycles.com
Pelee National Park pc.gc.ca
CECILIA BUY likes discovering new places, meeting new
people, and life in the slow lane.
Mettawas Italian Mediterranean Grill,
by the Chrysler Greenway in Kingsville

Main Street, Port Stanley
(519)782-3388
www.kettlecreekinn.com
information@kettlecreekinn.com
Picture yourself...
Relaxing on our patio,
Enjoying Lunch, Dinner or a snack,
Staying the evening in a room or suite!

PortStanley
FestivalTheatre
5
2 01
SEA S O N
Local Country
Honey & Maple Syrup
OPEN: 11am – 5pm
205 Main Street, Port Stanley
519-782-3006
www.telegraphhouse.com
“Old Wives’ Tales”
By Kevin Riordan
July 8th to August 1st
“The Drawer Boy”
By Michael Healey
August 5th to August 22nd
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By Allana Harkin
August 26th to September 19th
COME PLAY
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buds@steedandcompany.com
Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4
Mother’s Day through Christmas
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Enjoy our Annual
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CALL 519.782.4353 or
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THANK YOU TO OUR SEASON SPONSORS

34 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
The BUZZ ... new and notable
On Monday, June 15, a thousand Londoners spent
their lunch hour at Budweiser Gardens enjoying
samples from over thirty local restaurants,
caterers and food & beverage suppliers. The
3rd annual Signatures event sold out, and over $26,000 was
raised for the Parkinson Society of Southwestern Ontario
to support programs and services for those affected by
Parkinson’s. Mark your calendars now for next year’s event,
in June.
Heritage London Foundation presents their Annual,
Unforgettable, Outdoor Roaring Twenties Bash at the Elsie
Perrin Williams Estate on July 10. Mix, mingle, play croquet,
bid on the silent auction, and then enjoy the Gatsby Gala
Dinner menu. www.elsieperrinwilliamsestate.ca/event/
annual-gatsby-gala/
The Run the District Race Series at Western Fair District
appeals to all ages and all abilities. Next race day is Sunday,
July 19: I run, you run, we all run for ice cream! It’s a cool
course for cone-heads of all-ages, rewarding runners with
their favourite flavours along the way —hot fudge, sprinkles
and pralines atop scoops of cookies and cream, dark chocolate
and strawberry sorbet at pit stops along the course. All
pledge money collected will go to Ronald McDonald House
SWO. www.runthedistrict.ca/run-for-icecream/
The Annual London Ribfest returns to Victoria Park on the
weekend of Civic Holiday (July 30 – August 3). Sample from
the many food vendors offering delicious ribs and numerous
other items, and enjoy the rides and entertainment.
London’s annual celebration of craft beer will once again bring
you a great day of craft beers, fresh food, beer seminars and
cooking classes. Forest City Beer Fest will be held at Covent
Garden Market on August 15th. Admission is free.
Ron Benner roasts corn for all at his garden installation As
the Crow Flies. Part sculpture, part installation and part
performance, the 9th Annual Corn Roast will feature Benner’s
roving corn-roasting wagon Maiz Barbacoa. The site-specific
piece features a pond, garden and corn plants surrounded
by black and white laminated photographs that trace the
militarization of food and society, as well as themes of
Over 40 items
to choose from!
Featuring Gluten-free
Spinach Cranberry Burgers,
Marinated Tenderloins,
Succulent Breast Kabobs,
Gluten-free Turkey Sausage ...
Great Tasting Wholesome Turkey Since 1948
HAYTER’S RETAIL STORE
Open 7 Days a Week
37451 Dashwood Rd., Dashwood
519-237-3561
www.haytersfarm.com
2012

№ 54 | July/August 2015
activism, environmentalism and global food politics. Musician
Frank Ridsdale will entertain guests with his resolute songs
of political misdemeanours covering a wide geographical
range from the Port Stanley harbour to Latin American
revolutionary songs. Sunday, August 23, 1:00 to 4:00 pm at
Wolf Sculpture Garden at Museum London.
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
August 14th, in conjunction with Beer Fest, enjoy a
‘Barhopping Into History’ Walking Tour led by local
author Kym Wolfe. Tour starts at Attic Books at 7:15 p.m. and
finishes with a pint at the final stop. $15/person. Details and
registration at www.kymwolfe.com.
James McInnes and Matt McClintock opened Globally
Local in the former Farmer Jack’s on Colonel Talbot Road. This
is one of three London pick-up locations. The organic grocery
store offers deliveries in London and five other Southwestern
Ontario urban centres. Food is sourced from regional farmers
and producers, and there is also a greenhouse operation, set up
by Elijah Richardson. He expects to be offering greenhouse
tomatoes, eggplant, sweet potato, peppers, cucumbers, herbs,
amaranth, tomatillos and many other treats.
The Dirty Martini Supper Club continues to tease with
the promise of a Grand Opening date. The premises at the
corner of Dundas and Talbot, formerly occupied by Villa, will
host “nightlife entertainment with the most unique dining
experience in the city.”
Located at Windermere Manor, the Windermere Café has
a charming patio that is a delightful extension of the café and
is situated in a truly distinctive natural setting. Breeze through
French doors onto the stone floor and you are seated at tables
nestled among tall spruce trees. Renovations to Windermere
Café commence mid-July with a grand opening launch party
towards the end of August. The restaurant is being re-named
Restaurant Ninety-one. www.windermeremanor.com
• FAMILY
FRIENDLY
• Vegetarian
Options
• Takeout
• Catering
• Reservations
Recommended
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant
LUNCH Tuesday–Friday 11am–1pm by reservation
DINNER Tuesday–Sunday 5–10pm • Closed Monday
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com
A Taste of Europe since 1974
Extensive Beer Menu!
The restaurant at Idlewyld Inn & Spa features Wednesday
BBQ Nights, weekly, from 5:30 pm. Join them in the Courtyard
for a delicious night out, featuring a fresh salad bar, a choice
of BBQ’d entrees, and a tempting dessert table. $29.99 pp. Pair
your meal with local craft beer from Railway City Brewing
Co. www.idlewyldinn.com
The 2015 London’s Local Flavour Culinary Guide was
launched at Che Restobar in May. A project by eatdrink
magazine with Tourism London, the guide provides a rich
overview of the city’s breadth of exciting local restaurants,
culinary retailers, and farmers’ markets. The guide goes
out to Ontario Travel Centres, London’s Tourism Information
Centres, and major entry points to the city, such as the
London International Airport, the VIA Rail station, the London
Convention Centre, the Downtown London office, as well as at
dozens of local businesses, libraries and the farmers’ markets.
It’s also available online, with links both on the Tourism
• Private Rooms
• Free Room Rental
• Wi-Fi
• Murder Mysteries
122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)
519-679-9940
Open Daily for Dinner
www.marienbad.ca
Lunch Monday–Saturday

36 www.eatdrink.ca
London website and the eatdrink site. For a view of the guide
and more, go to www.londontourism.ca/culinary
Les Marmitons is a men’s cooking group that meet nine
times a year to cook a tasting menu along with the help of
a local area chef. Approximately 25 to 30 members divide
into teams and cook a 5 course tasting menu under the
guidance of the chef and the assistance of two Fanshawe
College Culinary Arts students. As part of an international
organization founded in Montreal in 1997, there are now 18
Les Marmitons chapters across Canada and the US, with the
London chapter forming in 2010. www.lesmarmitons.org
Your love of all things Italian begins at
№ 54 | July/August 2015
Downtown London
Vanessa and Pete Willis’s Church Key Bistro Pub is a
destination gastro pub with an intimate outdoor courtyard for
alfresco dining. At the ORHMA Awards Gala last month at
the London Convention Centre, server Demar Charlton won
‘People’s Choice - Best Server in London’. www.thechurchkey.ca
The Black Trumpet courtyard garden may be the most
tranquil dining location in London. Chef Scott Wessling has
a contemporary take on international classics, drawing from
local seasonal ingredients to create time-honoured entrees.
The new menu features a superb mini steamship steak (18oz)
and a delicious marrow boat appetizer with ginger infused
forest mushrooms, crispy shiitake confit garlic & crostini.
www.blacktrumpet.ca
Congratulations to The Only on King, with its farm-to-table
philosophy and classic culinary repertoire a master class in
modern comfort cooking, as it celebrates its 8th anniversary.
www.theonlyonking.ca
For thirty two years and counting, Michael’s On The Thames
has been regarded as London’s celebration destination and
for good reason. Consistently good food and excellent service,
makes Michael’s one of London’s iconic dining experiences.
Former general manager Joelle Lees has recently purchased
the landmark restaurant from hospitality industry stalwart
Brian Stewart. In the past year, the restaurant has been
smartly refurbished to create a renewed sense of comfort and
well-being. Consistency has always been the hallmark of the
Michael’s On The Thames experience and will continue under
the ownership of Joelle Lees. www.michaelsonthethames
Inspired by the traditional Parisian wine bar, the new
London Wine Bar will strive to make quality wine
approachable while creating a relaxed and hospitable
atmosphere for their guests. To accompany their wine
selection, they will feature a wide range of cured meats
including prosciutto, smoked sausages, and various smoked
salamis as well as a diverse selection cheeses from local
producers who are dedicated to their craft. For dessert, they
Five Fortune Culture
RESTAURANT
366 Richmond Street at King
www.fivefortuneculture.com
226 667 9873
“Pure
Chinese”
Cuisine
—eatdrink
Open WED to SUN
11am to 10:30pm

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 37
will offer a variety of chocolate products that were created
exclusively for them by Forrat’s Chocolate at the Market.
www.londonwinebar.ca
La Casa’s new dinner menu features a wide range of
fresh vegetarian options including cannelloni di ricotta with
tomato-sherry sauce; woodland mushroom ravioli with thyme
and lemon cream; grilled-seasonal vegetable pizza with
roasted garlic pesto; as well as some Italian classics such as
veal osso bucco on strachetti pasta and chicken picatta with
lemon-caper sauce. www.lacasaristorante.com
Forest City Beer Fest is Downtown London’s annual
celebration of craft beer. The event is free to the public
and takes place Saturday, August 15th at Covent Garden
Market. Forest City Beer Fest invites you to discover your new
favourite beer and enjoy the company of friends on Rotary
Square. Over 20 brewers and Ontario cider producers will be
in attendance, including local favourites Forked River and
London Brewing Co-Op. Food stands and food trucks are part
of the mix as well. www.ForestCityBeerFest.com
On August 1st, celebrate Food Day Canada at the Covent
Garden Farmers’ Market. You can expect a wide variety
of local meat choices — bison burgers, beef burgers, lamb
sausages, and elk frankfurters. Top it all off with fresh local
corn, tomatoes, organic lemonade, and ice-cream topped
with blueberries and a lavender cookie. All that for only $5
per person!
Stratford...
Stratford Summer Music presents Musical Brunches at
The Prune Restaurant. Among the most beautiful of Johann
Sebastian Bach’s works for solo instruments are his three
Partitas and three Sonatas for solo violin. Written early in the
18th century, these glorious selections will be the musical
assortment offered during the sixth season of Stratford
Summer Music Weekend Brunches in July and August, moving
this year to The Prune Restaurant, featuring three celebrated
violinists from the Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra. www.
stratfordsummermusic.ca
Choose from three diverse culinary tours offered mornings
and afternoons: A Very Tasty Trek leads you beyond the
tracks to hidden gems featuring bold breads, baking, cheeses,
teas and gourmet products. Fabulous Food and Great
Gadgets blends heavenly hors d’oeuvre and refreshment
pairings with the finest kitchenwares. Satisfy your hunger, fill
your pantry and finish with an original cocktail in a relaxed
outdoor setting. Savoury Eats and Tasty Treats explores
diverse sweet and savoury tastes at unique downtown
shops. Meet the artisans who inspire with their passion and
innovative edibles. www.flavoursofstratford.ca
Patio bar
now open
5-5-5 PATIO
SPECIALS
130 King Street at Covent Garden Market Square
519-24-9184 • www.olivertwists.ca

38 www.eatdrink.ca
We want your
BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events
that you’d like people to know about?
eatdrink has thousands of readers across
Southwestern Ontario
Get in touch with us at
editor@eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
Stroll scenic trails for delicious wild edibles and mushrooms.
Learn how to identify, harvest and prepare nature’s bounty
with conservation and sustainability in mind while Weekend
Foraging with Peter Blush. www.pucksplenty.com
Join a series of accredited speakers for lively intellectual
seminars and a delectable buffet lunch exploring each play
and musical in the 2015 season, at Stratford Festival Table
Talks. www.stratfordfestival.ca
Revival House presents a cabaret series, with renowned
opera singer Rebecca Caine (July 25), the one and only
Carole Pope (Aug 8), a Newfoundland Jazz Ceilidh (Aug
22), and former Nylon, Micah Barnes & friends (Aug 29).
www.stratfordsummermusic.ca
Bluegrass Brunch: On the last Sunday of July and August,
Stratford’s Local Community Food Centre will offer a tasty
and hearty plate of brunch prepared by their in-house chef
and often featuring many local ingredients, coffee from To
Bean or Not To Bean, and live tunes from the bluegrass
band The Blurry Pickers! There’s always lots of fun activities
for the kids in the greenhouse and Loco Fields will host a
market stand every month so be sure to take home some veg!
$6 for adults and $3 for children under 6 www.thelocalcfc.org/
www.davidsbistro.ca
ALWAYS
a 3-course
prix fixe menu
option
432 Richmond St.
at Carling • London
Canada Food Day BBQ: On August 1st, Canada Food Day
is a national day of celebration of the great food scene in
Canada! It celebrates culinary excellence in our restaurants
and the produce from our countrysides. Everyone should have
access to great food today! Come on by the Local CFC garden
for a free BBQ and a cold drink! There’ll be a cash bar, music,
activities for the kids and lots to do in the gardens! www.
thelocalcfc.org/
At Chocolate Barr’s, Derek Barr is making his own gelato
and sorbetto in-house this year for the summer months.
Some of the gelato flavours are traditional, such as vanilla,
dark chocolate mintie and pistachio. But he is creating some
unusual ones like the Embro Barn Burner — with toasted
marshmallow, burnt caramel and Laphroaig Scotch, as well as
London’s Celebration Destination
32
Private Rooms
for Celebrations
& Meetings
Continental cuisine – with a
contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking.
From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees,
Michael’s makes your celebration an event.
Lunch Weekdays
Dinner 7 Nights a Week
1 York Street
(just West of Ridout)
519-672-0111
2015
MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES
Baby Grand Pianist • Free On-Site Parking
Visit www.michaelsonthethames.com
for Weekly Specials and Theme Nights Info

№ 54 | July/August 2015
a Mocha Espresso. For the sorbetto, Derek has done Lemon,
Mango and Ontario Strawberry. Barr’s has also started to
produce local fruit jellies, with the Ontario Strawberry jellies
avalable now until sold out. Expect a northern Ontario
Blueberry Jellie soon! www.chocolatebarrs.com
“Loaves of Love” Challah Baking Workshop: On August
23, join people of all ages to knead, braid and shape Challah
dough from scratch. Share the gift of Shabbat, warmth
and great taste with those in need. Learn new braiding
techniques and taste a variety of Challahs and dips! Featuring
Ragbbi Moshe and Rivky Goldman of the Rohr Chabad
Centre for Jewish Learning in Waterloo and Chef
Jordan Lassaline of Revel Caffe in Stratford. Presented by
Bradshaws. www.thelocalcfc.org/
Elsewhere in Our Region...
Southern Fried BBQ, the Whole Pig, and Bacon Grilled Cheese
are just some of the bacon dishes to sample at this year’s
Lucan Baconfest, on Saturday July 11. Events run from
10a.m. to 3p.m. at various locations around town. www.
baconfestlucan.ca/
Join the fun at Cooper’s Hawk Vineyard and experience
a celebration of world class music, fine wine, food and
friends. Jazz on the Vine occurs over several different nights
throughout the summer. www.coopershawkvineyards.com
Delicious
519.432.4092
481 Richmond St., London, ON
www.garlicsoflondon.com
LUNCH
DINNER
SUNDAY BRUNCH
Stunning Views
Excellent Food
Ambiance Galore
PATIO
NOW OPEN!
TUES, WED, FRI, SAT, SUN 11am–5pm
THURS 11–9 • Closed MON
Available for Private Events for up to 60
rhinolounge.ca | 519.850.5111
at
MUSEUM
LONDON
421 ridout st.
CAFÉ OPEN
TUES to FRI, 11–4
SUN Brunch, 11–4
Available Evenings for Private Events
theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287

40 www.eatdrink.ca
The Arts and Cookery Bank in West Lorne hosts Guys Night
Out, Episode 3: Thrill Of The Grill, on July 24th. Come for
the fun, the fabulous food and enjoy the incredible diversity
— a spectrum of flavors of single malt scotches. Meet the
local craft brewers. Cook up a storm, catch up on lost time
with good buddies, and enjoy a delicious meal.
www.theartsandcookerybank.com/page/course-sign-up?c=215
On June 10th, ten food trucks from across Southwestern
Ontario served the masses at the Sunset Truckin’ Good
Food event. Over 7,000 people were served throughout the
day with trucks running out of food around 6:00pm, just as
Londonlicious
July 16–Aug 1
a small
island of
tranquility on
Richmond Row
enjoy NEW
summer menus
in our beautiful
courtyard
lunch & dinner
mon–sat
11:30 am–close
523 Richmond St, London www.blacktrumpet.ca
RESERVATIONS: 519-850-1500 | info@blacktrumpet.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
the rain began to fall. This was one in a series of events held
throughout the county, to help meet the growing demand
for food trucks in the region. The next event takes place July
25-26, 2015 at North 42 Degrees Estate Winery.
In 2014, C-K Table was awarded “Event of the Year” by the
Ontario Agricultural Tourism Council. Heading into
its fourth and biggest year, this annual culinary event is
transforming into a year-long dialogue about local food in
Chatham-Kent. The C-K Table team is broadening the scope by
starting with a series of invitation-only dinners throughout
the summer at The Chilled Cork in Chatham, specifically
created for food writers and bloggers to sample and write
about local fare created by local chefs. The fun for the public
starts on August 8 with a Community Corn Roast at the
Portuguese Club in Chatham. The main event kicks off on
September 12 when visitors can partake in a series of micro
events, like farm tours and chef meet & greets, at different
locations throughout Chatham-Kent. On September 13, the
C-K Table Signature Event will continue with an on-farm
dinner hosted at Sharrigan Farm in Jeannette’s Creek. C-K
Table will host a Craft Beer Festival on November 21 at the
newly-renovated The Kent 1874 Events and Convention
Centre. For details on these and other events throughout
the summer, follow C-K Table on Facebook and Twitter @
CK_Table, and visit the website www.cktable.ca.
Feast for Good is a Goderich-based pop-up creating events
that focus on feasting together on all that is good to eat,
good to see, and good to do. Products are small batches of
vegetable soups, baked goods and other treats made from
mainly organic foods sourced as locally as possible. All are
egg- and dairy-free (vegan) and some are gluten-free.
Available at Goderich Farmers’ Market, Goderich Makers
Market, and at the Made in Huron Shop in Clinton.
The century-old building that housed Strathroy Ale House
and Pub has changed hands. Mark Graham opened The
Clocktower Bistro and Inn this May, after considerable
remodelling. www.clocktower-inn.com
www.aromarestaurant.ca
Pasta & Wine
Summer Festival
available until Sept. 10
PASTA ENTRÉE with your choice of
Meat, Fish or Vegetarian
PAIRED WITH THREE tasting-size glasses
of Red, White & Rose Wine
ark’s Square FINISHED with a TEMPTING DESSERT
from our daily selection
Reservations mentioning the
Pasta & Wine Festival are required.
‘Like Us’ on Facebook to enter our draw to WIN
Tickets for Two for a year of Ontario Wine Society
monthly tastings at Aroma and Dinner for 2 every month.
www.facebook.com/Aroma.London
ONLY
$19.95
per person/pt
Available for
Lunch & Dinner
7 Days a Week
See details online for
FREE PARKING after 5pm
717 Richmond St/Piccadilly 519.435.0616

№ 54 | July/August 2015
sixthirtynine restaurant in Woodstock will be closing from
June 22nd - July 7th for renovations to update their dining
room. www.sixthirtynine.com
Ontario’s Southwest brought the region’s food, wine and
beer to the Toronto culinary scene and made a big splash
with its City Fare event on May 30th at Wychwood Barns.
The event featured over 26 beer, wine and culinary partners
from across the region and was attended by over 500 media/
influencers and consumers from the GTA. It has been reported
that the event hashtag #OSWCityFare got over 2.5 million
impressions on Instagram and Twitter.
Local food will be back in a big way this summer, right under
the Bluewater Bridge in Point Edward. Sarnia-Lambton
Business Development Corporation (SLBDC) is the lead
partner in a new Farmers’ Market featuring an enticing
assortment of local products every Thursday evening
from 4-8p.m., beginning June 25th. The Point Edward
Moonlight Farmers’ Market will be located on the service
road, parallel to Michigan Ave. from the Gazebo off Livingston.
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events that you’d
like people to know about? eatdrink has thousands of
readers across Southwestern Ontario. Get in touch with us
at editor@eatdrink.ca
Food Day Canada
Saturday, August 1, 11–12:30
Celebrate Food Day Canada at our farmers’
market! Expect a wide variety of local meat
choices – bison burgers, beef burgers, lamb
sausages, and elk frankfurters! Top it all off with
fresh local corn, tomatoes, organic lemonade,
and ice-cream topped with blueberries and a
lavender cookie. All that for only $5 per person!
See you there for the deal of the year!
Forest City Beer Fest
Saturday, August 15, 3–11pm
Enjoy Downtown London's annual celebration
of craft beer, free to the public, on our Rotary
Square. Discover your new favourite beer, with
over 20 brewers and Ontario cider producers
in attendance, with food stands and food trucks
part of the mix as well. Find full details online at
www.ForestCityBeerFest.com
142 fullarton at richmond

42 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
in the garden
I Wet my Plants, Do You?
Water and Watering: A Gardener's Dilemma
By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN
Water is essential to our life and
to our garden’s success. If you
appreciate fresh potable water
to drink and bathe in, then you
also likely respect this precious resource.
Being frugal in the garden when it comes to
watering is something to think about. We are
not talking about lawns. If you are growing
vegetables you should recognize that you are
producing food at a very low cost and also
with a very low environmental impact. Don’t
skimp when it comes to watering! Vegetables
need water regularly to produce the desired
results. To date, this season has been very
dry and it is the long-range forecast that it
will likely continue. This means that your
garden will need water!
It is the case for any garden, but
especially for those vegetables grown in
containers — you don’t want to let them
dry out! Containers are very popular
currently, and whether for styling your
garden, for the practicality of space, or for
maximizing sunlight, containers are a great
option. However, you really have to monitor
moisture daily. This will better ensure a
great harvest.
Growing vegetables from seed is the most
economical way to eat healthily, control
your food source, stay connected to nature
and love summer more! At this time of year
it is still very reasonable to start some new
vegetables, including radishes and beans.
Because these plants mature in 30 days or
so, it’s great to re-seed now for early and
late fall harvest.
Watering your garden doesn’t mean just
turning on the sprinkler. Certainly there

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 43
may be times when this is necessary, but
watering more selectively is preferred and
very enjoyable. Taking the time during
garden season to hand-water your garden
is very rewarding. It’s perhaps the most
time consuming option, as plants should
be deep watered, but this is a good time to
look around and appreciate your hard work.
Watering in the early morning or evening
is such a beautiful time in the
garden. At this time as well, you
might have a trowel in one hand
and a pair of secateurs in your
pocket, and you are casually
weeding, pruning & deadheading
as you go. This daily attention
helps keep on top of many
things, including which crops are
reaching their peak for picking,
so menu planning becomes
second nature. It also provides
information for dealing with
other things like pests or damage
as soon as it occurs and you can
therefore ‘nip it in the bud.’
Many gardeners will only use rain barrels
and believe they are the best environmental
choice. They are a great supplemental water
source and are an important environmental
option. However, you can’t rely on them
unless you have a series of them. Eventually
they run dry and then you need back up.
When growing vegetables, water wisely and
design a system that will work — which
usually means pulling out the hose.
These are some suggestions for watering
your vegetables that will also help produce a
bountiful crop.
From the time of day to the amount of
water that certain varieties require, consider
the life cycle of the plants in your garden.
For example, recent transplants need
frequent watering to accommodate their
shallow, young roots and ease transplant
shock. Daily watering is critical at the time
of flowering and fruit formation. With some
crops like tomatoes, flavour may be lost with
too much watering as fruit ripens, and you
risk cracking the skin.
Plant or group your thirsty plants
together. This also makes watering more
efficient. Lettuces like it lush while herbs
generally like it drier. Any large plants
producing a good amount of fruit or
vegetables need a good amount of water.
Choose your water timing wisely
and stay away from midday. If it is a
cloudy day, that would be fine, but in
direct sun, in midday summer heat,
the water will burn the leaves. As well,
don’t water too late in the day, as
moisture overnight invites disease.
For good vegetable gardening results,
you generally need a 10-12 inch depth
of good, rich loam. Roots for most
vegetables, including root vegetables,
need watering up to a depth of 8 inches.
This is the amount you need to keep
moist to keep your plants the happiest.
Respect local bylaws, plan ahead and
love your watering.
RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own
Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be
found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,
and at various gardening events around the region.

44 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
wine
Wines for Summertime Sipping
“It’s a smile, it’s a kiss. It’s a sip of wine, it’s summertime.”
By GARY KILLOPS
So, what is a summer sipping wine?
The hot summer days call for light
and refreshing wines with crisp
acidity that excites the palate. White
wines such as riesling, sauvignon blanc and
Lillet Blanc are perfect patio or pool-side
sippers.
It’s a rite of passage every summer
around our place that Kenny Chensey’s
“Summertime” song is played good
and loud over our outdoor speakers
as I open a bottle of Lillet Blanc.
Summertime is finally here. Before
the potato salad, corn on the cob and
BBQ’d burgers fill our plates, a glass
of Lillet is a must.
Lillet (pronounced lee-lay)
is an aperitif made just south of
Bordeaux, using 85% sémillon
grapes and 15% liqueurs, fruits and
herbs. It has fresh, lively citrus
flavours, spicy pine resin and
honey notes. Just pour Lillet
Blanc into a glass over ice, add
an orange wedge and serve.
Lillet Blanc is also the
base for a “Vesper Martini”.
Devoted James Bond fans will
recognize this as the drink that Agent
007 ordered in the movie Casino
Royale. Bond gave the bartender the
following instructions “three measures
of Gordon’s gin, one of vodka, half a
measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very
well until it’s ice-cold, then add a thin
slice of lemon peel. Got it?”
Kina Lillet has been reformulated
and is now called Lillet. If you would like to
make your own version of Bond’s Vesper or
perhaps just pour a glass of Lillet over ice
for a summer drink like I do, it’s available
at many LCBO Vintages locations for $17.95
(LCBO product #322297).
Other Recommendations
An easy dinking, crisp wine for summer
time patio sipping is sauvignon
blanc. It’s light and refreshing, with
zesty grapefruit and grassy notes that
quench a summer thirst like no other
wine can.
Sauvignon blanc pairs well with
grilled shrimp and salads, and
is a must-try with pizza topped
with goat cheese. Here are a few
sauvignon blanc suggestions that
are available at the LCBO.
Creekside Backyard Block 2013
Sauvignon Blanc. ($17.95, LCBO
#341792) — Loaded with aromatic
tropical fruit notes and fresh citrus
fruit notes. This is summer in a glass!
Thalia Sauvignon Blanc Vilana
($9.95, LCBO #273490) — Greece offers
some of the best wine values at the LCBO.
This sauvignon blanc, priced under
$10, is the deal of the summer. Crisp
lemon notes with a lingering finish.
Henri Bourgeois Les
Baronnes Sancerre ($24.95,
LCBO# 542548) — This
Vintages Essential offers
classic sauvignon blanc
characteristics. Lemonlime
citrus, green pepper,
gooseberry, grassy,
herbaceous style with lively
acidity and a minerality
backbone. It’s a classic
example of wine from France’s
eastern Loire Valley.
Riesling is the Ideal Summer Wine
Riesling has a bit of a bad reputation. Many
still think of it as a cheap, sweet wine,
perhaps due to Blue Nun, a German riesling

№ 54 | July/August 2015
that was one of the first mass-marketed
sweeter style wines.
Riesling has come a long way since the
1980’s when Blue Nunn was what we sipped
on. Today it is available in many different
styles from dry to semi-sweet to icewine. Its
vibrant acidity and fruity peach, apple and
pear flavours make it an ideal summer wine.
Rieslings from cool climate regions such
as France, Germany and Canada offer the
lively acidity and modest alcohol levels and
are refreshing on hot summer days.
Try these summer sipping rieslings.
Sprucewood Shores 2014 Riesling
(VQA Ontario), ($13.95, LCBO
#326249) — This semi-dry style
riesling offers crisp acidity with
fruity green apple and peach
flavours. Very versatile, this wine
pairs well with barbequed chicken
and spicy foods.
RedStone 2012 Limestone
Vineyard South Riesling (VQA
Twenty Mile Bench), ($18.95,
LCBO #381251) — Redstone
Winery in Beamsville, Ontario is
the latest winery venture of Moray
Tawse, in addition to the winery that bears
his name.
Tawse Winery in Niagara has broken
three national records with its third
consecutive “Canadian Winery of the
Year” award, plus nine gold medals
and total of 32 medals overall in the
prestigious Wine Access Magazine
Canadian Wine Awards.
The Limestone vineyard was
purchased by Tawse in 2012, and it
is where the hand-picked grapes
are from, in this remarkable
riesling.
This is the first Redstone
Riesling released from the winery.
2012 offered a warm growing
season, allowing for optimal
ripeness and exceptional intensity.
Harvest was early to preserve the
lively acidity. Peach, apple and lime fruit with
a kiss of minerality reflect the terroir.
If you buy only one wine this summer, let
this one be it!
GARY KILLOPS is a certified wine geek who loves to talk,
taste and write about wine. He shares his wine tasting notes on
EssexWineReview.com
Introducing ...
BAU
CRIANZA
2010
LCBO release date:
July 11/15 $16.95
“A wine to enjoy,
to share, to relish.”
Tasting Notes
Attractive, bright cherry
colour. Its bouquet
combines a background
of red fruits with hints of
toasted coffee. It is
complex in the mouth
with a high concentration
and persistence; its
passage produces a
slight tannic sensation
on the lips, reaching an
extreme fullness that is
in harmony with its
excellent pleasant finish,
achieving a unique
structure in the mouth.
BAU Crianza has a wonderful blend of
Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano.
BAU – Bodegas Antigua Usanza – is
the heart of La Rioja Alta, the region of
Spain long considered the birthplace
of prestigious wines.
“Good wine is GREAT therapy”
www.barrelhead.ca

46 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
BEER MATTERS
beer matters
Patio Season Ales
From the Farm to the Bistro Table
By THE MALT MONK
It’s finally here. At last — sun, warmth,
patios! I am sooooo ready. Summer
allows the dedicated bierophile
the opportunity to quaff the lighter
offerings of the season in an outdoor setting
— be that at a picnic table in your favourite
park/campsite, on the deck at home, or at
your favourite bier bistro patio. Outdoors,
beer, and food have a natural affinity.
Regular readers know my fondness for
German lagers. Summer patio season is
the perfect time to enjoy this thirst-busting
brew, but I will leave lagers for another
column. My staple for warm seasons is
Keller bier lager, but my staples for the
summer table, BBQ, and patio
are ales — specifically saison
and Kölsch styles.
First let’s discuss the
saison style, and what to look
for in a well-made example.
Saison as a style was the first
true “bottle conditioned”
ale. That is, it is traditionally
consumed from a bottle
rather than a draft pint and
the bottle it’s served in was
used as the final fermentation
vessel. This is why proper
saisons come in a corked champagne type

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 47
bottle — this was the traditional vessel for
finishing this “farm house” brew. Saison
originated in the farming districts of Wallonia
(Franco-Belgium), and was made in
late fall or early winter, to ferment in the cool
winter cellar, and to be served to thirsty farm
workers in the hot season.
The style
survived the
ravages of time
and has a new
life in the global
community of
craft brewing. It
has undergone
a wide variety of
interpretations
but the basic
genetic traits
of an authentic
saison are:
pale gold, often
clouded appearance, biscuity maltiness
(pilsner malt), distinctive dryness from
maximum yeast attenuation, peppery/spicy
demeanour, dry hoppy finish (from the
use of Noble, Belgian and Styrian Golding
hops), and a bright effervescent character
(natural carbonation from bottle fermentation).
The leading
global benchmark
for the style is
Dupont Saison,
which we are fortunate
enough to
have imported by
the LCBO (#LCBO
No.11688). Try a
bottle with a chilled
Waldorf chicken
salad and tell me
this doesn’t set off normally understated
food like fireworks.
In the seminal beer-food pairing opus,
The Brewmaster’s Table, Garrett Oliver
states that if he were forced to drink just
one style of beer with food for the rest of his
life it would be a Wallonian saison. I fully
understand why. Saison is a triple whammy
of a brew — light enough to slake a thirst or
to session, and robust enough to satisfy the
palate, and its inherent dry, spicy character
lends itself as a companion to a wide variety
of sturdy to light dishes. I urge you to try a

48 www.eatdrink.ca
saison this summer and work it into your
food pairings. We have a number of good
crafted renditions by local brewers — Oast
House Saison, Nickel Brook Le Paysan
Saison, Beau’s Patio Saison, Amsterdam
Reserve Saison, and Black Oak Summer
Saison. These should all be available either
at your local brewpub or at the LCBO or
the brewery’s store. There is no reason not
saison this season!
Of course my summer imbibing would be
incomplete without a good Kölsch to coun­
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№ 54 | July/August 2015
teract the heat. Kölsch is a German
pale ale (top/warm fermented)
which undergoes a lagering process
(long-term cold conditioning)
and which has an inherent
dry, light, hoppy discernment,
making it perfect for pairing
with BBQ foods, particularly
BBQed sausages (Brats, farmer’s
ring) and grilled kabobs or
chops. Kölsch has its history
in Cologne where you will see
the “Kölschkneipe” (pub) patio
tables filled with stangen (tall
glasses) full of Kölsch, and
fresh wurst dishes. I have written
extensively on the cultural anthropology
of Kölsch, and so will just give a few recommendations,
for those unfamiliar with this
excellent summer quencher. We have a few
local craft-brewed renditions of the Kölsch
style here, and they are well-crafted interpretations,
but nothing really comes close to
the unique flavour and drinkability of a real
Kölsch made in Cologne. We do
see this true Kölsch here occasionally
at the LCBO when they stock
“Gaffel” Kölsch (LCBO#: 167130).
This has all the style requisites —
puffy white cap, clear gold colour,
biscuity malt and light fruit
tones in the aroma, smooth,
grainy flavour with a dry hoppy
finish. Other local Kölsch-style
brews available locally include:
Beau’s Lug Tread Lagered Ale,
Sawdust City’s Gateway Kölsch,
Grand River’s 1913 Kölsch, Kilannan
Kölsch, and Brick Waterloo
Kölsch (seasonal).

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 49
dry finish. High effervescence with a bright
sharp character. A magnificent saison with a
unique herbal flair, definitely a saison in the
vein of Dupont’s reserve.
I paired this with a lamb curry with very
pleasant results.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a
passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in
the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com
Taste o’ the Month
Bush Pilot Brewing “Pengo Pally” Saison
— Pengo Pally is a 6.5% abv herbed saison
LCBO #426734, $9.95/750 ml, and will be
available at the LCBO this summer.
This collaborative designer ale was inspired
by the brewer’s desire to honour Johnny
May, the legendary Inuk bush pilot. In
keeping with the theme of the high Arctic,
this saison is spiced with indigenous
arctic herbs; Labrador tea (Rhododendron
Groenlandicum), and crowberry leaves
(Empetrum Nigrum).
Brewmaster Ryan Morrow, long-time
Bush Pilot brewing collaborator, has
brewed a traditional yet eclectic saison
infused with arctic herbs, which offers an
approachable ale with unique character.
The 750ml champagne bottle decants a
shimmering, hazed pale gold ale to the
glass. Wonderful meringue white cap. Potent
aromas of powdery pale malts and complex
herbal-spice tones with some undertones of
succulent fruits. Rich in dusty biscuit malts
and herbal balance which go to a super
clean, hoppy and exquisitely puckering
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TOP 10
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in Canada

50 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
cookbooks
The Urban Homesteading Cookbook
Forage, Farm, Ferment and Feast for a Better World
By Michelle Catherine Nelson
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
Michelle Catherine Nelson
obtained her PhD in
conservation biology and
studied sustainable agriculture,
but ended up living in a high-rise in
Vancouver. For years she had a plan to ‘one
day’ do something different, to reconcile
her love of city life with her passion for farm
life. Is it possible to grow your own food
when you don’t have even the smallest back
yard? The Urban Homesteading Cookbook;
Forage, Farm, Ferment and Feast for a Better
World says that it definitely is.
Nelson and her “partner in crazy
awesomeness”, Christopher Mull, raised
rabbits and quail in their one bedroom
apartment. These, along with fish, bees and
insects, she calls ‘microlivestock’. Clean,
quiet and easy to care for, they convert
food to calories much more efficiently than
traditional meat animals. Municipal bylaws
will often allow them in the home since they
are considered pets rather than livestock.
Urban Homesteading offers the
adventurous reader many different ways
to source local food. It
introduces us to foraging
for edible plants, fishing,
catching frogs, crayfish and
snails. By learning to identify
invasive species, we can
provide meals for ourselves
while keeping invasive
populations of plants and
animals in check.
If you’re not quite ready
to commit to poultry in the
living room, you can source
sustainable ingredients from
Author Michelle Catherine Nelson.
Photo credit Alison Page
local
suppliers. This
helps to create demand for
small producers dedicated to responsible,
quality food production. Good food,
good karma, good economy. With Urban
Homesteading, you can learn to preserve
these ingredients beyond the usual freezing
and canning to include smoking, drying
and fermenting.
Photographer Alison Page captures the
beauty of nature in the urban environment
and keeps the focus on the ingredients. I
ususally like a lot of photos of
the finished dishes, but this
book is more how-to than
cookbook, and this focus
works well.
I decided to try Seasonal
Fruit Leather as I had both
strawberries and apples
and wanted a change from
applesauce. Since I used a
dehydrator instead of the
oven, I was able to make
several smaller batches. I
tried apples with cinnamon,
strawberries with vanilla
and one batch that I’m
calling Fruit Surprise since

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 51
For the Ultimate Zero-Mile Diet!
Imagine microgreens, lettuce, herbs and vegetables growing in your kitchen year-round.
The Urban Cultivator is a stylish, user-friendly appliance that can be easily added to your
existing kitchen in both free-standing and built-in models. With a pre-programmed
control centre to self-regulate water, light and humidity levels, healthy eating has never
been easier or more accessible. Food this fresh tastes better and has the maximum
nutritional value when harvested just moments before it reaches your plate. Stop in to
our Belgrave showroom to see what’s growing!
Grand
Opening!
40550 Amberley Rd
(Hwy 86), Wingham
August 15, 2015!
39822 Belgrave Road, Belgrave ON
www.eurohomes.net
1-877-543-2437
it included the leftovers from the above and
a pear I needed to use up. All were delicious
and I doubt will last in the cupboard the
several weeks that the recipe suggests.
The recipe for Pickled Quail Eggs looked
so good I couldn’t actually wait to get quail
eggs. I used chicken eggs instead and fussed
with the liquid until I had enough. They will
need to season longer than the smaller quail
eggs so we are trying to be patient before we
eat them.
If you already have some experience with
urban homesteading this book stretches the
boundries of what is possible. If you are new
to the idea, it may seem crazy that people
would keep chickens in the house, but give
it a chance. Take baby steps. Grow some
mint in a pot on the windowsill and use it
to make tea. Bake a loaf of rustic bread. You
never know where it might take you. Maybe
out foraging for blackberries in the park. See
you there!
In addition to a list at the back of the book,
suppliers may be highlighted in the recipes
which use their ingredients. This is done
so well that I wanted to drive to BC to get
hazelnuts and goat’s milk cheese before I
remembered that we can get these here.
I’m looking forward to trying many
more of the Malones’ recipes this summer,
particularly when our own fresh produce
becomes available. In case I haven’t piqued
your interest in this book yet, I have only this
left to say: Bacon Jam. You’re welcome.
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in
London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
The Urban Homesteading Cookbook; Forage, Farm, Ferment and
Feast for a Better World, by Michelle Catherine Nelson, Douglas
& McIntyre, 2015
Recipes and photos on the following pages are courtesy of
Douglas & McIntyre. Recipe photos credit Alison Page

52 www.eatdrink.ca
Pickled Quail Eggs
Pickled quail eggs are perfect for a relaxing evening
or shared conversation with friends over beer. One
rainy fall day, we paired these tangy eggs with a craftbrewed
pumpkin ale, nutty crackers and cranberry
duck pâté. Or you can skewer them onto an olive pick
for a tasty cocktail garnish. They are so delicious that
it’s hard to sit back while the eggs pickle in the brine
— but it’s worth the wait!
2 dozen quail eggs, hard-boiled and peeled (see
sidebar)
12 cloves garlic, peeled
1¼ cup (300 mL) apple cider vinegar
½ cup (120 mL) white vinegar
½ cup (120 mL) white wine (Riesling is my pick!)
1 tsp (5 mL) coarse salt
1 bay leaf
10 cloves
½ tsp (2.5 mL) turmeric
½ tsp (2.5 mL) paprika
½ tsp (2.5 mL) whole peppercorns
1 Place hard-boiled, peeled quail eggs and peeled
garlic cloves in a 4-cup (1-L) glass canning jar,
leaving at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space at the
top. Bring vinegars and white wine to a simmer
on the stovetop in a stainless steel pot. Add salt
and spices and simmer for 5 minutes.
2 Warm the canning jar by running the outside
under hot water for 30 seconds to prevent the
glass from cracking. Pour hot liquid into jar
№ 54 | July/August 2015
over eggs and garlic so eggs are completely
submerged. Screw on lid and allow the eggs to
season for 1 to 2 weeks in the refrigerator before
eating.Pickled eggs will keep in the refrigerator
for up to 3 months.
Makes 2 dozen pickled quail eggs
Hard-Boiled Quail Eggs
Fresh hard-boiled eggs can be hard to peel, especially
quail eggs. For best results, follow these directions.
1 Make a pinhole in the large end of the raw egg
(this is where the air sac is located). Place eggs in
a single layer in a saucepan and cover with about
1 inch (2.5 cm) of cold water. Place the lid on the
pan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and
let sit with the cover on for 10 minutes. Remove
the eggs from the hot water (leaving water in pot)
and put in a bath of ice water for 1 minute.
2 While the eggs are in the ice bath, reheat the
water to a simmer. After 1 minute of cold, place
the eggs in simmering water for only 10 seconds.
This will heat up and expand the shell away from
the cold egg inside. Crack the shell from the
large end where the pinhole was made. Gently
roll the egg between your hands to crack and
loosen the shell all over before starting to peel
under cold, running water.

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 53
Seasonal Fruit Leather
Making this fruit leather fills the kitchen with the sweet smell of your summer or
fall harvest simmering on the stove. Store these tasty, nutritious treats all the
way into winter — if you can resist them for that long.
8 cups (2 L) fruit, such as berries, apples, pears, peaches, plums
1 cup (250 mL) water
Sugar to taste
Lemon juice to taste
Spices, such as cinnamon or vanilla
1 Rinse the fruit and remove any branches and leaves. Chop and
remove pits and seeds.
2 In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring fruit and water to a simmer. Reduce heat,
cover and let simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the fruit has softened. Uncover and mash
the fruit in the pan. Taste and add sugar and lemon juice if necessary. Add sugar 1 Tbsp
(15 mL) at a time and lemon juice 1 tsp (5 mL) at a time. Add any spices that go well
with the fruit you are using. Simmer until fruit mixture has started to thicken (about 5
to 10 minutes).
3 Purée the mixture in a food
processor. Taste again and
adjust sugar, lemon juice or
spices. Pour the mixture into a
large baking sheet with a rim
to a thickness of 1/8 to ¼ inch
(0.13–0.6 cm).
4 Preheat the oven to its lowest
setting (around 140F/60C).
Place the baking sheet in the
oven. For conventional ovens,
prop the door open an inch
(2.5 cm) or so to allow airflow.
If you have a convection oven,
use the convection setting as it
will dry the fruit leather faster.
No need to prop oven if you
have a convection oven, which
will circulate air inside by itself.
5 Let the fruit leather dry in the
oven until it no longer runs
when you lift the pan and a
knife doesn’t slide into it easily.
This will take anywhere from 8
to 24 hours.
6 Peel the fruit leather off the
baking sheet. Cut into strips
and roll up in parchment paper.
7 Store in airtight containers
(such as glass jars) in the
cupboard for several weeks or
in the freezer for a year or more.
Makes about 24 strips

54 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
BEER MATTERS
on the boards
Developing Music Theatre Artists
Musical Theatre on the Thames comes to London
By RICK YOUNG
Musical Theatre on the Thames is
a new summer training program
for aspiring performers aged 18
to 30 years old. It was launched
in January, and the inaugural season in
London begins July 6.
Artistic Directors and founders Amelia
Pipher Cayne and Jackie Short say it’s an
idea long overdue. “We wanted to fill a niche
that was under-represented in Canada:
professional development for music theatre
artists,” says the mother and daughter
team. “There are many summer intensive
programs for students of opera, but none
for music theatre of the same calibre. Our
ultimate goal for the program is to provide
enriching and meaningful training for the
developing music theatre artist.”
The two women bring impressive credentials
to the program. Short is a professor of
voice with the Don Wright Faculty of Music
and has worked at the university for 14 years.
Prior to teaching, she had a successful international
opera career. Pipher Cayne is a music
director and arts educator who received her
training at the
prestigious 5th
Avenue Theatre
in Seattle. She
now works at
Bravo Academy
for the Performing
Arts in
Toronto.
Offered
on-campus
in affiliation
with Western
University’s
Don Wright
Faculty of
Music, MToT
will be putting
participants through
their paces in two programs — a three-week
Full Show Program culminating in public
performances of the Broadway musical Little
Women based on Louisa May Alcott’s novel,
and an Apprenticeship Program for aspiring
music and stage directors.
“This year we are offering the Full Show
Program and Apprenticeship programs
simultaneously. The Full Show Program
is ideal for the musical theatre artist who
is about to embark on their career. Daily
program activities include group classes,
individual coaching in voice, acting and
Alexander technique, rehearsals for our
show Little Women, and participation in
guest master-classes,” says Pipher Cayne.
“It is truly an all-day intense program. The
Apprenticeship Program is designed to give
aspiring directors, music directors and other
theatre professionals hands-on training in
their field. They will shadow professional
directors and music directors and learn
directly from them. They will also be given
responsibilities and an assistant title to add
to their resume.”
Amelia Pipher Cayne (left), and Jackie Short, Artistic Directors
and founders of Musical Theatre on the Thames

№ 54 | July/August 2015
An impressive faculty, including director
Michael Cavanagh, music director Floydd
Ricketts, and vocal coaches Paul Digout
and Eileen Smith, has been assembled to
deliver the program, with visiting specialists
like Susan Eichhorn Young from NYC
and Melissa Bencic from Toronto offering
master-classes.
“We had a fabulous round of auditions in
Toronto and London. Most participants are
from southern Ontario, with a few from outof-province.
We also had numerous online
submissions on YouTube and the like,” says
Pipher Cayne. “We are thrilled to announce
that we have one music direction apprentice
and a stage direction apprentice. The
majority of our participants are female and
in their early-mid-twenties. We have a few
special participants who are just graduating
high school this June. Most participants are
currently pursuing or have completed postsecondary
education.”
Little Women is the perfect choice for
MToT, says Pipher Cayne. “We chose
Little Women as our inaugural production
because of the quality of musicianship
required, the predominantly female roles
and the popularity of the show and story.
Performances are Friday July 24, Saturday
July 25 and Sunday July 26 at the Paul
Davenport Theatre and tickets are free. We
look forward to bringing this exceptional
cast and show to the community,” she says.
Summer Theatre
Summer theatre companies are now in
full swing and all are well within driving
distance of London, and perfect for daytrips.
Artistic Director Alex Mustakas says
Huron Country Playhouse’s 2015 season
is “full of magical moments, complete with
Broadway blockbusters, heartwarming
comedies, nostalgic musical tributes, and
lots of family fun.”
In July and August, audiences can catch
a trio of musical theatre productions on the
Mainstage including the acclaimed Chicago,
Footloose and Legends of Rock ‘n’ Roll. At
Huron Country Playhouse II there will be
two comedies, Sexy Laundry, Last Chance
Romance, and, for the whole family, Snow
White: The Panto, complete with musical
numbers, slapstick comedy, and lots of audience
participation. www.draytonentertainment.com
Farther north, the Blyth Festival carries on
its mandate of producing original Canadian
plays with five offerings, including the world
premieres of The Wilberforce Hotel and Fury.
Other plays are Seeds, Mary’s Wedding, and
Edna’s Rural Supper. www.blythfestival.com.
At Petrolia’s Victoria Theatre, audiences
can enjoy From The Heart: Women of Country,
a tribute to country music stars like Patsy
Cline, Dolly Parton, Carrie Underwood and
Shania Twain, July 7–26, Norm Foster’s Outlaw,
August 4–16, and I Love A Piano, August 19–30,
featuring Mark Payne, the theatre’s musical
director. www.thevpp.ca
Port Stanley Festival Theatre’s 2015
Season, previewed in my May/June column,
stages three new shows in July and August.
www.portstanleytheatre.ca
And, of course, the Stratford Festival
continues throughout the summer. www.
stratfordfestival.ca
RICK YOUNG, whose work has been published in local,
regional and national print and online publications, was the
Managing Editor, Publisher and founder of The Beat Magazine, an
independent London arts magazine, from 2009 to 2014.

56 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
sound bites
A Taste of Festival Season
By NICOLE LAIDLER
So much music. So little space. That’s
always my dilemma when summer
festival season rolls around. This
year is no exception...
For many Londoners, summer is
synonymous with TD Sunfest (July 9–12), a
free celebration of world music and culture
that drew more than 250,000 people to
Victoria Park
last year. What
began on an
unseasonably
chilly night
in 1995 has
become one
of Canada’s
preeminent music festivals, attracting fans
from as far away as Detroit and Chicago,
says long-time festival communications
coordinator, Brian Hannigan. “A whole
generation has now grown up with Sunfest,”
he notes. “People who get a taste of the
Gina Farrugia
Sunfest vibe often become fans for life, even
if that loyalty requires a cross-country trek
to attend.”
This year’s performance showcase features
more than 35 world and jazz artists from as
far away as Morocco, Spain, Argentina and
Senegal, as well as a diverse line up of food
vendors and artisans. Hannigan’s top-three
musical picks
include the
Ukrainian folkpunk
quartet
DakhaBrakha,
the
internationallyrenowned
Afro-
Cuban All Stars, and Paulo Flores from Angola.
“He is one of the main exponents of Angolan
music, and we already have busloads of
Angolan expatriates from Toronto who have
made a Sunfest date.” www.sunfest.on.ca
Home County Music & Art Festival is
another popular summer tradition. Now
in its 42nd year, the festival takes place
July 17–19 in Victoria Park. Canadian
songstress Sarah Slean headlines
Friday evening (with MC
astronaut Colonel Chris
Hadfield), while The
Leahys In Song headline
on Saturday. The
MainStage schedule also
includes performances
by Martha Wainwright,
Grapes of Wrath,
Skydiggers and Garnet
Rogers.
Home County artistic
director Darin Addison
describes Home County as “a
Canadian folk/roots festival.” The genre now
covers a diverse range of sounds, he says.
“This year’s lineup reflects musical diversity
from right across Canada with performers
from Victoria and Vancouver to Halifax and
Charlottetown. Local music is also well
represented.”
Home County is equally
well-known for its juried
craft show, featuring a
wide selection of work
by Canadian artisans.
Admission to the
festival is by a suggested
donation of $5.
www.homecounty.ca
Classical music lovers are
not forgotten this summer,
with Stratford Summer Music
drumming up six-weeks of free and
paid musical fun, July 20–August 30.
The festival’s 15th anniversary season

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 57
BACH MUSICAL BRUNCHES
Saturdays and Sundays from July 25 to August 30 at The Prune Restaurant
Featuring Tafelmusik’s Aisslinn Nosky, Julia Wedman and Cristina
Zacharias playing a selection of Partitas and Sonatas for solo violin.
season sponsor
Reservations 519.271.5052
stratfordsummermusic.ca
brings more than 100 concerts and events
to venues in and around Stratford. A brief
list of highlights includes a joint concert
by the National Youth Orchestra of Canada,
Youth Orchestra of the Americas and
L’Orchestre Francophonie, the return
of renowned Canadian tenor Ben Heppner
as the special guest of the Grammy
award-winning ensemble, The Blind Boys
of Alabama,
and a dawn
performance
of music by
Canadian
composer
R. Murray
Schafer on
Tom Patterson
Island. Also
planned are five weeks of free outdoor
performances on the floating MusicBarge
and a sing-along screening of The Sound of
Music. www.stratfordsummermusic.ca
The Bach Music Festival of Canada brings
Bach, and beyond, to Exeter and South
Huron in mid-July. The celebration of music
opens with Spanish pianist Leopoldo Erice
performing Bach’s Goldberg Variations (July
13) and continues the following evening
when the Barn Dance Historical Society
present a foot-stompin’ evening with
special guests Canadian country music icon
Larry Mercey and 17-year-old singing and
yodelling sensation Naomi Bristow.
Reverb Brass put their contemporary spin
on Bach (July 15), while the Bach Festival
Chamber Choir performs a more traditional
program of Canadian choral favourites (July
16). Participants in the festival’s first Youth
Arts Program showcase their talents before
this year’s festival wraps up with a gala
performance of Bach’s St. Matthew’s Passion.
www.bachfestival.ca
The Summer
Sunset Sounds
series returns to
Grand Bend’s
Main Beach
(Sundays, July
5–September 7).
This year’s line-up
brings everything
from opera to the blues to the popular Lake
Huron vacation spot, including a return

№ 54 | July/August 2015
performance in August by up-and-coming
Windsor trio The Walkervilles.
“We wanted to encourage people to stretch
their weekend, and to bring the locals back to
our beach front,” says series organizer Glen
Baillie. The free concerts run every Sunday
evening, from 7 p.m. until dark.
Last year, the series attracted a good mix
of residents and holiday-makers, Baillie says.
It was such a
success that
the local
Rotary Club
has already
drawn up
plans to
build a
permanent
stage on the beach for 2016.
www.grandbendtourism.com/events-2/summersunsetsounds
And for those of you who love summer
musical theatre but can’t leave town, C2 Entertainment’s
Colin Stewart and Chris McHarge
are bringing the magic here, producing three
shows at the London Convention Centre. The
Summerstock Theatre performances include
Memories of Rock and Roll: The Alan Freed
Story (July 15–18), Johnny and June: A Love
Story (July 29–August 1) and Vegas Knights
(August 12–15).
“We’ve been selling our shows across
North
America and
Europe for 13
years,” says
the Londonbased
Stewart.
“Now it’s
time to bring
our summer
theatre to the people here in London.” www.
SummerStock-London.ca
NICOLE LAIDLER has been writing about London’s
cultural scene for more than a decade. See what else she’s been
up to at www.spilledink.ca
Arthur Rowe
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
2015–2016
Saturday September 19
New Orford String Quartet
Wednesday October 21
Chamber Music Society
of Lincoln Centre
Saturday November 21
Arthur Rowe, piano
Friday January 29
Pacifica Quartet
Saturday February 20
Yegor Dyachkov &
Jean Saulnier Duo
Saturday March 19
Toronto Symphony Orchestra
Chamber Soloists
Friday April 8
Pacifica Quartet
Saturday April 30
Janáček: The Diary of One
Who Disappeared
Krisztina Szabó, soprano
Benjamin Butterfield, tenor
Arthur Rowe, piano
Thursday May 26
James Ehnes, violin,
& Andrew Armstrong, piano
All concerts at 8 pm at
Wolf Performance Hall
251 Dundas, London
all tickets sales through
Grand Theatre
Box Office
519.672.8800 | grandtheatre.com
jefferyconcerts.com

60 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
books
Foodie Fiction: Beach Reads
Novels about food, kitchens, chefs, and restaurants
Review by DARIN COOK
For those with a sweet tooth for both
confectionary and storytelling,
Chocolat by Joanne
Harris (1999) does not
disappoint. Vianne and Anouk, a
transient mother-daughter pair,
breeze into a French village at
the beginning of Easter season.
Living a gypsy lifestyle inspired
by her own mother, settling down
is not in Vianne’s blood, but she
yearns to cling to a location long
enough to give Anouk some
permanent roots. By opening
a chocolate shop to serve the
village, she hopes to be accepted,
but the locals are surprised by the magic
she is capable of inspiring in their tired
town. Chocolate-making involves plenty
“Food has a power … And though it can’t
save me, it might help me, in some way.” These
are the words of Ginny Selvaggio, the main
character from Jael McHenry’s The
Kitchen Daughter (2011), who
compulsively turns to cooking to
calm herself when thoughts about
the recent death of her parents
become overwhelming. The story
takes on supernatural overtones
when Ginny’s cooking of certain
recipes conjures deceased ancestors
back to her kitchen. How
does it happen and what does it
all mean? She continues cooking,
to unravel the mystery, eventually
realizing that recipes left in a deceased person’s
handwriting, coupled with the aroma
of the cooking, have magical powers to bring
Two high school friends, Yummy and Cass,
are reunited on a family potato farm in Idaho
in All Over Creation (2003) by Ruth Ozeki.
Yummy ran away twenty-five years ago and
returns to reconnect with her estranged friend
and confront the deteriorating health of her
of alchemy that fits with Vianne’s magical
sense of developing relationships with the
townsfolk, not only through her
chocolate, but her radical ideas
and sense of freedom.
Some chapters are told through
the voice of the village priest who
is deeply troubled by his parish’s
weakness during Lent in the
shadow of Vianne’s chocolate
shop. But not everyone in town
shares the priest’s views and the
luxury of self-indulgence may
be just what the quaint village
needs to release it from past
sins. The war between Church
and Chocolate becomes more palpable,
dangerous, and delicious as the story unfolds
over the days leading up to Easter Sunday.
back the dead. The next question is to what
extent should this power be used to pursue
family secrets that have surfaced since the
death of her parents and confront
her meddling sister?
Ginny learns that not only
does she deal with grief by
summoning the flavours of
her favourite foods, but it has
been a coping method for her
undiagnosed autism for years.
She confronts the quirks of
her autism to help develop a
sense of self. Immersing herself
in food and digging through
memories from her childhood,
she continues to search for what normal
means and ultimately decides that it may
not matter.
parents, Lloyd and Momoko. At the same
time, a wandering band of anti-GMO activists
arrive at the farm in their Winnebago, wanting
to learn from Lloyd who has played a pivotal
role in the fight between natural seeds and
engineered seeds in potato farming.

№ 54 | July/August 2015 www.eatdrink.ca 61
Seeds are the heart of the story.
Lloyd’s farm and Momoko’s
garden have thousands of rare
seeds, some of them the last
specimens of their kind on Earth.
They have been quietly nurturing,
preserving, and distributing
these natural treasures that might
have gone extinct if not for their
efforts. GMO plants can take over
natural varieties, causing them
to die out, but the activists and
In Ruth Reichl’s book, Delicious! (2014),
Billie Breslin finds herself in the midst of the
New York food scene, learning everything
she can from the cheese makers, butchers,
chocolatiers, and food magazine
editors she finds herself mingling
with in her new job. Billie was a
culinary prodigy who started a
cake business with her sister at
a young age, and seems to have
quite a tongue for flavour. The
story is infused with flavours and
aromas that only a true gourmand
and long-time restaurant critic,
like Reichl, can relay. Billie fits
right into the foodie lifestyle by
visiting local farms, hunting for
her own mushrooms, serving
real Italian cheeses at a deli, all the while
chiselling out a career as a food writer at an
The food items paired together in Bread
and Butter (2014) by Michelle Wildgen refer
to the living that three brothers
make in the restaurant business
in their Pennsylvania hometown.
The older two, Leo and Britt, are
veterans in the industry with their
joint restaurant, Winesap; they
are supportive, but skeptical, of
younger Harry opening up Stray
in their small town. Working in
tandem, the older brothers have
their respective duties: Britt
learns the dining preferences and
aversions of regular customers at
the front of house; Leo manages
the kitchen crew. They’ve been in business
long enough to know the rhythm of the
kitchen and the flow of service which
Wildgen describes in entertaining detail.
Compared to his brothers, who opened
their restaurant after years of hard work,
farmers come together to propel
their anti-corporate sentiments
throughout the farming
community. Ozeki’s compelling
story is equally about political
and agribusiness issues, and
personal relationships and the
dramas that they spawn. An
apocalyptic, yet touching, climax
pays tribute to the importance of
humans standing up for nature.
upscale food magazine called Delicious!
In the magazine’s office, Billie unearths a
secret stash of mysterious correspondence
originally written to James Beard. The letters
were written during World War
II, by a young girl who is very
mature and astute in her societal
observations; her writing about
wartime food conditions and
rationing juxtaposes the gourmet
world of Delicious! The letters give
a taste of what wartime cooking
was like, conveying that even
though U.S. citizens needed to
sacrifice certain food choices,
it did not stop them from being
creative in the kitchen. Billie
becomes engrossed in reading
and cataloguing the letters and her new project
shrouds other problems in her family life.
Harry is an adventurous experimenter
in the kitchen who sets out to bring new
perspectives of artisanal food
creations to the sheltered
scene of their hometown. Britt
is jealous of Harry’s ease and
randomness at moving into the
business, but the three brothers
share a love of the food industry.
Wildgen writes with an eye
for flavours that her readers
can savour through words,
and she expertly portrays the
competitive and frantic lives of
restaurateurs and chefs, coupled
with a dash of sibling rivalry and
off-duty romance outside the kitchen.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who lives and works in
Chatham-Kent, but keeps himself well-read and well-fed by
visiting the bookstores and restaurants on London.

62 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 54 | July/August 2015
the lighter side
Some Get their Kicks from Propane
By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD
Maybe it’s because I’ve been
binge-watching Mad Men, in
anticipation of the grand finale,
but lately I’ve been stuck in this
retro mode of thinking about food, and noticing
how certain fads and fixtures have quietly
evolved, almost without my realizing it. I’m
turning my attention here to the BBQ, which
seems significant because it corresponds so
eerily to landmarks of my own life.
Hey Kids, Who’s Hungry?
BBQing was a celebratory occasion when
I was young and a time
of excitement; after all,
dinner would be served
outside, almost always made
by Someone’s Dad and offered
with predictable elements of choice:
wieners, hamburgers, or how about just the
bun? Our own BBQ was a round, primary
colour affair in the usual flying saucer shape
and was ritually arranged with lozenges of
charcoal and Someone’s Dad’s wide arc of
lighter fluid in the air. I do recall some dads
sporting a kind of blank-faced Ziggy Stardust
look afterwards but bbqing was a dangerous
job, and after all, eyebrows do grow back …
The Hibachi Grill
The hibachi (literally, the ‘fire bowl’) was a
small sturdy bbq from Japan (think: the love
child of a cast iron fry pan and a waffle iron)
and during the 1970s was many people’s
coming-of-age barbecue. Portable, functional
and at the time wildly impressive (“anyone
for rumaki?”) the hibachi could easily be
set up on, say, your first apartment’s flaking
balcony, to impress a date. Of course, due to
its diminutive size there could only ever be
two steaks at a time (which only added to the
romance). However, if you weren’t paying
attention (let’s say the date went well, and
the weather changed) the end result would
be a rusted out, oily-brown tank. (Not unlike
those cast iron frying pans that everyone
intends to re-season at the cottage). The obvious
solution? Buy another one.
Hey Baby, Check THIS Out!
My experience with a gas BBQ seemed to coincide
with the onset of the Food Channel and
there was a huge learning curve involved. This
was not your parents’ BBQ; there was no threehour
build-up waiting for coals to whiten, and
there was more than hamburgers being flung
onto the flames. Chefs like Bobby Flay and Rob
Rainford taught us about cooking fish, ribs,
lamb and even (gasp!) vegetables on the (new
word alert) ‘grill’. Marinades were applied with
a spear of rosemary, while shrimp snuggled
together on skewers and spiced potatoes were
bundled into a fragrant twist of foil. Interestingly,
all this new background prep seemed
to be relegated to me, along with bringing the
food outside (preferably with a drink
for the cook) to present it to The
Man for its final glory on
The Grill. I didn’t mind this
and the grill marks, perfect
and distinct, remained a mystery
to me.
Paradise Lost and Paradise Regained
Years later when I became Suddenly Single,
bereft and the reluctant owner of a Vermont
Castings BBQ, I found my interest in grilling
was less than zero. The concept intimidated
me and it was yet another thing that I
couldn’t face learning. Enter a most excellent
and assertive friend — who could barbeque.
She showed me how the propane connected,
taught me not to flinch at the subsequent
whoosh of flame, and told me to keep
the lid open during the process. “We have GOT
this!” she laughed and went on to share every
BBQ secret she knew, from cooking bacon outside
to producing grill marks on salmon. Soon,
I was bold, flipping steaks for drop-in dinners,
grilling peaches and prepping souvlaki. And
you know what? I loved it and never looked
back in anger or otherwise.
SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is an award-winning
freelance writer who lives and works in Old South London. She
is also a regular contributor to eatdrink.

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