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128 Build Your Own Electric VehicleWhy Conversion Is BestIn the real world, where time is money, converting an existing internal <strong>com</strong>bustionengine vehicle saves money in terms of large capital investment and a large amount oflabor. By starting with an existing late-model vehicle, the EV converter’s bonus is astructure that <strong>com</strong>es <strong>com</strong>plete with body, chassis, suspension, steering, and brakingsystems—all designed, d<strong>ev</strong>eloped, tested, and safety-proven to work together. Providedthe converted electric vehicle does not greatly exceed the original vehicle’s GVWRoverall weight or GAWR weight per axle specifications, all systems will continue todeliver their pr<strong>ev</strong>ious performance, stability, and handling characteristics. And the EVconverter inherits another body bonus—its bumpers, lights, safety-glazed windows,etc. are already preapproved and tested to meet all safety requirements.There’s still another benefit—you save more money. Automobile junkyards makemoney by buying the whole car (truck, van, etc.) and selling off its pieces for more thanthey paid for the car. When you build (rather than convert) an EV, you are on the otherside of the fence. Unless you bought a <strong>com</strong>plete kit, building from scratch means buyingchassis tubing, angle braces, and sheet stock plus axles/suspension, brakes, steering,bearings/wheels/tires, body/trim/paint, windshield/glass/wipers, lights/electrical,gauges, instruments, dashboard/interior trim/upholstery, etc.—parts that are bound tocost you more à la carte than buying them already manufactured and installed in a<strong>com</strong>pleted vehicle.The Other Side of ConversionWhat’s the downside? It’s likely that any conversion vehicle you choose will not bestreamlined like a soapbox derby racer. It will be a lot heavier than you’d like it, andhave tires designed for traction rather than low rolling resistance. You do the best youcan in these departments depending on your end-use goals: EV dragster, <strong>com</strong>muter, orhighway flyer.It’s equally likely your conversion vehicle <strong>com</strong>es with a lot of parts you no longerneed: internal <strong>com</strong>bustion engine and mounts, and its fuel, exhaust, emission control,ignition, starter, and cooling/heating systems. These you remove and, if possible, sell.Then you have additional conversion vehicle <strong>com</strong>ponents that you might wish tochange or upgrade for better performance, such as drivetrain, wheels/tires, brakes,steering, and battery/low voltage accessory electrical system. On these just do whatmakes sense.How to Get the Best DealThere are a number of trends that help you to get into your EV conversion at the bestpossible price, but you still have to do the shopping. Shopping for your EV chassis is nodifferent from buying any vehicle in general. Put your boots on. Grab a good book onbuying new or used cars to help you. Just remember not to divulge your true intentionswhile bargaining, so you can entertain scenarios like this: When the salesperson says,“Well, to be honest, only two of its four cylinders are working,” you say, “No problem.How much will you knock off the price?” Or the ideal situation: “Frankly, that’s thecleanest model on the lot but its engine doesn’t work,” and you say, “No problem. Letme take it off your hands for $100.” Your best deal will be when finding exactly thenonworking “lemon” that someone wants to sell—specifically, a lemon in the enginedepartment. If you find a $5,000 vehicle that doesn’t run because of an engine problem

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