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Chapter 5: Chassis and Design 129(but everything else works okay), you can pick it up for a fraction of its value and savenearly the entire cost of conversion. Seek these deals out; they can save you a substantialamount of money.Specific vehicle characteristics aside, what’s the best-vintage vehicle forconversion in terms of cost? As a rule of thumb, used is better than new, but not tooused. While older is better in terms of lower cost, you lose a lot of the more recentvehicle safety features if you go too far back. If you go back further than 10 to 15years, you begin getting into body deterioration and mechanical high mileageproblem territory. And if you go back to the classics—the 1960s and earlier vintagemodels—the price starts going up again. But several important trends are working inthe EV converter’s benefit.Late-Model Used Vehicles (Late 1980s and Onward)These late-model vehicles make ideal EV conversions. Not only are they available at alower price than new vehicles with all the depreciation worked out, but vehicles with20,000 to 50,000 miles on the odometer are better for EV converters because vehicledrivetrains, brakes, and wheels/tires generate less friction (burrs and ridges are worndown, shoes no longer drag and seals are seated, etc.) and roll/turn more easily.Here are some options to look for:• Stripped-Down, Late-Model Used Vehicles—These are an even better deal.Almost everyone wants the deluxe, V-8, automatic transmission, powereverythingmodel. You, on the other hand, are interested in a straight stick,4-cylinder, no-frills model that nobody wants. The salesperson will fall all overhimself/herself trying to help you. Try to keep composed. And don’t say whatit’s for until you’ve finished the deal.• Lightweight, Early 1980s, 4-Cylinder Cars/Trucks—These represent problemsales for used-auto dealers and are frequently discounted just to move them.Surprise the salesperson who sold you that 4-cylinder lemon—visit next monthin your fire-breathing 120-volt EV conversion.• Older Lightweight Diesel or Rotary Cars/Trucks—These also representproblem sales for used-auto dealers because potential buyers are unsure ofengine repairability and parts. With current owners, it’s more likely they havejust gone out of favor. In either case, these represent a buying opportunity foryou.• Cars/trucks with Blown Engines or No Engines at All—These are a realproblem to move for any owner but a gift for you. It’s a marriage made inheaven and you can usually call the terms. Scan the newspapers for thesedeals.Avoid the Real JunkWhile late-model, nonrunning bargains are great, avoid the problem situations. Avoidbuying off-brand, too old, abused, dirty, or rusty chassis. The parts and labor that youhave to add to them to bring them up to the level of normal used models makes themno bargain. The salesperson might offer you that used 1957 Mingus for only $50, butwhere do you get the parts for it?