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Schriften zu Genetischen Ressourcen - Genres

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M. CHAUVET<br />

for collecting, only Spain seems to maintain a commercial production of pignons, which<br />

obtain a high price. After having had the opportunity to observe the different forms of<br />

pignons worldwide, I discovered that most of the product we see in our supermarkets<br />

comes from China, and originates from Pinus koraiensis. Another source are the Himalayas<br />

and Kashmir (marketed by Pakistan) with Pinus gerardiana. I assume that<br />

both species are considered interchangeable, because I found the Chinese product in<br />

an Indian shop, and the Pakistani one in a Chinese supermarket, and both had been<br />

imported by the same company.<br />

This “small” observation is quite funny, because our authorities are nervous about<br />

“traceability” and wish to impose strict regulations to “novel food”. In this case, we have<br />

three different species of Pinus, and they do not even belong to the same section of the<br />

genus Pinus. So, they could perfectly have distinct properties, worth analysing. But who<br />

has ever noticed that?<br />

Another example is rocket. In Italy, Diplotaxis tenuifolia has partly replaced Eruca vesicaria<br />

as a salad. They are sometimes distinguished as ruchetta vs. rucola on the markets<br />

of Rome. Botanists can identify them readily even in a salad bowl, because Diplotaxis<br />

has thicker and bluish leaves, with a narrow terminal lobe, whereas Eruca has<br />

bright green leaves with a large round terminal lobe. Diplotaxis tenuifolia is a wellknown<br />

wild salad, but it seems that it has been cultivated in Italy only for a couple of<br />

decades. As far as I know, no book mentions this fact. One reason for this change may<br />

be that Eruca leaves wilt rapidly, and have a shorter shelf life than Diplotaxis.<br />

The growing market of exotic plant products<br />

Due to the migrations of ‘boat people’ in the 1980’s, Paris now has its Chinatown (13 th<br />

arrondissement), with big supermarkets and a well-organised importation and distribution<br />

system. Chinese companies tend to control most of the French market of exotic and<br />

ethnic produce. Paris also has an Indian quarter (near Gare du Nord and passage<br />

Brady), an African quarter (near Metro Château Rouge) and scattered Caribbean and<br />

Réunion shops, not speaking of less exotic shops from the Mediterranean area.<br />

A similar situation is to be found in most European countries, the ethnic groups concerned<br />

varying according to the particular historical links of each country (Pakistanis<br />

and Caribbeans for Great-Britain, Indonesians for the Netherlands, Turks for Germany,<br />

etc.).<br />

Ethnic markets have been generally ignored by authorities. As long as the products<br />

were supposedly sold only to consumers belonging to the relevant ethnic group, the<br />

easiest solution was to let them develop. I only noticed that importers have been requested<br />

to add a label in French detailing the name and contents of the product. In most<br />

cases, the information is faulty, due to the difficulty for translators to find an adequate<br />

terminology for ethnic products. One classical example is the so-called ‘arbutus’ or Chi-<br />

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