FOOD At the Lefkara Hotel & Restaurant(24342154), chef Athanasia prepares some excellent<strong>di</strong>shes wh<strong>il</strong>e you can try the local speciality,Lefkara lamb or beef stew, at the Vavatsinia Taverna(24342780, 99342780) in the v<strong>il</strong>lage <strong>of</strong> thesame name. If you decide on a meze, you’ll betreated to game <strong>di</strong>shes too.SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? GardenKamara House at Kato Drys costs €70 <strong>per</strong> nightfor two <strong>per</strong>sons and it even has its own ruralmuseum. Elli Kornioti (99892677) can showyou around it and the whole v<strong>il</strong>lage. At Lefkarawe recommend the Lefkara Hotel & Restaurant(24342154, 96351581, €60 <strong>per</strong> night for a doubleroom with breakfast) or Red Blue Door (99420984,99488272) with its two separate apartments,greatly resembling a boutique hotel (weekends€155 for the Red Room and €135 for the BlueRoom, weekdays €110 and €90 respectively).Lefkara also has the Kozakos Luxury Houses(99676704) in the main square.m<strong>il</strong>iouKathikasWINE-FRIENDLYM<strong>il</strong>iou, Kritou Terra,Droushia, KathikasGPS From Pafos take the Polis roadand after passing Tsada, Stroumbiand Yiolou, turn left for M<strong>il</strong>iou. Thelandscape is a dream thanks to its greenery and,in particular, all the fruit trees. Go to the centre <strong>of</strong>the v<strong>il</strong>lage and head for Akourdalia. All the v<strong>il</strong>lageson this route are close to one another. Just keepan eye open for the road signs.TOURISM The Laona-Akamas wine route passesthrough this area, hence the many vineyards,especially near Kathikas and Droushia. You’llhave a chance to taste wines made from theXynisteri and Maratheftiko grape varieties at twovery welcoming local wineries: Sterna (99699082)and K&K Vas<strong>il</strong>ikon (99674004). Before you leaveKathikas, and making sure that you’re sober (!),take the opportunity <strong>of</strong> r a walk in the KoroniaGorge. If you don’t feel like walking you canalways ride on one <strong>of</strong> Trakkos’ friendly donkeys.Another breathtaking sight in the area is that <strong>of</strong>the huge rocks northwest <strong>of</strong> Droushia. FromDroushia, drive on to Kritou Terra and you’llcome across various reminders <strong>of</strong> the v<strong>il</strong>lage’sformer cosmopolitan past: the old casino (theonly <strong>of</strong>ficially-sanctioned one to have existedon the island, whatever you may see on everystreet corner today), the old open-air cinema,the primary school and more.FOOD Pangratios (70003757) is a small tavernthat opened about two years ago at M<strong>il</strong>iou andhas become one <strong>of</strong> those not-to-be-missed placesthat people travel to from all over the island. Thevalue-for-money meze with <strong>di</strong>shes such as rabbit,sheep’s head and sna<strong>il</strong>s, and the taverna-stylebackground music w<strong>il</strong>l win you over from themoment you set foot in the place. If your tastepolystipos12 Time OuT <strong>Cyprus</strong> | Eating guidE 2013
is more towards gourmet cuisine, the blend <strong>of</strong>flavours, atmosphere and service at Amaroula atAyii Anargyri (26814000) w<strong>il</strong>l delight you, as w<strong>il</strong>lthe <strong>di</strong>shes served at the Akamas Health Farm &Spa at Droushia.SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? Since you’vedriven all the way to the h<strong>il</strong>l resorts <strong>of</strong> Pafos, whynot stay and enjoy the area at your leisure? Ourfirst choice would be the Ayii Anargyri NaturalHealing Spa Resort at M<strong>il</strong>iou which costs just €95<strong>per</strong> night for a double room with breakfast. AtDroushia you’ll find the brand new Akamas HealthFarm & Spa (26332424/www.cyprushealthfarm.com) which combines relaxation, wellness and astay in luxury suites. If you visit during the lowseason, from 1 November prices drop to €48<strong>per</strong> <strong>per</strong>son with breakfast, a Thalion treatmentand free use <strong>of</strong> various fac<strong>il</strong>ities. If you’re a fan<strong>of</strong> agrotourism, you’re spo<strong>il</strong>t for choice: there’sSappho at Droushia (26332650, 99604010, from €50<strong>per</strong> night for a stu<strong>di</strong>o) with its pretty garden andvine, or Makrinari (99603603, 26932931, €40-€50<strong>per</strong> night for 2 <strong>per</strong>sons) near the fountainhead atKritou Terra, wh<strong>il</strong>e you can rent a v<strong>il</strong>la throughZ&X V<strong>il</strong>las (26945222 /www.zandxv<strong>il</strong>las.com).NikokleiaWILDWESTsalamiouNikokleia, Trachypedoula,SalamiouGPS To get to Nikokleia, on theLimassol-Pafos road near the Rock<strong>of</strong> Aphro<strong>di</strong>te, turn <strong>of</strong>f towardsKouklia. From there the route to Trachypedoula issu<strong>per</strong>b and you won’t be able to take your eyes <strong>of</strong>fthe multi-coloured rocky h<strong>il</strong>lsides. This is naturalw<strong>il</strong>derness straight out <strong>of</strong> a road movie. Alongthe Diarizos river bed there are layers <strong>of</strong> rocksome 200 m<strong>il</strong>lion years old, not to mention thedeserted v<strong>il</strong>lage <strong>of</strong> Prastio with the pretty church<strong>of</strong> the Archangel, waterm<strong>il</strong>ls and the imposingnew wind farm overlooking the area.TOURISM Once you’ve made the best <strong>of</strong> the manyphoto opportunities, your next stop is Kourtellorotsos.If you’re the sporty type you can climb up therocky elevation, otherwise walk around it and in thenearby river bed to check out the rare w<strong>il</strong>d flowers.After a visit to the Monastery <strong>of</strong> the Virgin Mary(Panagia Salamiotissa) and its fragrant gardensyou can picnic at Kyparisso under the tall Cypresstrees, order a tra<strong>di</strong>tional c<strong>of</strong>fee at the c<strong>of</strong>fee shopin the square with the old spring in the backgroundCasale panayiotisand <strong>per</strong>haps go to the tiny open-air cinema whichis surrounded by fruit trees.FOOD Sample an excellent meze at the Nikoklis Inn(26432211, 99309279) at Nikokleia and at ViolarisTavern (99191855, 26442999) near the square atSalamiou, which is also where you’ll find Em<strong>il</strong>ios(99064485, 26442551) with freshly-made <strong>di</strong>shesand the owner’s home-grown fruit and vegetables,home-made halloumi and hand-reared chickenand rabbit on the menu. For something quick(but st<strong>il</strong>l special) try Extreme View (99498303)where you can also have c<strong>of</strong>fee with one <strong>of</strong> the5-6 <strong>di</strong>fferent types <strong>of</strong> cake ava<strong>il</strong>able da<strong>il</strong>y.SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? If you’rethinking <strong>of</strong> leaving once the sun’s gone down,you’ll have second thoughts the moment you<strong>ente</strong>r Dinos’ House (99582587, 22490620, €70<strong>per</strong> night for two <strong>per</strong>sons or 50 <strong>per</strong> night formore than 2 nights) at Trachypedoula. A secondoption for an overnight stay is at Nikokleia at theVas<strong>il</strong>ias Nikoklis Inn (26432211, 99309279, €60 fora double room with breakfast).GOURMETOmodosL<strong>of</strong>ouL<strong>of</strong>ou, Vouni, Platres,OmodosGPS To get onto this route youhave a choice <strong>of</strong> starting pointsfrom Limassol: either take the exitlea<strong>di</strong>ng northwards at the Polemidhia roundabouton the Nicosia-Limassol-Pafos highway or take theErimi turn<strong>of</strong>f and head for Vouni. In the first case,Eating guidE 2013 | Time OuT <strong>Cyprus</strong> 13