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paste, right after they are caught. If the raw meal seems too bold, bingeo can also be prepared cooked and seasoned. You don’t have to look too far for restaurants — there is a line of snack bars shielded from the chilly winds by tents pitched around the festival venue on Soyangho lake. Though the 2010 Icefish Festival was held from January 28 to 31, die-hard bingeo afficionados start visiting the frozen rivers from mid-January to early February, when the river starts to freeze. Mount Seoraksan was the fifth mountain to be designated a national park in Korea. When people hear the name, they might think of its main gateway city, Sokcho, but the inland region of this mountain is actually located in Inje. Mount Seoraksan is divided into Naeseorak (Inner Seorak), Waeseorak (Outer Seorak), and Namseorak (South Seorak). Naeseorak is located in Inje, Waeseorak in Goseong and Sokcho, and Namseorak in Yangyang and Inje. The mountain peaks and ridges have become the natural borders dividing the regions, creating different traditions and lifestyles for each. There are 96 mountains in Inje and some 91 percent of its total area consists of peaks and rivers, creating the depth of its valleys. Though the fiery-hue of autumnal foliage is typically the first image to grace people’s minds when they hear Mount Seoraksan mentioned, the landscape is actually pure white and snowy for most of the year. The mountain’s snow cover remains for so long, in fact, that is said that snow from Chuseok (the Korean harvest holiday in September) doesn’t melt until Dano (the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, around mid-June of the solar calendar). This is how it earned its name, which in Korean means a snowy mountain that is difficult to climb. A SPIRITUAL WINTER On a recent winter’s day, heavy snowfall froze all roads and stopped all shuttle buses. Visitors to the area were told that they would have to walk 14km to reach Baekdamsa temple. The suddenly-limited traffic saw Baekdamsa return to its past, when it was once a secluded temple with few visitors. After walking along the solitary valley for two hours, it feels as if the world had widened and broadened. There are few people willing to take on the mountains, and the chirping of the birds becomes defined and clear. On the snow, the footprints of a rabbit skipping to look for spring water are imprinted like a winter shadow. Only after crossing two bridges and climbing three hills — causing sweat to caress my forehead — does the Iljumun gate appear. I cross the last bridge, the Susingyo, and finally I arrive at the Baekdamsa temple. One of the founding temples of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, only 40 people a year undertake the challenge of pursuing the temple’s strict teaching — the first step to becoming a monk. To catch a glimpse into a monk’s life without the six months of training, visitors can easily participate in a temple stay. The short program offers lessons on meditation, the 108 bows, dado (tea ceremony), balwu-gongyang (eating practices) and yoga. For those who can’t stay long, relax for a warm cup of green tea and add a stone on the pagoda at the temple’s entrance, which symbolizes leaving behind one’s worries. My footsteps climbing down the mountain are lighter, the weather warmer. It’s a delight to see the animals, invisible from a car’s vantage point, while walking the silent wintry road. Winter in Inje — this is spiritual training. HOW TO GO > By Bus Take a bus at Dong (East) Seoul Bus Terminal ([02] 446-8000) or Sangbong Bus Terminal ([02] 323- 5885). The ride takes around two hours and 20 minutes to Inje. > By Car Take Gyeongchun Expressway from Seoul through Donghongcheon to Inje (an hour and 30 minutes), or Youngdong Expressway through Wonju and Hongcheon to Inje (two hours and 30 minutes). You must take National Road No 44 from Hongcheon. For more information, call the Inje Tourism Information Center on 1588-6226, [033] 460-2170 or visit <strong>www</strong>.inje.go.kr. HWANGTAE FESTIVAL, YONGDAE-RI > Date Feb. 26-Mar. 1, 2010 > Address Yongdae 3-ri, Inje. For more information, call [033] 462- 4808 or visit <strong>www</strong>.yongdaeri.com. BAEKDAMSA TEMPLE > Address 690 Yongdae-ri, Bukmyeon, Inje. For more information, call [033] 462-6969, Temple Secretariat [033] 462-5565 or <strong>www</strong>.baekdamsa.org. > Temple Stay Fee Rest for one day (30,000 Korean won [US$27.27]), two days & one night (70,000 won [US$63.63]), three days & two nights (100,000 won [US$90.90]), etc. The water of Soyanggang river lies frozen (above). The bell of Baekdamsa temple (opposite top). A woman is enjoying ice fishing on bingjang, ice plaza in Inje (opposite bottom). KOREA FEBRUARY 2010 31