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paste, right after they are caught. If the raw meal
seems too bold, bingeo can also be prepared
cooked and seasoned. You don’t have to look too
far for restaurants — there is a line of snack bars
shielded from the chilly winds by tents pitched
around the festival venue on Soyangho lake.
Though the 2010 Icefish Festival was held from
January 28 to 31, die-hard bingeo afficionados
start visiting the frozen rivers from mid-January
to early February, when the river starts to freeze.
Mount Seoraksan was the fifth mountain to be
designated a national park in Korea. When people
hear the name, they might think of its main
gateway city, Sokcho, but the inland region of
this mountain is actually located in Inje. Mount
Seoraksan is divided into Naeseorak (Inner
Seorak), Waeseorak (Outer Seorak), and
Namseorak (South Seorak). Naeseorak is located
in Inje, Waeseorak in Goseong and Sokcho, and
Namseorak in Yangyang and Inje. The mountain
peaks and ridges have become the natural borders
dividing the regions, creating different traditions
and lifestyles for each. There are 96 mountains
in Inje and some 91 percent of its total
area consists of peaks and rivers, creating the
depth of its valleys.
Though the fiery-hue of autumnal foliage is
typically the first image to grace people’s minds
when they hear Mount Seoraksan mentioned, the
landscape is actually pure white and snowy for
most of the year. The mountain’s snow cover
remains for so long, in fact, that is said that
snow from Chuseok (the Korean harvest holiday
in September) doesn’t melt until Dano (the fifth
day of the fifth lunar month, around mid-June of
the solar calendar). This is how it earned its
name, which in Korean means a snowy mountain
that is difficult to climb.
A SPIRITUAL WINTER On a recent winter’s day,
heavy snowfall froze all roads and stopped all
shuttle buses. Visitors to the area were told that
they would have to walk 14km to reach
Baekdamsa temple. The suddenly-limited traffic
saw Baekdamsa return to its past, when it was
once a secluded temple with few visitors. After
walking along the solitary valley for two hours, it
feels as if the world had widened and broadened.
There are few people willing to take on the
mountains, and the chirping of the birds
becomes defined and clear. On the snow, the
footprints of a rabbit skipping to look for spring
water are imprinted like a winter shadow. Only
after crossing two bridges and climbing three
hills — causing sweat to caress my forehead —
does the Iljumun gate appear. I cross the last
bridge, the Susingyo, and finally I arrive at the
Baekdamsa temple.
One of the founding temples of the Jogye
Order of Korean Buddhism, only 40 people a
year undertake the challenge of pursuing the
temple’s strict teaching — the first step to
becoming a monk. To catch a glimpse into a
monk’s life without the six months of training,
visitors can easily participate in a temple stay.
The short program offers lessons on meditation,
the 108 bows, dado (tea ceremony),
balwu-gongyang (eating practices) and yoga. For
those who can’t stay long, relax for a warm cup of
green tea and add a stone on the pagoda at the
temple’s entrance, which symbolizes leaving
behind one’s worries.
My footsteps climbing down the mountain are
lighter, the weather warmer. It’s a delight to see
the animals, invisible from a car’s vantage point,
while walking the silent wintry road. Winter in
Inje — this is spiritual training.
HOW TO GO
> By Bus Take a bus at Dong (East)
Seoul Bus Terminal ([02] 446-8000) or
Sangbong Bus Terminal ([02] 323-
5885). The ride takes around two
hours and 20 minutes to Inje.
> By Car Take Gyeongchun
Expressway from Seoul through Donghongcheon
to Inje (an hour and 30
minutes), or Youngdong Expressway
through Wonju and Hongcheon to Inje
(two hours and 30 minutes). You must
take National Road No 44 from
Hongcheon. For more information, call
the Inje Tourism Information Center on
1588-6226, [033] 460-2170 or visit
www.inje.go.kr.
HWANGTAE FESTIVAL, YONGDAE-RI
> Date Feb. 26-Mar. 1, 2010
> Address Yongdae 3-ri, Inje.
For more information, call [033] 462-
4808 or visit www.yongdaeri.com.
BAEKDAMSA TEMPLE
> Address 690 Yongdae-ri, Bukmyeon,
Inje. For more information, call
[033] 462-6969, Temple Secretariat
[033] 462-5565 or www.baekdamsa.org.
> Temple Stay Fee Rest for one day
(30,000 Korean won [US$27.27]), two
days & one night (70,000 won
[US$63.63]), three days & two nights
(100,000 won [US$90.90]), etc.
The water of Soyanggang river lies frozen (above). The bell of
Baekdamsa temple (opposite top). A woman is enjoying ice fishing
on bingjang, ice plaza in Inje (opposite bottom).
KOREA
FEBRUARY
2010
31