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Young und Okey - 1915 - Travels in France and Italy during the years 1787,

Young und Okey - 1915 - Travels in France and Italy during the years 1787,

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<strong>Travels</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>France</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Italy</strong>/29<br />

some streets. It is said to be very populous, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> eye confirms <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>telligence. The ca<strong>the</strong>dral is modern, <strong>and</strong> pretty well built, but too heavy.<br />

The public college, <strong>the</strong> sem<strong>in</strong>ary, <strong>the</strong> bishop’s palace, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> house of<br />

<strong>the</strong> first president of <strong>the</strong> court of aids are good build<strong>in</strong>gs: <strong>the</strong> last large<br />

with a most showy entrance. The promenade is f<strong>in</strong>ely situated; built on<br />

<strong>the</strong> highest part of <strong>the</strong> rampart, <strong>and</strong> comm<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g that noble vale, or<br />

ra<strong>the</strong>r pla<strong>in</strong>, one of <strong>the</strong> richest <strong>in</strong> Europe, which extends on one side to<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> front to <strong>the</strong> Pyrenees; whose tower<strong>in</strong>g masses, heaped<br />

one upon ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> a stupendous manner, <strong>and</strong> covered with snow, offer<br />

a variety of lights <strong>and</strong> shades from <strong>in</strong>dented forms <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> immensity of<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir projections. This prospect, which conta<strong>in</strong>s a semicircle of a h<strong>und</strong>red<br />

miles diameter, has an oceanic vastness, <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong> eye loses<br />

itself; an almost bo<strong>und</strong>less scene of cultivation; an animated, but confused<br />

mass of <strong>in</strong>f<strong>in</strong>itely varied parts— melt<strong>in</strong>g gradually <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> distant<br />

obscure from which emerges <strong>the</strong> amaz<strong>in</strong>g frame of <strong>the</strong> Pyrenees, rear<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir silvered heads far above <strong>the</strong> clouds. At Montauban I met Capta<strong>in</strong><br />

Plamp<strong>in</strong>, of <strong>the</strong> royal navy; he was with Major Crew, who has a<br />

house <strong>and</strong> family here, to which he politely carried us; it is sweetly<br />

situated on <strong>the</strong> skirts of <strong>the</strong> town, comm<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g a f<strong>in</strong>e view; <strong>the</strong>y were so<br />

oblig<strong>in</strong>g as to resolve my <strong>in</strong>quiries upon some po<strong>in</strong>ts, of which a residence<br />

made <strong>the</strong>m complete judges. Liv<strong>in</strong>g is reckoned cheap here; a<br />

family was named to us whose <strong>in</strong>come was supposed to be about 1500<br />

louis a year, <strong>and</strong> who lived as h<strong>and</strong>somely as <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> on £5000. The<br />

comparative dearness <strong>and</strong> cheapness of different countries is a subject<br />

of considerable importance, but difficult to analyse. As I conceive <strong>the</strong><br />

English to have made far greater advances <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> useful arts <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

manufactures than <strong>the</strong> French have done, Engl<strong>and</strong> ought to be <strong>the</strong> cheaper<br />

country. What we meet with <strong>in</strong> <strong>France</strong> is a cheap mode of liv<strong>in</strong>g, which<br />

is quite ano<strong>the</strong>r consideration.—30 miles.<br />

13th. Pass Grisolles, where are well-built cottages without glass,<br />

<strong>and</strong> some with no o<strong>the</strong>r light than <strong>the</strong> door. D<strong>in</strong>e at Pomp<strong>in</strong>ion, at <strong>the</strong><br />

Gr<strong>and</strong> Soleil, an uncommonly good <strong>in</strong>n, where Capta<strong>in</strong> Plamp<strong>in</strong>, who<br />

accompanied us thus far, took his leave. Here we had a violent storm of<br />

th<strong>und</strong>er <strong>and</strong> lightn<strong>in</strong>g, with ra<strong>in</strong> much heavier I thought than I had known<br />

<strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong>; but, when we set out for Toulouse, I was immediately conv<strong>in</strong>ced<br />

that such a violent shower had never fallen <strong>in</strong> that k<strong>in</strong>gdom; for<br />

<strong>the</strong> destruction it had poured on <strong>the</strong> noble scene of cultivation, which<br />

but a moment before was smil<strong>in</strong>g with exuberance, was terrible to behold.<br />

All now one scene of distress: <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>est crops of wheat beaten so

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