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Young und Okey - 1915 - Travels in France and Italy during the years 1787,

Young und Okey - 1915 - Travels in France and Italy during the years 1787,

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<strong>Travels</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>France</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Italy</strong>/41<br />

is beaten, one-third rough, <strong>and</strong> one-third covered with weeds. In 36 miles,<br />

I have met one cabriolet, half a dozen carts, <strong>and</strong> some old women with<br />

asses. For what all this waste of treasure?—In Languedoc, it is true,<br />

<strong>the</strong>se works are not done by corvees; but <strong>the</strong>re is an <strong>in</strong>justice <strong>in</strong> levy<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> amount not far short of <strong>the</strong>m. The money is raised by tailles, <strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong><br />

mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> assessment, l<strong>and</strong>s held by a noble tenure are so much eased,<br />

<strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs by a base one so bur<strong>the</strong>ned, that 120 arpents <strong>in</strong> this<br />

neighbourhood held by <strong>the</strong> former pay 90 livres <strong>and</strong> 400 possessed by a<br />

plebeian right, which ought proportionally to pay 300 livres, is, <strong>in</strong>stead<br />

of that, assessed at 1400 livres. At Narbonne, <strong>the</strong> canal which jo<strong>in</strong>s that<br />

of Languedoc deserves attention; it is a very f<strong>in</strong>e work, <strong>and</strong> will, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

say, be f<strong>in</strong>ished next month.—36 miles.<br />

24th. Women without stock<strong>in</strong>gs, <strong>and</strong> many without shoes; but if<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir feet are poorly clad <strong>the</strong>y have a superb consolation <strong>in</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g<br />

upon magnificent causeways: <strong>the</strong> new road is 50 feet wide, <strong>and</strong> 50 more<br />

digged away or destroyed to make it.<br />

The v<strong>in</strong>tage itself can hardly be such a scene of activity <strong>and</strong> animation<br />

as this universal one of tread<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> corn, with which all <strong>the</strong><br />

towns <strong>and</strong> villages <strong>in</strong> Languedoc are now alive. The corn is all roughly<br />

stacked aro<strong>und</strong> a dry firm spot, where great numbers of mules <strong>and</strong> horses<br />

are driven on a trot ro<strong>und</strong> a centre, a woman hold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> re<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>and</strong><br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r, or a girl or two, with whips drive; <strong>the</strong> men supply <strong>and</strong> clear <strong>the</strong><br />

floor; o<strong>the</strong>r parties are dress<strong>in</strong>g, by throw<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> corn <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> air for <strong>the</strong><br />

w<strong>in</strong>d to blow away <strong>the</strong> chaff. Every soul is employed, <strong>and</strong> with such an<br />

air of cheerfulness that <strong>the</strong> people seem as well pleased with <strong>the</strong>ir labour<br />

as <strong>the</strong> farmer himself with his great heaps of wheat. The scene is uncommonly<br />

animated <strong>and</strong> joyous. I stopped <strong>and</strong> alighted often to see <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

method; I was always very civilly treated, <strong>and</strong> my wishes for a good<br />

price for <strong>the</strong> farmer, <strong>and</strong> not too good a one for <strong>the</strong> poor, well received.<br />

This method, which entirely saves barns, depends absolutely on climate:<br />

from my leav<strong>in</strong>g Bagnere de Luchon to this moment, all through<br />

Catalonia, Roussillon, <strong>and</strong> this part of Languedoc, <strong>the</strong>re has been noth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

like ra<strong>in</strong>; but one unvary<strong>in</strong>g clear bright sky <strong>and</strong> burn<strong>in</strong>g sun, yet<br />

not at all suffocat<strong>in</strong>g, or to me even unpleasant. I asked whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were not sometimes caught <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong>? <strong>the</strong>y said, very rarely <strong>in</strong>deed; but<br />

if ra<strong>in</strong> did come, it is seldom more than a heavy shower, which a hot sun<br />

quickly succeeds <strong>and</strong> dries everyth<strong>in</strong>g speedily.<br />

The canal of Languedoc is <strong>the</strong> capital feature of all this country.<br />

The mounta<strong>in</strong> through which it pierces is <strong>in</strong>sulated, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> midst of an

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