Slipstream - November 2003

Road Ramblings
by Keith Olcha, Maverick Region President
November is the month when our track
driving and competitive driving events
complete for the year. For 2003, no more
Autocrosses, Time-Trials, Drivers Educations,
or Maverick-Sponsored Club Racing. Looking
at this year from that perspective leaves me
feeling fulfilled. We had four autocross and
time trial driving schools, seven autocrosses,
six time trials, four drivers educations at racetracks, and our
annual club race. We also had a rally school, two rallies, and a
few Concours Events. We hold our annual region dinner,
Founder’s Day in November. This year it’s on November 8th at
the Speedway Club at Texas Motor Speedway. Founder’s Day is
our annual celebration of the founding and tradition of
Maverick Region. We vote and submit ballots for the upcoming
year’s officers and present awards and recognize members for
outstanding service and contribution to the region. We also give
out trophies to the competitors who drove in Autocrosses and
Time Trials during the year and placed. There is a silent auction,
many door prizes you can win, and a great time for socializing
with fellow Mavericks. I hope you’re reading this knowing you’ll
be joining us, and if not, you’ll think about coming to Founder’s
Day next year. While the competitive driving season is over, the
calendar is not empty. There are still many activities and events
going on between now and the end of the year.
...While the competitive driving season is
over, the calendar is not empty...
Now that the weather has changed, on a completely
different note, exterior car-care can be a big part of the
Porsche-nut’s mentality. Some folks do it all by themselves
while others utilize detailing services or automatic or hand car
washes. Of the do-it-yourself crowd I’ve talked to people who
buy more expensive car care products and those who purchase
lower-priced items readily available at auto parts stores and
Wal-Mart, etc. I wonder what is really the ultimate system?
I have chatted with people pretty well versed in everything
from hiding swirl marks to removing Cosmoline from their
undercarriage on a newer Porsche. I’m looking for that
ultimate combination of an easy-to-use, best quality, yet
inexpensive set of products. I have always been careful about
keeping my cars clean and waxed, but never really had a
“system” that included every step- where you park your car,
covers, washing schedules and the like. So I made up my own
“system” that is reasonably cheap and fast to follow. I
developed this system by asking many people about their
methods for keeping their Porsches shiny and wear-free.
I decided that when I traded my first Boxster S in for
a newer one, I would attempt to develop a complete
maintenance “lifestyle” for that car- something I had never
done before. Let me explain: I put 20,000 miles on the first
Boxster in just under 2 years time, and did nothing
exceptional to prevent or eliminate rock nicks, fallout, or
normal abuse. I washed the car whenever it got fairly dirty and
waxed it once every 3 months, tops. Let me give the conclusion
first, by saying that this new Boxster S has 17,000 miles on it
in 17 months and it looks light-years better than the first one.
It has been on the racetrack, autocrossed, and driven on the
highway a lot. So let me share with you what I did:
First, as far as prevention, I use a Porsche nose bra to cover
the front of the car. It is installed about 75 percent of the time.
This bra has eliminated most front paint chips (especially at
Drivers Education events and on the highway). I wash the bra
when I wash the car and then remove it and wash the nose of
the car. I never put the bra on wet, and always put it on a clean
car. Another approach is the 3M clear protective pieces that
can be glued to most surfaces- rocker panels, hoods, bumpers
and fenders. Racecars use this material a lot. The film is almost
invisible and looks great. That solves the problem bras
generate- beautiful car- ugly plastic nose mitten. You can buy
sheets of this protective film or pre-cut specific model designs
for bras, etc. It’s a squeegee and patience job I’m told. It comes
off with a heat gun. In the future I may attempt to install some
of this myself, or have it done by an installer. Second, I
installed small mud-flaps (yes, you read that correctly) from
Tweeks that are not obtrusive and protect the front and rear
rocker panels from debris and dirt kicked up by the tires.
Third, I bought a car cover and use it whenever the car spends
the night outside. Finally, when I go to the track or an
autocross, I use some racers tape strategically placed around
the wheel well arches and rear bumper to keep additional
rocks off the paint. I use mineral spirits or products like
“Goof-Off” to get the goo off after I remove the tape. The car
is nearly chip-free.
I also decided to try a fast detailing method for the
exterior. I buy the gallon sizes of Meguiars car wash and Quick
Detail from www.carcareonline.com, Eagle-1 “Wax-as-U-Dry”
from Wal-Mart, and Costco’s gallon-size Kirkland version of
Simple Green. I use the Meguiars car wash and then the Eagle-1.
That “Wax-as-U-dry” is great. Spray it on a wet car and dry as
usual. The car feels waxed and smooth. I use the Quick Detail
spray a couple of times per month also. I use the Costco green
cleaner on the wheels and inside fender wells. I have yet to
actually wax the car. But I will soon, and will use 3M Imperial
Hand Glaze followed by Meguiars #26 yellow wax.
I also learned about micro-fiber towels for applying and
removing products. These towels leave no little threads, fuzz
etc. on the surface. They can be bought from body shop supply
stores, carcareonline above, and Griots garage, among other
sources. They, however, are not cheap! I’m thinking of buying
the gallon of car wash and the spray detailer from Griots
Garage when my current Meguiars inventory runs out to try
something different. I assume some company manufactures
chemicals for Griots as he is a retailer, but if one of you know
more, please let me know. Till next month then, keep the shiny
side up, the greasy side down, and clean the grease off.
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