Eatdrink #46 March/April 2014

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario<br />

FREE<br />

№ 46 • <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

<strong>2014</strong><br />

www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Merging<br />

Contemporary<br />

& Traditional at<br />

Bradshaws<br />

in Stratford<br />


Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro<br />

Veramente Artigiani in London<br />

North Moore Catering<br />

Quality, Craft and the Discerning Taste of<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra (The River Room/Rhino Lounge)<br />

London’s Small-Batch Coffee Roasters<br />

• Fire Roasted Coffee Co. • Hasbeans • Kingfisher Coffee Co.<br />

• Las Chicas del Café • Locomotive Coffee<br />

ALSO: Samuels Boutique Hotel in Goderich | A London Fish & Chips Roundup | Grain Power

A delicious new season<br />

springs to life<br />

in STRATFORD<br />

Stratford salutes spring with the annual Swan Parade. Experience sweet<br />

tastes on our newest adventure, the Maple Trail. Or take a guided trek<br />

foraging for wild leeks and fiddleheads. Bring some friends and join<br />

master chefs at a GE Café Chefs Cooking Class. Savour spring’s<br />

flavours in Stratford.<br />

MARCH<br />

6 Stratford Chefs School Teat to Table Dinner Series, Monforte<br />

on Wellington<br />

20 Craft Beer Dinner Series, Mercer Hall<br />

22-23 Spring Foraging Weekend, Puck’s Plenty<br />

23 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Robert Rose, Canadian Grub to Go,<br />

featured on Chopped Canada<br />

29 Savour Stratford Tasting – Cider & Cheese, The Milky Whey<br />

APRIL<br />

3 Jack de Keyzer – Dinner Concert, Foster’s Inn<br />

5&6 Swan Parade Weekend – family fun and food<br />

6 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Yva Santini, Pazzo Taverna<br />

17 Craft Beer Dinner Series, Mercer Hall<br />

27 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Lora Kirk, Ruby Watcho, Toronto<br />

visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON

Authentic<br />





www.londontourism.ca/culinary<br />


tourismlondon<br />

@tourism_london<br />

LONDON<br />


eatdrink<br />

<br />

inc.<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

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Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

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ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com<br />

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eatdrinkmag<br />

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Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Donald D’Haene,<br />

Jill Ellis-Worthington, Dave Hammond, Bryan<br />

Lavery, Christie Massé, Chris McDonell, Kim<br />

Miller, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden, Kym Wolfe<br />

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Stray Light Photography<br />

Kym Wolfe<br />

City Media<br />

Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349<br />

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© <strong>2014</strong> eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink<br />

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission<br />

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues<br />

published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the<br />

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink<br />

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OUR COVER:<br />

Bradshaws proprietors Carrie and<br />

Jeremy Wreford were creatively<br />

photographed in their Ontario Street<br />

store in Stratford by Terry Manzo.

contents ISSUE № 46<br />

MARCH/APRIL <strong>2014</strong><br />

12<br />

16<br />

20<br />

24<br />

30<br />

50<br />

56<br />


8 A Thirst for Small-Batch Coffee Roasters<br />



12 Not Just for the Halibut! Jane’s Picks for Fish and Chips<br />


16 Veramente Artigiani at Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro in London<br />


20 Jess Jazey-Spoelstra: Quality, Craft & Discerning Taste<br />



24 Merging Contemporary and Traditional at Bradshaws<br />



30 Samuels Boutique Hotel and Bistro<br />



36 Never Too Many Tomatoes!<br />



38 The BUZZ<br />


44 When an “Old” Kitchen Is the Goal<br />


WINE<br />

48 Local Biodynamic and Organic Wines<br />



50 Hybrid Beers: Those Marvellous Mutts<br />



53 Donald DISHES on Theatre: Success Is Its Own Reward<br />


BOOKS<br />

56 From Scratch: Inside the Food Network<br />

by Allen Salkin<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />


58 Grain Power<br />

by Patricia Green & Carolyn Hemming<br />

Review by CHRIS McDONELL<br />


62 Another Emerging Wine Region!<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

36<br />

58<br />

NEW<br />

COLUMN!<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

53<br />


Bestselling<br />

Authors of<br />

Quinoa<br />

Revolution<br />

Over 100 Delicious gluten-free<br />

Ancient Grain & Superblend Recipes<br />




navigate<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 7<br />


SHORES<br />

great<br />

SARNIA<br />


& POINT<br />


EDWARD<br />

ST.CLAIR<br />

RIVER<br />


TO<br />

TIMES<br />





in<br />

Lambton<br />

County<br />

“Fun in the Sun”<br />

Marilyn Hearn<br />

<strong>March</strong> 8-30, <strong>2014</strong><br />

Lambton Heritage Museum, Grand Bend<br />

call or click for your FREE travel guide and map<br />

also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres<br />

1.800.265.0316<br />


8 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

food writer at large<br />

A Thirst for Small-Batch Coffee<br />

Roasters and Other Independents<br />


The emergence of London’s smallbatch<br />

coffee roasters emphasizes<br />

the passion that exists for<br />

fairly traded, environmentally<br />

responsible, and ethically sourced coffee<br />

beans. The astounding growth of the<br />

burgeoning coffeehouse/cafe niche in<br />

the intensely competitive coffee market<br />

dominated by Starbucks and Tim Horton’s is<br />

nothing short of remarkable.<br />

Lately there has been an unprecedented<br />

increase of upmarket cafés that are part<br />

grab-and-go café, part bakery, and part<br />

casual dine-in restaurant, some of which<br />

are licensed. The quest of coffee drinkers for<br />

artisanal, small hand-batched roasts with<br />

diverse flavour profiles is unmatched. It has<br />

been recently suggested that in addition to<br />

its other well-documented effects, a cup of<br />

coffee will improve your memory.<br />

Hasbeans is operated by the hospitable<br />

Smith family, who have been Covent Garden<br />

Market merchants for more than 125 years.<br />

Their coffee business continues to be<br />

hands-on with<br />

Paul (third<br />

generation),<br />

Debbie<br />

(fourth) and<br />

Joel (fifth).<br />

While<br />

promoting<br />

the distinct<br />

qualities that<br />

each coffee<br />

bean develops<br />

in its natural<br />

environment,<br />

Hasbeans’<br />

stalwart<br />

owners and<br />

Joel McMillan,<br />

Hasbeans<br />

Fire Roasted Coffee Café<br />

staff have become a Covent Garden Market<br />

institution for their fair trade offerings and<br />

personalized service. Hasbeans’ handselected<br />

and imported coffees are offered as<br />

both green (raw) and roasted coffee beans.<br />

The Little Red Roaster was initially opened<br />

in 1995 and operated by former restaurateurs<br />

Anne and Archie Chisholm of Anthony’s<br />

Seafood Bistro. The Wortley Road location<br />

became a local institution and was the<br />

original café in what became a chain of<br />

independently owned franchises. Kendra<br />

Gordon-Green purchased the venture in<br />

2002, adding several franchised Little Red<br />

Roaster locations in the downtown core,<br />

most notably at the Covent Garden Market<br />

and at the Central Library.<br />

Entrepreneur Dave Cook started The<br />

Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2006. He had<br />

been roasting his own coffee beans in his<br />

garage, and launched Fire Roasted Coffee<br />

as a Saturday business at the Western Fair<br />

Farmers Market. Cook took over as owner<br />

of the market operation two years later<br />

and began to build his business portfolio.<br />

More recently he opened a flagship café<br />

(and his complementary business, Habitual<br />

Chocolate) in a renovated heritage building<br />

at King and Talbot streets. Just last month<br />

Cook opened another satellite Fire Roasted

GCW Custom Kitchens & Cabinetry Inc.<br />

and Maple Leaf Prime<br />

proudly present<br />

A B ig<br />

Italian<br />

Kitchen Party<br />

cinque chef<br />

cinque corsi<br />

cosi tanti sapori<br />

(so many flavours !!)<br />

Your ticket is a chance to win<br />

a fabulous ....Moto Scooter<br />

(valued at $3,900)<br />

generously donated by:<br />

Charity Gala<br />

Thursday <strong>April</strong> 3, <strong>2014</strong><br />

London Convention Centre<br />

50<br />

$ 1 37 . ea<br />

Tickets and information please contact:<br />

Lindey McIntyre, Executive Director<br />

www.bethanyshope.org<br />

519 858-HOPE (4673)

10 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

location in Wortley Village, in premises<br />

formerly occupied by The Little Red Roaster.<br />

Cook leverages his expertise, networks<br />

and knowledge in order to shape a strong<br />

and enabling environment for social<br />

enterprise. Cook’s core business belief<br />

embraces the philosophy of supporting and<br />

mentoring people committed to sourcing<br />

quality products and invested in their place<br />

of origin. In the interest of global justice, Fire<br />

Roasted Coffee has established direct trade<br />

with producing countries to benefit the<br />

producers in a more substantial way.<br />

Fire Roasted had supplied coffee to the<br />

nearby Black Walnut Bakery Café but that<br />

affiliation recently came to a halt. Cook<br />

approached Gordon-Green of the Little Red<br />

Roaster to give Fire Roasted a sustained<br />

presence and a higher profile in Wortley<br />

Village. Cook realizes that this location might<br />

have a limited shelf-life, as there are plans to<br />

expand Home Hardware into that space in the<br />

future. In the meantime, he views the Wortley<br />

Road location like a pop-up restaurant where<br />

he is able to create a different niche and new<br />

identity in the neighbourhood.<br />

Patrick Dunham, the former general<br />

manager and lead roaster for The Fire Roasted<br />

Coffee Company, presided at the Western<br />

Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market location<br />

for six years. Working alongside Dave Cook,<br />

Dunham traveled to coffee farms learning all<br />

aspects of the coffee business from roasting<br />

and cupping to selling.<br />

Dunham went to work as a sales manager<br />

for Imperial Coffee in<br />

February 2013. Wilson and<br />

Mandy Etheridge, owners<br />

of the Black Walnut Bakery<br />

Café, approached Dunham<br />

to partner with them in<br />

setting up Kingfisher<br />

Coffee Company as a<br />

wholesale coffee roaster<br />

and business. The Black<br />

Walnut Bakery Café built<br />

its reputation specializing<br />

in organic fair trade coffees<br />

and teas, seasonal soups,<br />

savoury quiches, bread,<br />

scones and squares, salads<br />

and light meals.<br />

Mandy explained that<br />

they were looking for a<br />

niche that they felt was<br />

absent in the marketplace.<br />

“Unfortunately we could not find what we<br />

were looking for. It seemed our only option<br />

was to create our own one of a kind coffee<br />

roasting company.” This coffee roasting<br />

company would not only service the café, but<br />

would also provide coffee to other business<br />

and individuals around the city wanting the<br />

same characteristics in their coffee.<br />

Kingfisher’s mandate is to provide high<br />

quality coffee blends that are roasted in<br />

London and ethically sourced. The company<br />

caters to the individual needs of customers<br />

and its policy is to demonstrate transparent<br />

community involvement. Kingfisher<br />

roasts coffee beans in small batches and<br />

then blends them to achieve tastes and<br />

complexities that Dunham tells me cannot be<br />

found in single varietal options.<br />

Sisters Maria Fiallos and Valeria Fiallos-<br />

Soliman operate the coffee micro-roaster,<br />

Las Chicas del Café, on Exeter Road, which<br />

Mandy Etheridge<br />

& Patrick Dunham,<br />

Kingfisher Coffee Co.<br />

Maria Fiallos & Valeria Fiallos-<br />

Soliman, Las Chicas del Café<br />

opened in 2005. The Fiallos<br />

family has been defined<br />

by coffee for generations,<br />

starting with their greatgrandfather<br />

on the family’s<br />

coffee plantation in Las<br />

Sabanas, Nicaragua. The<br />

family was forced to flee<br />

Nicaragua in the 1980s<br />

during that country’s civil<br />

war, finally settling in<br />

London, Ontario in 1988.<br />

The sisters’ parents were<br />

eventually able to return to<br />

Nicaragua and re-establish<br />

the family’s coffee growing<br />

tradition with their<br />

mission of “quality, tradition<br />

and responsibility.”<br />

Today, plantation workers

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 11<br />

Locomotive Espresso at<br />

Pall Mall & Colborne<br />

hand-pick, sun-dry<br />

and manually bag<br />

their annual harvest<br />

of dense, flavourpacked<br />

beans and<br />

send them to London<br />

to be roasted.<br />

Charles and Jill<br />

Wright recently<br />

opened Locomotive<br />

Espresso in a building<br />

that has been a<br />

neighbourhood variety<br />

store for 45 years.<br />

Locomotive baristas<br />

have received strict training in Pilot Coffee<br />

Roaster’s Toronto espresso laboratory. Pilot<br />

took top honours in this year’s Roast Magazine’s<br />

annual Roaster of the Year competition<br />

saying, “Pilot’s exemplary marketing practices<br />

and dedication to offering quality coffee —<br />

evidenced by its education practices and construction<br />

of a state-of-the-art coffee-tasting lab<br />

— propelled the company to a win.”<br />

Locomotive Espresso opened its doors<br />

mid-February, looking to fill a growing worldwide<br />

thirst for local,<br />

independent coffee bars<br />

serving the highest quality<br />

beverages. Its direct<br />

trade beans will be featured<br />

along with other<br />

“visiting” roasts from<br />

similarly skilled roasters.<br />

Locomotive is located at<br />

the corner of Pall Mall<br />

and Colborne at the<br />

railroad tracks, in the<br />

former Helen’s Variety.<br />

More and more, it<br />

is worth embracing<br />

independents and small-batch artisanal<br />

coffee roasters. These types of businesses<br />

provide core commitments to quality,<br />

relationships and hands-on service. The<br />

coffee trade appears to be further inspired<br />

to leverage economies with social enterprise<br />

and environmental responsibility by their<br />

conduct, rather than driving profit by how<br />

they market themselves.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is a coffee drinker.<br />



519.663.2002 | www.downtownlondon.ca<br />

123 King Street @Downtown_London DowntownLondon

12 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

Not Just for the Halibut!<br />

Jane’s Picks for Fish and Chips in London<br />


You’d think that in a city called<br />

London, with a Thames River, a<br />

Covent Garden Market and a Victoria<br />

Park, people might know a thing or<br />

two about serving up England’s favourite treat.<br />

You’d be right, but in this London, you can also<br />

look to the Dutch, Greeks, Albanians, Algerians and<br />

Canadians for a selection of some of the finest fish ‘n’<br />

chips available — crispy battered halibut, haddock and cod<br />

alongside chips, coleslaw, tartar sauce and lemon slices. Just don’t<br />

call these places “chippies” — they have so much more to offer!<br />

The Original<br />

By all accounts, Kipps Lane Fish & Chips<br />

is the longest continuously owned and<br />

operated (by the same family) fish and chips<br />

shop in London. The late John Arp emigrated<br />

here from Holland and bought a failing take-<br />

Archie’s<br />

Seafood<br />

Restaurants<br />

out pizza and fish shop on Kipps Lane in 1972.<br />

The Arp family built a loyal following for their<br />

ultra clean and cheery premises, hand-cut<br />

halibut, and cooked-to-order, lightly battered<br />

and crispy fish and chips. Lovingly known as<br />

the “Codfather,” John devoted most of his life<br />

to serving fish to Londoners.<br />

Daughter Jacqueline Arp, now runs the<br />

shop for the dinner run Tuesday to Sunday.<br />

“This is my tribute to my parents. They opened<br />

this when I was a little girl. Running this place<br />

helps to keep their memory alive,” she says<br />

while wrapping white boxes in newsprint for<br />

take-out. There is seating for about a dozen<br />

but ninety percent of the business is take-out.<br />

The menu now includes seafood poutine,<br />

scallops, chowder and more, but it’s the<br />

halibut which continues to bring in customers.<br />

Good Friday orders are sold out two weeks<br />

in advance. Loyal staffers Terry Gurnett and<br />

Lorrie Emery come in daily at noon to prep<br />

the same way John Arp did — making tartar<br />

sauce, coleslaw and chowder from scratch.<br />

“We are small but mighty,” smiles Jacqueline.<br />

“Our customers are our friends.”<br />

www.kippslanefish.com<br />

1050 Kipps Lane, London<br />

519-673-6606<br />

Jacqueline Arp with staffers Terry<br />

Gurnett (left) and Lorrie Emery

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 13<br />

The Biggest<br />

With four locations,<br />

Archie’s Seafood<br />

Restaurants sells 10,000<br />

pounds of Alaskan<br />

halibut a month. Huge,<br />

whole, frozen halibut<br />

are processed by longtime<br />

staffer Chan Dieu,<br />

who expertly hand cuts<br />

4-ounce fillets. Known for<br />

its family-friendly dine-in<br />

atmosphere with a nautical<br />

theme, wood paneled walls<br />

and consistent offerings,<br />

Chan Dieu & Tony Arroyas of<br />

Archies hoist huge frozen<br />

halibut, which are hand-cut<br />

into 4-ounce fillets, battered<br />

(below) and deep-fried<br />

Archie’s is a hit with seniors, young<br />

families and everyone in between. It<br />

even offers a drive-thru.<br />

Alain and Donna Arroyas opened<br />

the first location on Wharncliffe Road<br />

28 years ago. He emigrated here from<br />

Algeria. Donna brought her love of fish<br />

and chips from Newfoundland. Together<br />

they built the business that now employs<br />

100 people and is operated by their son,<br />

Tony. Their daughter Nicole is a wellknown<br />

and talented pastry chef who<br />

supplies pies and desserts to Archie’s<br />

from her own shop, Petit Paris. The<br />

family also owns Auberge du Petit Prince<br />

restaurant (there is halibut on the menu<br />

there, too). Expect large portions and<br />

unsalted hand-cut chips from Huron<br />

Chief, potato producers<br />

in Grand Bend. Tony says<br />

he’s trying to help keep<br />

things healthy by letting<br />

customers apply their<br />

own salt. We did, and<br />

everything was delicious!<br />

www.archiesseafood.ca<br />

1146 Commissioners Road<br />

East, London,<br />

519-680-1144;<br />

153 Wharncliffe Road<br />

South, London,<br />

519-438-8287;<br />

1173 Wellington Road,<br />

London, 519-668-2060;<br />

1348 Huron Street,<br />

London, 519-659-3100<br />

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items!<br />

ENJOY<br />

Authentic<br />

Greek Wines<br />

& Beer<br />

OPEN LATE!<br />

SUN & Holidays 11–9<br />

MON−SAT 11–11<br />

EAT-IN OR<br />

TAKE-OUT<br />

572 Adelaide Street, London<br />

519-434-6736<br />


14 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

The Unique<br />

Every Tuesday and Friday, a Deluxe Fish ‘n’<br />

Chips at Irene’s Seafood Grill on Wellington<br />

Road South comes served with creamy,<br />

smoky, hearty Albanian Bean Soup. Luan<br />

Jonuzi took over the former Irene’s Seafood<br />

21 years ago as a new arrival from Albania.<br />

The soup is now so popular that people<br />

now phone ahead or request it frozen for<br />

later pick-up. The soccer player turned<br />

restaurateur has energy to spare, and it<br />

shows in the newly renovated dining area<br />

and in his menu (he’s added such items as<br />

grilled fish in tarragon sauce). Luan loves<br />

to serve crowds of young people who often<br />

request Bloody Caesars with their fish. He<br />

also caters to a loyal following of seniors<br />

looking for a cozy getaway for their weekly<br />

meal of lightly battered Alaskan halibut,<br />

haddock or cod. Luan believes in generous<br />

helpings along with friendly service. He can<br />

be seen cooking through an open window<br />

and he often pops out of the kitchen to<br />

greet people. His enthusiasm is evident in<br />

the jumbo take-away deals such as family<br />

dinners that include seven large pieces of<br />

halibut, double fries and double salad for<br />

$56. Take your kids and their grandparents.<br />

Have yourself a glass of wine. Everyone will<br />

be happy. Especially Luan.<br />

315 Wellington Road, London<br />

519-439-6121<br />

At Mykonos, Heidi Vamvalis<br />

serves up fish and chips, as<br />

well as Greek cuisine<br />

At Irene’s Seafood Grill,<br />

Chef/Owner Luan Jonuzi<br />

delivers generous helpings,<br />

along with friendly service<br />

The Atmosphere<br />

Some people are surprised to hear that when<br />

Bill and Heidi Vamvalis started Mykonos 40<br />

years ago on Adelaide Street, it had been a<br />

fish and chip shop since 1951. “We had fryers<br />

where the bar is now and three tables,” recalls<br />

Heidi. “Fish is still a staple on the menu.” Now<br />

halibut and chips at Mykonos comes with<br />

a side of Greek salad, a basket of bread and<br />

house-made tartar sauce. The meaty halibut<br />

has a delicious crispy coating. The cod has a<br />

rich, full flavour. All of it goes very well in the<br />

romantic, Greek island themed setting which<br />

includes candle-lit tables, clouds painted on<br />

the ceilings and strings of lights along the<br />

blue walls. With a glass of wine and a hug<br />

from Heidi, a trip to Mykonos is a perfect date<br />

night or a place to relax over an extended<br />

fish and chip experience, which might also<br />

include calamari and baklava.<br />

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca<br />

572 Adelaide Street, London<br />

519-434-6736<br />

The Pub<br />

We’d be hard-pressed to find a pub in London<br />

that doesn’t offer fish and chips. What we like<br />

about The Waltzing Weasel is that fresh beer<br />

is served with the beer-battered haddock and<br />

halibut. The beer in the batter changes daily<br />

depending on the whim of the bartender. With<br />

18 drafts on tap that makes for some interesting

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 15<br />

fish. Flaky and piping hot,<br />

served with both malt and<br />

white vinegar on the tables,<br />

fish and chips at the Weasel is<br />

a great “local” experience.<br />

www.thewaltzingweasel.com<br />

1324 Adelaide St. N., London<br />

519-663-9194<br />

Other Notables<br />

Walker’s Fish and Chips<br />

on Wellington at Horton,<br />

and Robbie Walker’s in<br />

Sherwood Forest along with<br />

HeyDayz downtown are all<br />

owned by the same group<br />

and offer three different<br />

presentations on popular<br />

fish and chips. Walker’s, a long-time London<br />

original, has changed hands but remains at the<br />

same downtown location with black & white<br />

awning. The Sherwood Forest location is takeout<br />

only and serves families in the west end.<br />

HeyDayz is geared to hungry students and pub<br />

crawlers looking for some late-night food.<br />

Enjoy the “local” experience, at<br />

The Waltzing Weasel<br />

Well Served!<br />

We salute these hard<br />

working and dedicated<br />

purveyors of comfort food<br />

for maintaining — some<br />

for decades — quality<br />

food which has satisfied<br />

generations. Whether<br />

your fish and chips comes<br />

wrapped in newspaper,<br />

with bean soup or Greek<br />

salad, consider yourself<br />

well-served in this London.<br />

We’ve taken this British<br />

classic to new levels.<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is an<br />

eatdrink writer as well as Manager,<br />

Communications & Media Relations, King’s University College,<br />

Western University. Her favourite fish ‘n’ chips can be found at the end<br />

of a rod, caught in Lake Shebandowan, northwest of Thunder Bay.<br />

BRUCE FYFE is a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink.<br />

He is also Librarian, Weldon Library, Western U. Bruce was impressed<br />

by the 68-pound halibut he photographed in Archie’s freezer.<br />

Introducing...<br />

Pleased to<br />

feed you.<br />

1288 COMMISSIONERS RD W, LONDON • 519.601.3300 • byronfreehouse.ca

16 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

restaurants<br />

Veramente Artigiani<br />

at Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro in London<br />


W<br />

hen travellers<br />

reminisce about<br />

their most<br />

memorable dining<br />

experiences abroad, it is common<br />

to hear praises over the gems upon<br />

which they stumble while straying<br />

from the downtown tourist track.<br />

Having lived through this exact<br />

cliché during my recent sojourn<br />

in Milan, I am familiar with the<br />

thrill of accidentally discovering<br />

authenticity. Following a<br />

number of uninspired meals at<br />

overpriced Americanized tourist<br />

trap “ristoranti.” I finally got to<br />

experience the most delicious<br />

cliché imaginable; a meal with<br />

handmade artisan levains, pastas, and<br />

pizzas, and wines to complement every<br />

flavour, all for a fraction of the prices I’d<br />

been paying and with triple the ambiance.<br />

This sought-after experience can be found<br />

at Tuscano’s, a family owned and operated<br />

pizzeria and bistro found off the beaten<br />

path on Oxford Street, right across from<br />

Fanshawe College. Tuscano’s offers a great<br />

Tuscano’s is conveniently located on Oxford Street,<br />

right across from Fanshawe College<br />

dining experience without facing traffic,<br />

parking wars, or the event congestion that<br />

sometimes fills our streets.<br />

As Bryan Lavery, eatdrink’s Food Writer<br />

at Large, mentioned in the last issue’s<br />

article, “Has ‘Artisan’ Lost Its Meaning?”<br />

the term artisan comes from the Italian<br />

artigiano. In a food world often driven by<br />

buzz words, Robert and Shannon Donati<br />

prove that artisanal<br />

food is alive and well<br />

in London, not by<br />

following trends, but<br />

by maintaining the<br />

quality and standards<br />

to which they have<br />

always subscribed.<br />

They have been in the<br />

business for 22 years,<br />

beginning with Little<br />

Rocky’s Pizzeria on<br />

Dundas, and have<br />

Anthony Donati and Dani<br />

Woods are flanked by Robert<br />

and Shannon Donati

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 17<br />

invariably held quality as their highest<br />

priority. Luckily for London’s diners, the<br />

couple denotes quality with old world<br />

methods, fresh ingredients, handmade<br />

products, and small batch production<br />

— the very definition of artisanal. In<br />

this truly family-run business, Robert’s<br />

80-year-old mother even joins the<br />

kitchen crew on a regular basis to hand<br />

make their gnocchi, Nona-style.<br />

Shannon not only holds her post<br />

as co-owner/operator, she is also the<br />

restaurant’s skilled and dedicated<br />

pastry chef, beginning each day with<br />

from-scratch bread, pasta, and dessert<br />

preparation, only to switch gears and<br />

tend front of house for dinner service.<br />

Her desserts might seem familiar in<br />

description, but stand out amongst<br />

competitors in creativity, skill, and<br />

presentation. Items such as sticky toffee<br />

pudding, flourless chocolate cake, and<br />

tiramisu cheesecake recalibrate your<br />

impression of how these somewhat<br />

common items can and should taste.<br />

The same can be said of other menu<br />

items as well, all of which are mindfully<br />

developed and executed by the<br />

restaurant’s Chef Dani Woods, assisted<br />

by Sous Chef Mike Kerslake. For example,<br />

the local beet salad featured during<br />

Londonlicious sells itself, with the spinach<br />

and goat’s cheese accompaniment<br />

garnished with candied pecans and dried<br />

cranberries. The orange-maple brûlée<br />

dressing ties all of these compliments<br />

together with an unanticipated love tap<br />

to the taste buds. The savoury and sweet<br />

flavour notes perfectly support each other<br />

in this dish, as well as on the goat’s cheese<br />

and grape pizza.<br />

Another Londonlicious feature, worthy<br />

of the regular menu, the pizza’s sweet<br />

grapes, caramelized onions, and roasted<br />

garlic are countered by the salty goat’s<br />

cheese, crispy prosciutto, and specially<br />

sourced Galati mozzarella. This pizza is<br />

finished with a vincotto drizzle. Vincotto<br />

(cooked wine) is an artisanally produced,<br />

dark, sweet grape must reduction, which<br />

they get from Jill’s Table. The Galati cheese<br />

was specially chosen following a tour of the<br />

Windsor factory. Another family business,<br />

the Galati Cheese Company creates allnatural<br />

whole mozzarella as well as a<br />

selection of other cheeses. The tomatoes,<br />

Tuscano’s offers a wide selection of pizza toppings, available<br />

on regular or thin crust, in small or large sizes<br />

Pastas are all house-made<br />

Shannon Donati prepares a variety of desserts daily<br />

which are picked and then packed within<br />

four hours, were specially selected as well. It<br />

is clear, based on the team’s articulation of<br />

all aspects of the restaurant, from the menu<br />

to the DIY (though you would never know it)<br />

fine contemporary décor, that every minute<br />

detail is given serious contemplation before<br />

being settled upon.<br />

Following training from Chef Steve James<br />

at the London Training Centre, Chef Dani<br />

(who happens to also be the girlfriend of<br />

Shannon and Robert’s son Andrew — it truly<br />

is a family affair) has fully embraced her<br />

passion in the kitchen. She thrives in creating

18 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Chic and modern pizzeria decor, with a casual bistro atmosphere<br />

features Thursday through Saturday, making<br />

vinaigrettes and sauces, and braising meats<br />

using only the right wines for the task. “We<br />

give you the best quality we can for the fairest<br />

price,” explains Robert. Appetizers range in<br />

price from $4.50 to $12, and the individual<br />

mains don’t exceed $16. “We never cut<br />

corners and we always try to do better,” adds<br />

Robert — words of a dedicated and passionate<br />

restaurateur.<br />

Robert oversees every aspect of the 80-seat<br />

restaurant and takes care of much of the<br />

business side, but seems most at home<br />

working behind the bar. After introducing me<br />

to my new favourite red wine, an Argentinian<br />

malbec that is featured in their house-made<br />

sangria, he explained to me that they purchase<br />

through an agent as opposed to buying<br />

through the LCBO. This allows them to carry<br />

estate wines, of which only 10 to 15 000 cases<br />

are produced, all available<br />

by the glass. I enjoyed a grillo<br />

as recommended to me by<br />

our attentive server, Amy.<br />

The grillo is an Italian green<br />

grape varietal, which presents<br />

itself as a crowd pleaser. It is<br />

dry with medium acidity and<br />

would appeal to the riesling<br />

lover and the pinot grigio<br />

crowd alike. The beer drinker<br />

can expect to see Cracked<br />

Canoe, Rolling Rock, Hop<br />

City products, Moose Head,<br />

and the Italian Berretti. Fresh<br />

A cozy corner nook<br />

drink features are created in<br />

season, such as strawberry<br />

lemonade using Heeman’s<br />

strawberries, to be enjoyed<br />

on the spacious 24-seat<br />

patio, which opens in May.<br />

As I swirled and sipped,<br />

I caught the sound of the<br />

blues playing through the<br />

speakers and enquired<br />

about the (spot on) choice<br />

in music. This was the<br />

influence of their children,<br />

Andrew, Rebecca, and<br />

Anthony, all of whom<br />

are very involved in the<br />

restaurant as well. Both<br />

boys take care of many of<br />

the odds and ends while<br />

Rebecca, a student, serves part time. Robert<br />

says, “We’re only scratching the surface here.”<br />

They plan to build a bright future for their<br />

children at the restaurant, setting them up to<br />

one day take over the family business. It’s a<br />

business worthy of London’s attention.<br />

Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro<br />

1579 Oxford Street, London<br />

519-452-3737<br />

www.toscanoslondon.com<br />

monday–thursday: 11 am–10 pm<br />

friday & saturday: 11 am–11 pm<br />

closed sunday<br />

CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a Stratford Chef School graduate, a<br />

local chef, and food consultant. For enquiries, call 519-494-1061.

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Eat in or take out<br />

Dining<br />

Guide<br />

Hasbean’s<br />

International Bakery<br />

Kleiber’s Deli<br />

Manito’s Rotisserie<br />

& Sandwich Shop<br />

Nate’s Shawarma<br />

Petit Paris<br />

Sebastian’s<br />

Seoul Seafood Shoppe<br />

Tanakaya<br />

Taylor Sue’s<br />

Thai Delight<br />

The Little Red Roaster<br />

The Market Deli<br />

The New Delhi Deli<br />

The Piping Kettle Soup Co.<br />

The Rice Box<br />

The Salad Bowl<br />

Waldo’s Bistro On King<br />

Affordably Fresh, Friendly & Local<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Thursday:<br />

8am — 6pm<br />

Friday: 8am — 7:30pm<br />

Saturday: 8am — 6pm<br />

Sunday: 11am — 4pm<br />

coventmarket.com<br />


20 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

restaurants<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Quality, Craft & Discerning Taste<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra is the entrepreneur behind North Moore<br />

Catering, The River Room and the new Rhino Lounge<br />



North Moore Catering was born<br />

out of a longing. Jess Jazey-<br />

Spoelstra was working at Walkers<br />

in Tribeca, corner of North Moore<br />

St. and Varick St. (7th Ave), in Manhattan.<br />

Disenchanted with the catering at her<br />

wedding, Jazey-Spoelstra had an epiphany,<br />

and decided to launch a catering company<br />

instead of a restaurant. She and her<br />

husband Harmen, along with general<br />

manager Sandra Doyle-Holden, set about<br />

building North Moore’s status as one of the<br />

city’s foremost caterers almost entirely on<br />

word-of-mouth.<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra is a natural communicator<br />

with her finger firmly on the culinary pulse.<br />

Like any effective entrepreneur, she has a<br />

particular charisma and an innate gift for<br />

training and mentoring skilled staff that can<br />

communicate her vision and deliver it with<br />

finesse.<br />

When Jazey-Spoelstra was offered the<br />

restaurant space at Museum London for<br />

The River Room, she and Harmen were<br />

initially reluctant. However, the room and<br />

the facilities were the proper fit for a caterer<br />

with Jazey-Spoelstra’s entrepreneurial vision<br />

and creative talents. The River Room quickly<br />

became a success.<br />

Her latest project is the upscale Rhino<br />

Lounge Bakery and Coffee Shop, in the<br />

premises previously occupied by the gift shop<br />

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and her husband Harmen Spoelstra<br />

in the new Rhino Lounge within Museum London.<br />

Photo by Jesse Gibb<br />

at Museum London. The café is named after<br />

Tom Benner’s White Rhino sculpture that has<br />

stood watch on the grounds of the museum<br />

since 1987. There are plans to place patio<br />

tables on the well-manicured front lawn and<br />

guests will also be able to sit by the beautiful<br />

pond on the west side of the Museum.<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra’s sophisticated design<br />

sensibility is reflected in all her projects.<br />

It is about delivering elegance, and<br />

paying attention to detail. Smoky crystal

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 21<br />

chandeliers, with dozens of multifaceted<br />

hanging crystals, and custom-made black leather<br />

banquettes set the tenor. Designed to be multifunctional,<br />

the space can be repurposed for<br />

special and private events.<br />

The in-house scratch bakery is set to showcase<br />

pâtisseries, pies, croissants, handmade doughnuts<br />

and hand-rolled bagels. Pastry chef Michele<br />

Lenhardt’s chic dessert offerings include goat<br />

cheese cheesecake, cherry and lemon tarts and<br />

her signature chocolate pâté. The café will be<br />

licenced and the kitchen will turn out grab-and-go<br />

sandwiches, paninis, and charcuterie, and there are<br />

plans to make tapas available on Thursday nights.<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra focuses on providing innovative<br />

and cutting edge food experiences combined with<br />

extraordinary service which is her hallmark. She<br />

does not source products from the standard food<br />

suppliers but instead selects each food item to<br />

ensure quality and freshness at each event.<br />

She has a penchant for adding her own signature<br />

style by reimagining food styles and cultures.<br />

“Quality has always been my number one priority,<br />

even if it means that my prices are higher than<br />

some competitors. At caterings, we still cook all<br />

the food fresh on site with a portable kitchen.<br />

Everything is made from scratch and if we can’t<br />

keep our standards because of budget constraints<br />

or venue constraints, then we won’t do the event.”<br />

Most ingredients are sourced locally whenever<br />

possible, but some iconic staples<br />

such as smoked salmon, caviar,<br />

bagels and cream cheese are<br />

express-shipped by courier from<br />

the famed Russ & Daughters in<br />

New York. This is a testament to<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra’s desire to bring<br />

nothing but the best to her client’s<br />

table.<br />

Last May, Jazey-Spoelstra<br />

invited me to the River Room to<br />

sample Russ & Daughters hand-sliced smoked<br />

salmon, which is only available once a year (the<br />

year prior it wasn’t available at all). The coldsmoked<br />

Gaspé Nova is a primal experience due<br />

The array of North<br />

Moore Catering photos<br />

on these pages can be<br />

likened to Jess Jazey-<br />

Spoelstra’s entrepreneurial<br />

achievements.<br />

Like any successful<br />

caterer/restaurateur,<br />

she has a particular je ne<br />

sais quoi combined with<br />

an innate talent for mentoring professional staff<br />

who can communicate her culinary vision and<br />

deliver it with aplomb and finesse. Both the range<br />

and execution are impressive.

22 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

to the combination of the fattiness of the<br />

fish and the mild smokiness. She served this<br />

delicacy with double hand-whipped, eat-itby-the-spoonful,<br />

scallion-cream cheese and<br />

proper hand-made chewy bagels.<br />

We also sampled the complex and<br />

sensual mouth feel of Osetra caviar<br />

from sustainably raised Californian<br />

sturgeon. On another occasion<br />

she invited me to sample some<br />

new dishes. Well, nobody in this<br />

city does bone marrow the way the<br />

River Room does — oh, the deep<br />

and satisfying pleasure of eating<br />

pure rich hot bone marrow.<br />

Speaking of Russ & Daughters,<br />

Jazey-Spoelstra told me about an<br />

independent documentary called<br />

The Sturgeon Queens. Its recent<br />

release was timed to coincide with<br />

Russ & Daughters centennial this year.<br />

The documentary features an extensive<br />

interview with two of the daughters for<br />

whom the lox and herring emporium was<br />

named. One hundred-year-old Hattie<br />

Russ Gold and her sister, 92-year-old Anne<br />

Russ Federman, both share anecdotes<br />

that encapsulate the Jewish immigrant<br />

experience: “hard work, humour, romance,<br />

and a little tsuris (aggravation).” Other<br />

participants include the fourth generation<br />

family members who operate the shop<br />

today. The film also features<br />

Herman Vargas, aka “The Artistic<br />

Slicer,” longtime employee, now<br />

manager, who represents the new<br />

wave of immigrants behind the Russ<br />

& Daughters counter.<br />

North Moore caters cocktail<br />

parties, weddings, post-wedding<br />

brunches, dinners at your home,<br />

corporate events or any other<br />

occasion that requires a caterer.<br />

Past events have included cocktail<br />

parties with guest lists of 1500, as<br />

well as intimate dinner parties.<br />

“We are a full service catering<br />

company that takes care of the<br />

rentals, linen selection, floral, decor,<br />

backdrops, head table decor, wedding cakes<br />

and favours,” says general manager Sandra<br />

Doyle-Holden. “We assist with timeline, floor<br />

plan and planning. We take great pride in<br />

everything we do and do our best to ensure<br />

every event is perfect.”

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

presents<br />

North Moore Catering<br />

519-697-2560<br />

Venues: The River Room / Rhino Lounge www.theriverroom.ca;<br />

Museum London www.londonmuseum.on.ca; Mercedes London;<br />

Farhi Farms; Civic Garden Complex www.london.ca/civiccentre;<br />

Centennial Hall www.centennialhall.london.ca; Michael Gibson<br />

Gallery www.gibsongallery.com; Children’s Museum www.<br />

londonchildrensmuseum.ca; The Grand Theatre www.<br />

grandtheatre.com; Fanshawe Pioneer Village, Fanshawe Conservation<br />

Area, Old Century Barn.<br />

Rhino Lounge Bakery & Coffee Shoppe<br />

Museum London, Ridout Street North<br />

519-850-5111<br />

monday–sunday: 9 am–5 pm<br />

thursdays: 9 am–9 pm<br />

The River Room Café<br />

Museum London, Ridout Street North<br />

519-850-2287<br />

www.theriverroom.ca<br />

monday—friday: 9 am–4 pm<br />

sunday for brunch<br />

The River Room is also open evenings for private dining events.<br />

Hope<br />

made<br />

delicious<br />

APRIL 23<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef and eatdrink’s Food<br />

Writer at Large.<br />

in partnership with<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

List of Participating Restaurants at:<br />


24 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

culinary retail<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Merging Contemporary & Traditional<br />

at Bradshaws, in Stratford<br />


Photos by TERRY MANZO<br />

Shepherding a century-old<br />

business through economically<br />

challenging times could be a<br />

big challenge, but Jeremy and<br />

Carrie Wreford are up for it. In fact, the<br />

couple is actually enjoying the process<br />

of modernizing a venerated retail icon.<br />

Starting as a fine china and crystal<br />

shop, Bradshaws was founded in 1895<br />

by John Bradshaw. The Wreford family<br />

took over from three generations<br />

of Bradshaws in 1975 when Bill<br />

and Gordon, Jeremy’s father and<br />

grandfather respectively, purchased<br />

the store.<br />

Progressing beyond their roots is<br />

how Jeremy and Carrie are updating<br />

the store. “Reassessing lines in the<br />

store is a continuous process,” explains<br />

Carrie. “Making sure we have the right<br />

assortment of products is a constant<br />

evolution.”<br />

Part of that evolutionary process has<br />

involved adding jewelry to the store’s<br />

stock and deleting some items that have<br />

gone by the wayside over the years. “If<br />

1 — Proprietors Carry & Jeremy Wreford<br />

2 — Authentic Models Sky Hooks<br />

3 — Railway Spike Knives<br />

1<br />

2 3

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 25<br />

we’d just continued as a crystal and china<br />

store, in this marketplace we’d be in very<br />

big trouble,” explains Carrie. “It’s just not<br />

in demand the way it used to be.”<br />

Choosing to add the Pandora Jewelry<br />

line was “the best decision we ever<br />

made,” according to Carrie. It is now<br />

their best selling line, and customers<br />

who come into the store to buy<br />

bracelets, charms and watches notice<br />

the wide array of other products and<br />

become Bradshaws shoppers.<br />

Besides having an innate understanding<br />

of the business, having grown<br />

up with the Bradshaws’ heritage, Jeremy<br />

brings his experience as a set designer<br />

in the film industry. He has a great feel<br />

for what works visually for displays and<br />

the store in general. Carrie worked in the<br />

Roots Canada head office as a graphic<br />

artist, so her strength in marketing is<br />

paying off for Bradshaws.<br />

Maintaining their offerings of quality<br />

kitchenware is an emphasis for the<br />

couple. Presently, Emile Henry and<br />

Le Creuset are top-sellers, but the<br />

continuing trend toward home cooking<br />

and entertaining has convinced them<br />

to look at adding more to feed the<br />

growing demand for distinguished<br />

products. With an open concept design<br />

of kitchen/living room spaces the norm<br />

in contemporary houses, home cooks<br />

don’t want ugly pans and worn tools on<br />

display for all to see. “We stock items<br />

that look good and are very functional<br />

when you buy quality,” says Carrie.<br />

She adds that more people are following<br />

the European habit of “buying once and<br />

having it (cookware) forever.” This is a<br />

motto that the Wrefords can get behind, as<br />

they “curate” all the cookware and kitchen<br />

4— Michel Design Works Soaps & Lotions<br />

5 — Umbra Venus Jewellery Stands<br />

6 — Pottery Canoes by Susan Robertson<br />

7 — Hand Bookends by Indaba<br />

8 — Bodum Bistro Blenders<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7 8

26 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

9<br />

9 — Menu Jewellery Trees<br />

10 — Bohemia Crystal Hand Made Glass<br />

11 — Belvoir Fruit Farms Cordials<br />

12 — Once Upon a Tree Serving Boards & Bowls<br />

13 — Assorted Salad Bowls; 14 — Turkey Hill Maple Syrup<br />

11<br />

12<br />

10<br />

items sold at Bradshaws. Admitting that<br />

they have “an embarrassing amount of<br />

cookware,” the Wrefords love to cook,<br />

and many of their personal favourites are<br />

offered at the store.<br />

Travelling extensively, the couple<br />

use their trips as research and for<br />

professional development. “In Paris<br />

or London, or wherever we travel, we<br />

are always going to culinary stores. Or<br />

when we dine and something is served<br />

in a vessel we really like, we take note,”<br />

says Jeremy.<br />

Though the core of Bradshaws will<br />

always be its Ontario Street store,<br />

according to Carrie, the duo knows that<br />

the world is quickly moving toward<br />

web-based shopping. In September of<br />

last year, they launched their online<br />

store. “This is a huge opportunity to<br />

service our current customers and gain<br />

new ones instead of opening more<br />

(bricks and mortar) stores,” says Carrie.<br />

“This will be a big push for us.”<br />

Recognizing that the introduction<br />

of Wal-Mart and Target into Stratford’s<br />

retail mix will change its complexion,<br />

the couple emphasizes that whether<br />

customers are once-a-year visitors from<br />

13<br />


№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 27<br />

Bradshaws<br />

129 Ontario Street, Stratford<br />

519-271-6283<br />

www.bradshawscanada.com<br />

JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON leads the talented team of<br />

communicators at Write.On Communications, and she loves to write<br />

about life’s great joys, like food, drink and shopping.<br />

the U.S., folks from southwestern Ontario<br />

that visit during the theatre season, or<br />

locals who stop in weekly, providing<br />

excellent, personal customer service is<br />

top of mind for the Wrefords. “There are<br />

lots of places where you can go and buy<br />

a knock-off, but the shopping experience<br />

is very important and we want to give our<br />

customers the best experience they are<br />

going to have.”<br />

15<br />

TERRY MANZO is a Stratford-based photographer with a diverse<br />

and impressive client list. www.terrymanzo.com<br />

Meats & So Much More!<br />

15 — Breville Espresso Machines<br />

16 — Quality Serving Tools, Utensils & Gadgets<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

16<br />

We are your London outlet for Metzger Meat Products,<br />

The Whole Pig, Blanbrook Bison Farm and Lena’s Lamb,<br />

with sauces and spices from The Garlic Box, Pristine Olive,<br />

Stonewall Kitchen, and Traditional Portuguese Sauce.<br />

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm<br />

226-376-6328 • erin@saucymeats.com<br />

Anything Grows<br />

SEED Co.<br />

www.anythinggrows.com<br />

See us online or at The Western Fair<br />

Farmers’ Market — Every Saturday<br />

Over 600 varieties of SEED

Ontario focus. European Style.<br />


Each Beer Dinner features<br />

samples from the brewery,<br />

paired with a 4-course<br />

chef-inspired menu.<br />

Limited seating.<br />

Meet the brewery reps and<br />

talk about craft beer!<br />

BEER<br />

Dinner Series<br />

4 Courses — $60 each<br />

Book all 4 nights in advance for $200<br />

Jan 16 – Lake of Bays<br />

Feb 20 – Muskoka<br />

Mar 20 – Silversmith<br />

Apr 17 – Beau’s<br />

P<br />

DININ<br />

great for<br />

CHRI<br />

PAR<br />

NO room<br />


104 Ontario Street, Stratford | 519.271.92 02 | www.mercerhall.com<br />

Get up-to-date info on our series of exciting events! fb.com/mercerhall twitter.com/MHResto

136 Ontario Street<br />

Stratford, Ontario<br />

tel. 519.272.2828<br />

See more Easter<br />

treats online at<br />

chocolatebarrs.com<br />

Holiday hours:<br />

Open evenings ’til<br />

8 pm all Easter<br />

week long. Good<br />

Friday: closed.<br />

Open Easter Sat.<br />

from 8am to 6pm.<br />

Stratford<br />

is more<br />

than<br />

great<br />

theatre ...

30 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

spotlight<br />

History & Hometown Values<br />

Samuels Boutique Hotel and Bistro, in Goderich<br />


Photos by BRUCE FYFE<br />

Goderich’s newest boutique bistro The results she has achieved would make<br />

and hotel, Samuels, is named both Samuels proud to have their names<br />

after local men who worked attached to the enterprise. Samuel Bisset<br />

in the production of salt, milk<br />

and ice cream. Owner<br />

Kim Burgsma, with the<br />

help of her husband<br />

(and contractor) Hugh,<br />

transformed picturesque<br />

dairy farmland on the<br />

Maitland River just north<br />

of Goderich into a property<br />

with a lovely 14-room<br />

contemporary boutique<br />

hotel. Now, three years<br />

later, Burgsma has grown<br />

the culinary offerings at<br />

Samuels to include casual<br />

fine dining, sushi nights<br />

and culinary classes with<br />

Goderich native and Fanshawe<br />

Chef Scott Baechler<br />

College Chef/instructor Scott Baechler.<br />

Kim Burgsma, chef/owner of<br />

Samuels Boutique Hotel<br />

Photo by Glenn Hubbers (www.hubbers.ca)

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

and his family produced award-winning<br />

dairy products on the land for 70 years<br />

in the 1900s. The Burgsmas transformed<br />

his former silos into their unique home.<br />

Inspired, they then bought an adjacent<br />

former banquet hall and transformed it<br />

into a single hall hotel, with half the rooms<br />

facing the river — in fact you can walk<br />

to the banks and enjoy fishing or hiking.<br />

A Garden Room, which was originally<br />

Colborne Public School — a two-room late-<br />

1800s school — became a breakfast room<br />

with exposed brick walls juxtaposed with<br />

Nevada Red walls and stone accents. It is<br />

now Samuels Bistro, with full service dining<br />

and seating for 28.<br />

The other Samuel was Samuel Platt, who<br />

is credited with discovering salt in Goderich<br />

in 1866. The result was that Sifto became the<br />

town’s main industrial employer; the mine<br />

head can be seen from the hotel. Guests can<br />

hike to the Goderich harbour for a closer view<br />

or to enjoy a famous Lake Huron sunset.<br />

Continued on page 34 ...<br />

Every tastefully decorated room is accessible and has<br />

a gas fireplace, and some have Jacuzzi tubs. A secondstorey<br />

Schoolhouse Suite (below) has two bedrooms, full<br />

kitchen and a large balcony.

32 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Dine<br />

• Shop • Stay • Play<br />

Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast<br />

40th SeaSon june 25 - Sept 6, <strong>2014</strong><br />

grand bend’s historic<br />

1.877.862.5984<br />

blythfestival.com<br />

Box office opens <strong>April</strong> 1<br />

“Country Dining<br />

at Its Best”<br />

19-81 Crescent Street, Grand Bend<br />

Across from TD Canada Trust<br />

519-238-5515<br />


www.grandbendschoolhouse.ca<br />

Private<br />

Room<br />

Available<br />

The Perfect Place to Celebrate t

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 33<br />

2013 Paint Ontario Best in Show painting by Donna Andreychuk<br />


Canada’s premier juried show & sale<br />

of representational art<br />

<strong>March</strong> 8 to 30<br />


8km south of Grand Bend<br />

Open 11 am to 5 pm daily<br />

Seasonal Hours<br />

Always Closed Monday<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Named one of Ontario’s BEST<br />

“Destination Restaurants”<br />

PaintOntario.com<br />

Grand Bend Art Centre: 519-872-7824<br />

Also during <strong>March</strong>, enjoy the<br />


Visit the museum to learn about their annual migration<br />

A Fresh Take on Tradition<br />

Come for dinner<br />

or a romantic getaway<br />

on the Huron Shore<br />

Stylish German Cuisine<br />

Distinctive Accommodations<br />

Join Us for our<br />

Spring Wedding & Event Fair<br />

the last weekend in <strong>April</strong>!<br />

Re-Opening<br />

Weekends<br />

in APRIL<br />

www.hessenland.com<br />

“Evidence that you don’t have to be in<br />

a big city to create great things!”<br />

— The Globe & Mail<br />

527 Main Street, Exeter 519-235-3030<br />

30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend<br />

30 min West of Stratford<br />

www.eddingtons.ca<br />

RR #2 Zurich ON<br />

Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,<br />

1 hour from London<br />

519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736

34 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Continued from page 31 ...<br />

Bringing International Experience<br />

Home to Goderich<br />

Samuels has recently joined Ontario’s<br />

Finest Hotels, Inns & Spas. Every room has<br />

a gas fireplace. Some King Riverside suites<br />

have Jacuzzi tubs. All rooms are tastefully<br />

decorated and are accessible. A secondstorey<br />

Schoolhouse Suite has two bedrooms,<br />

full kitchen and a large balcony with a view<br />

of Goderich and the sunsets. This is where<br />

Chef Baechler offers culinary classes in the<br />

winter and spring. Baechler has over 20 years<br />

experience as an executive chef in international<br />

five star hotels across Canada and<br />

the world,<br />

including<br />

Rimrock in<br />

Banff (the<br />

only five<br />

diamond<br />

in Western<br />

Canada),<br />

The Four<br />

Seasons in<br />

Whistler,<br />

and<br />

Fairmont<br />

in Dubai.<br />

Most<br />

recently,<br />

while<br />

teaching at<br />

Fanshawe,<br />

Baechler<br />

Diners are seated in the newly renovated Garden Room<br />

(above), with its Nevada Red or exposed brick walls or, in<br />

season, on the Patio Café (below).<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

Fifty percent of the Samuels Bistro menu changes<br />

seasonally, with a creative use of local products and a<br />

love of seafood apparent. Examples (above) include:<br />

1 Coconut Curry Prawns with Basmati Rice<br />

2 Seafood Chowder with Scone<br />

3 Apple Crumble Tart

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

was part of Culinary Team Canada, winning<br />

top honours in Europe. Baechler says that<br />

Samuels’ small size creates the perfect<br />

balance. “I am a Goderich boy, it’s a great<br />

untapped destination, and people who live in<br />

Goderich work hard to protect that.”<br />

Baechler says he was drawn to Burgsma’s<br />

love of gardening and culinary. “Over the<br />

summer we have a full farmers’ market in the<br />

downtown core. It’s simply the place to be.<br />

Kim and I are hoping to do a dinner together<br />

at some point, so keep an eye out,” he teases.<br />

Burgsma is the chef at Samuels and it’s<br />

a job she clearly enjoys and excels at. Her<br />

playful approach with local Perth Pork<br />

Products results in such items as wild boar<br />

ragu and sweet candied bacon in fennel<br />

salad. Burgsma’s apple crumble pie made<br />

with Arva Four Mill flour is light and flaky.<br />

In season, she makes peach and berry<br />

pies. Fifty percent of the menu changes<br />

seasonally. She also loves seafood and<br />

features large shrimp in her chowder and<br />

in her coconut curry prawn with basmati<br />

rice. Samuels serves VQA wines and is fully<br />

licenced. The Bistro Garden Room can also<br />

be used for private functions and meetings.<br />

“I’m careful what I choose to put on the<br />

menu,” says Burgsma. “Small is not bad.”<br />

Clearly, she loves her sense of place and<br />

its history. The family has lived on the site<br />

for 33 years and daughter Holly Dalton is a<br />

local photographer. “It’s a beautiful area we<br />

have here.”<br />

Burgsma has also teamed up with another<br />

Goderich restaurant, Thyme on 21, offering<br />

guests a Culinary Adventure which includes<br />

a two-night stay, and dinners at both<br />

locations. Given the skills of Thyme’s Chef<br />

Terry Kennedy, that sounds like a delicious<br />

get-away.<br />

Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Award-Winning<br />

PRIME<br />

BEEF<br />

Burgers<br />

Quality...<br />

It’s True! Spring is around the<br />

corner and it’s time to plan<br />

your BBQ season!<br />

Also watch for new creations for the BBQ<br />

throughout this spring and summer.<br />

.<br />

Samuels Boutique Hotel<br />

34031 Saltford Rd, Goderich<br />

519-524-1371<br />

www.samuelshotel.ca<br />

JANE ANTONIAK has covered Huron County for eatdrink<br />

magazine for five years. She is also Manager, Communications &<br />

Media Relations, King’s University College, Western.<br />

BRUCE FYFE enjoys culinary photography for eatdrink. He is<br />

a Librarian at Weldon, Western University.<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.<br />

Available in London at<br />

Saucy: Meats & So Much More<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products

36 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

in the garden<br />

Never Too Many Tomatoes!<br />

Time to Get Started on Your Tomato Garden<br />


Nothing beats the flavour of a fresh<br />

picked tomato. Fresh heirloom<br />

tomatoes are so good, I am no<br />

longer tempted by any grocery<br />

store offerings—at any time of the year.<br />

Savour the flavour of the tomato while<br />

they’re in season. Out of season, the best<br />

way to enjoy tomatoes is in your own<br />

homemade sauces, either frozen or canned.<br />

These are welcome memories of summer in<br />

the middle of winter!<br />

With so many varieties of tomatoes, how<br />

can you choose? For best flavour look for<br />

heirloom seed varieties. You will not end<br />

up with the perfect, unblemished, round,<br />

tasteless tomato that grocery marketing has<br />

presented for years. What you sacrifice in<br />

looks you make up in flavour.<br />

Heirlooms<br />

What is an heirloom? An heirloom is<br />

pollinated naturally, and its seeds come up<br />

true unless cross-pollinated by bees. Some<br />

types, with names like Violet Jasper, Mortgage<br />

Lifter, Black Krim and San Marzano, have<br />

been passed down through generations. The<br />

diverse selection now available is exciting.<br />

Just a few years ago many of these varieties<br />

were almost forgotten.<br />

If you want to experience these tempting<br />

fruits at their best, you can grow them<br />

yourself. Each type offers a unique, delicious<br />

flavour profile. You can save your own<br />

tomato seeds for next year. Like peppers<br />

and eggplants, tomatoes are self-pollinating.<br />

But to avoid cross-pollination you will need<br />

to plant them with at least 50 feet between<br />

varieties — if you have the space.<br />

Colour<br />

Colour is another variable. There are<br />

beautiful reds, dark reds that are almost<br />

black, yellows, oranges and even green<br />

striped. There are different nutrients in each<br />

Red Cherry<br />

Black Krim<br />

Mortgage Lifter<br />


№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 37<br />

colour so the best choice is to eat them all!<br />

A colour mix also adds beauty to your food.<br />

Remember, we eat with our eyes, too!<br />

Varieties<br />

There are four main categories of tomatoes:<br />

beefsteak, mid-size, paste and cherry. Choose<br />

beefsteaks for the perfect bacon and tomato<br />

sandwich (just add mayo). Mid-size are a<br />

great salad size, paste offers the best texture<br />

for sauces, and cherries are ideal for braising,<br />

salads and snacking.<br />

For a continued supply of tomatoes look at<br />

maturity dates. Some varieties ripen earlier<br />

than others. Stagger maturity dates so they<br />

don’t all show up at once! This will also<br />

extend your tomato harvest season. If you<br />

find tomatoes labeled “determinate,” they are<br />

a bush variety. Determinates are also good<br />

for growing in containers. When you see<br />

“indeterminate” the plants grow more like<br />

vines and will need support. Indeterminates<br />

will produce fruit until frost brings them down.<br />

The Tomato Needs …<br />

Tomatoes like full sun, 6 to 8 hours a day.<br />

They require good soil; whatever soil you<br />

have, add compost and composted manure<br />

to ensure a well-drained, rich, open soil. Give<br />

them space to grow. Two feet apart is ideal.<br />

If your space is limited, consider container<br />

gardening. Use a large deep pot and a<br />

container soil mix with added composted<br />

manure. To finish the container, underplant<br />

your tomato with salad greens, Swiss chard<br />

or beautiful edible nasturtiums.<br />

What to Start Soon<br />

If you want to grow tomatoes, peppers,<br />

melons, onions or eggplants from seed they<br />

are best sown indoors from late February<br />

early <strong>March</strong>. To start seeds indoors you<br />

need to create an environment suited for<br />

seedlings to grow. Light, temperature and<br />

humidity are variables that are important<br />

to manage for best results. A south-facing<br />

window offers good light, but for these sunloving<br />

plants and for good healthy growth,<br />

invest in a grow light.<br />

If you want just a few plants, they are<br />

available from retailers mid-May, but don’t<br />

plant them outside until after the last chance<br />

of frost, usually May 24th. Heirloom varieties<br />

can be found at farmers’ markets.<br />

Fresh picked truly means growing your<br />

own, and it’s worth it! Whether you grow<br />

Roma<br />

Sungold Cherry<br />

Indigo Rose<br />

Brandywine<br />

your own from seed or purchase a quality<br />

heirloom plant, the value is incredible. And<br />

did I mention the flavour?<br />


Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be<br />

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,<br />

and at various gardening events around the region.

38 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

The BUZZ ... new and notable<br />

The <strong>2014</strong> London’s Local Flavour Culinary<br />

Guide is hot off the press. A project by eatdrink<br />

magazine for Tourism<br />

London, the guide<br />

provides a rich overview of the<br />

city’s breadth of exciting dining<br />

and shopping opportunities.<br />

The guide goes out to Ontario<br />

Travel Centres, London’s Tourism<br />

Information Centres, and major<br />

entry points to the city, such<br />

as the London International<br />

Airport, the VIA Rail station, the<br />

London Convention Centre, the<br />

Downtown London office, as well<br />

as at dozens of local businesses,<br />

libraries and the farmers’ markets. It’s<br />

also available online, with links both<br />

on the Tourism London website and<br />

the eatdrink site. For information on<br />

outstanding local restaurants, culinary<br />

retailers, and our farmers’ markets, there is<br />

no more comprehensive resource available.<br />

Get your copy; it’s a keeper. For a view of the guide and more, go<br />

to www.londontourism.ca/culinary<br />

<strong>2014</strong><br />

LONDON’S<br />

Local<br />

Flavour<br />

20<br />

14<br />

Restaurants • Culinary Retail<br />

Farmers’ Markets • Food Festivals<br />

londontourism.ca<br />

Local<br />

Flavour<br />

Served Here<br />

London’s Garlic’s of London and La<br />

Casa are both celebrating 20 years in<br />

business. Marienbad and Chaucer’s<br />

Pub will be celebrating their 40th<br />

anniversary this June. Heartfelt<br />

congratulations all around.<br />

Wen Bei Li’s Chinese Five<br />

Fortune Club Restaurant and<br />

arts and culture centre is expected<br />

to open in early <strong>March</strong> at the<br />

southeast corner of Richmond and<br />

King Street. The cuisine will be a<br />

combination of Yunnan, Sichuan<br />

and Guizhou influences.<br />

The Japanese-inspired Sakata<br />

Bar and Grill has opened in<br />

the premises that Blue Ginger<br />

previously occupied on Richmond Street.<br />

SINCE 1819<br />

AT THE<br />


6<br />

Days<br />

a<br />

Week<br />

Closed Mondays<br />

Local, Artisan & Natural Products<br />

from producers such as The Garlic Box & Gunn’s Hill Cheese<br />

Local Natural & Certified Organic Frozen Meats<br />

Beef • Poultry • Pork • Bison • Water Buffalo • Deli Meats<br />

Wild-caught Salmon, Halibut, Scallops & Tuna<br />

Coffee • Tea • Frozen Wheatgrass Juice<br />

A Variety of Gluten-free Products<br />

OUTLET<br />

Local Cheeses • Certified Organic Frozen Vegetables<br />

Gourmet Sauces • Olive Oils • Preserves • Natural Soaps & Skincare Products<br />

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON • 519-601-6456<br />


№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 39<br />

Meals on Wheels will be holding their annual event, called<br />

“Walk for Wheels,” at Covent Garden Market, upstairs on<br />

the Mezzanine on <strong>March</strong> 28th from 2-4 p.m.<br />

The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market operated by<br />

Christine Sheer is London’s only 100% producer-based<br />

market. This means that every vendor at the market sells what<br />

they grow, raise, bake, and preserve themselves. For more info<br />

about The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market, including recipes<br />

and special events, go to the farmers’ market blog, at<br />

www.coventgardenfarmersmarket.com<br />

UpFront at the Market, in the southwest corner of Covent<br />

Garden Market, and Café One on Richmond Street both<br />

closed in February.<br />

and gluten-free options. The focus is on flavour, not heat, but<br />

home-made hot sauce is available. 561 Southdale Rd Unit 9c.,<br />

226-663-8452<br />

The Curry Garden Restaurant has relocated. It is now south<br />

of King Street on Richmond in the premises formerly occupied<br />

by Los Comales. The Asian Buffet is relocating in the<br />

premises formerly occupied by the Curry Garden Restaurant.<br />

The <strong>2014</strong> seed season has started. Rick Weingarden and<br />

Allan Watts, from Anything Grows SEED Company,<br />

a permanent vendor at the Western Fair Farmers’ &<br />

The new brain child of The Wolfe Brothers, “Rock Au Taco,”<br />

next door to the Early Bird Diner, is serving up delicious and<br />

authentic tacos and Mexican cuisine, ice cold cervezas, and<br />

smooth tequila. www.theearlybird.ca<br />

The Root Cellar, an organic café, bakery and juice bar in<br />

Old East Village is expanding into the neighbouring premises<br />

at 621 Dundas Street. The cafe is an offshoot of On the<br />

Move Organics, a local company that unites people to local<br />

certified organic food producers through its home delivery<br />

service, its operations at Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’<br />

Market, and the Dundas Street café. When completed this<br />

spring the dining room will have tripled in size. In warm<br />

weather diners will be able to enjoy the sidewalk patio.<br />

www.fb.com/TheRootCellarOrganicCafe<br />

Locomotive Espresso opened their doors mid-February<br />

and is looking to fill a growing worldwide thirst for local,<br />

independent coffee bars serving the highest quality<br />

beverages. Locomotive is located at the corner of Pall Mall and<br />

Colborne (at the railroad tracks), in the former Helen’s Variety.<br />

Los Comales, known for its Mexican and Latin American<br />

food, has reopened for casual dining or take-out with delivery<br />

to be offered in the future. It offers many vegetarian, vegan<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course<br />

prix fixe menu<br />

option<br />

432 Richmond St.<br />

at Carling • London<br />

London’s Celebration Destination<br />

31<br />

Lunch Weekdays<br />

Dinner 7 Nights a Week<br />

1 York Street<br />

(just West of Ridout)<br />

519-672-0111<br />

Continental cuisine – with a<br />

contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. Baby Grand Pianist Nightly<br />

From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Complimentary On Site Parking<br />

Michael’s makes your celebration an event. www.michaelsonthethames.com<br />


40 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Artisan’s Market on Saturdays, have hard-to-find seeds<br />

and organic sprouting seeds available year round. With<br />

a larger space, anything grows has expanded into other<br />

categories: bird feeders, gloves, potted arrangements,<br />

flower bulbs, sprout growers and hand-weeders, just<br />

to name a few. This spring, enjoy the Anything Grows<br />

advantage: A choice of five great seed suppliers — along<br />

with their favourite gardening supplies — all available in<br />

one spot. Whether you are a discerning veteran gardener<br />

or an enthusiastic beginner, get the seed varieties you’re<br />

looking for quickly and easily. www.anythinggrows.com<br />





SUN BRUNCH, 11–4<br />



for Private Dining, Weddings, Corporate Events,<br />

Anniversary Dinners & Birthday Parties<br />


theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Hope made Delicious. A Taste for Life Participating Taste<br />

restaurants open their doors on Wednesday <strong>April</strong> 23rd and<br />

donate 25% of the evening sales to AIDS Service Organizations<br />

in the community. Support the men, women and children in<br />

your community by going out to dinner. A Taste for Life serves<br />

the regions of Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton and<br />

Middlesex counties. Monforte on Wellington will be joining<br />

Molly Blooms and Foster’s Inn in Stratford this year.<br />

www.atasteforlife.org/london.htm<br />

Chef Brian Magee will be opening FLAVURS Artisan<br />

Kitchen & Bar in the premises formerly occupied by Smoke-<br />

N-Bones on Wellington Road South at Southdale. The locallysourced<br />

menus will find inspiration in updated versions of<br />

globally inspired street food. FLAVURS will serve breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner.<br />

Owner Jim Agathos’s The Dancing Greek (formerly the<br />

Huron House) has closed. Agathos’s grandson Zack is<br />

opening the Icarus Resto Bar in the premises formerly<br />

occupied by the Coffee Culture on Richmond Street. The<br />

Mediterranean-themed restaurant will have an open kitchen<br />

and is expected to open in late <strong>March</strong> or early <strong>April</strong>.<br />

Food Trucks<br />

Last year London City Council agreed to get public feedback<br />

on a proposed program to allow new-style food trucks. The<br />

current bylaw was drafted to deal with catering trucks, hotdog<br />

carts and other vendors that have traditionally been confined<br />

to private parking lots and special events.<br />

The City has revised their initial food truck plan, and<br />

proposed a much less restrictive version that balances<br />

the interests of stakeholders and encourages a vibrant<br />

street food experience for the public. However, there are<br />

restrictions. There is expected to be a 25-metre buffer zone<br />

separating food trucks from existing restaurants. They<br />

will also be required to stay clear of schools, which have<br />

healthful-food guidelines.<br />

In the meantime, an impartial food truck advisory review<br />

panel made up of volunteer representatives (based on<br />

London’s Urban Design Peer Review Panel) is being formed to<br />

Enjoy a FREE Tasting Experience<br />

Freshly milled extra virgin olive oils<br />

from our award-winning producers,<br />

sourced directly by Olive-Me.<br />

Discover<br />

Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bar YOUR Favourites!<br />

1570 Hyde Park Road • Unit #7 • London<br />

519-471-OLIV (6548) • www.olivemeco.com<br />

Private<br />

Tasting<br />

Parties<br />

Gift Boxes & Custom Sample Packs<br />

Make the Perfect Corporate Gift<br />

or Wedding Favour.<br />

custom labeling is available.<br />

Over<br />

50<br />

Lab-Tested Olive Oils<br />

Varieties<br />

with full chemistry analysis

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

provide expert opinion and recommendations regarding food<br />

truck strategy in London.<br />

In addition, the panel will be charged with encouraging<br />

culturally diverse and original menu offerings, and<br />

endorsing the promotion of healthy eating. Vendors would<br />

be encouraged to be innovative and consider focusing on a<br />

variety of nutritious, seasonal, fresh and local ingredients.<br />

At the moment it appears that there will be no selection<br />

criteria based on proposed menu offerings, business plan,<br />

innovation, and level of vendor experience or overall impact<br />

to London’s food truck/street food culture. However, it is too<br />

early to try to define what that culture should look like, and<br />

consumers will ultimately determine its future and success.<br />

Out-of-Town<br />

Chris and Mary Woolf have returned to St. Marys. Little<br />

Red’s Pub and Eatery opened in mid- February, at 159<br />

Queen Street. The Woolfs always made a trip to the former<br />

Woolfy’s well worth the drive. www.woolfys.com<br />

Paint Ontario is a project of the Grand Bend Art Centre<br />

and runs <strong>March</strong> 8–30. This 18th annual juried show of<br />

representational art is a competition, an exhibition, and a<br />

sale, and is being held in the Lambton Heritage Museum<br />

in Grand Bend. www.paintontario.com<br />

Chef Gus Merkies from the Schoolhouse Restaurant in<br />

Grand Bend has introduced a new menu and added a Prix<br />

Fixe dinner menu. He will also be participating in the second<br />

annual Arts, Eats and Beats weekend featuring local artists,<br />

chef-inspired eats and live music, in May.<br />

www.grandbendschoolhouse.ca<br />



May 2, 3 & 4<br />

www.londonstudiotour.ca<br />

Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743<br />

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed<br />

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine<br />

The Hessenland Country Inn reopens for the weekends in<br />

<strong>April</strong>, with their annual Spring Wedding and Event Fair<br />

the last weekend of that month. Hessenland, famous for Chef<br />

Frank Ihrig’s innovative German-style cuisine, is located along<br />

the shores of Lake Huron between Bayfield and Grand Bend, just<br />

outside the hamlet of St. Joseph. www.hessenland.com<br />

Chef/Owner James Eddington advises us that his<br />

Eddington’s of Exeter restaurant will be closed <strong>March</strong> 9–24<br />

for renovations. Selected by the province of Ontario as one of<br />

our best “destination restaurants” in the Days Out Ontario<br />

program, Eddington’s has long been satisfying appreciative<br />

diners with seasonal menus using local producers, and is well<br />

deserving of this honour. Exeter is a pleasant 30-minute drive<br />

north of London. www.eddingtons.ca<br />

While the past few months of severe winter weather have put<br />

a damper on things for a number of restaurants, Rich Hunter<br />

of The King Edward pub in Ilderton reports especially brisk<br />

business, in part due to their proximity to an excellent snowmobile<br />

trail. Glad to hear it, Rich! www.thekingedward.com<br />

• Vegetarian<br />

Options<br />

• Takeout<br />

• Catering<br />

• Reservations<br />

Recommended<br />

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant<br />

Tues–Fri 5–1pm • Sat 12–1pm • Sun 2–1pm<br />

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222<br />


Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Stratford<br />

The Bakery at Pazzo closed in mid-February. The owners<br />

of Pazzo are looking forward to unveiling a brand new Pazzo<br />

experience this <strong>April</strong>.<br />

Rundles has announced that it will be open for its 37th season<br />

from May 23 to September 20, <strong>2014</strong>. www.rundlesrestaurant.com<br />

The Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival,<br />

usually held in September, will take place earlier this year, on<br />

the weekend of July 18–20.,This has become one of Ontario’s<br />

largest food festivals, and celebrates local cuisine, talented chefs<br />

and passionate food producers. www.savourstratford.com<br />

The restaurant and lounge are now open at The Bruce. The<br />

hotel will be opening May 24th. The Restaurant is open for dinner<br />

Thursday through Saturday at 5:00 pm with the last reservation at<br />

9:00 p.m.; The Lounge is open late night. www.thebruce.ca<br />

There’s always a lot going on at Mercer Hall. The Craft Beer<br />

Dinner Series continues, with Silversmith on Mar 20th and<br />

Beau’s on <strong>April</strong> 17th. Includes a 4-course chef-inspired menu<br />

& four 10 oz. craft brews! Limited seating, meet the brewery<br />

reps and talk about craft beer. www.mercerhall.ca<br />

Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting: Cider and Cheese.<br />

Sample some of the newest offerings from the LCBO, perfectly<br />

paired with a selection of exciting cheeses. The Milky Whey<br />

Fine Cheese Shop, 118 Ontario Street. Saturday <strong>March</strong> 29,<br />

Celebrating our 20 th Anniversary<br />

481 Richmond Street, London<br />


№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

<strong>2014</strong> themilkywhey@rogers.com www.themilkywhey.ca<br />

Craft Beer Dinner Series: Taste and learn about some tasty<br />

local craft beer. Keith from Beau’s All Natural brings his<br />

knowledge and love of beer to the long tabled dinner of 4<br />

courses paired with 4 craft brews. Mercer Hall, 104 Ontario<br />

Street. Thursday, <strong>April</strong> 17 <strong>2014</strong> www.mercerhall.com<br />

Take a self-guided taste of maple delights at various food<br />

shops and restaurants on the Savour Stratford Maple Trail<br />

this spring. More info at www.visitstratford.ca/mapletrail<br />

GE CAFÉ Chef Cooking Class Series is back. Join celebrated<br />

chefs in the kitchen for an exclusive hands-on cooking<br />

experience. Pairings of alcoholic beverages are served with<br />

each lunch. Take-home recipes are included. Overnight<br />

packages are available and tickets can be purchased online at<br />

www.visitstratford.ca/gechefs<br />

From the Field<br />

to Our Kitchen to<br />

EST. 1996<br />

Your Table<br />

Local Ontario Ingredients<br />

Non-GMO • Organic Lines<br />

Canning Classes<br />

Wedding Favours & Gift Baskets Available<br />

London, Ontario<br />

519-680-7912 • surelyhomemade.com<br />

fb.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

twitter.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Our readers want to know, so send us info about your<br />

culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. We’ll print<br />

as much as we can, and there is no charge for this service.<br />

With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to:<br />

editor@eatdrink.ca.<br />

Express Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking<br />

bistro & caterer<br />

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com

44 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

kitchen design<br />

When an “Old” Kitchen Is the Goal<br />

Keeping your kitchen design consistent with the rest of your home<br />


Old Castle Renovations specializes in<br />

old house — and century home —<br />

renovations and<br />

restorations.<br />

“Your home is at the centre<br />

of your family’s life,” says<br />

Old Castle President Mike<br />

Hodgson. “And the kitchen<br />

is the centre of your home.”<br />

Over 80% of the houses<br />

Hodgson renovates are<br />

50 to 120 years old, which<br />

brings unique challenges.<br />

Many homeowners are not<br />

looking to plunk a modern,<br />

minimalist kitchen into<br />

their traditional home. They<br />

want a consistent style that<br />

enhances the look and feel<br />

of the rest of the house, but<br />

of course they don’t want<br />

to sacrifice the benefits of<br />

contemporary technology<br />

and equipment. Cast iron<br />

and galvanized plumbing<br />

needs to be replaced, jacking,<br />

levelling and underpinning<br />

of foundations is sometimes<br />

necessary, and plenty more,<br />

and that’s before addressing<br />

the other important issue<br />

of what the final project will<br />

look like.<br />

“Building modern kitchen<br />

amenities into an old or<br />

historic home without<br />

disturbing its original<br />

architectural integrity is one<br />

of the most difficult tasks<br />

in a home renovation,” says<br />

Hodgson. “We seamlessly<br />

incorporate these technologies<br />

BEFORE<br />

1960s renovation<br />

A wall oven, the height of fashion when this century home was<br />

renovated in the 1960s, went out of favour for awhile. While large restaurantstyle<br />

ranges are centrepieces in many modern kitchens, this microwave/<br />

double oven combo works beautifully in this traditional space.

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 45<br />

A built-in dinette with inviting curves fits perfectly at<br />

the head of basement stairs, with the half-wall making<br />

a vast improvement over the railing that was there<br />

previously. Millwork matching the cabinetry finishes<br />

the look, and under-seat storage drawers are accessible<br />

from the ends of the bench. A ball-footed pedastal table<br />

with a beautifully simple top eases access to the seating<br />

and custom-made damask-covered cushions reflect the<br />

cabinet and wall colours. A rustic pendant light, Persianstyle<br />

carpet and simple drapes and wall accents add<br />

character and charm to this inviting corner of the kitchen.<br />

into your older home without destroying its<br />

irreplaceable identity.” Repairing or replacing<br />

period mouldings, recreating historic casings<br />

to match existing woodwork, refreshing<br />

antique hardware ... all can be critical to the<br />

result. “It is possible to enjoy the comfort and<br />

modern conveniences while living in a period<br />

dwelling,” says Hodgson, who confesses this<br />

work is his passion. “Alternatively, we have<br />

modernized the look of many older houses<br />

into open, free-flowing environments that<br />

maximize the use of space.”<br />

Understanding the challenges involved<br />

in any renovation, and working to minimize<br />

those, is Hodgson’s responsibility. But<br />

before that begins, he first needs to get<br />

the contract for the job. A free in-home<br />

design consultation is part of the process,<br />

and Hodgson is glad to offer this to anyone<br />

exploring a kitchen or home renovation, but<br />

®<br />


No Chemicals • Safer • Faster • Easier • 519-859-2508<br />


46 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Black and White is a timeless design<br />

motif, but in an older home, a slightly<br />

softer palette proves more fitting. The<br />

off-white low-sheen paint on the cabinetry<br />

contrasts effectively with the deep grey<br />

quartz countertops buffed to a high gloss.<br />

A white subway tile backsplash bridges<br />

the two surfaces effectively and adds a<br />

further textural element to the space,<br />

as do the placement of just a few glassfronted<br />

upper cabinets. A family-friendly<br />

hardwood floor completes the classic<br />

combination of materials.<br />

The cabinetry features a simple profile and<br />

appropriate brushed nickel hardware. The<br />

dishwasher and cooktop hood are tastefully<br />

concealed, letting small but elegant details<br />

such as the arches above the “barely there”<br />

cooktop and double sink (mimicked in the<br />

island’s open shelving) shine. The large<br />

corbels that define the two work zones are<br />

the grandest statement in the room, but<br />

they too are tastefully discrete in style, as<br />

are the small flares in the countertop edge<br />

that parallel the corbels.<br />

Crown moulding not only looks good in its<br />

own right, it can also mask the variances in<br />

ceiling height and crooked walls that are<br />

so common in older homes. Craftsmanship<br />

is key to disguising the issue rather than<br />

highlighting it with unseemly gaps.

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 47<br />

he encourages homeowners to take the lead<br />

initially. “If you are interested in renovating<br />

your kitchen, buy yourself a binder and start<br />

filling it with ideas. You will be amazed how<br />

quickly the style you are looking for comes<br />

together, followed by a wish list. Once you<br />

have the style and your wish list in hand, the<br />

next item on your list will be the budget.”<br />

A work-area needs analysis and<br />

establishing a budget are key to developing<br />

a proposal. How much to spend is the<br />

big question for most homeowners, and<br />

Hodgson encourages them to consider<br />

how long they intend on living in their<br />

home, and how much they can reasonably<br />

expect to get back when selling the house.<br />

Once the homeowner is comfortable with a<br />

figure, the detailed kitchen design process<br />

can begin. “There is nothing to gain by<br />

giving a client a design that they cannot<br />

afford,” says Hodgson.<br />

If everything is a go, then complete site<br />

measurements are taken and a design<br />

development with 3D renderings is<br />

completed. Product selection consultations<br />

ensue, and before any work begins,<br />

itemized project costing ensures everyone<br />

is on the same page. Expectations are<br />

clearly laid out, and while unforeseen<br />

issues can crop up, particularly when<br />

renovating an older home, the goal is “no<br />

surprises.” Hodgson is frank. “Be prepared<br />

for your life to be interrupted during this<br />

process,” he says. “But remember what the<br />

goal is, and it will all be worth it in the end.”<br />

Hodgson includes a gallery of past<br />

projects on the Old Castle website (www.<br />

old-castle.ca), and each have their own<br />

story. The kitchen shown in this article is<br />

in part a restoration of work that was done<br />

over a century ago. This Old North London<br />

home “suffered” a 1960s renovation,<br />

but Hodgson talks excitedly about the<br />

inspiration he got seeing the original<br />

blueprints for the home, first built for one<br />

of the Blackburn family, founding owners<br />

of the London Free Press. “They were<br />

beautiful,” he says earnestly. It is clear the<br />

past is important to him.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL is the publisher of eatdrink. His binder<br />

of ideas for his 50-year-old kitchen is getting dated.<br />

Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares,<br />

tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.<br />

115 King Street, London<br />

519-645-1335 www.jillstable.ca<br />

London’s<br />

Kitchen<br />

Renovation<br />

Specialists<br />

Kitchens<br />

Bathrooms<br />

Large Additions<br />

Victorian Restorations<br />

519.860.9640<br />


48 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

wine<br />

Biodynamic and Organic Wines<br />

Discover them in Ontario<br />


It seems as though the technological<br />

age may have come full circle. As a<br />

society we are looking back to our roots<br />

in many different areas of our lives.<br />

We seem to be more aware of the cycles of<br />

nature and the importance of taking care of<br />

our planet. In the realm of viniculture, three<br />

grape producers in Ontario are certified<br />

to sell organic wines and two are able to<br />

market their wines as biodynamic.<br />

To be certified ‘organic’, you must prove<br />

that your farm is free of synthetic pesticides<br />

and preservatives, chemical fertilizers,<br />

hormones, antibiotics and genetically<br />

modified organisms; demonstrate the<br />

humane treatment of animals and the<br />

preservation of ecological integrity; and<br />

maintain and record these practices for 36<br />

months prior to certification. In addition, an<br />

application for certification must be made<br />

15 months before you intend to market your<br />

first wine.<br />

If that doesn’t sound complicated enough,<br />

there are five different certifying bodies in<br />

Ontario to choose from. Each is recognized<br />

by the Ministry of Food and Agriculture, and<br />

certifies all kinds of products, not just wine.<br />

Oddly, our three wineries are each certified<br />

by a different agency.<br />

Southbrook Vineyards green commitment includes using sheep<br />

for weed and bug removal in the spring and early summer<br />

Fruits o;f the vine, at Frogpond Farm<br />

Frogpond Farm Organic Winery<br />

This renowned Niagara-on-the-Lake<br />

property was the first winery in Ontario to be<br />

certified organic. The producers chose to be<br />

represented by “The Organic Crop Producers<br />

and Processors.” Frogpond’s tagline is<br />

“Harmony in nature is the prerequisite for<br />

truly authentic wine.” It’s obvious they take<br />

this mantra to heart — they have<br />

been Bullfrog-powered since<br />

2006, using 100% green electricity<br />

which is produced by wind and<br />

low-impact water power.<br />

Southbrook Vineyards<br />

and Tawse Winery<br />

The next two wineries are certified<br />

as both organic and biodynamic.<br />

One must first be certified as<br />

organic before transitioning<br />

to biodynamic. Biodynamic<br />

farming was the brainchild of<br />

Rudolf Steiner, the father of the

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 49<br />

Waldorf Schools. Biodynamic farming is<br />

practised in over fifty countries worldwide. It<br />

encompasses all of the properties of organic<br />

farming, and then some.<br />

Biodynamics takes organic farming to<br />

the next level. The whole farm is treated as<br />

a living entity and holistic ecosystem, from<br />

the rumbles of the earth beneath to the<br />

stars far above. Biodynamic farmers track<br />

the movement of the stars and the moon to<br />

determine when to sow and when to reap.<br />

In Berlin, Germany, in 1927, Demeter<br />

International became recognized as the one<br />

and only governing body for biodynamic<br />

certification worldwide. This organization<br />

is named after Demeter, the goddess of the<br />

harvest in ancient Greek religion and myth.<br />

Both Southbrook Vineyards and Tawse<br />

hold dual certification. They’ve earned two<br />

different Ontario organic certifications,<br />

and also hold worldwide designation for<br />

biodynamic farming.<br />

Southbrook Vineyards is a sprawling<br />

150-acre estate in Niagara-on-the-Lake,<br />

owned by Bill and Marilyn Redelmeier.<br />

Their mission statement is “To make the<br />

finest wines possible in a respectful, local,<br />

light-on-the-land fashion.” Their organic<br />

certification board of choice is “Pro-Cert<br />

Organics.” Southbrook has the distinction of<br />

being the first wine estate in Canada to earn<br />

both organic and biodynamic certification<br />

for vineyard and winery back in 2008.<br />

Southbrook has been awarded LEED®<br />

Gold certification for its buildings, grounds<br />

and activities, including the creation of a<br />

bioswale with native wetland plants to break<br />

down pollution from stormwater draining<br />

off the access road and parking lots.<br />

And yet another first for this scribe:<br />

Bioflavia. It is an Organic Red Wine Grape<br />

Tawse Winery, from the<br />

vineyard endposts<br />

Skin Powder considered new and innovative<br />

on the market. This product is an excellent<br />

source of antioxidants required for the<br />

maintenance of good health. It was featured<br />

on the Dr. Oz show and is made and sold<br />

right here in southern Ontario. All the health<br />

benefits of red wine in powder form in a jar,<br />

with no alcohol! Wait a minute ...<br />

Tawse Winery’s organic certification<br />

was provided by Ecocert. With winemaker<br />

Paul Pender at the helm, Tawse has won a<br />

bedazzling number of prestigious Ontario<br />

wine awards, including 2011 Winemaker of<br />

the Year at the Ontario Wine Awards. Maybe<br />

this is because Pender treats the whole farm<br />

as a single living organism. Composts are<br />

specially prepared for each crop, herbal<br />

teas are added to the soil, and the activity of<br />

his farm is aligned to that of the earth, the<br />

moon and the stars. And it works! Organic<br />

and biodynamic wineries are consistently<br />

winning more and more medals in the<br />

international wine community. The quality<br />

of the product speaks for itself.<br />

Consider reducing your carbon footprint<br />

by enjoying organic and biodynamic wines<br />

grown right here in Ontario.<br />

Frogpond Farm Organic Winery<br />

1385 Larkin Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake<br />

www.frogpondfarm.ca<br />

Southbrook Vineyards<br />

581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake<br />

www.southbrook.com<br />

Tawse Winery<br />

3955 Cherry Avenue, Vineland<br />

www.tawsewinery.ca<br />

The view from the back of Southbrook’s<br />

LEED-certifed building overlooks the vines<br />

KIM MILLER lives in London with her spouse and two children.<br />

This is why she studies the many attributes of wine...

50 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />


beer matters<br />

Those Marvellous Mutts<br />

The Wonders of Hybrid Beers<br />


At a favourite craft beer oasis<br />

recently I was presented with a<br />

prime sampling of what I had<br />

been craving for a while. It was a<br />

hybrid style not often seen on tap and it hit<br />

the spot! It also got me thinking about this<br />

whole genre of beers, which do not get the<br />

esteem due them nor enough exposure in<br />

the local craft brew market. Many ale purists<br />

pass these styles by, the same way a mongrel<br />

dog is shunned by pedigree fanciers. For my<br />

tastes the hybrid beers are wonderful mutts<br />

that just need an opportunity to become a<br />

best of breed winner.<br />

Hybrids are beers that, unlike Kim Mitchell’s<br />

dilemma, don’t make you “choose between<br />

lager and ale.” They are both. Some were born<br />

out of necessity, some from fine tradition,<br />

some the result of brewer innovation. Hybrid<br />

beers sometimes have lager character with<br />

ale flavour, and sometimes ale character with<br />

lager flavour. In any case, they are in a unique<br />

niche that straddles the line between the two<br />

macrocosms of the beer universe. Hybrid<br />

beers can be a good choice for beer drinkers<br />

who like the flavour of big ales but not the<br />

sharp character, and for ale drinkers who<br />

want a smoother alternative which drinks<br />

well in a sitting.<br />

Let’s look at what makes hybrids<br />

so special, avoiding an eye-rolling<br />

microbiology lesson. Simply put, a<br />

hybrid is the result of changing either<br />

the traditional brewing method for a<br />

given style, or the type of yeast used<br />

in an ale or lager recipe. Lagers have<br />

a process which requires a long cold<br />

secondary fermentation and a coldtolerant<br />

yeast. Ale is brewed at warm<br />

temperatures and uses yeast which<br />

performs best at warm temperatures.<br />

It is finished in a warmer environment,<br />

and ready sooner than lager. This<br />

gives it some wonderful fruity tastes and<br />

aromas, but also a sharp and distinctly fresh<br />

character. Lager’s cold fermenting and long<br />

cold conditioning gives a mellow rounded<br />

brew with malty-earthy character and no<br />

fruity aroma. So, when a brewer pitches<br />

warm fermenting ale yeast at cooler lager<br />

temperatures or pitches a cold fermenting<br />

lager yeast at warm temperatures, or cold<br />

ages an ale or warm conditions a lager, we<br />

get hybridization and a beer which displays<br />

elements of both types of beers.<br />

Some common hybrids in the lighter<br />

end of the genre are Kölsch, cream ale, and<br />

American pilsner. Kölsch is a cold lagered<br />

German pale ale made with Pilsner malt.<br />

Cream ale is a North American innovation —a<br />

golden ale is cold fermented or pitched with<br />

a hybrid strain of yeast. American pilsner<br />

is listed as a hybrid in the style guides but<br />

from my perspective it is just a debasement<br />

of Czech pilsner that uses gristed corn and/<br />

or rice adjuncts. The local craft beer market<br />

has a number of examples of these the<br />

lighter hybrids but not the darker, more<br />

robust hybrids. My preference gravitates<br />

to the darker, more substantial side of<br />

the hybrid genre. One of these darker<br />

hybrids is the copper coloured historic<br />

brew from the Dusseldorf region of<br />

Germany called Altbier. The other is<br />

“California common” aka “steam beer.”<br />

Both are among my preferred pub quaffs<br />

because they are balanced, flavourful<br />

and drink wonderfully alone or paired<br />

with a wide variety of foods.<br />

Altbier is a long time favourite and I have

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 51<br />

written about the style’s origins at length here,<br />

so I won’t dwell on that aspect as much as the<br />

character of the style, and a wonderful<br />

sub-class called sticke alt. The word<br />

“alt” means old in German, so<br />

altbier refers to an old style of beer<br />

that traces its origin to the days<br />

before lager brewing in Germany.<br />

Alts are amber ales, from the use<br />

of Munich malts. They have a bit of<br />

rich complexity in their malt profile<br />

similar to a Dunkel but with distinct<br />

nut-like earthy flavours. Alt is<br />

usually dry finishing and has a good<br />

amount of bittering hops, with some<br />

examples showing relatively potent<br />

hopping. This is essentially an amber<br />

ale fermented cold (with hybrid<br />

yeast) and cold conditioned (aged)<br />

like lager — thus the mellow malty<br />

flavour, yet dry and hoppy. A firstrate<br />

quaff and very easy drinking.<br />

Commonly available examples are Duckstein<br />

Alt, Beau’s great Festivale Alt, True North<br />

Copper Altbier and Creemore’s excellent<br />

Collaboration Altbier.<br />

A variation called sticke or “secret alt” is<br />

bigger and bolder in flavour and strength.<br />

It was historically called a secret beer<br />

because it was usually an exceptionally good<br />

batch of Altbier the brewer held back for<br />

himself and friends. Later it was released<br />

to customers (only twice a year) but the<br />

recipe was “secret.” Sticke alt is altbier on<br />

steroids, originally a brewer’s mistake in<br />

using too much malt and hops, sticke alt is<br />

a more intense dose of all the traditional alt<br />

facets — full-bodied, well-hopped, perfect<br />

balance between bitterness and nutty-malty<br />

sweetness, strong notes of chocolate and<br />

toasted grains, deep copper colour with<br />

complexity of an ale, aromatic hop aroma<br />

and the heading of a pilsner, yet the clean<br />

dry finish and sturdy body of an Oktoberfest<br />

marzen. It is to amber ale what bockbier is<br />

to lagers. I love this beer style and buy up<br />

all I can when it is available. We have only a<br />

couple of sticke altbiers made domestically<br />

— Beau’s Festivale Plus (which is a<br />

superbly balanced malt bomb) and Les<br />

Trois Mousquetaires S.S. Sticke Alt from<br />

Quebec — a highly-rated beer available in<br />

limited quantity once a year.<br />

Sun–Tues 11am–midnight, Wed/Thurs 11am–1am, Fri/Sat 11am–2am

52 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

For even more intense sticke altbier tastes<br />

there is a “dopplesticke.” A double altbier<br />

brewed to imperial strengths (8–9% abv) in<br />

small batches (comparable to a Dopplebock<br />

lager), this rare hybrid brew usually is not<br />

available except through import. Too bad — I<br />

think it would give a lot of imperial ales some<br />

major competition in this market.<br />

Finally we come to another North American<br />

hybrid — “steam beer” or California common.<br />

This style was the result of necessity and pioneer<br />

brewer innovation, born in the era of the<br />

California gold rush when lager was the new<br />

rage and the frontier lacked the ice, cold water<br />

and cold cellaring to make lager properly.<br />

Frontier brewers used large open fermenting<br />

pans to cool the beer wort quickly to pitch<br />

the heat-intolerant lager yeast. Lots of steam<br />

escaped from these pans. They then fermented<br />

the lager yeast at warm temperatures and aged<br />

it at warmer temperatures. This warm aging<br />

made a very effervescent brew with profuse<br />

carbonation that gave the beer a large frothy<br />

head. It was also well hopped to cover some<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

of the nasty tastes in frontier water. The style<br />

was almost defunct until resurrected by modern<br />

west coast craft brewers. The new crafted<br />

variation of steam beer genre is referred to as<br />

“California common” and was pioneered by<br />

Anchor Brewing of San Francisco.<br />

Generally, crafted steam beer is light<br />

amber to copper in colour, lightly fruity,<br />

moderately malty with firm hop bitterness.<br />

The malt character is usually toasty and<br />

caramelly. Hop qualities feature woody, rustic,<br />

minty discernment. Medium bodied, malt<br />

pronounced with clean crisp pilsner character<br />

which finishes fairly dry with a hop bite. Has<br />

both ale fruitiness and lager malty complexity<br />

and clean crispness. Steam beer is underinterpreted<br />

by local craft brewers and that is<br />

our loss, but there are some good examples<br />

available. The prime examples are Anchor<br />

Steam — the benchmark of the style and my<br />

personal go-to session brew — and Flying<br />

Dog Old Scratch (sometimes seen on special<br />

order). Recently, I’ve added Kingpin Steam<br />

Beer from Northwinds Brewery to this list.<br />

Malt Monk’s Taste of the Month<br />

Northwinds Brewing Kingpin Steam Beer<br />

— This Collingwood microbrewer<br />

has been impressing me with a<br />

steady output of solid offerings.<br />

The latest is their rendition of the<br />

steam beer style called Kingpin. I<br />

sampled this recently on tap and<br />

was impressed enough to order a<br />

couple because it drank well and it<br />

filled a craving I have for the style.<br />

Believe me, it pairs well with smoky<br />

barbeque and sharp cheese. This is<br />

a light amber beer with a big frothy<br />

white cap — hints of fruit in the<br />

aroma, medium bodied, toasty-caramel malt<br />

is well balanced with woody hops,<br />

mildly complex with a crisp dry<br />

finish and hop bite. A very decent<br />

representation of the style. I’ll order<br />

it any time I see it on tap.<br />

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R.<br />

Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer<br />

culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at<br />


№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 53<br />


theatre<br />

Success Is Its Own Reward<br />

Donald DISHES on Theatre<br />


“ W<br />

hy don’t you do awards<br />

for professional theatre<br />

in London?” a Toronto<br />

director asked me two<br />

years ago. I informed him<br />

that, “One theatre would be nominated in<br />

every category!” He then suggested some of<br />

our amateur theatre groups should consider<br />

moving into professional waters. “Then they<br />

wouldn’t get any awards!” I joked.<br />

But since then there has been some<br />

movement in that direction. Tempting<br />

Tree Theatre Collective debuted its first<br />

professional production Reasons to be Pretty<br />

last month, and A Missing Link Theatre<br />

Company (AMLTC ) has their sixth on the<br />

boards (Billy Bishop Goes to War at the<br />

McManus Studio until <strong>March</strong> 8).<br />

Rick Kish told me he started AMLTC<br />

“to create opportunities for members of<br />

Canadian Actors Equity Association to work<br />

in London.” Luckily for us that, while some<br />

might think his company is a ‘bridge too<br />

far’, Kish assured me the company is also<br />

within reach of non-pros. It “was designed<br />

to bring together pros and non that want to<br />

experience the way a company works under<br />

professional union standards.”<br />

When I asked Kish if he felt he’s had the<br />

support of his peers, he assured me he had.<br />

“Over 55 community members, including<br />

artists and volunteers ranging from 15 to 75<br />

years, have found AMLTC within their reach.”<br />

Kish has also had the encouragement<br />

of The Grand Theatre, the granddaddy of<br />

professional theatre in London. “They have<br />

been very supportive of<br />

this initiative and really<br />

want us to succeed!”<br />

Encourage your competition<br />

... now that sounds like a great motto!<br />

And so I spoke to The Grand Theatre’s<br />

Artistic Director Susan Ferley, who is in the<br />

middle of<br />

her 13th<br />

season at<br />

the helm.<br />

I asked<br />

Ferley<br />

the secret<br />

of her<br />

success<br />

— besides her evident positive and<br />

supportive spirit. “I guess the secret is there<br />

is no secret. Stay curious, stay tuned to your<br />

community, keep listening.”<br />

How does Ferley keep challenging herself?<br />

“I love what I do. I want to keep learning and<br />

growing as a human being and as a theatre<br />

artist.”<br />

As for next season she promises “There<br />

will be laughter, there will be music,<br />

there will be drama.” That formula is<br />

probably another secret to her success.<br />

It is showcased this season with two very<br />

different shows on deck.<br />

The drama Other Desert Cities (February<br />

18–<strong>March</strong> 8) is intriguing. A daughter returns<br />

home to announce she is about to publish<br />

a memoir that will reveal a family secret.

54 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

Wanna bet something’s going to hit the fan?<br />

The script was written by the creator of the hit<br />

television show Brothers & Sisters.<br />

Then a local favourite<br />

follows: The 25th Annual<br />

Putnam County Spelling Bee<br />

(<strong>March</strong> 18–<strong>April</strong> 12). Can you<br />

spell H-I-L-A-R-I-O-U-S, as in<br />

musical comedy? Ferley did<br />

flag it as perhaps a bit racy for<br />

children. (Okay, I’ve passed<br />

that along Susan, but I’ll bet<br />

that will only help sell tickets!)<br />

Six young people in the throes<br />

of adolescence compete for<br />

the spelling championship<br />

of a lifetime. Overseen by<br />

grown-ups who have barely<br />

managed to escape childhood<br />

themselves, these charming<br />

overachievers learn that<br />

winning isn’t everything and<br />

that losing does not necessarily<br />

make you a failure.<br />

I guess that’s a metaphor for another<br />

secret to success, whether amateur or<br />

PortStanley<br />

FestivalTheatre<br />

<strong>2014</strong><br />

SEASO N<br />

BOX OFFICE: 519.782.4353<br />

www.portstanleytheatre.ca<br />


&SAVE!<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

professional — risking failure, hoping for<br />

success and learning a ton along the way.<br />

I’d like to shed<br />

some light on a new<br />

up-and-coming<br />

star on the horizon<br />

who is doing just<br />

that. A lot of people<br />

throw around<br />

superlatives as part<br />

of an introduction<br />

nowadays. Yes,<br />

I am stating<br />

Londoners are<br />

famous for being<br />

easily impressed.<br />

Personally, I<br />

have found a few<br />

producers stand<br />

out. They are the<br />

ones who receive all<br />

the press, because<br />

they are good at<br />

what they do.<br />

Although Trish West has only three oneact<br />

shows under her belt, and all under the<br />

umbrella of other organizations (such as the<br />

London One Act Festival at the McManus),<br />

she has proved herself a quick study with<br />

her upcoming show Skin Deep (<strong>April</strong> 2–5).<br />

Certainly she’d be the first to admit she has<br />

learned a ton by performing in a number of<br />

shows over the past six years.<br />

“I started by writing down my objectives,<br />

goals and dreams. Then I asked questions<br />

of individuals who have produced shows<br />

successfully, and watched how other<br />

productions caught my attention on<br />

Facebook, social media or by word of mouth.”<br />

West has worked overtime to reach high<br />

school students in the area, and encouraging<br />

them to contribute art works that will be<br />

displayed in the gallery of The ARTS Project<br />

where her show will be mounted. West was<br />

able to arrange sponsors for the exhibit,<br />

which echoes themes found within her play.<br />

Notwithstanding awards, and professional<br />

or amateur status in whatever degree,<br />

success is one’s own reward, and something<br />

we all can celebrate.<br />

DONALD D’HAENE is Editor of donaldsdish.ca. Twitter @<br />

TheDonaldNorth and email: donalddhaene@hotmail.com.

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />


MARCH 18 TO<br />

APRIL 12<br />






THE 25 TH<br />

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PUTNAM<br />

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Spelling Bee<br />




APRIL 22 TO<br />

MAY 10<br />


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56 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

books<br />

The Culinary Arts<br />

From Scratch: Inside the Food Network<br />

by Allen Salkin<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

We live in an age where<br />

watching cooking shows<br />

could take up more of a<br />

person’s time than actually<br />

cooking. Originally, the culinary arts<br />

referred to the skill and artistry that went<br />

into cooking real food; now we have the art<br />

of showcasing the culinary arts through the<br />

media. And no entity has done it with such<br />

gusto and success as Food Network.<br />

The history of Food Network since its<br />

inception in 1993 is chronicled in Allen<br />

Salkin’s book From Scratch: Inside the Food<br />

Network (G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 2013, $29.50).<br />

The book starts out by stating: “Somehow<br />

Food Network captured an audience that did<br />

not know that it wanted twenty-four hours a<br />

day of food television. Then, having roped in<br />

the early adopters, the network figured out<br />

how to create an even bigger audience. Food<br />

Network is not single-handedly responsible<br />

for the ‘food revolution,’ but it took what was<br />

happening in some food-forward pockets of<br />

the world … and delivered it to everybody.”<br />

It is interesting to note that the concept<br />

was not the brainchild of<br />

passionate chefs, but rather<br />

executives making strategic<br />

decisions to cash in on the<br />

rise of specialty cable stations,<br />

following in the footsteps of<br />

CNN, MTV, and HBO. The<br />

businessmen behind its<br />

creation were not epicureans,<br />

and it took some imaginative<br />

searching to come up with a<br />

cast of TV-friendly chefs that<br />

could pull off hosting their<br />

own shows.<br />

Robin Leach, already<br />

famous for Lifestyles of the Rich<br />

and Famous, was drawn in<br />

as a recognized<br />

personality to<br />

host a food-related<br />

talk show. The earliest food expert,<br />

David Rosengarten, was hired for a regular<br />

show called Food News and Views. Salkin<br />

writes that Rosengarten’s “marriage of fine<br />

cuisine, ego, and vaudevillian showbiz<br />

schmaltz would set the tone for what viewers<br />

experienced of the network in its early years.”<br />

Certain individuals were making it obvious<br />

that “chefs had the kind of big personalities<br />

and charisma that could lead to show<br />

business careers.”<br />

Emeril Lagasse, a chef with some renown<br />

in New Orleans, was an early import to host<br />

a show called How to Boil Water. This first<br />

show was not dynamic enough to fit with<br />

the larger-than-life persona of Lagasse, but<br />

it didn’t take long for Emeril Live to come<br />

along, which proved to be a turning point<br />

for the network by mixing variety shows<br />

with live cooking demonstrations. In the<br />

book there is a strong focus on Lagasse, who<br />

was the first chef to get a million dollar TV<br />

deal. The demise of Lagasse’s<br />

ten-year run on Food<br />

Network was instigated by<br />

the executives’ need to keep<br />

up with the changes in food<br />

programming with shows<br />

that ventured outside the<br />

studio kitchen.<br />

In fact, cancelling shows<br />

and changing with the times<br />

were all part of the behindthe-scenes<br />

business of the<br />

network. Before becoming a<br />

money-making machine with<br />

food as its fuel, there were<br />

Allen Salkin

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 57<br />

early financial troubles. Yanking the cord<br />

on the channel was on option during many<br />

ownership changes in the first three years<br />

of production. But sticking with it resulted<br />

in 2007 revenues near $500 million, and by<br />

2012 the network was estimated to be worth<br />

$3 billion.<br />

A string of business leaders came in to<br />

guide the station to success. Most were<br />

interested in using food as a business<br />

catalyst, not as a way to make a mark in<br />

food culture. But that mark was being<br />

made nonetheless, due to the dedication<br />

of some staff on the lookout for the next<br />

big thing to stretch the boundaries of food<br />

programming. Quirky shows that strayed<br />

from the standard fare started appearing<br />

in 1999, like the kitschy Iron Chef out of<br />

Japan that developed a cult following, and<br />

Alton Brown’s Good Eats, a smart, offbeat,<br />

slapstick approach to food education. The<br />

ratings for Iron Chef alone were double those<br />

of the Food Network average, and after this<br />

success the executives decided to use more<br />

entertainment food shows rather than the<br />

traditional “dump and stir” format normally<br />

associated with cooking shows.<br />

Food Network was also an early adopter<br />

of mixing internet and television with a<br />

25,000-recipe library webpage available<br />

by 2004. Sharing recipes with the audience<br />

brought them even closer to the extended<br />

family that was growing all the time, with<br />

household names like Rachel Ray, Jamie<br />

Oliver, Paula Deen, Anthony Bourdain,<br />

and Ina Garten. This sense of family was<br />

spread further when competition shows<br />

were introduced as a way for anyone to<br />

send in an audition tape and earn on-air<br />

time as a culinary personality working<br />

alongside cooking superstars. It is both<br />

these types of seasoned chefs and amateur<br />

home cooks who can, from scratch, get<br />

inside Food Network themselves, because<br />

this media juggernaut continues to provide<br />

opportunities for culinary personalities to<br />

rise to fame and fortune.<br />

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who works and plays in<br />

Chatham-Kent, and keeps himself well-read and well-fed by<br />

visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.<br />

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58 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

cookbooks<br />

Grain Power<br />

By Patricia Green and Carolyn Hemming<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by CHRIS McDONELL<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />


Bestselling<br />

Authors of<br />

Quinoa<br />

Revolution<br />

Over 100 Delicious gluten-free<br />

Ancient Grain & Superblend Recipes<br />

While definitely on trend<br />

themselves, there is no doubt<br />

that sisters Patricia Green and<br />

Carolyn Hemming have also<br />

been catalysts in the popularization of the<br />

once obscure grain quinoa. The authors of<br />

Quinoa Revolution (2012), which followed<br />

Quinoa 365: The Everyday Superfood<br />

(2010), were bestsellers that have helped<br />

make quinoa almost ubiquitous today. The<br />

“Quinoa Sisters” are back again with a new<br />

book. Grain Power allows them to broaden<br />

their recipe selection utilizing a wider range<br />

of “healthy and delicious gluten-free ancient<br />

grains.” The results are as promised<br />

For those who years ago embraced oat<br />

bran as a cure-all for the things things that<br />

ail us, in particular our battle with “bad”<br />

cholesterol, you’ll be glad to know that<br />

Green and Hemming still endorse oats<br />

as one of the “superfoods” at the heart of<br />

the 100 recipes in Grain Power. Amaranth,<br />

buckwheat, chia, kañiwa, millet, sorghum<br />

and teff — and of course quinoa — round<br />

out the core list of ingredients, and there are<br />

clear, straightforward instructions for how to<br />

purchase and cook all of them. I was also glad<br />

to see the authors encourage looking for Fair<br />

Trade brands. I need to interject that this is no<br />

earnest-but-bland approach to<br />

cooking and eating healthily.<br />

The basics of getting nutricious<br />

grains into your diet, such<br />

as a Creamy Slow-Cooked<br />

Steel-Cut Oats, harkens back<br />

to my grandfathers’ breakfast<br />

of choice, but touches such<br />

as the addition of pure<br />

vanilla extract and the use<br />

of a slow cooker accentuate<br />

the flavour and convenience<br />

factors. The Breakfast section<br />

of the book is actually quite<br />

a lively one, with interesting<br />

variations on crêpes, waffles<br />

and granola (you<br />

saw that coming)<br />

and dishes such as<br />

a Prosciutto & Kale<br />

Kañiwa Frittata<br />

with Romano<br />

Cheese that could<br />



easily be served for lunch or dinner as<br />

well. Lush photographs of most of the dishes<br />

also serve to inspire, and small but significant<br />

variations are frequently added, helpful for<br />

accommodating personal tastes as well as<br />

utilizing what is in your pantry. The book is<br />

also well indexed, for similar purposes.<br />

An enticing variety of appetizer, lunch<br />

and dinner recipes are featured — see the<br />

following recipes for examples — and it<br />

is easy to imagine some of these ancient<br />

grain recipes becoming family favourites.<br />

(I can also imagine readers adapting some<br />

of their own recipes to utilize these grains.)<br />

Convenient one-skillet dinners and whole<br />

meal suggestions — with lots of comfort<br />

foods — are included. My biggest surprise<br />

was how the Desserts section of the book<br />

really shines. The Chocolate Torte is a rather<br />

decadent example —yes, please!— but there<br />

are also lots of simpler cookie, square, muffin<br />

and brownie recipes that have great appeal.<br />

No one is advocating desserts<br />

as a key to healthy eating,<br />

but for those with diet<br />

restrictions that so often have<br />

to pass on treats, and those<br />

who believe every step in the<br />

right direction is a good idea,<br />

there is a plenitude of great<br />

recipes here.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL is the publisher<br />

of eatdrink. He likes quinoa.<br />

“The Quinoa Sisters” Patricia Green<br />

(left) and Carolyn Hemming

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 59<br />

Recipes from Grain Power © <strong>2014</strong> by Patricia Green and Carolyn Hemming. Food Photography by Ryan Szule. Food Styling by Nancy<br />

Midwicki. Prop Styling by Madeleine Johari. Published by The Penguin Group. All rights reserved.<br />

Cheddar Cauliflower Amaranth Soup with Sherry & Thyme<br />

Enjoy this savory soup with a sprinkle of chives across the top and<br />

crusty bread or artisan crackers on the side. Cooked and puréed<br />

amaranth makes a luxurious and creamy soup and also provides<br />

additional nutrition.<br />

Serves 4<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed oil<br />

1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion<br />

1½ tsp (7 mL) chopped garlic<br />

4 cups (1 L) low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock<br />

2 cups (500 mL) peeled diced Yukon gold or red<br />

potatoes<br />

2 cups (500 mL) cauliflower, chopped into 1–inch<br />

(2.5 cm) pieces<br />

1/3 cup (75 mL) amaranth seeds<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) sherry<br />

2 tsp (10 mL) chopped fresh thyme<br />

1 cup (250 mL) 1% milk, or milk substitute<br />

1½ cups (375 mL) shredded reduced-fat aged<br />

Cheddar cheese<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) salt (optional)<br />

Freshly ground black<br />

pepper to taste<br />

Sliced chives to garnish<br />

(optional)<br />

• Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) of cooked potato,<br />

cauliflower and ancient grain mixture<br />

after cooking for 20 minutes and before<br />

puréeing. Add it again after the remainder<br />

of the soup has been puréed to make for a<br />

chunkier version.<br />

• If you don’t have amaranth on hand or<br />

want a change of flavour, an equal amount<br />

of quinoa seeds or 2 cups (500 mL) of<br />

precooked sorghum grains are great<br />

ancient grain alternatives.<br />

1 Heat a large saucepan<br />

on medium-low heat.<br />

Add the oil and onion.<br />

Cover and cook for<br />

about 7 minutes or until<br />

the onion is opaque.<br />

2 Stir in the garlic and<br />

heat for an additional<br />

minute. Stir in the stock,<br />

potatoes, cauliflower,<br />

amaranth, sherry and<br />

thyme. Bring to a<br />

boil, then reduce to a<br />

simmer. Cover and cook<br />

for 20 minutes.<br />

3 Purée with an<br />

immersion blender or<br />

in small batches with a<br />

standard blender until<br />

smooth. Stir in the milk<br />

and cheese. Add salt (if<br />

using) and season with<br />

pepper as desired. Heat<br />

until cheese has melted.<br />

Serve topped with<br />

chives if you wish.

60 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

Oven-Roasted Herb Chicken over Tangy Apple & Cabbage Quinoa<br />

Ancient grains, together with the fragrant aroma of herbed chicken, tart apples and<br />

crisp cabbage, make a well-rounded meal that is familiar, wholesome and so tasty.<br />

Serves 6<br />


1 roasting chicken (3 to 4 lb/1.5 to 2 kg), trussed<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh thyme or 1 tsp<br />

(5 mL) dried thyme<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) minced garlic<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed or vegetable oil<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) salt<br />


1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed or vegetable oil<br />

½ cup (125 mL) chopped yellow onion<br />

1 cup (250 mL) low-sodium chicken stock<br />

½ to ¾ cup (125 to 175 mL) water<br />

½ cup (125 mL) quinoa seeds<br />

4 cups (1 L) shredded red cabbage, ½ inch (1 cm)<br />

wide<br />

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and<br />

sliced ¼ inch (5 mm) thick<br />

½ tsp (2 mL) salt (optional)<br />

Pinch of freshly<br />

ground black<br />

pepper<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL)<br />

brown sugar<br />

2 Tbsp (30 mL) red<br />

wine vinegar)<br />

1 Preheat the oven to<br />

375°F (190°C). Dry<br />

the chicken with<br />

paper towels and<br />

place in a roasting<br />

pan. Divide the<br />

thyme and garlic<br />

into four parts and<br />

push under the<br />

skin to cover the<br />

breast and legs as<br />

evenly as you can<br />

(or put them into<br />

the cavity). Rub the<br />

skin with oil and<br />

season with salt.<br />

Roast, uncovered,<br />

for 15 minutes.<br />

2 Reduce the temperature<br />

to 350°F<br />

(180°C). Cover and<br />

roast for an additional<br />

30 minutes.<br />

Remove the lid and<br />

bake, uncovered,<br />

until the leg will<br />

move freely and the<br />

juices run clear, 15<br />

to 18 minutes per pound. Remove from the oven,<br />

cover and keep warm.<br />

3 To make the quinoa, heat a Dutch oven or large<br />

saucepan on medium-low heat. Add the oil and<br />

onion and cook, covered, for 5 to 7 minutes, until<br />

onions start to become tender. Stir in the stock,<br />

water and quinoa and bring to a boil. Reduce to<br />

a simmer and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. Lay<br />

the cabbage, apples, salt (if using) and pepper<br />

on top of the cooking quinoa (don’t stir). Cover<br />

and cook for an additional 10 to 15 minutes or<br />

until the apples and cabbage are tender. Stir<br />

in the brown sugar and vinegar until sugar is<br />

dissolved and evenly distributed. Reseason with<br />

additional sugar and vinegar if desired. Remove<br />

skin and serve hot chicken over the quinoa with<br />

apples and cabbage.

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong> www.eatdrink.ca 61<br />

Chocolate Ancient Grain Torte with Raspberry Chia Sauce<br />

Dessert powered with omega-3 nutrition, protein and plenty of vitamins and<br />

minerals. Sorghum provides the base for this rich chocolate torte. Top it with<br />

the raspberry chia sauce for a soul-satisfying dessert.<br />

Serves 6<br />

3¾ cups (925 mL) water<br />

1¼ cups (300 mL) sorghum grains<br />

1⁄3 cup (75 mL) unsalted butter, melted<br />

1 large egg<br />

3 large egg whites<br />

¾ cup (175 mL) lightly<br />

packed brown sugar<br />

½ cup + 2 Tbsp (155 mL)<br />

sifted unsweetened<br />

cocoa powder<br />

2 tsp (10 mL) pure vanilla<br />

extract<br />

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt<br />


1 cup (250 mL) fresh or<br />

frozen raspberries<br />

¼ cup (60 mL) white or<br />

organic cane sugar<br />

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chia seeds)<br />

1 Bring the water and<br />

sorghum to a boil in<br />

a medium saucepan.<br />

Reduce to a simmer<br />

and cook, covered, for<br />

60 minutes. Remove<br />

from the heat, drain,<br />

then cool (the sorghum<br />

should be very tender).<br />

2 Lightly grease a 9-inch<br />

(23 cm) springform pan.<br />

Cut a piece of parchment<br />

to fit the bottom and<br />

lightly grease the<br />

parchment. Preheat the<br />

oven to 350°F (180°C)<br />

with the rack in the<br />

center position.<br />

3 Place 3 cups (750 mL)<br />

of the cooled sorghum,<br />

melted butter, egg, egg<br />

whites, and brown sugar<br />

in a blender. Purée until<br />

smooth and no large<br />

GrainPower-InteriorPress.indd 193<br />

pieces remain. Transfer<br />

batter to a medium<br />

bowl and whisk in cocoa, vanilla and salt. Pour<br />

batter into the prepared pan and bake for 40<br />

minutes, until the center is no longer liquid but<br />

still moist. Cool the torte for 2 hours.<br />

4 To make the sauce, mash the raspberries with the<br />

back of a fork in a shallow bowl. Stir in the sugar<br />

and chia. Let set for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.<br />


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5 Cut torte into desired servings and serve with<br />

chilled Raspberry Chia Sauce.<br />

• This torte is also terrific with 1½ cups (375 mL)<br />

each of fluffy cooked millet and quinoa in<br />

place of the sorghum.<br />

2013-09-19 2:19 P

62 www.eatdrink.ca<br />

№ 46 | <strong>March</strong>/<strong>April</strong> <strong>2014</strong><br />

the lighter side<br />

Another Emerging Wine Region!<br />

By KYM WOLFE<br />

Willow Springs Winery’s Vidal Ice Wine<br />

As a young adult in Northern<br />

Ontario, the only “regional” wine<br />

I remember drinking was homemade<br />

vino that someone had liberated<br />

from their parents’ basement. I couldn’t<br />

tell a merlot from a shiraz, but I did know<br />

whose dad made the best wines. Even if it<br />

was free, given a choice I’d take a bottle from<br />

David’s house over Sergio’s any day. But if I<br />

were buying … well really, who would take a<br />

bottle of Ontario wine to a nice dinner party?<br />

It seems that as my palate was maturing,<br />

so was Ontario’s wine industry and as an<br />

adult I’ve discovered the joy of fine wines<br />

made close to home. I had already toured<br />

Niagara, Prince Edward County, Pelee<br />

Island and Lake Erie North Shore when I<br />

read about Ontario’s newest emerging wine<br />

regions north of Toronto. When I realized my<br />

sister and I would drive through some prime<br />

wine country on our girls’ getaway, we had<br />

to plan our road trip accordingly.<br />

We drove through the Oak Ridges Moraine<br />

north of<br />

Toronto,<br />

and<br />

dropped<br />

by Willow<br />

Springs<br />

Winery.<br />

Lovely<br />

countryside<br />

setting, literally<br />

minutes<br />

from the<br />

north edge<br />

of the GTA. Perfect place for a wedding, with<br />

a villa by the spring-fed pond where the wedding<br />

party can stay. After being sidetracked<br />

by visions of our kids’ future weddings, we got<br />

back to the task at hand — the wine!<br />

During the impromptu tour and tasting we<br />

learned that Willow Springs was the first VQA<br />

winery in the region. And that the Testa family<br />

has a long history of wine making, dating back<br />

centuries to its roots in Italy. No one can tell us<br />

whether the Testa patriarch who purchased<br />

the land when he immigrated to Canada knew<br />

that the terroir of the moraine made it an ideal<br />

place to plant his grapevines. Whether it was<br />

an informed or an instinctive decision, it is<br />

clear now that it was a good one, as confirmed<br />

by the silver medals its Vidal Ice Wine and<br />

Merlot garnered at the 2012 Royal Agricultural<br />

Winter Fair. We left with a bottle of Sauvignon<br />

Blanc in hand and quite enjoyed it that<br />

evening while sitting on the deck by the lake.<br />

Fast forward to our drive home a few days<br />

later. Our wine stock now depleted, we were<br />

happy to stop at Magnotta Winery, just north<br />

of the 401 in Vaughn. We were disappointed to<br />

learn the winery’s closest vineyard was actually<br />

in Niagara peninsula (hardly an emerging<br />

region!) but that let-down quickly paled when<br />

we began exploring. Magnotta’s flagship store<br />

is worth a visit just for the visuals, from the<br />

Italian-villa styled courtyard to the paintings<br />

and sculptures indoors. The winery’s label<br />

designs are based on their artwork, prompting<br />

us to play “find the inspiration for this label,”<br />

as we tried to match the wine bottles with the<br />

paintings on the walls.<br />

Magnotta is like a mini-LCBO, offering<br />

180 different wines. The winery imports raw<br />

materials from around the globe to make<br />

custom blends, including from the family<br />

vineyard in the Maipo Valley in Chile. One<br />

claim to fame: Magnotta was the world’s<br />

first producer of sparkling ice wines. Some<br />

spirits, like the ice grappa and brandy, are<br />

produced from its ice wine and icewine<br />

grapes. Not content with being a globally<br />

recognized winemaker, Magnotta also has a<br />

brewery and a distillery.<br />

A few samples later we were on our way<br />

with a Special Reserve Gewürztraminer,<br />

white Zinfandel and another Sauvignon<br />

Blanc stashed in the trunk. After all we still<br />

had a weekend to enjoy, and two hardworking<br />

husbands at home who deserved a<br />

special treat!<br />

KYM WOLFE is a London-based freelance writer who<br />

always enjoys a good road trip and a good glass of wine.

Fresh<br />

from our<br />

award-winning producers and mills<br />

to your table<br />

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live<br />

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