Eatdrink #46 March/April 2014

eatdrinkmagazine

The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario

FREE

№ 46 • March/April

eatdrink

2014

www.eatdrink.ca

Merging

Contemporary

& Traditional at

Bradshaws

in Stratford

FEATURING

Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro

Veramente Artigiani in London

North Moore Catering

Quality, Craft and the Discerning Taste of

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra (The River Room/Rhino Lounge)

London’s Small-Batch Coffee Roasters

• Fire Roasted Coffee Co. • Hasbeans • Kingfisher Coffee Co.

• Las Chicas del Café • Locomotive Coffee

ALSO: Samuels Boutique Hotel in Goderich | A London Fish & Chips Roundup | Grain Power


A delicious new season

springs to life

in STRATFORD

Stratford salutes spring with the annual Swan Parade. Experience sweet

tastes on our newest adventure, the Maple Trail. Or take a guided trek

foraging for wild leeks and fiddleheads. Bring some friends and join

master chefs at a GE Café Chefs Cooking Class. Savour spring’s

flavours in Stratford.

MARCH

6 Stratford Chefs School Teat to Table Dinner Series, Monforte

on Wellington

20 Craft Beer Dinner Series, Mercer Hall

22-23 Spring Foraging Weekend, Puck’s Plenty

23 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Robert Rose, Canadian Grub to Go,

featured on Chopped Canada

29 Savour Stratford Tasting – Cider & Cheese, The Milky Whey

APRIL

3 Jack de Keyzer – Dinner Concert, Foster’s Inn

5&6 Swan Parade Weekend – family fun and food

6 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Yva Santini, Pazzo Taverna

17 Craft Beer Dinner Series, Mercer Hall

27 GE Café Chefs Cooking Class – Lora Kirk, Ruby Watcho, Toronto

visitstratford.ca @StratfordON StratfordON


Authentic

CULINARY

EXPERIENCES

FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON'S CULINARY CULTURE

IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

www.londontourism.ca/culinary

TOURISM

tourismlondon

@tourism_london

LONDON

C A N A D A


eatdrink


inc.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

Think Global.

Read Local.

Publisher

Managing Editor

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com

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eatdrinkmag

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Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

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Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Donald D’Haene,

Jill Ellis-Worthington, Dave Hammond, Bryan

Lavery, Christie Massé, Chris McDonell, Kim

Miller, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden, Kym Wolfe

Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe, Terry Manzo,

Stray Light Photography

Kym Wolfe

City Media

Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349

Mailing Address

Sportswood Printing, Straffordville ON

525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

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© 2014 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission

of the Publisher. eatdrink has a circulation of 15,000 issues

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but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

OUR COVER:

Bradshaws proprietors Carrie and

Jeremy Wreford were creatively

photographed in their Ontario Street

store in Stratford by Terry Manzo.


contents ISSUE № 46

MARCH/APRIL 2014

12

16

20

24

30

50

56

FOOD WRITER AT LARGE

8 A Thirst for Small-Batch Coffee Roasters

By BRYAN LAVERY

RESTAURANTS

12 Not Just for the Halibut! Jane’s Picks for Fish and Chips

By JANE ANTONIAK

16 Veramente Artigiani at Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro in London

By CHRISTIE MASSE

20 Jess Jazey-Spoelstra: Quality, Craft & Discerning Taste

By BRYAN LAVERY

CULINARY RETAIL

24 Merging Contemporary and Traditional at Bradshaws

By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON

SPOTLIGHT

30 Samuels Boutique Hotel and Bistro

By JANE ANTONIAK

IN THE GARDEN

36 Never Too Many Tomatoes!

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

NEW & NOTABLE

38 The BUZZ

KITCHEN DESIGN

44 When an “Old” Kitchen Is the Goal

By CHRIS McDONELL

WINE

48 Local Biodynamic and Organic Wines

By KIM MILLER

BEER MATTERS

50 Hybrid Beers: Those Marvellous Mutts

By THE MALT MONK

THEATRE

53 Donald DISHES on Theatre: Success Is Its Own Reward

By DONALD D’HAENE

BOOKS

56 From Scratch: Inside the Food Network

by Allen Salkin

Review by DARIN COOK

COOKBOOKS

58 Grain Power

by Patricia Green & Carolyn Hemming

Review by CHRIS McDONELL

THE LIGHTER SIDE

62 Another Emerging Wine Region!

By KYM WOLFE

36

58

NEW

COLUMN!

THE BUZZ

53

GRAIN POWER

Bestselling

Authors of

Quinoa

Revolution

Over 100 Delicious gluten-free

Ancient Grain & Superblend Recipes

PATRICIA GREEN

CAROLYN HEMMING

38


navigate

№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 7

LAMBTON

SHORES

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& POINT

LAMBTON

EDWARD

ST.CLAIR

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TO

TIMES

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LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH

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in

Lambton

County

“Fun in the Sun”

Marilyn Hearn

March 8-30, 2014

Lambton Heritage Museum, Grand Bend

call or click for your FREE travel guide and map

also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres

1.800.265.0316

www.tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink


8 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

food writer at large

A Thirst for Small-Batch Coffee

Roasters and Other Independents

By BRYAN LAVERY

The emergence of London’s smallbatch

coffee roasters emphasizes

the passion that exists for

fairly traded, environmentally

responsible, and ethically sourced coffee

beans. The astounding growth of the

burgeoning coffeehouse/cafe niche in

the intensely competitive coffee market

dominated by Starbucks and Tim Horton’s is

nothing short of remarkable.

Lately there has been an unprecedented

increase of upmarket cafés that are part

grab-and-go café, part bakery, and part

casual dine-in restaurant, some of which

are licensed. The quest of coffee drinkers for

artisanal, small hand-batched roasts with

diverse flavour profiles is unmatched. It has

been recently suggested that in addition to

its other well-documented effects, a cup of

coffee will improve your memory.

Hasbeans is operated by the hospitable

Smith family, who have been Covent Garden

Market merchants for more than 125 years.

Their coffee business continues to be

hands-on with

Paul (third

generation),

Debbie

(fourth) and

Joel (fifth).

While

promoting

the distinct

qualities that

each coffee

bean develops

in its natural

environment,

Hasbeans’

stalwart

owners and

Joel McMillan,

Hasbeans

Fire Roasted Coffee Café

staff have become a Covent Garden Market

institution for their fair trade offerings and

personalized service. Hasbeans’ handselected

and imported coffees are offered as

both green (raw) and roasted coffee beans.

The Little Red Roaster was initially opened

in 1995 and operated by former restaurateurs

Anne and Archie Chisholm of Anthony’s

Seafood Bistro. The Wortley Road location

became a local institution and was the

original café in what became a chain of

independently owned franchises. Kendra

Gordon-Green purchased the venture in

2002, adding several franchised Little Red

Roaster locations in the downtown core,

most notably at the Covent Garden Market

and at the Central Library.

Entrepreneur Dave Cook started The

Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2006. He had

been roasting his own coffee beans in his

garage, and launched Fire Roasted Coffee

as a Saturday business at the Western Fair

Farmers Market. Cook took over as owner

of the market operation two years later

and began to build his business portfolio.

More recently he opened a flagship café

(and his complementary business, Habitual

Chocolate) in a renovated heritage building

at King and Talbot streets. Just last month

Cook opened another satellite Fire Roasted


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10 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

location in Wortley Village, in premises

formerly occupied by The Little Red Roaster.

Cook leverages his expertise, networks

and knowledge in order to shape a strong

and enabling environment for social

enterprise. Cook’s core business belief

embraces the philosophy of supporting and

mentoring people committed to sourcing

quality products and invested in their place

of origin. In the interest of global justice, Fire

Roasted Coffee has established direct trade

with producing countries to benefit the

producers in a more substantial way.

Fire Roasted had supplied coffee to the

nearby Black Walnut Bakery Café but that

affiliation recently came to a halt. Cook

approached Gordon-Green of the Little Red

Roaster to give Fire Roasted a sustained

presence and a higher profile in Wortley

Village. Cook realizes that this location might

have a limited shelf-life, as there are plans to

expand Home Hardware into that space in the

future. In the meantime, he views the Wortley

Road location like a pop-up restaurant where

he is able to create a different niche and new

identity in the neighbourhood.

Patrick Dunham, the former general

manager and lead roaster for The Fire Roasted

Coffee Company, presided at the Western

Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market location

for six years. Working alongside Dave Cook,

Dunham traveled to coffee farms learning all

aspects of the coffee business from roasting

and cupping to selling.

Dunham went to work as a sales manager

for Imperial Coffee in

February 2013. Wilson and

Mandy Etheridge, owners

of the Black Walnut Bakery

Café, approached Dunham

to partner with them in

setting up Kingfisher

Coffee Company as a

wholesale coffee roaster

and business. The Black

Walnut Bakery Café built

its reputation specializing

in organic fair trade coffees

and teas, seasonal soups,

savoury quiches, bread,

scones and squares, salads

and light meals.

Mandy explained that

they were looking for a

niche that they felt was

absent in the marketplace.

“Unfortunately we could not find what we

were looking for. It seemed our only option

was to create our own one of a kind coffee

roasting company.” This coffee roasting

company would not only service the café, but

would also provide coffee to other business

and individuals around the city wanting the

same characteristics in their coffee.

Kingfisher’s mandate is to provide high

quality coffee blends that are roasted in

London and ethically sourced. The company

caters to the individual needs of customers

and its policy is to demonstrate transparent

community involvement. Kingfisher

roasts coffee beans in small batches and

then blends them to achieve tastes and

complexities that Dunham tells me cannot be

found in single varietal options.

Sisters Maria Fiallos and Valeria Fiallos-

Soliman operate the coffee micro-roaster,

Las Chicas del Café, on Exeter Road, which

Mandy Etheridge

& Patrick Dunham,

Kingfisher Coffee Co.

Maria Fiallos & Valeria Fiallos-

Soliman, Las Chicas del Café

opened in 2005. The Fiallos

family has been defined

by coffee for generations,

starting with their greatgrandfather

on the family’s

coffee plantation in Las

Sabanas, Nicaragua. The

family was forced to flee

Nicaragua in the 1980s

during that country’s civil

war, finally settling in

London, Ontario in 1988.

The sisters’ parents were

eventually able to return to

Nicaragua and re-establish

the family’s coffee growing

tradition with their

mission of “quality, tradition

and responsibility.”

Today, plantation workers


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 11

Locomotive Espresso at

Pall Mall & Colborne

hand-pick, sun-dry

and manually bag

their annual harvest

of dense, flavourpacked

beans and

send them to London

to be roasted.

Charles and Jill

Wright recently

opened Locomotive

Espresso in a building

that has been a

neighbourhood variety

store for 45 years.

Locomotive baristas

have received strict training in Pilot Coffee

Roaster’s Toronto espresso laboratory. Pilot

took top honours in this year’s Roast Magazine’s

annual Roaster of the Year competition

saying, “Pilot’s exemplary marketing practices

and dedication to offering quality coffee —

evidenced by its education practices and construction

of a state-of-the-art coffee-tasting lab

— propelled the company to a win.”

Locomotive Espresso opened its doors

mid-February, looking to fill a growing worldwide

thirst for local,

independent coffee bars

serving the highest quality

beverages. Its direct

trade beans will be featured

along with other

“visiting” roasts from

similarly skilled roasters.

Locomotive is located at

the corner of Pall Mall

and Colborne at the

railroad tracks, in the

former Helen’s Variety.

More and more, it

is worth embracing

independents and small-batch artisanal

coffee roasters. These types of businesses

provide core commitments to quality,

relationships and hands-on service. The

coffee trade appears to be further inspired

to leverage economies with social enterprise

and environmental responsibility by their

conduct, rather than driving profit by how

they market themselves.

BRYAN LAVERY is a coffee drinker.

EXPERIENCE

DOWNTOWN LONDON

519.663.2002 | www.downtownlondon.ca

123 King Street @Downtown_London DowntownLondon


12 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

restaurants

Not Just for the Halibut!

Jane’s Picks for Fish and Chips in London

By JANE ANTONIAK | Photos by BRUCE FYFE

You’d think that in a city called

London, with a Thames River, a

Covent Garden Market and a Victoria

Park, people might know a thing or

two about serving up England’s favourite treat.

You’d be right, but in this London, you can also

look to the Dutch, Greeks, Albanians, Algerians and

Canadians for a selection of some of the finest fish ‘n’

chips available — crispy battered halibut, haddock and cod

alongside chips, coleslaw, tartar sauce and lemon slices. Just don’t

call these places “chippies” — they have so much more to offer!

The Original

By all accounts, Kipps Lane Fish & Chips

is the longest continuously owned and

operated (by the same family) fish and chips

shop in London. The late John Arp emigrated

here from Holland and bought a failing take-

Archie’s

Seafood

Restaurants

out pizza and fish shop on Kipps Lane in 1972.

The Arp family built a loyal following for their

ultra clean and cheery premises, hand-cut

halibut, and cooked-to-order, lightly battered

and crispy fish and chips. Lovingly known as

the “Codfather,” John devoted most of his life

to serving fish to Londoners.

Daughter Jacqueline Arp, now runs the

shop for the dinner run Tuesday to Sunday.

“This is my tribute to my parents. They opened

this when I was a little girl. Running this place

helps to keep their memory alive,” she says

while wrapping white boxes in newsprint for

take-out. There is seating for about a dozen

but ninety percent of the business is take-out.

The menu now includes seafood poutine,

scallops, chowder and more, but it’s the

halibut which continues to bring in customers.

Good Friday orders are sold out two weeks

in advance. Loyal staffers Terry Gurnett and

Lorrie Emery come in daily at noon to prep

the same way John Arp did — making tartar

sauce, coleslaw and chowder from scratch.

“We are small but mighty,” smiles Jacqueline.

“Our customers are our friends.”

www.kippslanefish.com

1050 Kipps Lane, London

519-673-6606

Jacqueline Arp with staffers Terry

Gurnett (left) and Lorrie Emery


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 13

The Biggest

With four locations,

Archie’s Seafood

Restaurants sells 10,000

pounds of Alaskan

halibut a month. Huge,

whole, frozen halibut

are processed by longtime

staffer Chan Dieu,

who expertly hand cuts

4-ounce fillets. Known for

its family-friendly dine-in

atmosphere with a nautical

theme, wood paneled walls

and consistent offerings,

Chan Dieu & Tony Arroyas of

Archies hoist huge frozen

halibut, which are hand-cut

into 4-ounce fillets, battered

(below) and deep-fried

Archie’s is a hit with seniors, young

families and everyone in between. It

even offers a drive-thru.

Alain and Donna Arroyas opened

the first location on Wharncliffe Road

28 years ago. He emigrated here from

Algeria. Donna brought her love of fish

and chips from Newfoundland. Together

they built the business that now employs

100 people and is operated by their son,

Tony. Their daughter Nicole is a wellknown

and talented pastry chef who

supplies pies and desserts to Archie’s

from her own shop, Petit Paris. The

family also owns Auberge du Petit Prince

restaurant (there is halibut on the menu

there, too). Expect large portions and

unsalted hand-cut chips from Huron

Chief, potato producers

in Grand Bend. Tony says

he’s trying to help keep

things healthy by letting

customers apply their

own salt. We did, and

everything was delicious!

www.archiesseafood.ca

1146 Commissioners Road

East, London,

519-680-1144;

153 Wharncliffe Road

South, London,

519-438-8287;

1173 Wellington Road,

London, 519-668-2060;

1348 Huron Street,

London, 519-659-3100

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items!

ENJOY

Authentic

Greek Wines

& Beer

OPEN LATE!

SUN & Holidays 11–9

MON−SAT 11–11

EAT-IN OR

TAKE-OUT

572 Adelaide Street, London

519-434-6736

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca


14 www.eatdrink.ca

The Unique

Every Tuesday and Friday, a Deluxe Fish ‘n’

Chips at Irene’s Seafood Grill on Wellington

Road South comes served with creamy,

smoky, hearty Albanian Bean Soup. Luan

Jonuzi took over the former Irene’s Seafood

21 years ago as a new arrival from Albania.

The soup is now so popular that people

now phone ahead or request it frozen for

later pick-up. The soccer player turned

restaurateur has energy to spare, and it

shows in the newly renovated dining area

and in his menu (he’s added such items as

grilled fish in tarragon sauce). Luan loves

to serve crowds of young people who often

request Bloody Caesars with their fish. He

also caters to a loyal following of seniors

looking for a cozy getaway for their weekly

meal of lightly battered Alaskan halibut,

haddock or cod. Luan believes in generous

helpings along with friendly service. He can

be seen cooking through an open window

and he often pops out of the kitchen to

greet people. His enthusiasm is evident in

the jumbo take-away deals such as family

dinners that include seven large pieces of

halibut, double fries and double salad for

$56. Take your kids and their grandparents.

Have yourself a glass of wine. Everyone will

be happy. Especially Luan.

315 Wellington Road, London

519-439-6121

At Mykonos, Heidi Vamvalis

serves up fish and chips, as

well as Greek cuisine

At Irene’s Seafood Grill,

Chef/Owner Luan Jonuzi

delivers generous helpings,

along with friendly service

The Atmosphere

Some people are surprised to hear that when

Bill and Heidi Vamvalis started Mykonos 40

years ago on Adelaide Street, it had been a

fish and chip shop since 1951. “We had fryers

where the bar is now and three tables,” recalls

Heidi. “Fish is still a staple on the menu.” Now

halibut and chips at Mykonos comes with

a side of Greek salad, a basket of bread and

house-made tartar sauce. The meaty halibut

has a delicious crispy coating. The cod has a

rich, full flavour. All of it goes very well in the

romantic, Greek island themed setting which

includes candle-lit tables, clouds painted on

the ceilings and strings of lights along the

blue walls. With a glass of wine and a hug

from Heidi, a trip to Mykonos is a perfect date

night or a place to relax over an extended

fish and chip experience, which might also

include calamari and baklava.

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca

572 Adelaide Street, London

519-434-6736

The Pub

We’d be hard-pressed to find a pub in London

that doesn’t offer fish and chips. What we like

about The Waltzing Weasel is that fresh beer

is served with the beer-battered haddock and

halibut. The beer in the batter changes daily

depending on the whim of the bartender. With

18 drafts on tap that makes for some interesting


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 15

fish. Flaky and piping hot,

served with both malt and

white vinegar on the tables,

fish and chips at the Weasel is

a great “local” experience.

www.thewaltzingweasel.com

1324 Adelaide St. N., London

519-663-9194

Other Notables

Walker’s Fish and Chips

on Wellington at Horton,

and Robbie Walker’s in

Sherwood Forest along with

HeyDayz downtown are all

owned by the same group

and offer three different

presentations on popular

fish and chips. Walker’s, a long-time London

original, has changed hands but remains at the

same downtown location with black & white

awning. The Sherwood Forest location is takeout

only and serves families in the west end.

HeyDayz is geared to hungry students and pub

crawlers looking for some late-night food.

Enjoy the “local” experience, at

The Waltzing Weasel

Well Served!

We salute these hard

working and dedicated

purveyors of comfort food

for maintaining — some

for decades — quality

food which has satisfied

generations. Whether

your fish and chips comes

wrapped in newspaper,

with bean soup or Greek

salad, consider yourself

well-served in this London.

We’ve taken this British

classic to new levels.

JANE ANTONIAK is an

eatdrink writer as well as Manager,

Communications & Media Relations, King’s University College,

Western University. Her favourite fish ‘n’ chips can be found at the end

of a rod, caught in Lake Shebandowan, northwest of Thunder Bay.

BRUCE FYFE is a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink.

He is also Librarian, Weldon Library, Western U. Bruce was impressed

by the 68-pound halibut he photographed in Archie’s freezer.

Introducing...

Pleased to

feed you.

1288 COMMISSIONERS RD W, LONDON • 519.601.3300 • byronfreehouse.ca


16 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

restaurants

Veramente Artigiani

at Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro in London

By CHRISTIE MASSÉ

W

hen travellers

reminisce about

their most

memorable dining

experiences abroad, it is common

to hear praises over the gems upon

which they stumble while straying

from the downtown tourist track.

Having lived through this exact

cliché during my recent sojourn

in Milan, I am familiar with the

thrill of accidentally discovering

authenticity. Following a

number of uninspired meals at

overpriced Americanized tourist

trap “ristoranti.” I finally got to

experience the most delicious

cliché imaginable; a meal with

handmade artisan levains, pastas, and

pizzas, and wines to complement every

flavour, all for a fraction of the prices I’d

been paying and with triple the ambiance.

This sought-after experience can be found

at Tuscano’s, a family owned and operated

pizzeria and bistro found off the beaten

path on Oxford Street, right across from

Fanshawe College. Tuscano’s offers a great

Tuscano’s is conveniently located on Oxford Street,

right across from Fanshawe College

dining experience without facing traffic,

parking wars, or the event congestion that

sometimes fills our streets.

As Bryan Lavery, eatdrink’s Food Writer

at Large, mentioned in the last issue’s

article, “Has ‘Artisan’ Lost Its Meaning?”

the term artisan comes from the Italian

artigiano. In a food world often driven by

buzz words, Robert and Shannon Donati

prove that artisanal

food is alive and well

in London, not by

following trends, but

by maintaining the

quality and standards

to which they have

always subscribed.

They have been in the

business for 22 years,

beginning with Little

Rocky’s Pizzeria on

Dundas, and have

Anthony Donati and Dani

Woods are flanked by Robert

and Shannon Donati


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 17

invariably held quality as their highest

priority. Luckily for London’s diners, the

couple denotes quality with old world

methods, fresh ingredients, handmade

products, and small batch production

— the very definition of artisanal. In

this truly family-run business, Robert’s

80-year-old mother even joins the

kitchen crew on a regular basis to hand

make their gnocchi, Nona-style.

Shannon not only holds her post

as co-owner/operator, she is also the

restaurant’s skilled and dedicated

pastry chef, beginning each day with

from-scratch bread, pasta, and dessert

preparation, only to switch gears and

tend front of house for dinner service.

Her desserts might seem familiar in

description, but stand out amongst

competitors in creativity, skill, and

presentation. Items such as sticky toffee

pudding, flourless chocolate cake, and

tiramisu cheesecake recalibrate your

impression of how these somewhat

common items can and should taste.

The same can be said of other menu

items as well, all of which are mindfully

developed and executed by the

restaurant’s Chef Dani Woods, assisted

by Sous Chef Mike Kerslake. For example,

the local beet salad featured during

Londonlicious sells itself, with the spinach

and goat’s cheese accompaniment

garnished with candied pecans and dried

cranberries. The orange-maple brûlée

dressing ties all of these compliments

together with an unanticipated love tap

to the taste buds. The savoury and sweet

flavour notes perfectly support each other

in this dish, as well as on the goat’s cheese

and grape pizza.

Another Londonlicious feature, worthy

of the regular menu, the pizza’s sweet

grapes, caramelized onions, and roasted

garlic are countered by the salty goat’s

cheese, crispy prosciutto, and specially

sourced Galati mozzarella. This pizza is

finished with a vincotto drizzle. Vincotto

(cooked wine) is an artisanally produced,

dark, sweet grape must reduction, which

they get from Jill’s Table. The Galati cheese

was specially chosen following a tour of the

Windsor factory. Another family business,

the Galati Cheese Company creates allnatural

whole mozzarella as well as a

selection of other cheeses. The tomatoes,

Tuscano’s offers a wide selection of pizza toppings, available

on regular or thin crust, in small or large sizes

Pastas are all house-made

Shannon Donati prepares a variety of desserts daily

which are picked and then packed within

four hours, were specially selected as well. It

is clear, based on the team’s articulation of

all aspects of the restaurant, from the menu

to the DIY (though you would never know it)

fine contemporary décor, that every minute

detail is given serious contemplation before

being settled upon.

Following training from Chef Steve James

at the London Training Centre, Chef Dani

(who happens to also be the girlfriend of

Shannon and Robert’s son Andrew — it truly

is a family affair) has fully embraced her

passion in the kitchen. She thrives in creating


18 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Chic and modern pizzeria decor, with a casual bistro atmosphere

features Thursday through Saturday, making

vinaigrettes and sauces, and braising meats

using only the right wines for the task. “We

give you the best quality we can for the fairest

price,” explains Robert. Appetizers range in

price from $4.50 to $12, and the individual

mains don’t exceed $16. “We never cut

corners and we always try to do better,” adds

Robert — words of a dedicated and passionate

restaurateur.

Robert oversees every aspect of the 80-seat

restaurant and takes care of much of the

business side, but seems most at home

working behind the bar. After introducing me

to my new favourite red wine, an Argentinian

malbec that is featured in their house-made

sangria, he explained to me that they purchase

through an agent as opposed to buying

through the LCBO. This allows them to carry

estate wines, of which only 10 to 15 000 cases

are produced, all available

by the glass. I enjoyed a grillo

as recommended to me by

our attentive server, Amy.

The grillo is an Italian green

grape varietal, which presents

itself as a crowd pleaser. It is

dry with medium acidity and

would appeal to the riesling

lover and the pinot grigio

crowd alike. The beer drinker

can expect to see Cracked

Canoe, Rolling Rock, Hop

City products, Moose Head,

and the Italian Berretti. Fresh

A cozy corner nook

drink features are created in

season, such as strawberry

lemonade using Heeman’s

strawberries, to be enjoyed

on the spacious 24-seat

patio, which opens in May.

As I swirled and sipped,

I caught the sound of the

blues playing through the

speakers and enquired

about the (spot on) choice

in music. This was the

influence of their children,

Andrew, Rebecca, and

Anthony, all of whom

are very involved in the

restaurant as well. Both

boys take care of many of

the odds and ends while

Rebecca, a student, serves part time. Robert

says, “We’re only scratching the surface here.”

They plan to build a bright future for their

children at the restaurant, setting them up to

one day take over the family business. It’s a

business worthy of London’s attention.

Tuscano’s Pizzeria & Bistro

1579 Oxford Street, London

519-452-3737

www.toscanoslondon.com

monday–thursday: 11 am–10 pm

friday & saturday: 11 am–11 pm

closed sunday

CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a Stratford Chef School graduate, a

local chef, and food consultant. For enquiries, call 519-494-1061.


№ 46 | March/April 2014

Eat in or take out

Dining

Guide

Hasbean’s

International Bakery

Kleiber’s Deli

Manito’s Rotisserie

& Sandwich Shop

Nate’s Shawarma

Petit Paris

Sebastian’s

Seoul Seafood Shoppe

Tanakaya

Taylor Sue’s

Thai Delight

The Little Red Roaster

The Market Deli

The New Delhi Deli

The Piping Kettle Soup Co.

The Rice Box

The Salad Bowl

Waldo’s Bistro On King

Affordably Fresh, Friendly & Local

Market Hours

Monday to Thursday:

8am — 6pm

Friday: 8am — 7:30pm

Saturday: 8am — 6pm

Sunday: 11am — 4pm

coventmarket.com

/coventgardenmarket


20 www.eatdrink.ca

restaurants

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Quality, Craft & Discerning Taste

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra is the entrepreneur behind North Moore

Catering, The River Room and the new Rhino Lounge

By BRYAN LAVERY

Photos by STRAY LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

North Moore Catering was born

out of a longing. Jess Jazey-

Spoelstra was working at Walkers

in Tribeca, corner of North Moore

St. and Varick St. (7th Ave), in Manhattan.

Disenchanted with the catering at her

wedding, Jazey-Spoelstra had an epiphany,

and decided to launch a catering company

instead of a restaurant. She and her

husband Harmen, along with general

manager Sandra Doyle-Holden, set about

building North Moore’s status as one of the

city’s foremost caterers almost entirely on

word-of-mouth.

Jazey-Spoelstra is a natural communicator

with her finger firmly on the culinary pulse.

Like any effective entrepreneur, she has a

particular charisma and an innate gift for

training and mentoring skilled staff that can

communicate her vision and deliver it with

finesse.

When Jazey-Spoelstra was offered the

restaurant space at Museum London for

The River Room, she and Harmen were

initially reluctant. However, the room and

the facilities were the proper fit for a caterer

with Jazey-Spoelstra’s entrepreneurial vision

and creative talents. The River Room quickly

became a success.

Her latest project is the upscale Rhino

Lounge Bakery and Coffee Shop, in the

premises previously occupied by the gift shop

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and her husband Harmen Spoelstra

in the new Rhino Lounge within Museum London.

Photo by Jesse Gibb

at Museum London. The café is named after

Tom Benner’s White Rhino sculpture that has

stood watch on the grounds of the museum

since 1987. There are plans to place patio

tables on the well-manicured front lawn and

guests will also be able to sit by the beautiful

pond on the west side of the Museum.

Jazey-Spoelstra’s sophisticated design

sensibility is reflected in all her projects.

It is about delivering elegance, and

paying attention to detail. Smoky crystal


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 21

chandeliers, with dozens of multifaceted

hanging crystals, and custom-made black leather

banquettes set the tenor. Designed to be multifunctional,

the space can be repurposed for

special and private events.

The in-house scratch bakery is set to showcase

pâtisseries, pies, croissants, handmade doughnuts

and hand-rolled bagels. Pastry chef Michele

Lenhardt’s chic dessert offerings include goat

cheese cheesecake, cherry and lemon tarts and

her signature chocolate pâté. The café will be

licenced and the kitchen will turn out grab-and-go

sandwiches, paninis, and charcuterie, and there are

plans to make tapas available on Thursday nights.

Jazey-Spoelstra focuses on providing innovative

and cutting edge food experiences combined with

extraordinary service which is her hallmark. She

does not source products from the standard food

suppliers but instead selects each food item to

ensure quality and freshness at each event.

She has a penchant for adding her own signature

style by reimagining food styles and cultures.

“Quality has always been my number one priority,

even if it means that my prices are higher than

some competitors. At caterings, we still cook all

the food fresh on site with a portable kitchen.

Everything is made from scratch and if we can’t

keep our standards because of budget constraints

or venue constraints, then we won’t do the event.”

Most ingredients are sourced locally whenever

possible, but some iconic staples

such as smoked salmon, caviar,

bagels and cream cheese are

express-shipped by courier from

the famed Russ & Daughters in

New York. This is a testament to

Jazey-Spoelstra’s desire to bring

nothing but the best to her client’s

table.

Last May, Jazey-Spoelstra

invited me to the River Room to

sample Russ & Daughters hand-sliced smoked

salmon, which is only available once a year (the

year prior it wasn’t available at all). The coldsmoked

Gaspé Nova is a primal experience due

The array of North

Moore Catering photos

on these pages can be

likened to Jess Jazey-

Spoelstra’s entrepreneurial

achievements.

Like any successful

caterer/restaurateur,

she has a particular je ne

sais quoi combined with

an innate talent for mentoring professional staff

who can communicate her culinary vision and

deliver it with aplomb and finesse. Both the range

and execution are impressive.


22 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

to the combination of the fattiness of the

fish and the mild smokiness. She served this

delicacy with double hand-whipped, eat-itby-the-spoonful,

scallion-cream cheese and

proper hand-made chewy bagels.

We also sampled the complex and

sensual mouth feel of Osetra caviar

from sustainably raised Californian

sturgeon. On another occasion

she invited me to sample some

new dishes. Well, nobody in this

city does bone marrow the way the

River Room does — oh, the deep

and satisfying pleasure of eating

pure rich hot bone marrow.

Speaking of Russ & Daughters,

Jazey-Spoelstra told me about an

independent documentary called

The Sturgeon Queens. Its recent

release was timed to coincide with

Russ & Daughters centennial this year.

The documentary features an extensive

interview with two of the daughters for

whom the lox and herring emporium was

named. One hundred-year-old Hattie

Russ Gold and her sister, 92-year-old Anne

Russ Federman, both share anecdotes

that encapsulate the Jewish immigrant

experience: “hard work, humour, romance,

and a little tsuris (aggravation).” Other

participants include the fourth generation

family members who operate the shop

today. The film also features

Herman Vargas, aka “The Artistic

Slicer,” longtime employee, now

manager, who represents the new

wave of immigrants behind the Russ

& Daughters counter.

North Moore caters cocktail

parties, weddings, post-wedding

brunches, dinners at your home,

corporate events or any other

occasion that requires a caterer.

Past events have included cocktail

parties with guest lists of 1500, as

well as intimate dinner parties.

“We are a full service catering

company that takes care of the

rentals, linen selection, floral, decor,

backdrops, head table decor, wedding cakes

and favours,” says general manager Sandra

Doyle-Holden. “We assist with timeline, floor

plan and planning. We take great pride in

everything we do and do our best to ensure

every event is perfect.”


№ 46 | March/April 2014

presents

North Moore Catering

519-697-2560

Venues: The River Room / Rhino Lounge www.theriverroom.ca;

Museum London www.londonmuseum.on.ca; Mercedes London;

Farhi Farms; Civic Garden Complex www.london.ca/civiccentre;

Centennial Hall www.centennialhall.london.ca; Michael Gibson

Gallery www.gibsongallery.com; Children’s Museum www.

londonchildrensmuseum.ca; The Grand Theatre www.

grandtheatre.com; Fanshawe Pioneer Village, Fanshawe Conservation

Area, Old Century Barn.

Rhino Lounge Bakery & Coffee Shoppe

Museum London, Ridout Street North

519-850-5111

monday–sunday: 9 am–5 pm

thursdays: 9 am–9 pm

The River Room Café

Museum London, Ridout Street North

519-850-2287

www.theriverroom.ca

monday—friday: 9 am–4 pm

sunday for brunch

The River Room is also open evenings for private dining events.

Hope

made

delicious

APRIL 23

BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef and eatdrink’s Food

Writer at Large.

in partnership with

Reservations Recommended

List of Participating Restaurants at:

www.atasteforlife.org


24 www.eatdrink.ca

culinary retail

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Merging Contemporary & Traditional

at Bradshaws, in Stratford

By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON

Photos by TERRY MANZO

Shepherding a century-old

business through economically

challenging times could be a

big challenge, but Jeremy and

Carrie Wreford are up for it. In fact, the

couple is actually enjoying the process

of modernizing a venerated retail icon.

Starting as a fine china and crystal

shop, Bradshaws was founded in 1895

by John Bradshaw. The Wreford family

took over from three generations

of Bradshaws in 1975 when Bill

and Gordon, Jeremy’s father and

grandfather respectively, purchased

the store.

Progressing beyond their roots is

how Jeremy and Carrie are updating

the store. “Reassessing lines in the

store is a continuous process,” explains

Carrie. “Making sure we have the right

assortment of products is a constant

evolution.”

Part of that evolutionary process has

involved adding jewelry to the store’s

stock and deleting some items that have

gone by the wayside over the years. “If

1 — Proprietors Carry & Jeremy Wreford

2 — Authentic Models Sky Hooks

3 — Railway Spike Knives

1

2 3


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 25

we’d just continued as a crystal and china

store, in this marketplace we’d be in very

big trouble,” explains Carrie. “It’s just not

in demand the way it used to be.”

Choosing to add the Pandora Jewelry

line was “the best decision we ever

made,” according to Carrie. It is now

their best selling line, and customers

who come into the store to buy

bracelets, charms and watches notice

the wide array of other products and

become Bradshaws shoppers.

Besides having an innate understanding

of the business, having grown

up with the Bradshaws’ heritage, Jeremy

brings his experience as a set designer

in the film industry. He has a great feel

for what works visually for displays and

the store in general. Carrie worked in the

Roots Canada head office as a graphic

artist, so her strength in marketing is

paying off for Bradshaws.

Maintaining their offerings of quality

kitchenware is an emphasis for the

couple. Presently, Emile Henry and

Le Creuset are top-sellers, but the

continuing trend toward home cooking

and entertaining has convinced them

to look at adding more to feed the

growing demand for distinguished

products. With an open concept design

of kitchen/living room spaces the norm

in contemporary houses, home cooks

don’t want ugly pans and worn tools on

display for all to see. “We stock items

that look good and are very functional

when you buy quality,” says Carrie.

She adds that more people are following

the European habit of “buying once and

having it (cookware) forever.” This is a

motto that the Wrefords can get behind, as

they “curate” all the cookware and kitchen

4— Michel Design Works Soaps & Lotions

5 — Umbra Venus Jewellery Stands

6 — Pottery Canoes by Susan Robertson

7 — Hand Bookends by Indaba

8 — Bodum Bistro Blenders

4

5

6

7 8


26 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

9

9 — Menu Jewellery Trees

10 — Bohemia Crystal Hand Made Glass

11 — Belvoir Fruit Farms Cordials

12 — Once Upon a Tree Serving Boards & Bowls

13 — Assorted Salad Bowls; 14 — Turkey Hill Maple Syrup

11

12

10

items sold at Bradshaws. Admitting that

they have “an embarrassing amount of

cookware,” the Wrefords love to cook,

and many of their personal favourites are

offered at the store.

Travelling extensively, the couple

use their trips as research and for

professional development. “In Paris

or London, or wherever we travel, we

are always going to culinary stores. Or

when we dine and something is served

in a vessel we really like, we take note,”

says Jeremy.

Though the core of Bradshaws will

always be its Ontario Street store,

according to Carrie, the duo knows that

the world is quickly moving toward

web-based shopping. In September of

last year, they launched their online

store. “This is a huge opportunity to

service our current customers and gain

new ones instead of opening more

(bricks and mortar) stores,” says Carrie.

“This will be a big push for us.”

Recognizing that the introduction

of Wal-Mart and Target into Stratford’s

retail mix will change its complexion,

the couple emphasizes that whether

customers are once-a-year visitors from

13

14


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 27

Bradshaws

129 Ontario Street, Stratford

519-271-6283

www.bradshawscanada.com

JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON leads the talented team of

communicators at Write.On Communications, and she loves to write

about life’s great joys, like food, drink and shopping.

the U.S., folks from southwestern Ontario

that visit during the theatre season, or

locals who stop in weekly, providing

excellent, personal customer service is

top of mind for the Wrefords. “There are

lots of places where you can go and buy

a knock-off, but the shopping experience

is very important and we want to give our

customers the best experience they are

going to have.”

15

TERRY MANZO is a Stratford-based photographer with a diverse

and impressive client list. www.terrymanzo.com

Meats & So Much More!

15 — Breville Espresso Machines

16 — Quality Serving Tools, Utensils & Gadgets

Hormone & Drug-Free Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table

16

We are your London outlet for Metzger Meat Products,

The Whole Pig, Blanbrook Bison Farm and Lena’s Lamb,

with sauces and spices from The Garlic Box, Pristine Olive,

Stonewall Kitchen, and Traditional Portuguese Sauce.

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm

226-376-6328 • erin@saucymeats.com

Anything Grows

SEED Co.

www.anythinggrows.com

See us online or at The Western Fair

Farmers’ Market — Every Saturday

Over 600 varieties of SEED


Ontario focus. European Style.

INN | RESTAURANT

Each Beer Dinner features

samples from the brewery,

paired with a 4-course

chef-inspired menu.

Limited seating.

Meet the brewery reps and

talk about craft beer!

BEER

Dinner Series

4 Courses — $60 each

Book all 4 nights in advance for $200

Jan 16 – Lake of Bays

Feb 20 – Muskoka

Mar 20 – Silversmith

Apr 17 – Beau’s

P

DININ

great for

CHRI

PAR

NO room

BRUNCH • LUNCH • DINNER • EVENTS

104 Ontario Street, Stratford | 519.271.92 02 | www.mercerhall.com

Get up-to-date info on our series of exciting events! fb.com/mercerhall twitter.com/MHResto


136 Ontario Street

Stratford, Ontario

tel. 519.272.2828

See more Easter

treats online at

chocolatebarrs.com

Holiday hours:

Open evenings ’til

8 pm all Easter

week long. Good

Friday: closed.

Open Easter Sat.

from 8am to 6pm.

Stratford

is more

than

great

theatre ...


30 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

spotlight

History & Hometown Values

Samuels Boutique Hotel and Bistro, in Goderich

By JANE ANTONIAK

Photos by BRUCE FYFE

Goderich’s newest boutique bistro The results she has achieved would make

and hotel, Samuels, is named both Samuels proud to have their names

after local men who worked attached to the enterprise. Samuel Bisset

in the production of salt, milk

and ice cream. Owner

Kim Burgsma, with the

help of her husband

(and contractor) Hugh,

transformed picturesque

dairy farmland on the

Maitland River just north

of Goderich into a property

with a lovely 14-room

contemporary boutique

hotel. Now, three years

later, Burgsma has grown

the culinary offerings at

Samuels to include casual

fine dining, sushi nights

and culinary classes with

Goderich native and Fanshawe

Chef Scott Baechler

College Chef/instructor Scott Baechler.

Kim Burgsma, chef/owner of

Samuels Boutique Hotel

Photo by Glenn Hubbers (www.hubbers.ca)


№ 46 | March/April 2014

and his family produced award-winning

dairy products on the land for 70 years

in the 1900s. The Burgsmas transformed

his former silos into their unique home.

Inspired, they then bought an adjacent

former banquet hall and transformed it

into a single hall hotel, with half the rooms

facing the river — in fact you can walk

to the banks and enjoy fishing or hiking.

A Garden Room, which was originally

Colborne Public School — a two-room late-

1800s school — became a breakfast room

with exposed brick walls juxtaposed with

Nevada Red walls and stone accents. It is

now Samuels Bistro, with full service dining

and seating for 28.

The other Samuel was Samuel Platt, who

is credited with discovering salt in Goderich

in 1866. The result was that Sifto became the

town’s main industrial employer; the mine

head can be seen from the hotel. Guests can

hike to the Goderich harbour for a closer view

or to enjoy a famous Lake Huron sunset.

Continued on page 34 ...

Every tastefully decorated room is accessible and has

a gas fireplace, and some have Jacuzzi tubs. A secondstorey

Schoolhouse Suite (below) has two bedrooms, full

kitchen and a large balcony.


32 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Dine

• Shop • Stay • Play

Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast

40th SeaSon june 25 - Sept 6, 2014

grand bend’s historic

1.877.862.5984

blythfestival.com

Box office opens April 1

“Country Dining

at Its Best”

19-81 Crescent Street, Grand Bend

Across from TD Canada Trust

519-238-5515

BREAKFAST ~ LUNCH ~ DINNER ~ CARRY OUT

www.grandbendschoolhouse.ca

Private

Room

Available

The Perfect Place to Celebrate t


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 33

2013 Paint Ontario Best in Show painting by Donna Andreychuk

PLAN TO ATTEND

Canada’s premier juried show & sale

of representational art

March 8 to 30

LAMBTON HERITAGE MUSEUM

8km south of Grand Bend

Open 11 am to 5 pm daily

Seasonal Hours

Always Closed Monday

Reservations Recommended

519.238.6224

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend

www.finearestaurant.com

Named one of Ontario’s BEST

“Destination Restaurants”

PaintOntario.com

Grand Bend Art Centre: 519-872-7824

Also during March, enjoy the

RETURN OF THE TUNDRA SWANS

Visit the museum to learn about their annual migration

A Fresh Take on Tradition

Come for dinner

or a romantic getaway

on the Huron Shore

Stylish German Cuisine

Distinctive Accommodations

Join Us for our

Spring Wedding & Event Fair

the last weekend in April!

Re-Opening

Weekends

in APRIL

www.hessenland.com

“Evidence that you don’t have to be in

a big city to create great things!”

— The Globe & Mail

527 Main Street, Exeter 519-235-3030

30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend

30 min West of Stratford

www.eddingtons.ca

RR #2 Zurich ON

Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,

1 hour from London

519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736


34 www.eatdrink.ca

Continued from page 31 ...

Bringing International Experience

Home to Goderich

Samuels has recently joined Ontario’s

Finest Hotels, Inns & Spas. Every room has

a gas fireplace. Some King Riverside suites

have Jacuzzi tubs. All rooms are tastefully

decorated and are accessible. A secondstorey

Schoolhouse Suite has two bedrooms,

full kitchen and a large balcony with a view

of Goderich and the sunsets. This is where

Chef Baechler offers culinary classes in the

winter and spring. Baechler has over 20 years

experience as an executive chef in international

five star hotels across Canada and

the world,

including

Rimrock in

Banff (the

only five

diamond

in Western

Canada),

The Four

Seasons in

Whistler,

and

Fairmont

in Dubai.

Most

recently,

while

teaching at

Fanshawe,

Baechler

Diners are seated in the newly renovated Garden Room

(above), with its Nevada Red or exposed brick walls or, in

season, on the Patio Café (below).

№ 46 | March/April 2014

1

2

3

Fifty percent of the Samuels Bistro menu changes

seasonally, with a creative use of local products and a

love of seafood apparent. Examples (above) include:

1 Coconut Curry Prawns with Basmati Rice

2 Seafood Chowder with Scone

3 Apple Crumble Tart


№ 46 | March/April 2014

was part of Culinary Team Canada, winning

top honours in Europe. Baechler says that

Samuels’ small size creates the perfect

balance. “I am a Goderich boy, it’s a great

untapped destination, and people who live in

Goderich work hard to protect that.”

Baechler says he was drawn to Burgsma’s

love of gardening and culinary. “Over the

summer we have a full farmers’ market in the

downtown core. It’s simply the place to be.

Kim and I are hoping to do a dinner together

at some point, so keep an eye out,” he teases.

Burgsma is the chef at Samuels and it’s

a job she clearly enjoys and excels at. Her

playful approach with local Perth Pork

Products results in such items as wild boar

ragu and sweet candied bacon in fennel

salad. Burgsma’s apple crumble pie made

with Arva Four Mill flour is light and flaky.

In season, she makes peach and berry

pies. Fifty percent of the menu changes

seasonally. She also loves seafood and

features large shrimp in her chowder and

in her coconut curry prawn with basmati

rice. Samuels serves VQA wines and is fully

licenced. The Bistro Garden Room can also

be used for private functions and meetings.

“I’m careful what I choose to put on the

menu,” says Burgsma. “Small is not bad.”

Clearly, she loves her sense of place and

its history. The family has lived on the site

for 33 years and daughter Holly Dalton is a

local photographer. “It’s a beautiful area we

have here.”

Burgsma has also teamed up with another

Goderich restaurant, Thyme on 21, offering

guests a Culinary Adventure which includes

a two-night stay, and dinners at both

locations. Given the skills of Thyme’s Chef

Terry Kennedy, that sounds like a delicious

get-away.

Trust...

Taste...

Award-Winning

PRIME

BEEF

Burgers

Quality...

It’s True! Spring is around the

corner and it’s time to plan

your BBQ season!

Also watch for new creations for the BBQ

throughout this spring and summer.

.

Samuels Boutique Hotel

34031 Saltford Rd, Goderich

519-524-1371

www.samuelshotel.ca

JANE ANTONIAK has covered Huron County for eatdrink

magazine for five years. She is also Manager, Communications &

Media Relations, King’s University College, Western.

BRUCE FYFE enjoys culinary photography for eatdrink. He is

a Librarian at Weldon, Western University.

Open six days a week.

Hensall, Ontario

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.

Available in London at

Saucy: Meats & So Much More

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market

on Saturdays!

www.metzgermeats.com

519-262-3130

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry

Specialty European Meat Products


36 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

in the garden

Never Too Many Tomatoes!

Time to Get Started on Your Tomato Garden

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

Nothing beats the flavour of a fresh

picked tomato. Fresh heirloom

tomatoes are so good, I am no

longer tempted by any grocery

store offerings—at any time of the year.

Savour the flavour of the tomato while

they’re in season. Out of season, the best

way to enjoy tomatoes is in your own

homemade sauces, either frozen or canned.

These are welcome memories of summer in

the middle of winter!

With so many varieties of tomatoes, how

can you choose? For best flavour look for

heirloom seed varieties. You will not end

up with the perfect, unblemished, round,

tasteless tomato that grocery marketing has

presented for years. What you sacrifice in

looks you make up in flavour.

Heirlooms

What is an heirloom? An heirloom is

pollinated naturally, and its seeds come up

true unless cross-pollinated by bees. Some

types, with names like Violet Jasper, Mortgage

Lifter, Black Krim and San Marzano, have

been passed down through generations. The

diverse selection now available is exciting.

Just a few years ago many of these varieties

were almost forgotten.

If you want to experience these tempting

fruits at their best, you can grow them

yourself. Each type offers a unique, delicious

flavour profile. You can save your own

tomato seeds for next year. Like peppers

and eggplants, tomatoes are self-pollinating.

But to avoid cross-pollination you will need

to plant them with at least 50 feet between

varieties — if you have the space.

Colour

Colour is another variable. There are

beautiful reds, dark reds that are almost

black, yellows, oranges and even green

striped. There are different nutrients in each

Red Cherry

Black Krim

Mortgage Lifter

Beefsteak


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 37

colour so the best choice is to eat them all!

A colour mix also adds beauty to your food.

Remember, we eat with our eyes, too!

Varieties

There are four main categories of tomatoes:

beefsteak, mid-size, paste and cherry. Choose

beefsteaks for the perfect bacon and tomato

sandwich (just add mayo). Mid-size are a

great salad size, paste offers the best texture

for sauces, and cherries are ideal for braising,

salads and snacking.

For a continued supply of tomatoes look at

maturity dates. Some varieties ripen earlier

than others. Stagger maturity dates so they

don’t all show up at once! This will also

extend your tomato harvest season. If you

find tomatoes labeled “determinate,” they are

a bush variety. Determinates are also good

for growing in containers. When you see

“indeterminate” the plants grow more like

vines and will need support. Indeterminates

will produce fruit until frost brings them down.

The Tomato Needs …

Tomatoes like full sun, 6 to 8 hours a day.

They require good soil; whatever soil you

have, add compost and composted manure

to ensure a well-drained, rich, open soil. Give

them space to grow. Two feet apart is ideal.

If your space is limited, consider container

gardening. Use a large deep pot and a

container soil mix with added composted

manure. To finish the container, underplant

your tomato with salad greens, Swiss chard

or beautiful edible nasturtiums.

What to Start Soon

If you want to grow tomatoes, peppers,

melons, onions or eggplants from seed they

are best sown indoors from late February

early March. To start seeds indoors you

need to create an environment suited for

seedlings to grow. Light, temperature and

humidity are variables that are important

to manage for best results. A south-facing

window offers good light, but for these sunloving

plants and for good healthy growth,

invest in a grow light.

If you want just a few plants, they are

available from retailers mid-May, but don’t

plant them outside until after the last chance

of frost, usually May 24th. Heirloom varieties

can be found at farmers’ markets.

Fresh picked truly means growing your

own, and it’s worth it! Whether you grow

Roma

Sungold Cherry

Indigo Rose

Brandywine

your own from seed or purchase a quality

heirloom plant, the value is incredible. And

did I mention the flavour?

RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own

Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be

found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays,

and at various gardening events around the region.


38 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

The BUZZ ... new and notable

The 2014 London’s Local Flavour Culinary

Guide is hot off the press. A project by eatdrink

magazine for Tourism

London, the guide

provides a rich overview of the

city’s breadth of exciting dining

and shopping opportunities.

The guide goes out to Ontario

Travel Centres, London’s Tourism

Information Centres, and major

entry points to the city, such

as the London International

Airport, the VIA Rail station, the

London Convention Centre, the

Downtown London office, as well

as at dozens of local businesses,

libraries and the farmers’ markets. It’s

also available online, with links both

on the Tourism London website and

the eatdrink site. For information on

outstanding local restaurants, culinary

retailers, and our farmers’ markets, there is

no more comprehensive resource available.

Get your copy; it’s a keeper. For a view of the guide and more, go

to www.londontourism.ca/culinary

2014

LONDON’S

Local

Flavour

20

14

Restaurants • Culinary Retail

Farmers’ Markets • Food Festivals

londontourism.ca

Local

Flavour

Served Here

London’s Garlic’s of London and La

Casa are both celebrating 20 years in

business. Marienbad and Chaucer’s

Pub will be celebrating their 40th

anniversary this June. Heartfelt

congratulations all around.

Wen Bei Li’s Chinese Five

Fortune Club Restaurant and

arts and culture centre is expected

to open in early March at the

southeast corner of Richmond and

King Street. The cuisine will be a

combination of Yunnan, Sichuan

and Guizhou influences.

The Japanese-inspired Sakata

Bar and Grill has opened in

the premises that Blue Ginger

previously occupied on Richmond Street.

SINCE 1819

AT THE

ARVA FLOUR MILL

6

Days

a

Week

Closed Mondays

Local, Artisan & Natural Products

from producers such as The Garlic Box & Gunn’s Hill Cheese

Local Natural & Certified Organic Frozen Meats

Beef • Poultry • Pork • Bison • Water Buffalo • Deli Meats

Wild-caught Salmon, Halibut, Scallops & Tuna

Coffee • Tea • Frozen Wheatgrass Juice

A Variety of Gluten-free Products

OUTLET

Local Cheeses • Certified Organic Frozen Vegetables

Gourmet Sauces • Olive Oils • Preserves • Natural Soaps & Skincare Products

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON • 519-601-6456

www.arvamillhouse.com


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 39

Meals on Wheels will be holding their annual event, called

“Walk for Wheels,” at Covent Garden Market, upstairs on

the Mezzanine on March 28th from 2-4 p.m.

The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market operated by

Christine Sheer is London’s only 100% producer-based

market. This means that every vendor at the market sells what

they grow, raise, bake, and preserve themselves. For more info

about The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market, including recipes

and special events, go to the farmers’ market blog, at

www.coventgardenfarmersmarket.com

UpFront at the Market, in the southwest corner of Covent

Garden Market, and Café One on Richmond Street both

closed in February.

and gluten-free options. The focus is on flavour, not heat, but

home-made hot sauce is available. 561 Southdale Rd Unit 9c.,

226-663-8452

The Curry Garden Restaurant has relocated. It is now south

of King Street on Richmond in the premises formerly occupied

by Los Comales. The Asian Buffet is relocating in the

premises formerly occupied by the Curry Garden Restaurant.

The 2014 seed season has started. Rick Weingarden and

Allan Watts, from Anything Grows SEED Company,

a permanent vendor at the Western Fair Farmers’ &

The new brain child of The Wolfe Brothers, “Rock Au Taco,”

next door to the Early Bird Diner, is serving up delicious and

authentic tacos and Mexican cuisine, ice cold cervezas, and

smooth tequila. www.theearlybird.ca

The Root Cellar, an organic café, bakery and juice bar in

Old East Village is expanding into the neighbouring premises

at 621 Dundas Street. The cafe is an offshoot of On the

Move Organics, a local company that unites people to local

certified organic food producers through its home delivery

service, its operations at Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’

Market, and the Dundas Street café. When completed this

spring the dining room will have tripled in size. In warm

weather diners will be able to enjoy the sidewalk patio.

www.fb.com/TheRootCellarOrganicCafe

Locomotive Espresso opened their doors mid-February

and is looking to fill a growing worldwide thirst for local,

independent coffee bars serving the highest quality

beverages. Locomotive is located at the corner of Pall Mall and

Colborne (at the railroad tracks), in the former Helen’s Variety.

Los Comales, known for its Mexican and Latin American

food, has reopened for casual dining or take-out with delivery

to be offered in the future. It offers many vegetarian, vegan

www.davidsbistro.ca

ALWAYS

a 3-course

prix fixe menu

option

432 Richmond St.

at Carling • London

London’s Celebration Destination

31

Lunch Weekdays

Dinner 7 Nights a Week

1 York Street

(just West of Ridout)

519-672-0111

Continental cuisine – with a

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From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Complimentary On Site Parking

Michael’s makes your celebration an event. www.michaelsonthethames.com

MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES


40 www.eatdrink.ca

Artisan’s Market on Saturdays, have hard-to-find seeds

and organic sprouting seeds available year round. With

a larger space, anything grows has expanded into other

categories: bird feeders, gloves, potted arrangements,

flower bulbs, sprout growers and hand-weeders, just

to name a few. This spring, enjoy the Anything Grows

advantage: A choice of five great seed suppliers — along

with their favourite gardening supplies — all available in

one spot. Whether you are a discerning veteran gardener

or an enthusiastic beginner, get the seed varieties you’re

looking for quickly and easily. www.anythinggrows.com

STUNNING VIEWS

EXCELLENT FOOD

AMBIANCE GALORE

CAFÉ OPEN TUES TO FRI, 11–4

SUN BRUNCH, 11–4

OPENING SOON!

AVAILABLE EVENINGS

for Private Dining, Weddings, Corporate Events,

Anniversary Dinners & Birthday Parties

at MUSEUM LONDON

theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Hope made Delicious. A Taste for Life Participating Taste

restaurants open their doors on Wednesday April 23rd and

donate 25% of the evening sales to AIDS Service Organizations

in the community. Support the men, women and children in

your community by going out to dinner. A Taste for Life serves

the regions of Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton and

Middlesex counties. Monforte on Wellington will be joining

Molly Blooms and Foster’s Inn in Stratford this year.

www.atasteforlife.org/london.htm

Chef Brian Magee will be opening FLAVURS Artisan

Kitchen & Bar in the premises formerly occupied by Smoke-

N-Bones on Wellington Road South at Southdale. The locallysourced

menus will find inspiration in updated versions of

globally inspired street food. FLAVURS will serve breakfast,

lunch and dinner.

Owner Jim Agathos’s The Dancing Greek (formerly the

Huron House) has closed. Agathos’s grandson Zack is

opening the Icarus Resto Bar in the premises formerly

occupied by the Coffee Culture on Richmond Street. The

Mediterranean-themed restaurant will have an open kitchen

and is expected to open in late March or early April.

Food Trucks

Last year London City Council agreed to get public feedback

on a proposed program to allow new-style food trucks. The

current bylaw was drafted to deal with catering trucks, hotdog

carts and other vendors that have traditionally been confined

to private parking lots and special events.

The City has revised their initial food truck plan, and

proposed a much less restrictive version that balances

the interests of stakeholders and encourages a vibrant

street food experience for the public. However, there are

restrictions. There is expected to be a 25-metre buffer zone

separating food trucks from existing restaurants. They

will also be required to stay clear of schools, which have

healthful-food guidelines.

In the meantime, an impartial food truck advisory review

panel made up of volunteer representatives (based on

London’s Urban Design Peer Review Panel) is being formed to

Enjoy a FREE Tasting Experience

Freshly milled extra virgin olive oils

from our award-winning producers,

sourced directly by Olive-Me.

Discover

Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bar YOUR Favourites!

1570 Hyde Park Road • Unit #7 • London

519-471-OLIV (6548) • www.olivemeco.com

Private

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Gift Boxes & Custom Sample Packs

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custom labeling is available.

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№ 46 | March/April 2014

provide expert opinion and recommendations regarding food

truck strategy in London.

In addition, the panel will be charged with encouraging

culturally diverse and original menu offerings, and

endorsing the promotion of healthy eating. Vendors would

be encouraged to be innovative and consider focusing on a

variety of nutritious, seasonal, fresh and local ingredients.

At the moment it appears that there will be no selection

criteria based on proposed menu offerings, business plan,

innovation, and level of vendor experience or overall impact

to London’s food truck/street food culture. However, it is too

early to try to define what that culture should look like, and

consumers will ultimately determine its future and success.

Out-of-Town

Chris and Mary Woolf have returned to St. Marys. Little

Red’s Pub and Eatery opened in mid- February, at 159

Queen Street. The Woolfs always made a trip to the former

Woolfy’s well worth the drive. www.woolfys.com

Paint Ontario is a project of the Grand Bend Art Centre

and runs March 8–30. This 18th annual juried show of

representational art is a competition, an exhibition, and a

sale, and is being held in the Lambton Heritage Museum

in Grand Bend. www.paintontario.com

Chef Gus Merkies from the Schoolhouse Restaurant in

Grand Bend has introduced a new menu and added a Prix

Fixe dinner menu. He will also be participating in the second

annual Arts, Eats and Beats weekend featuring local artists,

chef-inspired eats and live music, in May.

www.grandbendschoolhouse.ca

LONDON ARTISTS’

STUDIO TOUR

May 2, 3 & 4

www.londonstudiotour.ca

Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed

Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

The Hessenland Country Inn reopens for the weekends in

April, with their annual Spring Wedding and Event Fair

the last weekend of that month. Hessenland, famous for Chef

Frank Ihrig’s innovative German-style cuisine, is located along

the shores of Lake Huron between Bayfield and Grand Bend, just

outside the hamlet of St. Joseph. www.hessenland.com

Chef/Owner James Eddington advises us that his

Eddington’s of Exeter restaurant will be closed March 9–24

for renovations. Selected by the province of Ontario as one of

our best “destination restaurants” in the Days Out Ontario

program, Eddington’s has long been satisfying appreciative

diners with seasonal menus using local producers, and is well

deserving of this honour. Exeter is a pleasant 30-minute drive

north of London. www.eddingtons.ca

While the past few months of severe winter weather have put

a damper on things for a number of restaurants, Rich Hunter

of The King Edward pub in Ilderton reports especially brisk

business, in part due to their proximity to an excellent snowmobile

trail. Glad to hear it, Rich! www.thekingedward.com

• Vegetarian

Options

• Takeout

• Catering

• Reservations

Recommended

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant

Tues–Fri 5–1pm • Sat 12–1pm • Sun 2–1pm

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222

www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com


Your love of all things Italian begins at

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Stratford

The Bakery at Pazzo closed in mid-February. The owners

of Pazzo are looking forward to unveiling a brand new Pazzo

experience this April.

Rundles has announced that it will be open for its 37th season

from May 23 to September 20, 2014. www.rundlesrestaurant.com

The Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival,

usually held in September, will take place earlier this year, on

the weekend of July 18–20.,This has become one of Ontario’s

largest food festivals, and celebrates local cuisine, talented chefs

and passionate food producers. www.savourstratford.com

The restaurant and lounge are now open at The Bruce. The

hotel will be opening May 24th. The Restaurant is open for dinner

Thursday through Saturday at 5:00 pm with the last reservation at

9:00 p.m.; The Lounge is open late night. www.thebruce.ca

There’s always a lot going on at Mercer Hall. The Craft Beer

Dinner Series continues, with Silversmith on Mar 20th and

Beau’s on April 17th. Includes a 4-course chef-inspired menu

& four 10 oz. craft brews! Limited seating, meet the brewery

reps and talk about craft beer. www.mercerhall.ca

Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting: Cider and Cheese.

Sample some of the newest offerings from the LCBO, perfectly

paired with a selection of exciting cheeses. The Milky Whey

Fine Cheese Shop, 118 Ontario Street. Saturday March 29,

Celebrating our 20 th Anniversary

481 Richmond Street, London

519.432.4092


№ 46 | March/April 2014

2014 themilkywhey@rogers.com www.themilkywhey.ca

Craft Beer Dinner Series: Taste and learn about some tasty

local craft beer. Keith from Beau’s All Natural brings his

knowledge and love of beer to the long tabled dinner of 4

courses paired with 4 craft brews. Mercer Hall, 104 Ontario

Street. Thursday, April 17 2014 www.mercerhall.com

Take a self-guided taste of maple delights at various food

shops and restaurants on the Savour Stratford Maple Trail

this spring. More info at www.visitstratford.ca/mapletrail

GE CAFÉ Chef Cooking Class Series is back. Join celebrated

chefs in the kitchen for an exclusive hands-on cooking

experience. Pairings of alcoholic beverages are served with

each lunch. Take-home recipes are included. Overnight

packages are available and tickets can be purchased online at

www.visitstratford.ca/gechefs

From the Field

to Our Kitchen to

EST. 1996

Your Table

Local Ontario Ingredients

Non-GMO • Organic Lines

Canning Classes

Wedding Favours & Gift Baskets Available

London, Ontario

519-680-7912 • surelyhomemade.com

fb.com/eatdrinkmag

twitter.com/eatdrinkmag

Our readers want to know, so send us info about your

culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. We’ll print

as much as we can, and there is no charge for this service.

With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to:

editor@eatdrink.ca.

Express Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking

bistro & caterer

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com


44 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

kitchen design

When an “Old” Kitchen Is the Goal

Keeping your kitchen design consistent with the rest of your home

By CHRIS McDONELL

Old Castle Renovations specializes in

old house — and century home —

renovations and

restorations.

“Your home is at the centre

of your family’s life,” says

Old Castle President Mike

Hodgson. “And the kitchen

is the centre of your home.”

Over 80% of the houses

Hodgson renovates are

50 to 120 years old, which

brings unique challenges.

Many homeowners are not

looking to plunk a modern,

minimalist kitchen into

their traditional home. They

want a consistent style that

enhances the look and feel

of the rest of the house, but

of course they don’t want

to sacrifice the benefits of

contemporary technology

and equipment. Cast iron

and galvanized plumbing

needs to be replaced, jacking,

levelling and underpinning

of foundations is sometimes

necessary, and plenty more,

and that’s before addressing

the other important issue

of what the final project will

look like.

“Building modern kitchen

amenities into an old or

historic home without

disturbing its original

architectural integrity is one

of the most difficult tasks

in a home renovation,” says

Hodgson. “We seamlessly

incorporate these technologies

BEFORE

1960s renovation

A wall oven, the height of fashion when this century home was

renovated in the 1960s, went out of favour for awhile. While large restaurantstyle

ranges are centrepieces in many modern kitchens, this microwave/

double oven combo works beautifully in this traditional space.


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 45

A built-in dinette with inviting curves fits perfectly at

the head of basement stairs, with the half-wall making

a vast improvement over the railing that was there

previously. Millwork matching the cabinetry finishes

the look, and under-seat storage drawers are accessible

from the ends of the bench. A ball-footed pedastal table

with a beautifully simple top eases access to the seating

and custom-made damask-covered cushions reflect the

cabinet and wall colours. A rustic pendant light, Persianstyle

carpet and simple drapes and wall accents add

character and charm to this inviting corner of the kitchen.

into your older home without destroying its

irreplaceable identity.” Repairing or replacing

period mouldings, recreating historic casings

to match existing woodwork, refreshing

antique hardware ... all can be critical to the

result. “It is possible to enjoy the comfort and

modern conveniences while living in a period

dwelling,” says Hodgson, who confesses this

work is his passion. “Alternatively, we have

modernized the look of many older houses

into open, free-flowing environments that

maximize the use of space.”

Understanding the challenges involved

in any renovation, and working to minimize

those, is Hodgson’s responsibility. But

before that begins, he first needs to get

the contract for the job. A free in-home

design consultation is part of the process,

and Hodgson is glad to offer this to anyone

exploring a kitchen or home renovation, but

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46 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Black and White is a timeless design

motif, but in an older home, a slightly

softer palette proves more fitting. The

off-white low-sheen paint on the cabinetry

contrasts effectively with the deep grey

quartz countertops buffed to a high gloss.

A white subway tile backsplash bridges

the two surfaces effectively and adds a

further textural element to the space,

as do the placement of just a few glassfronted

upper cabinets. A family-friendly

hardwood floor completes the classic

combination of materials.

The cabinetry features a simple profile and

appropriate brushed nickel hardware. The

dishwasher and cooktop hood are tastefully

concealed, letting small but elegant details

such as the arches above the “barely there”

cooktop and double sink (mimicked in the

island’s open shelving) shine. The large

corbels that define the two work zones are

the grandest statement in the room, but

they too are tastefully discrete in style, as

are the small flares in the countertop edge

that parallel the corbels.

Crown moulding not only looks good in its

own right, it can also mask the variances in

ceiling height and crooked walls that are

so common in older homes. Craftsmanship

is key to disguising the issue rather than

highlighting it with unseemly gaps.


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 47

he encourages homeowners to take the lead

initially. “If you are interested in renovating

your kitchen, buy yourself a binder and start

filling it with ideas. You will be amazed how

quickly the style you are looking for comes

together, followed by a wish list. Once you

have the style and your wish list in hand, the

next item on your list will be the budget.”

A work-area needs analysis and

establishing a budget are key to developing

a proposal. How much to spend is the

big question for most homeowners, and

Hodgson encourages them to consider

how long they intend on living in their

home, and how much they can reasonably

expect to get back when selling the house.

Once the homeowner is comfortable with a

figure, the detailed kitchen design process

can begin. “There is nothing to gain by

giving a client a design that they cannot

afford,” says Hodgson.

If everything is a go, then complete site

measurements are taken and a design

development with 3D renderings is

completed. Product selection consultations

ensue, and before any work begins,

itemized project costing ensures everyone

is on the same page. Expectations are

clearly laid out, and while unforeseen

issues can crop up, particularly when

renovating an older home, the goal is “no

surprises.” Hodgson is frank. “Be prepared

for your life to be interrupted during this

process,” he says. “But remember what the

goal is, and it will all be worth it in the end.”

Hodgson includes a gallery of past

projects on the Old Castle website (www.

old-castle.ca), and each have their own

story. The kitchen shown in this article is

in part a restoration of work that was done

over a century ago. This Old North London

home “suffered” a 1960s renovation,

but Hodgson talks excitedly about the

inspiration he got seeing the original

blueprints for the home, first built for one

of the Blackburn family, founding owners

of the London Free Press. “They were

beautiful,” he says earnestly. It is clear the

past is important to him.

CHRIS McDONELL is the publisher of eatdrink. His binder

of ideas for his 50-year-old kitchen is getting dated.

Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares,

tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.

115 King Street, London

519-645-1335 www.jillstable.ca

London’s

Kitchen

Renovation

Specialists

Kitchens

Bathrooms

Large Additions

Victorian Restorations

519.860.9640

www.old-castle.ca


48 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

wine

Biodynamic and Organic Wines

Discover them in Ontario

By KIM MILLER

It seems as though the technological

age may have come full circle. As a

society we are looking back to our roots

in many different areas of our lives.

We seem to be more aware of the cycles of

nature and the importance of taking care of

our planet. In the realm of viniculture, three

grape producers in Ontario are certified

to sell organic wines and two are able to

market their wines as biodynamic.

To be certified ‘organic’, you must prove

that your farm is free of synthetic pesticides

and preservatives, chemical fertilizers,

hormones, antibiotics and genetically

modified organisms; demonstrate the

humane treatment of animals and the

preservation of ecological integrity; and

maintain and record these practices for 36

months prior to certification. In addition, an

application for certification must be made

15 months before you intend to market your

first wine.

If that doesn’t sound complicated enough,

there are five different certifying bodies in

Ontario to choose from. Each is recognized

by the Ministry of Food and Agriculture, and

certifies all kinds of products, not just wine.

Oddly, our three wineries are each certified

by a different agency.

Southbrook Vineyards green commitment includes using sheep

for weed and bug removal in the spring and early summer

Fruits o;f the vine, at Frogpond Farm

Frogpond Farm Organic Winery

This renowned Niagara-on-the-Lake

property was the first winery in Ontario to be

certified organic. The producers chose to be

represented by “The Organic Crop Producers

and Processors.” Frogpond’s tagline is

“Harmony in nature is the prerequisite for

truly authentic wine.” It’s obvious they take

this mantra to heart — they have

been Bullfrog-powered since

2006, using 100% green electricity

which is produced by wind and

low-impact water power.

Southbrook Vineyards

and Tawse Winery

The next two wineries are certified

as both organic and biodynamic.

One must first be certified as

organic before transitioning

to biodynamic. Biodynamic

farming was the brainchild of

Rudolf Steiner, the father of the


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 49

Waldorf Schools. Biodynamic farming is

practised in over fifty countries worldwide. It

encompasses all of the properties of organic

farming, and then some.

Biodynamics takes organic farming to

the next level. The whole farm is treated as

a living entity and holistic ecosystem, from

the rumbles of the earth beneath to the

stars far above. Biodynamic farmers track

the movement of the stars and the moon to

determine when to sow and when to reap.

In Berlin, Germany, in 1927, Demeter

International became recognized as the one

and only governing body for biodynamic

certification worldwide. This organization

is named after Demeter, the goddess of the

harvest in ancient Greek religion and myth.

Both Southbrook Vineyards and Tawse

hold dual certification. They’ve earned two

different Ontario organic certifications,

and also hold worldwide designation for

biodynamic farming.

Southbrook Vineyards is a sprawling

150-acre estate in Niagara-on-the-Lake,

owned by Bill and Marilyn Redelmeier.

Their mission statement is “To make the

finest wines possible in a respectful, local,

light-on-the-land fashion.” Their organic

certification board of choice is “Pro-Cert

Organics.” Southbrook has the distinction of

being the first wine estate in Canada to earn

both organic and biodynamic certification

for vineyard and winery back in 2008.

Southbrook has been awarded LEED®

Gold certification for its buildings, grounds

and activities, including the creation of a

bioswale with native wetland plants to break

down pollution from stormwater draining

off the access road and parking lots.

And yet another first for this scribe:

Bioflavia. It is an Organic Red Wine Grape

Tawse Winery, from the

vineyard endposts

Skin Powder considered new and innovative

on the market. This product is an excellent

source of antioxidants required for the

maintenance of good health. It was featured

on the Dr. Oz show and is made and sold

right here in southern Ontario. All the health

benefits of red wine in powder form in a jar,

with no alcohol! Wait a minute ...

Tawse Winery’s organic certification

was provided by Ecocert. With winemaker

Paul Pender at the helm, Tawse has won a

bedazzling number of prestigious Ontario

wine awards, including 2011 Winemaker of

the Year at the Ontario Wine Awards. Maybe

this is because Pender treats the whole farm

as a single living organism. Composts are

specially prepared for each crop, herbal

teas are added to the soil, and the activity of

his farm is aligned to that of the earth, the

moon and the stars. And it works! Organic

and biodynamic wineries are consistently

winning more and more medals in the

international wine community. The quality

of the product speaks for itself.

Consider reducing your carbon footprint

by enjoying organic and biodynamic wines

grown right here in Ontario.

Frogpond Farm Organic Winery

1385 Larkin Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake

www.frogpondfarm.ca

Southbrook Vineyards

581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake

www.southbrook.com

Tawse Winery

3955 Cherry Avenue, Vineland

www.tawsewinery.ca

The view from the back of Southbrook’s

LEED-certifed building overlooks the vines

KIM MILLER lives in London with her spouse and two children.

This is why she studies the many attributes of wine...


50 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

BEER MATTERS

beer matters

Those Marvellous Mutts

The Wonders of Hybrid Beers

By THE MALT MONK

At a favourite craft beer oasis

recently I was presented with a

prime sampling of what I had

been craving for a while. It was a

hybrid style not often seen on tap and it hit

the spot! It also got me thinking about this

whole genre of beers, which do not get the

esteem due them nor enough exposure in

the local craft brew market. Many ale purists

pass these styles by, the same way a mongrel

dog is shunned by pedigree fanciers. For my

tastes the hybrid beers are wonderful mutts

that just need an opportunity to become a

best of breed winner.

Hybrids are beers that, unlike Kim Mitchell’s

dilemma, don’t make you “choose between

lager and ale.” They are both. Some were born

out of necessity, some from fine tradition,

some the result of brewer innovation. Hybrid

beers sometimes have lager character with

ale flavour, and sometimes ale character with

lager flavour. In any case, they are in a unique

niche that straddles the line between the two

macrocosms of the beer universe. Hybrid

beers can be a good choice for beer drinkers

who like the flavour of big ales but not the

sharp character, and for ale drinkers who

want a smoother alternative which drinks

well in a sitting.

Let’s look at what makes hybrids

so special, avoiding an eye-rolling

microbiology lesson. Simply put, a

hybrid is the result of changing either

the traditional brewing method for a

given style, or the type of yeast used

in an ale or lager recipe. Lagers have

a process which requires a long cold

secondary fermentation and a coldtolerant

yeast. Ale is brewed at warm

temperatures and uses yeast which

performs best at warm temperatures.

It is finished in a warmer environment,

and ready sooner than lager. This

gives it some wonderful fruity tastes and

aromas, but also a sharp and distinctly fresh

character. Lager’s cold fermenting and long

cold conditioning gives a mellow rounded

brew with malty-earthy character and no

fruity aroma. So, when a brewer pitches

warm fermenting ale yeast at cooler lager

temperatures or pitches a cold fermenting

lager yeast at warm temperatures, or cold

ages an ale or warm conditions a lager, we

get hybridization and a beer which displays

elements of both types of beers.

Some common hybrids in the lighter

end of the genre are Kölsch, cream ale, and

American pilsner. Kölsch is a cold lagered

German pale ale made with Pilsner malt.

Cream ale is a North American innovation —a

golden ale is cold fermented or pitched with

a hybrid strain of yeast. American pilsner

is listed as a hybrid in the style guides but

from my perspective it is just a debasement

of Czech pilsner that uses gristed corn and/

or rice adjuncts. The local craft beer market

has a number of examples of these the

lighter hybrids but not the darker, more

robust hybrids. My preference gravitates

to the darker, more substantial side of

the hybrid genre. One of these darker

hybrids is the copper coloured historic

brew from the Dusseldorf region of

Germany called Altbier. The other is

“California common” aka “steam beer.”

Both are among my preferred pub quaffs

because they are balanced, flavourful

and drink wonderfully alone or paired

with a wide variety of foods.

Altbier is a long time favourite and I have


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 51

written about the style’s origins at length here,

so I won’t dwell on that aspect as much as the

character of the style, and a wonderful

sub-class called sticke alt. The word

“alt” means old in German, so

altbier refers to an old style of beer

that traces its origin to the days

before lager brewing in Germany.

Alts are amber ales, from the use

of Munich malts. They have a bit of

rich complexity in their malt profile

similar to a Dunkel but with distinct

nut-like earthy flavours. Alt is

usually dry finishing and has a good

amount of bittering hops, with some

examples showing relatively potent

hopping. This is essentially an amber

ale fermented cold (with hybrid

yeast) and cold conditioned (aged)

like lager — thus the mellow malty

flavour, yet dry and hoppy. A firstrate

quaff and very easy drinking.

Commonly available examples are Duckstein

Alt, Beau’s great Festivale Alt, True North

Copper Altbier and Creemore’s excellent

Collaboration Altbier.

A variation called sticke or “secret alt” is

bigger and bolder in flavour and strength.

It was historically called a secret beer

because it was usually an exceptionally good

batch of Altbier the brewer held back for

himself and friends. Later it was released

to customers (only twice a year) but the

recipe was “secret.” Sticke alt is altbier on

steroids, originally a brewer’s mistake in

using too much malt and hops, sticke alt is

a more intense dose of all the traditional alt

facets — full-bodied, well-hopped, perfect

balance between bitterness and nutty-malty

sweetness, strong notes of chocolate and

toasted grains, deep copper colour with

complexity of an ale, aromatic hop aroma

and the heading of a pilsner, yet the clean

dry finish and sturdy body of an Oktoberfest

marzen. It is to amber ale what bockbier is

to lagers. I love this beer style and buy up

all I can when it is available. We have only a

couple of sticke altbiers made domestically

— Beau’s Festivale Plus (which is a

superbly balanced malt bomb) and Les

Trois Mousquetaires S.S. Sticke Alt from

Quebec — a highly-rated beer available in

limited quantity once a year.

Sun–Tues 11am–midnight, Wed/Thurs 11am–1am, Fri/Sat 11am–2am


52 www.eatdrink.ca

For even more intense sticke altbier tastes

there is a “dopplesticke.” A double altbier

brewed to imperial strengths (8–9% abv) in

small batches (comparable to a Dopplebock

lager), this rare hybrid brew usually is not

available except through import. Too bad — I

think it would give a lot of imperial ales some

major competition in this market.

Finally we come to another North American

hybrid — “steam beer” or California common.

This style was the result of necessity and pioneer

brewer innovation, born in the era of the

California gold rush when lager was the new

rage and the frontier lacked the ice, cold water

and cold cellaring to make lager properly.

Frontier brewers used large open fermenting

pans to cool the beer wort quickly to pitch

the heat-intolerant lager yeast. Lots of steam

escaped from these pans. They then fermented

the lager yeast at warm temperatures and aged

it at warmer temperatures. This warm aging

made a very effervescent brew with profuse

carbonation that gave the beer a large frothy

head. It was also well hopped to cover some

№ 46 | March/April 2014

of the nasty tastes in frontier water. The style

was almost defunct until resurrected by modern

west coast craft brewers. The new crafted

variation of steam beer genre is referred to as

“California common” and was pioneered by

Anchor Brewing of San Francisco.

Generally, crafted steam beer is light

amber to copper in colour, lightly fruity,

moderately malty with firm hop bitterness.

The malt character is usually toasty and

caramelly. Hop qualities feature woody, rustic,

minty discernment. Medium bodied, malt

pronounced with clean crisp pilsner character

which finishes fairly dry with a hop bite. Has

both ale fruitiness and lager malty complexity

and clean crispness. Steam beer is underinterpreted

by local craft brewers and that is

our loss, but there are some good examples

available. The prime examples are Anchor

Steam — the benchmark of the style and my

personal go-to session brew — and Flying

Dog Old Scratch (sometimes seen on special

order). Recently, I’ve added Kingpin Steam

Beer from Northwinds Brewery to this list.

Malt Monk’s Taste of the Month

Northwinds Brewing Kingpin Steam Beer

— This Collingwood microbrewer

has been impressing me with a

steady output of solid offerings.

The latest is their rendition of the

steam beer style called Kingpin. I

sampled this recently on tap and

was impressed enough to order a

couple because it drank well and it

filled a craving I have for the style.

Believe me, it pairs well with smoky

barbeque and sharp cheese. This is

a light amber beer with a big frothy

white cap — hints of fruit in the

aroma, medium bodied, toasty-caramel malt

is well balanced with woody hops,

mildly complex with a crisp dry

finish and hop bite. A very decent

representation of the style. I’ll order

it any time I see it on tap.

THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R.

Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer

culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at

maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 53

BEER MATTERS

theatre

Success Is Its Own Reward

Donald DISHES on Theatre

By DONALD D’HAENE

“ W

hy don’t you do awards

for professional theatre

in London?” a Toronto

director asked me two

years ago. I informed him

that, “One theatre would be nominated in

every category!” He then suggested some of

our amateur theatre groups should consider

moving into professional waters. “Then they

wouldn’t get any awards!” I joked.

But since then there has been some

movement in that direction. Tempting

Tree Theatre Collective debuted its first

professional production Reasons to be Pretty

last month, and A Missing Link Theatre

Company (AMLTC ) has their sixth on the

boards (Billy Bishop Goes to War at the

McManus Studio until March 8).

Rick Kish told me he started AMLTC

“to create opportunities for members of

Canadian Actors Equity Association to work

in London.” Luckily for us that, while some

might think his company is a ‘bridge too

far’, Kish assured me the company is also

within reach of non-pros. It “was designed

to bring together pros and non that want to

experience the way a company works under

professional union standards.”

When I asked Kish if he felt he’s had the

support of his peers, he assured me he had.

“Over 55 community members, including

artists and volunteers ranging from 15 to 75

years, have found AMLTC within their reach.”

Kish has also had the encouragement

of The Grand Theatre, the granddaddy of

professional theatre in London. “They have

been very supportive of

this initiative and really

want us to succeed!”

Encourage your competition

... now that sounds like a great motto!

And so I spoke to The Grand Theatre’s

Artistic Director Susan Ferley, who is in the

middle of

her 13th

season at

the helm.

I asked

Ferley

the secret

of her

success

— besides her evident positive and

supportive spirit. “I guess the secret is there

is no secret. Stay curious, stay tuned to your

community, keep listening.”

How does Ferley keep challenging herself?

“I love what I do. I want to keep learning and

growing as a human being and as a theatre

artist.”

As for next season she promises “There

will be laughter, there will be music,

there will be drama.” That formula is

probably another secret to her success.

It is showcased this season with two very

different shows on deck.

The drama Other Desert Cities (February

18–March 8) is intriguing. A daughter returns

home to announce she is about to publish

a memoir that will reveal a family secret.


54 www.eatdrink.ca

Wanna bet something’s going to hit the fan?

The script was written by the creator of the hit

television show Brothers & Sisters.

Then a local favourite

follows: The 25th Annual

Putnam County Spelling Bee

(March 18–April 12). Can you

spell H-I-L-A-R-I-O-U-S, as in

musical comedy? Ferley did

flag it as perhaps a bit racy for

children. (Okay, I’ve passed

that along Susan, but I’ll bet

that will only help sell tickets!)

Six young people in the throes

of adolescence compete for

the spelling championship

of a lifetime. Overseen by

grown-ups who have barely

managed to escape childhood

themselves, these charming

overachievers learn that

winning isn’t everything and

that losing does not necessarily

make you a failure.

I guess that’s a metaphor for another

secret to success, whether amateur or

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№ 46 | March/April 2014

professional — risking failure, hoping for

success and learning a ton along the way.

I’d like to shed

some light on a new

up-and-coming

star on the horizon

who is doing just

that. A lot of people

throw around

superlatives as part

of an introduction

nowadays. Yes,

I am stating

Londoners are

famous for being

easily impressed.

Personally, I

have found a few

producers stand

out. They are the

ones who receive all

the press, because

they are good at

what they do.

Although Trish West has only three oneact

shows under her belt, and all under the

umbrella of other organizations (such as the

London One Act Festival at the McManus),

she has proved herself a quick study with

her upcoming show Skin Deep (April 2–5).

Certainly she’d be the first to admit she has

learned a ton by performing in a number of

shows over the past six years.

“I started by writing down my objectives,

goals and dreams. Then I asked questions

of individuals who have produced shows

successfully, and watched how other

productions caught my attention on

Facebook, social media or by word of mouth.”

West has worked overtime to reach high

school students in the area, and encouraging

them to contribute art works that will be

displayed in the gallery of The ARTS Project

where her show will be mounted. West was

able to arrange sponsors for the exhibit,

which echoes themes found within her play.

Notwithstanding awards, and professional

or amateur status in whatever degree,

success is one’s own reward, and something

we all can celebrate.

DONALD D’HAENE is Editor of donaldsdish.ca. Twitter @

TheDonaldNorth and email: donalddhaene@hotmail.com.


№ 46 | March/April 2014

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56 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

books

The Culinary Arts

From Scratch: Inside the Food Network

by Allen Salkin

Review by DARIN COOK

We live in an age where

watching cooking shows

could take up more of a

person’s time than actually

cooking. Originally, the culinary arts

referred to the skill and artistry that went

into cooking real food; now we have the art

of showcasing the culinary arts through the

media. And no entity has done it with such

gusto and success as Food Network.

The history of Food Network since its

inception in 1993 is chronicled in Allen

Salkin’s book From Scratch: Inside the Food

Network (G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 2013, $29.50).

The book starts out by stating: “Somehow

Food Network captured an audience that did

not know that it wanted twenty-four hours a

day of food television. Then, having roped in

the early adopters, the network figured out

how to create an even bigger audience. Food

Network is not single-handedly responsible

for the ‘food revolution,’ but it took what was

happening in some food-forward pockets of

the world … and delivered it to everybody.”

It is interesting to note that the concept

was not the brainchild of

passionate chefs, but rather

executives making strategic

decisions to cash in on the

rise of specialty cable stations,

following in the footsteps of

CNN, MTV, and HBO. The

businessmen behind its

creation were not epicureans,

and it took some imaginative

searching to come up with a

cast of TV-friendly chefs that

could pull off hosting their

own shows.

Robin Leach, already

famous for Lifestyles of the Rich

and Famous, was drawn in

as a recognized

personality to

host a food-related

talk show. The earliest food expert,

David Rosengarten, was hired for a regular

show called Food News and Views. Salkin

writes that Rosengarten’s “marriage of fine

cuisine, ego, and vaudevillian showbiz

schmaltz would set the tone for what viewers

experienced of the network in its early years.”

Certain individuals were making it obvious

that “chefs had the kind of big personalities

and charisma that could lead to show

business careers.”

Emeril Lagasse, a chef with some renown

in New Orleans, was an early import to host

a show called How to Boil Water. This first

show was not dynamic enough to fit with

the larger-than-life persona of Lagasse, but

it didn’t take long for Emeril Live to come

along, which proved to be a turning point

for the network by mixing variety shows

with live cooking demonstrations. In the

book there is a strong focus on Lagasse, who

was the first chef to get a million dollar TV

deal. The demise of Lagasse’s

ten-year run on Food

Network was instigated by

the executives’ need to keep

up with the changes in food

programming with shows

that ventured outside the

studio kitchen.

In fact, cancelling shows

and changing with the times

were all part of the behindthe-scenes

business of the

network. Before becoming a

money-making machine with

food as its fuel, there were

Allen Salkin


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 57

early financial troubles. Yanking the cord

on the channel was on option during many

ownership changes in the first three years

of production. But sticking with it resulted

in 2007 revenues near $500 million, and by

2012 the network was estimated to be worth

$3 billion.

A string of business leaders came in to

guide the station to success. Most were

interested in using food as a business

catalyst, not as a way to make a mark in

food culture. But that mark was being

made nonetheless, due to the dedication

of some staff on the lookout for the next

big thing to stretch the boundaries of food

programming. Quirky shows that strayed

from the standard fare started appearing

in 1999, like the kitschy Iron Chef out of

Japan that developed a cult following, and

Alton Brown’s Good Eats, a smart, offbeat,

slapstick approach to food education. The

ratings for Iron Chef alone were double those

of the Food Network average, and after this

success the executives decided to use more

entertainment food shows rather than the

traditional “dump and stir” format normally

associated with cooking shows.

Food Network was also an early adopter

of mixing internet and television with a

25,000-recipe library webpage available

by 2004. Sharing recipes with the audience

brought them even closer to the extended

family that was growing all the time, with

household names like Rachel Ray, Jamie

Oliver, Paula Deen, Anthony Bourdain,

and Ina Garten. This sense of family was

spread further when competition shows

were introduced as a way for anyone to

send in an audition tape and earn on-air

time as a culinary personality working

alongside cooking superstars. It is both

these types of seasoned chefs and amateur

home cooks who can, from scratch, get

inside Food Network themselves, because

this media juggernaut continues to provide

opportunities for culinary personalities to

rise to fame and fortune.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who works and plays in

Chatham-Kent, and keeps himself well-read and well-fed by

visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.

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58 www.eatdrink.ca

cookbooks

Grain Power

By Patricia Green and Carolyn Hemming

Review and Recipe Selections by CHRIS McDONELL

№ 46 | March/April 2014

GRAIN POWER

Bestselling

Authors of

Quinoa

Revolution

Over 100 Delicious gluten-free

Ancient Grain & Superblend Recipes

While definitely on trend

themselves, there is no doubt

that sisters Patricia Green and

Carolyn Hemming have also

been catalysts in the popularization of the

once obscure grain quinoa. The authors of

Quinoa Revolution (2012), which followed

Quinoa 365: The Everyday Superfood

(2010), were bestsellers that have helped

make quinoa almost ubiquitous today. The

“Quinoa Sisters” are back again with a new

book. Grain Power allows them to broaden

their recipe selection utilizing a wider range

of “healthy and delicious gluten-free ancient

grains.” The results are as promised

For those who years ago embraced oat

bran as a cure-all for the things things that

ail us, in particular our battle with “bad”

cholesterol, you’ll be glad to know that

Green and Hemming still endorse oats

as one of the “superfoods” at the heart of

the 100 recipes in Grain Power. Amaranth,

buckwheat, chia, kañiwa, millet, sorghum

and teff — and of course quinoa — round

out the core list of ingredients, and there are

clear, straightforward instructions for how to

purchase and cook all of them. I was also glad

to see the authors encourage looking for Fair

Trade brands. I need to interject that this is no

earnest-but-bland approach to

cooking and eating healthily.

The basics of getting nutricious

grains into your diet, such

as a Creamy Slow-Cooked

Steel-Cut Oats, harkens back

to my grandfathers’ breakfast

of choice, but touches such

as the addition of pure

vanilla extract and the use

of a slow cooker accentuate

the flavour and convenience

factors. The Breakfast section

of the book is actually quite

a lively one, with interesting

variations on crêpes, waffles

and granola (you

saw that coming)

and dishes such as

a Prosciutto & Kale

Kañiwa Frittata

with Romano

Cheese that could

PATRICIA GREEN

CAROLYN HEMMING

easily be served for lunch or dinner as

well. Lush photographs of most of the dishes

also serve to inspire, and small but significant

variations are frequently added, helpful for

accommodating personal tastes as well as

utilizing what is in your pantry. The book is

also well indexed, for similar purposes.

An enticing variety of appetizer, lunch

and dinner recipes are featured — see the

following recipes for examples — and it

is easy to imagine some of these ancient

grain recipes becoming family favourites.

(I can also imagine readers adapting some

of their own recipes to utilize these grains.)

Convenient one-skillet dinners and whole

meal suggestions — with lots of comfort

foods — are included. My biggest surprise

was how the Desserts section of the book

really shines. The Chocolate Torte is a rather

decadent example —yes, please!— but there

are also lots of simpler cookie, square, muffin

and brownie recipes that have great appeal.

No one is advocating desserts

as a key to healthy eating,

but for those with diet

restrictions that so often have

to pass on treats, and those

who believe every step in the

right direction is a good idea,

there is a plenitude of great

recipes here.

CHRIS McDONELL is the publisher

of eatdrink. He likes quinoa.

“The Quinoa Sisters” Patricia Green

(left) and Carolyn Hemming


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 59

Recipes from Grain Power © 2014 by Patricia Green and Carolyn Hemming. Food Photography by Ryan Szule. Food Styling by Nancy

Midwicki. Prop Styling by Madeleine Johari. Published by The Penguin Group. All rights reserved.

Cheddar Cauliflower Amaranth Soup with Sherry & Thyme

Enjoy this savory soup with a sprinkle of chives across the top and

crusty bread or artisan crackers on the side. Cooked and puréed

amaranth makes a luxurious and creamy soup and also provides

additional nutrition.

Serves 4

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed oil

1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion

1½ tsp (7 mL) chopped garlic

4 cups (1 L) low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

2 cups (500 mL) peeled diced Yukon gold or red

potatoes

2 cups (500 mL) cauliflower, chopped into 1–inch

(2.5 cm) pieces

1/3 cup (75 mL) amaranth seeds

¼ cup (60 mL) sherry

2 tsp (10 mL) chopped fresh thyme

1 cup (250 mL) 1% milk, or milk substitute

1½ cups (375 mL) shredded reduced-fat aged

Cheddar cheese

½ tsp (2 mL) salt (optional)

Freshly ground black

pepper to taste

Sliced chives to garnish

(optional)

• Reserve 1 cup (250 mL) of cooked potato,

cauliflower and ancient grain mixture

after cooking for 20 minutes and before

puréeing. Add it again after the remainder

of the soup has been puréed to make for a

chunkier version.

• If you don’t have amaranth on hand or

want a change of flavour, an equal amount

of quinoa seeds or 2 cups (500 mL) of

precooked sorghum grains are great

ancient grain alternatives.

1 Heat a large saucepan

on medium-low heat.

Add the oil and onion.

Cover and cook for

about 7 minutes or until

the onion is opaque.

2 Stir in the garlic and

heat for an additional

minute. Stir in the stock,

potatoes, cauliflower,

amaranth, sherry and

thyme. Bring to a

boil, then reduce to a

simmer. Cover and cook

for 20 minutes.

3 Purée with an

immersion blender or

in small batches with a

standard blender until

smooth. Stir in the milk

and cheese. Add salt (if

using) and season with

pepper as desired. Heat

until cheese has melted.

Serve topped with

chives if you wish.


60 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

Oven-Roasted Herb Chicken over Tangy Apple & Cabbage Quinoa

Ancient grains, together with the fragrant aroma of herbed chicken, tart apples and

crisp cabbage, make a well-rounded meal that is familiar, wholesome and so tasty.

Serves 6

ROASTED HERB CHICKEN

1 roasting chicken (3 to 4 lb/1.5 to 2 kg), trussed

1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh thyme or 1 tsp

(5 mL) dried thyme

1 Tbsp (15 mL) minced garlic

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed or vegetable oil

½ tsp (2 mL) salt

TANGY APPLE & CABBAGE QUINOA

1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed or vegetable oil

½ cup (125 mL) chopped yellow onion

1 cup (250 mL) low-sodium chicken stock

½ to ¾ cup (125 to 175 mL) water

½ cup (125 mL) quinoa seeds

4 cups (1 L) shredded red cabbage, ½ inch (1 cm)

wide

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and

sliced ¼ inch (5 mm) thick

½ tsp (2 mL) salt (optional)

Pinch of freshly

ground black

pepper

2 Tbsp (30 mL)

brown sugar

2 Tbsp (30 mL) red

wine vinegar)

1 Preheat the oven to

375°F (190°C). Dry

the chicken with

paper towels and

place in a roasting

pan. Divide the

thyme and garlic

into four parts and

push under the

skin to cover the

breast and legs as

evenly as you can

(or put them into

the cavity). Rub the

skin with oil and

season with salt.

Roast, uncovered,

for 15 minutes.

2 Reduce the temperature

to 350°F

(180°C). Cover and

roast for an additional

30 minutes.

Remove the lid and

bake, uncovered,

until the leg will

move freely and the

juices run clear, 15

to 18 minutes per pound. Remove from the oven,

cover and keep warm.

3 To make the quinoa, heat a Dutch oven or large

saucepan on medium-low heat. Add the oil and

onion and cook, covered, for 5 to 7 minutes, until

onions start to become tender. Stir in the stock,

water and quinoa and bring to a boil. Reduce to

a simmer and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. Lay

the cabbage, apples, salt (if using) and pepper

on top of the cooking quinoa (don’t stir). Cover

and cook for an additional 10 to 15 minutes or

until the apples and cabbage are tender. Stir

in the brown sugar and vinegar until sugar is

dissolved and evenly distributed. Reseason with

additional sugar and vinegar if desired. Remove

skin and serve hot chicken over the quinoa with

apples and cabbage.


№ 46 | March/April 2014 www.eatdrink.ca 61

Chocolate Ancient Grain Torte with Raspberry Chia Sauce

Dessert powered with omega-3 nutrition, protein and plenty of vitamins and

minerals. Sorghum provides the base for this rich chocolate torte. Top it with

the raspberry chia sauce for a soul-satisfying dessert.

Serves 6

3¾ cups (925 mL) water

1¼ cups (300 mL) sorghum grains

1⁄3 cup (75 mL) unsalted butter, melted

1 large egg

3 large egg whites

¾ cup (175 mL) lightly

packed brown sugar

½ cup + 2 Tbsp (155 mL)

sifted unsweetened

cocoa powder

2 tsp (10 mL) pure vanilla

extract

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt

RASPBERRY CHIA SAUCE

1 cup (250 mL) fresh or

frozen raspberries

¼ cup (60 mL) white or

organic cane sugar

1 Tbsp (15 mL) chia seeds)

1 Bring the water and

sorghum to a boil in

a medium saucepan.

Reduce to a simmer

and cook, covered, for

60 minutes. Remove

from the heat, drain,

then cool (the sorghum

should be very tender).

2 Lightly grease a 9-inch

(23 cm) springform pan.

Cut a piece of parchment

to fit the bottom and

lightly grease the

parchment. Preheat the

oven to 350°F (180°C)

with the rack in the

center position.

3 Place 3 cups (750 mL)

of the cooled sorghum,

melted butter, egg, egg

whites, and brown sugar

in a blender. Purée until

smooth and no large

GrainPower-InteriorPress.indd 193

pieces remain. Transfer

batter to a medium

bowl and whisk in cocoa, vanilla and salt. Pour

batter into the prepared pan and bake for 40

minutes, until the center is no longer liquid but

still moist. Cool the torte for 2 hours.

4 To make the sauce, mash the raspberries with the

back of a fork in a shallow bowl. Stir in the sugar

and chia. Let set for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

GRAIN POWER

Bestselling

Authors of

Quinoa

Revolution

Over 100 Delicious gluten-free

Ancient Grain & Superblend Recipes

PATRICIA GREEN

CAROLYN HEMMING

5 Cut torte into desired servings and serve with

chilled Raspberry Chia Sauce.

• This torte is also terrific with 1½ cups (375 mL)

each of fluffy cooked millet and quinoa in

place of the sorghum.

2013-09-19 2:19 P


62 www.eatdrink.ca

№ 46 | March/April 2014

the lighter side

Another Emerging Wine Region!

By KYM WOLFE

Willow Springs Winery’s Vidal Ice Wine

As a young adult in Northern

Ontario, the only “regional” wine

I remember drinking was homemade

vino that someone had liberated

from their parents’ basement. I couldn’t

tell a merlot from a shiraz, but I did know

whose dad made the best wines. Even if it

was free, given a choice I’d take a bottle from

David’s house over Sergio’s any day. But if I

were buying … well really, who would take a

bottle of Ontario wine to a nice dinner party?

It seems that as my palate was maturing,

so was Ontario’s wine industry and as an

adult I’ve discovered the joy of fine wines

made close to home. I had already toured

Niagara, Prince Edward County, Pelee

Island and Lake Erie North Shore when I

read about Ontario’s newest emerging wine

regions north of Toronto. When I realized my

sister and I would drive through some prime

wine country on our girls’ getaway, we had

to plan our road trip accordingly.

We drove through the Oak Ridges Moraine

north of

Toronto,

and

dropped

by Willow

Springs

Winery.

Lovely

countryside

setting, literally

minutes

from the

north edge

of the GTA. Perfect place for a wedding, with

a villa by the spring-fed pond where the wedding

party can stay. After being sidetracked

by visions of our kids’ future weddings, we got

back to the task at hand — the wine!

During the impromptu tour and tasting we

learned that Willow Springs was the first VQA

winery in the region. And that the Testa family

has a long history of wine making, dating back

centuries to its roots in Italy. No one can tell us

whether the Testa patriarch who purchased

the land when he immigrated to Canada knew

that the terroir of the moraine made it an ideal

place to plant his grapevines. Whether it was

an informed or an instinctive decision, it is

clear now that it was a good one, as confirmed

by the silver medals its Vidal Ice Wine and

Merlot garnered at the 2012 Royal Agricultural

Winter Fair. We left with a bottle of Sauvignon

Blanc in hand and quite enjoyed it that

evening while sitting on the deck by the lake.

Fast forward to our drive home a few days

later. Our wine stock now depleted, we were

happy to stop at Magnotta Winery, just north

of the 401 in Vaughn. We were disappointed to

learn the winery’s closest vineyard was actually

in Niagara peninsula (hardly an emerging

region!) but that let-down quickly paled when

we began exploring. Magnotta’s flagship store

is worth a visit just for the visuals, from the

Italian-villa styled courtyard to the paintings

and sculptures indoors. The winery’s label

designs are based on their artwork, prompting

us to play “find the inspiration for this label,”

as we tried to match the wine bottles with the

paintings on the walls.

Magnotta is like a mini-LCBO, offering

180 different wines. The winery imports raw

materials from around the globe to make

custom blends, including from the family

vineyard in the Maipo Valley in Chile. One

claim to fame: Magnotta was the world’s

first producer of sparkling ice wines. Some

spirits, like the ice grappa and brandy, are

produced from its ice wine and icewine

grapes. Not content with being a globally

recognized winemaker, Magnotta also has a

brewery and a distillery.

A few samples later we were on our way

with a Special Reserve Gewürztraminer,

white Zinfandel and another Sauvignon

Blanc stashed in the trunk. After all we still

had a weekend to enjoy, and two hardworking

husbands at home who deserved a

special treat!

KYM WOLFE is a London-based freelance writer who

always enjoys a good road trip and a good glass of wine.


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