Eatdrink #43 September/October 2013

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
FREE
№ 43 • September/October
eatdrink
2013
www.eatdrink.ca
Flavour&
Philosophy at
The Root Cellar
Organic Cafe
A Winning Combination in London
New!
Donald D’Haene
DISHES
on
Local Theatre
and Featuring
The Only On King
“Meet Your Chicken!” in London
Smackwater Jack’s
Taphouse
Local Fare with a View in Grand Bend
Jerusalem: A Cookbook
Review & Recipe Video by Janice Zolf
The EPIC Wine Trail
Driving the Essex Pelee Island Wine Route
Fire Roasted Coffee Co.
& Habitual Chocolate
Brewing Anticipation in London
ALSO: Spring Rolls & Noodles Rule–The Vietnam Restaurant, Thuận Kiều, Quynh Nhi & Tamarine

Ontario’s Event of the Year
Savour Stratford Perth
County Culinary Festival
September 20-22, 2013
More than 150 chefs, culinary personalities, farmers, Ontario
wineries, craft brewers and food purveyors come together in
Stratford to create one of the largest culinary events in Ontario
celebrating Globally inspired, Locally grown cuisine on the Toronto
Star Culinary Stage.
Sip, sample and savour at over 40 engaging chef presentations,
talks and tastings. Roam the market accompanied by FREE music
concerts, street performers and culinary fun for the kids.
Savour Stratford Opening Night presented by Fanshawe College
GE Café Chefs Series with Vikram Vij ~ Exclusive 3-hour class
and lunch
Taste of Ontario Artisan Alley ~ Saturday exclusive cask and craft
beer, VQA wines, Dillon's Small Batch Distillers and artisan cheese
tastings by the Dairy Farmers of Ontario
Toronto Star Culinary Stage ~ International culinary
demonstrations
Women in Food Breakfast presented by Chatelaine ~ A provocative
panel discussion Sunday morning at The Church Restaurant
Sunday Tasting presented by Scotiabank ~ Seasonal morsels
created by 30 local chefs paired with producers, craft beers and
VQA wines at our afternoon garden party
FREE Entertainment presented by the City of Stratford ~ Live acts
all weekend
Come and share in our celebration of food!
presented by
savourstratford.com
@StratfordON
@SavourStratford
StratfordON
SavourStratford

Join us for these Upcoming Events…
• Terry Fox Run — September 15
• Country Christmas Craft Show — November 2
• Huron Tract Spinners and Weavers Exhibition — Nov. 2–3
• A Remembrance: The Great Lakes Storm of 1913 — Nov. 8–10
• IODE Christmas House Tour — November 9–10
• Festival of Lights Celebrations — Nov. 22–mid January, 2014
• Santa Claus Parade — November 23
For information please contact:
Tourism Goderich
1 800 280 7637
or visit our website at:
goderich.ca

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Christie Massé, Natalie Novak, Susan Orfald,
Judy J. Thompson, Janice Zolf
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contents ISSUE № 43
September/october 2013
food writer at large
8 The Foodie’s Place in the Culinary Pecking Order
By BRYAN LAVERY
RESTAURANTS
12 “Meet Your Chicken!" at The Only On King in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
16 Spring Rolls & Noodles Rule: The Vietnam Restaurant,
Thuận Kiều, Quynh Nhi and Tamarine in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
26 To Serve and Provide: Smackwater Jack’s in Grand Bend
By TANYA CHOPP
38 The Root Cellar Organic Cafe: Flavour and Philosophy
By NATALIE NOVAK
Road trips
20 The Joy of Slowing Down, in Perth County’s Millbank
26
24
By NICOLE LAIDLER
Kitchen Design
Small Details for Grand Results
By SUSAN ORFALD 24
CULINARY RETAIL
30 Fire Roasted Coffee Co. & Habitual Chocolate Downtown
By CHRISTIE MASSÉ
54
12
16
46
50
58
TRAVEL
34 Bib On, Butter Up and Uncork! ... in Nova Scotia
By jANE ANTONIAK
NEW & NOTABLE
40 The BUZZ
WINE
46 The EPIC Wine Trail along Lake Erie’s North Shore
By jANE ANTONIAK
Beer matters
50 Forked River Brewing Company and Late Summer Notes
By THE MALT MONK
th e atr e « NEW COLUMN!
54 Donald DISHES on Local Theatre
By DONALD D’HAENE
BOOKS
56 Talking with My Mouth Full by Gail Simmons
Review by DARIN COOK
COOKBOOKS
58 Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi
Review and Recipe Selections by Janice zolF
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 Five Shades of Grey
By JUDY J. THOMPSON
THE BUZZ
56

navigate
№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 7
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call or click for your FREE travel guide and map
also available at visitor centres throughout Southwestern Ontario
1.800.265.0316
www.tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

8 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
food writer at large
The Foodie’s Place in the
Culinary Pecking Order
By Bryan Lavery
Pecking order is the colloquial term
for a hierarchal system of social
organization. For the record, the
original usage referred to the
expression of dominance in chickens. With
the keen interest in all things culinary, it
should not surprise anyone to learn that
there is a gastronomic pecking order. At
the bottom of the gastronomic hierarchy is
goinfre (greedy guts), then goulu (glutton),
gourmand, (one who enjoys eating), friand
(epicure; one who with discriminating
taste takes pleasure in fine food and drink),
gourmet (a connoisseur of food and drink),
and finally the gastronome (one with a
serious interest in gastronomy).
Let’s not overlook “foodie,”
a contemporary term that is
frequently and incorrectly used
as a synonym for gourmet or
epicure. Most people are blind
to the fact that there is a distinct
difference in their meanings.
The foodie is an amateur or
hobbyist and a gourmet has the
foodie?
educated palate and refined
taste of a professional.
Foodie, like the expression eatery, is a
relatively new term in our modern culinary
lexicon. Both of those terms have given me
a lot of flak. The word eatery I am only now
shamefully surrendering to after initially
finding the term not only loathsome
but unappetizing. My complaint is that
“eatery” is being used inaccurately; it is
an interloper on the culinary landscape,
evoking images of cheap, usually inferior
restaurants with undiscriminating all-youcan-eat
offerings and other unspeakable
horrors. Recently, I have begun to hear
the term eatery to describe fine dining
establishments. I am seeing the expression
bandied about in venerated pages of
prestigious publications.
With the simultaneous escalation of the
food media, food apps and camera phones,
I try to keep my mind open to change.
Expressions that seemed to have no root in
our culinary lexicon are suddenly ubiquitous.
Some people self-identify as foodies to
avoid being characterized as the type of
food snob they associate with old-school
gourmets. When people say to me, “You’re
such a foodie” it makes my skin crawl. I
don’t want to be categorized or lumped in
with foodies despite their clichéd glory.
The term sounds too much like groupie,
and groupie, to my way of thinking, has
the implication of being obsessively
indiscriminate. For some
goinfre
goulu
gourmand
friand
gourmet
gastronome
reason the word “foodie” has
always seemed too gung ho,
too disingenuous and more
about status than anything
else. Several people have told
me that I am mistaken, that I
am a food snob.
Writing in the Guardian,
Paul Levy, who claims
paternity of the term foodie
with colleague Ann Barr,
admits that American restaurant critic,
food writer and novelist Gael Greene may
have coined the term foodie at about the
same time in 1982. “What started as a term
of mockery shifted ground, as writers
found that “foodie” had a certain utility,
describing people who, because of age, sex,
income and social class, simply did not
fit into the category ‘gourmet,’ which we
insisted had become ‘a rude word’.”
We can see how far we have come by a
legendary satirical sketch on the IFC series
Portlandia (you can watch it on YouTube)
caricaturing foodies and called, “Is the
chicken local?” The episode goes like this:
A waitress approaches a man and woman
seated at a table and asks if they’re ready to

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 9
order. The woman says she’d like to know
more about the chicken. “The chicken is a
heritage breed, woodland-raised chicken
that’s been fed a diet of sheep’s milk, soy
and hazelnuts,” the waitress states. “This
is local?” the man asks,
leaning attentively
on his hand. “Yes,”
the waitress replies.
“Oregon organic, or
Portland organic?” the
woman asks. “It’s just
all-across-the-board
organic,” the waitress
answers. The waitress
leaves for a moment, and then returns
with a file. “His name was Colin,” she
says. “Here are his papers.” The questions
get more intense and exhaustive, to the
point that the waitress says, “I can’t speak
to that level of intimate knowledge.” The
diners then excuse themselves, promising
to return but first they need to see where
he was raised and lived, before they eat
“Colin.” Although this satirical sketch
mocks foodies, as consumers we should be
aware of where our food is being sourced.
In my experience, those characterized by
the French term goinfre (greedy guts) suffer
a ravenous disposition. They are hard
to stomach due to their selfish, insatiable
appetites. Gluttony is often an emotional
escape, a sign that
something is eating
you. Gluttons indulge
their voracious appetites
indiscriminately
and over-consume to
the point of waste.
Gourmand is an
all-encompassing
term for acolytes who
take great pleasure in good food but who
are routinely unacquainted with etiquette.
They lack the skills of proper refinement
while being over-fond of eating.
At the next level, we find the epicure.
This term has had a renaissance but is still
sometimes used to lampoon those devoted
to the pleasures of the table. The Oxford
Companion of Food says the term “derived
from the Greek philosopher Epicurus, who
declared happiness to be the highest good,
which came to mean, in a food and wine
EXPERIENCE
DOWNTOWN LONDON
519.663.2002 | www.downtownlondon.ca
@Downtown_London DowntownLondon

SUNDAY BRUNCH
11am−2pm
PATIO
Now Open!
№ 43 | September/October 2013
contest, a person of refined tastes.”
Gourmet denotes even more
respectability and gravity in culinary
matters. This French term originally meant
“cultivated wine-taster.” Gourmets tend
to be discriminating in their eating habits
and sophisticated, with a cultivated and
professional interest in culinary matters.
The gastronome has reached the
highest level, taking great strides to
comprehend the most subtle nuances of
taste. It is a pleasing word, gastronome:
unfortunately it has become archaic. The
gastronome’s discerning palate and quest
for illumination have been confused
with pretension and snobbery. The fact
is that gastronomy is the study of the art
and science of food and the relationship
between food and culture.
I have noticed that gastronomes and
foodies have at least one thing in common:
they both seem to have a strong desire to
impart their observations to others.
Sun–Tues 11am–midnight, Wed/Thurs 11am–1am, Fri/Sat 11am–2am
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large and
Contributing Editor and a gourmet/gastronome.

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 11
AUTHENTIC
CULINARY EXPERIENCES
FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY CULTURE
IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR
WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY

12 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
restaurants
Meet Your Chicken!
At The Only On King in London
By bryan lavery
In its sixth year The Only
On King, with its fully
realized farm-to-table
philosophy, devoted
acknowledgement of the local
terroir, and support of local
farmers and producers, remains
an outstanding archetype of
the virtuous up-to-the-minute
Ontario restaurant. The kitchen,
led by Paul Harding, is a selfproclaimed
labour of love.
When Harding is not chained to the stove, he
continues to find new ways to integrate the
locavore ethic into all aspects of The Only.
Former business partner and dynamic
co-chef Jason Schubert left the restaurant
over a year ago to work at Sanagan’s Meat
Locker (an old-fashioned butcher shop,
specializing in meats from small local
farmers who ethically raise their animals)
in the heart of Toronto’s Kensington
Market. Recently, Schubert announced
via twitter that he has started a new trade,
working for “a kick-ass old school masonry
restoration company.”
Schubert may have left many fans in his
wake but under Harding’s proprietorship
the restaurant continues to perform at the
top of its game. That is in part due to The
Only’s trusty and knowledgeable long-time
manager Scott Sloan.
The Only’s Chef Paul Harding
Dealing successfully with the difficulties
and disciplines of local food procurement,
and executing an ever-changing daily menu
with a deep appreciation of the seasonal
palate has been evidence of the kitchen’s
dedication. The cooking repertoire emphasizes
the rich traditions of classic French and
Italian cuisines and the aesthetics of modern
British cuisine. Located in a historic building
and former dairy on King Street in the
London downtown dining district, the restaurant
has a welcoming character with just
that right amount of off-the-cuff insouciance
that often comes with success. The conversational
hum can be loud when the restaurant
is hopping — which is most nights.
The Only was voted number six of
Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2008 by
enRoute magazine. It has lived up to its early

№ 43 | September/October 2013
accolades and the kitchen has never rested
on its laurels. The Only is collaborative by
nature and there have been many exciting
events where The Only has partnered with
other culinary notables like Victor Barry of
Splendido, Vineland’s Tawse Winery, and
Nick and Nat’s Uptown 21, a gourmet hot
spot in Waterloo. A recent collaboration
with Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth
of Edulus restaurant in Toronto (which was
voted number one of Canada’s Best New
Restaurants in 2012 by enRoute magazine)
was a much talked about sold-out success
this summer at The Only.
Dinner at The Only On King begins with
a basket of warm, white-linen-wrapped
house-made bread accompanied by long,
crisp, melt-in-your-mouth breadsticks and a
pot of salty, creamy butter. In keeping with
their philosophy of local food procurement,
flour, grains and legumes are sourced
from the historic Arva Flour Mills. The list
of local producers that The Only supports
is extensive. Farben Farms is Harding’s
choice for Berkshire pork raised in a natural
environment with no additives, hormones
or drugs. Another producer, Lo Maximo
The chalkboard menu always reflects a locavore ethic
Meats, is an outgrowth of Spence Farms,
a fifth-generation family farm located in
Chatham-Kent. Paul and Sara Spence’s Lo
Maximo Meats offers traditionally raised
beef, pork, chicken, goat, lamb and eggs
with no hormones or steroids, but with a
Latin American sensibility. The meat is aged
Come and join us at the C-K Table!
September 21 & September 22
producers direct from the farm to your plate.
September 21 — C-K Table Dinner
An exclusive night of savoury dishes amongst
picturesque blueberry frilds. Proceeds going
to Growing Chefs Ontario for children’s food
education.
September 22 — Farm Tours & Vendor Market
See the work and passion of local farmers and
producers.
More information at www.cktable.ca

14 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
The Only’s Manager Scott Sloan and Chef/Owner Paul Harding
and flash frozen by a local abattoir and sold
at regional Farmers’ Markets.
Recently, I ordered The Only On King’s
classic chicken boudin (white sausage),
which has become a delicious signature
dish. On this occasion it was served with a
fried egg, Swiss chard and garlic sauce. Our
charismatic waiter, Margeaux Levesque,
gave me a binder with a dossier (prepared
by farmer Paul Spence) on candidates for my
dinner that is entitled “From
Our Family Farm To Your
Fork — Meet Your Chicken!”
There was a dizzying array of
potential contenders and all
had lived a happy life on the
Spence family farm where
they “had the opportunity to
roam in an open area with
fresh air, sunshine, bugs,
grass and weeds to feed on.”
The information provided
included: date of birth,
markings/distinguishing
characteristics, likes, dislikes
and other personal
information that included questionable
hobbies and diet.
Later, I quizzed Spence about his inspiration
for the “Meet Your Chicken!” dossiers
and he told me, “It was actually a suggestion
from a fellow farmer ... It’s a great way to both
educate and amuse consumers.”
In addition to Harding’s often ironic sense
of humour, he is proficient at butchering
and making many house-made specialties:
bacon, sausage, terrines, galantines, pates
and confits. The Only’s kitchen has a
revolving repertoire of dishes and several can
be purchased on Saturdays
at its satellite operation at the
Western Fair Farmers’ and
Artisans’ Market. On offer are
favourites like the signature
vegetable salad, pork rillettes
or even foie gras parfait. Of
course, the main reason to go
to The Only at the Market is for
Brian Bellamy’s outstanding
bacon butty with cheese.
The Only’s kitchen has
an aptitude for cooking
lesser-known cuts of meat
with great versatility. I have
many memories of organic
flat-iron steak, braised shin
and grilled organic beef heart, all cooked to
perfection. Simple sauces at this restaurant
accentuate flavour and elevate a good piece
of meat or fish to a superior one. A recent
appetizer that the kitchen turned into
an entrée is golden-brown, Fisher Folksourced
tuna meatballs, braised in tomato
with olives, capers and pine nuts, and
accompanied by knock-out gnocchi.
This kitchen crafts silky crème brûlées
and a yummy Pavlova-like
dessert, aptly named Eton
mess, with berries sourced
from Heeman’s Berry Farms.
A richly-flavoured Habitual
chocolate semifreddo with
boozy cherries, raspberries,
mint oil and Maldon salt was
perfect melt-in-your-mouth
Food Day Canada fare.
The restaurant allows
guests to bring their own
wine, features several housemade
seasonal cocktails,
and has a varied wine list
of interesting choices and a
selection of bottled and draft beer produced
exclusively by Muskoka Brewery.
The Only On King
172 King Street, London
519-936-2064
www.theonlyonking.ca
tuesday to saturday 5:30 pm to close
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large and
Contributing Editor.

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 15

16 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
restaurants
Spring Rolls & Noodles Rule
The Vietnam Restaurant, Thuận Kiều,
Quynh Nhi and Tamarine, in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
The genius of Vietnamese cooking
lies in the adaptation of foreign
influences to develop a distinctly
unique and subtle cuisine with
contrasting flavours and textures. Sour
flavours are balanced by salty ones, and
the Vietnamese serve
their rice in bowls with
chopsticks. Meat is an
accompaniment rather
than a central offering.
The Vietnamese custom of wrapping
fresh rolls and spring rolls in
lettuce leaves and fresh herbs are a
remnant of the original cultures that
existed before centuries of Chinese
influence. The Chinese contributed
many culinary techniques including
their art of stir-frying using the wok;
the French left their traditions and
penchant for aromatic filtered coffee
with condensed milk and crème
caramel; scented ingredients like
lemongrass were embraced from the
sweet notes are tempered by heat from
chilies and ground pepper. There is a dependence
on rice; noodles figure prominently
and a wealth of fresh herbs, fruit
and vegetables. As in China and East Asia,
Thuận Kiều has a stylish urban sensibility (above and
right) and the ambitious menu offers an encyclopedic
range of dishes, such as the array below.
Photos by Jorge Polio Photography.

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 17
Thai culinary repertoire; and the spicing
techniques and aromatic infusions of curryinspired
recipes are suggestive of India. That
is the short-list.
Pho, a popular street food in Vietnam,
is a deeply-flavoured broth with long
rice noodles, fresh herbs and thin slices
of meat most often accompanied with a
side of bean sprouts, peppers and lime
The Vietnam Restaurant
My introduction to pho and subsequent
comparisons are based on the delicious
concoctions that have a fragrant
undertone, accompanied by thin slices of
rare beef, which they have been serving
at The Vietnam since my first visit twenty
years ago. The Vietnam is located across
from Kellogg’s, and Long Duc Ngo has been
the welcoming hands-on proprietor of this
long established Vietnamese restaurant
since 1994. The kitchen offers a selection
of accessibly-priced noodle, rice and soup
dishes. The substantive menu includes
superb spring rolls, pho, sizzling hot pots,
and many seafood and chicken dishes.
Thuận Kiều
Established in 1996, Thuận Kiều is familyowned
and operated and has developed
an ardent and devoted fan base over the
years for Chen’s (or Chu’s — he goes by
both) hands-on approach, his ability to
remember his regulars by name and his
traditional Vietnamese cuisine.
For years the restaurant was located in
cramped premises at Huron and Sandford
Streets. The new incarnation has a slick
urban sensibility with a variety of seating
options. The ambitious menu offers a range
of traditional/non-traditional Vietnamese
dishes that reads like an encyclopedia.
Some dishes reach out to other parts
of South Asia. Due to its updated highconcept
business model, it has lost some
wedges. Pho has become the mainstay of
many Vietnamese restaurants. In London,
students have given Ben Thanh and Pho
Haven cult-status due to pho’s hearty,
meal-in-a-bowl, comfort food popularity
and its relative affordability. Here are four
Vietnamese restaurants in London that
dyed-in-the-wool foodies brag about.
Favourites include Pho Dac Biet, the
signature combination beef, rice noodle
broth with rare and brisket beef, beef balls
and tripe with fresh herbs. The cold rice
paper roll known as goi cuon is a perennial
favourite. It is comprised of noodles,
shrimp, pork, lettuce, mint and Thai basil,
making this savoury easy to dip in a thick
sauce of peanuts and soya.
1074 Dundas St, London
519-457-0762 • www.vietnamrestaurant.com
tuesday–thursday 11am–9pm;
friday 11 am–9 pm; saturday 12 pm–10 pm;
sunday 12 pm–9 pm; closed mondays
of its intimacy but that is not necessarily a
bad thing. The service is very attentive but
when it gets crowded, and it does, things at
TK’s can go a bit haywire.
The appetizer to order is the Bo La Lop;
the parcels of grilled lemongrass-infused
beef wrapped in grape leaf are exceptional.
At Thuận Kiều, they are zealously creating
quality food using traditional cooking
methods and techniques to impart the
essence of Vietnamese cuisine.
1275 Highbury Ave N., London
519- 455-7704 • www.thuankieu.ca
monday–saturday 11 am–9:30 pm;
sunday 11 am–8:30 pm

18 www.eatdrink.ca
Quynh Nhi
For well over a decade the family-run
Quynh Nhi (named after siblings Quynh
and Nhi) has garnered a loyal patronage
and prospered because of its responsive
service, consistency and traditional
Vietnamese cuisine. The updated fortyseat
restaurant is situated off the beaten
path, next door to an auto repair garage at
the corner of Wharncliffe and Riverside.
Quynh Nhi built its formidable reputation
№ 43 | September/October 2013
on its spring rolls. The signature Crispy
Spring Roll is offered with chicken, pork,
or in a vegetarian version served with fresh
mint, lettuce and a chili-lime fish sauce.
The restaurant is also known for its five
different spicy Pad Thais on offer.
55 Wharncliffe Road N., London
519-850-8878 • www.quynhnhi.ca
monday–saturday 11 am–9 pm
Tamarine by Quynh Nhi
Tamarine by Quynh Nhi is the sibling
restaurant and the evolution of the
venerated Quynh Nhi. This is the new
wave of Vietnamese cuisine that has
undergone a coherent development, it
has a technical almost architectural
articulation, and the chefs are concerned
with creativity and innovation.
Menu offerings are intended to be
mixed and paired in ways that harmonize
and contrast flavours. Both the shredded
mango and shrimp salad with chili lime
fish sauce, mint, crushed peanut and
pickled carrots, and the green papaya
salad with fiery beef jerky, basil and sweet
tamarind sauce are otherworldly.
Tamarine is known for its crispy Torpedo
Rolls made with shrimp, and crispy
Imperial Rolls with shrimp, pork, wood ear
(a type of fungi) and glass noodles, which
are also served with fresh mint, lettuce
and a chili-lime fish sauce. The kitchen
combines fresh ingredients
with traditional seasonings to
construct offerings designed to
encourage communal dining.
Long Phan is your charismatic
host and downtown London
champion.
118 Dundas St, London
519-601-8276
www.tamarine.ca.
monday–friday 11 am–2:30 pm
& 5 pm–9pm;
saturday 4 pm–10 pm
BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer
at Large.
Tamarine represents the new wave of innovative Vietnamese cuisine,
seen in the array below, and in the sleek, sophisticated interior.
Photos by Steve Grimes.

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 19

20 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
road trips
The Joy of Slowing Down
Traditional Foods — and Attitudes —in Millbank, Perth County
By NICOLE LAIDLER
Millbank is one of those rural
communities most people
drive by on the way to
someplace else. But this quiet
village of around 600 residents makes a
worthwhile destination for day trippers in
search of authentic Mennonite cooking and
some of the region’s finest cheese.
Located in the heart of Perth County just
20 minutes north of Stratford, Millbank is
home to Anna Mae’s Bakery and Restaurant
— a busy roadside eatery, bakery, and gift
shop — and the Millbank Cheese Factory
— established in 1908 and now locally
owned by 90 families. Once discovered,
both will have you coming back for more.
Meeting customers from far and wide is
one of the things manager Janice Kropf loves
best about working at Anna Mae’s. “We get a
lot of visitors from London, Woodstock and
Toronto, as well as the States,” says Kropf.
“It’s fascinating to find out where people are
coming from.” The restaurant and bakery
Horse-drawn buggies are a
common site on the village streets
Behind the counter at Anna Mae’s Bakery & Restaurant
are also popular with the local Mennonite
community, whose horse-drawn buggies
are a common site on the village streets.
Anna Mae Wagler was a local Mennonite
woman who began selling homemade pies
at the end of her laneway. After turning her
kitchen into a small bakery to keep up with
demand, she built the current stand-alone
location in 1991. “Originally it was just
supposed to be a bakery and a small coffee
shop,” says Kropf. “Then someone asked
her to cook a meal.”
In 2001, Wagler sold the business to her
neighbours, the late Mel Herrfort and his
wife Marlene. Anna Mae Wagler still lives
in Millbank, and Marlene continues to
own the business with daughter Amanda
helping out behind the scenes. But apart
from a few new menu items, Kropf says
not much has changed at Anna Mae’s for
more than 20 years. That seems to suit the
customers just fine.
On a busy Saturday night, the 175-seat
restaurant can serve up to 1,000 people. Many
make a special trip for Anna Mae’s signature
broasted chicken — marinated pieces of
chicken deep-fried to perfection in a pressure

№ 43 | September/October 2013
cooker. “They come out nice and crispy, but
not greasy,” says Kropf. “But it’s not a typical
Mennonite dish. It’s just something Anna
Mae brought in that we became known for.”
“Mennonite cooking is basic country
cooking. Meat, potato, and vegetable,”
Kropf explains. “It’s the way people used
to cook years ago.” The simplicity is
reflected in the restaurant’s short dinner
menu, which offers a five-week rotating
meat schedule. Features include turkey
with dressing, farmer’s sausage, roast
beef, meatloaf, pork chops, pig tails, and
schnitzel, in addition to broasted chicken
and Monday’s all-you-can-eat fish and
chips. All are available in three portion
sizes — small, regular, and platter.
But no meal at Anna Mae’s would be
complete without a slice of homemade
pie. With more than twenty varieties to
choose from, it is difficult to eat just one.
Apple pie, pecan, and cherry are the top
sellers, says Kropf, although coconut cream
is also popular. The bakery also offers a
tempting selection of breads, muffins,
cookies, cakes, squares and sweet buns, as
well as apple fritters, donuts, and creamfilled
Little Janes. And the tasty treats
aren’t just popular with visiting city-folk.
“Mennonites are known for their baking,
but many of our Mennonite customers
actually buy our things too,” says Kropf.
After dining and stocking up on baked
goods at Anna Mae’s, it’s worth taking a
stroll through the village to the Millbank
Cheese Factory. Founded as a cooperative
by local farmers in 1908, Millbank Cheese
and Butter was producing 180,000 kg of
cheese per year by 1933. By the mid-1980s, it
sold $12 million worth of cheese and butter
annually and was purchased by Schneiders,
Millbank Cheese Factory
outlet store
A selection of some of Anna Mae’s famous pies
followed by Ault Foods and Parmalat. When
Parmalat shut down production in 1999 the
community rallied to buy back the factory.
“In September 2003 it became owned by
the local community again, and at this time
is owned by 90 families from the Millbank
area,” says Ed Bennett, board president of
Millbank Cheese and Cold Storage Inc. Of
those families, 80 are “horse and buggy
people,” he says.
Millbank Cheese is particularly well
known for its cheddar, which is made
from a traditional recipe and naturally
aged. “That means there are no enzymes
added to the cheese to age it,” Bennett
explains. “That is something that has been
consistent since 1908.”Mozzarella, havarti,
marble, Gouda, cheese curds, a selection
of flavoured cheeses, as well as goat and
sheep cheese, are all Millbank staples.
In 2004, the company launched an
organic line. It currently produces an
organic Swiss and organic mild, medium,
and aged cheddar — up to 8 years old —
all made with unpasteurized milk. “It’s a
more natural cheese,” says Bennett. “The
difference is in the rules. You can’t release
raw milk cheese to the market until it is
aged at least three months.” In
addition to selling Millbank
cheeses, the factory store carries
Mapleton’s organic ice cream
and frozen yogurt, drug-free,
free-ranged poultry products
from The Poultry Place, and
locally-raised beef and pork.
And while Millbank Cheese
can be found in specialty food
shops throughout Ontario,
Bennett says many cheese-lovers
make the trip to Millbank to
Continued on page 22 ...

22 www.eatdrink.ca
Continued from page 21 ....
stock up on their favourites. “Our
history and reputation bring
people to our door,” he says. After
more than 100 years in business,
Millbank’s naturally aged nineyear-old
Cheddar remains the top
draw. “Aging cheese is an art,”
says Bennett. “And we pay careful
attention to that.”
Anna Mae’s Bakery & Restaurant
4060 Line 72, Millbank ON
519-595-4407
www.annamaes.ca
Millbank Cheese Factory
6974 Church Street, Millbank, ON
519-595-8787
www.millbankcheese.com
NICOLE LAIDLER is a freelance writer and
copywriter and the owner of Spilled Ink Writing &
Wordsmithing. Visit her at www.spilledink.ca
Stratford is more
than great theatre.
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@StratfordON
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24 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
kitchen design
Small Details for Grand Results
By SUSAN ORFALD
You have committed to renovating
your kitchen, you have a design
in place, appliances selected, and
have considered the style and
look you wish to achieve. But there are still
numerous details that need to be coordinated
and thoughtfully implemented to ensure a
smooth, successful project.
It is an asset to have a designer and a
contractor who work well together and
communicate well with each other, as well as
with their clients, for a seamless project with
minimal hiccups and interruptions.
It is best to have a clear floor plan to work
by, noting any required changes in framing,
locations of walls, windows and openings.
Details such as the size of trim, crown
mouldings, wainscoting and baseboard
dimensions are important to achieve the
desired finished product. If you are taking the
cabinetry to the ceiling, it is crucial to ensure
that the ceiling is level.
As a designer, I will typically provide a
detailed electrical plan for the contractor or
customer, as I have reviewed the appliances
they wish to incorporate, as well as discussed
lighting and switch locations. Lighting is
key both from a practical point of providing
adequate task lighting, as well as setting the
ambience and mood of the space. If a proper
electrical plan with detailed dimensions is
implemented and followed, costs (as well as
timing) will be contained. These are the next
details to consider, as mechanicals (electrical,
plumbing and venting) are
the first tradesmen in after
the framing alterations are
completed. Heating beneath
a tile or engineered wood
floor would also need to be
planned for this at this stage.
Other flooring details to
consider are the transitions
between different materials
from one space to another
to keep heights consistent.
What colour grout will you
choose if you’ve selected tile
as a material? Would you like
a border or accent within
the floor? If you are choosing
hardwood in a kitchen, it is
best to select a hardwood
floor with no bevel, for ease
of cleaning.
Thought also needs
to be given to the
ducting for the range
or cooktop, how
large the duct will
be, how far the run
will be, how many
elbows and where
(or whether) it will
exhaust to the exterior.
When you have a
4
completed design, consider
what accessories you want
1
2
3
5
London’s
Kitchen
Renovation
Specialists
Kitchens
Bathrooms
Large Additions
Victorian Restorations
519.860.9640
www.old-castle.ca

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 25
to build inside the cabinetry. I advocate the
use of many drawers in a kitchen design. They
maximize storage space and make those
spaces more accessible. The most popular
items to consider are cutlery drawers, spice
drawers or pull out units for spices, slide out
shelves, tray dividers, garbage and or recycling
centers, and whether you would like any
glass cabinets or open shelves for displaying
items. Do you want an area to hide your small
countertop appliances when they are not in
use? Do you like to have a television in the
kitchen when you are working? These details
need to be considered when drawing your
electrical plan.
Depending on the layout of your kitchen,
you may need to know what the hardware
choices of the cabinetry are, to accommodate
clearances in corners. Cabinet hardware
needs to be functional — make sure it is
comfortable and easy to open, as well as
aesthetically pleasing. Consider hinges that
open more than 90 degrees. Some hinges are
available with a soft close feature — you just
give the door a push and it softly closes.
Drawer tracks are another consideration.
A full extension track will give better access
to the back of drawers. Some drawer tracks
are mounted underneath the drawer to allow
a bit more width to each drawer. These also
have the option of a soft close feature. (No
drawer slamming allowed ...)
You will need to decide on paint colours
and sheens, as typically all but the last coat
should be done prior to cabinet installation.
Cabinet installation is a very important
step in the project, as the quality of the
installation is very evident in the finished
product. The cabinets should be scribed to the
existing walls. The installers can be creative
to accommodate issues that arise on site, as
there are literally hundreds of parts and pieces
that make up a kitchen. (It is something like a
jigsaw puzzle when it arrives at your house!)
If you have decided on a solid surface
countertop (granite,
marble, quartz or
soapstone for example),
once the cabinets are
installed the countertop
will need to be templated
and then taken away to
6
fabricate. Usually this
adds 2–3 weeks to the
length of your project.
The last detail to be
completed in a kitchen
renovation is the
backsplash. Will you
choose tile, glass, stone, 7
granite? Often it is easiest
to leave this decision until
everything else is in place
so you can visualize the
finished effect.
Once your appliances
are installed (and manuals
read) it is time to get
cookin’! Bon appétit!
8
SUSAN ORFALD is an Interior
Designer who has been designing
kitchens (and many other spaces)
for 28 years. She works at Hutton
Bielmann Design Inc. in London.
1. Pull-out pantry unit
9
2. Vertical tray divider
3. Integrated dishwasher panel
4. Appliance lift
5. Appliance lift at counter height
6. Stainless steel cutlery drawer insert
7. Double layer sliding cutlery drawer insert
8. Swing-out waste container
9. Double slide-out waste containers
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26 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
restaurants
To Serve and Provide
Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse, in Grand Bend
By TANYA CHOPP
The saloon-style doors to the kitchen
at Smackwater Jack’s barely have
time to close before they are swung
open once more as a server emerges
with another order. With a quickened step
she glides across the stamped concrete floors
and through the wood-framed glass doors to
the outside.
One of the more remarkable aspects of
Smackwater Jack’s is its al fresco space,
where 170 patrons can laugh, dine and
drink beneath the stars, while several wellspaced
propane torches nix the nip from
the air. Even in unseasonably cool weather,
the two-tiered patio space is bustling.
While the interior can seat approximately
80 people, the expansive river-view deck,
canopied by umbrellas and dotted with
fresh flowers, is where most will opt to sit
until the frost rolls in.
Located on the edge of River Road in
Grand Bend, the restaurant overlooks the
water and the view is stunning, day and
night. A forty-foot dock allows for easy
access to the restaurant from the water, and
local musicians often take to the outdoor
stage to add a hint of romance to the air.
As owner Brad Oke passes a group of
smiling diners he asks if they’d like a
blanket to warm their laps. It doesn’t take
long to realize that customer service is
the extra mile walked by the staff of this
community-minded establishment. It is an
attitude that is winning the hearts, minds
Patios offer an ever-changing view of the boat activity
Dusk at Smackwater Jack’s; time to enjoy a sunset view
and appetites of locals and tourists alike.
When Oke goes back inside to grab a few
throw blankets, one of the women leans
over and says, “All I have to say is that it’s
about time that there was a place like this.”
Since opening in July 2012, Smackwater
Jack’s business has grown exponentially.
The growth has been fuelled by a commitment
to quality food and service, as well as
by a few clever marketing moves.
The seasonally-inspired and locallysourced
menu offers guests a wide selection of
creations. While Oke insists that fish and chips
are the most popular, chef Taylor adds that
the southern fried turkey fillet and braised
Ontario lamb are also crowd favourites.
Everything is made from scratch on
site, right down to the sauce, and meat
and produce don’t have to travel far from
the farm to the table. Smackwater Jack’s
sources fresh fish from Purdy’s Fish
Market, beef from Metzger’s, pork from The
Whole Pig, turkey from Hayter’s Farm and
potatoes from Grand Bend Produce Co Ltd.
On tap is a wide assortment of craft,
domestic and imported beers, including
two varieties brewed only for Smackwater
Jack’s: Smack Attack and Just Joe are
custom concoctions made especially for the
restaurant by the Stratford Brewing Co.
The restaurant has two bar spaces. The
first is a standard indoor bar. The second
is an outdoor engineering achievement,

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 27
complete with enormous flat screen TV’s, mood
lighting and James Bond-like secret machinery.
With the flick of a switch, the bar’s roof can close
down over the liquor storage area, sealing it so
tightly it couldn’t be opened with a crowbar.
The clever structural designs that abound at the
restaurant allude to the undercurrent of ingenuity
supplied by Oke and his outside-of-the-box thinking.
When Oke first laid eyes on the building, the
old fish hut hadn’t been used in over a decade and
had suffered through other renovation and revival
attempts. While others may have shied from the
challenge, Oke was inspired. “It was destiny,” he says.
Drawing on his 29 years of experience as a
home designer and builder, Oke determined the
best use of space and began to work. The roof was
raised, floors re-poured and the space reinsulated.
The result is an atmosphere that is energetic, and
sophisticated but still comfortably beachside.
The remodeling was only one of the challenges.
With the overwhelming influx of tourists into
Grand Bend during the summer, the restaurant
faces an odd logistical problem: the area is so
popular, that the establishment is hard to get to.
So Oke came up with a unique solution.
As you approach Smackwater Jack’s, don’t
be alarmed by the ominous presence of the
ambulance. Its days of medical emergencies are
over. Oke purchased the decommissioned vehicle
and turned it into a “patron transfer service,” now
known affectionately as the Smackulance, so that
guests who have traveled by foot, as well as those
too tipsy to drive, may have safe transport without
the hassle of worrying over their own vehicles.
Guests are dropped off at their doorsteps, for free,
anywhere across the Grand Bend area and up to
Port Franks. “All I ask is that you don’t play doctor,”
jokes Oke as he loads a laughing group into the back.
A second Smackulance will soon be put on the
road, thanks to the popularity of the service. It is
another testament to the business’s transformation
from a humble fish hut into an anchor that holds
the community together around a comfort-food
laden table ... with an excellent view.
Smackwater Jack’s Taphouse
71 River Road, Grand Bend
519-238-5556
www.smackwaterjacks.ca
open daily 12 noon–9 pm
open until 10 pm friday & saturday
The popular Smackulance
TANYA CHOPP is London-based marketing communications
specialist and freelance writer whose work is
focused on the promotion of health, wellness and support
of the arts. She cooks with wine, and sometimes she even
adds it to the food of a beautiful relationship.

28 www.eatdrink.ca
Dine
• Shop • Stay • Play
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast
ontarioswestcoast.ca
@onwestcoast
Eat and drink at the water’s edge.
Dinner Wednesday to Sunday
Lunch Wednesday to Saturday
Reservations Recommended
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend
www.finerestaurant.com
Featuring the finest meat & produce from our
outstanding local farms, alongside
quality craft beers & wines.
Scan here to see our new menu!
71 River Road, Grand Bend
519-238-5556
www.smackwaterjacks.ca

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 29
A Fresh Take on Tradition
Celebrate the
Fall Harvest
PATIO
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with local bounty + an extensive wine list!
“Evidence that you don’t have to be in
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Your table awaits you!
30 min North of London • 20 min East of Grand Bend
30 min West of Stratford
527 Main St., Exeter ON 519-235-3030
www.eddingtons.ca
72981 Bluewater Hwy, Zurich ON
Hwy 21, north of Grand Bend,
1 hour from London
519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736
Come for dinner
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Tickets Now Available
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Saturday Nov. 2
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• Sizzling Saturdays (Ribs both sides)
• Sangria & Caesar Sundays
“Everything is made from scratch,
fresh to order, using local ingredients.”
— Owner/Chef Dave Giroux
A healthy alternative to fast food since 2001
A Mexican Hot Spot
85 Main Street, Grand Bend
The Sunset House: 519-238-2622
Jalapenos: 519-238-2084
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№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 31
culinary retail
Brewing Anticipation
Fire Roasted Coffee Company & Habitual Chocolate
at King & Talbot in London
By CHRISTIE MASSÉ
W
hen
Dave Cook
takes a break from
befriending rock
gods like Gene
Simmons with his band-branded,
top quality artisanal coffee and
chocolate bars, he is answering
questions on the long awaited
opening of the new Fire Roasted
Coffee Company Café and
Habitual Chocolate location at
King and Talbot. Cook and Luis
Rivas — owner of True Taco and Operations
Manager of Artisans’ Group — take the
pressure in stride, knowing that doing things
right trumps doing things on schedule.
The expected opening date fell sometime
in April of this year. Now, just prior to
opening in August, Cook says “I’ve been
mentally willing things. We’re so close I
can taste it.” In a blog post concerning the
delay, Cook outlines some of the challenges
they’ve faced in the process including,
“insane landlords (not the current one),
ridiculous lease regulations, cost overruns,
funding shortfalls, construction mistakes,
construction delays and tradesmen that
just never show up and a plan that was
The building has received a beautiful facelift and some
structural changes that blend seamlessly into the streetscape
developing as we went along much like the
creation of a sculpture.”
Along with the predictable unpredictability
attached to renovating a building and
expanding an established business, Cook
spreads himself thin with other ventures.
Owning the Artisans’ Group and overseeing
both the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’
Market and the Masonville Farmers’ Market,
leading the fight for food trucks with Michelle
Navackas (Business Development Manager of
Artisan’s Group), co-writing feature articles
for Roast Magazine, and traveling to coffee
and cacao producing countries like Haiti to
meet one-on-one with his suppliers, are just a
few of the things that keep him running.
Dave Cook founded Fire Roasted Coffee Co. in 2007,
and Habitual Chocolate became a logical addition
with the Fair Trade connections he forged.

32 www.eatdrink.ca
“When we first got the
space it was in rough
repair. We basically
had to bone it out like a
chicken.” As expected with
a 19th-century building,
the beautiful space has
a few “scars” as Cook
describes it. Embracing
the character of the space,
the philosophy behind
the décor is a mash-up of
the basic level structure
with high-end details.
Designer Wayne DeGroot,
owner of D-Cubed, has
lined the contour of the
café side of the space
with a bar constructed of a halved walnut
tree trunk that has been varnished and
polished to chic perfection. The coffee bar is
composed of thick repurposed barn board
and the exposed duct work of the ceiling is
highlighted by retro-contemporary lighting.
The communal tables on the café side hold 32
seats with 10 more outside. Rick Ho of London
Audio has wired the exterior for tunes, a
move the city struggled with, but one Cook
believes is essential to promote “café culture”
in our slightly conservative city.
The café will offer simple fare from
Pastry Chef Michele Lenhardt (previously
of The Black Walnut Café in Wortley Village
and The River Room Café at Museum
London). “We don’t want to veer far from
what we do,” says Cook, concerning menu
options. Fresh juices, baked goods and
pastries, salads, sandwiches, and late
night charcuterie plates will be available to
accompany the local beer and wine list.
On the south side of the space is the
exposed brick and glass lined chocolate
room. The production room is temperature
controlled and houses two 65-pound batch
chocolate grinders for
the company’s bean
to bar operation. Also
here is the “chocolate
faucet,” which tempers
the chocolate to the
correct degree, and
is responsible for the
perfectly smooth sheen
of Habitual’s final product.
The crew wants the
public to experience
the operation in its
entirety, both visually
and aromatically. The
open exposure allows
for this level of involvement.
Rivas claims the
chocolate smells even better than the coffee.
“I grew up around chocolate in El Salvador,
but never knew much about it. Through travelling
I have expanded my understanding
and can now do so much more with it.” Rivas
explains they are looking to offer somewhat
of a chocolate school in the space. “We want
to change the public’s perception of chocolate
through exposure and education.” According
to Rivas, chocolate is full of antioxidants and
provides natural energy. The facility will be
able to produce 130 pounds of chocolate in
24 hours. The entire space will be available to
rent out for special occasions and chocolate/
coffee education to large enough groups.
Through their long hours of operation, 7 a.m.
to 11 p.m., they also want to accommodate
event ticket holders from Budweiser Gardens,
feeling they have a lot to offer pre and post
concerts, games, and events.
With one eye always on the big picture,
expanding this business is just the first step
towards an expansion of community. With
the intention of working with Budweiser
Gardens and Covent Garden Market, as well
as other nearby businesses, there are plans to
encourage more of a night life in the King and
Talbot area. With such benefits afoot, better
latté than never!
The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. &
Habitual Chocolate Café
105 King Street at Talbot, London
www.fireroastedcoffee.com
mon to sat 7 am–11 pm; sunday 9 am–5 pm
CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a graduate of the Stratford Chefs School.

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 33
From fine dining to the freshest produce,
farmers’ markets, wineries and a brewery,
Elgin County will satisfy every taste.
Pick your own fresh fruits & vegetables, take a
cooking class in an old bank, experience
adventure at a bee farm, stroll through
a field of lavender, and so much more.
Pick up your Savour Elgin Culinary Guide today!
Savour the tastes of Elgin County.
For more information,
please call 1-877-GO ELGIN or visit
www.savourelgin.ca

34 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
travel
Bib On, Butter Up and Uncork!
A Culinary Adventure — East Coast Style — in Nova Scotia
By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE
Lobster five ways — now that’s
what we came to Nova Scotia for
and the bluenosers certainly did
deliver! Lobster poutine, lobster
club sandwich, butter poached lobster
dressed with lobster roe mayonnaise, a
lobster roll and — finally — a classic boiled
lobster cooked in seawater
from the Bay of Fundy, were
all on the menu over one
weekend of buttery bliss.
Fresh from the Bay
The king of the crustaceans
was found in tiny Halls
Harbour, a fishing village
on the Fundy coast where
Sharla and Rodger Cameron
operate an unparalleled
lobster experience. The
Lobster Pound proudly
offers “Lobster in the
Rough” from a cook shack
and pound which draws in
and then exports 1.5 million
pounds of lobster annually
to North America and Asia.
Visitors can pick a live
lobster weighing between
one to five pounds from
an open water vat, have it
weighed at the cash register
in the gift shop then carry it
outside to the cookhouse in
a bucket where it is boiled
in Fundy salt water. While
you wait at a patio table you
can enjoy a few cold Keith’s
while watching the local
kids jump off fishing boats
into the harbour. But once
the lobster arrives your
focus will be entirely on the
fresh-from-the-bay flavour.
Lobster Poutine, above, and scallops at
the Haliburton Hotel, below
If you really want to blow your diet head
to The Port gastropub in Port Williams,
where the lobster poutine, served hot and
steaming with white lobster sauce, chunks
of lobster and locally crafted cheese curds
from Foxhill Farm & Cheese House around
the corner is certainly not meant to be
shared! Enjoy it with a
flight of in-house crafted
beers while you watch the
tide come in (or go out).
Of course it’s not all
lobster in Nova Scotia but
we certainly stuck to the
sea, like typical land lubbers
let loose on an ocean
playground for a weekend!
From house-made salt-cod
fishcakes for breakfast at
The Bluenose II, downtown
Halifax’ favourite family
restaurant, to succulent
scallops in crispy rice paper
at Stories restaurant in the
beautiful Haliburton House
boutique hotel in Halifax,
there was choice aplenty on
every menu.
Down Home Fry Shack
Some places keep it
beautifully simple. A must
stop for down-to-earth
diner lovers is John’s Lunch
for a full fry experience.
Located near the
Woodside Ferry Terminal
in Dartmouth, John’s is
a diamond in the rough,
and the fish and chips
were recently voted best in
Canada by Canadian Living
magazine. Testimonials
from fans worldwide are

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 35
printed on the paper place mats, while foreign currency
is lovingly tacked to the wall as proof of its renown. Truth
lies in the lightly battered fried clams, scallops and moist
fish served alongside vinegar style coleslaw. The clams
are truly memorable.
People line up for paper takeaway bags, some diners
sit outside on picnic tables while others crowd inside
at booths to sit in the steam from the openly displayed
fryers. Mixed into it all is Fotis Fatouros, the co-owner
with Strato Baltas. Fotis is the friendliest guy in the
world. He works the adoring crowd while his son
Stephen and the team fry up 40 pounds of fish a day
plus seafood. Wife Patricia runs the cash with a smile. It
is bliss 1950’s style.
Taking it Uptown
Other restaurants like Fleur de Sel in Lunenburg, Stories
in Halifax and The Blomindon Inn in Wolfville take the
setting and service up several notches while remaining
true to fresh and local sources. You can dine in a seacaptain’s
mansion (and stay the night in gorgeous
rooms) at The Blomindon Inn where in-house maplesmoked
candied salmon is deliciously prepared by Chef
Sean Laceby, who was trained at the Culinary Institute
in Charlottetown as well as in New York and Napa
Valley. He brings joy to the table in comfortably elegant
surroundings. Or travel to the picturesque Atlantic side,
to Lunenburg where a special experience awaits at Fleur
de Sel. Chef Martin Ruiz Salvador presents his Frenchstyled
offerings of seafood, including the beautiful and
delicious butter poached lobster (no shells to crack
here) alongside a bento box of oysters on the half shell
with house made sauces. Or enjoy a night at a boutique
hotel in Halifax at Haliburton House where you can
dine in the intimate Stories restaurant to the urban
fusion stylings of Chef Scott Vail. Savour his pan-seared
rice paper wrapped sea scallops on a private oasis patio
in the back garden.
Cheers!
Of course you can’t properly go to Nova Scotia
without having a sociable beverage. While most Nova
Scotians start their day with tea (try the Nova Scotia
wild blueberry tea at The Tea Brewery in Mahone
Bay) the teacups make way for heartier beverages
as the day rolls into night. We certainly expected,
and enjoyed, Keith’s in Halifax, where you can take a
historical re-enactment guided tour of the brewery at
the harbour that thankfully includes a few cold pints!
And then there’s the whisky and rum: both made in
the province and enjoyed in everything from moist
and delicious cake at the Rum Runners Cake Factory
on the wharf in Halifax, to artisan crafted spirits at
unique distilleries such as Ironworks in Lunenburg.
Here, Lynne MacKay and Pierre Guevremont run a
craft distillery in an old blacksmith’s shop. You can
Julia meets a 5-pound lobster at Halls
Harbour, above, before tucking into her
“Lobster in the Rough,” below
later have their booze in an
upscale cocktail at Fleur de
Sel. We took home a bottle of
single batch Bluenose dark
rum. Cake will not be made
from that!
Uncork
What surprised us the
most on this journey is the
emerging wine industry in
the Gaspereau Valley and
Annapolis Valley. It’s like a
tiny Sonoma. Visitors follow
windy two-lane roads to
independently owned gems
such as Blomindon Winery
in Canning, which has some

36 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Butter-Poached Lobster at Fleur de Sel Restaurant
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of the oldest vines in Nova Scotia. With
tidal breezes coming in off Minus Basin,
Bay of Fundy, the winemakers think they
are onto something special and have
developed unique hybrids. Here they grow
the L’Acadie grape and blend it under
the label Tidal Bay, which is judged and
regulated by a set of standards established
by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia.
To obtain the Tidal Bay designation, all
wines must be made from specific grape
varieties, include 100% Nova Scotia grown
grapes, and be approved every year by
an independent blind tasting panel. This
refreshing white wine is great with seafood
or on the patio.
The Grand Pré region outside of
Wolfville is home to a growing wine route
which includes some big players like
Domaine de Grand Pré with its world class
restaurant, Le Caveau. However, as longtime
CBC fans we were really excited to
head to Pete Luckett’s vineyard and hopefully
meet the guy who started Pete’s Frootique
in Wolfville.
Perhaps you
remember him,
as we did, from
his many years
on CBC Midday
with Valerie
Pringle explaining
the nuances
of then-exotic
fruits and vegetables.
He later
took his show to
CTV and the Food
Network. Pete’s
Frootiques are
now very popular
at markets
Pete Luckett with a glass of his
popular Phone Box label wine

№ 43 | September/October 2013
Blomidon Inn, above, is a fomer
sea captain’s mansion in Wolfville.
Below, adventurers try boat jumping
in Halls Harbour.
in Halifax
where students
shell
out $10 for a
smoothie. So
my daughter
Julia, a
Dalhousie
student, was
also quite
curious to
meet the
man behind
the famous
stores. Luckily
for us Pete
was at the
vineyard,
greeting
visitors and
offering tastings
while we
all enjoyed
the beautiful
vistas. His
Phone Box
label is very
popular and
delicious.
Plus, he offers
all visitors a
free call to
anywhere
in the world
from his British
red phone box in the vineyard! “It’s a
labour of love,” he enthuses happily as he
views the estate and sips a crisp blueberry
wine. “It was an old field and an old barn.
It’s come a long way in a short time. To be
part of that excitement, to get people to try
and accept Nova Scotian wines, is really
making me happy,” he says.
Nova Scotians are experts at making
others feel happy too. A warm welcome
awaits — just bring a hearty appetite and a
thirst for fun, scenery and good times.
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JANE ANTONIAK is a culinary travel writer for eatdrink
magazine. She is also Manager, Communications & Media
Relations at King’s University College, Western in London.
BRUCE FYFE is regular contributing photographer for
eatdrink. He is also a Librarian at Western University, London.
We are your London outlet for Metzger Meat Products,
The Whole Pig and Lena’s Lamb, with sauces and spices from
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Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm
226-376-6328 • erin@saucymeats.com

38 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
spotlight
The Root Cellar Organic Cafe
Flavour and Philosophy: a winning combination
By NATALIE NOVAK
The Root Cellar, an organic café,
bakery and juice bar in Old East
Village, celebrated its first birthday
in July. Located in a former wine
retail store, the 21-seat restaurant is small
but charming with brick archways along one
wall, colourful menu boards, and artwork
by a different featured artist each month,
typically with a social justice theme or using
sustainable materials and techniques.
The restaurant is an offshoot of On the
Move Organics, a London company that
connects people to local certified organic food
producers through its home delivery service,
its operations at Western Fair Farmers’ and
Artisans’ Market, and the Dundas Street café.
The whole organization is in the process of
converting to a worker-owned cooperative,
with the four principles — Jeff Pastorius
(who founded On the Move Organics), Ellie
Cook, Aaron Lawrence and Joel Pastorius
— all taking equal responsibility for the full
business. It is Ellie you’re most likely to see in
Left to right: Jeff Pastorius, Ellie Cook & Aaron Lawrence
The Root Cellar, though, as she manages the
café’s front of house operations.
In the fall the eatery will take over
neighbouring space at 621 Dundas Street.
The dining area will expand from 700 to
1,500 square feet, more than doubling
its capacity to 55 seats. In warm weather
diners can also enjoy the sidewalk patio.
Currently the café caters primarily to
brunch and lunch crowds. It is a popular
destination for people who live and work
in the neighbourhood, and on Saturdays
people will often pop in on their way to
or from the Western Fair Farmers’ and
Artisans’ Market. With the expansion, the
café is looking to build a dinner crowd and
will offer healthy versions of traditional
pub fare, from appetizers to shepherd’s pie.
“We believe it will appeal to people who are
looking for local organic options when they
dine out,” says Ellie, who expects to run
extended hours once the new space is open.
The menu will continue to be built on
certified organic foods, locally sourced in
season. Right now there are soup, sandwich
and salad selections that you can always
count on, like the vegan sweet potato curry
soup, roasted beet and goat cheese panini,
loaded grilled cheese flavoured with greens
and caramelized onions, kale slaw or the

№ 43 | September/October 2013
spicy chickpea salad, as well as a selection
of desserts. All baking is done in house, and
customers can order fresh breads and buns
to take home — ancient grain, multigrain,
cheddar spelt, cinnamon raisin, and others.
Specials posted on the chalkboard and on
Facebook change daily, depending on what
is available in season — perhaps a roasted
asparagus or roasted zucchini panini, a
heritage sausage melt, or a dish or dessert
that incorporates unplanned for ingredients.
“We were surprised with a crop of organic
mini-raspberries, and had raspberry mint
scones on the menu for a while,” says Jeff.
Another Root Cellar staple is the organic
fresh juice and smoothie bar where staff
whip up healthy concoctions made from
vegetables, fruit and wheatgrass mixed
with almond, coconut or cashew milk.
“We make our own cashew milk from fair
trade organic cashews imported from El
Salvador,” Ellie explains.
The majority of ingredients are sourced
closer to home, though. “We go to great
lengths to support local small scale farmers,”
say Jeff and Aaron, who secure food for On
the Move Organics and The Root Cellar. Their
shopping list is far reaching and includes
cheeses from Monforte Dairy in Stratford;
flours from Arva Flour Mill; heritage water
buffalo and Berkshire pork sausage from
Eco Farms, an Amish growers cooperative
in Guelph; milk and cream from Organic
Meadow, a cooperative of Ontario family
farms; hot beverages from Fire Roasted
Coffee, Wisdom Tea and Wildflower Tea
companies; herbs from Heritage Line Herbs
in Aylmer; produce from Dolway Organic
Garden in Hyde Park, Sunnivue Farms in
Ailsa Craig, Sleegers Greenhouses Strathroy
and HOPE Amish farmers collective in
Aylmer; free range chicken and eggs from
Don and Sharon Gingerich’s farm in Zurich,
which has its own egg grading facility. “It’s
the only onsite grading station for certified
organic eggs in Southwestern Ontario,” says
Aaron, and that enables them to move fresh
eggs from laying bed to café quickly.
A list of current food suppliers is posted
on a chalk board behind the cash register
and updated weekly, ensuring diners can
see where The Root Cellar food has been
sourced. “It’s very transparent and it helps
educate people about local food supply,”
says Ellie. Jeff and Aaron work closely with
farmers, encouraging them to extend their
growing season and to fill specific gaps, for
example by planting small fruit orchards
since certified organic fruit can be difficult
to source locally.
Jeff, Aaron and Joel, who have been home
brewing for years, are hoping to establish a
London brewing cooperative and to install
a nano-brewery in the Root Cellar by the
end of the year. The brew crew envisions
making elderberry or pumpkin stout, and
supporting the revival of regional malt and
hops production. It seems like a natural
progression for the group who believe in
choosing local, organic ingredients whenever
possible in whatever they eat and drink.
The Root Cellar
623 Dundas Street, London
519-719-7675
www.fb.com/TheRootCellarOrganicCafe
tuesday to saturday, 10 am–7 pm
Natalie Novak is a freelance writer based in London.
A crack in the front window has been “stitched” together
using pieces of stained glass, creating a rainbow mosaic.

40 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
The BUZZ ... new and notable
The latest word on local chefs, restaurants, farmers’ markets,
food shops, and culinary events. Send tips to blavery@
eatdrink.ca and follow us for up-to-the-minute news on
Facebook and Twitter.
London Training Centre combines 25 years of food skills training,
advocacy for careers in food service and a commitment to a local,
sustainable food system. The Local Food Skills program is designed
as an introduction to the industry. The three-week program includes
both classroom and kitchen instruction. Participants receive the full
support of London Training Centre’s employment services team.
Local Food Skills presents Food for Thought on Thursday
September 12, 2013. This year, the 4th annual fundraiser, held at
the farm where they grow food ecologically, is a feast in the field in
support of the Local Food Skills program. www.londontraining.on.ca
Chatham-Kent Table is an opportunity to meet and connect with
farmers and producers in Chatham- Kent. The region has some of the
most productive agricultural land in Canada and the organizers invite
you to enjoy the bounty of this beautiful area. This year’s event will be
held amongst the picturesque blueberry fields at Parks Blueberries
& Country Store. Proceeds go to Growing Chefs! Ontario: Uniting
chefs, growers, educators, and the community in children’s food
education. Twenty-two area producers from Chatham-Kent and seven
area chefs will prepare eight courses sourced from Chatham Kent. Farm
tours on Sunday will run from 10–3 pm. www.cktable.ca
“I am London” celebrates the diversity of London by sharing the
stories of ten successfully settled immigrants from different countries
who have chosen London as their home. T.G. Haile of Addis Ababa
and Yam Gurung of Momo’s at the Market are two of London’s
culinary stars that deserve our attention and support.
Yam Gurung was born and raised in a remote village on the
foothills of the Himalayan Mountains of central Nepal with his
parents and 7 siblings. At the age of 12 he headed to a busy Nepalese
tourist area, to advance his chances of finding work to support his
family. Gurung learned English, interacting with Western tourists
and working in restaurants.” He would eventually apprentice as
a chef in several London restaurants (notably Custom Cuisine
Catering), learning about the various international cuisines.
Yam came to Canada to join his wife, Samantha Schuster, and
newly born daughter in 2001. They settled in Rankin Inlet, Nunavut,
where Samantha worked as a midwife for a year, before moving to
London. Having always worked in the food services industry, for
Yam the idea of starting a catering business came naturally. The
business was incubated at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’
Market and has evolved to become Momos at the Market, where
Yam and his team serve hand-made Nepalese food.
Arriving in London in 1998, with little more than ambition and
dreams of a brighter future, T.G. Haile was eager to start new life
in a new home, after having escaped war in Ethiopia. T.G. began
working at variety of jobs; attending classes to improve her English and
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learning a new trade. T.G. dreamt of opening a restaurant. Her passion
for cooking began at a very early age, when she would roam around her
mother’s restaurant, just outside of Addis Ababa.
Regulars, restaurant insiders, and the vegetarian crowd are known
to flock to this off-the-beaten-track spot, for reasonably priced, fresh,
well-executed Ethiopian cuisine in a homey and hospitable environment.
The menu offers outstanding examples of Ethiopian cuisine.
T.G. is proud to call London her home. “I chose to start my
business in London, but more importantly, I chose to start my
family here. It is a safe and welcoming community, and there is
nowhere else I would rather build a future.”
The Westminster Working Group is a group of residents
living in the Westminster neighbourhood of southeast London
who are dedicated to helping children, youth and families live a
healthier life. The group started in March of 2010 and has since
developed a Neighbourhood Action Plan to target some main
priority areas: Urban Planning, Public Safety, Active Transportation
and Accessibility, Availability of Food and Physical Activity
Opportunities, which all influence a person’s ability to be active and
eat healthy in their neighbourhood.
The Westminster neighbourhood has been identified as a food
desert due to its distance from nutritional food retailers. This means that
there is no grocery store located within the neighbourhood and no local
transportation that will take a resident directly to a grocery store.
The Westminster Working Group led by Shannon Sinclair, wanted
to make a local food hub where the community could meet and shop,
and for that reason the pilot for the Southdale Farmer’ and Artisans’
Market was created. The Child & Youth Network (CYN) led by The
Healthy Eating, Healthy Physical Activity initiative (HEHPA) have
been willing to see the market’s plans come to fruition.
The Child & Youth Network (CYN) is comprised of more
than 130 local agencies and individuals dedicated to doing what is
best for children, youth and families. Their vision: happy, healthy
children and youth today ... caring, creative, responsible adults
tomorrow. Westminster Park neighbourhood was selected as a pilot
neighbourhood by the CYN in 2011.
HEHPA project manager Christopher Green says, “HEHPA
works to promote changes in physical behaviour and eating habits
to promote healthy, happy living for children, youth, and their
families. By coordinating with the Westminster Working Group,
grassroots community projects can be created. These projects can
be executed on a small scale, to have big impacts”.
The Southdale Farmers’ Market operates until the end of
September, every Thursday from 3:30 to 7:30 pm, at the corner of
Southdale and Adelaide Streets. It has been a community initiative by
the landlord who helped make the space possible, Market Manager
Sara Denomy, and by Business Development Manager of the Artisans’
Group Michelle Navackas who provided guidance and staff, as well as
the community who have come out to support the group.
The Southdale Farmers’ Market helps bring fresh produce
and a sense of community to the Westminster neighbourhood
while letting residents knows that their efforts within their own
neighbourhood can be an influence on the lives of many.
Covent Garden Farmers’ Market, London Community
Resource Centre (LCRC), and Growing Chefs! Ontario are
collaborating on a pilot project to increase accessibility to and
understanding of local fresh-from-the-farm food for school age
children, their parents, and the community at large.
The project, which is being piloted at University Heights
Public School in September, involves setting up a farmers’ market
at the school which will provide access to healthy food; education
in the classroom provided by Growing Chefs Ontario, to promote
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42 www.eatdrink.ca
understanding of why healthy food is important; and finally a
“learning garden,” provided by LCRC.
The market runs Wednesdays, September 11 to October 9, 3:30–6:30
pm right behind University Heights Public School, at 27 Ford Crescent,
close to the University, Althouse and Brescia College. The market is open
to the entire community, including Western students and faculty.
Downtown London has relocated to King Street’s restaurant row
after 10 months in a temporary office at Citi Plaza. The agency recruits
new downtown development and promotes and mentors existing
businesses. The newly renovated storefront is at 123 King St., across
from Covent Garden Market.
The Curry Garden Restaurant has recently relocated south of King
Street on Richmond in the premises formerly occupied by Los Comales.
Your love of all things Italian begins at
№ 43 | September/October 2013
At Kantina, Tapas Tuesdays and Wednesdays continue. For those
suffering from food envy or rampant indecision, they have decided to extend
their tapas nights into the fall. Peculiar Brunch: Sleeping in is one of the
most important functions in life. So, on Sundays, give your brain time to relax;
your stomach can wait until 11:00 am for brunch. Kantina’s take on a Sunday
tradition, Balkan infusion, starts September 8. www.kantina.ca
Recently opened innovative independent businesses like Byron
FreeHouse and Waldo’s in Byron continue to add another level
of sophistication to Byron’s culinary scene. Byron FreeHouse owners
Katherine Banasik and Executive Chef Robbin Azzopardi have all
the ingredients of a sizzling culinary destination and couldn’t have
organized a better makeover. The FreeHouse opened in August to praise,
in the smartly re-imagined premises formerly occupied by La Bella
Vita Ristorante on Commissioners Road. The dining room is a dramatic
example of the openness of contemporary restaurant design. Chef
Joshua Sawyer’s upscale menu is innovative and has a strong seafood
tilt with lots of interesting choices.
Just down the block in Byron, Mark Kitching and Mark
Navackas have opened Waldo’s in Byron, a satellite operation of
Waldo’s on King in the Covent Garden Market. Waldo’s is known
for using fresh market ingredients. You will enjoy casual bistro-style
selections with many of the “old” Waldo’s signature favourites.
Things are heating up in Wortley Village. eatdrink recently spoke
to restaurant insider Wendy Yoon about changes at Gusto Food
& Wine Bar. Chef Stephen Burns’s menu includes tapas-style
sharing plates that are generally well-done. The restaurant also offers
seasonal entrées, inspired salads, Italian-style pizzas and house-made
desserts. Dine inside or on the charming balcony, this hot spot in the
heart of the Village has become a mainstay.
Danny Bikos and Chris Korakianitis are expected to open the
Sweet Onion Grill in the premises previously occupied by Ciao
Bistro across from the Black Walnut Café. Another new contender
garnering rave reviews in the Village is Mai’s Thai Food.
Restaurants like Unique Food Attitudes at Dundas and Lyle
and The Root Cellar near Dundas and Adelaide continue to add
charm to the Old East Village. Rick Peori from ABC Cheese opened
his new cheese shop on Dundas Street across from WFFAM this past
June. Miki and Agnes Hambleck of Taste of Hungary opened
their new butcher shop in mid-August next door to Peori, and
just down the street from Theo and Gerda Korthof`s Artisan
Bakery, which set up shop earlier in the year. Miki and Agnes are
well-known for their popular, all-natural, no-filler sausages, bacon,
and other delicious Hungarian-inspired products. All three have
maintained their locations at the WFFAM.
Delicious
Seven Days a Week
Dinner, Lunch or Sunday Brunch

№ 43 | September/October 2013
Chef Andrew Wolwowicz of The Springs on Springbank Drive is
starting a monthly dinner feature at the restaurant called A Chef’s
Salute to the Craftsman. This initiative will feature farmers, local
producers, cheese makers and other food and beverage artisans. The
first dinner will feature Cameron’s Brewery out of Oakville and Kyle
Smith, the brew master himself, will be here to give a talk. The beers
will be used in the preparation of the four courses along with having
the beer to taste while eating that dish. The cost is $65. The Spring’s is
also featuring live entertainment Thursday to Saturday. The smartly
appointed restaurant, housed in a beautifully refurbished church, will
be celebrating its 2nd anniversary in mid-October.
www.thespringsrestaurant.com
Everything Tea, located on the 2nd floor of the Western Fair
Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, has been nominated to enter the
2013 Canadian Gift and Tableware Association Retailer of the
Year Award Competition. www.everythingtea.ca
Laura Campeau of Silversmith Brewing Company has just started
a London chapter of Barley’s Angels. It is more than just a social
drinking club for women, the goal is to respect craft beer, brewing, and
have a thirst for beer knowledge. www.barleysangels.org
Rick Weingarden and Allan Watts’s Anything Grows Seed
Company is now a permanent fixture at the Western Fair Farmers’
Market on Saturdays. Hard-to-find seeds and organic sprouting seeds
will be available all year. With a new larger space they have expanded
into some of their favourite items in other categories: bird feeders,
gloves, potted arrangements, flower bulbs, sprout growers and handweeders
to name a few. To come for the holiday entertaining season:
amaryllis and paperwhites, both bare bulb and potted arrangements.
Local organic garlic has been a specialty for years—buy for eating
or growing. Look for Anything Grows Seed Co. during seed season at
local Seedy Saturdays (www.seeds.ca) and The Stratford Garden
Festival. www.anythinggrows.com
Join Mercer Hall on Monday nights for a culinary adventure: no menu,
no decisions to make, just sit back and relax while the kitchen creates tasty
small plates, served family-style. Simply inform your server of any dietary
concerns and enjoy up to 20 savoury courses followed by half a dozen
desserts. If you make it all the way through and you’re still feeling hungry,
the chefs will create new exciting items for you à la minute. This winter,
Mercer Hall will be chasing the blues away with a set of themed dinner
parties. Tickets are $50 and will include a theme-inspired cocktail, threecourse
family-style dinner and take-home keepsake. Appropriate attire
is encouraged for each event with the best-dressed couple/individual
winning a weekend getaway in the hotel. 519-271-9202
Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival runs September
20–22. This year’s theme is “Globally inspired, Locally grown cuisine.”
For the opening on Friday, September 20, the chefs and students from
Fanshawe College have planned an amazing kick off and their many
talents will be showcased throughout the entire event. Bring your family
and friends to the Avon River and visit the eclectic culinary village from
6–9 pm. The Mill Street Craft Beer and Wine Pavilion will be open
from 6 pm–midnight. www.savourstratford.com
Toronto Star Culinary Stage — Learn about the many flavours of
the world that are now at home in Ontario’s culinary “melting pot,”
including presentations on the foods of India, Trinidad, Mexico, Peru,
Thailand, Brazil, Burma and Eastern Europe. Learn from celebrity chefs
including Vikram Vij, Roger Mooking, Elizabeth Rivasplata, Wing
Li, Mara Salles, Naomi Duguid, Francisco Alejandri, Jordan
Lassaline, and Tim Larsen. www.savourstratford.com
GE Café Chefs Series presents Vikram Vij. Join celebrated Chef
Vikram Vij for an intimate 3-hour class and lunch. This demonstration-
www.davidsbistro.ca
A Taste of Europe
since 1974
ALWAYS
a 3-course
prix fixe menu
option
432 Richmond St.
at Carling • London
Murder Mystery
Dinner Theatre
$39 .99 per person includes a Mystery Unlimited performance,
salad, main course, coffee/tea, dessert, and gratuity.
See our website for more details.
Celebrating
Oktoberfest
Sept. 27–Oct. 12
Book Your Mystery Now!
Sept. 27 • Oct. 25 • Nov. 29
122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)
519-679-9940
Open Daily for Dinner
www.marienbad.ca
Lunch Monday–Saturday

Enjoy
№ 43 | September/October 2013
style class is limited to 40 participants who will interact with Vikram
as he introduces them to his world-renowned modern Indian cuisine.
your Using local ingredients, Vikram will prepare a 3-course lunch for
life! participants and pair the menu with specially selected wines from
Chateau des Charmes. Participants will also receive a signed copy
of Vikram’s most recent book, Vij’s at Home: Relax, Honey, and a GE
Chefs Series apron. The Local Community Food Centre, Saturday,
September 21. www.savourstratford.com
City Hall Learning Centre — Compare Ontario craft beers to international
brands, or taste the subtleties of Canadian and American
whiskies. Add a global perspective in your pursuit of a healthier lifestyle
from global grains to characteristics of Asian and local teas. These talks and
tastings are informative, entertaining and guaranteed to broaden your
culinary knowledge and perspective. www.savourstratford.com
The Taste of Ontario Artisan Alley — Saturday, September 21 —
REGISTER TODAY!
New for 2013 is an afternoon of testing and tasting some of Ontario’s
Classes starting in Marchnewest VQA wines, up-and-coming craft beers, samples from Dillon’s
Register now!
Small Batch Distillers, and exclusive cheeses provided by Dairy
www.fanshawec.ca/ce Farmers of Ontario from Ontario farm artisan cheese makers. A
CULINARY & highlight of the Alley is the selection of a variety of cask beers — the
unique and limited run of unfiltered and unpasteurized beers — only
HOSPITALITY
available at the Festival from 11 am–5 pm. www.savourstratford.com
Savour Stratford Sunday Tasting, presented by Scotiabank —
TAKE YOUR INTEREST OR PASSION TO September 22. The highlight of the culinary festival takes place at the
A WHOLE NEW LEVEL
tented garden party in Stratford’s Market Square, from noon–4 pm
(VIP) and 1–4 pm (General Admission). Thirty top local chefs pair up with
For more information on courses & to register visit:
Perth County producers to create an array of seasonal morsels, to tempt
fanshawec.ca/ce
your palates and to be judged for the festival’s top tasting awards. Guests
sample and savour the best of Perth County, while sipping Ontario VQA
wines and craft beers with live entertainment. www.savourstratford.com
“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Stratford Garlic Festival — Celebrate two scent-sational days of garlic
Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine in beautiful Stratford! Wander through the Garlic Market, watch celebrity
chef presenters, hear what garlic gurus have to say, and learn to braid
garlic! It’s a celebration of everything garlic and a community project of the
Kiwanis Club of Stratford. Saturday September 7, 9–4 pm and Sunday
September 8, 10 am–4 pm. www.stratfordgarlicfestival.com
Flavours of Stratford Culinary Walks — Two guided walking tours
present locally produced culinary delights in the heart of Stratford. Visit
a selection of unique food destinations to meet passionate artisans.
Morning tours are held from 10:30 am–1:30 pm. Afternoon tours are
held from 2:30–5:30 pm. Tastings along the way conclude with a custom
sandwich and sample of craft beer or wine. Wednesday–Saturday in
September. www.visitstratford.ca/attractions
Weekend Foraging with Peter Blush — Search the scenic trails of
Southwestern Ontario for delicious wild edibles and mushrooms with
veteran forager Peter Blush. Learn how to properly identify, harvest
and prepare nature’s bounty with conservation in mind. Offered
every weekend in September and October. Custom tours are available
• Vegetarian through the week. www.pucksplenty.com
Options
Pubs, Pilsner and Spirits tours — Stratford enthusiasts guide
Takeout
you on a walking pub crawl through Stratford’s Victorian downtown.
Catering Sample four craft beers as you hear about the spirited side of Stratford
• Reservations and the tumultuous brewing history of Perth County.
Recommended www.visitstratford.ca/pubstour
Birtch Farms Apple Festival — A two-day kick off to the fall
ADDIS ABABA Restaurant festival season, featuring pick your own apples and pumpkins, horsedrawn
wagon rides along the “Apple Tale Trail,” scarecrow making,
Tues–Fri 5–1pm • Sat 12–1pm • Sun 2–1pm
465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222
corn maze, food tent, wine tasting and new product sampling.
www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com Strolling musicians, fresh baked apple fritters, apple pies, apple

№ 43 | September/October 2013
muffins, caramel apples and much more. The Festival is held from
September 14–15, 10 am–5 pm. www.birtchfarms.com
Winemakers Dinner Series at The Prune — Chef Bryan Steele
and Sommelier Peter Lavoie invite their favourite Ontario wineries
to The Prune Restaurant for a Winemaker’s series of dinners this
season, starting on September 20th at 8 pm. Dinners will be created
by Chef Steele to complement the wines, with help from Sommelier
Lavoie and the winemakers. www.theprune.com
Share the Health Farmraiser — Amazing music and incredible
food to raise funds for The Local Community Food Centre to
purchase fresh, healthy and organic local food. A shuttle from The
Local Community Food Centre to farms runs from 11 am–2 pm on
September 28th. www.thelocalcfc.org
Savour Stratford Tutored Tasting — Dark Beer and Stinky
Cheese. Just in time for All Hallow’s Eve, come and enjoy the fun of
pairing some of the stinkiest cheese available with some great dark
beers — a combination to get you through the long nights of fall.
October 5 and 26 from 3–5 pm.
Savour Stratford Culinary Trails inspired by Bacon and Ale, Maple
and Chocolate are available year round at the Stratford Tourism
Alliance. www.visitstratford.ca/bacontrail, www.visitstratford.ca/
mapletrail, www.visitstratford.ca/chocolatetrail
CAFÉ OPEN TUES TO FRI, 11-4
SUNDAY BRUNCH, 11-4
AVAILABLE EVENINGS FOR
PRIVATE DINING, WEDDINGS
CORPORATE EVENTS,
ANNIVERSARY DINNERS,
CHRISTMAS & BIRTHDAY PARTIES
NOW TAKING THANKSGIVING ORDERS
FOR BOXED TURKEY DINNERS
LIMITED QUANTITIES AVAILABLE
FALL/WINTER
MENU LAUNCHING
LABOUR DAY
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Our readers want to know, so send us info about culinary events,
fundraisers, and regional news. With BUZZ in the Subject line,
send to: editor@eatdrink.ca.
at MUSEUM LONDON
theriverroom.ca 519.850.2287
theriverroom.ca | 519.850.2287
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519-434-6736
www.mykonosrestaurant.ca

46 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
wine
The EPIC Wine Trail
Touring County Road 50 along Lake Erie
By JANE ANTONIAK
| Photography by BRUCE FYFE
Head south for a leisurely road trip
along the southern most part
of Canada — the peaceful and
picturesque County Roads 50, 20
and 5 in Essex County between Kingsville
and Amherstburg — and take in EPIC: the
Erie Pelee Island Coast wine route of nearly
20 quality wineries.
This tour will be especially spectacular
in the fall when not only are the trees in
colour but the grapes are in production
along with the incredible vegetable and
fruit bounty of this rich agricultural region
only two hours from London. EPIC is
producing award-winning wines due to the
cool breezes off Lake Erie combined with
the highest heat units in the country.
The two giants of EPIC bookend the
route, Pelee Island Winery on County Road
20 in Kingsville and Colio Estate Wines
just off County Road 50 in Harrow, are the
original wineries of the region and they
playfully fight for dibs on who started first
in 1979/80. Pelee throws down the gauntlet
when it points to grapes being grown on
Pelee Island back in the 1800s (and there
is a museum on the island to back up the
claim). Both wineries today are producing
large volumes (from 350,000 to 450,000
cases annually) and shipping across
Canada and to other countries. Both also
have successful retail outlets in China.
Pelee produces and bottles its wine in
Kingsville, bringing the grapes by ferry
from the island. It also source grapes from
other growers. Visitors can go to the island
by ferry from Kingsville or Leamington (in
season) which is a great day or overnight
trip. On the island you can visit a tasting
room and tour the gorgeous vineyards by
bike or car. There are BBQ stations at the
Pelee pavilion where you can grill your own
Photo courtesy of EPIC

№ 43 | September/October 2013
food while enjoying wine. Pretty perfect!
In Kingsville, Pelee offers complimentary
tastings and has a full retail outlet which
offers many wines not available in the
LCBO. Tours of the facility include the
barrel rooms and bottling areas which
employ about 50 people.
Pelee has over 65 wines now. This summer
saw the release of two new lines aimed at
growing numbers of people interested in
sweeter wines, following the very successful
marketing of plush, velvety wines in the U.S.
The new VQA Island Time semi-sweet merlot
and Island Time Riesling Vidal are meant to
meet the demand for sweeter wines, which
have always done well for Pelee in Alberta.
At 235 grams of sugar per litre this would put
Island Time at 2 to 3 on the old sweetness
scale. “These wines are not complicated, you
don’t have to think about it,” explains Lori
Lupton, sales representative in Southwestern
Ontario. “The aging market getting into wine
and the younger people switching to wine
are really enjoying these,” she says. Pelee has
also released the Singing Moon label, a VQA
sauvignon blanc, a VQA pinot blanc, and a
VQA cabernet sauvignon merlot. Some of
these have replaced some of the Alvar label
as Pelee was looking for a more appealing
designed label to compete in the rapidly
growing marketplace.
Colio Estate Wines continues to enjoy
the popularity of the Girls’ Night Out brand
Wine Tasting at Pelee Island Winery
which now includes six wines and four
flavoured wine beverages with fun names
like Strawberry Samba and Tropical Tango.
New to the line, and also in the sweeter
category, is the crisp and refreshing Girls’
Night Out Sparkling. Colio is known as a
sparkling wine maker and has charmat
method tanks in its Harrow winery. Colio
has recently added a new line of wines
called Lake & River using grapes from their
200 acres in Essex near Lake Erie and also
from 21 acres in Niagara near the Niagara
River. These moderately priced wines are
typical of Colio’s friendly attitude when it
comes to pleasing people. The winery offers
tastings at its Harrow retail outlet.
In between these two giants are nearly
20 other wineries and places to eat and
enjoy the view of Lake Erie. A standout
for scenery is Viewpoint Estate Winery,
situated right on the shores of Erie on
County Road 50. In season, it operates the
Lakefront patio with offerings that include
a charcuterie & cheese board.
If you’re more interested in what comes
out of the lake than looking at it, venture
inland a bit to a long-time Essex county
favourite, Meadows by the Lake restaurant,
near Harrow on County Road 41. The
fresh yellow perch is the #1 seller, and for
good reason, as it is moist and delicious.
Co-owner Neda Thomas-Jahn says they sell
about 8,000 pounds of perch a year, which
they purchase from Taylor Fish Company
in Wheatley. “We’re so spoiled here,” says
Thomas-Jahn happily. They take great pride
in their fish, serving it with homemade
tartar sauce nicely flavoured with dill.
Really helps soak up the wine!
Another way to wear off the wine is to
participate in a Farm Dog Cycles tour of
Girl’s Night Out by Colio Estate Wines

48 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Young grapes, above, at 42 Degrees Estate Winery. Owners
Suzanne Dajczak and Martin Gorski, centre, also operate the
Serenity Lavender Farm on the same property. Bottom, tour
on an Opus bicycle with Farm Dog Cycles
the area with Meg Balsillie and Liam Brennan. The
couple were recently wed on the Balsillie family
farm and their guests inquired where they could
take a cycling tour of the wineries. Meg and Liam
then started the business with beautiful Opus
bicycles from Montreal. Liam has fitted them with
reclaimed tobacco kiln wood baskets that hold
six bottles of wine. They take small groups on
their “one o’clock cruise” of three wineries along
back roads for “local stories and crop touring,”
says Liam. The business operates out of The Fruit
Wagon, the Balsillie farm, which has an impressive
roadside stand and gorgeous orchards, complete
with row signs explaining the different fruits,
vegetables and flowers being grown on the 35 acres.
Some smaller winery highlights along EPIC include
North 42 Degrees Estate Winery on County Road 50.
The winery shares its property with Serenity Lavender
Farm. Owners Martin Gorski and Suzanne Dajczak
take great pride in the stewardship of their land and
resources. The winery operates on gravity flow and is
energy efficient — the processing building is heated
with energy produced by the fermentation process.
Suzanne grows one acre of lavender and creates value
added products including body products, culinary
lavender and herbs de province. Martin is excited to
be part of the emerging wine business as a long time
family owner of property in Colchester. Martin’s 2012
cabernet franc recently won silver in the Lake Erie
North Shore Wine awards. He produces 3,000 cases
of estate wine (all grown on site) annually. “With our
high calcium soils, sandy loam and warm winds, the
sky is the limit,” says Martin.
As with all great wine tours, you simply can’t do
it all in one day. Earlier this year we did another leg
of the tour which included Oxley Estate Winery and
Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards. Oxley is a renovated former
vegetable farm/barn with a warm and inviting atmo­
Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards

№ 43 | September/October 2013
sphere cultivated
by owner
Ann Neydon
Wilson, a transplanted
Detroit
lawyer who
offers friendly
tastings and a
delicious lunch
that includes
local preserves.
She loves living
on the Oxley
bluff and is very
excited about
their chardonnay,
which
recently won silver
in Lake Erie
Bottles from Oxley Estate Winery
North Shore
wine awards.
Winemaker Rori McCaw at Cooper’s Hawk
Vineyards near Oxley (closer inland towards
the 401 and Tecumseh), is doing some exciting
work with grapes as well. Cooper’s Hawk
enjoys touring visitors through the vineyards
where you may indeed see some hawks and
other birds of prey. An environmentally forward
winery, Cooper’s Hawk enjoys sharing
the story of their sustainable practices.
EPIC was established by the rebranding
of the former SWOVA — South Western
Ontario Vintners Association. As Lynnette
Bain, Tourism Windsor Essex explains,
the trail is meeting a demand from visitors
to the area. “The passionate group of
wine makers and proprietors worked
together to identify themselves in more
simple terms. They needed the consumer
to quickly identify who and where their
wineries were. The group works together
as ambassadors for the local industry to
create awareness, market the wine and
region, and educate their membership.”
Whatever the name, this is a lovely
escape from the 401 and within easy reach
of London and area.
www.visitwindsoressex.com
www.epicwineries.com
Tues–Fri: 10–6
Saturdays: 9–5
Sundays: 11–4
Closed Mondays
STORE
FEATURING
local natural & organic meats
wild-caught salmon & seafood
a variety of gluten-free products
local cheeses & deli meats
gourmet oils, sauces & preserves
2042 Elgin St, Arva ON
“Just 3km North of Masonville”
519-601-6456
www.arvamillhouse.com
Days
a
6Week
From the Field
to Our Kitchen to
EST. 1996
Your Table
Local Ontario Ingredients
Non-GMO • Organic Lines
Canning Classes
Wedding Favours & Gift Baskets Available
London, Ontario
519-680-7912 • surelyhomemade.com
JANE ANTONIAK is Manager, Communications & Media
Relations, King’s University College, Western University. She
enjoys touring vineyards — usually with a glass in her hand!
BRUCE FYFE is a librarian at Western University and a
regular contributing photographer to eatdrink magazine.

50 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Beer beer matters
So These Two Biologists and an
Engineer Walk Into a Bar ...
Forked River Brewing Company, in London
By The Malt Monk
It seems an eternity since London
had a microbrewery dedicated to
supplying local pubs and restaurants
with locally made, fresh, crafted
beers. While craft breweries sprang up
in nearby towns and cities, the industry
seemed to bypass the Forest City. That is,
until early 2013, when two biologists and
an engineer formed a brewing company
and opened a brew house with 10-hectolitre
capacity, called Forked River Brewing
Forked River co-owners, from the left, Andrew
Peters, Dave Reed and Steve Nazarian
Company. Founders
Dave Reed, Andrew
Peters and Steve
Nazarian are awardwinning
home brewers
and craft beer lovers
whose dream of bringing
locally made, fresh, all-natural crafted beer
to the London market has become a reality.
They now service the London hospitality
industry with draft and cask beer. They
have a retail and tasting room at the
brewery where the public can purchase
a fresh growler of draft beer. They also
have bottled half-litre sales.
When I visited Forked River Brewing,
I was greeted by Reed and Nazarian,
who were more than happy to show me
around, talk beer and brewing, and offer
a tasting of the product. They both seem
proud of their new brewing company
and so they should be. It’s quite a
daunting task for little guys to enter
Labatt’s home market — but it becomes
obvious at first sip that Forked River is
not targeting the same consumer. The
first thing that you taste in a FRB brew
is “freshness” because none of the FRB craft

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 51
Steve Nararian at the Tasting Station
beers are filtered, leaving all the wonderful
natural flavours that the amalgam of
fermented grain, hops, yeast and pure water
deliver to the palate — flavours which are
largely filtered out of corporate beers.
It’s hard to believe, but there are
generations of Canadian beer drinkers who
have never tasted fresh beer. They limit
themselves to bottled or canned corporate
brands which may have sat on the shelf for
who knows how long. Real, unpasteurized
beer must be consumed fresh (as soon as
it’s done conditioning) and has a limited
shelf life because it is a living food product.
Flavour does degrade with filtering,
pasteurizing and shelf time. Forked River
seems to be aware of this and makes
just enough beer to meet demand. Also,
limiting the output to draft beer, cask beer
and fresh growler sales ensures the beer is
consumed while fresh, in its best condition
and at peak flavour.
Their business plan seems pretty solid — to
service the local London market with quality
natural crafted beers. Nothing really over
the top yet, just good drinking flavourful
brews with broad appeal that should please
both craft beer acolytes and first-time sipper
alike. There are two flagship beers — Capital
Blonde Ale (an unfiltered, well-rounded
American style blond ale), and Riptide Rye
Pale Ale (a very tasty, unfiltered spicy pale
ale made with rye malt). The company
will also brew a constantly rotating array
of one-off special brews — the first one is
“Ridunkelous,” a quenching Bavarian styled
Dunkel Weiss which approximates the taste
of Schneider Tap 5 without being too heavy
(no small feat for new brewers). Rumour

52 www.eatdrink.ca
has it there is another special release brew
bubbling away in the fermenter, which will
be announced shortly.
From what I’ve seen and tasted from
Forked River I have to say: London,
we’ve got ourselves a real craft brewer in
town. Watch for FRB beers on tap at your
Late Summer Tasting Notes
Summer has been good to local artisanal
beer drinkers, lots of new brews on tap.
Here are some notable summer offerings
which grabbed me by the taste buds and
slaked a big summer thirst.
Maisel’s Original Weisse is a Bavarian
1 Hefeweiss which has recently acquired
Ontario agents. I had a few of these on
tap and I have rarely tasted better
Hefeweiss. This is arguably
among the top three Bavarian
Weissbiers and it delivers the
hallmark hefeweizen fruity
bubble-gum/banana esters
and clove-like phenols in spades.
Unfiltered, dry, biscuity, fruity,
spicy, spritzy with natural carbonation
and absolutely glorious on a warm summer
bistro patio. It will certainly impress Schneider,
Ayinger or Weihenstephaner Weiss fans.
I hope this eventually becomes available in
bottles at the LCBO.
2
The second notable summer delight was
Beau’s Opa’s Gose (lcbo 343921). Gose
is an ancient beer style and a specialty ale
indigenous to the Goslar and Leipzig region
of Lower Saxony. It is distinguished as a
tart wheat ale made with cheese bacteria
and ale yeast, but is also salty due to the
dissolved mineral salts in local aquifers.
It contains mostly malted wheat and
minimal hopping with a good dose
of coriander for balance — this
gives a unique citrusy salty-tart,
spicy dry discernment. The
style was unique, and very
popular, but seemed doomed
to extinction with only one
brewer making authentic Leipziger
Gose when the Berlin wall fell. But
this arcane style has been revived
by North American crafters who
have put their own unique spin on it.
Amsterdam has made a Gose called
“Maverick and Gose” which is pretty
№ 43 | September/October 2013
favourite pub or visit the brewery for a fresh
growler.
Forked River Brewing Company
45 Pacific Court, Unit 16, London
519-630-4756
www.forkedriverbrewing.com
good but Beau’s Opa’s Gose really impressed
me. A hazy unfiltered orangey-gold with
a lofty three-inch white cap. Opa’s Gose
is a tart beer with mild citrusy notes and
a unique salty character. The saltiness is
diffused and complemented by the judicious
use of coriander. Tart, biscuity, lightly
salty with a spicy dry finish — this brew is
a natural to pair with watermelon,
summer sausage, German potato
salad or ripe pungent cheeses.
Lastly, we had a summer
3 release of a locally made
Belgian Strong Golden Ale
called The Wayward Son (lcbo
337345) by Radical Road Brewing
Co. Don’t let the artsy packaging fool
you. This ale is a world class Belgian styled
strong golden ale. Aged in pinot noir barrels
and utilizing a combination of barley, wheat,
oats and Belgian candi sugar this is a big hazy
gold ale that produces notes of dark cherry,
honey, bitter orange peel, apricot, spice and
has a light hint of oak in the finish. For me the
outstanding feature of this one-off brew was
its outstanding balance and deeply rounded
drinkability — lightly dry, bright and noncloying.
It’s touted as being “a complex
offering with a wayward spirit.” I tasted a
little complexity, but the real attraction
here is the wonderfully unique mouth feel
and character that the mixture of select
grains gives this brew. The brewers
state that “rebelliousness has led you
here.” Perhaps, but it is the consistently
solid artisanal offerings of this brewer
which keeps me coming back. I paired
a chilled bottle of this great ale with a
spicy Chicken Diable sandwich, with
very satisfying results.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R.
Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer
culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at
maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 53

54 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Beer matters
theatre
Donald DISHES on Local Theatre
By DONALD D’HAENE
“ I unless I know it
can’t expose a
human weakness
on the stage
New
Column!
through having it myself,” wrote
Tennessee Williams.
Busted. On stage and off! And even
though I was a late bloomer — not having
seen a play until I was 20 — theatre opened
up my eyes to a window outside of my soul.
Not so coincidentally, Williams’ A
Streetcar Named Desire was one of my first.
“I don’t want realism. I want magic!” its lead
character says. London has provided me with
both magic and realism, as an actor, producer
and reviewer over the past two decades.
I’ve seen hundreds of local professional
and amateur shows over the past five years
alone. I plan on covering both, but I feel
amateur theatre is London’s best-kept
secret. Well, not for long, if I can help it.
Take the much-anticipated production of
Metamorphosis (Palace Theatre, September
19–28) for instance. Get this: the entire play
takes place in a pool of water!
Director John Gerry addresses his
current project and passion
for theatre
better than
I ever could
when he states,
“a show
represents all
that is magical
about theatre.
The ability to
tell stories that
are eternal and that
will speak to the soul.”
Gerry is very particular in his choices.
When asked by the Palace what show he
had always wanted to direct, he replied that
Metamorphosis was a show he would give up
his birthday in Spain for. What show could
inspire such zeal? Mary Zimmerman’s Tonywinning
play conjures the forces of Ovid’s
myths into gorgeous imagery, provocative
moments and breathtaking story telling —
all in a pool that is 10 by 16 by 2 feet deep.
Set designer David Long adds, “The
Palace Theatre was built with a concrete
foundation — poured concrete with
concrete supports — so that it can take
the weight of the pool.” With the help of
Moore’s Water Gardens, Long has built the
pool like a stage (with a lid) on top of the
existing stage.
The Old East Village theatre is certainly
opening its busy doors in ways it’s never
done before. As if the pool wasn’t enough,
The Palace hosted a touring cat show
after the installation. No reports of soggy
moggies. I should know — you think I’d
miss a show featuring fifteen rescued
pussies, two chickens and a ground hog?
Adjacent to the Palace, in a relatively
new space, the Procunier Hall, All Aboard
hits the stage September 10 through 14.
“All Aboard portrays an integral part of
the history of Black Canada,” according
John Gerry and Melanie Stewart in
Metaphorphosis at The Palace Theatre
Photo by Jackie Noble of Noble Concepts

Photo by John Iglesias
№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 55
to its playwright, Dr. Colin Forbes. The
author and subject is the last surviving
CPR porter and this play
recounts his experience
with racial prejudice in the
’40s, as well as the history
of the Canadian Pacific
Railway. It is also the story
of a determined young man
who eventually becomes
a pediatrician and spends
the rest of his professional
life teaching and practicing
in Africa. On his return to
Canada, he establishes the first medical
clinic on an isolated First Nations Reserve.
Speaking of Canadian history, I spoke to
playwright, Norm Foster, about Elgin Theatre
Guild’s remounting here in London of their
recent critical and commercial hit Old Love at
The ARTS Project September 19–21.
“Why does this particular
play resonate with audiences,
Norm?” I asked.
“Old Love?” Foster
pondered. “The older I get,
the older my characters get.
This play was written with
people my age in mind.
People still looking for
love long after most of us
have found it. That’s why
the play remains one of my
favourites.”
I’m not looking for love and it still
resonated with me. Maybe ‘cause I fit in
with the “old” part. I told Foster I believe
it is one of his best works. I state that even
though some of my personal best roles were
in his other plays!
A role I always wanted but never landed
Lesley Chapman and Rob Faust in
Old Love by Elgin Theatre Guild
Phil Calautit in Little Shop of Horrors
by Iglesias Productions
was in Little Shop of Horrors. Take your pick:
Dentist, Seymour — heck, I would have
settled for a patient! Nevertheless,
I’m really looking
forward to Iglesias Productions
version at McManus
Studio, October 13–26.
Director John Iglesias
continues the passion
theme stating, “I’m just
following my heart. I’m
a fan of the underdog
love stories.” With several
successful productions
under his belt, this is the first show Iglesias
says he has put, “other people in charge
to shine. I can’t do it all myself anymore!”
Sounds like a great theatre motto!
Finally, thirty years after my first
Tennessee Williams experience, Theatre
Soup mounts Suddenly Last Summer,
October 7–19 at the
ARTS Project. Psychosurgeons,
lobotomies,
homosexuality, oh my!
Can’t wait to see how
director Lesleigh Turner
handles this stark, dare I
say it, “psycho-drama”?
Back to my quote at the
outset. I should know.
Anyway, can’t wait to
expose more weaknesses
on stage figuratively and
literally. More on that in my next column.
See you in November!
Donald D’Haene is Editor of donaldsdish.ca. He has
been cast in Fuse Productions’ The Full Monty, playing The
Palace Theatre February 7–16. Twitter @TheDonaldNorth and
email: donalddhaene@hotmail.com.

56 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
books
Talking With My Mouth Full
My Life as a Professional Eater
by Gail Simmons
Review by Darin Cook
It took four simple words for Gail
Simmons to turn food into a lifelong
career. She wrote those words — Eat
Write Travel Cook — on a scrap
of paper and they became a simplified
vocation manual. “Like an eerie fortune
cookie, that scrap became the trajectory
of my life,” Simmons writes in her memoir,
Talking with my Mouth Full: My Life as
a Professional Eater (Hyperion, 2012,
$26.99). With the drive to act upon those
four words, she became what can only be
described collectively as a professional eater,
with illustrious forays as chef, food critic,
magazine editor, and Food Network TV star.
These people known as professional
eaters do actually exist. How can the rest of
us not be jealous of someone who is paid to
eat the best food the world has to offer? We
all have to eat, some of us get better meals
than others on a consistent basis, some of
us go to fancy restaurants more frequently,
but professional eaters earn their salary by
eating top-notch food. Quite a gig.
Simmons’ childhood memories come
from growing up in a Jewish family in
Toronto, with elaborate holiday feasts,
her father’s yearly pickle making, and her
mother holding neighbourhood cooking
classes from her kitchen. When her mother
was pregnant with her, Simmons writes
that “she would wake up in the middle of
the night demanding chocolate éclairs.
I feel like that explains a lot.” Family
vacations introduced her to exotic food and
the first time she got drunk, complete with
resulting hangover, was on a winery tour
while visiting her father’s home country of
South Africa. She was six at the time — that
could explain a lot, as well.
Out of college, Simmons worked as a
journalist, writing about food for Toronto
Life and National
Post. She decided
to differentiate
herself from the
crowd by enrolling
in cooking school to learn some
practical and theoretical culinary skills.
Simmons writes: “The biggest revelation was
how little I actually knew about food. I loved
the jargon, the language of a kitchen, which
was all completely foreign: bouquet garni,
mirepoix, fumet, forced meat, consommé,
gastrique.” These language lessons in the
kitchen, along with experiences as a line
cook, became invaluable to her as a food
writer. She has an incredibly eclectic career
in the food industry — writing college
newspaper restaurant reviews, line cook
at Le Cirque, managing special events for
Daniel Boulud’s restaurants (the famed
chef who years later cooked Simmons’
wedding meal, an exquisite menu that read
like a Top Chef meal itself). Her greatest
on-the-job education was working on
eccentric assignments as assistant to Vogue
magazine’s food editor, Jeffery Steingarten.
This involved feverish testing of any food
whims that Steingarten had, like tasting 20
kinds of caviar, or making espresso from 17
different coffee machines. This has all led
to what she calls the best job in the world,
as Special Projects Director at Food & Wine
magazine, attending food festivals around
the world.
Then reality TV came along and Simmons
became a recurring judge on Top Chef, and
host of the spin-off, Top Chef: Just Desserts.
As a professional eater, her decisions as
a food judge, based on her astute taste
buds, can change the lives of young chefs.
“Actually food is far easier to judge than, say,
visual art, music, or dance, because there

№ 43 | September/October 2013
are very strict rules to cooking,” Simmons
writes. “I would argue that judging food is
based 80 percent on science and technique,
and 20 percent on instinct and artistic
flair. Taste may appear totally subjective,
but there are scientific forces at work
determining how food should be cooked
and prepared. It’s chemistry more than
anything. Non-professionals tend to judge
food based on their biases more than on
science and proper technique.”
This memoir depicts a laundry list of
exquisite dishes that most readers will only
ever enjoy in their imaginations, but we
can’t begrudge her having such an enviable
position. Us non-professionals may eat just
as much, but our credentials and training do
not match what Simmons has accomplished.
She followed a dream and put in time to
become an authority by eating, cooking, and
assessing a lot of food.
Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares,
tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.
Darin Cook is a regular contributor to eatdrink who works
and plays in Chatham-Kent, and keeps himself well-read and
well-fed by visiting the bookstores and restaurants of London.
115 King Street, London
519-645-1335 www.jillstable.ca
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2nd Course: appetizer or soup
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58 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
cookbooks
Jerusalem: A Cookbook
By Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi
Review and Recipe Selections by Janice Zolf
It’s safe to say that while politics may
divide Israel, it is the food that brings
it together. That theme pervades
Jerusalem: A Cookbook, which won
international cookbook of the year in 2012. The
richly illustrated book, written by Israeli chef
Yotam Ottolenghi and Palestinian chef Sami
Tamimi, celebrates the delicious collision of
cultures found in the kitchens of Jerusalem.
The cookbook partners are the same age,
but never knew each other growing up in
the biblical city. Thirty years later they met
in London England, and began their food
collaboration, fusing their rich memories
in a series of restaurants, delis and an
award-winning cookbook. Colourful street
food inspired by the great Suk (market)
jumps off the page in this gorgeous ode
to Jerusalem, like the Tunisian inspired
Shakshuka, a breakfast staple made with
ripe tomatoes and eggs — delicious with
fresh pita bread. There’s a spin on risotto,
a lower fat and
healthier version
of the Arborio rice
version, made
with barley. This
one features
diced tomatoes,
marinated feta
cheese and
vegetable stock,
a flavourful twist
on a traditional
meal found in
many Jerusalem
Yotam Ottolenghi
restaurants.
Jerusalem, both the book and the city,
celebrates the bounty of the area: figs,
pomegranates, dates and award winning
olive oil, thanks to the rich soil and
temperate climate.
The key to hummus, according to
Canadian chef Bonnie Stern, is at least
10 minutes of
pureeing in the
food processor.
Ottolenghi
concurs in
Jerusalem; the
goal is a thick, creamy paste, rich in
tahini and an “exciting centerpiece” in
many Jerusalem restaurants. Everyone in
the Middle East lays claim to hummus.
Ottolenghi says hummus wars have caused
“even the best of friends to turn against each
other if they find themselves in opposite
hummus camps.” But there’s love amongst
competitors, ensuring some of the best
hummus joints in the world. Jerusalem’s
no-fail recipe uses chickpeas sautéed
in baking soda, a trick to penetrate the
skins. This traditional Palestinian recipe
was handed down from Sami Tamimi’s
grandmother. Make this version and you’ll
never buy the plastic tub, grocery store
hummus again.
Yotam’s
mother Ruth
can also claim
a few pages of
recipes including
Romano peppers
stuffed with
Basmati rice,
tomatoes,
ground lamb,
dill, mint and
Sami Tamimi
cardamom.
Mouth-watering
roasted red
pepper and baked egg galette garnished
with cumin and cilantro are stunning
staples in Arab restaurants in Jerusalem;
the cookbook’s illustration will make you
want to drop everything and cook.
The French may be known for baguettes
but in Jerusalem it’s the challah that people

№ 43 | September/October 2013
line up for on Fridays. The Shabbat braided
bread is a bakery favourite that arrived
from Eastern Europe. The photograph of a
typical Jerusalem bakery is enticing enough
to make you want to book a trip to Israel.
Here’s another reason to go, from Ottolenghi
and Tamimi: the bureka. The stuffed filo
pastry came to Israel via Turkey and Greece.
The cookbook partners provide a delicious
recipe for bite-size burekas filled with
ricotta and pecorino, made famous by a
bureka joint on Jaffa Street.
A standout experience in many Jerusalem
restaurants is the Israeli version of tapas,
known as meze. As many as a dozen salads
and dips are set out in the middle of the
table, fuelling the communal, sharing food
experience celebrated by both Jewish and
Arab cultures. Jerusalem includes recipes
KLEIBER’S
A Downtown London Culinary Landmark
at the Covent Garden Market since 1940
Get a close-up look at Jerusalem: A Cookbook
and watch London Ontario Chef
Sagi Yaakov — a Stratford Chef
School grad — cook the following
two delicious recipes in producer
Janice Zolf’s kitchen.
www.youtube.com/
watch?v=3YImvgBqLDc&feature=youtu.be
for the ubiquitous hummus, beet dip with
yogurt and Zatar, and many more delicious
dishes that are part of this hospitality
tradition. As London Ontario chef Sagi
Yaakov says, “The only thing that unites
Arabs and Israelis in Israel is the food.” You
can watch Sagi cook Barley risotto with
marinated feta, and Burnt eggplant with
lemon and pomegranate seeds from the
Jerusalem cookbook. Visit the website below
and experience some of the culinary spirit of
this wonderful cookbook in the hands of an
expert Israeli chef.
Anna Turkewicz’s
delicatessen and
catering have a
reputation for
personal service and
offering a large
selection of European
specialties, including
quality products from
Germany, Holland,
Poland & Switzerland
Ensure your event is a success!
For the best food and venues, call
Kleiber’s for a free catering estimate.
Civic Garden’s Approved Caterer
London’s German Canadian Club
and Polish Canadian Club Caterer
JANICE ZOLF is a freelance writer and video producer in
London, Ontario. www.janicezolfproductions.com
Recipes printed on the following pages ...
Covent Garden Market
519-495-7753

60 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
Recipes courtesy Jerusalem: A Cookbook, Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, Random House, 2012.
Burnt eggplant with garlic, lemon & pomegranate seeds
Serves 4 as part of a meze plate
This salad has the most wonderful smoky aroma and
works well with grilled meat or fish, as well as with other
dips and salads to kick-start a passionate Levantine
feast. But in order to get the full smoky flavour, you really
need to stick to the instructions and allow the eggplants
to burn well. If you want to turn it into a “real” baba
ghanoush, whatever that may be (see page 76 in the
book), drizzle on some light tahini paste at the end.
4 large eggplants (3¼ lb / 1.5 kg before cooking; 2½
cups /550 g after burning and draining the flesh)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
grated zest of 1 lemon and 2 tbsp freshly squeezed
lemon juice
5 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tbsp chopped mint
seeds of ½ large pomegranate (scant cup / 80 g in
total)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 If you have a gas range, line the base with aluminum
foil to protect it, keeping only the burners exposed.
Place the eggplants directly on four separate gas
burners with medium flames and roast for 15 to 18
minutes, until the skin is burnt and flaky and the
flesh is soft. Use metal tongs to turn them around
occasionally. Alternatively, score the eggplants with
a knife in a few places, about ¼-inch / 2 cm deep, and
place on a baking sheet under a hot broiler for about
an hour. Turn them around every 20 minutes or so and
continue to cook even if they burst and break.
2 Remove the eggplants from the heat and allow them to
cool down slightly. Once cool enough to handle, cut an
opening along each eggplant and scoop out the soft flesh,
dividing it with your hands into long thin strips. Discard
the skin. Drain the flesh in a colander for at least an hour,
preferably longer, to get rid of as much water as possible.
3 Place the eggplant pulp in a medium
bowl and add the garlic, lemon zest
and juice, olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and
a good grind of black pepper. Stir and
allow the eggplant to marinate at room
temperature for at least an hour.
4 When you are ready to serve, mix in most
of the herbs and taste for seasoning. Pile
high on a serving plate, scatter on the
pomegranate seeds, and garnish with
the remaining herbs/veg on our plates is
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№ 43 | September/October 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 61
Barley risotto with marinated feta
Serves 4
This vegetarian main course is a dish everybody
loves, particularly children. Unlike the proper
Italian risotto, ours does not require the exact
precision and meticulous preparation, but still
tastes sensational.
1 cup / 200 g pearl barley
2 tbsp / 30 g unsalted butter
6 tbsp / 90 ml olive oil
2 small celery stalks, cut into ¼-inch / 0.5cm dice
2 small shallots, cut into ¼-inch / 0.5cm dice
4 cloves garlic, cut into 1/16 -inch / 2mm dice
4 thyme sprigs
½ tsp smoked paprika
1 bay leaf
4 strips lemon peel
¼ tsp chile flakes
one 14-oz / 400g can chopped tomatoes
scant 3 cups / 700 ml vegetable stock
1 ¼ cups / 300 ml passata (sieved crushed
tomatoes)
1 tbsp caraway seeds
10½ oz / 300 g feta cheese, broken into
roughly ¾-inch / 2cm pieces
1 tbsp fresh oregano leaves
salt
1 Rinse the pearl barley well under cold water
and leave to drain.
2 Melt the butter and 2 tablespoons of the
olive oil in a very large frying pan and cook
the celery, shallots, and garlic over gentle
heat for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the barley,
thyme, paprika, bay leaf, lemon peel, chile
flakes, tomatoes, stock, passata, and salt. Stir
to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, then
reduce to a very gentle simmer and cook for 45
minutes, stirring frequently to make sure the
risotto does not catch on the bottom of the
pan. When ready, the barley should be tender
and most of the liquid absorbed.
3 Meanwhile, toast the caraway seeds in a dry pan
for a couple of minutes. Then lightly crush them
so that some whole seeds remain. Add them to
the feta with the remaining 4 tablespoons / 60
ml olive oil and gently mix to combine.
4 Once the risotto is ready, check the seasoning
and then divide it among four shallow bowls.
Top each with the marinated feta, including the
oil, and a sprinkling of oregano leaves.

62 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 43 | September/October 2013
the lighter side
Five Shades of Grey
By JUDY J. THOMPSON
Five couples, five houses, a theme
and lots of swapping ... swapping
of recipes, that is! My partner
and I belong to a themed dinner
club. Every two months we meet the other
couples and we vicariously travel to different
countries, or historical periods, or just go
willy-nilly with odd themes.
We take turns hosting and we rotate
responsibility for the courses, which
consist of appetizers, either a soup or a
salad, the main course provided by the
hosts, dessert and the “free ride.”
Now don’t get your knickers in a knot ...
the free ride is the couple who hosted last.
They only have to bring a beverage geared
to the theme.
Going into our fifth year, we’ve
been to England, Turkey, Denmark,
Mexico, Tuscany, India, Austria and
Japan, to name just a few destinations.
Sometimes we shake things up by
having a “Martini Weekend at the
Cottage” or have themes such as
Calgary Stampede, Pirate Night,
Victorian Tea, Childhood Favourites
or Mardi Gras.
Each couple brings their course
and an accompanying beverage to
match the theme. This way we learn
to cook foods we wouldn’t normally
make and try foods we have always
wanted to taste, along with beverages —
alcoholic or virgin.
Some themes and recipes were stellar
hits while some were flops. Often we’d go
whole hog and decorate for the theme.
Turkish Delight was a memorable
occasion. The couple who hosted had a
backyard affair, and erected a Sultan’s tent
with old curtains, cushions to sit on and a
low coffee table to eat at. Hanging from the
center of the structure was an old wrought
iron chandelier with candles. When we
were sated, we pushed away from the table
to lie under the stars.
Pirate Night had the hosts decorating
their dining room like the captain’s
quarters of a ship and dressing up like a
motley pair, speaking Piratese.
Victorian Tea was a wonderful soirée
with foods that Queen Victoria might
have eaten and a beautifully set table, as if
Royalty itself was attending.
One themed evening, The Brier, saw one
of my flops, which was a Stilton Cheese
Ball. Instead of making one big ball, I opted
to make many small ones which depicted
curling stones. Bent toothpicks were
sticking out of the tops, representing the
handles. Not only was it overwhelming to
have so many balls on one plate, but they
tasted horrible!
We reminisce about past dinners, and
the one we most laugh about is Retro
Night — the ’70s.
Our menu included appetizers: celery
with Cheese Whiz, cocktail wieners
dipped in grape jelly, and Harvey
Wallbangers. The main course was
coq au vin, Parisienne potatoes and
mushrooms, paired with Baby Duck
wine. The dessert was apple cake
with ice cream and apple smoothies.
As we looked at the spread before
us, we found the meal lacked colour.
There were drab brown-greys, or an
angry purple-grey, or an ugly greengrey,
a whitish grey or just plain
grey. The soup/salad dish was one
of those disgusting hues too, blending
in with the rest of the colour scheme. No
wonder none of us can remember what was
served for that course!
Laughing, we did come to one
conclusion ... if people in the ’70s took
drugs, it was probably to perk up the
appearance of the food. It tasted good,
but it looked unappetizing and lacking in
culinary colour. Retro Night was definitely
five shades of grey!
JUDY J. THOMPSON is a freelance writer and resides in
London with her husband, Victor. She has two children, Heather and
Matthew and one grandchild, Liam. She works in a local bookstore.

519.433.2891
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