Eatdrink #39 January/February 2013

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

FREE 

№ 39 • January/February 

eatdrink 

2013 

www.eatdrink.ca 

Inn Season with 

Avenue Dining 

at Idlewyld 

and Featuring 

Valentine’s Day Recipes 

from London’s Rising Culinary Rock Stars 

The Early Bird 

A Taste of Tweet Success 

Olive Oil & Balsamic 

Vinegar Tasting Bars 

ALSO: Wicked Catering | Iceculture Inc. | Exploring Walkerville | 4th Annual Craft Beer Awards

Chill in STRATFORD 

with international 

chefs and local flavour 

Participate in a gastronomic journey in Stratford 

this winter as you savour the best of Stratford Chefs 

School student creations guided by international 

chefs at lunch and dinner. The Savour Stratford GE 

Café Chefs Series kicks off with hands-on culinary 

classes led by celebrated chef Aaron Linley in January 

and Top Chef Carl Heinrich in February. Bring your 

friends to Savour Stratford Tastings – exciting 

regional pairings of beer and cheese or our smooth 

favourite Scotch and Chocolate. Meet celebrity chef 

Lynn Crawford at CheeseFEST for a special evening 

of tasting and sipping on February 6. 

You deserve a Savour Stratford culinary getaway 

this winter at one of the Inns of Stratford. 

Book your winter getaway at 

visitstratford.ca

EatAndDrinkMagazineAd_Dec2012_Rev 12-12-11 11:47 AM Page 1 

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eatdrink 

 

inc. 

Restaurants | Chefs | Farmers & Artisans | Culinary Buzz | Recipes | Wine | Travel 

A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario 

Think Global. 

Read Local. 

Publisher 

Managing Editor 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – blavery@eatdrink.ca 

Social Media Editor 

Advertising Sales 

Finances 

Graphics 

Writers 

Photographers 

Jane Antoniak – jantoniak@eatdrink.ca 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Jane Antoniak – jantoniak@eatdrink.ca 

Michael Bell, Jim Sisco – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Chris McDonell 

Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Jane Antoniak, 

Jennifer Gagel, Rick VanSickle, Darin Cook, 

D.R. Hammond, Sue Sutherland Wood, 

Christie Masse, Jill Ellis-Worthington, 

Kym Wolfe, Mary Ann Colihan 

Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes, Andrew Dobson 

Editorial Advisory 

Board 

Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Cathy Rehberg 

Copy Editor 

Jodie Renner – www.JodieRennerEditing.com 

Website 

City Media 

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Telephone & Fax 519 434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Copyright © 2013 eatdrink inc. and the writers. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in eatdrink 

or on eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permis 

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published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the 

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Visit 

www.eatdrink.ca 

A Virtual Magnet for All Things Culinary 

Interactive Digital Magazine, Complete Back Issues and More! 

Cover Photo: Hotelier Marcel Butchey 

and his Avenue Dining Executive Chef Julie 

Glaysher, at the Idlewyld Inn, in London’s 

charming Wortley Village. 

Photo by Steve Grimes 

information, content and/or advertisements published in eatdrink 

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Upbeat Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking 

bistro & caterer 

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com

contents ISSUE № 39 

january/february 2013 

8 

14 

26 

30 

50 

food writer at large 

8 Rising Culinary Stars Take on Valentine’s Day 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

RESTAURANTS 

14 Avenue Dining and Idlewyld Inn, in London 


30 Tasting Tweet Success at The Early Bird, in London 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD 

TRAVEL 

19 Exploring Walkerville, Windsor’s Distillery District 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

spotlight 

26 Bayleys On Ice: Iceculture, in Hensall 

By CHRISTIE MASSE 

culinary retail 

34 Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bars 


37 Crazy about Cocoa Beans: Trends in Chocolate 

By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON 

NEW & NOTABLE 

40 The BUZZ 

THE BUZZ 

caterers 

48 Delightful, not Devilish, at Wicked Catering 

By MARY ANN COLIHAN 

CULINARY EDUCATION 

50 Chef Chris Squire Teaches the importance of Food 

By KYM WOLFE 

Beer matters 

52 The 4th Annual eatdrink Craft Beer Awards 

By THE MALT MONK 

WINE 

56 My Most Memorable Wines of the Year 

By RICK VanSICKLE 

56 60 

BOOKS 

60 A Literary Look at Cocktails 

By DARIN COOK 

COOKBOOKS 

62 The Soup Sisters Cookbook, ed. Sharon Hapton 

65 Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces, ed. Baird 

Reviews and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL 

THE LIGHTER SIDE 

70 A Global Calendar of Holiday Food 

By DARIN COOK

6 www.eatdrink.ca 

№ 39 | January/February 2013 

tidbits 

Skating Into the Limelight 

By Chris McDonell, eatdrink Publisher 

Like all of the hockey players that I have 

ever skated with, I understood before 

I was a teenager that I’d never play in 

the big leagues. Funny, though, how 

the dream — literally and figuratively — 

never truly died. I think that’s why we enjoy 

watching the pros compete, why we care so 

much ... A part of us is on the ice with them. 

In March, London will not only get a 

close up view of figure skating’s biggest 

stars, our city will also get to take a turn 

in the limelight. Hundreds of millions 

of people around the world will tune 

into the 2013 World Figure Skating 

Championships, and thousands will 

visit in person. And here’s the exciting part: they 

will be watching us too. 

Getting to host such an event is no fluke. Our 

sports, political and tourism representatives 

lobbied hard to land this golden opportunity, 

and they succeeded against stiff international 

competition. We’ve shown we can compete 

with the best in the world, and the table is set. 

At eatdrink, we’ve long extolled our virtues as a 

culinary destination. Now we get to prove that. 

So let’s all get ready to take our bows on the 

international stage. We’ve got the best 

servers, the best cooks, the most creative, 

welcoming and hospitable people. The 

world will be watching, the visitors will be 

dining, and we will be celebrating with all 

of the other winners. I can hardly wait! 

And Happy New Year! May 2013 turn 

out to be bountiful for all of us, from 

the farmer who just might be able to 

take a couple of days off at this time of year, to 

the restaurateurs who have had to be incredibly 

creative to survive tough economic times. 

Cheers!

Authentic 

Culinary ExpEriEnCEs 

FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY CULTURE 

IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR 

WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY



food writer at large 

Rising Culinary Rock Stars 

and their recipe suggestions for Valentine’s Day 

By Bryan Lavery 

We at eatdrink have always 

been dedicated to supporting 

and mentoring emerging 

talent in the culinary and 

hospitality industry. Rising Culinary Stars are 

young, up-and-coming chefs and culinary 

professionals who represent the vanguard of 

the modern Ontario culinary scene and have 

a reputation for originality and creativity. 

They have exceptional, compelling culinary 

philosophies and are committed to fostering 

a cutting-edge farm-to-table culinary 

repertoire by sharing their knowledge 

with fellow professionals. Ultimately, it’s 

innovation, ambition, exquisite presentation 

and most importantly, delicious cuisine that 

combine to win a chef the designation. 

We have asked each of our three chefs, 

and this year’s “Honourable Mention” Alicia 

Hartley, to offer recipes for Valentine’s 

Day that reflect their particular style and 

encompass their culinary philosophy. 

Chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic 

He’s an uncompromising artist and 

culinary innovator. Chef Danjiel “Dacha” 

Markovic, an early adopter of the modern 

farm-to-table culinary repertoire, is not 

just advancing “eating and sourcing local” 

and “eating seasonal,” he is vigorously and 

ingeniously enhancing and developing 

a new region-specific cuisine in the tiny 

kitchen at Kantina on Talbot Street. 

Markovic is London’s reigning culinary 

rock star. 

By the age of seven, Markovic’s 

precocious skills were already developing, 

from cooking and working with his mother 

in the family kitchen in former Yugoslavia. 

His father was a professional cook. A 

Chef Danjiel Markovic: 

Kantina 

combined sense of necessity, economics, 

tradition and culture has infused his 

culinary instinct. 

Markovic’s realm is a scratch kitchen, 

and all items are made in-house and by 

hand. The menu selections are thoughtprovoking 

riffs on iconic cuisines imbued 

with contemporary techniques and quality 

ingredients. Markovic’s talents so far have 

been underappreciated, and he is in the 

rarified company of a handful of chefs who 

show enormous potential in this part of the 

province. 

After graduating from a culinary high 

school in Belgrade, Markovic entered a 

hotel/culinary college, where gastronomy 

was his main focus. He studied 

and worked at the same time. 

After graduating from college, 

he was hired at the Metropolitan 

Grill in the Hyatt Regency (a 

5-star hotel) in Belgrade as a 

line cook. His natural talent and 

abilities quickly propelled him 

forward. 

At the young age of 25, 

Markovic is already a seasoned 

professional and culinary 

zeitgeist with a big future. Yet, 

Kantina remains one of the 

city’s best-kept secrets.

№ 39 | January/February 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 9 

Beet Potage with Chèvre and Smoked Egg 

1 cup (250 mL) white wine 

1 cup (250 mL) onion, chopped 

1 cup (250 mL) carrots, chopped 

4 cups (1 L) red baby beets, blanched, peeled 

and chopped 

½ cup (125 mL) olive oil 

6 cloves garlic, chopped 

2 lemons, juiced 

6 cups (1.5 L) stock (add more as required) 

½ cup (125 mL) butter 

salt/pepper to taste 

The 

Pristine 

Garnish 

smoked egg 

chèvre 

basil pesto 

1 In large pot, heat olive oil. Add onion and sauté 

until golden brown. 

2 Add garlic, carrots, and salt and pepper to taste. 

Continue to sauté. 

3 Add white wine, reduce. 

4 In same pot, add beets and stock. Cover and 

simmer until beets are tender. 

5 Remove from heat, add butter, lemon 

juice, and seasoning as desired. Blend 

and strain. Consistency of soup should 

be thick (pureed vegetables). 

6 Garnish with smoked egg, chevre, and 

basil pesto. 

live 

462 Cheapside Street (@ Maitland) 

London, Ontario 

519-433-4444 

www.thepristineolive.ca 

Smoked Egg: 

1 Heat woodchips in pan until they 

begin to smoke generously. Place 

hard-boiled egg (peeled) in steamer 

and place on top of pan. Cover and 

remove from heat. Let sit for 2 hours. 

Tip: If Potage is too thick, stir in more 

stock. 

Tasting Bar 

Specializing in real, fresh, certified, Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oils, 

Fused and Infused Olive Oils & Aged White and Dark Balsamic Vinegars 

CERTIFIED FRESH, LABORATORY TESTED & SENSORY EVALUATED 

Proud to be recognized by Tom Mueller, 

author of Extra Virginity - www.truthinoliveoil.com 

in the listing of “Great Olive Oils of the World”



“Happy Ending” Habitual Chocolate Crème Brûlée 

with Coffee Ice Cream 

2 ½ cups (625 mL) cream 

5 egg yolks 

½ cup (125 mL) 74% Peruvian chocolate, chopped 

1/2 cup (125 mL) organic sugar 

Sugar for caramelizing 

Ice cream: 

1 cup (250 mL) 35% cream 

1 cup (250 mL) 2% milk 

1 vanilla bean 

½ cup (125 mL) liquid glucose 

5 egg yolks 

3 tablespoons (40 mL) ground coffee 

¾ cup (175 mL) organic sugar 

Toasted almonds for garnish 

Ice Cream: 

1 In mixer bowl, beat egg yolk and half the sugar 

until mixture becomes foamy. 

2 Add remaining ingredients. 

3 Place mixture in pot and bring to 80°C (176°F), 

stirring constantly. Let cool overnight. 

4 Place in ice cream maker. Store in freezer up to 2 

months. 

Crème Brûlée: 

1 Preheat oven to 160°C (325°F). 

2 In pot, heat cream to 80°C (176°F). 

3 In separate bowl, beat egg yolk and sugar 

together. Add cream and chocolate. Mix well. 

4 Pour mixture in cups and place in baking tray 

with hot water. Water should reach ½ to ¾ up 

crème brûlée cup. 

5 Bake for 30-45 min until mixture sets (slightly 

firm). Remove from oven and allow to cool. 

6 Put about 1 teaspoon (5 mL) sugar on top of 

Dinner Series Invite:FFC 3column_by_4inches crème 06/12/2012 and caramelize 9:48 sugar AMwith Page torch. 6 

7 Garnish with ice cream and toasted almonds. 

Fresh From the Field: 

A Farmers Feed Cities Event Series 

Back by popular demand, the highly anticipated Farmers Feed 

Cities event series returns to London for the second year. 

With a new year comes new resolutions. Farmers Feed Cities 

and Garlic’s of London are coming together to help you keep 

those ‘local, healthy eating’ resolutions without sacrificing farm 

fresh flavour. Join us for an evening of elegant cuisine as we 

celebrate Ontario agriculture with the farmers that supply the 

deliciously local seasonal ingredients. 

Garlic’s of London 

481 Richmond Street 


Monday, January 21, 2013 

5:30 p.m. – 9 p.m. 

Call Garlic’s at (519)432-4092 to reserve your table — $40 per person 

Cocktail to accompany dinner served courtesy of:


Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef Chad Steward 

Speaking of big futures, the 

collaborative gastronomic vision 

of Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef 

Chad Steward is influenced by a 

strong commitment to advancing 

the economic, ecological and 

social values of our local culinary 

and agricultural communities. 

Both chefs were mentored by 

culinary gymnast and chef/ 

educator Wade Fitzgerald. 

Steward and Fevens breathe new 

energy into Garlic’s monthly 

menus to reflect high-quality 

seasonal availability and a 

system of farmers and producers 

that provide flawless patriotic 

ingredients. 

Stewart’s and Fevens’ menus 

are a synergetic exercise. 

Stewart is the creative one and Fevens 

is more practical. Fevens and Stewart 

recognize that provenance and direct 

farmer relationships have become 

Chef Joshua Fevens (left) and Chef Chad Steward: Garlic’s of London 

instrumental to the restaurant’s success 

and have helped to cement their own 

culinary reputations. Stewart and Fevens 

are at the top of their game. 

Recipes on following page. 

JAN 17 TH TO FEB 3 RD 

The Blizzard Edition 2013 

”Get a babysitter and call a cab... for tonight we live it up!” 

INDULGE IN A 3-COURSE 

MEAL 

Lunch & Dinner 

$ 

15, $ 20, $ 25, $ 30 or $ 35 

per person 

LondonLicious.ca 

see website for all locations and menus 

At Nearly 

40 

Restaurants 

Brought to 

you by:



DelMac Farms Rack of Lamb 

with Gratin Potato, Glazed Beets, Swiss Chard, and Red Wine Reduction 

1–2 pounds (½ to 1 Kg) rack of lamb — trimmed, 

frenched, and individually removed from rack. 

Marinate with fresh chopped garlic, rosemary and 

olive oil (this can be done 2 hours prior to cooking). 

Potato Gratin: 

2 lb. (1 Kg) Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled 

3 cups (1.5 L) whipping or heavy cream 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) kosher salt 

1/8 teaspoon (0.5 mL) freshly ground black pepper 

Generous pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 

2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 

¾ cup (175 mL) finely shredded Gruyere or aged 

cheddar 

Glazed Beets 

2 pounds (1 Kg) red beets 

2 tablespoons (25 mL) sugar 

2 teaspoons (10 mL) red wine vinegar 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt 

1 Remove stem and bottoms of beets, rinse well 

and bring to boil with remaining ingredients 

until fork-tender. Once cooked all the way 

through, strain and peel while they are still 

warm, using a cloth or tea towel. Cut into large 

chunks and set aside. 

2 Once ready to prepare dish, heat beets in 

medium-high nonstick pan with a tablespoon 

(15 mL) of olive oil, nub of butter, and sugar or 

honey, salt and pepper. 

Swiss Chard 

1 large bunch of fresh Swiss chard 

1 small clove garlic, sliced 

2 tablespoons (25 mL) olive oil 

2 tablespoons (25 mL) water 

Pinch of dried crushed red pepper 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) butter 

Salt 

1 Heat the oven to 400°F. Using a very sharp knife 

or a mandolin, carefully cut the potatoes into 

1/8-inch slices (no thicker). 

2 Put the potatoes into a large heavy-based 

saucepan and add the cream, salt, pepper, 

nutmeg, and garlic. Cook the mixture over 

medium-high heat until the cream is boiling, 

stirring occasionally (very gently with a rubber 

spatula so you don’t break up the slices). 

3 When the cream boils, pour the mixture into a 

2-½- or 3-quart baking dish. If you don’t want a 

tender but garlicky surprise mouthful, remove 

and discard the garlic cloves. Shake the dish a 

bit to let the slices settle and then sprinkle the 

surface with the cheese. 

4 Bake in the hot oven until the top is a deep 

golden brown, the cream has thickened, and the 

potatoes are extremely tender when pierced 

with a knife, about 40 minutes. Don’t worry if the 

dish looks too liquid at this point; it will set up as 

it cools a bit. Before serving, let the potatoes cool 

until they’re very warm but not hot (at least 15 

minutes), or serve them at room temperature. 

1 Rinse out the Swiss chard leaves thoroughly. 

Remove the toughest third of the stalk and 

discard or save for another recipe. 

2 Heat a saucepan on a medium-heat setting, 

add olive oil, a few small slices of garlic and 

the crushed red pepper. Sauté for about one 

minute. Add the Swiss chard leaves. Cover. 

Check after about 5 minutes. If it looks dry, 

add a couple tablespoons of water. 

3 Flip the leaves over in the pan, so that what was 

on the bottom is now on the top. Cover again. 

Check for doneness after another 5 minutes 

(remove a piece and taste it). 

4 Add salt to taste, and a small amount of butter. 

Remove the Swiss chard to a serving dish. 

Red wine reduction 

Olive oil for coating the pan 

¼ cup (50 mL) shallots, minced 

½ cup (125 mL) red wine 

½ cup (125 mL) beef stock 

2 tablespoons (25 mL) butter, to taste 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) rosemary, chopped, optional 

1 In a sauté pan, over medium-high heat, add 

enough olive oil to coat the pan. Add the 

shallots and cook until translucent. 

2 Add the red wine and stock and reduce by half.* 

3 Add the butter and chopped rosemary. 

Tip: If you would like a smoother sauce, you can 

strain the shallots out at this point then return 

to the pan and add the butter and rosemary.


Chef Alicia Hartley 

Alicia Hartley is the head chef at Blu Duby. 

The restaurant’s tagline is “A remarkable 

experience designed to accommodate 

every budget.” The result is a streamlined 

operation with a recession-friendly gourmet 

menu that appeals to a broad demographic. 

Hartley prepares almost everything 

in-house from scratch. Earlier in the 

year, at the Onyx Supper Club, her menu 

combined international classics with a 

Honourable Mention 

Chef Alicia Hartley: 

Blu Duby 

modern Hungarian twist imbued with 

contemporary farm-to-table ideals. 

Hartley is a native of Guyana, the 

home of classic fusion cuisine, and 

although she immigrated to Canada at 

age thirteen, her background influences 

her cooking. Hartley’s culinary approach 

is both instinctual and thoughtful. She 

is a proponent of combining ingredients 

from various cuisines and regions with 

contemporary ideas. Hartley is known 

to ramp up the spice quotient, which she 

does to great effect. She credits the Asian 

influence in her cooking repertoire to her 

mother, who is part Chinese. Hartley is 

a dedicated culinary professional on her 

way up. 

Bryan Lavery is a well-known chef, culinary activist 

and writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, 

consulting, and advisory roles with various culinary businesses 

and initiatives. 

Alicia’s Seafood Cakes 

Serves 8 

0.75 pound (350 g) assorted seafood (use crab, 

salmon, haddock, shrimp & scallops) 

4 eggs 

1 ½ cups (375 mL) potato flakes 

¼ cup (50 mL) chopped dill 

2 tsp (25-30 mL) diced red onion 

Salt and pepper mixture to taste 

1 Dice seafood (set aside 3 oz salmon prior to 

dicing). Mix diced seafood, onion, dill, salt and 

pepper. 

2 Blend 3ounces (90 g) of salmon and eggs in 

a food processor. Add the egg and salmon 

mousse to the diced seafood mixture. 

3 Slowly stir in potato flakes until mixture can 

form patties. Divide mixture into 16 2oz cakes. 

4 In a very hot oven-safe pan, place cakes into a 

400°F oven for 1 ½ minutes. Flip and continue to 

cook for 2 more minutes. 

Lemon and Horseradish Aioli: 

1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise 

2 lemons, both juice and zest 

3 tablespoons (40 mL) freshly grated horseradish 

Salt and pepper to taste 

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix 

thoroughly. 

» Local Artisan Cheeses 

and Full Line Dairy. 

» Niche, Gluten-free and 

Organic product lines. 

Established in 1994, we are a 

food service distributor that 

provides exceptional products 

exclusively to the industry. 

(519) 457-7884 


www.forestcitydistribution.com 

info@forestcitydistribution.com



restaurants 

Always Inn Season 

at Avenue Dining and the Idlewyld Inn, in London 

By bryan lavery 

Photography by Steve Grimes 

Hotelier Marcel Butchey was born 

and raised in London, Ontario. 

His hospitality career began 

at a variety of private clubs 

throughout Ontario before transitioning 

into a career in the hotel industry starting 

with the Fairmont Royal York. 

With a BA from Western 

University, a diploma in 

hospitality management 

from George Brown College 

in Toronto, MBA from Ecole 

Hoteliere de Lausanne, 

Butchey spent nearly 

three years in Switzerland 

before spending a year in 

the Middle East. When 

he decided to return 

“home” he had spent over 

a decade abroad where he 

developed a wide range of 

competencies and a high 

standard of excellence and 

innovation in his profession. 

Butchey saw immense 

potential in the threestorey 

grand Victorian-style 

mansion, built for former 

London mayor Charles 

Hyman in 1878. The hotel, 

nestled in London’s quiet 

Old South neighbourhood 

was the residence of choice 

when Sir John A. Macdonald 

visited the city. 

Former owners, John 

and Christine Kropp, put 

the property on the market 

and Butchey made an offer 

that was accepted in May 

2011. He converted five ground-floor suites 

into offices, dining space and conference 

rooms. Wireless Internet was also installed 

throughout most of the building, making 

the Idlewyld a more striking alternative for 

Hotelier Marcel Butchey has owned 

the historic Idlewyld since May 2011.


business and corporate events. 

Workers refurbished the 

bathrooms in the hotel’s remaining 

suites. With unique furnishings, 

window treatments and gleaming 

exotic woods and other amenities 

the Idlewyld is a step across the 

threshold of a grander era. Rooms 

have been fitted with flat-screen 

televisions, the antique armoires 

and desks remain, maintaining the 

elegant ambience combined with a 

touch of the contemporary. 

Idlewyld offers 19 guest rooms, 

each uniquely decorated to 

replicate the Inn’s idiosyncratic 

charm. “Each room is distinctive. 

All of the rooms look completely 

different,” Butchey tells me. The 

historic Idlewyld has sustained 

its air of grandeur for over a 

century. What started out as a 

private residence in the Victorian 

era has evolved into London’s 

premier boutique hotel, boasting 

membership to organizations 

such as Distinguished Inns of 

North America and is a member of 

Ontario’s Finest Inns. 

When Marcel Butchey became 

the hotelier he rebranded the Inn’s 

Marcel Butchey and his Executive Chef Julie Glaysher (above) 

share a commitment the Avenue Dining will provide guests with 

a culinary experience that is both sophisticated and passionate 

— true gourmet dining. Chef Glaysher guides a strong group of 

kitchen professionals (below).


№ 38 | November/December 2012 

Executive Chef Julie Glayshers’ passion for food translates into innovative 

cuisine that showcases local, seasonal and exceptional ingredients for 

Idlewyld’s discerning diners. 

restaurant as Avenue 

Dining. The restaurant is 

a reflection of the casual 

elegance that the Idlewyld 

has built its reputation 

around. The dining room 

is clean, elegant and 

unpretentious combined 

with professional service 

and top-drawer cuisine. 

Executive Chef Julie 

Glayshers’ passion for food 

translates into innovative 

cuisine that showcases local, 

seasonal and exceptional 

ingredients for Idlewyld’s 

discerning diners. 

Many hoteliers fight the perception 

that their establishments are for the 

exclusivity of out-of-town guests. 

Consistently named one of London’s 

most beautiful and unique restaurants, 

Avenue Dining has become one of the 

locals’ jealously guarded secrets — a true 

“hidden gem” in the heart of London’s 

Old South Village. Butchey and Glaysher 

create a culinary experience that is both 

sophisticated and passionate. This is true 

gourmet dining. 

There is an abiding air of efficiency 

and professionalism in the roomy and 

comfortable dining room. One evening, 

the waiter, Brian, wields his crumber with 

deftness and precision discretely across the 

white linen table cloth several times during 

an epicurean tour de force. 

A torchon of Foie Gras (a 

controversial but popular 

and accepted delicacy in 

French gastronomy) is 

decadent, subtle, buttery 

and rich and served 

with a trio of thick Duck 

Prosciutto slices, Cranberry 

Conserve, Cognac and 

Flat Bread is indulgent. 

The plating is simple but 

visually stunning with a 

pleasing geometry. 

A hands-down winning 

appetizer of Crab Globe 

and Chorizo tucked into 

a pungent pool of smoked 

paprika, butter and capers, 

packs a wallop of deep-sea 

flavour.


Perfectly seared Pork Belly with 

Apple Terrine is supremely satisfying 

and when Chef combines it with 

chestnuts, maple and cinnamon it 

becomes a patriotic reflection of the 

seasonality of the menu’s offerings. 

Deconstructed Lobster Ravioli 

with Champagne, butter, parsley and 

preserved lemon arrives at the table 

looking like some exotic sea creature 

made of layers of fresh house-made 

pasta. Thick chunks of butter poached 

meaty lobster elevate this dish to 

nirvana. Glaysher knows how to cook 

both seafood and fish and a seriously 

delicious Filet of Pickerel is served 

perfectly with little embellishment and 

an addictively crisp skin. 

Beef Rib-Eye Salad with Horseradish 

Dressing, Peppers and Spinach is a 

sure fire hit at lunch. Other lunch items 

are equally well-prepared. The wine 

list is well-chosen from an exceptional 

wine cellar. 

The beautifully manicured grounds, 

front verandah and elegant ambiance of 

the Garden Courtyard create a welcome 

retreat for locals and travellers alike. 

Avenue serves breakfast, lunch, 

dinner and a Sunday brunch. There 

are many venue choices available for 

For three seasons, the beautifully manicured 

grounds, inviting front verandah and elegant 

ambiance of the Garden Courtyard — one of 

the finest spots for al fresco dining in London — 

create a welcome retreat for guests.



private dining, weddings, receptions and events. 

If you are thinking of tying the knot this 

Valentine’s Day, The Elopement package, offered 

by the Idlewyld , is one of the more romantic 

getaways. The hotel supplies the wedding 

officiate, two witnesses, photography, bouquet 

and boutonniere, candlelight dinner for two, 

wedding cake for two, couples massage, wine, 

and a two night stay in a Jacuzzi ensuite with 

breakfast in bed both mornings. 

Avenue Dining / Idlewyld Inn 

36 Grand Avenue, London ON 

519-433-2891 

www.idlewyldinn.com 

breakfast: 7 – 10am monday – friday 

8 – 11am sat, sun & holidays 

lunch: 11 – 3pm monday – friday 

11:30 – 2pm saturday 

dinner: 5pm – 9pm tuesday – saturday 

brunch: 11-2pm on sundays 

afternoon tea: 2pm – 4pm saturday 

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink magazine’s Writer at Large and 

Contributing Editor. He can be reached at blavery@eatdrink.ca 

Avenue Dining is a reflection of the casual elegance that the 

Idlewyld has built its reputation around. The dining room is 

clean, elegant and unpretentious. Richly carved fireplaces 

abound in the inn, with gracious wood trim, embossed 

wallpapers, and stained glass complementing traditional 

furniture. The most fortunate guests are the ones who can tuck 

into one of the well appointed rooms for an overnight stay!


travel 

Exploring Walkerville 

Discover the original Distillery District, in Windsor 

By Jane Antoniak | Photography by Bruce Fyfe 

Have you heard that you can now 

get Canadian Club and coke 

together in a can? Honestly, my 

grandfather would roll over in 

his you know what. Like many Canadian 

families, we’ve been drinking rye and water 

since, well, forever. Okay, there was the rye 

and ginger phase. But Canadian 

Club and coke premixed in can? 

Wonder what Hiram Walker 

would think? He’d probably like 

it if it a meant a profit! 

It was just one of the things 

I picked up while strolling 

through an area of Windsor 

called Walkerville, on the 

Detroit River. It’s the original 

Canadian company town — 

built and owned by Hiram Walker in the 

late 1800s. Walkerville is a step back into 

the time when Al Capone hung out in the 

basement of the corporate headquarters 

and bootleggers ran whisky — Canadian 

Club whisky — over the frozen river into 

Prohibition-era USA. Hiram made oodles of 

The Canadian Club Brand Heritage 

Centre offers informative and enjoyable 

tours and sample Canadian Club liquors. 

The view of the of the building from the 

Detroit River side (above), shows off 

the impressive grounds.


Sample Canadian Club varieties from the Grand 

Heritage Centre overlooking the Detroit River 

dough and our whisky (even though the 

company was founded and owned by an 

American who never lived on our side of 

the river) has become the number-one 

selling rye worldwide. 

FACT: Canadian Club Premium sixyear-old 

whisky has sales of ten million 

cases a year, making up 91 percent of the 

worldwide market share, according to 

Karen Smallwood, our knowledgeable tour 

guide at The Canadian Club Brand Heritage 

Centre. “This is what keeps the lights on,” 

she chuckles as she pours us some bronze 

liquid samplers. We sip and gaze out onto 

the pristine grounds and the Detroit River 

while surrounded by wood and marble in 

the very rooms where Capone and Walker 

did business. It’s something out of Mad 

Men crossed with Boardwalk Empire. The 

Americans are the biggest buyers of CC, 

followed by us, and then the Japanese. 

Smallwood says she gets many Japanese 

tourists who come all the way to Windsor just 

to soak in the Canadian Club experience. 

FACT: “Every drop is made here, bottled 

here and shipped worldwide, except for the 

US-bound rye, which has to be bottled in 


the US so we ship it to Illinois for bottling,” 

explains Smallwood. 

FACT: The historic Heritage Centre 

(which is now a popular site for weddings 

and special events) was built for $100,000 

in 1894 when a bottle of whisky was 6 

cents. Basically, Hiram was loaded. And 

he made it all on booze, the American 

dream story, rising from humble grocer 

to whisky maker, marrying well, and 

buying American dollars low then selling 

them high. He built “The Whisky Palace” 

in Italian Renaissance Style, importing 

marble from all over the world. 

FACT: You can buy an original tenement 

row house in Walkerville for $134,000. And 

it’s nice. Hiram built and owned the entire 

town, and “the benevolent dictator” was a 

stickler for quality. “It was like winning the 

lottery to get a job here,” says Smallwood. 

While you owed your soul to the company 

store, you did have a decent brick house 

with running water, paved roads, wood 

delivered, and your sidewalk shovelled. 

Your kids went to the Hiram-built school, 

and the town had police, fire and even a 

Hiram-built bank. His trademark red brick 

is impressive today as you stroll Chilver 

and Wynadotte streets, eyeing the homes of 

past Walker executives and workers alike. 

The former offices of the Walkers are part of the 

tour of the historic Canadian Club Brand Centre


Walkermole offers samples 

from a list of more than 

50 tequilas. A flight of 

tequilas (right) is a great 

way to sample and enjoy 

the smooth flavours. 

The small yet vibrant shopping area in Walkerville 

features historic buildings that are now restaurants, 

vintage clothing shops and pubs. Since we were in 

Windsor, we had to have wood-fired pizza, which was 

Walkerville Brewery reopened this 

past fall and offers a tasting room and 

sales of its craft beers by the glass or in 

growlers to take home. 

FUN, FITNESS, FASHION, FOOD, WINE & SHOPPING! 

LONDON CONVENTION CENTRE 

March 23 & 24, 2013 

Limited exhibitor spots remain open - book now! 

Join us at the Taste of Huron cooking stage presented by eatdrink magazine all weekend long! 

SAVETHEDATE


Historic homes line the streets in 

Walkerville, the town built and owned 

by Hiram Walker for his employees. 

delivered, along with gigantic meatballs 

and arancini di Riso, seafood soup and 

calamari, from Vito’s (www.vitospizzeria. 

net). “You can’t lose on a pizza here in 

Windsor,” says Pina Ciotoli, a bubbly 

ambassador of the region with her brother 

Adriano. Together they own and operate 

Windsoreats.com and offer walking tours 


of Walkerville. When we complained of 

being stuffed by giant meatballs at lunch, 

Pina obliged by showing us the haunts 

of Walkerville on foot, including the 

Victoria Tavern. Pina and Adriano grew 

up in Walkerville, and their love for the 

area is evident. Adriano had his wedding 

at Willistead Manor, a 36-room mansion 

and former home of Hiram’s son (the only 

Walker to actually live in Canada). “There’s 

such a sense of depth to this area, I just love 

it,” says Pina proudly. 

Meanwhile, Chris Ryan of Walkerville 

Brewery (www.walkervillebrewery.com) 

has made something old new again. Ryan, 

a former beer rep, has revitalized an old 

Walker business with the relaunch this past 

fall of the brewery. They are making and 

selling on-site a lager and a pilsner, plus 

some seasonal beers. He hopes to bring on 

an IPA, unfiltered beer and a summer brew 

in 2013. Housed in a 1928 former Walker 

warehouse, the brewery has a tasting 

room and it’s fun to bring home a growler. 

(Growlers are half-gallon glass bottles that 

resemble moonshine jugs.) 

If you’re still thirsty after a day of rye and 

beer, you can head over to Walkermole for 

some tequila and Mexican cuisine. Operated 

by the enthusiastic Brandon Bedard, it is here 

that you can order from a list of more than 50 

tequilas, including a taste of Clase Azul Extra 

Anejo for $195 a shot. But this is for sipping, 

not shooting. A flight of tequila is a great way 

The Seneca Lake Wine Trail 

near Atwater Estate Vineyards 

The beautiful countryside of Essex County


Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Windsor is famous 

for wood fired oven 

pizza and Walkerville 

has its own at Vito’s 

Pizzeria. Also highly 

recommended: Vito’s 

gigantic meatballs and 

arancini di Riso. 

Reserve Now for 

Valentine’s 

Day! 

February 14 

to sample and 

enjoy the smooth 

flavours alongside 

some queso fundido and flavourful soups, 

steak and fish tacos. 

After a boozy day in Walkerville, rather 

than drive home, it’s ideal to stroll over 

to Ye Old Walkerville B&B, where Joyce 

and Larry Duffield provide bedrooms 

with private baths, lots of stories about 

their days working for Canadian foreign 

services, and an impressive breakfast 

including Essex county apple cider and a 

smoked salmon/bagel strata. 

Walkerville is an easy two-hour drive 

from London and a fun getaway. On the 

way home, you may want to venture off 

the 401 and onto the EPIC wine trail (Essex 

Pelee Island Coast, www.epicwineries. 

com), where new and visually attractive 

wineries such as Coopers Hawk and Oxley 

Estate are enthusiastically greeting visitors 

with new tasting rooms and dining options. 

But that will be another story! 

Jane Antoniak is a food travel writer for eatdrink who 

enjoys pairing food, drinks and history. She operates Saucy: Meats & 

So Much More, as well as a communications company in London. 

Bruce Fyfe is a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink 

who likes to take a break from his day job as assistant librarian at 

Weldon, Western University, to embark upon culinary adventures. 

A Strathroy Tradition 

• Sunday Brunch 

• Family Dinners 

• Fully Licensed by LLBO 

• Banquet & Wedding Packages Available 

• Take-Out & Delivery Available (ask for details) 

• Family Owned & Operated 

Private Meeting & Banquet rooms 

for groups up to 100 

NEW LOCATION 

28537 Centre Road, Strathroy 

just off Hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 & Second St. 

519-245-5400 

www.amys-restaurant.com



Dine 

• Shop • Stay • Play 

Enjoy Ontario’s West Coast 

Reserve Now 

for 

Valentine’s 

Day! 

Serving Lunch 

and Dinner 

Seasonal Hours 

Always Closed Monday 

Closed All of January 

Reservations 

Recommended 

Robbie Burns Theme Dinner 

Friday, February 1st 

519.238.6224 

42 Ontario St. S., 

Grand Bend 

Entertain. Celebrate. Escape. 

Eddington’s occupies the 

original Carling homestead, 

built in the 1870s. 

“Evidence that you don’t 

have to be in a big city 

to create great things!” 

— The Globe & Mail 

Come in and get fed up! 

NEW! 

Sunday Breakfast Buffet 

and Omelette Bar. 

And try our NEW 

½-pound Bagel Burger! 

ON THE SQUARE 

Open 7am - 4pm, 7 days a week • 68 Courthouse Square, Goderich


“Farming garlic 

goodness since 1998.” 

Visit www.thegarlicbox.com 

for GREAT recipes using the 

Olive Tapenade made with garlic ... and MORE! 

toll free 1.888.772.9994 • Hensall, ON 

Available at Jill’s Table, Kingsmills, Remark Fresh Market & Bradshaws (Stratford) 

Roasts | Chops & Steaks | Tenderloin | Ribs | Sausage | Bacon & More! 

Trust... 

Taste... 

Quality... 

Artisan-crafted charcuterie, 

perfect for après ski, 

cozy nights at home 

and Valentine's Day! 

Design Your Own Protein Pack! 

100% Pure Pork is a lean protein option 

A NUTRITION POWERHOUSE 

NO TRANSFATS 

LOW IN SODIUM 

GLUTEN FREE 

NO MSG 

RESTORES BODY TISSUES 

FEEL FULLER LONGER 

Online ordering with FREE DELIVERY 

www.thewholepig.ca 

Phone Orders: 519-851-3327 

OR Phone Orders: 519-851-3327 

Metzger Meats are now 

available in London! 

Visit Saucy: Meats & So Much More 

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market 

on Saturdays! 

Open six days a week. 

Hensall, Ontario 

Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London. 

www.metzgermeats.com 

519-262-3130 

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry 

Specialty European Meat Products



spotlight 

Bayleys on Ice 

Engineering the Ice Industry at Iceculture in Hensall 

By Christie Massé 

The Bayley family of Hensall, 

Ontario, has brought the family 

business a long way since its 

inception eight years ago. Now 

recognized internationally as one of 

the leading companies in ice sculpture 

innovation, Iceculture Inc. is providing 

divine ice creations for events across the 

globe, landing Hensall on the industry 

map. The company has created a trifecta of 

professionalism: science and engineering, 

business management and customer service, 

and fine art and design collide, streamlining 

the overall strength of their services. 

A truly unique business, Iceculture 

offers much more than just sculptures. 

With décor pieces such as ice bars, drink 

displays, beaded curtains, chandeliers, 

vases, candles, glasses, and menus, to name 

a few, events acquire a new and memorable 

level of distinctiveness and extravagance. 

Needless to say, weddings, food shows, and 

corporate events are big business for this 

company. They also work closely alongside 

chefs to design and offer pieces that are now 

incorporated into food presentation and 

buffet displays. Julian Bayley explains, “If 

there is a trend, we have made a determined 

effort to become an integral part of food 

presentation.” Where the sculpture used 

to be a freestanding add-on if the budget 

allowed, it is now a vessel for highlighting 

food and drink, making presentation more 

luxurious than ever. 

Winners of many awards, the Iceculture 

staff have earned their accolades, as 

they’ve stayed on the cutting edge 

with innovating and upgrading, from 

production design to delivery. Not only 

have their technical innovations made 

their pieces a desired commodity, but also 

the science and technology behind those 

pieces have become sought-after by others 

in the industry, making Iceculture an 

international forerunner in their field. 

With a well-rounded view of industry 

needs, they know it is not just about the piece, 

it is about the process, including the logistics


Iceculture creates both incredible 

ice sculptures, such as a twelvefoot 

streetcar, below, as well 

as spectacular ice bars. From 

Hensall, just north of London, 

they have shipped ice lounges to 

New Delhi and Calcutta, India, 

and are working on an ice lounge/ 

restaurant in Saudi Arabia! 

of delivery and setup. Julian explains the 

challenge the company faces at times with 

this aspect, after having recently built an ice 

castle for Walt Disney in Times Square, NYC. 

“The challenges were huge — a seven-hour 

window to build the castle and a very tight 

space to work in were two major hurdles. We 

then had to remove the castle just six hours 

later to fit in with the Disney marketing 

scheme.” A feat found difficult enough 

with standard construction 

materials, let alone with a 

medium that melts! 

Sculptures and event 

décor are just the tip of the 

iceberg for Iceculture these 

days. Julian explains that the 

company has just completed 

two ice lounges in India (in 

New Delhi and Calcutta), 

and is currently working on 

an ice lounge/restaurant 

in Saudi Arabia and one 

in Boston. Even with this 

international market drawing 

their business, the Bayley 

family continues to loyally 

satisfy their home market 

of Southwestern Ontario 

with all their custom ice 

sculpture and construction 

visions and desires. The 

company website, well 

worth browsing, provides 

numerous photographs 

of their breathtaking 

work. If you are looking 

for something to heighten 

the level of creativity and 

luxury at your next event, 

take advantage of this local 

gem and consider your ice 

options. 

Iceculture Inc. 

81 Brock Street, Hensall, ON 

519-262-3500 

www.iceculture.com 

CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a Stratford Chefs School graduate and 

a local professional pastry chef. For inquiry or consultation call 

519-494-1061.


Stratford is 

more than 

great theatre. 


Stratford is 

more than 

great theatre. 

Ontario focus. European Style. 

INN | RESTAURANT 

Chef-inspired artisanal 

food and drink featuring 

local seasonal cuisine, 

Ontario-focused wines & 

house-infused cocktails. 

BRUNCH • LUNCH • DINNER • EVENTS 

104 Ontario Street, Stratford 

519.271.9202 www.mercerhall.com


118 Ontario St., Stratford 

519-814-9439 

themilkywhey.ca 

Eat. Drink. 

Helping you entertain in 

style for over 115 years. 

Beautiful made-to-order gift baskets 

are available for the foodies on your list!



restaurants 

Enjoying a Taste of Tweet Success 

at The Early Bird diner, in London 

By Sue Sutherland Wood 

If you haven’t already noticed The Early 

Bird restaurant and its adjoining sister, 

The Nite Owl Upscale Rock Lounge, 

tucked tidily into Talbot Street near 

King, you’ve probably heard about them. 

Especially since the diner’s local popularity 

recently inspired a visit from “You Gotta Eat 

Here!” of Food Network. 

Once you step inside, The Early Bird’s 

décor is a visual mash-up of thoughtful 

homage, linking “Mad Men” references 

to urban-cool bands like The Hold Steady 

— no random array of vintage Coke 

bottles and James Dean here. A block of 

vinyl records mounted on the wall meets 

stainless steel, and the 

clean, simple booth seating 

capacity is only about 35, 

lending a Chicago, hole-inthe-wall 

feeling. Even the 

four Elvises who preside 

over diners are self-assured 

in their customized Kiss 

makeup — they’re funky 

and they know it. 

The musical references are no surprise, 

given that co-owners Chef Justin Wolfe 

and business-savvy brother Gregg are 

also musicians and continue to maintain 

a passion for the industry. Justin’s band 

Photo courtesy Andrew Dobson www.dobbernationloves.com 

The musically inspired Early Bird interior features four Elvises in Kiss makeup — they’re funky and they know it


toured extensively and 

successfully worldwide, 

and as a result of that 

he experienced many 

food influences that he 

determined to put his own 

spin on one day. 

“It’s true that you really 

appreciate a good breakfast 

when you’re on the road 

away from home,” Justin 

laughs. “I wanted to 

recreate that comfort-food 

feel with a kind of big-city, 

speak-easy feeling. I knew a 

diner could work well with 

the bar angle, too.” 

This has proved to be an 

understatement. Although 

Justin and Gregg launched 

The Nite Owl just under 

three years ago, they only 

opened the adjoining Early 

Bird ten months ago, when 

the space presented itself. 

Already there is a renovation in progress, 

which will open up more of the diner into 

the front of the bar. (A trial patio seating 

in the summer essentially doubled their 

capacity). In the meantime, food stats are 

impressive: 1,000 perogies every week, 

500 bacon-wrapped dill pickles, a myriad 

of meats prepped including brisket, pork 

shoulder and duck, many of which will 

be treated to a high-maintenance combo 

of curing, brining, smoking, grinding, or 

being made into sausage 

— all in-house. The Early 

Bird’s own smoked meat 

takes days to prepare 

from start to finish, but 

is extremely popular and 

every bit as succulent as 

its Montreal counterparts. 

Dips — including the 

BBQ sauce — are also 

homemade. 

Popular dishes include 

the awe-inspiringly huge 

TurduckKen sandwich, 

Poutine Perogies nestled 

in swooningly dark gravy, 

and an architectural feat 

called the Pancake Stacker, 

which alternates strata of 

bacon and potato hash and 

The Early Bird recently welcomed the Food Network 

crew from “You Gotta Eat Here” to their diner. Above, 

Early Bird co-owner Justin Wolfe shares a laugh in the 

kitchen with the TV show’s host John Catucci. Below, the 

entire crew raises a glass in appreciation for their visit. 

An air date is not scheduled yet as we go to press, but 

look for the episode in a few months’ time. 

wears a crown of fried egg. Tender braised 

pieces of duck are served as sliders, and a 

variety of homemade soups are available to 

add heft. No wonder there are often lineups 

outside the door, and interestingly, Justin


Bacon Fried Pickles 


proudly points out that 

The Bird has a growing 

fan base with London’s 

seniors. 

Rave reviews poured 

in to the Food Network, 

nominating the Early Bird 

as one to watch, and social 

media networks Twitter 

and Facebook have been 

full of praise for the 

restaurant since it opened 

—“The Bird is the word!” 

being a common shoutout. 

The Food Network team 

from the hit series “You 

Gotta Eat Here” recently 

came to town with host 

John Catucci for a two-day 

filming and a mission to 

find London’s outstanding 

comfort food. 

On day one, Catucci 

— who is highly likable, 

charming and funny — 

comes directly into the 

Early Bird kitchen and 

gets stuck in. He seems 

The Pulled Pork Sandwich: spice rubbed and smoked 

pork shoulder tossed in housemade BBQ sauce, topped 

with coleslaw on a grilled kaiser. Served with roasted 

potatoes and a garden salad 

The Cheesus Crust Pizza: mozzarella, cheddar, feta and 

thyme


Photos this page courtesy Andrew Dobson www.dobbernationloves.com 

Roasted Beet and Arugula Salad: Ovenroasted beets 

and fresh strawberry, tossed with local arugula, crisp 

pancetta, chevre cheese and house vinaigrette 

genuinely curious about how everything 

comes together, repeating what he is told 

to be sure he understands, and twining 

bacon around more than a few dill pickles 

till he’s mastered the technique. (He’s 

cheerful with it though, and despite the 

early hour, he’s prone to bursts of random, 

falsetto scatting in between takes!) From 

the pickles, he progresses to massaging a 

turkey breast, and it’s clear 

he’s up for any culinary 

challenge. It’s equally clear 

that he has seen a lot of food 

in this quest across Canada, 

but he has only good things 

to say about The Early Bird. 

“First of all, it’s the 

honesty Justin and Gregg 

bring,” Catucci explains 

between takes. “It shines 

through and it’s real. You 

can taste the difference with 

this kind of care, and people 

appreciate that. Customers 

are made to feel like family. 

Plus, Justin’s bringing the 

‘cool factor’ to London.” 

He also notes that people are, on the 

whole, much more discriminating now 

— they don’t want to eat greasy, reheated 

food, and they know the difference. 

The Early Bird is offering quality, local 

ingredients, king-sized portions, and a 

particularly distinct menu for extremely 

reasonable prices. If Facebook is anything 

to go by, the film shoot was a huge success, 

and there’s a definite zip of excitement. 

John shrugs. “When you wake up smelling 

bacon, it’s hopeful. It’s gonna be a good 

day. A great day even. Maybe some people 

feel like that if they wake up to boiling kale, 

but really? I don’t think so.” 

The Early Bird 

355 Talbot St., London 

519-439-6483 

www.facebook.com/EarlyBirdLondon 

hours of operation (subject to change) 

monday: 11am-3pm 

tuesday & wednesday: 11am-midnight 

thursday: 11am-2am 

friday and saturday: 11am – 3am 

sunday: 11am-9pm 

Sue Sutherland Wood is a freelance writer who also 

works in the London Public Library system. She lives in London with 

her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs and cats.Read 

more of Sue’s work at www.womenspost.ca 

The TurduckKen Style Club: Smoked turkey, panko fried chicken, duck 

bacon, hot house tomato, mixed greens and maple syrup




Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar 

Tasting Bars 

By bryan lavery 

W 

ithout question, the best olive 

oil is extra virgin. It is actually 

juice pressed from tree-ripened 

olives, with no additives. The 

elementary procedure for making olive oil 

has remained the same for thousands of 

years: harvest the olives at precisely the right 

time, crush them into paste, separate the 

solids from the liquid, and further separate 

the vegetable water from oil. The method of 

extraction has a distinct effect on the flavour 

and ultimate quality of olive oil. 

Authentic balsamicos are rich, glossy, 

and deep brown in colour, and they possess 

a complex flavour profile that combines 

the natural sweet and sour elements of the 

cooked grapes. There are also hints of flavour 

from the wood of a battery of successive 

barrels of smaller sizes. I have tasted the 

sweet traditional elixir balsamico on trips to 

the attics of Modena. Traditional balsamico 

is aged a minimum of 25 years. 

Olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting 

bars are a relatively new phenomenon in 

North America, and a growing trend for 

discriminating foodies. Unlike typical 

shops where you purchase a bottle of olive 

oil from the shelf, olive oil tasting bars 

offer a more personalized and inter-active 

experience. Customers at tasting bars get a 

complimentary taste test of their product 

first, and can even blend different flavours to 

create customized flavour-infused oils and 

artisan-made balsamic vinegars. 

Typically, the tasting room is lined with 

dozens of 25-litre fustis — special stainlesssteel 

jars with spigots to store olive oil and 

balsamics — with stacks of tasting cups 

beside each tank. Learning how to taste olive 

oil will deepen your appreciation for great 

olive oils. The concept is basically the same 

as wine tasting. While holding the cup in one 

hand, you use your other hand to cover the 

cup while swirling the oil to release its aroma 

and warm it up, then you stick your nose in 

the cup and breathe in, to smell the oil. 

The goal of a tasting bar is to educate 

clients on oils and vinegars and help 

cultivate their palate. Tasting bars offer 

olive oils and balsamic vinegars in dozens 

of flavours, from Meyer lemon, bacon, and 

white truffle to wild mushroom-sage. 

Once you’ve made your decision, the 

bottles are filled from the fusti, corked 

and sealed. 

London now has two olive oil and 

balsamic vinegar tasting bars and 

Stratford one.


Pristine Olive Tasting Bar 

Pristine Olive Tasting Bar is located at the 

corner of Cheapside and Maitland streets, 

in the premises that once housed Sullivan’s 

Meat Market. There’s plenty of room for two 

olive oil bars in town, says owner Jamie 

Griffiths, who enjoys walking first-timers 

through a thorough tasting process. 

Pristine’s supplier, Veronica Foods, is 

credited with opening the first stand-alone 

olive oil and balsamic tasting bar of its 

kind in North America 

in 2006. Now supplying 

over 300 stores, fifteen 

located in Canada, their 

fresh extra virgin olive oils, 

fused and infused olive 

oils, traditional balsamic 

vinegars, and naturally 

flavoured balsamic vinegars 

are all certified for their 

ultra-premium quality. 

Griffiths’ beautifully 

appointed shop offers more 

than 40 different olive oils 

and balsamic vinegars. 

Griffiths is also selling salts, 

spices, rubs and jams. 

The goal at The Pristine 

Olive is to help educate each customer by 

allowing them to experience what highquality 

olive oil should taste like. The 

Pristine Olive Tasting Bar specializes in real, 

fresh, certified, ultra-premium extra virgin 

olive oils. You will always find the unique 

chemistry and harvest/crush date posted on 

each of their extra virgin olive oils. 

Olive Your Favourites 

New to Stratford, Michelle Hern’s Olive 

Your Favourites is a speciality shop offering 

unique and exceptional quality extra 

virgin olive oils from around the world. 

Here you will also find balsamic vinegars 

from Modena, Italy. There’s even mango, 

dark espresso and dark chocolate, and like 

London’s 

Pristine Olive, 

Veronica 

Foods is the 

sole supplier. 

21 York Street, Stratford 

519-508-1757 

www.oliveyourfavourites.com 

Sample and 

taste the 

The 

Pristine 

live 

Tasting Bar 

462 Cheapside Street, London 

519 433 4444 

www.thepristineolive.com 

many varieties they offer, and make a note 

of your favourites, then bottle and seal your 

choices on-site. 

Photo by Jamie Drummond



Olive-Me & Co. 

Olive Me & Co. is independently owned and 

operated by Missy Haggarty, who left a career 

in human resources to open her tasting bar. The 

attractive shop is located in a small plaza at the 

corner of Hyde Park and Gainsborough roads. 

At night the large flashing olive sign has become 

a welcoming beacon. Haggarty loves the village 

feel of Hyde Park. She loves London because 

it has an interesting 

food culture, and she 

talks about the local 

entrepreneurial spirit of 

people like Deb Mackey 

from Pepper Tree Spice 

and Paul Spence from Lo 

Maximo Meats. 

Haggarty, who lived 

in Europe from age 15 

to 25, then moved to 

London from Bancroft 

six years ago, is a lifelong 

aficionado of the olive. 

Before opening her 

shop, she spent two 

years travelling and 

doing intensive market 

research and product development. 

Her business plan includes sourcing 

her products privately from small-batch 

producers in Italy and Greece, as well as 

from other European countries and the 

United States. 

Instrumental to the project, 

Haggarty had an Italian-Canadian 

master craftsmen design and 

handcraft special racks to make the 

tasting bar as authentic as possible. 

Haggarty offers unique extra virgin olive 

oils, balsamic vinegars, spices, and beauty 

products derived from extra virgin olive oils 

570 Hyde Park Road, London 

519-471-OLIV 

www.olivemeco.com 

from around the world. A salad lover, 

she is excited by the wide array of flavours 

in the oils and vinegars designed to splash 

up your cooking and baking. 

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink magazine’s Writer at Large and Contributing Editor. He can be reached at blavery@eatdrink.ca



Crazy about Cocoa Beans 

The hallowed cocoa bean is trending big these days 

By Jill Ellis-worthington 

Terroir has long been the province 

of wine; then coffee lovers hopped 

on the bandwagon. The latest 

commodity to relate the nuances 

of origin with taste and quality is chocolate. 

“Terroir is a tremendous factor,” says 

Dave Cook of Habitual Chocolate Roasters. 

“Chocolate is a deeper commodity; 

it’s a big world 

of cocoa, and it 

tastes different 

depending on 

where it comes 

from. There are 

amazing chocolates 

from all 

over the world.” 

He visits various 

cocoa-producing 

countries 

several 

times each year 

to research the 

best beans to 

sell at his shop 

in the Western 

Fair Market. 

Habitual carries 

15 different 

types of beans 

from countries 

like Madagascar, 

Ghana and other exotic ports, and 

makes four different kinds of chocolate 

with each, providing a varied and delicious 

selection selection for customers. 

Peruvian beans are Cook’s current 

favourite. “I’m a chocophile,” he says, 

laughing. “I love to visit the countries and 

try everything at least once. If I enjoy it, we 

bring it home.” 

Habitual sells only fair trade organic 

chocolate from beans they roast on-site. 

The ground beans are combined with 

sugar, salt, and cocoa butter or powered 

milk to form their popular chocolate bars. 

The market stall also sells novelty bars 

that combine their own chocolate with 

dried and fresh fruit. Cook adds that 

he’s working with local chefs on original 

combos all the time. 

One trend Cook is following now is combining 

his 

freshly made 

chocolate with 

local seasonal 

products, like 

North Shore 

Erie wine. “It’s 

made into a 

reduction and 

combined with 

the chocolate 

to make 

a truffle, so 

when you bite 

into it you get 

a burst of fresh 

Ontario wine.” 

Of course, 

using local 

ingredients is 

a huge trend 

right now in 

the food world, 

and along with 

that goes the push for sustainability. 

According to Kristine Steed of Rheo 

Thompson in Stratford, sustainability 

has become a focus for those in the cocoa 

industry now, as well. “Most of the major 

confectioners are going to be involved 

in this (promoting sustainable growing 

practices),” she explains, adding that 

this was an important topic at a recent 

international conference she attended. 

Groups like The World Cocoa Foundation 

are working with farmers in cocoa-growing


countries, especially along the Ivory 

Coast of Africa, where 70 percent of the 

world’s supply comes from. These farms 

are usually one-person or family-run 

operations. They get help with eco-friendly 

farming practices to minimize disease and 

maximize crop production. Steed says it’s a 

win-win situation because producers gain 

a better quality of life and the buyers gain a 

better quality of product. 


While Steed maintains that Rheo 

Thompson sticks to its core products, like 

the beloved mint smoothies, she says 

that dried fruit, like oranges, raisins and 

apricots, dipped in bittersweet chocolate 

are seasonal favourites in the winter. 

At Harbourtown Fudge in Port Stanley, 

Vicci and Jon Coughlin are cooking up 

some of the most inventive batches of 

fudge around. For example, their Parrot 

The Road to BLISS 

London 

Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut 

745 Waterloo St. 

www.bernardcallebaut.com 

519- 663-9973 

The Chocolate Factory 

Covent Garden Market 

www.thechocolatefactory.ca 

519-284-3572 

Forrat’s Chocolates 

Covent Garden Market 

www.forratschocolates.ca 

519-455-2285 

Forrat’s Chocolates & Lounge 

1304 Commissioners Rd W, Unit 3, 

www.forratschocolates.ca 

519-204-7904 

Habitual Chocolate Roasters 

Western Fair Farmers’ Market 

www.habitualchocolate.com 

519-639-4963 

Purdy’s Chocolates 

White Oaks Mall 

www.purdys.com 

519-681-3278 

Windells Chocolates 

www.windellschocolates.com 

226-236-1980 

Stratford 

Chocolate Barr’s Candies 

136 Ontario Street 

www.chocolatebarrs.com 

519-272-2828 

Rheo Thompson Candies 

55 Albert Street 

www.rheothompson.com 

519-271-6910 

Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory 

10 Downie Street 

www.rockymountainchocolate factory.com 

519-272-2807 

St. Marys 

The Chocolate Factory 

130 King St. 

www.thechocolatefactory.ca 

519-663-5787 

Port Stanley 

Harbourtown Fudge 

205 Main Street 

www.telegraphhouse.com 

519-782-3006 

Goderich 

Cravings 

166 Courthouse Square 

519-524-7986 

Exeter 

Sugar & Spice 

www.sugarandspicechocolates.ca 

395 Main St. 

519-235-1211 

Factory, Exeter, 519-235-1283 

Strathroy 

Sugar & Spice 

www.sugarandspicechocolates.ca 

626 Victoria St. 

519-245-9638


www.eatdrink.ca 39 

cocoa-based drinks to appease their gods, 

current trends should ensure that there’s 

always a steady supply of these tasty beans 

to enjoy in new and different ways. 

JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON is a freelance writer and chief 

communicator for Write.On Communication Services International 

(www.writedoton.com). 

Bay Fudge combines Parrot Bay Rum with 

coconut and dark chocolate, Cappuccino 

Cream Fudge is made with Las Chicas 

del Café Espresso, Whisky Fudge uses a 

popular Ontario-produced whisky as the 

key ingredient, and Candied Garlic is a key 

ingredient in the Vanilla Cream Fudge. 

This is the latest effort from the duo 

who made their local culinary reputation 

cooking up amazing breakfast dishes 

and homemade pies at Billy’s Deli, and 

advanced that reputation serving the area’s 

best perch and eggs benedict at their B&B, 

Telegraph House. 

“Port (Stanley) didn’t have a candy shop, 

so we figured a saltwater taffy and fudge 

shop would do really well,” says Vicci. 

Keeping it simple until he masters the art 

of chocolate, “Jon is having fun with handdipped 

chocolate,” she says. “It’s a creative 

venture for Jon. He likes to experiment, like 

making Cabernet chocolate fudge.” 

Though chocolate has been around since 

the ancient Mayans and Aztecs offered 

Girls Night Out 

Valentine 

Soiree 

Bonnie’s ‘Tole’ House 

Unique Handpainted Gifts 

Hand-painted glassware, plates, coffee mugs, f lower vases, 

wood trays, small tables and handmade jewellery 

Saturday 

Feb 2, 2013 

7pm-11pm 

Bellamere Winery 

1260 Gainsborough Rd, 

London 

Tickets: www.windellschocolates.com 

london: 519-951-1777 

www.bonniestolehouse.ca 

Live Music 

Spa Pampering 

Chocolate Lovers 

Dessert Buffet 

Cupcake Candy Bar 

Valentine Loot Bags 

Door Prizes 

Fun with the Girls 

$35 

Also presenting: 

Fun Girly Vendors 

& Pink Cocktail 

Cash Bar



The BUZZ ... new and notable 

Artisanal food is locally-sourced, hand-crafted 

and produced in small batches and, more than 

likely, in a traditional manner. It’s anything 

from cheeses, preserves, honey, olive oil, maple 

syrup, cider, charcuterie and more. There continues to been 

a lot of talk about the artisanal food renaissance — think 

small-batch baking, home-made condiments or bean-to-bar 

chocolate. In the same manner, now hand-crafted bread is 

getting its well-deserved renaissance. 

There’s a new game in town. Well, sort of... Theo 

and Gerda Korthof have opened a second bakery on 

Dundas Street at Ontario across from their location at the 

Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. The 

Artisan Bakery (formerly Flair Bakery) features a full 

complement of European-style pastries and artisanal breads 

like: caramelized sour-walnut and raisin and roasted grain 

sourdough, Klondyke sour potato bread and San Francisco 

black olive and herb. The bakery will also offer a selection of 

homemade pates and duck and pork tourtieres. 864 Dundas 

St; 519-204-9144; artisanbakery@rogers.com 

From Lindsay Todd Reid’s bake kitchen in the cellar 

of his Sebringville home, Lindsay handcrafts small-batch 

scrumptiousness. Lindsay’s Bakery sets up shop on 

Saturdays at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market 

and Sundays at the Slow Food Market in Stratford. 

Alan Mailloux has over 25 years of bread-making 

experience. Mailloux features from-scratch, hand-shaped, 

artisanal and specialty breads made with time and care. Visit 

the Downie Street Bakehouse in Stratford, Western Fair 

and Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, or the Slow 

Food Market in Stratford on Sundays. And for the true bread 

lover, there’s a Bread Club Membership — $200 buys a five 

dollar loaf of bread per week for fifty straight weeks. 388 

Downie Street, Stratford. 

Baking is a calling for Christain Burdan, who is a 

seventh-generation baker, tracing his family’s craftsmanship 

back to 1762. Burdan has tantalized tastebuds in both his 

native Germany and in France before immigrating to Canada. 

Burdan’s breads, rolls and speciality baked items such as 

pretzels from the Red Cat Farm are available from their 

mobile stall at the Masonville Farmers’ Market in season 

and outdoors at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ 

Market for the rest of the year. 

Organic Works Bakery is a stylish bakery and cafe located 

in the heart of SoHo at 222 Wellington Street, south of Horton. 

Owner Peter Cuddy looked far and wide and discovered he


couldn’t find bakers who created this way, so an idea was born. 

Specializing in recipes made with organic, gluten-free, nut-free 

and vegan ingredients that tantalize the palate. 

If you are looking for bread reminiscent of your last 

European vacation, then Penelope Holt’s LOAF is one of the 

finest places for you to purchase bread during the outdoor 

market season. Holt uses wholesome local ingredients, organic 

when possible, and has a strong loyal following for her classic 

“levain.” Covent Garden Farmers Market 

Local culinary maven Keri Patterson tells eatdrink that 

Sweet Lemon Bakery offers strictly vegan (free from eggs, 

dairy and animal bi-products) and gluten-free desserts 

made from scratch using top quality ingredients and without 

refined sugars. The bakery offers delicious creations ranging 

from “cheeze” cake, cupcakes, whoopy-pies and selection of 

raw desserts at its new storefront location at 82 York Street. 

Marvin Rivas continues to fete patrons at his year-old 

Latin American-inspired Che Restobar on Dundas Street at 

Clarence. This chic hot-spot features exposed brick walls, a 

granite bar, and massive light fixtures, proffering authentic 

Latin American fare prepared by Chef German Nunes, a 

native of Peru. The tuna ceviche continues to be one of the 

most outstanding appetizers in the city. The Yucca poutine 

is to die for. Main courses include a delectable chimichurri 

ribeye steak. www.cherestobar.ca 

Luis Rivas opened the popular True Taco in Old East Village 

after perfecting his business model and building a loyal clientele 

at the Western Fair Farmers’ Market. True Taco offers miniature 

gastro fiestas with a menu of family-style recipes. Specialties 

include hand-made tacos prepared with a choice of chorizo, 

pastor, beef barbacoa, or beef tongue, and a selection of spicy 

homemade sauces. The spectacular all-day breakfast of huevos 

rancheros, El Salvadorian pupusas, crafted by the sublime Elsa 

Garca, and Chicken Milanese are all knock-outs. The Guacamole 

alone is worth the trip to True Taco. Rivas is currently building 

bigger premises across the street from his existing restaurant 

and anticipates opening is mid-February. www.truetaco.com 

Saucy: Meats & So Much More, a new shop featuring 

locally-produced and sourced food, has found a home at the 

Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. Saucy is owned 

and operated by Jane Antoniak, eatdrink magazine’s roving 

culinary journalist and social media editor. 

Saucy: Meats & So Much More offers a variety of meat 

from local producers such as Metzger’s Meats from Hensall, 

The Whole Pig in Dashwood, and fresh Ontario lamb from 

DelMac Farms and Lena’s Lamb in Lambton County. The 

saucy moniker comes from the array of sauces and other 

products produced by The Garlic Box, Steed and Co. 

Lavender, Hot Mamas and Stonewall Kitchens. Antoniak 

says Saucy allows local chefs and customers access to artisanal 

meats and distinctive specialty products without having 

to drive out into the country. “We are representing unique, 

artisanal brand and producers and we should support them.” 

www.facebook.com/Saucy:Meats&SoMuchMore 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm


Bringing GREECE to London for over 38 years! 

Congratulations to Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico from 

Abruzzi, who were able to contribute $3155.47 to London 

Health Science Centre benefiting prostate cancer research by 

donating a portion of their November sales. www.abruzzi.ca 

BEST GREEK 

RESTAURANT 

MYKONOS 

572 Adelaide Street, London 

519-434-6736 

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca 

“A sacred place 

where we 

celebrate life 

and each 

other with 

joy, warmth, 

good food 

and drink.” 

Garden Patio 

Open Daily 

We Host Parties 

— from 8 to 80 

We Know How! 

Mon−Sat 

11am to 10pm 

Sunday 

11am to 9pm 

Garlic’s of London presents the Farmers Feed Cities 

event “Fresh from the Field” on Monday January 21. Join 

chefs Joshua Fevens and Chad Stewart for an evening of 

elegant cuisine as they celebrate Ontario agriculture with 

the farmers that supply the deliciously local ingredients. 

Fresh from the Field runs from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tickets are 

$40 per person. www.garlicsoflondon.com 

A hidden gem is tucked inauspiciously in a row of buildings 

between Burwell and Maitland on Dundas Street. T.G’s Addis 

Ababa will be celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Inside, 

close your eyes and savour the exquisite aromas emanating 

from the nearby tables and the kitchen. The menu offers 

outstanding examples of perfectly prepared Ethiopian cuisine. 

Vegetarians and culinary purists flock here. T.G. and Sam are 

hospitality personified. T.G. is also a well-known caterer. Takeout 

is available. www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com 

When it comes to technology trends, just over one-quarter 

(27 per cent) of chefs polled ranked tablet computers, 

such as iPads, as the predicted hottest technology trend in 

restaurants in 2013. London’s new 168 Sushi, at 660 Oxford 

St. West, an early adopter of iPad tablet ordering systems, is 

engaged in its early preview days as we go to print. There are 

long line-ups for the service at 168 Sushi, and the restaurant 

takes mainstream, conveyor-belt style sushi and fast food 

to a new level. The ambience and decor is by far the most 

contemporary, hands down, out of any AYCE (all-you-caneat) 

sushi place around. 168sushibuffet.com/london 

Murder Mystery 

Dinner Theatre 

The Marienbad provides the perfect atmosphere for the 

“Crime of Your Life!” as you enjoy a delicious prix-fixe 

3-course meal in the circa 1854 fireplace-lit dining room. 

$39 .99 per person includes the performance from 

Mystery Unlimited, salad, main course, 

coffee/tea, dessert, & gratuity. 

See our website for more details. 

122 Carling Street (at Talbot) 

519-679-9940 

www.marienbad.ca 

Book Your Mystery Now! 

Jan. 25 & Feb. 22 

Valentine’s Day Show 


“A Taste of Europe” 

Open Daily for Dinner 

Lunch Monday-Saturday 

In October, news was that APK Live was closing due to 

ongoing repair issues at their Wellington Street location 

and would be seeking a new home. Elaine Knight, APK’s 

owner, has found that new location at 347 Clarence St., and 

will be open throughout January as changes are being made 

to Brennan’s Beer and Bistro, including the creation of 

a bigger stage, painting to match “APK” space, rotating art, 

bands booked, upgraded sound equipment ,etc. The Grand 

re-opening of The APK will happen on Friday, February 1. 

www.apklive.com 

The Early Bird, Justin and Gregg Wolfes’ downtown 

London red-hot, retro diner, has added an additional 28 

seats to the premises. (read the profile of The Early Bird in 

this issue.) The Night Owl has been turned into a cozy little 

bourbon bar. www.facebook.com/EarlyBirdLondon 

Mas Cafe is bringing more traditional Latin-American food 

to downtown London. Gabriel Sepulvelda, a native of 

Chile, opened the smart cafe in mid-December at 192 Dundas 

Street. Mas (meaning more) Cafe specializes in empanadas,


a savoury treat stuffed with a variety of fillings, churros and 

delicious fried-dough pastry and other specialty desserts. 

519-601-0192 

Michaels On The Thames, with its impeccably reliable oldworld 

service, remains London’s “celebration destination.” 

Earlier in the year, owner Brian Stewart welcomed 

Michael Hearse as the new General Manager. Hearse is an 

experienced food and beverage manager and, in addition to 

applying his skill and knowledge as a restaurateur, is focused 

on creating new great dining experiences for patrons of this 

well established gem. www.michaelsonthethames.com 

The Raja exudes elegance and a level of luxury befitting 

its name. Building on their excellent reputation made with 

the thriving Raja in Stratford. Proprietor Zahirul Chowdry 

has welcomed Chef Nurul Islam, The Raja’s original chef, 

back into the fold. Chef Islam has over 35 years of experience 

working with Indian cuisine, including time in the United 

Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, Stratford and Montreal. 

www.rajafinedining.ca 

Happy New Year 

from all of us at 

Edesia Fine Foods! 

We look forward to growing with you 

as we continue to offer 

only the finest and freshest products. 

Thank you for your support! 

The London and St. Thomas Association of Realtors 

is lending a helping hand to youth making a fresh start. 

The association donated $27,000 to Youth Opportunities 

Unlimited. The money will be used to purchase muchneeded 

kitchen equipment and expand YOU’s kitchen and 

food preparation area. The kitchen is used to prepare meals 

for the YOU Made It Cafe and for 30 youths who live in 

accommodations upstairs as well as a major contract with 

the Meals on Wheels program. www.you.on.ca 

After 30 years on the other side of the tracks, Under the 

Volcano moved uptown to the “hot” Richmond Row 

where it became an anchor. “This little restaurant seems 

to outgrow existing quarters every now and then.” Now it 

seems owners Dagmar Wendt and Ruben Vega are taking 

over the old Cityview Restaurant at Wharncliffe and 

Riverside. Stay tuned. www.underthevolcano.co 

Recently we spoke with Laura Campeau, the Brand 

Ambassador for The Silversmith Brewing Co, the new 

small batch craft brewery whose beer is popping up all 

over town. Silversmith is in the process of renovating an 

old church in Virgil, just outside of Niagara-on-the-Lake. 

They are brewing beer “the hard way,” with an attention 

to tradition, quality ingredients, passion, and honest 

hard work. Their beer is unpasteurized and unfiltered and 

contains no additives or preservatives, for a most genuine 

full bodied flavour. www.silversmithbrewing.com 

Josh and Jody Stall and their staff at Upfront at the 

Market are gearing up to host the attendees of Skate 

Canada. Figure skating fans from around the world will be 

coming to London in March for the 2013 ISU World Figure 

Skating Championships. The best figure skaters in the 

Fish and Seafood Specialists 

Quality Game and Fowl 

Full Range of Dry Goods 

Large Selection of Cheeses 

Asian Specialty Products 

Extensive Array of 100 Mile Products 

Over 1,000 Regularly Stocked Items 

Serving Southwestern Ontario’s 

Finest Restaurants 

519 624-4311 

10-115 Saltsman Drive, Cambridge 

www.edesiafinefoods.com

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Reserve Now for 

Valentine’s 

Day! 



world, from over 50 different countries, will participate in 

the event from March 10 to 17 at the Budweiser Gardens, 

as they compete for the title of World Champion. For the 

local community and the culinary community in particular, 

who will be an important part of the festivities, it will be 

the first sporting event held in downtown London to be 

televised around the world to millions. 

Other downtown restaurateurs like Miljan Karac 

of Kantina, Joe Duby of Blu Duby and Long Phan of 

Tamarine are looking at innovative ways to leverage their 

proximity to Skate Canada and send visitors home from 

London to tell their friends about the amazing experience 

they had. What better, more cost-effective marketing can we 

get than word of mouth? 

Noteworthy Wines is a new London-based wine agency 

that launched in March 2012. The agency’s mandate is to 

introduce reasonably priced, award-winning, unique wines 

to wine enthusiasts and hospitality venues throughout 

Southwestern Ontario. Bill Wittur, vice-president of sales 

and marketing, said Noteworthy looks for well-managed 

small-to-medium-sized vineyards that haven’t been 

discovered by large distributors. Noteworthy Wines also 

offers consulting services, to help customers choose the right 

wine for their events, and organizes wine tastings. 

Noteworthy Wines is excited about their new “$5+$5” 

“Reasonably priced, 

fresh, well-executed 

Ethiopian cuisine ...” 

— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine 

Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering


referral program. When you refer people and they buy a 

case of wine from Noteworthy Wines, you AND the referral 

get $5 off your next purchase. No limits apply, so you could 

well get free wine. Referrals must be unique. See www. 

noteworthywines.ca/5plus5 for details and conditions. 

Soup’s On is an annual local soup-making contest that 

has been taking place for 17 years as a fundraiser for the 

Alzheimer Society of Perth County. Sample your way 

through a plethora of tasty soups! Awards for Best Hearty 

Soup, Best Vegetarian Soup, People’s Choice and more. Get 

there early, as soups tend to disappear quickly! January 12, 

2013 www.alzheimerperthcounty.com 

The Savour Stratford Perth County GE Café Chefs 

Series kicks off on January 13. Join Chef Aaron Linley from 

Bijou Restaurant as he celebrates our local terroir and 

demonstrates the how-to’s, then passes off the apron to the 

attendees for a hands-on cooking class. These 3-hour classes 

will be locally focused with a unique twist based on the 

celebrated chef that is teaching that class. Enjoy the dishes you 

create and a wine/beer pairing and take home the recipes! 

On February 10, develop your culinary skills and learn to 

translate those skills into your own home kitchen. Join Chef 

Carl Heinrich from Richmond Station, Top Chef Season 

Two winner and Stratford Chefs School graduate, along 

with Chef Ryan Donovan from West Side Beef Co., as 

they delve into the exciting side of protein — meat! 

Both classes take place at the Local Community Food 

Centre, 612 Erie St., Stratford. $65 pp. www.visitstratford. 

ca/chefsseries 

Stratford’s Winterfest features a gastronomic 3-course 

dinner at The Parlour teamed with a night of humour and 

entertainment on January 19. This is the perfect solution to 

the winter blues! Call 519- 271-2772 for reservations. www. 

theparlour.ca 

Savour Stratford Tasting — A New Year Cleanse, takes 

place on January 19. Sara Bradford, a Registered Holistic 

Nutritionist, leads a hands-on class focusing on whole 

food nutrition at the beautiful Victorian B & B, Grandville 

Manor, 157 Church St., Stratford. Tastings and take-home 

item included. $30 pp www.visitstratford.ca/tastings 

The 2nd Annual “All You Can Eat” Spaghetti Dinner, 

with food prepared by the youth at The Screaming 

Avocado Café under the guidance of Chef Paul 

Finkelstein, is on January 21. There will also be a jazz band 

and silent auction, with proceeds going to Perth/Huron 

United Way. www.perthhuron.unitedway.ca 

“... an intimate neighbourhood 

restaurant with an imported 

Italian wood-burning oven 

exploring new tastes and 

classic Italian favourites ...” 

1700 Hyde Park Road, London 

1 block North of Gainsborough 

519-641-7777 www.porcino.ca


The Savour Stratford Tasting series continues at The Milky 

Whey Fine Cheese Shop, 118 Ontario St., Stratford. Enjoy a 

Belgian Beer and Cheese Tasting on January 26, 3 pm - 5 

pm. The history of beer and cheese making enjoys a long 

history in Belgium and as a result, some of the best beer and 

cheese in the world comes from this area. Come and savour 

extraordinary pairings. 

On February 23, enjoy Canadian Artisan Beer and Cheese. 

Take off to the Great White North to discover some of the best 

new selections in beer and cheese by Canadian artisans. This is 

a great way to spend a patriotic winter afternoon. Each tasting 

event is $30/A plus HST. www.themilkywhey.ca 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course 

prix fixe menu 

option 


At The Parlour, 101 Wellington St., Stratford, enjoy a selection 

of unique small plates to share every Friday night during 

January and February from 5pm-8pm. There is something 

different every week, so don’t miss out. www.theparlour.ca 

The popular Bijou Winter Cooking & Wine Classes with 

Chef Aaron Linley and Sommelier Bronwyn Linley are 

back, so reserve early. For overnight package options, visit 

Birmingham Manor B&B at www.birminghammanor. 

com. January and February at Bijou, 105 Erie St., Stratford, 2 

pm - 6 pm. $120/Per person. www.bijourestaurant.com 

New this year are Saturday lunches and dinners, part of 

the Stratford Chefs School’s new culinary repertoire 

that are open to everyone. Dinners are served in the 

garden room of The Prune, 151 Albert St., Tuesday through 

Saturday. Lunches are served most Thursdays, Fridays and 

Saturdays starting at 11:30 am, now at Rene’s Bistro, 

20 Wellington St., in downtown Stratford, and offer a 

BYOB option for a small corkage fee. A new Passport 

holder plan offers unique privileges to travel along 

several culinary adventures, all of which will enrich your 

understanding and enjoyment of the learning odyssey 

that the students undertake. Passport adventures can 

include the following based on one of four levels: Season 

Opener, Patron Reception, Gastro Book Club, Chefs Table, 

Bubbly Gastro Chat, Dinner with a Culinary Star, and Gastro 

Cooking Classes. For event details and menus visit www. 

stratfordchef.com or call 519- 271-1414. 

Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market has a NEW 

indoor location, The Local Community Food Centre, 612 

Erie Street, Stratford. Shop from producers practicing good, 

clean and fair principles at this wonderful new facility. 10 am 

- 2 pm www.slowfoodperthcounty.ca 

www.davidsbistro.ca 

432 Richmond St. 

at Carling • London 

FREE PARKING 

After 6 pm off Queens Ave 

Every Thursday night at Mercer Hall, it’s Champagne and 

Oysters! Satisfy your oyster craving with $2 oysters and 

enjoy a lovely sparkling wine by the glass or bottle. www. 

mercerhall.com 

London’s Celebration Destination 

29 

Lunch Weekdays 

Dinner 7 Nights a Week 

1 York Street 

(just West of Ridout) 

519-672-0111 

BEST FINE DINING 

AND MOST ROMANTIC 

RESTAURANT 

Continental cuisine – with a 

contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. Baby Grand Pianist 6 Nights a Week 

From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Plenty of Free Parking 

Michael’s makes your celebration an event. www.michaelsonthethames.com 

MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES


Love local food and great music? Join the crew at Molly 

Blooms Stratford on a Thursday or Saturday for great 

specials and live entertainment including: Bill Craig, 

Mob Barley and Dan Stacey. Thursdays Molly Blooms 

features their famous All Day Steak Special. 26 Brunswick St., 

Stratford. www.mollybloomsstratford.com 

Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year round market 

operating since 1855. Fresh produce, crafts, meat and cheese. 

Stratford Rotary Complex-Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd., 

Stratford. 7 am - 12 pm. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com 

Our readers want to know, so send us info about 

culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. With 

BUZZ in the Subject line, send to: editor@eatdrink.ca. 

facebook.com/eatdrinkmag 

twitter.com/eatdrinkmag 

We tweet and retweet, post to our Facebook page, and print 

all the news we can. Let’s get better connected! 

Foster’s Inn offers a wide selection of Winter Enticers — $5 

daily breakfasts, Sammy & Side lunches for $9.99, weekday 

Lounge Lover 5 Appetizers @ $5 each, after 5pm and dinner 

specials, Sunday through Thursday, with a different dinner 

special each evening. www.fostersinn.com 

The popular winter bistro dinner menu is back at Keystone 

Alley Café, 34 Brunswick St., Stratford. Enjoy two courses for 

$24.95 or three courses for $31.95. www.keystonealley.com 

Enjoy heartburn? Of course, but only on February 2, at the 

26th annual Orr Insurance Heartburn Day. Restaurants 

and business battle it out in this annual Chili Cook-Off, 

a fundraiser for the Heart and Stroke Foundation. 

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. 

rsmith@hsf.on.ca 

Canada Dairy XPO (CDX) — Canada’s National Dairy 

Showcase & Cheesefest — is the first national showcase 

dedicated exclusively to the dairy sector. On February 6, 

the public is invited to attend CheeseFEST, an evening 

networking social featuring a complimentary massive 

cheese buffet. Meet celebrity Chef Lynn Crawford and 

enjoy live entertainment along with regional micro brews 

and wineries. Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Rd., 

Stratford, 4 pm - 7 pm . www.dairyxpo.ca 

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caterers 

It’s Delightful, not Devilish 

at Wicked Catering, in London 

By Mary Ann Colihan 

The Braywick Bistro and Wine Bar, at 244 

Dundas Street across from the Central 

Library, picked a cheeky name for their 

on-site catering business: Wicked — as in 

wickedly good food. 

Barry and Anissa Foley bought the Braywick 

and Wicked in November 2011 and are changing up 

everything. Career entrepreneurs, they previously 

owned Foley Farms & Carolinian Winery, a demanding 

operation that gave them experience with hightouch 

customer service. “We make the customer feel 

like they have a relationship with us,” say Anissa 

Foley. “Our brides tell us we are the first to call back. 

And we hear that our menus help with any specialneeds 

requests because we make everything fresh 

and can customize plates.” 

Chef Ian McGill, a graduate of the esteemed 

Stratford Chefs School, designed Wicked’s catering 

menu for all occasions — from weddings and 

elaborate holiday parties to more intimate dinners at 

home. They will also use their customers’ favourite 

wines to pair with a custom tapas snack menu. “With 

Wicked, we are trying to bring the restaurant and 

new menus out to more people through catering,” he 

says. “Braywick is like a hidden gem downtown.” 

McGill likes to create fresher variations of French 

and Italian classics. His homemade pizzas and 

pastas will be prominent on Wicked’s catering 

menu because of their simplicity to cook. Foley says 

‘Wicked’ Good Celeriac Purée 

Celeriac is a nonstarchy, knobby variety of celery harvested for its roots. Wicked Chef McGill’s 

recipe is very versatile as a side dish. He tops the purée with seared scallops for lunch and grilled 

chicken or beef for a hearty winter dinner. 

1 whole celeriac (celery root), peeled and cubed 

1 cup (250 mL) 35% cream (10% can be used) 

1 tbsp (15 mL) kosher salt 

1 tbsp (15 mL) white pepper 

1 Boil celeriac until tender in salted water. Strain and reserve one cup of water from cooking. 

2 Blend cooked celeriac with cream, salt and pepper. Use extra cooking liquid to let out (thin) 

the purée. Plate as a side under your favourite fish or meat.


Chef Ian McGill (immediate left) and 

proprietors Anissa and Barry Foley 

(seated below in the Braywick Bistro) 

and a variety of Wicked samples. 

his oysters and 

curried mussels 

are also a hot 

commodity. 

A big fan of 

area farmers, 

McGill says 

their catering 

options will offer 

more seasonal 

and fresh local 

products. “In 

winter, that 

means more 

root vegetables, 

charcuterie 

plates and 

cheese platters, and our rack of lamb may become a lamb 

shepherd’s pie at a less expensive price point.” 

He says Wicked’s strength is their personable and 

well-trained waitstaff. “We do drop-and-go appetizers 

for parties, but also offer entire sit-down meals where the 

host can really relax and enjoy the service,” says McGill. 

Having grown up on a pork farm, he believes in using 

the whole pig and learned healthy cooking skills from his 

mother, a dietician. “I love terrines and pâtés, and trying 

new flavour combinations,” says McGill. He is also a big 

fan of preserving, pickling and canning, and jars of his 

craft are available for sale. 

All in all, it sounds like a wickedly fine recipe for 

success! 

Wicked Catering 

519-645-1188 

The Braywick Bistro & Wine Bar 

244 Dundas Street, London 

519-645-6524 

www.braywickbistro.ca 

Mary Ann Colihan writes about the environment and sustainable food 

systems. She co-authored a book on farmers’ markets and is at work on a book 

about the Kingsmill’s Department Store.



culinary education 

Teaching the Importance of Food 

Chef Chris Squire leads new generations into the kitchen 

By Kym Wolfe 

is the secret 

ingredient in any 

great food,” says Chris 

“Passion 

Squire. And it’s a given 

that passion is also the secret 

ingredient in any great teacher. 

Spend some time chatting with 

Squire and you realize he is 

equally passionate about good 

food and teaching others about it, 

particularly young people. 

Squire is a highly respected chef, 

caterer, and culinary educator 

who has been part of the London 

restaurant scene for more than 

four decades. He’s taught culinary 

skills for more than twenty years, 

principally at Sir George Ross 

Secondary School, teaching his 

students not just cooking skills 

but also educating them about 

healthy food and nutrition and 

the ill effects of a poor diet on both 

mental and physical health. 

While the classes that Squire 

teaches are focused on chef 

training, as the head of the culinary program he also 

oversees the butchers, the bakers and the daily lunch 

makers — and Sir George Ross is the only high school 

in the province with the facilities to teach that broad 

range of skills, hands on, says Squire. “We have a full 

butcher shop. Local farmers will bring in whole cows 

and sheep, and we will butcher and wrap the meat. 

We also have a full commercial bakery, and we make 

everything from scratch, from breads to desserts.” 

Part of Squire’s intention is to replicate the 

experience that students would have in a real 

commercial kitchen, so students in the program 

come in at 8 a.m. every school day and have to have a 

multiple food item menu, all made from scratch, ready 

to serve to all students in the school during lunch 

periods, which begin at 11 a.m. daily. Before Christmas, 

the culinary students prepared a turkey dinner for 

200. The students also prepare food regularly for a 

number of church groups that provide free meals for 

individuals and families in need. The program charges 

for the cost of food, but not for the labour. 

Outside of the classroom, when he’s not catering 

or hosting culinary vacations at Villa Al Boschiglia 

in Tuscany, Squire teaches cooking classes at two 

local kitchen shops — Kiss the Cook and Jill’s Table. 

He also delivers individualized cooking lessons in 

people’s homes, and during the summer he can be 

found in the kitchen at Red Tail Golf Course in Port 

Stanley, where he is head chef in what he describes 

as “a little jewel of a restaurant.” 

Squire’s love affair with food goes back to his high 

school years, when he first started working in the 

restaurant industry. Back then, he thought of cooking 

as his meal ticket to get through university, graduate 

studies, and eventually teachers’ college. But when he 

graduated and found there was a surplus of teachers, 

his plans for a career in education were put on the 

back burner. He went back to cooking, and spent 

twenty years at Auberge du Petit Prince before closing 

the restaurant in 1997 (The name was revived by new 

owners a few years ago). Throughout those years, 

he took on a teaching role working with apprentices 

in the restaurant. “It’s important to mentor the 

generation that is coming behind us,” he says. 

Chef Chris Squire brings his passion for good food into all he does.


It was an invitation from fellow foodie, 

baker Rob Chick, that got Squire involved 

in teaching in the culinary program at 

Ross. “As soon as I saw the students, it was 

a transformative experience. I found it so 

compelling,” says Squire. “Here were 

kids who had had such little academic 

success because they are visual and 

kinetic learners. Suddenly they were 

in a school working with their hands, 

and they found something they 

excelled at. Ross is a very special place 

to teach — the spotlight rarely shines 

on these kids, but it should.” 

“These are students who have a variety 

of challenges in their lives,” says Squire. 

“It’s important for them to find work that is 

self-sustaining. When they leave, they are 

ready to go into the job market as a line cook 

or other entry-level work in the hospitality 

industry. There is no shortage of jobs in 

service professions, and never has been.” 

At the time this went to print, Squire 

was concerned about the future of the 

culinary program at Sir George Ross, as it 

was one of the schools targeted for closure 

by administrators at the Thames Valley 

District School Board. “Ross is almost a 

boutique school,” he says. “I don’t think 

it’s possible to create this very special 

environment in a larger context.” 

He notes that there is a movement 

to introduce culinary classes in other 

schools across the city, and for the 

most part he thinks that’s a wonderful 

idea. “Clearly there is an awareness 

that culinary is a growth area in public 

education. Cooking is part of our 

communal patrimony — it’s knowledge 

that everyone should share,” he says. 

“The thing I notice when I do cooking 

classes outside of Ross is that there is a 

whole generation who doesn’t know how 

to cook. Young women in their twenties 

don’t have the skills and knowledge that 

they would have learned in the old Home 

Economics classes. Food is a central 

part of everyday life — how can it not be 

important?” 

Kym Wolfe is freelance writer based in London. 

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Beer beer matters 

A Forward and Rearward Glance 

The 4th Annual eatdrink Craft Beer Awards 

By The Malt Monk 

January is so aptly named after the 

Roman deity Janus, god of new 

beginnings and transitions. 

He’s usually depicted with 

two faces — one looking forward, 

one looking back. The month 

of January is thus a Gregorian 

acknowledgement of the fact that 

at the change of the year, it is 

human nature to reflect on the past 

year while looking at the future. 

In keeping with this ideal, the annual 

craft beer awards column reviews the 

highlights of the local craft beer culture 

and industry in the past year, and also 

Highly Recommended 

Garrison Spruce Beer — A wonderful revival of a longneglected 

traditional Canadian favorite from Halifax’s 

premier craft brewer. Absolutely mind-blowing flavour 

amalgamation. 

Cameron’s RyePA (Rye Pale Ale) — A wellcrafted 

West Coast-style pale with the spicy 

dryness of rye complimenting the citrusy bite of 

Cascade hops. A well-deserving award winner. 

Mikkeller Fresler Triple Bock — A big, 

rich, fat, black chocolate and fig Bockbier from 

Copenhagen Brewing artisan Mikkeller. Originally, monks 

brewed Bockbier for a strong and filling beer during Lent 

looks at trends that will shape the future 

of the local artisanal brewing community. 

So much is happening 

so quickly in the local craft 

beer market, and so many 

praiseworthy brews and venues 

are emerging, that it has become 

difficult to assign merit and 

achievement awards to a limited 

few beers or brewers. 

So here (in no particular 

order) are the beers that stood out in this 

market in 2012, that merit praise and 

recommendation as being fine examples of 

both style and the brewer’s art: 

fasting. Don’t drink this beer instead of a meal, though, as it 

contains 11% alcohol (but you’d never know it). 

Flying Monkeys’ Effinguud, Lil’ Red and Big Red — 

Three of the wonderful brews FMB created for the 

London Tap takeover — a rich double milk stout, 

an American Red Ale, and an Imperial Red Ale. 

We can only hope they release them again as 

draft or bottle offerings this year. 

Cameron’s Deviator Doppelbock — Another 

fine offering from this Oakville brewer. This dark rich 

Doppelbock is as good as any German samples I’ve tasted — 

probably better because it’s local and always fresher. 

Home-made Food • The Area’s ONLY Hand-pulled Cask-conditioned Ale 

Friendly Staff • Charming Heritage Building • 5 miles north of London 

A REAL English Country Pub Just Minutes from the City!


Garrison Winter Warmer — A warming spiced winter 

ale in the best tradition of the style. What I considered to 

be the star of the Garrison special release by the LCBO. 

Beau’s Night Marzen — On tap only once in 2011, 

this great, all-organic, unfiltered, hoppy Oktoberfest 

Marzen was released in bottled form to wider 

distribution in 2012. Good move, Beau’s. 

Brooklyn Monster — Garrett Oliver’s astounding 

triple-mash bad-boy barley wine has rich complexity 

and is ready to drink with four months aging on it, 

but will gracefully cellar another few years. 

Weihanstephaner Vitas (a wheat Hellerbock) — 

First release in Canada, I fell in love with this wonderful 

golden wheat bock. Rich with notes of honeydew and 

wheat cakes, yet dry and champagne-like. 

Sawdust City Ol’ Woody Altbier — Perfect balance is the 

forte of this Dusseldorf-styled Alt. This murky copper-brown 

lagered ale has a perfect balance of toasty maltiness, walnut 

back tones and noble hop bite. Clean, flavourful and sessionable. 

Nickel Brook Oak Aged Bolshevik Bastard — This 

Russian Imperial Stout aged in bourbon barrels saw limited 

release last year. Satiny mouth feel, complexity and 

richness. Their regular tank-aged Bolshevik Bastard is 

pretty good too, especially on tap. 

Schneider Tap X, Mein Nelson Sauvin — An 

experimental bottle-fermented weizenbock dosed with 

the vinaceous Nelson Sauvin hop made this the star of 

the 2012 imports. Lightly spritzy and champagne-like in 

character, with a demure exotic fruitiness accented with 

notes of white grape skin and a dry biscuity finish. 

Samuel Adams Alpine Spring Lager — Another 

quality import from a well-established stateside 

craft brewer gave the region its first Zwickelbier (an 

unfiltered more effervescent form of Kellerbier) — 

hazy pale gold with a massive puffy white cap, sturdy 

malt backbone and wonderful Tettnanger hop bite 

— refreshing to the max! 

Black Creek Dray Horse Ale — An unfiltered brown 

ale done colonial-style by a historical crafter. It may 

seem to pale in comparison to all the innovative new 

brews on the craft market, but its simple dignity, 

quality brewing, quaffable flavour, and adhesion to 

the authentic pioneer style colonial ales made this 

one stand out for me. 

Creemore Springs 25th Anniversary 

Collaboration Altbier — Collaboration between 

Creemore’s brewmaster and Dusseldorf’s Premier 

Altbier brewer (Zum Schlüssel) produced this 

remarkable copper-red ale for local consumption. I 

hope they brew it again in 2013. 

Niagara Oast House Brewey Saison — New 

kids on the block with lots of skill and experience 

have made their first offering — a world-class, spicy, 

cidery Wallonian farmhouse ale reminiscent of La Chouffe. 

Silversmith Black Lager — Another Niagara start-up 

brewer comes out of the gate with a sessionable Schwarzbier 

(Thüringer black beer). Boilerplate dark lager exactingly made 

in the Franconian tradition with New-World flair. 

Great Lakes Brewing Ezra (cider barrel saison), and 

Milktits (Imperial milk stout) — Two of the 

excellent one-off cask ales served at the GLB London 

tap invasion at Milos’s Craft Beer Emporium. We can 

only hope they go to production with one or both of 

these this year. 

Church Key Brewing Holy Cow Chocolate Milk 

Stout — I like milk stout, and this is one of the best. It 

has the added dimension of an all-natural rich creamy 

demeanor and a roast cocoa flavour. Unlike the big 

US flavored stouts, this one hasn’t any in-your-face 

synthetic tastes, just ample natural satisfying flavour. 

Nogne Porter — From the famed Norwegian 

Crafter Nogne LCBO release — This is porter on 

steroids. Deep black, bittersweet chocolate, roast 

coffee, rich dark fruits, soft dry finish. Complex, huge 

and very approachable.


Bellwoods Monogamy (Summit) — Another artisanclass 

brew from the region’s newest gastro-brew pub. 

This Pacific NW-styled American pale ale is a 

single-hop ale that showcases the Summit 

hop. Palate is dry and refreshing. Aroma is 

complex, fruity, and pungent. A worldclass 

craft brew from a talented brewer. 

Great Lakes Brewing Karma Citra 

Single Hop Ale — Another great 

single-hop Pacific NW APA, this time 

featuring the Citra hop — big, bright, floral, 


citrusy hop bite with rich body, ample malt presence, and a 

dry finish. Another example of how local brewers are 

outshining the styles they emulate. 

Orkney Old Skull Splitter — From 

Scotland comes the filtered version of one 

of the world’s highly rated barley wines, 

and for good reason — shimmering red, 

vinous, warming, complex — smooth 

as satin to the palate, rich in tawny 

sherry-like character, dry in the finish, 

dangerously too easy to drink. 

Exciting Trends & Innovations 

One-off cask-conditioned specialty brews: 

brewers are installing small (under 10 

barrel) pilot brew sets to produce limited 

release one-offs that are barrel-aged in 

cider, port/sherry, cognac and bourbon 

barrels. Flying Monkeys will be into this in 

a big way. 

Style trends — single hop APAs, rye 

ale, big Pacific NW IPAs, milk stouts, 

saisons and farmhouse ales. Wet-hop and 

single-hop ales made with locally grown 

specialty hops are a major trend. Sourcing 

brewing grains and hops locally instead of 

importing is now common. 

I have to say that 2012 saw an explosion 

of styles and innovative brews hit the 

New Craft Brewers 

It’s also been a phenomenal year for new craft 

brewers coming onstream. Some noteworthy 

crafted beer breweries and 

brewing companies to keep 

an eye on include: 

Silversmith Brewing Company 

(www.silversmithbrewing.com) — 

One of two new Niagara-on-the-Lake 

craft brew ops. Silversmith has an 

excellent Schwarzbier and Weizen as its initial flagship 

brews. There are rumours they have a great oyster stout in 

the tanks right now. 

Niagara Oast House Brewing (www. 

oasthousebrewers.ca) — just down 

the road from Silversmith, this new 

brewery has plenty of talent and its 

first offerings (a aaison and a Bière de 

Garde) are world-class. 

Sawdust City Brewey (sawdustcitybeer. 

blogspot.ca) A leading-edge craft brewer still building his 

brewery in Bracebridge, but producing fine ales out of Black 

Oak brewery. 

craft market. The LCBO shone in its 

seasonal and special releases, but most 

of the world-class craft beers of note were 

made by local brewers. Our local market 

saw a big push to emulate, and upstage, 

the West Coast American crafters in the 

pale ale, double IPA, and Cascadian ale 

(black IPA) genres. Local crafters also 

seemed motivated to explore and innovate 

European saisons and farmhouse ales. 

We saw the appearance of the first locally 

made Berliner Weiss, Imperial Milk stouts, 

Wallonian farmhouse ales, cider-barreled 

saisons, and whiskey barrel strong ales and 

stouts. It has been a great year for brewer 

innovations. 

Bellwoods (www.bellwoodsbrewery.com) — A new 

gastro-brewhouse in old Toronto that is winning universal 

praise with its well-hopped, all-natural, 

unfiltered Belgian, pale ales and 

specialty ales. Watch for tap handles 

to show up in your local pub — an 

indication the publican knows good 

beer. 

Spearhead Brewing (www. 

spearheadbeer.com) They have their 

boundary-pushing Hawaiian Pale in bottles at the LCBO now 

and a new spiced brown ale (Moroccan Brown) on tap. 

Cheshire Valley Brewing (www.cheshirevalleybrewing.com) 

— They continue to expand their line 

of authentic English-style ales — great 

sessioning ales for Brit pub-hounds. 

Black Creek Historic Brewery (www. 

blackcreekbrewery.ca) — Producers of 

colonial pioneer-style stouts, porters, and 

specialty ales. Now contract-brewing their flagship beers, 

which are available at the LCBO.


Local Craft Beer Venues & Events 

Local events last year indicate London’s 

craft beer culture is coming of age — 

Forest City Craft Beer Fest at APK Live 

was a great success and introduced local 

crafters to the public. Ontario Craft 

Beer Week, celebrated by local craft 

beer venues, was larger than ever this 

year. The list of craft beer exhibitors at 

the London Wine and Food Show keeps 

growing. Casks are more common at local 

pubs. Late summer saw the appearance 

of London’s first fully dedicated venue to 

showcase local brewing artisans — Milos’ 

Craft Beer Emporium. The Great Lakes 

Tap Invasion at Milos’ (formerly Gigs) was 

THE craft beer tasting event of the year, 

and brought praise from even the savvy 

Toronto bierophiles. 

The Future Looks Bright 

There’s talk of a new government 

breaking the province’s alcohol retail/ 

control monopoly, which could see the 

artisan brewing industry flourish at a 

faster pace. Federal tax incentives for 

small start-up brewers are creating a 

diversity of local brewers and bringing 

crafted beer to many localities that 

haven’t seen fresh locally brewed beer 

available since EP Taylor consolidated 

the corporate brewing industry in the 

’50s. Freer export 

laws across 

provincial borders 

have local and 

trans-provincial 

crafters tapping 

new domestic 

markets and 

expanding their 

operations. 

Another trend 

that will impact 

and broaden 

other industries 

is crafters using 

locally grown 

grains and hops. 

Hop and brewing 

grain farming is 

taking off in a big way. The future looks 

so bright that craft brewers and drinkers 

gotta wear shades. 

Government regulations forced Railway City to 

change their playful label, above, in case one believed 

it offered true healing powers! 

A British Pub. 

Be Warm. Be Welcome. Be at Home. 

• 17 Drafts on Tap 

• Over 30 Single Malt Scotches 

• Gift Certificates 

• Traditional British Comfort Food 

The 

Coates of Arms 

Restaurant & Pub 

580 Talbot Street, London 

(at Albert) 

www.coatesofarms.ca 

519-432-1001 

Malt Monk’s Tap Handle Pick 

Railway City Brewing Honey Elixir — 

This local (St. Thomas) brewer has scored 

big points with 

me on this brew. 

This is crazy fresh 

with a bright, 

floral, citrusy and 

pleasantly bitter 

taste, decent 

balance with the 

rich pale malts, and 

a clean, drying, 

bitter finish. 

Drinkable APAs 

don’t get much 

better than this. Try 

one when you see it 

on tap. 

The Malt Monk is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a 

passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in 

the dialogue at http://maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/



wine 

My Most Memorable Wines of the Year 

By Rick VanSickle 

Wine has the power to 

transform both time 

and place, and to 

etch a memory 

that will last forever. 

But how many times 

have you found yourself 

at your nearest 

wine shop trying to 

remember that wine 

you had just a week 

ago. Oh, the memory 

is vivid of who you were 

with, where you were, what 

you had to eat, but you can’t quite 

put your finger on the name of that great 

wine you enjoyed so much. 

That’s because wine is a catalyst, a prop 

in our lives that shares the good times 

and the bad, but it isn’t necessarily the 

centerpiece of an event. 

Chances are the greatest wine you ever tried 

is memorable because of the great time you 

had while you were drinking it, whether 

with a loved one or friends, or 

during a magical moment on 

some tropical island, or in 

celebration of one of life’s 

many milestones. 

Memorable wines 

don’t have to be the most 

expensive. In fact, the ones I 

will never forget have little to 

do with cost and everything 

to do with time and place. 

This past year I tried many 

that cost in excess of $300 a 

bottle. They were good — some 

great, in fact — but for various reasons, not 

necessarily the most memorable. 

So, here we go — my most memorable 

wines of 2012, in no particular order. 

Bodegas Castano Hecula 

Old Vines Monastrell 2009, 

Yecla ($12, LCBO) — As a wine 

writer and reviewer, I receive 

at my door all manner of wine 

samples from around the 

world at all price points. 

I taste each with an open 

mind (regardless of cost) 

and rate them how I taste 

them. In general terms, 

you get what you pay for. 

But when I opened up this 

beauty from Spain’s Yecla 

region, my jaw dropped. 

What a gorgeous wine with 

a bold nose of raspberry, 

violets, light spice and a 

touch of blueberry. It’s 

rich and complex on the 

palate with bountiful fruit 

and subtle spices. And then I 

noticed the price: $12. Now that’s 

memorable! 

Domaine Barmès Buecher 

Hengst Riesling 2008 ($25, if you 

can find it in Canada) — After 

three solid days of tasting the 

best wines of Burgundy during 

a press trip to that region, a 

small group of us broke away 

from our handlers to take 

in a highly geeky tasting 

of biodynamic/organic 

wines in a small space in 

the centre of Beaune. The 

Domaine Barmès Buecher 

table from Alsace, France, 

caught my eye and I found 

myself entranced by this 

Grand Cru Riesling from


a small family producer. The wines were 

poured by the lovely Sophie Barmès, who 

spoke passionately about her family’s 

farm, which has roots back to the 17 th 

century. And it showed in the wines 

— such personality and flavour — and 

this one is now forever etched in my 

memory bank. 

Kistler Sonoma Mountain Les 

Noisetiers Chardonnay 2007 

($70, Vintages) — Les Noisetiers 

is the epitome of the buttery 

style of Chardonnay. This 

California producer has always 

been a favourite of mine, and I 

will dig deep to buy it whenever 

I see it. It shows a cacophony of 

fruit on the nose, from apple, 

pear and melon to secondary 

notes of bread dough, minerals, 

and almonds, all slathered in 

buttery goodness. It’s simply 

gorgeous in the mouth with ripe 

fruits that work so well with fine 

oak, spice, nuts, and flavours that 

are layered and sublime. It is made even 

more memorable with a fresh hunk of 

wild Pacific Coho salmon grilled on a 

cedar plank on the BBQ. 

Château Beychevelle 1989 and 

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse 

de Lalande 1989 — I purchased these 

two top Bordeaux wines from a guy 

who was just trying to get rid of 

his cellared wines when an illness 

meant he had to stop drinking 

alcohol. It was my lucky day. This 

is one of the most sought-after 

vintages in Bordeaux, and these 

are two of the most collectible 

wines from that region. I brought 

both to a dinner party that was 

catered by Niagara’s most famous 

chef, Stephen Treadwell. I can still 

taste these bold red blends with 

the braised Cumbrae’s beef short 

ribs with truffle potato purée and 

farmer David Irish’s late summer 

vegetables. 

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JAN 17 TH TO FEB 3 RD 

The Blizzard Edition 2013 

”Get a babysitter and call a cab... 

for tonight we live it up!” 

At Nearly 

40 

Restaurants 

INDULGE 

IN A 3-COURSE 

MEAL 

$ 

15, $ 20, $ 25, 

$ 

30 or $ 35 

per person 

Lunch & Dinner 

LondonLicious.ca 

see website for all locations and menus 

Brought to you by: 

Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet 1982 — I 

was treated to a tasting of the finest wines 

of Burgundy at a spectacular display of 

Grand Crus at the historic Château du Clos 

de Vougeot in Côte de Nuits last March. The 

castle, built in 1551, 

is surrounded by the 

50.6-hectare Clos de 

Vougeot vineyard. 

But the most 

memorable wine of 

the evening was the 

Louis Jadot Bâtard- 

Montrachet 1982 

(yes, 1982!), paired 

with a regional 

cheese plate. The 

Chardonnay oozed 

minerality and buckwheat honey, lanoline, 

slate, charred wood, warm apple, and 

candied citrus notes. A truly hedonistic wineand-food 

pairing. 

($45, Vintages in the new year) — Thomas 

Bachelder is a master Chardonnay and 

Pinot Noir maker and is now making wines 

from Niagara, Burgundy and Oregon under 

his own name. His 2010s are just making 

it to wine shelves now, but from a summer 

tasting at his home in Niagara, this is the 

wine that I will forever remember. I’ve 

never given a Niagara Chardonnay a higher 

score. Wow! A stunner. It is a big, showy 

Chard that makes a statement from the first 

sniff. Poached pear, fresh-baked apple pie, 

waves of flint and stony minerality, and 

then the creamy vanilla spices, toffee and 

elegant oak, which are integrated rather 

than over-powering, chime in. It is weighty 

on the palate with bold fruit matching 

rich and toasty spices and balanced out 

by racy acidity. It’s a powerful and stylish 

Chardonnay with hedonistic flavours that 

all lead to a gloriously long finish. 

Anthony Road Art Series Riesling 2010 ($24, 

Finger Lakes, New York) — Sometimes I am 

in a tasting room in a region I’m not all that 

familiar with, and when the wine crosses my 

lips it makes me do a double take. This is one 

of those wines. The Finger Lakes region is 

quickly becoming known for exceptionally 

well-made Rieslings, and this one is from 

one of the best producers in the region. It 

is wild-fermented and shows honeysuckle, 

beeswax, citrus and apple notes on the nose. 

It’s complex and layered on the palate, with


a range of citrus and apple fruit to go with 

white pepper, and rousing minerality in a 

structured, almost viscous style through a 

long finish. 

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine 

Estate Blanc de Blanc ‘Carte Blanche’ 

2007 ($45, Vintages) — Niagara is just now 

catching on to the beauty of vintage-dated 

sparkling wines. This first effort from 

Henry of Pelham, a blanc de blanc (100% 

Chardonnay), has been aged for 60 months 

after partial barrel fermentation. 

The tête de cuvée was made to celebrate the 

winery’s 25th anniversary of winemaking. 

Paul Speck said the family wanted to 

do something special with its sparkling 

program and decided on a vintage-dated, 

traditionally made style of wine that would 

highlight the Chardonnay fruit from its 

estate Short Hills Vineyard. 

“We are looking for a bigger style in this 

wine,” he said. “We pick them a 

little riper. We’re really excited 

about the wine. It was such a 

long wait.” 

In a lot of ways, the first 

vintage-dated sparkling wine 

from Henry of Pelham reflects 

the warmth of the 2007 season, 

even though the Chardonnay 

grapes for sparkling wines 

are picked much earlier 

in the season to preserve 

freshness and acidity. The 

nose shows warm bread, 

toasty brioche, complex 

citrus, stone fruit and 

lemon curd. The mousse 

is soft and luscious on the 

palate, with baked apple, 

lemon-citrus and creamy 

quince fruits to go with 

pastry, toasted hazelnuts 

and enough juicy acidity to 

carry the flavours through 

a long finish. This is a fleshy 

sparkler, to be sure, but it’s what you want 

from a wine that’s already five years old. 

SPECIAL 

Valentine’s 

Dinner 

$65 a couple 


Join Us on St. Patrick’s Day, March 17, 

and Celebrate with a Jig’s Dinner. 

Call for reservations at 519-268-2000 

On behalf of all the Carolinian staff, 

I wish everyone a Happy New Year 

and best wishes for 2013. While our 

patio is closed for the season, we’ve 

got a wonderful table for you in our 

exquisite dining room. Join us for 

Lunch or Dinner. 

Make your Reservation today! 

— Bonnie Preece 

Enjoy! 

Rick VanSickle is the publisher of www.WinesInNiagara.com. 

Follow him on Twitter @rickwine 

Tues–Wed: 10 to 6 • Thurs–Sat: 10 to 9 

Sundays: 10 to 4 (Brunch Only 10 to 2) • Closed Mondays



books 

It’s Always Happy Hour Here 

A Literary Look at Cocktails 

Review by Darin Cook 

With the biggest night of alcohol 

consumption, New Year’s Eve, 

now behind us, some of us may 

be vowing to abstain from our 

favourite drinks and just read about alcohol 

for a while before going on the next bender. In 

which case, these books may help. 

Christine Sismondo, a Canadian writer 

with a bartending past, gives us an intellectual 

look at mixed drinks in Mondo Cocktail: 

A Shaken and Stirred History (McArthur 

& Company, 2005). Sismondo outlines her 

preferred recipes for twelve well-known 

cocktails, veering off onto entertaining 

tangents while doing so. Many tales feature 

Ernest Hemingway, who was around for the 

invention of several cocktails. She admits it 

was difficult to write a single chapter without 

referencing the iconic American writer. He 

was in Paris when the Bloody Mary arrived 

on the bar scene, and in Havana giving rise to 

the daiquiri. He has been credited with first 

using the Red Eye (tomato juice, beer, and a 

raw egg) to cure hangovers. 

No cocktail is her 

favourite — she seems to 

love them all equally. But 

martinis do hold a special 

place in the lineage of 

alcohol beverages, as 

they are “the universal 

symbol of all other 

cocktails. It is the 

cocktail to which all 

other cocktails aspire.” 

A martini was the first drink 

made in the White House by Roosevelt after 

repealing Prohibition in 1933. Sismondo is a 

purist about martinis and advocates shaking 

(not stirring), very hard for a very long time — 

“It may hurt you, but you can’t hurt it.” 

The writing team of Jordan Kaye and 

Marshall Altier also speak highly of the 

martini: “Never out of fashion, never out 

of place, the martini earns 

every bit of its legendary 

status as the ultimate 

cocktail.” These two 

authors have combined 

their efforts in How 

to Booze: Exquisite 

Cocktails and Unsound 

Advice (Harpers, 2010). They describe 

how alcohol influences our behaviour, good 

and bad, like loosening up social events 

and drowning our sorrows after a breakup. 

According to these booze enthusiasts, there 

is always the right drink for the right time. 

They write: “The constellation of drinks 

is boundless and, like the greeting card 

aisle at the pharmacy, provides options for 

every situation imaginable. Some are sickly 

sweet, others just plain off, and a rare few 

are just right.” 

Like a dysfunctional self-help book, they 

claim to perfectly match exotically-named 

drinks to any occasion: a Whiskey Sour when 

you realize your ex-girlfriend is engaged to 

someone else; a Rusty Nail when attending 

a high school reunion; a Hot Toddy for days 

calling in sick to work. They may take it too 

far in the self-help department by suggesting 

that on your deathbed, “you spend your last 

few earthbound moments stirring up a good 

drink, settling into your favourite chair, and 

enjoying one last indulgence” with a Rob Roy, 

simply because “it is as worthy a drink as any 

to sign off with.” These authors also make 

reference to Hemingway’s contributions to 

the field of drinking, including a cocktail 

called Death in the Afternoon — leave 

it to Papa to create a drink using only an 

overabundance of absinthe and a splash of 

champagne. In the end, the authors admit 

that “the right drink for right now isn’t 

necessarily this cocktail or that cocktail. 

The right drink is always, always, always 

whatever you bloody-well feel like drinking.”


If you prefer a little globe-trotting 

adventure with your booze, there is no 

better companion than Zane Lamprey, 

known as the Indiana Jones of alcohol 

consumption. His book, Three Sheets: 

Drinking Made Easy (Villard Books, 2010), 

is not only packed with trivia about global 

drinks from Champagne in 

France to sake in Japan, but also 

cocktail recipes, drinking games, 

and hangover remedies. In a 

fifteen-country pub crawl, his plea 

to readers is to learn from his book 

and go out and enjoy the libations 

that we’ve read up on. 

Three Sheets is a concise, 

uncomplicated, and informative 

book that reveals all kinds of trivia 

about alcohol, such as why Guinness 

is creamier than other beers and why it 

tastes better in Ireland than anywhere else 

in the world (the ambiance of all those 

charming pubs probably has something 

to do with it). He shares with us his 

research from the smooth flavours of aged 

Appleton rum in Jamaica to a concoction 

made with cobra’s blood and 116-proof 

Taiwanese booze in Taipei. Zamprey’s lone 

North American stop is Las Vegas, not for 

a genuine signature drink, but for all of 

them, since they’re complimentary in this 

city of gustatory plenty. But even Vegas 

can’t compete with the volume 

of different alcohols around the 

world: the Quaich Bar in Scotland 

serves 659 different Scotch 

whiskies, and Belgium produces 

more than 1,000 different beers. 

And then there is a book called 

Drink: A Cultural History of 

Alcohol (Gotham Books, 2008) 

by Iain Gately, an encyclopediasized 

tome of 500 pages that digs 

deep into history to show cultural 

drinking habits throughout time. Indeed, 

Gately would have us believe there isn’t a 

time period that hasn’t been influenced by or 

had an influence on alcohol. His references 

cover all stages of history: the ancient Greek 

customs of offering wine to deities; the slave 

trade in the Caribbean islands contributing 

to the manufacture of rum; the rise of 

California wineries that was spurred on by 

the influx of new money from the Gold Rush 

in the 1850s; the use of bathtubs for making 

home brew during Prohibition. 

The Italian influence goes back to ancient 

Rome, when “wine formed part of the 

rations of Roman legionaries, and a secure 

and increasing supply was necessary to 

support the efforts of ever larger and more 

active armies.” Thus the rise of the Italian 

vineyards. Alcohol rations were also 

common in World War I and often 

issued before and after combat. 

During the gin craze in 18th 

Century England, the legal system 

got involved by taxing liquor sales 

and licensing taverns, to help reel 

in the wayward drunkenness of 

its citizens. 

The most well-known beer 

from China, Tsing Tao, began 

being brewed during Chairman 

Mao’s reign. After the failure of his Communist 

revolution, Tsing Tao was exported to the 

United States to help China’s economy. 

Gately leads us right up to the 1990s, when 

it was revealed on an episode of 60 Minutes 

that the French have healthier hearts than 

Americans because they drink more red 

wine. It was a shocking boon to the industry 

and the revelation that moderate drinking 

leads to better coronary health caused 

American sales of red wine to increase by 

nearly 50% within a month of the show. 

Teetotallers should refrain from picking 

up these books to the same extent they 

abstain from alcohol. For anyone 

who does imbibe on occasion, 

there is plenty to learn, 

historically and practically, 

about your favourite drink. As 

Lamprey writes: “The more we 

understand about how a specific 

alcohol is made, the more we can 

appreciate it. Let’s face it, vodka 

isn’t ‘delicious.’ But learning 

about the distillation process, 

the ingredients, and the history, 

makes it more palatable — even to 

the point where it’s enjoyable.” And if you 

do find yourself putting those New Year’s 

hangovers in the past, it is even more 

enjoyable to flip through the pages of these 

books with a drink in the fist. 

Darin Cook works and plays in Chatham-Kent and 

regularly contributes to eatdrink.



cookbooks 

The Soup Sisters Cookbook 

100 Simple Recipes to Warm Hearts ... One Bowl at a Time 

Edited by Sharon Hapton, with Pierre A. Lamielle 

Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel 

There is nothing more warming than 

a bowl of soup on a cold winter day, 

unless it’s the Soup Sisters in action. 

Started in Calgary by Sharon 

Hapton in 2009, Soup Sisters is an 

organization that, along with Broth 

Brothers, provides comforting bowls of 

homemade soup to women’s shelters and 

youth groups across Canada. 

“A lot of the time the women that come 

through our doors are under tremendous 

stress,” says Colleen Kelly of Women’s 

Community House, as the Soup Sisters in 

London come together one chilly October 

night. “Sometimes they can barely even 

eat, and that’s where the bowls of soup 

make a huge difference. It may seem to a 

lot of people it’s a small thing, but really it’s 

not. A comforting bowl of soup, something 

easy to digest but still with the nutritional 

value that they need, gives women in crisis 

that little bit of energy to make some of the 

difficult decisions facing them.” 

And so once a month a team of 15 to 

25 women come together in the London 

Training Centre’s spacious, professional 

kitchen to stir up some comfort for those in 

need, and to have some fun while doing it. 

The evening ends with a simple sit-down 

dinner of soup, bread and wine. 

Suki Kaur-Cosier of Cooking Matters in 

Covent Garden Market leads the group in 

making three soups, one vegetarian, one 

with meat and one dairy-free. Suki is the 

perfect chef facilitator for these events; she’s 

a fantastic chef, an inspiring teacher, and 

she started a women’s shelter back in her 

native Britain before moving to Canada. 

Her bright personality and positive can-do 

attitude contribute to a wonderful event. 

The Soup Sisters Cookbook is a collection 

of the best tried-and-true recipes the Soup 

Sisters have to offer. Canadian culinary 

greats such as 

Bonnie Stern, Elizabeth 

Baird, Lucy 

Waverman and 

Christine Cushing 

all have recipes 

in the book, 

along with a bevy 

of Soup Sisters from across the country. 

Word of the Soup Sisters great work has 

also spread south of the 49th parallel. Heidi 

Swanson of 101cookbooks.com contributed 

the recipe for Winter Vegetable and Tofu 

Korma. Laden with protein, this delectably 

spiced soup has just the right amount of heat 

to warm a cold winter’s night. Let guests 

dollop in their own yogurt cream topping to 

taste, rather than adding it to the soup before 

serving — preferably with naan bread. 

Anna Olson’s recipe for Hungarian Beef 

Goulash with bacon and authentic csipetke 

(chip-ET-keh), little flour dumplings, 

is hearty and comforting, and smells 

fantastic wafting through the kitchen 

as it simmers. If making csipetke seems 

daunting, egg noodles will do in a pinch. 

The collection of recipes is simple but 

varied, reflecting the myriad of Canadian 

tastes. The book has a section containing 

Essential Equipment and Soup-Making 

Techniques, so you won’t need Suki and her 

professional kitchen to help you replicate 

these delicious recipes. The full-page photos 

are so gorgeous you can practically smell 

the aroma coming right off the page. 

Whether to family and friends or those in 

need, serve up a bowl of comfort from the 

Soup Sisters. 

Jennifer Gagel works as a research assistant at London 

Public Library, and as a business analyst for Cunningham 

MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com.


Hungarian Beef Goulash 

Makes about 4 servings 

3 slices bacon, diced 

1 ½ lb (750 g) boneless blade roast, cut into 

½-inch (1 cm) pieces 

2 onions, diced 

1 large carrot, peeled and diced 

1 parsnip, peeled and diced 

1 stalk celery, diced 

2 tbsp (30 mL) sweet Hungarian paprika 

2 cloves garlic, minced or finely chopped 

2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped fresh thyme 

1 tsp (5 mL) caraway seeds (optional) 

2 bay leaves 

4 cups (1 L) beef stock (use low-sodium if 

store-bought) 

1 can (28 oz/796 mL) diced tomatoes 


Csipetke (see below) 

Sour cream for garnish 

1 Heat a large pot over medium heat. Sauté the 

bacon until crisp. Remove the bacon with a 

slotted spoon and drain on a paper-towellined 

plate. Pour off all but 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the 

bacon fat from the pot. 

2 Increase the heat to high. Brown the beef, in 

batches. Transfer the browned beef to a bowl. 

3 Sauté the onions, carrot, parsnip and celery 

in the same pot over medium heat until the 

onions are softened. 

4 Stir in the paprika, garlic, thyme, caraway seeds 

(if using) and bay leaves. Cook, stirring, for 1 

minute. 

5 Return the beef to the pot, along with the stock 

and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat, 

then reduce the heat to medium-low. 

6 Simmer, covered, until the beef is tender, about 

90 minutes. Remove the 

bay leaves. Add salt and 

pepper to taste. 

7 Prepare the csipetke (see 

below) and add to the 

goulash. 

8 Serve the goulash in 

wide bowls topped with 

dollops of sour cream 

and a scattering of crispy 

bacon. 

Csipetke are Hungarian 

pinched noodles that are 

perfect with the goulash. 

1 Whisk 1 egg lightly, then 

stir in ½ cup (125 mL) 

all-purpose flour and a 

pinch of salt until wellcombined. 

The dough 

should be dense but a 

little stretchy and you 

should be able to pick 

it up and handle it with 

your hands. If it’s too 

dense, add a little water. 

2 Using floured hands, 

pinch off little pea-size 

pieces of the dough and 

drop into the simmering 

goulash. Simmer for 5 

minutes before serving.



Recipes courtesy of The Soup Sisters Cookbook: 100 Simple Recipes to Warm Hearts...One Bowl at a Time, 

edited by Sharon Hapton, with Pierre A. Lamielle (Random House, 2012 $22.95) 

Winter Vegetable and Tofu Korma 

Makes about 4 servings 

1 ¾ tsp (9 mL) ground coriander 

1 ½ tsp (7 mL) turmeric 

1 ½ tsp (7 mL) red chili flakes 

1 ½ tsp (7 mL) ground cumin 

¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cardamom 

¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cinnamon 

2 onions, diced 

2 tbsp (30 mL) ghee or clarified butter 

1 tbsp (15 mL) grated fresh ginger 

4 cloves garlic, minced or finely chopped 

1 ½ lb (750 g) waxy potatoes, peeled and diced 

12 oz (375 g) cauliflower, cut into tiny florets 

2/3 cup (160 mL) toasted sliced almonds, divided 

¾ tsp (4 mL) salt 

½ cup (125 mL) Greek yogurt 

½ cup (125 mL) whipping 

cream (35% MF) 

12 oz (375 g) firm tofu, 

diced or cut into 

matchsticks 

1 small bunch cilantro, 

finely chopped 

1 Combine the coriander, 

turmeric, red chili flakes, 

cumin, cardamom and 

cinnamon in a small 

bowl. Set aside. 

2 In a large pot over 

medium heat, sauté 

the onions in the ghee, 

until the onions are 

softened. 

3 Stir in the ginger, then 

the garlic. Stir in the 

spice mixture and cook 

until the spices are very 

fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. 

4 Stir in the potatoes, 

cauliflower, half of the 

almonds, and the salt. 

5 Add 3 cups (750 mL) 

water and stir gently. 

Bring to a boil over 

high heat, then reduce 

heat to medium-low. 

Simmer, partially 

covered, until the 

potatoes are almost 

cooked, 15 minutes. 

6 Stir in the tofu. Simmer until the potatoes are 

tender and the tofu is heated through, about 5 

minutes. 

7 Meanwhile, stir together the yogurt, cream, and 

a pinch of salt in a bowl. 

8 Reduce the heat to low and add the yogurt 

mixture all at once and bring the pot back just 

to the brink of a simmer. (Or serve the yogurt on 

the side, so people can make their bowl as rich 

as they like.) Add salt to the soup to taste. 

9 Ladle up generous servings topped with 

cilantro and almonds. 

ED note: Grapeseed oil works well in place of the 

ghee.


cookbooks 

Best Recipes of the 

Maritime Provinces 

The Best-Tasting Recipes from 

Home Cooks and Leading Chefs 

Edited by Elizabeth Baird 

Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel 

Elizabeth Baird has been singing 

the praises of Canadian cuisine 

for over 30 years. The former 

food editor of Canadian Living 

magazine and bestselling cookbook 

author has been gently reminding us that 

our own country has much to offer the 

culinary world. In addition to promoting 

Canadian food, she’s long been a supporter 

of Canadian chefs. Baird has introduced us 

to the best and brightest in Canadian food 

over her long and illustrious career. 

When longtime friend and Formac 

publisher James Lorimer approached Baird 

and asked her to help with a “little job,” she 

took on the challenge of wading through 

more than 30 cookbooks containing some 

of the greatest Maritime recipes published 

in the last 25 years. The result was Best 

Recipes of the Maritime Provinces. Baird 

used her extensive knowledge of flavours, 

techniques and regional fare to pare the list 

down to 400 recipes that she felt were most 

representative of the region. 

The task was more than just a matter of 

numbers. Imagine having to choose the one 

best chowder or fish cake recipe from among 

all the regional favorites. The idea would 

make a lesser woman tremble. This icon of 

Canadian cuisine took it on and succeeded. 

One of the biggest trends in food in 

the last few years is the return to the use 

of fresh, local ingredients. One might 

argue that Maritimers have the rest of the 

country at a bit of a disadvantage here. 

Most of us can only dream of having the 

kind of seafood they have available in their 

backyard. And generations of Atlantic 

cooks have learned to make use of these 

beautiful ingredients to create simple, 

elegant 

and stunningly 

delicious food. 

Baird’s next challenge was to take these 

recipes, some of which are over three 

decades old, and edit them for consistency 

in measurement and techniques. 

She chose recipes she felt Canadian cooks 

would most enjoy preparing themselves. 

Baird has always been about making great 

food accessible to the everyday cook. 

Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces 

features a mix of old and new, from Atlantic 

peasant fare such as Rappie, an Acadian 

dish featuring grated potatoes, to modern 

dishes written for a new food-sophisticated 

audience. 

You’ll also see outstanding seafood 

dishes like Salmon à la King with Sweet 

Peas, Leeks and Chopped Egg. This 

Maritime twist on Chicken à la King makes 

a glamorous main course. 

But Maritimers don’t just serve seafood. 

A restaurant in P.E.I., Seasons in Thyme, 

contributed their specialty, Season’s 

Cranberry-Glazed Chicken. Surprisingly 

easy, this entrée will have everyone at the 

table raving for more. 

Introductions to the recipes were mostly 

taken from their original books to allow us 

to hear the voice of the author and enjoy 

the story of how they came to be created. 

It is clear that this is a collaborative effort 

involving Baird, the original recipe writers, 

and the food producers of the region, both 

past and present. 

Ms. Baird’s love of the Atlantic Region 

and of Canada is evident in every page of 

her latest project. In this book she invites 

us to get to know the cooks who created


these wonderful recipes, to hear their stories 

about life, family and food and, in the end, 

to make some of these recipes our own. 


Jennifer Gagel works as a research assistant at London 

Public Library, and as a business analyst for Cunningham 

MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com. 

Recipes are courtesy of Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces: The best tasting recipes from home cooks and leading chefs, 

edited by Elizabeth Baird (Formac, 2012, $29.95) 

Salmon à la King with Sweet Peas, Leeks and Chopped Egg 

Serves 6 

1 package frozen puff pastry 

shells or vol-au-vents 

3 large eggs 

3 tbsp (40 mL) butter 

1 cup (250 mL) sliced white 

of leek 

¼ cup (50 mL) all-purpose 

flour 

½ tsp (2 mL) salt 

¼ tsp (1 mL) white pepper 

¼ cup (50 mL) white wine 

1 cup (250 mL) cold milk 

¼ cup (50 mL) heavy cream 

(35% mf) 

Pinch of nutmeg 

1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh dill 

or tarragon 

1½ pound (750 g) fresh 

salmon fillet, skinned and 

cut into bite-sized chunks 

½ cup (125 mL) frozen peas 

Fresh dill sprigs for garnish 

1 Prepare the puff pastry shells 

as directed on the package. 

(They can be made ahead of 

time and warmed in the oven 

just prior to serving.) 

2 Boil the eggs in water for 

10 minutes and cool under 

running water. Peel the eggs 

and then cut them in half, removing the yolks. 

Chop the whites coarsely and set aside. Grate the 

egg yolks through the finer holes of a grater and 

set aside. 

3 Heat butter in a sauté pan and cook the leeks 

for a few minutes until they wilt and soften. Add 

the flour, salt and pepper and mix well. Cook 

over medium heat for about 3 minutes. 

4 Add the wine, stirring very well. This will form 

a sticky-looking paste as the wine heats. Cook 

this for 3 minutes and then add the milk, 

whisking as the milk heats. 

5 Whisk in the cream, nutmeg and dill. Cook the 

sauce for a few minutes and then add the peas 

and cubed salmon. Cook on medium heat for 

about 10 minutes, gently stirring a few times. 

Fold in the reserved chopped egg white. 

Presentation 

6 Ladle the salmon mixture into the warm pastry 

shells. Pile it high and don’t worry if extra sauce 

spills over onto the plate. Use a teaspoon to 

sprinkle some grated egg yolk over top and 

garnish with a sprig of fresh dill.


Season’s 

Cranberry-Glazed 

Chicken 

Serves 4 

4 chicken breasts, skin on and 

wishbone attached 

12 leaves fresh sage or basil 


3 tbsp (40 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 

Cranberry Glaze 

½ tbsp (8 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 

1 tbsp (15 mL) finely diced shallots 

¼ cup (50 mL) whole cranberries 

½ tbsp (8 mL) finely chopped orange 

zest 

¼ cup (50 mL) white wine 

2 cups (500 mL) chicken stock 

1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter 


1 Pat chicken breasts dry. Gently lift 

the skin and slide 3 herb leaves 

under each so they lie flat between 

the skin and the breast. Season 

breasts with salt and pepper. 

2 Place a sauté pan or deep skillet 

over medium-high heat and add 

oil. Place the breasts in the pan, skin 

side down, and cook approximately 

3 to 5 minutes, until skin is golden. 

Turn and cook an additional 3 

minutes. 

3 Remove breasts and finish off in a 

350°F (180°C) oven until juices run 

clear, 10 to 15 minutes. Allow to 

rest 4 to 6 minutes before carving. 

Drizzle with Seasons’ Cranberry 

Glaze. 

Cranberry Glaze 

4 Heat oil in a small saucepan over 

medium-high heat. Add shallots and 

sauté approximately 1½ minutes, 

being careful not to brown. Add 

cranberries, zest and white wine, 

then reduce by half. Add stock and 

boil to reduce by two-thirds. Swirl 

in butter with a small whisk and 

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A Global Calendar of Holiday Food 

Continued from Page 70 ... 

pictures of La Tomatina and I can’t quite 

figure where the eating of tomatoes takes 

place, but the juice and seeds seem to be 

plastered all over the hordes of participants. 

If you love tomatoes and decide to partake in 

La Tomatina someday, be warned that it has 

also been nicknamed the World’s Biggest 

Food Fight. And the pictures don’t lie. 

September 5 — Rosh Hashanah. This is the 

most important day on the Jewish calendar, 

celebrating the Jewish New 

Year, and another indication 

that some cultures celebrate 

the beginning of New Year 

on different calendars. This 

day begins a period of selfreflection 

and atonement 

for sins, and for some, it 

seems to make sense 

that reflection on sin 

should be done through 

food. Apples dipped in honey are the 

most symbolic food eaten during Rosh 

Hashanah to invoke a sweet year ahead. 

October 1 — National Sake Day. For the 

Japanese, this is the day to celebrate the 

alcohol they are known for, and it coincides 

with the start of the Sake brewing season. 

Having a specific day to commemorate a 

single spirit is a great way to try a drink you 

might not typically order at a bar. 

November 30 — St. Andrew’s Day. Not 

quite as celebrated as the better-known 

saint of Ireland, this day set aside for 

Scotland’s patron, St. Andrew, might be less 

in the international forefront because of 

the local Scottish dishes that are typically 

served. There’s probably a reason it hasn’t 

strayed far from Scotland when you have 

your pick of specialty dishes such as Singed 

Sheep’s Head or Haggis, which consists of 

the organs of a sheep or calf boiled in the 

stomach of the animal. Appetizing! 

December 25 — Christmas Day. The food 

eaten during the Christmas season is 

traditional and comforting, but make 

sure you don’t let the most symbolic food 

item of Christmas overshadow the great 

family meals that come with this holiday. 

I’m referring to Christmas fruitcake. It 

can be good, but more often than not, it’s 

dry, solid as a brick, and tasty as mud. But 

dosed with rum and chased with a shot 

of eggnog, it goes down 

better. Alternatively, 

find someone who 

has a recipe that 

actually tastes good. 

A Twelfth Night 

Cake, traditionally eaten on 

January 5 (the last day of the twelve days of 

Christmas), is flavoured with orange and 

lemon peels, made creamy with buttermilk, 

crunchy with pecans, and topped with a 

rum and orange juice glaze. That sounds 

much better than Aunt Gladys’s fruitcake. 

We tend to overeat on these occasions 

because eating copious amounts of food 

has become a sign of festivity, so here’s 

hoping you indulge in as many of these 

holiday offerings as you can for the sake of 

celebration. 

Darin Cook is eatdrink’s book reviewer. He occasionally gets 

out for a walk on the lighter side of the street.



the lighter side 

A Global Calendar of Holiday Food 

Byy Darin Cook 

W 

ith a flip of the calendar, 

a fresh twelve months are 

beckoning. The year will be 

full of special feasts bringing 

families and ethnic communities together 

to honour certain days of the year. Here 

is a brief look at some upcoming holidays 

— some traditional, some religion-based, 

some unusual, some not even on the Western 

calendar, but all revolve around special 

foods and beverages. 

January 1 — New Year’s Day. Many of 

us start the New Year with as much 

champagne as we can throw down 

our gullets, which immediately 

goes to our heads, causing us to 

make a plethora of unrealistic 

resolutions. Champagne is 

good at making resolutions; 

humans are bad at keeping 

them. And this is why, when 

you do find yourself eating solid 

food between gulps of champagne, 

you should remember to eat some of the 

good-luck foods of various cultures so you 

can tip your destiny in the right direction. 

Several European countries eat cooked 

greens (kale, chard, cabbage, collards) 

on New Year’s Day for the simple reason 

that they look like folded bills of money, 

symbolizing a year of financial success. 

Lentils, beans, and black-eyed peas 

are popular for a similar reason in the 

southern United States — they resemble 

coins. 

February 10 — Chinese New 

Year. This is the most important 

date on the Chinese calendar, 

and your favourite Chinese 

restaurant will be serving 

up some special dumplings 

to celebrate. Dumplings 

are the symbolic food of this 

Chinese holiday because they 

resemble ancient Chinese silver and 

gold currency, so foreshadow a profitable 

future. The greeting for this holiday — 

Gung hay fat choi — means exactly that: 

“May you have good fortune and riches,” 

which is manifested through this symbolic 

food choice. 

February 12 — Shrove Tuesday. This is the 

official name of the beginning of the Easter 

season, but it is also known as Pancake 

Tuesday. In Christian tradition, Lent 

was originally treated as a forty-day fast, 

but modern society has scaled it back by 

abstaining from only certain indulgences. 

Traditionally, pancakes were a practical 

item because they used up the taboo 

foods of eggs, butter and milk that 

shouldn’t be lingering around 

your kitchen during Lent to 

tempt you. Pancake Tuesday is 

one last hoorah with a favourite 

comfort food, knowing that the 

upcoming self-denial will be 

challenging. 

March 17 — St. Patrick’s Day. This 

is just another excuse to drink as much 

alcohol as possible, preferably pints of 

Guinness or shots of whiskey. It usually 

falls within the Lenten season, and 

Catholic communities have traditionally 

been torn. Alcohol is often given up for 

Lent, so what a nasty trick to put this day, 

when Guinness tastes so good, right in 

a period of abstinence. But that hasn’t 

stopped the Irish from taking a reprieve 

from abstaining from any foods they may 

have given up to celebrate their 

patron saint with Irish stew, Irish 

soda bread, and Shamrock salad. 

August 28 — La Tomatina. This 

interesting festival held in Bunol, 

Spain is a celebration of tomatoes. 

Many people visit Pamplona to 

partake in the legendary running 

with the bulls, but going to Bunol is 

less dangerous and a lot messier. I have seen 

Continued on Page 69 ...



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Eatdrink #39 January/February 2013

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