1859_autumn_2011_all_pgs_final_lowres

Gourmet
OREGON
farm dinners • culinary tours • cooking classes

years of excellence

located in Eugene Oregon,
Go! Fight! Win!
Show off your Duck pride with this stylish Oregon Duck brooch. Made in 18 karat gold with
white diamonds, fancy yellow diamonds, tsavorite garnets, mother of pearl, and onyx inlay,
this Oregon Donald Duck is made exclusively at Skeie’s Jewelers in Eugene, Oregon.
Please call us for price and availability.
10 Oakway Center • Eugene, OR 97401 • 541-345-0354 • www.skeies.com
11-894_Skeis Ad.indd 2
8/22/11 6:57 PM

FREE YOUR HOME.
Whether you’re living in a farmhouse, a bungalow or an apartment,
your path to reducing your energy costs is
at
energytrust.org/free. Get started with an Energy Saver Kit,
a Home Energy Review or Fridge Recycling.
+
This is new. This is now. This is free.
Log onto energytrust.org/free or call 1.866.368.7878.
Serving customers of Portland General Electric, Pacific Power,
NW Natural and Cascade Natural Gas.

Autumn 2011
Features
Cover
Matthew Domingo
and wife, Erin Daugherty,
from Farm to Fork
photo by Taylor Schefstrom
This page
Eddy Miller (right) with his twin
sister, Jessie, and father, Charles Jr.
66
Life on the Rogue
The Miller family’s story
76
Let it Roll
Big screen stars Paul Newman,
84
Gallery
Grain elevators as art. Our
88
Gourmet Oregon
A passion for the best food
started on a whim on the
Henry Fonda and Lee Remick
photographer finds the
experiences drove us into the
Rogue in 1928. It became a
brought film to Oregon in the
most scenic stretch of these
heart of Oregon. We found
multigenerational identity for
’70s. Is the industry beginning to
structures along the Heppner
ten tasty dreams that all come
Eddy Miller.
produce again?
Highway in Eastern Oregon.
together around fine cuisine.
by bob woodward
by lucy burningham
by Aubrie Legault
by sarah max

Departments Autumn 2011
110
49
20
45
58
122
In this issue
Around Oregon
20 Notebook
Our holiday gift guide, kissing
bridges and pumpkin patches
30 Road Reconsidered
The Outback Scenic Byway,
Highway 31 into the Great Basin
32 72 Hours in The Gorge
The scenic Columbia River
Gorge in autumn: trails, wine and
waterfalls
39 Restaurant Reviews
1859 anonymously reviews
restaurants around the state
14 Editor's Letter
132 Oregon Postcard
133 Explore Guide
144 Map of Oregon
146 Oregon Quotient
Local Habit
45 Artist in Residence
Lucas Threefoot is learning to fly
as the new soloist at the Oregon
Ballet Theatre
49 From Where I Stand
Dundee, Oregon: Pinot is at its
heart, traffic is on its mind
52 Top 5
Musician Mat Kearney talks
Eugene memories
54 Sound Off
Central Oregon’s Skyline Forest
comes into focus
digital
Ventures
58 Profile
Business acumen and Zen come
together as Two Old Hippies takes
on Breedlove Guitars to rock the
acoustic guitar industry
60 What I’m Working On
OSU doctoral candidate Wei
Wang thinks he can print solar
panels from his inkjet. Why not?
63 Game Changers
As hunger grows, so too does
the intensity of Rachel Bristol,
Oregon Food Bank chief executive
officer
A Steens video journey • Video travel with
Road Reconsidered • Contests for free
lodging • Sweet and savory cider recipes •
Book reviews from the 1859 Literary Cafe •
Oregon Postcard • More photos from Gallery,
Top 5 • Our Home Grown Chef makes
your next tasty meal (video)
www.1859magazine.com
96
Food & Home
102 Farm to Table
The traditional French and British
ciders come of age in two Willamette
Valley orchards
109 Home Grown Chef
Tangy puckering chicken thighs in
an apple cider sauce
110 Design
Two kitchen remodels bring
together strange bedfellows with
stunning results. PLUS Best
kitchen salvage finds
Outdoors
102
122 Adventures
Into the Steens: The desert beauty
reveals many faces, including a
lush green interior with rivers,
lakes and wildflowers galore
130 Athlete Profile
Predictions from quarterbacks
Darron Thomas and Ryan Katz

Every party ends up in the kitchen.
It’s the new living room. Is your kitchen ready for guests?
At George Morlan Plumbing, our experts can help you create a space that is inviting,
functional and fun. With the Northwest largest selection of plumbing fixtures,
parts and supplies, all at the lowest prices, you’ll be ready to party.
George Morlan Plumbing Supply
“If It’s Plumbing, We Have It!”® • Since 1927
NW and SE Portland • Tigard • Salem • Bend • Warrenton • Lincoln City
www.georgemorlan.com

kevin max
editor
sarah max
executive editor
c r e a t i v e d i r e c t o r
Aimée Jameson
e d i t o r i a l a s s i s t a n t
Brandi Liggett
Michele Pryse
OSU Extension volunteer
Central Point
d e s i g n a s s i s t a n t
Guy Olson
c o n t r i b u t i n g w r i t e r s
Rachel Bucci, Lucy Burningham, Jennifer Cossey,
Lisa Glickman, Shirley Hancock, Tina Lassen,
Peter Murphy, Edwin Ouelette, Bob Woodward
Michele knows there’s more to canning than filling jars.
As an OSU Extension Master Food Preserver, she teaches
people how to safely preserve food, saving money and
sometimes saving lives.
From food preservation to 4-H, financial planning to
Master Gardeners, OSU Extension provides practical
education you can use to solve problems, develop skills,
and build a better future.
c o n t r i b u t i n g p h o t o g r a p h e r s
Joni Kabana, Aubrie LeGault, Carol Sternkopf,
Vernon T. Williams
a r t i s t s k e t c h e s
Paul Harris
503.278.5493 / portland
541.550.7081 / central oregon
541.306.6510 / fax
s e n d y o u r c o m m e n t s t o
letters@1859magazine.com
f o l l o w 1 8 5 9 o r e g o n ’ s m a g a z i n e
o n
In your community and online at:
extension.oregonstate.edu
w w w . 1 8 5 9 m a g a z i n e . c o m

heather huston johnson
co-publisher
ross johnson
co-publisher
a d v e r t i s i n g a c c o u n t e x e c u t i v e s
Julie Intlekofer, Kristie La Chance
o f f i c e a s s i s t a n t
Candyce Myers
c o r p o r a t e s u b s c r i p t i o n s
Cammie Huston
c o m m u n i c a t i o n s d i r e c t o r
Claudia Johnson
n e w s s t a n d c o n s u l t a n t
Gary Judy
Judy Publishing Services, Inc.
t e c h s p e c i a l i s t
David Browning
p u b l i s h e d b y
Deschutes Media, LLC
70 SW Century Dr., Suite 100-335
Bend, Oregon 97702
503.278.5493 / portland
541.550.7081 / central oregon
541.306.6510 / fax
s u b s c r i p t i o n s 1859magazine.com
w w w . 1 8 5 9 m a g a z i n e . c o m
deschutes MEDIA
FUN
Ad funded by LeAvenworth AreA Promotions
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or
any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of
Deschutes Media, LLC. Articles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon's Magazine may
not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher.
1859 Oregon's Magazine and Deschutes Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited
materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily
those of 1859 Oregon's Magazine, Deschutes Media, or its employees, staff or management.
Deschutes Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally
responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable way. This issue of 1859 Magazine
was printed by American Web on recycled paper using inks containing blend of soy
base. Our printer is a certified member of the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) and
the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), and meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation
Recovery Act (RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please
pass it on to a friend or recycle it. We can have a better world if we choose it together.

$700,000
$70,000
Find more value. Owning an exotic car that goes zero to sixty in a heartbeat would no doubt be exhilarating.
For that same feeling on a grander level, you could use a fraction of those dollars to give hundreds of kids the
educational support they need to really accelerate. The Oregon Community Foundation can help you create a
charitable fund for the causes you care most about. Learn more at 503.227.6846 or visit us at www.oregoncf.org.

From
the Editor
IT IS WELL DOCUMENTED THAT 1859 Oregon’s
Magazine doubles a reader’s IQ. Now, however,
those enriched readers with their newly inflated intellects
and travel itineraries have gone off the rails
with such persistent questions as: “I read 1859’s
Bucket List and loved it. Now, how do I do it?”
It’s not often that we get to talk about major new
partnerships that revolutionize the way 1859 readers
explore Oregon, but we got one. For the past six
months, 1859 has been working behind the scenes
with our new Oregon travel booking partner to answer
that question.
These conversations resulted in new technology
and a simple website designed around the best Oregon
travel experiences. With this issue, we launch
1859 Explore, a reservation-booking portal that
ties stories in the magazine with recreational and
cultural opportunities. Introducing the read-aboutit-then-do-it
Oregon travel experience at 1859magazine.com.
This passport gets its first stamp with
“Gourmet Oregon” on page 88.
In “Gourmet Oregon,” we explore the best culinary
experiences across the food spectrum in a
state that’s, rightly, food crazed. Resurgent are the
farms, ranches and kitchens that America once depended
on for good food. From Farm to Fork events
throughout the state to cheese-making in the Willamette
Valley, a Spanish-themed aprés ski dinner
in Bend and instructional gourmet dinners on the
coast, this is a feast for foodies.
It seems a stark juxtaposition with the foodie
piece, but, as the holidays approach (and long after
they’re gone), it’s nice to know that Rachel Bristol is
doing the most good for the most people at the Oregon
Food Bank. As she has for two decades, Bristol
has seen the need and the hunger among Oregon
families rise. Forget, for a moment, the ongoing
challenges of disappearing safety nets, the erosion
of solid manufacturing jobs or spiraling budget
deficits. In “A Growing Need” on page 63, we learn
what the world looks like from Bristol’s perspective.
In these troubled times, the Oregon Food Bank
needs our support. There are many ways to donate to
the food bank including food, money and time. We’ve
added one more. We will donate $10 to the Oregon
Food Bank for every new 1859 subscription that comes
to us through www.1859magazine.com/foodbank.
If you’ve driven past The Steens in the desert of
southeast Oregon, you may never roll down the
window let alone step foot outside. There’s heat,
rattlesnakes, sagebrush and countless other insurmountable
excuses for motoring on. I’m with you.
Even the word “desert” scares me. What scares me
more is ignorance. On a recent dare, I took to The
Steens in an eye-opening four-day, forty-mile bushwhack
from the Alvord Desert to outside of Frenchglen.
At several points along that route, there was so
much green and water that I could very well have been
in Hawaii. Be prepared to update your own Steens impressions
by reading “Into the Steens” on page 122.
Finally, I never knew Eddy Miller but wish I had.
He lived life on the Rogue River, paddled standing
up like old-time river guides, and chased the dreams
and shadows of his father and grandfather. The story
of Eddy and his predecessors on the Rogue is one of
spontaneity, simplicity and beauty. While he was exploring
another river in 2009, Eddy fell to his death at
age 56. An amazing legacy unfolds on page 66 in our
tribute to his way of life, “Happy Hill.”
Kevin Max
kevin@1859magazine.com
14 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
S

Funding progress, one idea at a time.
At Bank of the Cascades, we‘re helping our communities get moving again—with
loans to meet your personal, business, commercial real estate and residential
mortgage needs. Let’s talk about how we can help you move forward. Stop by,
visit botc.com or give us a call at (877) 617-3400.
SERVING CENTRAL OREGON, SOUTHERN OREGON, PORTLAND/SALEM and BOISE/TREASURE VALLEY

Contributors
Lucy Burningham
Lucy Burningham is a writer who
lives and works in Portland. She
has covered food, drink and culture
for a variety of local and national
publications, including The New York
Times, Saveur, Sunset, BBC Travel
and Lonely Planet guidebooks. For
this issue of 1859, she uncovered the
breadth of Oregon’s film industry (“Let
it Roll”) which inspired one home
screening of The Goonies.
YOU CAN GET THERE
WE CAN HELP
Bob Woodward
Bob’s all-over-the-map resumè
includes editorial stints at
Times-Mirror Magazines, CBS
Magazines, and The New York
Times Magazine Group as well
as serving as Bend’s mayor (1997-
1999), running ski camps, being
a member of the Screen Actors
Guild, fathering a bunch of kids
and trying to stay fit. Woody,
a paddler of note himself, was
along with Eddy Miller on his last
Rogue run.
OCSP_1859_Pilot_f.indd 1
8/5/11 4:55 PM

Aubrie LeGault
The best present Aubrie ever
received was a Minolta X-700 and
an Ansel Adams photography
book. She fell in love with
photography and decided on a
career in photojournalism. She
has worked for newspapers and
magazines in the Midwest and
Oregon. Her landscape photographs
(capturinggrace.com) can be found
in hotels around Portland. Her
favorite thing to do is jump in a car,
turn up the radio, roll the windows
down and drive out to the middle of
nowhere to document the beautiful
state of Oregon. That is exactly what
she did with this issue’s Gallery,
“Grain Elevators.”
COLLEGE
Vernon T. Williams
Governors, presidential candidates,
mayors, comedians, musicians,
cabinet members, a Nobel prize
winner and a Terminator. These are
just some of the subjects Vernon
has photographed over the last
twenty years. Resettling in Eugene
has allowed Vernon the time to
devote to his wife and son (and their
three dogs), but he’s always looking
for the next challenge. This issue we
sent him after two quarterbacks and
a particularly inventive graduate
student.
YOU CAN GET THERE
WE CAN HELP
Rachel Bucci
From her home in Salem, writer
Rachel Bucci travels frequently
throughout the Pacific Northwest.
Depending on the whims of her
family, you might find her crabbing
on Siltez Bay, browsing a museum,
whizzing down the slopes at Hoodoo
or picking cherries in Mosier. When
she’s not working up an appetite,
she’s likely satisfying it at a local food
cart or brew pub. Rachel tapped her
culinary interests to write a piece for
us on two interesting cider-makers
in the Willamette Valley.
OregonCollegeSavings.com
OCSP_1859_Grad.indd 1
8/5/11 4:56 PM

At the heart of historic Astoria, Oregon a new future is growing. Fort George Brewery
is expanding and now occupies and enlivens an entire city block. This growth is due
in part to funding from the Oregon Lottery. The state economic development agency,
Business Oregon, assisted the company with Lottery funds that helped build a new
8000 sq. ft. production facility, purchased the canning line, and added cold storage
that enabled them to ramp up their business. The result has been not just a darn
tasty IPA, but the addition of jobs, and a restored vibrancy and life to the community.
To learn more visit www.ItDoesGoodThings.org. Lottery games are based on chance and should be played for entertainment only.
OWIN3960_FortGeorge_1859_9x10.875.indd 1
8/24/11 3:19 PM

Around Oregon
Places,
People, >>
Restaurant
Reviews
20 What’s New?
New digs for Eugene
and butcher shops
22 Do & See
Pumpkins and kissing bridges
26 Culture
Fall and winter festivals
28 Gift Guide
Our holiday gift ideas
30 Road Reconsidered
Oregon Outback
Highway 31
32 72 Hours in the Gorge
The best way to play
in the Gorge
39 Restaurant Reviews
Seafood in the spotlight
Do & See
Flying through the Central
Oregon Pumpkin Company
near Smith Rock.

What’s New?
submit what’s new? item’s at 1859magazine.com/notebook
Around Oregon
>> 1859 Covergirl Gets Rodeo Reality Show
Discovered on the cover of our spring 2010 issue, rodeo champion Stevie Rae Willis became the focus of a Comcast SportsNet
reality TV show, “Stompin’ Ground.” The new rodeo program premiers on televisions across Oregon in February (CSNNW.
com) and will feature Willis, a Northwest Professional Rodeo Association (NPRA) all-around champion from 2007-2010. The
program will follow the Willises on their ranch in Terrebonne and on the road, giving viewers a glimpse of a working rodeo
family.
>> Praise McMenamins
McMenamins opened its newest Wilsonville addition to the family
of fifty pub properties. Once more, beer, food, music, and movies
come together in a cool renovation called the Old Church & Pub,
located in Old Town Square. Enjoy a new 5,000-square-foot pub;
a renovated century-old church, an on-site seven-barrel brewery
system and an outdoor amphitheater that will blaze live music
through the summer and fall. Dinners, tastings and televised sporting
events are also on the agenda. mcmenamins.com
>> Eugene’s New Digs
Eugene, a college town
known for its athleticism
and hippie culture,
rolls out the red
carpet in December for
guests at its new Inn
at the 5th. The boutique
hotel (innat5th.
com), located on the
northwest corner of
the Fifth Street Public Market in downtown, will feature sixty-nine
pet-friendly rooms, including five suites with living rooms, four terrace
spa suites and a grand terrace suite. All rooms have balconies
or window seats, dual sinks, dry bars, pantries, gas fireplaces, safes
and wi-fi access. Other amenities include Aveda-certified pampering
provided by Gervais Salon & Spa; a fitness room, plus complimentary
use of the Downtown Athletic Club; a historic shopping
center; and in-room dining catered by Marché Restaurant.
>> Butcher Shops
A New York Times article, “Young Idols With Cleavers Rule the Stage” published
July 2009, predicted a nation-wide rise in boutique butcher shops.
Author Kim Severson observed that “butchery skills began to recede in the
1960s, when beef and pork, already cut and boxed, started arriving at supermarkets,”
but the trend reversed “with the rise of locally raised meat
and the popularity of so-called cut-offs.” According to Severson, cities like
New York, San Francisco and New Orleans are at the heart of a meat-forthe-people
butchery bolshevism. Tanya Steel, executive editor of Epicurious.com,
agrees, citing the increase of the number of butcher shops in
New York alone. Oregon, a pioneer in fresh foods, is certainly not exempt.
High demand for grass-fed beef straight from the farm has initiated a fad
for the middle man.
HERE ARE A FEW ADDITIONS AROUND THE OREGON BUTCHERY BLOCK
Pono Farm, Bend
ponofarm.com | 541.330.6328
Central Oregon Butcher Boys, Prineville
541.447.0334
The Butcher Shop, Eagle Point
541.830.3369
Laurelhurst Market Butcher Shop, Portland
laurelhurstmarket.com | 503.206.3099
South Umpqua Custom Meat, Myrtle Creek
541.839.6500
>> Remembering Pearl Harbor
December 7, 1941 is a date etched in the minds of most Americans. For the
past fifteen years Seaside resident and 90-year-old WWII veteran William
“Bill” Thomas has led a memorial ceremony in Seaside, and in 2000, led the
fight to rename a local bridge the Pearl Harbor Memorial Bridge. This year,
on the 70th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor, the December ceremony
will included speakers, a presentation of the colors by active military
personnel, the tossing of a wreath in the Necanicum River and a U.S. Coast
Guard flyover at 10:55 a.m., when Pearl Harbor was attacked. Honor Thomas
and other veterans in memory of our country’s heroes.
20 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Do & See
submit do & see item’s at 1859magazine.com/notebook
6 Places to Play
in the Pumpkins
Heiser Farms, Dayton
1 heiserfarms.com
2
Rasmussen Farms, Hood River
3 rasmussenfarms.com
4
5
6
Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm, Woodburn
woodenshoe.com
Bauman’s Farm and Garden, Gervais
baumanfarms.com
Central Oregon Pumpkin Co., Terrebonne
pumpkinco.com
Mahaffy Ranch Pumpkin Patch, Coos Bay
facebook.com/mahaffyranch
By the numbers
The State of Cranberry
Cranberries produced
>> in the U.S. in 2010
Cranberries produced
>> in Oregon in 2010
151>>
Number of cranberry
farms in Oregon
2,770>>
Number of acres in
7,350,000 barrels
385,000 barrels
production in Oregon
22 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
Featured Events
Around Oregon
5
Oregon Kissing Bridges >>
Drive Oregon’s back roads and it’s likely you’ll find at least one enchanting covered
bridge (or romantically put, kissing bridge). When you do, stop and relish
the moment—this is a piece of American history. The covered bridge tradition
dates back to the 1850s when Oregon’s very own pioneers built these bridges
using Douglas fir, an ample and well-suited source at that time. They covered
the timber beams with house-like structures to protect them from the wet climate.
Between 1905 and 1925, Oregon had 450 of these bridges. By 1977 though,
the number faded to a mere fifty-six. Today, Oregon has fifty drivable kissing
bridges. If you’re planning a Northwest road trip, make sure this dying species
is on your must-see list. Here are a few of our favorites from the Covered Bridge
Society of Oregon.
CEDAR CROSSING | METRO PORTLAND
From I-205, take the Foster Road east exit. Turn south on SE 134 to Deardorf Road
and drive for a half mile. Cedar Crossing is on Deardorf Road over Johnson Creek.
ROCK O’ THE RANGE | CENTRAL OREGON
On Highway 97, drive two miles north of Bend. Rock O’ The Range is located on
Bowery Lane, west of Highway 97.
CHITWOOD | OREGON COAST
From I-5, take exit 228 headed towards Corvallis. Go west for thirty-eight miles on
Highway 20 through Philomath. Chitwood borders Highway 20 near milepost 17.
ROCHESTER | SOUTHERN OREGON
Take Highway 138 west from Sutherlin and drive approximately two miles to
Sterns Lane. Turn north on Sterns Lane to Rochester Road. Rochester is just north
of the intersection of Sterns Lane and Rochester Road.
PENGRA | WILLAMETTE VALLEY
From I-5 take Highway 58 east to Parkway Road. Once on Parkway Road, go north
to the community of Jasper. Turn southeast on Jasper-Lowell Road and drive for
about three miles. Go east on Little Falls Creek Road and travel a quarter mile to
Place Road until you reach Pengra.
MEET THE PIONEERS October 14-15
Take a stroll in Jacksonville’s Historic Cemetery and Meet the Pioneers—a one-hour
tour that rings in the harvest season with tales of traveling west to Oregon told by folks
dressed in late 1800s garb. friendsjvillecemetery.org
SUMPTER VALLEY RAILROAD FALL FOLIAGE PHOTO TRAIN October 15-16
Enjoy a ride on the Sumpter Valley Railroad for a one- to two-day journey of fall foliage
photo ops throughout Eastern Oregon. svry.com
APPLEGATE VALLEY UNCORKED November 20
Tour fifteen wineries in Applegate Valley for appetizers paired with the best wine from
each. applegatewinetrail.com
HOLIDAY LIGHTS AT SHORE ACRES November 24-December 31
In Charleston, Shore Acres State Park’s seven-acre botanical gardens sparkle with more
than a quarter million lights during the holiday season. shoreacres.net
CHRISTMAS IN THE COUNTRY AT PHILIP FOSTER FARM December 10-11
Take pictures with Santa, play among the Christmas trees and indulge in free cookies and
cider to the sound of carolers at Philip Foster Farm in Eagle Creek. philipfosterfarm.com
For our complete Calendar, go to 1859magazine.com

Culture
submit cultural items at 1859magazine.com/notebook
Fall & Winter Festivals
Around Oregon
SISTERS HARVEST FAIRE
>>
October 8-9, Sisters will be celebrating the harvest season with a downtown festival
on Hood Avenue. Sponsored by the Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce, the
Sisters Harvest Faire (sisterscountry.com) takes place 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Savor food,
live entertainment and vendors selling quality handcrafted items. Admission is
free.
FALL KITE FESTIVAL IN LINCOLN CITY
If sand, wind and kites are your thing, Lincoln City is the place to be. October 8-9,
the city will host the Fall Kite Festival (oregoncoast.org)—a gathering of kite-aholics
and those who like to watch. Meet at the D-River Wayside from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
for featured fliers, kite-making, a kid’s kite parade and kite battle. Admission is free.
Oregon Book Review
In the 1975 book, The Oregon Experiment, architect
Christopher Alexander proposed changes in community
planning at the University of Oregon in the wake of student
and faculty protests against the Vietnam War. In his new
novel, The Oregon Experiment (Knopf), Keith Scribner is
more interested in characters and their relationships than
activism. An East Coast couple, Scanlon and Naomi Pratt,
has no intention of actually staying in Douglas, Oregon,
but Naomi is pregnant and the only job Scanlon can find
teaching radical and mass movement studies is in Douglas.
He joins a local secessionist movement under the guise of
studying the grassroots efforts to keep Oregon resources
and tax dollars at home. Scanlon and Naomi’s intimate
involvement with the Douglas secessionists and one lone
anarchist puts family and friends in danger, and a very
different Oregon Experiment has grave consequences.
>>
Reviewed by
Claudia Hinz
Go to
1859magazine.com’s
Literary Cafe
for the full review
24 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN of 2011 The Oregon Experiment
AUTUMN FALL COLORS FESTIVAL AT MT. HOOD
Take in the season’s color exposition with a train ride through the Hood River
Valley. The Autumn Fall Colors Festival (mthoodrr.com), put on by the Mt. Hood
Railroad, is scheduled for departure at 10 a.m. on October 15 and 16. This is a fourhour
tour that will include a one-hour layover in Parkdale for live music, crafts and
a showcase of work produced by local and regional artists. (Adults $35, seniors $31,
children $23).
YACHATS CELTIC MUSIC FESTIVAL
The Oregon Coast plans to bring in a bit of Irish and Scottish tradition with its Yachats
Celtic Music Festival (yachatscelticmusicfestival.com) November 11-13. Listen to
accomplished musicians like the Hanz Araki Band, Kevin Auld and AnnaLee Foster
among others, while relishing special dishes provided by local restaurants. This
event is at the Yachats Commons.
SILVER FALLS CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL, SUBLIMITY
Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity celebrates the holiday season December 11-12
with its very own Christmas Festival (oregonfestivals.org). Join Santa and park staff
for live music, story-telling for kids and an opportunity to make a wreath, a gingerbread
house, cards and ornaments from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. $5/car.
HOLIDAY ALE
FESTIVAL,
PORTLAND
Drink and be merry at the Holiday
Ale Festival (holidayale.
com) in Portland November
30-December 4. Walk warmly
amidst gas heaters while staying
dry beneath a clear top
tent that covers Pioneer Courthouse
Square. Brewers make
more than fifty winter ales for
this event. Also enjoy on-site
food, mead tasting and festival
goodies available for purchase.
A tasting package costs $25 at
the door and includes a souvenir
mug and ten beer tickets.
Keep your mug and wristband
for free re-entry the following
four days.

Ashland Springs Hotel
Built in 1925 & recently renovated landmark
located in downtown Ashland offers
70 guest rooms with all modern amenities,
charming banquet spaces and English Garden.
EXPERIENCE OREGON FALL
N ATURE
AT OUR
I NSPIRED
H OTEL,RESTAURANT,
S PA & SALON
212 E MAIN S T • ASHLAND • 541.488.1700
A SHLANDS PRINGSH OTEL. COM
A variety of thoughtfully
developed packages combine
comfortable surroundings of
our hotel guest rooms with
such attractions as
Waterstone Spa & Salon
treatments, meals at
Larks Restaurant, tickets to
the Cabaret, Oregon
Shakespeare Festival,
rafting, wine tasting, and
other local attractions.
So many things to do.
So many sunny days to do them.
PAC AM GOLF CLASSIC
AUGUST 27 – 31, 2012.
Skiing. Golfing. Hiking. Biking. Fly-fishing. White water rafting. Whatever you and your family
are into, you’ll find it in Central Oregon. Blessed with 300 sunny days a year, Central Oregon
is renowned for its outdoor recreation. And like any world-class destination, it has the resorts,
gourmet dining, and indulgent day spas to back it up. Get more adventure for your money.
And go on the Greatest Vacation on Earth. Get our free 76-page Official Visitors Guide
by calling 800-800-8334 or go to VisitCentralOregon.com for more information.
everything under the sun
5165 COVA half page UPDATE.indd 1 9/8/11 12:07 PM

>>
Tribute Series
Blankets
>>
Cowboy Boot
Purses
Bundle up in one of four
new blankets added to the
Pendleton Tribute Series—
a collection (pendleton-usa.
com) that envelops the Native
American tradition. Racine
Woolen Mills Tribute #2, $208
Made out of her husband’s
old leather boots, Sue Roake
of Gresham is creating custom
purses and handbags
that tell a cowboy’s story
(diamond57.com). Pink and
Brown Cowboy Purse, $395
Crosby & Taylor Measuring Cups and Spoons
Measure up with a set of pewter measuring cups and spoons from Crosby & Taylor
(crosbyandtaylor.com) in Eugene—legendary home cook, Paula Deen, has. Lead-free
Pewter Vineyard Measuring Spoons, $79
>>
The Kid-friendly
Coast Package
Head to the coast for some family fun and discover what Newport has for the kids.
There’s more than just sea breeze and sand. Undersea Gardens, Ripley’s Believe It
or Not! and The Wax Works. For all three attractions, (adults $23.99, kids $13.99).
For more information, go to marinersquare.com. Of course, there’s the Oregon
Coast Aquarium and its Giant Pacific Octopus exhibit, (adults $15.95, kids $9.95).
Marine Discovery Tours Sea Life Cruise (marinediscovery.com) offers whale watching
during its high season mid-December to mid-January (adults $36, kids $18).
marinersquare.com
>>
ON3P Skis
It’s time to prepare for the mountain.
If you’re a skier, there’s no better place
to do that than ON3P Skis in Portland
(on3pskis.com)—an independent company
that specializes in ski manufacturing.
Filthy Rich, $599
26 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Opening February 2012
Tour our new home at
www.legacyhealth.org/newhome
AD-0669 ©2011

Holiday Spa Packages
EUGENE | BRIA Bodycare Day Spa | briabodycare.com
Chocolate and berries facial and pedicure
$100 (Regular $160)
>>
SISTERS | Shibui Spa | shibuispa.com
One-hour Swedish massage, hot stone upgrade for added healing
benefit, specialty peppermint tea tin, use of all spa amenities
the entire day of your treatment including a rejuvenating thermal
hot soaking tub, sauna and relaxation room, $100 ($129 value)
PORTLAND | Kanani Pearl Spa | kananipearl.com
Body renewal and detox, Endermologie massage (60 min.),
cleansing steam, volcanic clay body wrap, ($248, includes gratuity)
ASHLAND | The Blue Giraffe Day Spa and Salon in
collaboration with Plaza Inn & Suites and Liquid Assets
Wine Bar & Restaurant | bluegiraffespa.com
Two nights lodging, massage and dinner for two
$295 (Regular $474)
CANNON BEACH | Cannon Beach Spa | cannonbeachspa.com
A sauna, a rockweed algae scrub, a seaweed facemask and full-body
deep tissue massage, plus a bag of Moonstruck chocolate, ($315)
photo by Jill Rosell
>>
Tasting Room
PONZI VINEYARDS, BEAVERTON | 2008 Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve | $60
Notes of violet and tobacco with spiced blackberry and raspberry, while well-integrated tannins and
the taste of Bing cherries make for a silky finish. Goes well with beef-dominated meals and chocolate
desserts.
ARBORBROOK VINEYARDS, NEWBERG | 2009 Estate 777 Block Pinot Noir | $45
Begins with rich dark raspberries, blackberries and leather, and ends with hints of soft oak, cassis and
anise. Pair with roasted game, lamb stew, or duck breast lathered in cherry glaze.
ADELSHEIM VINEYARD, NEWBERG | 2010 Adelsheim Vineyard Pinot Gris | $19
Has a mouth-filling texture and long finish, while highlighting notes of papaya, apples and pears, making
this a crisp and clean choice. Pair with classic oven-roasted fowl.
DEL RIO VINEYARDS AND WINERY, GOLD HILL | 2009 Viognier | $20
Lends a slight lemon characteristic with smooth texture, while displaying aromas of peach, grapefruit
and fresh mint flavors. Pair with spicy foods such as Thai, Moroccan, and cheese and nuts.
CATHEDRAL RIDGE WINERY, HOOD RIVER | 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon | $32
Smooth tannins and a long finish, tastes of blackberry, blueberry and warm vanilla spice fill the mouth.
Big tannins pair well with fatty red meats such as lamb, as well as mushrooms, mozzarella and brie.
ABACELA | Tempranillo Reserve 2007 | $45
A balanced Spanish varietal from the upcoming Southern Oregon Umpqua Valley brings a lengthy finish
that pairs well with the traditional holiday hams and turkeys.
28 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Sip ‘n stay awhile
Coconuts @ Full Circle
Coffee Art Chocolate Wine
Historic Nye Beach, Newport

Into the
Outback
Around Oregon road reconsidered
BRACKETED BY VIEWS OF MT. BACHELOR AND THE ABERT RIM, the Outback Scenic Byway
is a sinuous ribbon of asphalt that carries travelers on an adventure of sights, sounds
and smells. Traveling the Outback Scenic Byway, or Highway 31, isn’t so much a drive as
it is a geological experience. This stretch of Oregon is best experienced at low speeds.
by Peter Murphy
What we today call the Outback Scenic Byway didn’t start out as a paved
pathway. Likely the first to use it were the wild animals that called the Great
Basin home. Today, the Great Basin is one of the largest open spaces in North
America. During the last Ice Age, the Great Basin harbored a huge inland
sea. As the glaciers receded, the land rose, drained and dried. A tropical savannah
evolved, full of flora and fauna including mammoth, bison, camel
and horses. Those animals strode the shoreline and created the first paths
along the western escarpment that forms the backdrop for the Outback Scenic
Byway today.
Nomads followed wildlife to the trails along the edges of Silver Lake and
Summer Lake, the diminutive remnants of the shallow Ice Age sea. Modern
archaeologists date the arrival of the first Americans to about 10,000 years
ago, their artifacts found near the remarkable geologic feature of Fort Rock.
European settlers arrived in the late 1800s to try their hand at dry-land
farming, but most failed in the arid desertscape. Their descendants today
survive by cattle ranching for the most part. It’s the cattle trails that pioneers
developed along the original wildlife paths that created the path of Highway
31. In a fitting reminder of that history, motorists sometimes find themselves
delayed by cattle drives today along the highway that remains a bovine thoroughfare,
as stockmen move their herds from seasonal ranges.
The Outback Scenic Byway begins just south of La Pine at its intersection
with Highway 97. If you’re driving south on a clear day, you’ll want to turn
around at about milepost 3 for a great view of Mt. Bachelor and South Sister.
The highway appears to penetrate the base of the mountains.
Dodging in and out of the Fremont–Winema National Forest, the Deschutes
National Forest and the Fremont National Forest, the highway
weaves out of the forested steppes and into the open plains of the Great
Basin. At milepost 22, stop to see Hole-in-the-Ground, a 300-foot-wide,
one-mile-deep volcanic crater.
The next stop of note on the road itself is the Fort Rock Historical Marker
at about milepost 29.
Motorists can continue along 31, or take the short detour on an eastbound
leg of the Outback Scenic Byway to Fort Rock. Fort Rock is what was left behind
when a volcano exploded and its rocky debris fell back to earth around
the circular cone. It filled with water, but the pressure burst its southern wall.
In 1938, archaeologist Luther Cressman found dozens of sagebrush sandals
near here, dating from 9,000 to 13,000 years ago. At the time, they were the
oldest Native American artifacts found in the New World.
Here at Fort Rock, travelers can get a feel of what life was like back in the
pioneer days by touring the Fort Rock Homestead Village Museum.
Opened in 1988 with the help of settlers’ descendents, the museum provides
a great hands-on experience of what early settler life was like. There’s the Fred
Stratton Home, the former St. Rose of Lima Roman Catholic Church and
lots of other buildings that housed the first pioneers. Walk around outside,
get dirty and get a feel for life on the Great Basin. In the reception center,
volunteers tell tales from the old days, and visitors can peruse the artifacts
and gift shop. The old windmill still pumps water, and there’s rarely a lack of
wind to make it spin.
Silver Lake and its rustic dwellings greet motorists a bit south of milepost
46. Don’t miss the sign at milepost 47 directing travelers west to the Cowboy
Dinner Tree restaurant. It’s about five miles west of the highway on East Bay
Road and worth the trip. The Cowboy Dinner Tree lies halfway along the
cattle drive from seasonal ranges where a chuck wagon was set up to churn
out buckaroo beans and biscuits.
Today Connie and Don Ramage serve up a cowboy dinner like no other.
The buckaroo beans and biscuits from the old days are still a part of the meal.
Toss in a whole chicken or two-plus pounds of sirloin, and cowboy, you’ve
got yourself a real meal. Don starts early putting a secret recipe rub on the
30 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

E. Bay Rd.
97
road reconsidered
Around Oregon
97
31
La Pine
MILE
22
Hole-in-the-Ground
1
MILE
29
Fort Rock Rd.
Fort Rock
State Park
Fort Rock
2
Homestead
Village
Museum
Christmas
Valley
31
MILE
47
Silver Lake
photos by Peter Murphy
OPPOSITE PAGE Volcanic crater
Fort Rock at milepost 22.
LEFT Connie Ramage bakes
biscuits at Cowboy Dinner Tree.
3
Cowboy Dinner Tree
Summer Lake
Wildlife Area
Summer Lake
steaks, and then he gets to work on the whole chickens.
Before long, the chicken is roasting and the steaks
are grilling. Meanwhile, Connie is inside making her
famous cowboy beans and biscuits. It’s about as close
to a real life cowboy experience as many city-slickers
will get. Don’t forget that reservations are required.
Travelers can spend the night if they wish, and awaken
to the sights and sounds of the Oregon high desert.
Milepost 54 brings travelers in sight of Table Rock.
It’s another remnant of a geologic era gone by. Like
Fort Rock, it was formed when a volcano exploded,
but it’s nearly the reverse image. Rising sharply from
the desert floor, Table Rock makes for an impressive
circular volcanic monolith, a maar topped off by a surface
level enough to play marbles.
Picture Rock Pass, aptly named for the ancient
petroglyph nearby, divides the northern highway
from its southern partner. Looking north, the highway
rolls down along the mountainside where Table
Rock peeks around the corner. To the south lies Summer
Lake, so named by U.S. Army explorer Lt. John
C. Fremont, who sought an escape from a nearly fatal
winter encampment on the mountain rim to the west.
Just south of milepost 69 is a memorial to that expedition
in 1843.
Summer Lake Hot Springs is squeezed between
the lake of the same name and the highway at milepost
92. Its natural hot springs, scenic setting, starry nights
and vast expanses invite travelers to stop and relax
with the rhythm of the desert. Heated to about 106
degrees by the same natural forces that shaped this region
eons ago, water rises here from nearly a mile below
the surface. Its mineral content is said to provide
therapeutic benefits. The water is channeled to indoor
and outdoor pools, where visitors can soak in views of
the top of the Great Basin.
Motorists can find food, fuel and fun at milepost 98,
where the highway turns a corner in Paisley. Known,
in part, for its annual Mosquito Festival, Paisley is the
only town of any size between Silver Lake and Lakeview.
The Mosquito Festival arose from the need to
raise funds to eradicate the bugs’ infestation nearby.
The festival is usually held the last weekend of July, featuring
a rodeo, a car show and dance—a truly outback
experience for visitors.
Near the end of Highway 31 at about milepost 119,
travelers can take note of the geological marker detailing
the creation and naming of the major landmark
of the region. Abert Rim is one of the highest fault
scarps in the United States. Rising almost vertically
to about 2,500 feet above the valley floor, it drives an
exclamation point into the features of this highway. Its
creation dates back to the epoch of the lava floods that
poured from great fissures in the Earth’s surface millions
of years ago. Following the lava floods, the Earth’s
crust fractured and tilted here—Abert Rim forms the
high point of a plate that tilts to the east. It stretches
nearly thirty miles from north of Lakeview to Alkali
Lake, making it the longest exposed fault scarp in the
United States. Explorer Fremont named it in honor of
Colonel J.J. Abert, a topographical engineer with the
United States Army.
The Outback Highway comes to an end at its junction
with Highway 395, at Valley Falls, about milepost
120. This stretch of road may be just a couple of hours
of motor travel, but it can take you back hundreds,
thousands and even millions of years in topographical
and geological time travel.
MILE
92
4
Summer Lake
Hot Springs
31
Paisley
Road
Trip
Great places to
stop between
mileposts 3 and
120 on Highway 31
At about milepost 22, check out
Hole-in-the-Ground, a
stunning volcanic crater
Get insight into life as a pioneer
by visiting the Fort Rock Homestead
Village Museum at about
milepost 29
Make reservations to eat an
authentic cowboy dinner at the
Cowboy Dinner Tree located
past milepost 47
Stay at Summer Lake Hot Springs
to soak while taking in panoramic
views around milepost 92
Stop at milepost 119, a
geological marker for Abert Rim
31
395
MILE
119
Lake Abert
5
Lakeview
395
Abert Rim
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 31

Around Oregon 72 hours
72
Hours
in the Columbia
Outdoor recreation,
wine
&
waterfalls
River Gorge
E
by Tina Lassen
ONS OF SPEWING VOLCANOES
and cataclysmic floods created the Columbia
River Gorge, where Oregon’s
grandest river rolls through towering
cliffs of basalt. Even Congress agreed this place
was special. Twenty-five years ago, it named the
Columbia River Gorge the country’s first National
Scenic Area, protecting the Columbia’s
most dramatic stretch, the eighty-five miles between
the Sandy and Deschutes rivers.
The Gorge is a natural wallop of waterfalls,
wildflowers, rainforest, high desert, wildlife,
snow-capped mountain views—essentially a
microcosm of the West. Appealing riverside
towns add to the mix—especially sporty Hood
River, which makes the perfect base camp.
From the central Gorge, recreation fans out
in all directions. Hike to waterfalls, then soak in
a mineral bath. Take a kiteboarding lesson, then
settle down to a couple of local microbrews.
Mountain bike through a fir forest or sagebrush,
then sample wines or eat sushi. Come for the
sports, come for the scenery, come for the aweinspiring
geology.
32 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
photo by BeautifulHoodRiver.com

72 hours
Around Oregon
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 33
ABOVE Hood River with Mt. Hood in
the background as photographed from
across the Columbia River.

CATHEDRAL
RIDGE WINERY
HOOD RIVER, OREGON
www.CathedralRidgeWinery.com
Tasting Room Open Daily 11am to 6pm
hood river’s inn
As Hood River’s only waterfront
dining and accommodations,
we offer a spectacular setting
and outstanding service. Treat
yourself to a mouth-watering meal
at Riverside, or a casual drink in
Cebu Lounge where you’ll find the
Happiest Hours in Town. We offer a
wide range of accommodations and
rates from standard rooms to three
bedroom suites. Plus a shoreline path,
heated pool, spa and ample parking.
800-828-7873 • hoodriverinn.com
Exit 64 off I-84 in Hood River, Oregon
Each Best Western® branded hotel is independently owned and operated ©2011 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved.
photo by Alan Heustis
Award-Winning Big Bold Reds
by fourth generation winemaker Michael Sebastiani
VineyARd exhiBit Room
Discover how the climate and terrain of our vineyards almost
exactly duplicates the world’s greatest grape growing regions.
PRemieR PiCniC AReA
Wonderful acreage voted for top ten Northwest wine
country picnic spots by the Wine Press Northwest.
IMAGINE . . . 300 dAys of blIssful suNshINE
world class fishing, cycling, hiking, wineries, an authentic
historic town, surrounded by amazing landscape . . . REAlly.
Click
ANDStay
Connected
(800) 516-8710 • Take I-84 to Exit 62
4200 Post Canyon Drive • Hood River, Oregon
for more information, please visit us at
www.thedalleschamber.com
541.296.2231 / 800.255.3385
404 W. 2nd St., The Dalles, OR

FAR LEFT Horsetail Falls in
autumn. LEFT Outside Double
Mountain Brewery in Hood River.
BELOW A kiteboarder rips along
the windy Columbia River Gorge.
photo by Alan Heustis
photo by Aubrie LeGault
DAY ONE - WESTERN GORGE
You can’t visit the Gorge without checking out its iconic waterfalls.
Just east of Portland, dozens of them slice through deep shades
of north-facing slopes. Pass by the camera-clicking crowds along
I-84 at Multnomah Falls and take the exit to the east instead. Backtrack
a couple of miles along the Historic Columbia River Highway
to 176-foot Horsetail Falls, which practically pour onto the road.
The Horsetail Falls trail leads out a three-mile hike, meandering
uphill through a grotto of mossy rocks and trickling streams, then
bending through an overhang behind the eighty-foot Ponytail Falls.
Next up are the Oneonta Falls, which plummet into a deep punchbowl.
For another perspective, wade up the frigid creek from the
highway. Add another two miles to your hike with an out-and-back
trip to the side-by-side torrents of Triple Falls.
A day afoot earns an evening at rest. One of the region’s best resorts
lies outside Stevenson, Washington, just upstream and across
the Bridge of the Gods. At the Skamania Lodge, enjoy a cocktail on
the patio overlooking the stately Columbia or in front of its eightyfive-foot-tall
fireplace. On Friday night, the Cascade Room hauls in
its Gorge Harvest Buffet, with crab legs, mussels and oysters, roast
prime rib au jus and Native American-style potlatch salmon.
A few miles to the west is the lesser-known Bonneville Hot
Springs Resort, tucked in the trees and surrounded by natural
springs. Soak in its outdoor mineral pools surrounded by lush landscaping,
or arrange for a pine-infused bath, linen wrap and arnica
massage. Tomorrow brings an adrenaline-filled day in the Gorge.
Brew-snobs may choose to bypass this all and head for agreeable
drafts like Homo Erectus IPA and Walking Stick Stout at Stevenson’s
understated Walking Man Brewing. In any case, you’re never far
from the Columbia as it rolls on.
DAY TWO - CENTRAL GORGE
Hood River is the heartbeat of the Gorge. Its idyllic location—on the
sunny side of the Cascades, at the mouth of the Hood River and its fertile
valley—became a busy fruit-packing town decades ago.
Today tourism feeds Hood River’s economy as much as fruit does.
Wind, as they say, blew money into town. The natural wind tunnel of the
Gorge pulls cool, coastal air toward the desert, making it a dream destination
for the nascent sport of windsurfing in the early ’80s. That sparked Hood
River’s makeover into a sports town that hasn’t slowed since. Along came
kiteboarding, and the realization that this town also plays nicely with road
biking, mountain biking, whitewater kayaking and other outdoor pursuits.
Cross I-84 on 2nd Street to the waterfront for windsurfing and kiteboarding
lessons, or to rent a stand-up paddle board on the occasional lightwind
day. The grassy Event Site is also a great place just to watch dozens
of colorful kites bouncing in the breeze. Windsurfers congregate near the
Spring Creek Fish Hatchery, across the Columbia and downstream a
few miles, where pros perform aerial tricks to the delight of crowds.
While this culture is built around the breeze, Hood River’s identity
hangs in its trees. Pear, apple and cherry trees—and increasingly, vineyards—cross-hatch
the lush Hood River Valley that stretches south toward
Mt. Hood. The county’s “Fruit Loop,” a thirty-five-mile drive, winds
through the region’s ubiquitous orchards, with lavender fields and alpaca
farms. It’s a lovely route by car or bicycle, with open views of Mt. Hood
and Mt. Adams along the way. The season begins with blossoms in April,
segues into cherries, peaches, pears and apples, then winds down with
pumpkins swelling beneath the autumn sun.
Eventually Hood River will lure you back to its walkable downtown,
filled with locally owned shops, restaurants and brewpubs like Full Sail
and Double Mountain. After a great day outdoors and a pint or two,
you’ll be giving serious thought to chucking your real life and putting
down Hood River roots.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 35

Sandy River
Around Oregon 72 hours
W
Troutdale
N
S
E
WASHINGTO N
Bonneville Hot Springs
Resort
Ainsworth State
Park
Horsetail
84 30
Falls
Oneonta
Multnomah Falls Falls
Wahkeena
Falls
Bridal Veil
Falls
14
Skamania
Bonneville
Locks & Dam
30
O R EGO N
Stevenson
84
Bridge of the Gods
Hood
River
H o o d
r
R i v e
White
Salmon
14
Syncline Winery
Memaloose
State Park Rowena
Crest
Klickitat County
Park
Lyle
30
Gorge
Discovery
Center
The
Dalles
142
Klickitat River
84
84
Corbett
30
Latourell
Falls
Explore
The Columbia River Gorge
where to stay
Hood River Inn, Hood River
hoodriverinn.com
Skamania Lodge
Stevenson, Washington
skamania.com
Bonneville Hot Springs Resort
North Bonneville, Washington
bonnevilleresort.com
where to eat
Henni’s, White Salmon, Washington
henniskitchenandbar.com
Brian’s Pourhouse, Hood River
brianspourhouse.com
Kaze, Hood River
212 4th Street, Hood River
what to taste
The killer pork nachos and Logger lager
at Everybody’s Brewing. The brews at
the Clock Tower Ales, and the wine and
food at the renovated Sunshine Mill in
The Dalles.
Reds at Cathedral Ridge Winery,
Rhone varietals at Syncline Winery
and Northern Italian wines at
Marchesi Vineyards
what to do
Take kiteboarding lessons from
New Wind Kite School
newwindkiteboarding.com
Rent a stand-up paddle board and
other watersports equipment from
Big Winds, bigwinds.com
Follow the Fruit Loop,
hoodriverfruitloop.com
traveling with kids
Check out the 11-foot-long
Herman the Sturgeon at
Bonneville Dam
Ride the Mt. Hood Scenic Railroad
through the Hood River Valley
mthoodrr.com
DAY THREE - EASTERN GORGE
The Columbia River Gorge takes on an entirely different mood east
of Hood River, where forested and ferny cliffs give way to broad skies and
furrowed desert canyons, textured and wrinkled like an elephant’s hide.
Miles of trails scribble the high hills above the Washington shore,
weaving through the bunchgrass and scrub oak. One of the most popular
areas is locally known as the Syncline, a swath of national forest land
four miles east of White Salmon along U.S. Hwy. 14. Mountain bikers are
drawn to its rock ledges, buttes and canyons. Hikers come for the southern
exposure, broad river views and early spring wildflower show.
Those sunny south-facing slopes also produce wine grapes. Near Lyle,
wineries like Syncline Wine Cellars are raising the bar for the Columbia
Gorge. The Columbia Gorge wine map (columbiagorgewine.com) takes
you to Syncline and other tasting rooms, including COR Cellars and Domaine
Pouillon.
Pack a picnic and a nice Mourvedre, then head up the nearby Klickitat
Trail. This former railroad corridor follows the Wild and Scenic Klickitat
River and desert canyons for thirty-one miles. From the trailhead
at Lyle, it’s less than two miles to the Fischer Hill Bridge, where spawning
salmon fling themselves through foaming rapids.
Cross the Columbia back into Oregon at The Dalles, about ten miles
east. Quenett Winery has created the town’s most intriguing tasting
room, surrounded by flour chutes, conveyor belts and other machinery
of the century-old Sunshine Mill. On the Quenett’s back patio, guests can
play a sporting game of bocci.
Head west along the Columbia Gorge Historic Highway instead,
which curls up to Rowena Crest. This rocky promontory offers grand
views of the Columbia River Gorge, its basalt bathed in the golden light
of evening. No matter how much time you spend here, the Gorge never
loses her beauty and intrigue.
36 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

1859 OREGON MAGAZINE 1/4 PG AD
Homes with
Great River Views
Spa
Health &
Wellness Center
historic
CASCADE
LOCKS
scenicoregon
Big Adventures... Small Pleasures...
in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge!
one Pine Village offers the rare
opportunity to live alongside the
spectacular Columbia River and
enjoy an easy lifestyle with many
of the amenities and necessities you
desire just a short walk away. An
innovative wellness center, fitness
and aquatic centers, medical spa
and upscale bistro already are part
of the neighborhood, and more
businesses are on the way. And
with home prices in Lone Pine
Village as low as they will ever be,
there will never be a better
opportunity to enjoy a waterfront
neighborhood lifestyle.
Call us for complete
information or a tour.
Keef Morgan, Principal Broker
541-300-0071
Sean Trew
Brenda Cramblett
Windermere Glenn Taylor Real Estate
207 W. 3rd St., The Dalles, OR 97058
lonepinevillage.com
LONE PINE VILLAGE, THE DALLES, OREGON • JUST WEST OF HWY 197 (I-84 EXIT 87)
Ride our Sternwheeler on a river of stories • Sail our world-famous winds
Hike our trails • Fish our award-winning waters • Picnic in our riverside park
Visit our local artists and shops • Bike our paths • See our waterfalls
Grab a bite, stay the night... in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge
For events and information please visit: www.cascadelocks.net
find yoursef in hot water
Gorge-ous Spa Getaway
America’s Most Unique Wine Region is located less than an hour East of Portland
Escape to the only destination resort spa in the Columbia River Gorge – your destination for
romantic luxury, impeccable service, and soothing relaxation. Soothe your senses and renew your
spirit with a relaxing soak in natural mineral hot spring water famed for its power to restore and
rejuvenate.
Pamper yourself in our full-service spa with a
hot stone massage, herbal body wrap, hydrating
facial or any of over 40 massages and body
treatments.
• Mineral spring filled indoor and outdoor jetted
soaking pools and dry sauna
• 25 meter indoor lap pool filled with natural mineral
hot spring water.
The World of Wine in 40 Miles
Bonneville
Hot Springs
Bridge of the Gods
Hood River
Portland Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area
• Award-winning wine list, romantic dining and
regional specialties in the Pacific Crest Dining Room
• 78 guest rooms and suites – all with private fresh air
balcony and many with spring-filled private hot tub
Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa
866-459-1678 • www.bonnevilleresort.com
Visit our web site for monthly resort and spa special offers

Staggering
landscapes
Unrivaled
tastes
Friendly
natives
A whole world away
in the dundee hills
just 25 miles from Portland / open daily from 11am to 5pm
langewinery.com
domaine
trouvère
tasting room now open
in the heart of dundee
above the red hills market
12 to 5 / Wednesday ~ Sunday / www.domainetrouvere.com / 115 Southwest Seventh, Dundee, Oregon

1859 & Dine
Around Oregon
&
restaurant
1859 Dine
review
Oregon Seafood
PRICE
$ Cheap (entrees less than $10)
$$ Average (entrees $10-$18)
$$$ Expensive (entrees $19-$25)
$$$$ Half a paycheck (entrees $26 and up)
QUALITY Ratings are based on a four-star scale
**** Excellent food, creative items and top notch service.
*** Good food, good value and nothing below reasonable expectations.
** Two stars are given to restaurants that are adequate but
need improvement. You wouldn’t go out of your way to eat
there again unless changes in quality and menu were made.
* One star is reserved for places that you would not recommend
under almost any circumstances.
Go to 1859magazine.com to propose a restaurant you’d like us to review.
photo by Christopher Bennett
Local Ocean Seafoods
213 Southeast Bay Boulevard, Newport
localocean.net
}
Price
$$$1/2
Rating ***
Besides the docks, Local Ocean Seafoods may be the best place in Newport to buy local, sustainably caught seafood. It’s also one
of the best places in town to eat seafood. This “fish market by day, restaurant by night” offers excellent dinners that are creatively
composed and beautifully plated. Inside, each display case explains where the fish was caught, how it was harvested and from
whom it was purchased. The roasted garlic Dungeness crab soup is a favorite among locals ($6.50/$11). So is the tuna “mignon,” a
meaty tuna steak wrapped in bacon and served over crispy onions ($16). The grilled halibut, served over roasted poblano peppers
and grilled peaches, is a well-balanced combination of flavors ($24). Fans of bouillabaisse will enjoy the fishwives stew ($25). The
catch of the day is breaded in panko and grilled for a lighter take on fish and chips ($14.50). Local Ocean has indoor and outdoor
seating. Two garage doors open on warm days, and overhead heat lamps keep patrons warm when the cool sea air picks up.
Although the prices are moderately expensive, this is a casual dining restaurant with many visitors wearing jeans and windbreakers.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 39

Around Oregon 1859 & Dine
Cabezon
5200 NE Sacramento Street, Portland
cabezonrestaurant.com
}Price $$$
Rating ****
Cabezon is a Pacific coastal scorpion fish, or Spanish for “bullheaded” and “stubborn.” Since 2009,
Portland’s Cabezon has also meant great seafood by embracing its own brand of stubbornness—a
commitment to seasonal ingredients and relationships with local purveyors. Chef David Farrell
and wine maven Jackie Speck co-own the upscale yet cozy space. Tables, nooks and seasonal
sidewalk seating fills with couples mainly in their 30s and 40s, families and groups. Farrell stands
at the prow of an on-site fish market from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. But why cook when one can sup
on excellent basil-wrapped white shrimp with green lentils, spinach and romesco ($11), grilled
Hawaiian ono with jambalaya and crawfish ($23), or the only permanent specialty, cioppino with
white gulf shrimp, local fish, Dungeness crab, clams, mussels and calamari ($20). The popular
mesquite-grilled New York strip loin ($23) makes seafood lovers reconsider their options. Make
room to indulge in worthwhile desserts like lavender and honey crème brûlée ($6). For a deal,
consider “Wine Wednesdays” with 40 percent off bottles with dinner, or the “Happy Fishes” hour
from 5-6 p.m., when small plates and drinks are $3-$6.
Baked Alaska
1 12th Street, Astoria
bakedak.com
}
Price
$$$1/2
Rating ****
Working fishermen still put out and pull in from Astoria, the historic home of one of the
country’s largest salmon canneries—now canonized as the Cannery Pier Hotel. Down the
Astoria Riverwalk, Baked Alaska does seafood in abundance and with mastery. The Oregon
Dungeness crab cakes are a good place to start. They are pan fried and served with a delicious
chili aioli ($14). From a little farther out to sea comes the Thundermuck Tuna, a Yellowfin
tuna dusted with locally roasted coffee seared rare and dripped in sesame ginger honey
sauce, reduced balsamic and pickled ginger ($11). For the mains, try the crab and mushroom
Sambuca carbonara. This dish combines crimini and oyster mushrooms sauteéd with sweet
onions, bacon, garlic, parsley and crab meat. That feast is laid over fresh fettuccini with a light
Sambuca reduction sauce ($23). If that becomes seafood overload, try a tasty baseball-cut
sirloin with sweet onions and a bourbon demi-glaze ($18). Finish it all with the namesake
Baked Alaska for dessert ($10).
Montage
301 SE Morrison, Portland
montageportland.com
}Price $$
Rating ***
If you’re in the mood for great seafood served on linen covered tables and don’t mind a
little shouting, try Montage. In Portland’s “under bridge” community, Montage offers an
eclectic and delicious assortment of seafood. To engage the shouting, start out by ordering
the oyster shooters. Montage is famous for its waiters yelling orders into the kitchen.
“Shooooters!” Before you know it, beautiful oysters in shot glasses ($1.95 each) appear. For
another starter delight, try the gator bites, gator tail served in cocktail sauce ($9.75). Pan
fried oysters ($13.25) or seafood jambalaya, a spicy Louisiana rice dish with Cajun gravy
and served with your choice of alligator, crawfish, catfish, rock shrimp, scallops or oysters
($11-$13) is highly touted. Montage is also known for it’s mac & cheese. Served a variety of
ways: Old Mac Garlic, Spicy Mac, Cheddar Mac, and Green Basil Pesto Mac are just some
options to pair with rock shrimp ($10.95). Be sure to have some leftovers so you can leave
with one of Montage’s signature aluminum foil masterpieces.
40 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

A Dining Oasis In The Heart of The City
Bend's only restaurant designed
to fit your healthy lifestyle.
Celebrating 40 Years!
The legendary
Veritable Quandary
1220 SW FIRST AVENUE • 503 227 7342 • WWW.VERITABLEQUANDARY.COM
presents the 24th annual
Stormy Weather Arts Festival
November 4-6, 2011
Artists. Live Music.
Gallery Receptions.
Quick Draw Auction.
All in Cannon Beach.

HISTORY MUSEUM
AT THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY
TREASURES
OF THE VAULT
October 14, 2011 - February 12, 2012
From the rare and priceless to the peculiar and mysterious, the artifacts in the Oregon
Historical Society’s collection document everything from key moments in Oregon history
to the minute details of daily life. We’ve searched the vault and selected the most historic,
intriguing, and unique items, many of them never before displayed, for this remarkable exhibit.
1200 SW Park Avenue l Portland, Oregon 97205 l WWW.OHS.ORG

Local Habit
Ballet, Dundee
& Skyline Forest
>>
45 / Artist in Residence
Meet OBT’s new leading
man. He’s on balance, on
point and can jump out
of the studio.
49 / From Where I Stand
Dundee, Oregon:
The roots of Oregon’s
wine industry.
52 / Top Five
Crooner Mat Kearney
reminisces about Eugene.
photo by Joni Kabana
54 / Sound Off
The fate of
Central Oregon’s
Skyline Forest.
Artist in Residence
Oregon Ballet Theatre’s
Lucas Threefoot in studio

THE ARTIST’S TOUCH
THE CRAFTSMAN’S HAND
Three Centuries of Japanese Prints
from the Portland Art Museum
OCTOBER 1, 2011 – JANUARY 22, 2012
1219 SW Park Avenue
portlandartmuseum.org
Utagawa Toyohiro (Japanese, 1773–1828), Parlor Puppets:
Chûshingura Act VI, c. 1803, color woodblock print, The Mary
Andrews Ladd Collection, 32.359. Unique impression.

artist in residence
Local Habit
On
Balance
Oregon Ballet Theatre’s New Soloist Finds Comfort in Changing Roles
by Shirley Hancock
photos by Joni Kabana
IN A DARKENED PHOTOGRAPHER’S STUDIO on Portland’s
Eastbank, Lucas Threefoot is jumping so high, his torso nearly clears a tall
backdrop. That athletic artistry is also vaulting his career as a ballet dancer
known for his classic and contemporary hybrid style. “I’m riding a wave
right now,” Threefoot smiles. “A good wave.”
The 23-year-old Oregon native is the new soloist with Oregon Ballet
Theatre (OBT), an organization that has trained him, remarkably, since
age 4. Threefoot—originally Dreyfuss, translated from German by his
great, great, great grandfather who was a cobbler in Mississippi—is proof
you don’t need a New York City Ballet or Joffrey pedigree to succeed. You
can train right here in Oregon, live ten minutes from your high school
(Lincoln High) and learn to perform world-class ballet.
Threefoot’s promotion to soloist comes after exemplary performances
as Bluebird in Sleeping Beauty; leads in Trey McIntyre’s Like a Samba;
Speak, a hip-hop pas de deux; Rush at The Kennedy Center; and as Lysander
in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. These are the foundation for future
breakout roles. “When someone like Lucas comes along—particularly
a male with a classic physique—and gets a good teacher early, has drive,
ambition, intelligence, coordination and musicality, well, it just doesn’t
happen very often,” says OBT artistic director, Christopher Stowell.
Threefoot grew up a kind of cultured Huckleberry Finn. His mother, a
nurse, and father, a cabinet maker, encouraged their only child to excel in
languages, music, even karate. He ran unfettered through the woods and
fields surrounding their Beavercreek home. Then in 1992, watching the
summer Olympics, Threefoot began cartwheeling through the house. “I
was afraid he was going to do serious damage to his head on the brick
hearth,” laughs his mother, Eileen. “I had to find a way to channel that energy.”
She found it at OBT’s Dance Movement class.
Soon enthralled, young Threefoot, gave up basketball, karate, prom,
even college for the rigorous demands of ballet. “There wasn’t a singular
moment when I said I wanted to be a ballet dancer,” explains Threefoot.
“If I had gone to college, I’d want to be on the cutting edge of technology,
to discover something new. It’s interesting because science and technology
is exploring what’s out there, and with dancing, you’re exploring
what’s within—the intention behind the steps.”
Audiences witnessed that last season when Threefoot took the male
lead next to Anne Mueller in Rite of Spring, Stravinsky’s provocative
ballet that, in 1913, unleashed riots at Theatre des Champs-Elysees in
Paris. “Oh man, so intense!” says Threefoot. “The music is just so weird
and powerful. You have to match that in your intent, and Anne is just
such a powerful dancer.” Threefoot not only matched Mueller’s level of
artistry, says Stowell, but also “joined her in being a wild animal on stage,”
a performance Stowell likens to sprinting for fifteen minutes.
Ballet as an athletic art form for both women and men, is something
Threefoot and OBT want to promote. “The first thing I tell people is,
‘Hey, I get to dance with beautiful women all the time,’” says Threefoot,
described by a staff member as “the mischievous flirt” who charms every
pretty girl walking through the door. He sees the irony that most people
identify ballet with tutus and tiaras, yet King Louis the XIV was one of
the world’s first danseurs. And the only ballet dancer—male or female—
most people can name is Mikhail Baryshnikov, Threefoot’s hero. “I want
his kind of power and confidence,” says Threefoot.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 45

Local Habit
artist in residence
Of course, all that confidence comes from negotiating tough life
passages—like middle school, not always an easy place for a “smart,
goody two shoes,” let alone ballet student. “That was a formative time,”
reflects Threefoot. “I know how it is to be picked on, to be the odd man
out, and I never want to make anyone feel that.”
Last season, Threefoot triumphed over a grand faux pas during the
first night as Bluebird in Sleeping Beauty. “I wasn’t completely comfortable
in myself, and I put my hand down. That sucked,” Threefoot
confesses. “But it helped me be a better dancer. I realized—and it seems
like a paradoxical thing—you have to overcome it in your mind before
you overcome it on stage.”
This fall finds Threefoot with what he calls a “comfort I’ve never felt
before, more confident relating to people.” Fresh from starring in The
Nutcracker in Seoul, South Korea, and preparing for a November performance
of Alex Ballard’s Noesis and Noema in Lyon, France, he can’t
wait to translate that comfort to the Oregon stage. “My challenge this
season is to bring more of my intent and personality to the audience.
There are so many aspects to me. This is why ballet is not a sport. We
don’t dance just to show cool tricks, we dance to show what’s inside us,”
he says. “Whatever it is you’re feeling, you have to fill 3,000 seats. You
have to feel it and magnify it.”
OREGON BALLET THEATRE 2011-2012 SEASON
World Premiere of Petrouchka/Carmen
October 8-15
A Holiday Revue
December 10-22
George Balanchine’s, The Nutcracker
December 10-24
World Premiere of Giselle
February 25-March 3, 2012
Chromatic Quartet
April 19-28, 2012
Dance United
June 9, 2012
obt.org
46 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
An intense workout for
Threefoot. The new soloist
wants to soar like Baryshnikov.
Threefoot as a young
dancer performing an
arabesque.

THIS
is
CULTURE
Shirod Younker powers the next generation of Oregonians by taking them
on cultural journeys.
Oregon culture remains as diverse as its people. A donation to the Oregon
Cultural Trust advances thousands of institutions like the Oregon College of Art &
Craft’s A. Susana Santos Journeys in Creativity Program, awarded a Cultural Trust
grant for 2011–2012.
Experience Oregon. Donate to the Cultural Trust today. www.culturaltrust.org
Shirod Younker, member of the Coquille Tribe, photographed on the Willamette River by Andy Batt
Media Sponsor:

NOVEMBER 11 AND 12, 2011
Join Oregon’s top winemakers
as they celebrate the 20th
anniversary of Salud!
A BENEFIT TO PROVIDE HEALTH CARE TO OREGON’S
SEASONAL VINEYARD WORKERS AND THEIR FAMILIES
Photo ©Michael Wilhelm
This festive two-day gala marks the debut of the 2010 vintage
when the state’s foremost wineries uncork their ¡Salud! Cuvées –
collectible Pinot Noirs created exclusively for the auction.
Celebrate the past 20 years of Oregon winemaking with rare
wine collections, personal winemaking experiences, and
exciting vacations abroad. Like the unique cuvées themselves,
you will only find these opportunities at the ¡Salud! auction.
Mingle with the most distinguished names in the Oregon wine
industry, and toast with them to the health of their vines and
the workers who care for them!
Adelsheim Vineyard
Amalie Robert Estate
Antica Terra
ArborBrook Vineyards
Archery Summit
Argyle
Ayres Vineyard
Beaux Frères
Bethel Heights Vineyard
Chehalem
Cristom Vineyards
Dobbes Family Estate
Domaine Drouhin Oregon
Dusky Goose
Elk Cove Vineyards
Erath Winery
Evening Land Vineyards
The Eyrie Vineyards
Hamacher Wines
Ken Wright Cellars
King Estate Winery
Lange Estate Winery
Maysara Winery
Patricia Green Cellars
Patton Valley Vineyard
Penner-Ash Wine Cellars
Ponzi Vineyards
R. Stuart & Co.
Raptor Ridge Winery
Scott Paul Wines
Shea Wine Cellars
Silvan Ridge
Sokol Blosser
Soléna Estate
Soter Vineyards
St. Innocent Winery
Stoller Vineyards
Torii Mor
WillaKenzie Estate
Willamette Valley Vineyards
Winderlea Vineyard & Winery
Witness Tree Vineyard
The Vintners Circle is a group of select wineries that generously donate their time, resources, and talent to create exclusive
¡Salud! Oregon Pinot Noir Cuvées.
Sponsored By:

Dundee
A Junction of Worldly Wines
and Small Town Charm
from where I stand
Around Oregon
The story of how a town known for its Christmas
trees became the birthplace of the Oregon Pinot
industry one risk-taker at a time
by KEVIN MAX
The plan for Jesse Lange was already in the soil of tiny Dundee when he moved there as a 9-year-old. It wasn’t preordained determinism.
Oregon’s wine industry back then couldn’t yet be called much of an industry. The soil was new to the noses in the wine
world, and most clear thinkers were clearly skeptical of its potential. Oregon wine was what Californian wine-growers considered
to be the hooch of a few hippies who had lost the points on their compass, errant souls swept up in a northerly trade wind.
“There was David Lett and a few rows of wine grapes,” says Lange, now 33. David Lett was one of those first few who thought the
soils and climate of this part of Oregon would make for a great place to reproduce French Pinot noirs. The honorific of “pioneer”
supplanted “dreamer” only after the fruit of Lett’s bottled heresy pleased the international Pinot judges in the sip heard around the
world in 1979.
Once a sleepy hollow known for Christmas tree farms, Dundee was on its way to becoming the birthplace of the Oregon wine
industry. There was David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards, Dick Erath of Erath Winery, the Blossers of the Sokol Blosser Winery, Dick and
Nancy Ponzi of Ponzi Vineyards and Robert Drouhin of the esteemed Burgundian Domaine Drouhin family.
Lange’s parents, Don and Wendy Lange, were close to the wine industry in California. In 1987, they moved to Dundee and
planted sixty acres of wine grapes. “It took a great leap of faith and a long time to build the reputation,” the younger Lange admits.
The relocation to the farms and fields of Dundee from the civilized Santa Barbara, California was a welcome culture shock. “We
were growing grapes, and I was driving a tractor,” Lange says. “I loved it.”
The population of Dundee then barely registered. There were enough people to plant acres of wine grapes and work on the
farms with a few hands left to pump gas and work the few retail businesses in the 896-acre town in the northern Willamette Valley.
ABOVE Jesse Lange at
his family’s Lange Estate
Vineyards in Dundee.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 49

Around Oregon
from where I stand
Today, this small town’s reputation for wine stretches across
the country. On a late summer morning, a traveling couple arrived at
Lange Vineyards well before its tasting room was open. “We just wanted
to tell people back home that we were here,” said one. “We love your
wine.” And earlier this year, Lange and others uncorked their wines to
a sold out dinner at SoHo’s City Winery, the avant garde wine bar and
music venue created by Michael Dorf, founder of the spirited Manhattan
jazz club, Knitting Factory. This was a spectacular reception for Oregon
wines in a city known for its Old World tastes, says Lange.
Though quintessential Oregon, Dundee was named after Dundee,
Scotland, an eastern port and the birthplace of William Reed, an early
railroad magnate in Oregon. The Oregon town is stretched along a busy
99W that runs southwest from Tigard before hitting a southern inflection
point at McMinnville. Besides serving as an artery into Willamette
wine country, 99W is also a thoroughfare for casino- and coast-bound
Portlanders and suburbanites. In the busy summer months, the seamless
line of cars leaves pedestrians with a binding ultimatum—take to
the north side of the street or the south side.
Within a few years, Dundee could address that ultimatum with a sixmile
$192 million bypass to the south. On paper, the road project began
as a four-lane $850 million federally funded job creation package. After
federal spending projects were severely curtailed, a whittled-down
state-funded alternative emerged.
“This is part of an effort that began in 2004,” says Dundee mayor, Ted
Crawford. “If you can move truck traffic to the bypass and reduce the
speed to 25 miles per hour, then Dundee traffic gets quiet.” The master
plan for the town envisions reconnecting the Willamette River to the
north side of Highway 99W, where the Red Hills lie. “Ultimately, we’d
like to tie together the Willamette River, wine-tasting and eco-tourism,”
says Crawford.
Along the north side of the road, visitors encounter the Dundee
Bistro and the Ponzi Tasting Room and Wine Bar. In 1999, one of the
area’s earliest wine families, the Ponzis, built the tasting room and bistro,
bringing together two of the region’s best qualities—wine and food.
The tasting room is the hub for many of Oregon’s top wines and gourmet
appetizers.
Chef Christopher Flanagan at the Dundee Bistro leverages his experience
as the understudy of his noted predecessor, Jason Stoller
Smith. Flanagan brings in fresh local fare that takes on the tasty forms
of smoked pork sandwiches served with a house-made barbecue sauce
and baby greens with Oregon strawberries and sweet onions.
The adjacent Red Hills Market is a good stop for wood-fired pizzas,
local wines and a bocci ball court outside of a dining area with roll-up
doors. A classic deli with refrigerated cases of meats and cheeses, Red
Hills Market also has a wall of local wines from which to choose.
Though most traffic converges on the thoroughfare of 99W, the Red
Hills of Dundee are best experienced on foot in the tasting rooms of its
wineries or at the table of its eateries. It’s in these places that Dundee
cultivates a lasting impression on the palate that was crafted around the
Pinot grape.
50 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
Dundee
A rural farm town
that remains true to
its roots in becoming
the seed of Oregon’s
wine industry.
Besides its venerable
vineyards, new restaurants
give travelers
more reason to hit
the brakes on 99W.
INFO
Population of Dundee
3,075 (2010)
Population growth
4% (2005-2010)
Median household income
$50,284
Median price of a single-family home
$231,100
WHAT TO DO
TOP A glorious wall of
wine at Red Hills Market
in Dundee.
LEFT Puget Sound
Manila Clams from
Dundee Bistro.
Enjoy lunch or dinner at Dundee Bistro
or the Red Hills Market.
Hike the Harvey Creek Trail in the hills
above town.
Visit the Ponzi, Domaine Trouvère or
Dobbes tasting rooms and vineyards of
the Pinot pioneers.
Rent a kayak to float the Willamette
River.
Play bocci ball behind the Red Hills
Market.

Jim Williams Photography
Ski the original.
This winter make your escape to Sisters
Country and hit the slopes at Hoodoo Ski Area. Then
discover for yourself all the adventure, first-rate dining, and
shopping that Sisters Country has to offer.
Visit www.SistersCountry.com/Winter to find your pioneering
spirit and plan your winter adventure today.
SISTERS AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
www.SistersCountry.com
Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce
866-549-0252
www.Hoodoo.com
541-822-3799

Local Habit
top 5
Mat Kearney
TOP 5
MAT KEARNEY WAS BORN IN EUGENE,
played soccer at South Eugene High and again at
Chico State University, a Division II program in
California. It was there that he picked up his roommate’s
guitar and distinguished himself as a talented
crooner and balladeer.
The Oregon boy came out punching in 2004 with
songs like “I Won’t Back Down” and “Undeniable.”
He didn’t back down and, in 2006, he signed with
Columbia Records and jumped into elite industry
circles with “Nothin’ Left to Lose” and “All I Need,”
a driving love song that found its way onto TV’s
“Grey’s Anatomy.”
Now 32 years old and a Nashville regular, Kearney’s
“Hey Mama” chronicles his courtship of a
young woman who became his wife in 2010. That
song is the hit single of his new album “Young Love,”
which was released this fall. Oregon fans of Kearney’s
live music, though, will be disappointed that
the accompanying tour stays east of the Rockies.
1859 caught up with Kearney to talk about his Top
5 Eugene Memories.
Photo by Pamela Littky
TOP 5
Eugene
Memories
52 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
1
2
3
4
5
Scoring the tying goal against North Bend in the state soccer quarterfinals
Watching The Daddies rock W.O.W. Hall in tenth grade
Visiting the Eugene Saturday Market
Getting arrested for spray-painting a mural on 30th Avenue
Watching Terrell Brandon lead the Ducks over Arizona at McArthur Court
Go to 1859magazine.com
for Mat’s Top 5 Oregon
Places and Beverages

Danail Rachev
Music Director & Conductor
2011–2012
SINGLE TICKETS ON SALE NOW
Buy today for the best seats!
541-682-5000
EUGENESYMPHONY.ORG
love the MUSIC
om
n
Opening Night Celebration
Thursday, September 22 | 8 p.m.
Pomp & Circumstance
Thursday, October 20 | 8 p.m.
Rachmaninov’s Rhapsody
Thursday, November 17 | 8 p.m.
Beethoven Triple Concerto
Thursday, December 1 | 8 p.m.
Piazzolla’s Four Seasons
Thursday, January 19, 2012 | 8 p.m.
Disney in Concert
Sunday, January 22 | 2:30 p.m.
Tchaikovsky’s Pathetique
Thursday, February 16 | 8 p.m.
Emanuel Ax Plays Brahms
Thursday, March 8 | 8 p.m.
Marin Alsop/Baltimore Symphony
Monday, April 2 | 8 p.m.
Midori & The Eugene Symphony
Thursday, April 26 | 8 p.m.
Liszt Piano Concerto
Thursday, May 17 | 8 p.m.
TICKETS
START AT
$15 *
*Subject to availability
A Lincoln Portrait narrated by Tom Brokaw
Tuesday, November 22 | 7:30 p.m.
Celebrated news anchor and journalist Tom Brokaw narrates Aaron Copland’s Lincoln Portrait, set against
a backdrop of stunning images depicting our country’s progress toward freedom, justice, and equality.
At Eugene’s Hult Center for the Performing Arts | 541-682-5000 | eugenesymphony.org

Around Oregon
sound off
Skyline Forest
The Skyline Forest is a 33,000-acre tree farm west of Bend that was once owned by timber company Crown Pacific. In 2003, Crown
Pacific filed for bankruptcy, and its assets went to its creditors. Ownership of Skyline Forest fell to Fidelity National Financial of Jacksonville,
Florida and its subsidiary, Fidelity National Timber Resources. The dissolution of Crown Pacific and its use as timber lands led
to a struggle with many stakeholders. The plot’s owner, Fidelity, seeks legislation that would change Skyline Forest’s land use to accommodate
residential units. Nonprofit Central Oregon LandWatch fought to restrict the use of the land and the number of residential
units. In May 2009, Oregon legislators asked Fidelity, Central Oregon LandWatch and the Deschutes Land Trust to negotiate a deal that
would create incentives for the landowner to limit the footprint of their development. Those negotiations ended in HB 2228, which the
Legislature passed in June of that year. That bill allowed Fidelity National Timber Resources to build 282 dwellings on a small portion
of the forest if it agreed to sell the remaining acreage to Deschutes Land Trust. Citing insufficient time to research the economics that
drove the original bill, Fidelity, after the bill’s passage, sought to change the terms of it with more residential units. Today, the situation
remains at an impasse.
Paul Dewey
Executive Director
Central Oregon
LandWatch
For more than ten years Central Oregon LandWatch has fought efforts by
developers to build homes on private timberland known as the Skyline Forest,
nestled between Bend, Sisters and the Three Sisters mountains. Fundamental
to Oregon’s land-use system is the concept that houses should not be scattered
across the landscape, especially in our forests and other natural areas.
Now, we have the owner, Fidelity National Financial, seeking to substantially
alter the legal framework that has helped make Oregon the most livable place
in the nation. Even worse, this Florida corporation is breaking an agreement it
made before the Oregon Legislature just two years ago.
In 2007, the 33,000 acre Skyline Forest was identified by the Oregon Legislature
as a potential community forest. In 2009, various interested parties, including
both Fidelity and LandWatch, engaged in intensive negotiations to craft legislation
to govern the Skyline Forest. Finally, a deal was struck. Fidelity would be
allowed to build up to 282 houses (far more than would otherwise be permitted)
in a 3,000-acre corner of the land. In exchange, Fidelity would sell the remaining
30,000 acres to the Deschutes Basin Land Trust, where the land would remain
undeveloped and would serve the interests of the local communities.
Fidelity now wants to triple the number of houses it can build, to around 800
dwellings. This intensive development would harm critical wildlife habitat in
the Tumalo deer winter range. It would dramatically increase the difficulty in
providing community services, such as fire protection in this high fire risk area,
deep in our forest. And it represents a fundamental breach of the agreement the
parties reached in good faith just two years ago. The Oregon Legislature should
summarily reject Fidelity’s new overreaching proposal, and the parties should
focus on efforts to implement the existing Skyline Forest legislation to preserve
this important area.
Vs.
Greg Lane
President
Fidelity National
Timber Resources
People working together has made Oregon a leader in preserving forestland.
The key is to find innovative solutions—alternatives that move away from us vs.
them, to a win-win vision. That approach is critical to the success of the Skyline
Community Forest.
Before we bought the 33,000 acres, it was being divided and sold piecemeal
for development. We ended that practice and agreed to work with the Deschutes
Land Trust and the State to preserve 30,000 acres as a Community Forest. In return,
we would transfer our development rights to a 1,200-acre sustainable development
area. That approach is part of our larger strategy of finding economically
viable ways of conserving forestland. For example, we have a track record of successfully
partnering with The Conservation Fund and the State to provide the land
for the Gilchrist State Forest.
In 2009, a variation of the Skyline Forest proposal was added to a bill without
our input. Without supporting economic data, the bill arbitrarily established a formula
allowing 282 homes within the 1,200 acres. In case the formula was wrong,
we negotiated a provision to make the proposal optional rather than mandatory.
Since then, economic studies have shown the real costs. The number of homes
needed to make the project work is closer to 750. Therefore, we propose to revise
the legislation to allow more homes on smaller lots. Our revisions will actually reduce
the size of the development to 1,000 acres. The other 30,000-plus acres will
become the community forest.
Skyline Community Forest can be a win-win. With the revised unit count, it
will allow enough homes to make the project work economically and will preserve
more forestland forever.
In contrast, a bill that doesn’t work for both sides will only lead to forest fragmentation.
We’re committed to meeting both environmental and economic concerns
by making Skyline Community Forest a reality.
54 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011
Continue the debate online at 1859magazine.com

Enjoy a Long, Happy Retirement.
Dreaming about a comfortable lifestyle is easy.
Preparing financially for retirement is more complex.
With over 86 years combined experience, The
Menefee Meagher Group specializes in helping
families in the Pacific Northwest successfully plan
for and attain their financial goals. Call today for a
complimentary consultation.
Tom Meagher
Senior Vice President -
Financial Advisor
(541) 312-6519
(800) 678-5026
John Menefee
Senior Vice President -
Financial Advisor
(541) 312-6518
(800) 678-5026
1133 NW Wall Street, Bldg. 2
Bend, OR 97701
© 2011 RBC Wealth Management, a division of
RBC Capital Markets, LLC, Member NYSE/FINRA/SIPC.
11-BN-286_ad.indd 1
5/25/11 11:37 AM

Making our relationship one of
your most valuable investments
With over 200 years of combined experience, our team
has been helping families in the Pacific Northwest pursue
their financial goals for over 30 years.
Joseph Ferguson
Senior Vice President–Investments
James Wrenn, CIMA ®
Senior Vice President–Investments
Advisory & Brokerage Services
Don A. Wrenn
Senior Vice President–Investments
John D. Wrenn
Senior Vice President–Investments
The Wrenn/Ferguson Group
111 SW 5th Avenue, Suite 3100
Portland, OR 97204
503-248-1307 800-444-3235
C. Craig Heath
Senior Vice President–Investments
Ted Ferguson
Financial Advisor
www.ubs.com/financialservicesinc
UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. ©2009 UBS Financial Services Inc. All rights reserved. Wealth management services in the U.S. are provided by UBS Financial Services Inc.,
a registered broker-dealer offering securities, trading, brokerage, and related products and services. Member SIPC. Member FINRA. CIMA ® is a registered certification mark of the Investment
Management Consultants Association, Inc. in the United States of America and worldwide. 7.00_Ad_8.25x10.375_7E1218_Wrenn

Ventures
Guitars,
Solar Paper
& Hope
>>
58 Business Profile
Two Old Hippies strikes a
chord with Breedlove.
60 What I’m Working On
Wei Wang is printing his own
solar panels at OSU.
63 Game Changers
Finding hope at the
Oregon Food Bank.
Business Profile
Luthier Gary Flaherty at Two
Old Hippies strings a new
Breedlove guitar.

Ventures
business profile
Two Old Hippies/
Breedlove
NICHE
Custom and production guitar and
mandolin manufacturing
FOUNDERS
Tom and Molly Bedell and
Kim Breedlove
2011 PRODUCTION
18,000 guitars and mandolins, with
2,000 of those made in Oregon
ASPIRATION
To get Sir Paul McCartney playing
one of their guitars
Two Old Hippies
Make Music, Not War
Oregon master luthiers strike a chord with hippie capitalist
by NEAL CASSADY
Though there was no rainy outdoor concert to commemorate it, no tie-dyes
made for the occasion and no ten-bong salute, the combination of Two Old Hippies
Guitar and Breedlove Guitars was acoustic harmony with roots in the ’60s.
Quietly last year, Tom Bedell, chief hippie and co-founder of Two Old Hippies,
swept into Bend and signed papers that created the growth platform and common
future for two iconic guitar manufacturers. The acquisition brought immediate
stability to the financially troubled Breedlove Guitars and preserved one of Oregon’s
top musical institutions on its own soil. The new company, Two Old Hippies,
brings together the yin and the yang of an Oregon dream and a grounded
financial team.
To understand Bedell’s attraction to Breedlove Guitars, is to know the genesis of
Breedlove and Two Old Hippies.
Breedlove Guitar Company opened shop in 1990 in Bend. Founded by Larry
Breedlove, but later taken over by Larry’s brother, master luthier Kim Breedlove,
58 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

usiness profile
Ventures
the tiny shop in Tumalo, Oregon was a craftsman’s fancy. The small
batches of handmade acoustic guitars introduced a new sound and
shape to an industry dominated by big strummers such as Taylor,
Martin and Gibson. Breedlove carved out a niche as a balanced and
deep-throated picking alternative. Its guitars and mandolins were
hewn from Pacific Northwest woods such as myrtle, redwood and
Port Orford cedar. Its sound was making waves at industry shows.
Artists such as Grammy Award winning guitarist Ed Gerhard
from Philadelphia, all-acoustic Makepeace Brothers from New
York and angel-voiced Erin Cole-Baker from Bend were drawn to
the Breedlove sound.
“My Breedlove is the perfect size and responds well to finger
picking and strumming with a pick,” notes Cole-Baker.
What strength Breedlove Guitars had in craftsmanship, creativity
and cult devotion, however, it lacked in long-term strategy and
capital. In 2000, a new management team came in to wring revenues
from reveries. The new management added lower-priced
models from a Korean manufacturing partner, increased revenues
manifold and, in 2008, built a $3.6 million, 20,000-square-foot
manufacturing facility in Bend staffed by a growing cult of luthiers.
Just as Breedlove Guitar Company was ramping up, however, the
economy was shutting down. About that time, self-made guitar
and fishing tackle tycoon, Tom Bedell, was on a year sabbatical and
getting restless to get back into the music business. He researched
fifteen guitar manufacturers before making an offer.
“There was nothing like Breedlove,” says Bedell, 61. “It was like we
wrote the same book. They care so much about making quality guitars.”
At 9 years old, Bedell got his first guitar for Christmas. As a young
teen, he began giving lessons in a music store in Spirit Lake, Iowa
for $1 and often sold guitars to customers. When the store’s proprietor
wouldn’t cough up 10 percent sales commission to young
Bedell, he began importing guitars from Japan. By age 14, he was
selling guitars wholesale in five states. “I brought in guitars under
the Bedell name and just doubled the price,” he joyfully recalls.
By his junior year of high
school, Bedell Guitars was a
half-million-dollar business.
More successful capitalist than hippie, Bedell eventually took over
Berkeley Fishing, his father’s tackle business and turned it into a
$500 million company with offices in twenty-two countries before
selling it in 2007. Coming off his year-long retirement, he rejoined
the industry, launching the Bedell Guitar line at the 2010 National
Association of Music Merchants Show in Anaheim, California.
To Breedlove, Bedell brought that same experience and passion.
“We began investing in marketing, product development and benefits
packages,” he says. “Most of all, we were able to give hope.”
Unlike local tech companies that often get raided for their intellectual
capital and then consolidate somewhere else, the combined
company will remain in Bend, where its custom luthiers live. Two
Old Hippies has retail shops in Aspen and in Nashville but now
calls Bend its headquarters.
“What a gift!” exclaims Bedell. “First, Breedlove was in Bend,
Oregon and second, it was surrounded by great luthiers.”
The Oregon facility is the home of the custom shop, where each
week seventy-five guitars and mandolins are transformed from
wood to music. Dozens of luthiers rotate through all aspects of
guitar and mandolin creation—from building bridges and necks to
lacquering and polishing.
The Bedell and Breedlove lines number nearly 200, split evenly.
By year end, the company will have sold 18,000 guitars, with 2,000
of those of the $3,000-plus veneer made in Oregon.
Present in all of this swirling mass of capitalism is a hippie
ethic. Bedell’s wife, “original hippie chick” and Two Old Hippies
co-founder, Molly, is a Eugene native, who runs their retail site in
Aspen, Colorado.
The company’s handbook is an extension of that culture. “Two Old
Hippies is inspired by the values of our generation, steeped in the belief
that we are one human race, that all living things have equal value
and purpose, that we have stewardship responsibility for our mother
Earth, and that the more love we give—the more we get!”
In his office window in Bend, Bedell displays a photo of him with
the Dalai Lama, a suit and a maroon-robed monk—two facets of Bedell’s
own beliefs and perhaps a tie-dyed corporate model that will
help Two Old Hippies bring more acoustic music to the world.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 59

Ventures
what i'm working on
Q
A
Sunshine
in a Box
An OSU student invents solar cells
printed on an inkjet
interview by KEVIN MAX
photo by Vernon T. Williams
Wei Wang sat down in his lab at Oregon State University
with an inkjet printer and an interesting question. Why can’t
solar cells be made simply by printing them with an inkjet
printer filled with a solution of solar-transmitting compound?
His answer was the subject of a four-page research paper published
in the industry journal Solar Energy Materials & Solar
Cells and the focus of an article from the BBC. The 28-year-old
Ph.D. candidate from Shanxi Province, China had discovered
an easy process for making solar cells with a printer, a substrate
and a combination of metal salts called CIGS. Wang’s
discovery could revolutionize the solar industry as a cheap and
environmentally friendly alternative to the traditional siliconbased
solar cell, and, as a by-product, bring inkjets back into
the avant garde.
Wang grew up in Datong, a mid-sized city in northern
China known for coal mining, the manufacture of locomotives
and cold winters. He came to Oregon State University in 2006
for his master’s in chemical engineering and stayed on to pursue
a doctoral degree in the engineering school under professor
Chih-hung Chang, his adviser. For the past three years,
Wang has been researching his solar cell printing project.
When did you become interested in solar energy research?
During my master’s program at Oregon State, I focused on the application of bio-sensing materials through inkjet printers. That was the starting point
for me. After I finished my master’s degree, my adviser and I decided to explore new techniques making solar cells through inkjet printers. There are
several reasons pushing us in that direction. First, solar energy is the most abundant and cheapest “green” resource on Earth. Second, we already had
extensive experience with inkjet printing and achieved success in electronic material synthesis and electronic device fabrication such as thin film transistor.
More importantly, nobody had used an inkjet printer to fabricate cheap metal salts that make up a thin film solar cell called CIGS (an acronym
for copper, indium, gallium and selenide). After an initial test of this process, which proved the feasibility of the chemistry, we became more confident
in this solar energy research.
60 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

what i'm working on
Ventures
How did you end up at Oregon State
University?
I knew my adviser, Chih-hung Chang, before I
decided to come to Oregon State and was very
interested in his research area at that point. Besides,
I dislike hot and humid weather back
home, so I chose Oregon State to continue my
graduate study. Right now, I love the nice weather
and great people in Oregon very much. It is my
best decision ever.
Printing solar film from an inkjet
seems far-fetched. How did the idea
arise?
The idea arose from our personal interest and
experience and economic demand. Honestly,
printing solar cells by inkjet was not a totally new
idea even three years ago. At that time, people
had already inkjet printed organic solar cells. No
one, however, was using this technique to fabricate
inorganic CIGS thin film photovoltaic devices,
which perform much better compared to
organic solar cells.
What should we take away from
your research?
For the general audience, it is easy to understand
the benefit. Using an inkjet printer is a cheap
technique that gives you the ability to control
the printing pattern. That means this process
has a low-cost advantage over other technologies
such as the industry standard vacuum-based
deposition, which wastes around 30 percent to
70 percent of starting materials. From a scientific
perspective, my research has proven that it is possible
to make use of cheap and simple metal salts
to make thin film solar cells compared to other
techniques, which usually use more expensive
metal or ceramic starting materials. Our unique
ink formula makes this process more stable and
robust in ambient condition and more environmentally
friendly. This could lower the cost more.
Tell us about chalcopyrite: What is
it and how does its solar efficiency
compare to that of the traditional
silicon solar cell?
Chalcopyrite is a certain mineral containing copper,
iron and sulfide. In my research, a certain
compound, CIGS, is made for absorbing and
converting sunlight to electric current. Solar cells
made from silicon have reached up to 25 percent
efficiency for monocrystalline cells and 20.4 percent
efficiency for multicrystalline cells. CIGS
solar cells are comparable with multicrystalline
silicon cells but less efficient than monocrystalline
ones. So far, the best research of CIGS cells
has achieved 20.3 percent efficiency with a theoretical
efficiency limit at 30 percent. Due to a high
absorption coefficiency of CIGS, only a one- or
two-micrometer thick CIGS layer is needed to
absorb 99 percent of light compared to more
than 100 micrometer-thick silicon. This makes
CIGS solar cells cheaper and more affordable
than traditional silicon cells.
What we know is that the non-vacuum inkjet
process is much cheaper and has a much higher
rate of material utilization than vacuum-based
techniques. However, the deposited films by
non-vacuum processes are less uniform and less
efficient than their vacuum counterparts.
Tell us about the process from
chalcopyrite to printing on inkjet.
Through an inkjet, metal salts dissolved in solvents
were printed on substrates and converted
to solar-absorbing CIGS material after annealing.
Photovoltaic devices were finished by depositing
several subsequent layers where photo current
was generated. The printing process lasts about
ten to twenty minutes for a one-square-inch area.
The printing duration could decrease dramatically
if more printing heads were used. However,
it took two days to finish a whole cell in our research
lab on campus.
The solar material you’ve produced
though the inkjet-secreted process
is still a fraction of the commercial
photovoltaic conversion process.
Can that be improved?
Of course. The results presented in the paper are
just our initial step to verify the capability of inkjet
printing CIGS solar cells. The reported 5 percent
efficiency is far lower than the record value 20.3
percent. So there is plenty of room for us to improve
our process to make devices work better
with intense physical and chemical analyses. Also
making the inkjet printing process more stable
and faster is crucial for future commercialization
purposes.
What are your biggest obstacles in
bringing this to market?
Energy conversion efficiency is the most important
measure of the quality of solar cells. In order
to make solar cells affordable and acceptable in
the commercial market, we have to reach a certain
efficiency level. Besides, there are other factors
such as stability and uniformity of solar cells.
Currently, we have pushed the performance to
7-8 percent efficiency level. We hope we could
improve our process to make 12 percent efficient
solar cells within the next two years.
What are the commercial possibilities
for inkjet-secreted solar cells?
When talking about solar cells, people most
likely think about solar panels on roofs and in
power stations. Of course, that is the largest field
for solar panels. There are also lots of applications
of solar cells in electric devices. Since we use an
inkjet printer, which can print and pattern solar
cells directly on substrates without further processing
steps such as lithography, for example, it
is possible to print solar cells directly into electronic
circuits such as remote/wireless sensors or
controllers. This is very difficult for other coating
techniques such as traditional vacuum-based deposition
techniques.
Could this also revitalize the market
for inkjet printers?
Yes, it is possible. Considering the different properties
between our inks for solar cells and traditional
printing inks, we will have to redesign the
printer head for inks used in the printing of solar
cells. Actually, there are several inkjet manufacturers
that have already started to develop different
inkjet printers for various purposes.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 61

game changers
Ventures
A Growing Need
Oregon Food Bank’s Rachel Bristol actively
seeks to end to her business and hunger
by Jennifer Cossey
photos by Aubrie LeGault
It is an understatement to say that Rachel Bristol is passionate
about her work. Vigor, pride and frustration are Bristol’s constant
companions after twenty years as chief executive officer for the
Oregon Food Bank. Her deep concern for the people of Oregon who
struggle to feed themselves and their families is palpable and her enthusiasm
to bring change is contagious.
Bristol, 55, grew up in Beaverton and was raised in a family committed
to community involvement and service. “I grew up with the idea
that you don’t ever waste anything, and even though you don’t necessarily
have much, you share what you have,” she says. With those core
values, Bristol left for college to seek a degree in community service and
public affairs from the University of Oregon. After graduating in 1982,
at the height of a recession, Bristol found herself in the overpopulated
land of the educated and unemployed. She worked odd jobs to get by
until she fought her way into a volunteer position at the statewide food
organization, Oregon Food Share. Oregon Food Share later merged
with another local organization and became Oregon Food Bank. In
1990, Bristol was named executive director and has stayed in that post,
helping to feed Oregon’s hungry and working to develop the food bank
into a lifeline for millions of Oregon’s low- or no-income residents.
The Oregon Food Bank has grown exponentially in the last ten years,
and while Bristol would rather see it contract, the food bank will continue
to expand to meet the needs of a ballooning population in need.
“In my heart of hearts, I don’t want it to grow,” she says. “I know we are
going to have to face what is happening with federal and state budget
cuts. The demand is going to rise.”
The Oregon Food Bank is beginning strategy sessions to plan its
growth for the next five years. Amidst the high unemployment of a
sluggish economy, need will almost certainly increase. “This year we
distributed a record amount of food, probably between 43 and 45 million
pounds, just through the food bank.”
Seeing people struggle every day can be a challenge for one’s morale,
but Bristol, though deeply troubled by the hunger in her state, stays
perpetually positive. She is inspired daily by her staff, who bring creativity
and passion to their work. Her enthusiasm suffuses the community,
which shows its support through donations and other activities.
One capstone event for the food bank is the Waterfront Blues Festival
in Portland, which takes place in July with nearly 100 acts. Last
year alone, featured performers included Lucinda Williams, Buddy
Guy, Maceo Parker, The Rebirth Brass Band and Bobby Radcliff. Over
the past five years, average annual donations for the event have been
$600,000 and 100,000 pounds of food. Initial figures suggest that this
year’s event raised close to $750,000 and 110,000 pounds of food.
“I am totally energized by the community,” says Bristol. “This work
brings people together. There are so many trying to change things. It
gives me so much hope. Hope is always there.”
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 63

Ventures
game changers
Regional Food Banks of Oregon
The Oregon Food Bank Network serves a large geographic area that covers
diverse urban and rural communities. Each presents challenges and
opportunities for organizations that serve people with low incomes. A
statewide network ensures efficient and equitable distribution across
Oregon and Clark County, Washington.
8
8
8
Making the difference
OFB distributes food to twenty regional
food banks, which, in turn, distribute
food to 947 local agencies and programs.
The OFB Network serves an average of
240,000 hungry people each month.
In 2009-10, volunteers contributed
93,000 hours, the equivalent of 45
full-time employees.
The OFB Network moved a record 72
8
million pounds of food in 2010.
A third of those receiving emergency
8 food are children.
The OFB Network
For Bristol, there is little separation between work and home, so
personal time becomes important. She and her husband, Jim Abrahamson,
(who manages low-income energy assistance programs) live
in Sellwood. There she tends to her strawberries and other fruit when
time allows. “My garden is my sanctuary,” she confesses.
Bristol has helped build her organization into the local food bank
for Portland and a network of nineteen food banks throughout the
state, which, in turn, support 947 partner agencies, feeding more than
240,000 hungry people every month.
As much as she does, as much as the food bank network provides,
there is always more that needs to be done. “We really need to take
a look at food policy in this country,” Bristol acknowledges. “We are
working off of old systems that are leaving more and more people
behind in terms of the types of jobs and wages that they need to live.
There is still a lot we can do in looking at our food policies at a local
level, at a state level and at the national level. ”
For Bristol, her staff at the Oregon Food Bank and the community,
teaching people how to garden, educating them about nutrition and
helping them find jobs are a few of the ways change is taking root. It was
never about a handout. “When I accepted the job of executive director,
I really felt strongly that we are never going to end hunger with charity
alone and we need to really look at the root causes of hunger and work
towards public policies that will help prevent it.”
A typical emergeny food box provides a
8 three- to five-day supply of groceries.
All Hands on Deck
Donate time, food or money to help fellow Oregonians
VOLUNTEER
Volunteering is a national
pastime that has real rewards
for everyone involved. The
food bank has positions in
which volunteers can contribute
individually or as a
family.
DONATE FOOD
Canned meats, box meals
and peanut butter are the
most sought foods.
HARVEST DINNER
Attend the fundraising gala dinner 6 p.m. on Saturday, Oct. 15, at Oregon Food
Bank’s headquarters in northeast Portland.
MONTHLY SUSTAINER
Sign up to give any amount to the food bank on a monthly basis.
1859 SUBSCRIPTION
1859 will donate $10 to the Oregon Food Bank for any new subscription at
1859magazine.com/foodbank.
Oregon Food Bank
oregonfoodbank.org
64 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Your legacy is our expertise.
For more than 40 years, the estate planning attorneys of
have been helping clients in Oregon and Washington prepare for their future. By
intently listening to our clients, carefully reviewing relevant details regarding their
estates, discussing a broad range of alternatives with them, and then
meticulously drafting documents, we deliver estate plans that meet our clients'
personal objectives, while minimizing exposure to taxes.
Estate Planning Group
David K. McAdams
Robert T. Huston
Anita H. Grinich
R. Brent Berselli
503.224.3092 | 1001 SW Fifth Avenue, Suite 2000 Portland, Oregon | cablehuston.com
Wills | Trusts | Tax Planning | Retirement Beneficiary Planning | Life Insurance Planning | Gift Planning for Individuals and Charities | Powers of Attorney | Advance Directives

happy
hill
by BOB WOODWARD
A DeprESSion-erA family adventUre
along tHE RogUE River

photo by Bob Woodward

Happy Hill
Rivers often become a thread running through a familial history—their waters
the sustaining lifeblood for generations of hunter-gatherers, modernday
farmers, fishermen and families that simply seek them out for recreation.
Rounding a bend in the Rogue River’s Wild and Scenic section
near Winkle Bar, rafter and guide Eddy Miller pointed to a clearing
on a hillside along the river’s northern banks. “There," he pointed,
“is Happy Hill."
It became a multigenerational identity for Eddy Miller, who embodied
the beauty of the Rogue River. He was the consummate
boatman—methodical in his approach, accomplished at reading
water and deft with the oars.
The story of Happy Hill and how the Miller family came to the
land, connected to it and the Rogue River begins in 1928.
Eddy Miller’s grandfather, Astoria
and later Roseburg lumberman,
Charles, grandmother Lesley and
great grandmother Jessie, traveled
from Portland to make a fishing trip
on the Rogue.
The women were “the first two
women to make the arduous trip,”
according to an old diary of Eddy
Miller’s aunt Laurie Cummins.
After meeting some homesteaders
near Winkle Bar, seventeen miles
west of the Grave Creek put in, “Dad
fell in love with the place and bought
a half acre to build a cabin on as soon
as possible," Cummins continued.
"Dad wanted to spend a year living in
the wilderness; mother wanted to go
to Europe. So they compromised on
eight months on the Rogue and four
months in Europe.”
In the summer of 1929, without
fanfare or a single sentence of press
coverage, Eddy's grandparents,
Charles and Lesley Miller, along
with their children Laurie, Charles
Jr. and Jessie, undertook their first
big family adventure, living life high
on a hill above the Rogue without
refrigeration, radio or telephone.
After getting to Grants Pass (population
4,666), the girls and their
mother embarked on a two-day pack-train trip to Happy Hill while
the men set out, according to Lesley Miller’s diary account, “in a
newly constructed 17-foot rowboat loaded with blanket rolls, two
suitcases, a motor for the boat, two pairs of oars, two fishing baskets,
three guns, four fishing rods, a basket of food, camp kit, a
bridge table and a kitchen stove.”
The boating party reached Rainey Falls at 7 a.m. on August 3.
They portaged around the falls and headed downstream, stopping
at Russian Bar for lunch.
Following lunch, Miller Sr. and Jr. walked around the rapid below
the bar leaving it to Grants Pass hired boatman E.J. Allen to guide
the boat through.
In her diary, Lesley Miller wrote: ”Allen took the boat through,
but she was too heavily laden. She swamped and capsized in twelve feet
of water at the foot of the rapids. Lost everything but a bedroll which was
picked up a mile downriver.”
By August 6, the entire Miller clan reunited at Happy Hill. “We
had our canvas fly put up under the large oak in front of the frame
work of our house," Miller’s diary reads. "Under this we have a
camp bed and a cot for each of the
three children, a bridge table for
books and lanterns, two camp chairs
and a piece of canvas to step on.
Here we will reside until our shack
is finished.
“It is the most gorgeous spot imaginable
surrounded by wooded hills,
which separate just enough to show
the most perfect view of the Rogue
River winding through the canyon a
mile and a half below.”
With the help of their nearest
neighbor, Mr. Kelly, the Miller house
soon started taking shape. Assisting
Mr. Kelly was one Walter Critser
who, “lives up on top of the mountain,
makes moonshine and is a pretty
tough article.”
The men helping build the Miller
place were also constructing cabins
for author Zane Grey down at the
river’s edge. “They will be glad when
the work is finished," Miller noted of
the workers. "They would rather fish
and hunt and sit around than have
regular jobs which, of course, is why
they’re out here in the first place.”
On August 10, after marveling at
the frightfully hot days followed by
cool nights, Lesley Miller wrote:
“During the hot weather, thousands
of fish lie in the cool mouth of the creek, and it’s a wonderful
sight that can be seen from the rocks above.”
When not watching the fish or fishing, the children practiced
their musical instruments, still without a roof over their heads,
as the bucolic summer unfolded.
By mid-August the house was finished. In late August the
Millers received their first mail in months. “Charles and I went
to bed and then sitting up by the light of a dim lantern read all
our letters from home.”
68 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Charles E. Miller, fishing rod in
hand, with his friend Holt
Webster on the Rogue in 1929.
Eddy Miller’s grandmother, Lesley
Miller, from atop Happy Hill
in 1971. Lesley Miller at Happy
Hill in 1929. The twins, Jessie
and Eddy Miller, making music.
Jessie Miller and her brother
with kittens on the Rogue at
Happy Hill in 1929. The Millers
spotted a bear along the Rogue
during their stay.
Photos courtesy of the Miller family
photo by Cort Vaughan

Charles E. Miller with children Jessie
and Eddy at Caverhill Lake in British
Columbia.
Courtesy of Wendy Miller Johnson
“I never saw him without a smile on his face,
and his favorite line for
everything was `that’s incredible.'"
—Franz Helfenstein, a friend of Eddy Miller

Happy Hill
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
A sketch of daily life on the Rogue from Lesley Miller.
Eddy Miller and wife, Ann, on the Rogue.
Eddy Miller hooks a trophy steelhead .
August flowed into September and October with daily hikes, fishing excursions
and swims. With the Happy Hill cabin built, there was shelter and the
comfort of a warm fire at the end of the day.
In November, as winter set in, the Millers decided to end their Rogue stay. A
diary entry dated November 20 said: “We came back to the upper end of Winkle
Bar where we built our fire, cooked bacon and had lunch. Charles Jr. caught
a steelhead and wonders if it will be his last this year. The oak trees haven’t
shed their leaves yet—they are still a marvelous golden shade and the ground
covered with leaves is the same. It’s as if we’re walking through golden forests.”
November 21, one of the neighbor’s hens took the place of a turkey for a
Thanksgiving dinner. The children made place cards, we shined apples for table
decorations and strung wild rosehips for cranberries with which to decorate
the turkey. We all dressed up in our best clothes, spoke pieces and altogether,
had a perfect evening all and at the end telling what we were most thankful for.”
Two days later, Eddy Miller's grandmother's diary entry reads: “Left Happy
Hill after four of the happiest months of our lives, with the rest of our sabbatical
year still to come.”
Much of the remainder of that year would be spent in Paris and the year
would become a major event in Miller family history with the wilderness chapter
of that story deeply ingrained in Eddy Miller’s psyche.
The stories from Happy Hill left a lasting impression on Eddy Miller, who
would become an accomplished outdoorsman, rafter, river guide, fly-fisherman,
skier and hiker. The outdoors and adventure were in his blood. There
were childhood fishing trips with his father on the Umpqua and Rogue rivers
and family fishing camp at a remote spot in British Columbia with his twin
sister Jessie, and sisters Wendy and Cameron.
“There, they fished, split and stacked wood, improved trails, washed their
clothes by hand, picked huckleberries and lived a rustic life,” Eddy Miller’s wife,
Ann, recalled.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 71

Happy Hill
“I always loved how my grandparents made a snap decision to
live on the river and did it,” said Miller as he worked the oars on a
raft loaded down with gear on his final Rogue trip last spring. "Of
course, the story of the men losing all the gear in the river was a
family favorite.”
It would be hard to imagine Eddy
Miller losing all the gear and his raft on
something as tame, by modern standards,
as the rapids at Russian Bar. On
what would be his last float down the
Rogue past Happy Hill, he navigated every
obstacle and every rapid without his
raft taking on so much as a drop of water.
Miller looked every bit the part of the
river guide from his lean, well-tanned,
muscular frame to his sharp piercing eyes
and shock of prematurely white hair.
In camp, his gear was spartan in comparison
to the hikers he was supporting
on their multi-day trek along the Rogue River Trail. His biggest luxury
was an ultralight cot he used for sleeping. All else was trimmed
down to the essentials. Those essentials included his fly-fishing
gear and a vast knowledge of the Rogue’s flora and fauna.
A trip with Eddy Miller was an adventure in river lore.
“He was always ready to lead a group on a bird watching or plant
On what would be his last
flOAt down the Rogue pASt
Happy Hill, he navigated
every obstacle and every rapid
without his raft taking on so
much as a drop of water.
identification excursion,“ said longtime friend and well respected
international whitewater river explorer, Franz Helfenstein, “and if
nobody wanted to go, he’d be off on his own.
“I never saw him without a smile on his face, and his favorite line
for everything was, ‘That’s incredible.'"
In 1970, one of his advisers at The
Fountain Valley School of Colorado,
where Miller prepped, wrote that he
was, “a great kid with a zest for life.
His buoy and optimism is the stuff
that helps keep the world afloat.”
Less than a month after floating
past Happy Hill and regaling his fellow
boatmen with the stories of the family
adventure of 1929, Miller, 56, slipped
and fell to his death. He was hiking
during a layover on a rafting trip at the
Middle Fork of Idaho’s Salmon River.
Helfenstein was in the rafting party
and stayed until his friend's body was recovered.
Like his grandfather and father, Eddy's teacher was the river, his
students passengers along his river trips. As with many Oregonians,
Miller's life was a wilderness adventure undertaken with a
serene smile. Happy Hill is still in the Miller family, albeit now as
a sequestered retreat for Eddy Miller’s aunt, Laurie Cummins.
72 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

photo by Bob Woodward
photo by Bob Woodward
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
OPPOSITE Miller in 2009 along the Rogue.
ABOVE Miller swaps stories with a group of
Rogue hikers.
LEFT With his drift boat on one of his last
trips down the Wild and Scenic Rogue.
photo by Franz Helfenstein
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 73

Happy Hill
Mu CrK
e
an re’s cAn
GrE CrK
(U I)
HoE Sh
Be
tY apI
I
Wi A RaD
I
BaL A
aie aL
V
BlK A
LoE
roguish
delights
how to hike, bike, run or flOAt
the wild and scenic rogue river
float
The most popular way to enjoy the forty-four-mile stretch of
the Wild and Scenic section of the Rogue River is by raft, drift
boat or kayak.
Floating the Wild and Scenic Rogue between May 1 and October
15 requires a BLM permit (or.blm.gov/Rogueriver). Permits
are doled out via a lottery system with all float trips checking
in at the Grave Creek put-in near the town of Galice.
A majority of float-trippers bring along all their gear and
camp out at least two nights while on the river. That noted,
some floaters opt to travel light and take advantage of dining
and sleeping in riverside lodges (see next page).
MaA LoE
BlO A
PaDi LoE
Cl Hi
LoE
llA oD
LoR SoTu
A
FoE A
wI iV oD
hike
For those who would rather make a Wild and Scenic hike, a
trail parallels the entire section of the river. Permits are not
required for hiking, but if a hiking group wants to stay in
lodges, reservations are required. No matter which direction
(Grave Creek to Illahe or vice versa), those planning to stay
at Black Bar Lodge will get a rowboat ride (provided by the
lodge) across the river and back to the trail the next day.
Some hiking groups prefer camping out and will make arrangements
for gear support from raft companies such as
Rogue Wilderness (wildrogue.com) and Rogue River Raft
Trips (rogueriverraft.com)
Hiking or floating, car shuttles can be arranged through rafting
companies or through Galice Resort. (galice.com)
run / bike
Running or biking the Rogue River Trail downriver or upriver
over two days is becoming more popular. When running from
Grave Creek downriver, it’s important to make sure the Illahe
Lodge is open and ready to accept overnight guests.
When running upriver from Illahe, plan to get a ride into the
town of Galice near the Grave Creek trailhead for an overnight
stay at Galice Resort before returning to Illahe.
74 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Happy Hill
lodges on the
wild and scenic rogue
black bar lodge, merlin
•Located ten miles downriver from Grave Creek across the river from the Rogue River Trail
•Access is by float craft or the lodge will ferry from the trail
•Reservations only
•Maximum of thirty-six people
•Black Bar will accommodate anyone in May, limited spaces after June 1
•Open May-November / 541.479.6507 / blackbarlodge.net
clay hill lodge, lyons
•Located thirty-three miles downriver from Grave Creek, about six miles upriver from Foster Bar
•Access is by boat, powerboat or hiking
•Reservations only
•Maximum of twenty guests
•Open May-November / 503.859.3772 / clayhilllodge.com
marial lodge, grants pass
•Located twenty-four miles downriver from Grave Creek
•Access by float craft, automobile and hiking
•Reservations only
•Open May 1-November 15 / 541.474.2057
paradise lodge, mile 58 on the rogue
•Located twenty-four miles downriver from Grave Creek, just below Blossom Bar,
fifty-two miles upriver from Gold Beach
•Access by boat, tour boat, hiking trail or airplane
•Reservations only
•Maximum of fifty-five guests
•Open May-November / 541.842.2822 / paradise-lodge.com
illahe lodge, agness
•Open on an irregular basis
•541.247.6111
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 75

1
ON THE SET
Lee Remick (left) in Newport during the shooting of
Sometimes a Great Notion, a 1970 Paul Newman-directed
adaptation of Ken Kesey's novel by the same name.
photo by Gerry Lewin
76 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

On The Set
Oregon's film and television industry
contemplates a post-Kesey breakout
by LUCY BURNINGHAM
N THE COLORFUL LANDSCAPE OF OREGON’S FILM INDUSTRY, a place
connected with such names as Gus Van Sant and Carrie Brownstein,
Martin Vavra struggles for recognition. Portland-based Vavra does film
and video production through his company, Galaxy Sailor Productions,
which came to life after the 40-year-old lost his middle school science teaching
job in 2008.
From the outside, Vavra's new gig appears successful. His website is posted
with accomplishments. He has directed, edited and shot short films, produced
commercials and shot music videos. He directed Patrick’s Story, a short documentary
film about one man struggling for same-sex couples’ rights that won
Best Short Documentary at the 2011 Breckenridge Film Festival. In some circles,
Vavra is best known for writing, directing and producing "The Last Stand," an
online post-apocalyptic zombie series knotted with suspense and oozing with
blood—a project he calls, “a whim that went further than I imagined.” Still creating
ripples in the small pond of Oregon’s film industry has its perks, he admits.
“I’m not part of an assembly line,” he says. “I learn at my own rate.”
Even though paying projects are hard fought in a state known
more for logging and salmon, the fledgling film and TV industry
that began on sets graced by Ken Kesey adaptations and Jack Nicholson
performances is expected to jump to a $110 million enterprise
by the end of this year with hundreds of locals on its payroll.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 77

On The Set
CUT
2
The Industry
The same week Vavra struggles for compensation and recognition
also happens to be one of the busiest for Oregon’s film industry.
The dry season has flooded Portland’s streets with closures, directors
yelling, “Quiet on the set!” car explosions and cop chases. This is
the location of three television series that are being shot in Portland
simultaneously: TNT’s Boston cop drama “Leverage,” IFC’s comedy
skit series “Portlandia” and the first season of
NBC’s “Grimm,” a cop drama dusted with elements
of thriller fantasy inspired by Grimm’s
Fairy Tales.
“We’ve had an overwhelming amount of
interest in filming here this year,” says Vince
Porter, executive director of the Oregon Governor’s
Office of Film and Television, a group
of industry insiders who serve as a marketing
agency to bring film and television projects to
the state.
The flurry of action in Portland represents
good news for Oregon’s film industry, Porter
explains. In 2009, film and television work
brought in $62 million. Porter says his office
expects 2011 will bring in $110 million to
the state. He attributes the financial boost
not only to the three television series being
filmed in Portland, but ongoing work for
more than 300 animators at the Hillsboro animation
studio Laika on a feature film called
ParaNorman.
The Office of Film and Television, a semi-independent state
agency funded primarily by the state lottery, works hard to raise the
state’s profile with Hollywood. An influential incentive system pits
state against state when it comes to garnering film projects. Out of
the forty states that offer film incentives, Oregon’s incentives rank
in the lower third in terms of how much money the state ultimately
offers to film producers, Porter says. “Despite that, we have other advantages
that, once we engage in conversation, we’re getting our fair
share of work,” he says.
Of course, there’s only one location in America that gets any kind
of film work without incentives—Las Vegas, Porter notes. “If you’re
“We've turned away
at least three feature
films and probably another
television series
because we've maxed
out our incentives. The
demand is far beyond
our supply."
—Vince Porter
Executive director, Oregon Governor's
Office of Film and Television
going to make the movie The Hangover, there’s really only one place
you’ll go,” he says. While Oregon may not a have Bellagio or a Strip,
it is a short flight to L.A., has a deep pool of talented creatives eager
for work and has a high quality of life. These factors, combined with
incentives, have lured some major studio-backed films to the state in
recent years, including Twilight and Extraordinary Measures.
During this year’s legislative session—a
period of significant budget cuts for many
state agencies—the Film and Television Office’s
annual budget was cut 20 percent to
$6 million from $7.5 million. “We’ve turned
away at least three feature films, and probably
another television series, because we’ve
maxed out our incentives,” Porter says. “The
demand is far beyond our supply.”
Critics of the system aren’t lamenting the
loss. They argue that Oregon’s incentives
are flawed—that film projects might still
materialize without financial perks. They
add that the incentives don’t create longterm
economic infrastructure thanks to
the temporary nature of film work. Porter
counters that repeated projects, in particular,
television series, create living wage jobs
with benefits and long-term opportunities
for career advancement for everyone from
grips to actors.
David Cress, the general producer for
“Portlandia,” says the show’s star, Carrie Brownstein, who lives in
Portland and previously shot a film and music videos here, helped
steer the decision to shoot locally as opposed to creating a faux Portland
in, say, Vancouver, B.C.
“Carrie’s reassurance and proof of her prior video work proved
that there was a competent crew base here,” he says. “Portland’s
known to have a fairly active film community. Even some cities that
are bigger don’t quite have the same film base.”
While Cress can’t reveal the budget for the IFC production, he
says the show employs between forty and seventy-five cast and crew
members, depending on the day, during filming.
78 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

QUESTIONS FOR FRED ARMISEN - IFC'S "PORTLANDIA"
Fred Armisen, center, leads a
merry band of cast members
of "Portlandia," an IFC show
that some call an illumination
of the Portland scene.
In what way has "Portlandia" changed your life? ARMISEN It's brought me closer to the city of Portland.
Closer to my friends here. It's helped me with writing, too.
People say Portland is a lot like New York, just a lot smaller, a lot cleaner, a lot greener and a lot
different. How do you respond to that? ARMISEN I could see that. It's like parts of Brooklyn, too.
Do you own a bike? What kind? ARMISEN I don't.
photo by Scott Green / IFC
What else in Portland would be improved with a bird? ARMISEN The traffic lights. There should be bird
silhouettes in those I think.
Can you give us some insight into the second season? Who dies? ARMISEN Nobody ever dies. There will
be many births. In fact it will be all births.
QUESTIONS FOR SASHA ROIZ - NBC'S "GRIMM"
On set in Portland in NBC's
"Grimm." Sasha Roiz, left, as
Captain Renard, with David
Guintoli, center, as detective
Nick Burckhardt and his
partner, Hank Griffin played
by Russell Hornsby.
photo by Scott Green / NBC
What were your impressions of shooting in Portland? ROIZ At that time, wet. Currently, perfection.
Did you have any preconceptions of what Portlanders would be like?
ROIZ Hipster, granola? Although I wasn't that far from the truth. I have met many other subcultures and wonderful
people. One thing that they all share in common is that they are very gracious and hospitable.
How does shooting in Portland compare to L.A. or Toronto? ROIZ It's refreshing to be in a city that hasn't
"been there, done that" in regards to the entertainment industry. People still get excited about us being here, and
that in turn makes us excited to be here.
Do you have favorite hangouts in Portland? ROIZ Every place that serves food is my favorite place. Clearly,
too many to mention. This city is disturbingly delicious.

On The Set
3CUT
A Brief History of
Oregon Film
Well before then-Governor Ted Kulongoski initiated the state’s film
incentive program in 2005, Oregon had been playing host to filmmakers
for nearly a century. The state’s first film,The Fisherman’s Bride, was
shot in 1908 in Astoria, a town with a winning combination of salt,
grit, historic buildings and easy access to seascapes. As one of the most
prominent filming locations in Oregon, Astoria has received plenty of
monetary infusions from the film industry, a fact that’s celebrated at
the town’s new Oregon Film Museum.
The museum opened last year, just in time for the twenty-fifth anniversary
celebration of the filming of The Goonies. The event drew
about 5,000 visitors to a town with a population of 10,000. “A number
of local businesses talked about how they paid their rent in one day,”
says Mac Burns, executive director of Clatsop County Historical Society,
which operates the film museum.
The 1985 film about some kids’ adventure inspired by a pirate treasure
map made ripples well beyond last year’s weekend-long celebration.
“Goonies has had a long-term impact unlike any other Oregon
“I feel that the film
industry has finally
arrived. People don't
think you're crazy
anymore if you think
Oregon can have a
film industry."
—Katherine Wilson
Film scout and screenplay writer
film,” says Porter. “They don’t have an Animal House
convention in Eugene.”
The Goonies isn’t the only quintessential Oregon
film, says Katherine Wilson, a sixth-generation Oregonian
who got her start in the film industry in the
late '60s in Eugene. Wilson started modeling and
acting locally, which led her to Hollywood director
Mark Rydell. Rydell introduced her to other Hollywood
directors and producers in need of talent.
“Back then, talent agencies in L.A. had beautiful, exotic
people,” she says. “Mine were everyday people
off the street.” Soon after successfully casting a few
films, she found herself scouting Oregon locations
for an Evel Knievel film.
The production manager of that film, Peter McGregor-Scott, called
her six months later in search of a location for the movie Animal
House. “I said, ‘Boy, did you come to the right place. This is the home
of the Merry Pranksters,’” Wilson recalls, invoking the band of LSD
marauders led by Eugene's Ken Kesey. “Before I knew it, we were trying
to find twenty-seven locations in four hours and ship a reel to L.A.”
During her singular living experiment in L.A., in the summer of
1973, Wilson attempted to cash in on a scholarship to study film at
the University of Southern California but says she quickly realized
she did not possess many “urban coping skills.” She soon returned to
Oregon. That one summer in Hollywood, though, produced an idea.
“Filmmakers wanted to go on location,” she recalls. “They didn’t want
to make films in Hollywood. I decided we could make Oregon Hollywood’s
back lot.”
Eventually she worked as the governor’s liaison to the set of One
Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which was filmed in Salem and Depoe
Bay, and ten years later, as the location scout and casting director
for Stand by Me. Since 1969, she and her husband, Philip Krysl, have
worked on a combined fifty films in Oregon.
“It’s not been an easy career until recently,” she says. “You never
knew when your next film would break in Oregon.” But she says she
senses a new momentum this year. “I feel that the film industry has
finally arrived. People don’t think you’re crazy anymore if you think
Oregon can have a film industry.”
In addition to her work in scouting and casting, Wilson writes
screenplays. She’s currently shopping a finished screenplay about
Chief Joseph’s nephew, Jackson Sundown. She passed on two offers
for financing, which would have taken the film to either Michigan
or Canada. “I’m holding out,” she says. “I know my film will get made
in Oregon and will pay living wages to everybody involved.”
Those living wages could provide work to a healthy population of
Portland’s film industry—largely independent filmmakers willing
to move to more mainstream projects. These filmmakers, a
subset of the city’s creative class, have largely
helped define Oregon’s reputation as a filming
destination.
For many, including Portland-based writer
Jon Raymond, who co-wrote the screenplays
for Wendy and Lucy and Meek’s Cutoff, the
film industry came to them.
As a fiction writer, Raymond says he never
planned to go into the film industry. But he
met director Todd Haynes when he moved to
Portland, which led him to Kelly Reichardt, the
director of Wendy and Lucy and Meek’s Cutoff.
“My opportunities in Oregon have boiled down
to those two people,” he explains. Raymond’s
latest collaboration with Haynes—an HBO series starring Kate
Winslet called “Mildred Pierce”—will air this fall.
Raymond calls himself a “Portland booster” and doesn’t plan to
live anywhere else despite the challenges. “The state has a patron relationship
with the larger world economy," he says, "which is partly
what makes it a pleasant place to live.”
By living outside of New York and L.A., Raymond says he’s able to
work on personally meaningful projects and averts what he calls the
patchwork approach of being “sucked into the garbage economy.”
“To do something here, you have to be more self-directed,” Raymond
says. “There’s less temptation to do things you don’t care
about.”
That attitude could help define Oregon as a different kind of filming
destination. In the meantime, says Vavra, “It’s a lot of competition
for scraps. But that is how you cut your teeth and make it. If you
want it bad enough, you stick with it long enough and do it right.”
80 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Courtesy of Oregon Film Museum
On The On Set
Behind the scenes of
The Set
The Goonies (left to right)
Jeff Cohen (Chunk),
Sean Astin (Mikey),
Jonathan Ke Quan (Data)
a n d Co rey Fe l d m a n ( M o u th )
While on the set of his
newest film, Restless,
Gus Van Sant directs actors
(left to right)
Henry Hopper and
Mia Wasikowska.
photo by Scott Green
Courtesy of Sony Pictures Classics
Courtesy of Katherine Wilson
At the premiere of
One Flew Over The
Cuckoo's Nest in Salem,
Katherine Wilson,
governor's liaison to
the set, and director
Milos Forman.
Director Martin Vavra
gives instructions on the
set of "Rise Again," a
zombie-themed music
video for the band
Cold Metal, in
Banks, Oregon.
photo by Dominik Kruger
Courtesy of Oscilloscope Laboratories
Paul Dano as Thomas
Gately in Meek's Cutoff,
written by Oregonian
Jon Raymond.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN
1859 2011 oregon's
81

Paul Newman, in Newport, tried his
On The Set
hand at film directing for the second
time in Sometimes a Great Notion.
In 1972, New York Times film critic,
Vincent Canby said Newman "has
been remarkably successful both in
creating vivid, quite complicated
characters and in communicating the
sense of beautiful idiocy that is the
strength of the two older Stampers."
82 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
photo by Gerry Lewin

NOTABLE FILMS AND TELEVISION SERIES
SHOT IN OREGON
On The Set
FILM/TV Year on LOCATION
"Portlandia" 2010 Portland
Meek’s Cutoff 2009 Harney County
Coraline 2008 Portland
Twilight 2008 Portland, Oxbow Park, St. Helens, Carver
Mr. Holland’s Opus 1994 Portland
Kindergarten Cop 1990 Astoria
Drugstore Cowboy 1988 Portland
Stand By Me 1985 Eugene, Cottage Grove, Brownsville
"From Oregon with Love" 1984 Central Oregon
The Goonies 1984 Astoria
Animal House 1978 Eugene
The Shining 1977 Timberline Lodge
One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest 1975 Salem, Depoe Bay
Sometimes a Great Notion 1970 Newport, Toledo
Paint Your Wagon 1969 Baker City
WRITERS
Todd Haynes | writer/director | Far from Heaven and I’m Not There
Jon Raymond | screenwriter | Wendy and Lucy and Meek’s Cutoff
Mike Rich | screenwriter | Finding Forrester and Secretariat
Gus Van Sant | director of Good Will Hunting, Milk and Elephant | Wrote My Own Private Idaho and
Drugstore Cowboy | Nominated for two Oscars
Todd Semmes | visual effects | creator of Spydercam, a suspended camera system used in Spiderman 1-3
and Mission Impossible 1-3.
Will Vinton | developer of Claymation and stop-motion animation | created the California Raisins and The Noid
ACTORS
Scott Coffey
Rainn Wilson
William Hurt
Patrick Duffy
Ty Burrell
Kim Novak
Ginger Rogers
Actor/writer with appearances in Tank Girl, Mullholland Drive and Ellie Parker
Dwight Schrute on the television series "The Office," has a house in Sisters
Kiss of the Spider Woman, The Big Chill, Syriana, The Good Shepherd, Too Big to
Fail, has a house in Central Oregon
"Man from Atlantis," "Dallas," lives near Eagle Point, Oregon
"Modern Family," born in Grants Pass and raised in the Applegate Valley
Picnic, Vertigo, The Man with the Golden Arm, lives in Eagle Point, Oregon
42nd Street, "Gold Diggers of 1933," "Kitty Foyle", owned a ranch outside of
Shady Cove, Oregon
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 83

gallery
Grain Elevators
by AUBRIE LEGAULT
84 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

gallery
WE SENT PHOTOGRAPHER Aubrie LeGault out to Heppner and highways
207 and 74 to capture what we thought might make an interesting
photo subject—grain elevators. She stunned us with this beautiful
tribute to farmers in the Blue Mountain Valley. Her photos represent
a heightened attention to detail and love affair with the subject. There
were too many incredible shots for just these four pages, so we created
an online gallery for her at 1859magazine.com.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 85

gallery
86 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

gallery
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 87

Gourmet Oregon
Gourmet
OREGON
Eat, Stray, Love
DINING AT 7,000 FEET
a night from spain with
an oregon
institution
DINING ROOM
WITH A VIEW
BROADWAY
FOR
FOODIES
CULINARY SCHOOL DINING ROOMS
OREGONDIY FOOD TOURS
BOUNTY 101
BEST SEAT IN THE BARN
1859
A CHEESY
EXPERIENCE
Tastiest Show on Earth
88 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Gourmet Oregon
TEN
culinary experiences that will take you from
FARM to TABLE to FOOD CART to the SUBLIME
Whether you’re a foodie who plans your outings around your taste
buds or a traveler who understands that to know a place is to know its
cuisine, gourmet experiences in Oregon are growing in number and
in quality—bringing the best in culinary culture to your doorstep.
by SARAH MAX
n 1954, when The New York Times dubbed Oregon native James Beard the “dean of American
cookery,” television dinners were commonplace, the microwave was on its way to
becoming a household essential and a traveling salesman named Roy Kroc was on the verge of
launching a fast-food nation. Slow food (which until the 1950s was simply called, “food”) seemed
destined for extinction. Beard, however, stayed true to his fresh-is-best, less-is-more philosophy.
He traveled the country teaching classes, wrote more than two dozen cookbooks and inspired a
generation of foodies.
More than half a century later, the Beard movement is stronger than ever in homes and in restaurants.
It’s only fitting that Beard’s home state would be front and center in a culinary renaissance,
where convenience food is a CSA and independent food carts are giving national drive-ins
a run for their money.
This love of food, meanwhile, has paved the way for culinary experiences that go beyond sitting
down to a nice meal. These take you behind the scenes to see where the food is grown, break
bread with the bread-makers and savor the nuances of everything from chocolate to salt.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 89

Gourmet Oregon
BROADWAY
FOR
FOODIES
When the show begins at EVOO in Cannon Beach, your first instinct
may be to desperately start scribbling notes so you can recreate the
feast at home. Don’t bother. Even if you could keep up with fasttalking
Bob Neroni, better to watch and learn than record every last
ingredient. You can access the recipes online later. “Our goal is for
you to learn techniques, see recipes come together, relax and be entertained,”
says Neroni, who was executive chef at many prestigious
restaurants around the country before launching EVOO (as in extra
virgin olive oil) in 2004. The three-hour dinners typically include
four courses, wine pairings and a healthy dash of comedic banter
between Neroni and his wife and sidekick, chef Lenore Emery. At
a recent show, while nibbling on homemade ravioli, baked salmon
with savory waffles and Moroccan-spiced tenderloin, we learned
the secret to poaching eggs (vinegar), what not to do when cooking
mushrooms (stir) and what spice enhances virtually every dish (coriander).
Even if your own culinary ambitions are modest, you won’t
be disappointed with the food or the show. The meal itself deserves
a standing ovation.
90 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Gourmet Oregon
A CHEESY
EXPERIE NCE
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 91

Gourmet Oregon
Tastiest Show on Earth
photos by Toki Cavener
92 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Gourmet Oregon
photos courtesy of Turtledove Clemens
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 93

Gourmet Oregon
DINING ROOM
WITH A VIEW
photo by MOSCA photography
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
an oregon
institution
94 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

•••
OREGON
BOUNTY 101
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Gourmet Oregon
BEST SEAT IN THE BARN
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 95

Gourmet Oregon
96 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
photo by Joni Kabana
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
7 DIY FOOD TOURS
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Tour Pine Mountain Buffalo Ranch near Bend. pmrbuffalo.com
Drive the Hood River Fruit Loop. hoodriverfruitloop.com
Take a Tillamook Cheese factory tour (tillamook.com). If you
prefer the stronger stuff, go next door for a wine and cheese
tasting at Blue Heron Cheese. blueheronoregon.com
Work for your veggies at Lost Creek Farm near Eugene.
lostcreekfarmorganics.com
Taste the best chowder November 12, at the Chowder Cookoff in
Lincoln City. oregoncoast.org/culinary
Satisfy any craving at one of Portland’s hundreds of food carts.
foodcartsportland.com
Sample more than forty kinds of olive oils and vinegars at
Benessere in Portland. oilgoodness.com
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
CULINARY SCHOOL DINING ROOMS
Be a guinea pig for future chefs at professional culinary schools
around the state and enjoy prix-fix meals at savory prices.
1 Le Cordon Bleu’s Technique Restaurant in Portland
showcases the school’s emphasis on classic cuisine made
with fresh local ingredients, and for a price that is extraordnaire.
Five-course dinners for $15. techniquerestaurant.com
2 Oregon Culinary Institute in Portland serves three-course
lunches for $9 and four-course dinners for $18 Monday
through Friday. oregonculinaryinstitute.com
3 Cascade Culinary Institute in Bend recently introduced Elevation,
its new student- and staff-run dining lab with an ambitious
menu for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday.
elevationbend.com
4 Coast Culinary Institute in Coos Bay hosts a chef ’s table for
lunch and dinner on Fridays. occi.net

•••••
Gourmet Oregon
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 97

Subscribe
Digital edition
Give a gift
Renew
Change of address
PORTLAND
WILLAMETTE
VALLEY
EUGENE
THE GORGE
MT.
HOOD
SOUTHERN
OREGON
CHERRIES IN THE DALLES ORCHARD VIEW FARMS FEATURED RECIPES HOME GROWN CHEF SUBMIT YOUR RECIPES
READ MORE >> READ MORE >> READ MORE >>
CENTRAL
OREGON
Sign in
E-Newsletter
Letter to the editor
Your Oregon weather
NORTHEASTERN OREGON
SOUTHEASTERN
OREGON
BOOK AN OREGON TRIP | CONNECT WITH US ON FACEBOOK | CONTESTS | SUBSCRIBE | RENEW | GIVE A GIFT | DIGITAL COPY | BACK ISSUES | FIND A COPY
ADVERTISE | CONTACT US | ABOUT US | LOG IN | MY ACCOUNT
Gourmet Oregon
a night from spain with 1859
photos by Carol Sternkopf
VISIT THE NEW 1859MAGAZINE.COM
>>
LIVE • THINK • EXPLORE
nto the Soul of Oregon
98 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
We’ve relaunched our website with
you, the Oregon traveler, in mind. 1859
brings you a wealth of experiences in
print with each issue. Now you can
easily book these and many more Oregon
cultural experiences at our new
1859 Travel section at 1859magazine.
com. Find your next Oregon travel
package already bundled for you.
Explore Oregon
Move the mouse over the map
and click on the region to begin exploring
Regions of Oregon Highlights >>
LIVE • THINK • EXPLORE
nto the Soul of Oregon
1859 Featured Oregon Trips >> Enter a destination
OREGON COAST
plan a trip
destinations interests travel hotel
dashboard
Check In
Check Out
of Guests 1

Clients. Community.
Commitment.
This is what West Coast Bank is all about. We are focused on the
communities and clients we serve and invite you to experience the
difference at West Coast Bank.
• Outstanding client service since 1925
• Financial strength to serve you
• Superior commitment to the community through sustained monetary
and employee volunteer support
• High level commitment to serve you
• 65 branches in Washington and Oregon to serve you
• Call Us Today—We’re HERE to do business with you
“The challenges are great.
So is the opportunity.”
—Tom Rask
Dave Hansen
Portland-Vancouver
Regional President
503–603–8040
Retire Smart at Veranda Park
wcb.com
COMPLEX ENERGY PROJECTS NEED
EXCEPTIONAL LEGAL COUNSEL.
Kell,Alterman & Runstein’s Energy Practice Group knows
the intricacies of the energy market and provides sound legal
solutions. Managing partner Tom Rask and Martha Sharp, the
firm’s resident environmental and energy lawyer, can guide
you seamlessly through the web of siting, permitting and
construction, as well as the many other legal issues surrounding
renewable energy projects.
Energy law is just one of the areas practiced and supported
by Kell,Alterman & Runstein. Our 21 attorneys continue a
proud tradition begun by Gus J. Solomon when he founded
the firm in 1929.While seasoned and experienced, we remain
progressive and more passionate than ever about meeting our
clients’ needs.
Visit Medford’s premier resort-style community for active
seniors who want only the best in comfort and convenience.
n Minutes away from the region’s finest healthcare
n Exclusive programs to help you sell, rent, or move
n All inclusive monthly rentals with no “buy-in fees”
n Spacious cottage and apartment homes available
Call today for a discovery tour or
a complimentary stay!
KELL ALTERMAN & RUNSTEIN LLP
Attorneys
Eight decades of progressive thinking.
Locally Owned and Managed
541-494-5000
1641 Veranda Park Drive, Medford • www.verandaparkliving.com
Portland, OR & Vancouver,WA 503.222.3531 www.kelrun.com

Gourmet Oregon
100 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Food & Home
>>
Kitchen
Remodels &
Cider
102 Farm to Table
Traditional cider stages a
fall comeback.
106
Oregon Recipes
Cider drinks with
a seasonal twist.
109 Home Grown Chef
Tangy chicken in a
cider reduction sauce.
110 Design
Two kitchen remodels
PLUS finds from top
salvage shops.
photo by Carol Sternkopf
Home Grown Chef

Food & Home
farm to table
Oregon 's young cider-makers
explore the old
French and British traditions
An
Apple
Refined
K
evin Zielinski’s eyes light up as he names
the apple varieties he tends at his Willamette
Valley orchard, just outside of Salem.
Champagne Rienette. Douce Moën.
Muscadet de Lense. St. Martine. The sinuous vowels
and soft consonants even sound delicious. Eventually,
they become fluid when Zielinski transforms these
French heirloom apples into a traditional sparkling
hard cider that leaves many searching for words.
With its aromatic bouquet and an earthiness that
goes to the essence of an orchard, E.Z. Orchards Cidre
is a far cry from any commercially available hard ciders.
“What I really want to believe in is the fruit,” says
Zielinski. “Fruit is the essential element.”
by RACHEL BUCCI
Traditional cider apples, not to be confused with
apples made for eating out of hand, are cultivated for
their tannins and flavor profile. These nuanced flavors
range from what cider-makers call bittersweet to bittersharp
and aromatic. It is in the fermentation process
that these flavors sharpen.
Zielinski, a fourth-generation Willamette Valley
farmer, began experimenting with fermentation nearly
twenty years ago. His first forays were with Tuscanstyle
wines and Pinot noir.
Ten years ago, at the behest of his friend Kerry
Norton, then the head winemaker for Eola Hills, Zielinski
planted a little more than an acre of nine kinds
of French cider apples. The plan was for the seasoned
orchardist to nurture and grow the heirlooms for Norton,
who was experimenting with cider. When Norton
moved on, Zielinski ended up selling some apples to cider-makers
and used some to experiment with himself.
For several years, Zielinski made test batches of
cider, gradually refining his process—the balance of
apple varieties, the temperature and length of fermentation,
the harvest and hold times for the apples. When
he finally released 442 cases of his 2009 vintage last fall,
it was the first to market for his label, E.Z. Orchards.
Zielinski’s cider, or cidre, adheres to the French
tradition. Naturally sparkling and resplendent with intense
ripe apple flavor, it’s light on the tongue with a
clean finish. Like most traditional ciders, it has no additives
and relies on the natural yeast in the apples for
fermentation, thus bringing the character of the fruit
to surface.
For those who have never tasted real French cider,
it can be a bit of a surprise, says Zielinski. “I get strong
reactions,” he says. “People have a love-hate reaction
to the strong floral notes.” After he got the nod from
French friends and Francophiles who had tasted the
real deal, though, he knew he was on the right track.
photos by William Bragg & David White
102 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

Food & Home
farm to table
RIGHT Nick Gunn (left) and James
Kohn, co-owners of Wandering
Aengus Cider.
photos by William Bragg
Cider isn’t top of mind with many consumers, but Zielinski says
he’s confident that with the foodie trend fanning out from metro
areas, people are ready to embrace the nuances of traditional cider.
In fact, industry figures show that the public’s thirst for cider
is growing at a fast clip. Data from Symphony IRI, a research firm
working with the national Brewers Association, says retail cider sales
grew 16 percent in 2010, outpacing craft beer, the fastest growing
segment of the beer market. This year is on track for another surge
of 18 percent.
While cider production is still a sliver of the beverage market (total
U.S. cider production is around 360,000 barrels, compared to the
nearly ten million barrels of craft beer sold last year), the growing
circles of cider-drinkers are part of the calculus of Oregon’s larger
traditional cider makers such as Wandering Aengus Ciderworks.
Across town from E.Z. Orchards, Wandering Aengus just completed
the company’s newest venture—a 6,000-square-foot industrial
space where the cider-makers will begin production this fall.
With loans procured through a pilot program from Salem’s Urban
Renewal Agency, Wandering Aengus is building the property in tandem
with two other small businesses.
Wandering Aengus's Tasting Room, carved from the corner of
the warehouse in the Pringle Creek area of southeast Salem, features
a rotation of Wandering Aengus’s eleven offerings, including
ciders ranging from semi-dry and spicy dry-oaked to the floral varietal
Wickson. Finish those with a dessert wine such as the company’s
new Pommeau, made from apple brandy and produced in collaboration
with Portland’s Clear Creek Distillery. The Cider Room will also
offer light fare, local beers, wines and cheeses.
Since Wandering Aengus began operations in 2004, revenue and
production has nearly doubled annually, says James Kohn, Wandering
Aengus co-owner. In 2010, Wandering Aengus bottled 10,000
cases of craft cider. They produced another 1,200 kegs of Anthem cider,
a series of libations finished with hops or the juice of local pears,
cherries or apples, for regional restaurants and brew pubs. In 2010,
revenue surged to $500,000.
Kohn says that the new facility will allow Wandering Aengus to
meet current demand and open the door for expansion into new
markets in the U.S. and internationally. It will provide greater visibility
for the label, along with more production and three times the
current fermentation capacity. Supply of cider apples, however, may
limit growth.
“We have to grow in tandem with the apples,” says Kohn. “We
need to get more growers to grow the heirlooms.”
Heirloom apple varieties are hard to find, need to be picked at the
height of ripeness, and they don’t store well. Wandering Aengus sources
apples from its own orchards in West Salem and in Ashland, and buys
then from heirloom growers in Hood River and Central Oregon.
“Ours is an agricultural process, not an industrial process,” says
Kohn. “We are trying to go back and support the farms. You have to
go for quality in the fruit and pay a price that makes sense.”
Instead of looking to commercial cider production as a model
for growth, Kohn says his eye is on craft brewing and wine makers,
who, like traditional cider producers, have a close relationship with
their growers.
Oregon's craft beer industry, in the end, may have created the
perfect palate for a burgeoning generation of cider drinkers. It is the
growing pool of publicans drinking bitter, dry and hoppy flavor craft
beers that opens the door for trying these new ciders with similar
profiles, says Kohn.
For the moment, the revival of traditional cider is in its infancy,
yet blooming. “We want to lead,” says Kohn. “We want to help build
the cider industry.”
104 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

PROJECT

Oregon Living
oregon recipes
7 Hot and Cold Holiday Cider Drinks
>>
MORE RECIPES
1859MAGAZINE.COM
Rob Melton, bartender at La Capitale, a popular French bistro
in Salem, created this delicate and festive cocktail using E.Z.
Orchards French cider.
Amaretto Sunset Recipe
1/2 jigger Triple Sec
3 fingers amaretto almond liqueur
1/2 cup E.Z. Orchard cider
1/2 cup ice cubes
Shake ingredients in bartender's mixer quickly, just five shakes.
Strain out ice, serve in glass immediately with a slice of orange.
You should taste the orange, almond and apple all together. An
autumn drink. Serve it just a drop below room temp with an
almond or two instead of the orange slice. For a hot toddy, eliminate
ice, warm cider for thirty seconds.
Baked Apple Recipe
1 shot cinnamon schnapps
1 pint Wandering Aengus cider
Pour the liqueur into a glass, add the cider and serve cold.
Black Bird Cider Recipe
1 shot blackberry schnapps
1 pint Wandering Aengus cider
Add the Cider to the liqueur. Serve Cold.
Ciderific Recipe
6 ounces Wandering Aengus cider
1 ounce gold rum
1 cinnamon stick
Heat in a small saucepan and strain into a heat-proof glass
when hot. Add half a slice of lemon and serve.
Devon
1 ounce apple brandy
1/2 ounce gin
2 ounces E.Z. Orchards cider
1 teaspoon grenadine syrup
Pour ingredients into an old-fashioned glass half-filled with
broken ice. Garnish with a cherry and serve.
Diesel
1/2 pint lager
1/2 pint Oregon cider
1 dash black currant cordial
Pour the lager first then add the black currant cordial. Top
with the cider. The color should be very dark approaching the
color of a Guinness.
Thunder Quake Recipe
1 part cherry brandy
1 part Cognac
Fill with Oregon cider
In a Cognac glass, swill the Cognac around the glass then add
the cider and float the brandy over the top.
106 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011
Modified from British Traditions from Drinks Mixer

One Destination.
Hundreds of things to do.
Photo by: Rick Shafer
Photo by: Larry Andreasen
Photo by: Rick Shafer
Photo by: Rick Shafer
From bird-watching to zip-lining, there are hundreds of activities to do, places to see
and experiences to discover in Oregon’s Washington County.
Learn more or request a visitor guide:
www.visitwashingtoncountyoregon.com/fall
call 503/644-5555
or e-mail info@wcva.org
Visit Washington County, Oregon
@WCVA
WCVA_1859_Mag_1-2_Pg_Ad_FALL6.indd 1
8/17/11 11:43 AM

Isn’t it time
Play
to ?
Now
You can
Sneak Away
One night in our Patio
Suite, two movie tickets
and a $50 certificate to
Shibui Spa. Plus Nightly
wine reception and
complimentary
continental breakfast!
In Sisters, Oregon
866-974-5900
FivePineLodge.Com
$199 *
* starting at $199 beginning
October 1st
expires March 31st, 2012
Oregon’s newest four
diamond property

home grown
Oregon Living
by Lisa Glickman,
Home Grown Chef
photos by Carol Sternkopf
IS THERE ANYTHING IN A FRUIT BOWL more
accommodating than the apple? Fresh berries wait
for no one. Peaches and plums turn soft and mealy
in a few days. The greenest bananas will be covered
with brown spots within a week while the apple waits
patiently. Even when apples pass their optimal ripeness
and you put them in the crisper for just a few
more days, they can be used in a tart or made into
apple sauce. One of the apple's most overlooked incarnations
is as a cider, which can then be fermented
into hard cider.
Apple cider is made when apples are pulverized and
squeezed, creating an unfiltered liquid that is then
pasteurized. Apple cider tastes great cold from the
refrigerator or heated with sweet spices and orange
peel in a mug with a stick of cinnamon. Adults can
punch it up with some bourbon or brandy for a tasty
warm beverage.
Apple cider is also used in sauces, marinades and
chutneys for pork, chicken and turkey. It adds sweetness
and acidity to these meats whose mild flavors
come to life.
In this sweet and sour chicken dish, I use both apple
cider and Oregon hard cider. I made a few changes to
a traditional Jewish dish that embodies the spirit of
Rosh Hashanah with honey, apple and raisins. I like
to use boneless, skinless thighs because they have
more flavor, but you can substitute boneless breasts.
The chicken is lightly fried to give it color and then
finished in a tangy sauce with apple juice, lemon
zest, honey and a touch of cinnamon. I tighten up
the sauce with a bit of corn starch and garnish with
toasted slivered almonds for some added crunch.
Easy and delicious, this dish will please even the
most finicky eater. Serve with rice or a nutty wild rice
for a great week-day meal.
Tangy Chicken Thighs
(Serves 3-4)
6 to 8 boneless and skinless chicken thighs
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 cup slivered almonds
For the sauce:
1 cup Oregon hard apple cider
1 cup chicken stock
1/3 cup apple cider
Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup golden raisins
1 three-inch cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon corn starch mixed with 1/4 cup chicken stock
VIDEO
To watch the
Home Grown Chef
prepare this meal,
visit 1859magazine.com
Season the flour with salt and pepper. Flatten the chicken thighs gently and dredge in the flour. Shake
off excess flour. In a large skillet, heat the butter and oil over moderate heat until foam subsides.
Add the slivered almonds and cook until golden brown. Remove almonds with slotted spoon, drain
on paper towels and set aside. Add the chicken to the hot oil and cook over medium heat on each
side until golden brown. Remove chicken from pan and set aside. Pour out remaining oil leaving the
brown bits in the pan. To make the sauce, pour the Oregon hard cider into the pan and stir to remove
brown bits and intensify flavor, about three minutes. Add the stock, apple cider, lemon juice and zest,
honey, raisins and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil. Add chicken back to pan, cover and turn heat to
low. Allow chicken to finish cooking in sauce, about twenty minutes. Lift chicken from sauce and arrange
on platter. Bring sauce to a boil and add corn starch-chicken stock mixture a little bit at a time
to bring sauce to desired consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pour sauce over chicken and garnish
with almonds.
1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011 109

Oregon Living
design
Fusion
in Two Kitchen Remodels
Oddball combinations bring stunning results
by Edwin Ouellette
Traditional Country Farmhouse
Meets Modern Industrial Chateau
WHEN GREG AND LISA WAGGONER BEGAN PLANS to remodel their house, they
knew they wanted their home to be a harmonious blend between rustic country style and
industrial modern chic. Greg had worked for years as a graphic designer at a manufacturing
company, and Lisa had an interior design degree from Marylhurst University—relevant
backgrounds to make it happen. To bring their vision to life, the Waggoners teamed up with
architect Diane Foreman of Neil Kelly Architecture.
“Initially they had some trouble finding designers familiar with the look they wanted,”
says Foreman. Yet she could envision the two seemingly disparate styles coming together.
“We began collaborating. They’re very, very creative people,” she says. With the three designers
working together, the juices started flowing. Their crowning achievement would be the
kitchen redesign.
In this complete remodel, the kitchen was easily the most appealing, but challenging. “I
wanted something that expressed our personality and looked lived in,” says Lisa. It successfully
unites the two seemingly opposite styles: industrial and country. The traditional country
style takes the form of muted white cabinets, blue-grey walls and ceramic subway tiles.
The hand-scraped and distressed walnut flooring adds country flavor as well. Alternately, the
stainless steel appliances and bare hung lighting seep into a more industrial look. With a pop
of strawberry red inspired by an old Coca-Cola sign, the rolling countertop is an engaging
industrial element. For easy rearranging, the red countertop locks into place, yet is detachable.
Lisa’s artwork and her collection of antique cameras are displayed on shelves, adding an
eclectic flair to the industrial country hybrid.
The team went out of their way to recycle and reuse old materials while bringing in new
sustainable materials and services. “One thing that we did was to take a look at
the carbon footprint and use only local people,” Foreman notes.
The kitchen countertop, built by Ron Lucas of Platinum Forge, was made
out of masticated fly ash concrete and contained 40 percent consumer waste.
The trio of designers decided to paint and reuse the old kitchen cabinets in the
Between industrial and country
lies an ocean of difference—and
a stunning compromise.
photos by Neil Kelly Design
110 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

design
Oregon Living
1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011 111

Oregon Living
design
laundry room and in Greg’s “man-cave” workshop. They selected
energy-efficient windows and doors, and water-conserving facets
as well. “We wanted to keep it as green as possible and within our
budget,” says Lisa.
The final challenge was uniting the back deck with the kitchen.
During the summer, the Waggoners practically live out on their
deck, entertaining guests indoors and outdoors. In the existing layout,
though, the deck was on the other side of a kitchen wall, which
stemmed the flow of outdoor living. Walls sometimes make better
windows, especially those you can walk through. Three-panel
French sliding doors seamlessly bridged the kitchen and outdoor
dining. Barbequing is now easier along a twelve-foot galley countertop,
with an adjacent sink and prep area.
Ultimately the Waggoners are content with having pulled together
two conflicting design styles and extending their kitchen to
the outdoors. This finished remodel recently won a prestigious regional
award for sustainability from the National Association of the
Remodeling Industry.
LEFT A countertop of fly ash
with a second sink adds utility.
ABOVE Industrial lights meet
clean lines and spot red color in
a subtle blend.
112 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

No leak
skylight
10-year product
and installation
warranty*
*visit www.thenoleakskylight.com for complete information.
The No Leak Skylight
No Leak Promise • No Worries
3 layers of water protection.
Introducing a third layer of water protection. The pre-attached deck
seal on all deck mounted skylights provides a seal between the frame
and roof deck for a leak-proof installation.
Adhesive underlayment for secondary water protection against the
harshest weather conditions.
Engineered flashing for easy installation and primary water protection.
Where there is light, there is life.
Parr can help you bring the sunshine in with VELUX ® Skylights.
For over 80 years Parr Lumber has been supplying quality products, the best selection and competitive pricing. Whatever the
size of your project, we have the experience and expertise to help you finish on time and on budget.
We offer a wide range of VELUX deck, curb mounted, and electric venting skylights, as well as SUN TUNNEL skylights,
flashing kits, and accessories.
A Northwest family owned business since 1930.
22 convenient locations in Oregon and Washington
For directions visit www.parr.com or call 1.866.214.7277

Oregon Living
design
photos by Jared Cruce
Japanese Zen Meets Texas Swagger
SINCE 1990, BOB BURTON HAS WORKED AS AN ARTIST MANAGER and public relations agent for Hollywood
clients like Neil Patrick Harris of “How I Met Your Mother,” and Pat Sajak, host of “Wheel of Fortune.” In his
early days fresh from University of Texas, with a degree in marketing, he worked for several years in the real estate
and construction business.
In 2002, Burton, and his wife, Lenna, bought a 2,000-square-foot historic house in Ashland. Burton rented it
for nine years before he decided to do a complete remodel and move in. Since he already had experience in the
construction industry, he chose to serve as the general contractor for the job. “I knew exactly what I wanted,” says
Burton, so he strapped on his toolbelt, picked up a hammer, and got to work remodeling the residence, with the
help of designer Mike McKee and builder Scott Larson.
To start with, Burton completely gutted the house to the foundation walls and the rafters. While
removing interior walls, he found a stash of newspapers from the 1890s along with an antique, but
fully functioning, harmonica.
The Burtons sought to create the
look and feel of an upscale hotel
bar, meanwhile fusing Japanese
and Texan styles.
114 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

Oregon Living
design
Designing the house, Burton strove to keep the project sustainable and cost effective.
The original house had absolutely nothing sustainable about it, he notes.
“I’m a big supporter of green building,” says Burton, “It’s the responsible thing to do
if you’re building—to make as green a statement as possible.”
Burton looked to the City of Seattle for its sustainable building checklist. He, Larson
and McKee followed the guide closely. Burton bought local products and hired
local craftsmen. He also used a geothermal heat pump to warm and cool the house.
Geothermal heating uses the heat stored in the Earth’s crust to warm during winter,
then pumps cooler ground temperatures into the house during the summer. Burton
discovered that after federal tax credits, geothermal heating proved to be as costefficient
as traditional heating over the long run.
Burton also chose energy-efficient windows, Energy Star Electrolux appliances,
and low-voltage lighting. He installed a tankless gas water heater for efficient hot
water. On the job site, the team recycled all the old building materials that could
not be reused.
The kitchen remodel proved to be the highlight of the project. The kitchen style
is a blend of Japanese aesthetics and bold Texan. Elsewhere these conflicting styles
would be more confusion than fusion. In the kitchen, however, they play well together.
“This is the complexity of what he did,” says McKee. “It’s a very cool and
eclectic way of dealing with interior finishes.”
The cabinets, custom-built by Roelke Cabinets in neighboring Jacksonville, take
on a deep walnut veneer. A black Cambrian granite countertop, a curved island inlaid
with glass tiles is illuminated by pinpoint halogen lighting. Over the sink, a row
of windows overlook the beautiful Grizzly Peak in the Cascades. Burton and his
wife travel a lot, so they wanted a kitchen that reflected the same hotel-bar experience
they are comfortable with. “It’s my favorite part of the house—sitting at the bar,
eating or drinking, and all with a nice view,” observes Burton.
With Burton as the general contractor, the entire home remodel was accomplished
in a mere fourteen months. Burton, McKee and Larson are all pleased with
the results. McKee, the designer, was incredulous that a Texan could create a Japanese-inspired
remodel. “That’s not easy, and they pulled it off,” McKee says.
ABOVE Laid glass tiles beneath
a Cambrian granite countertop
helped define the high-end
hotel bar appeal. LEFT A view
of the Cascades outside and
the warmth of walnut-finished
cabinets inside.
116 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

changing the way you think
about cabinet organization
available locally at:
1019 SE 10th Ave
Portland, OR
1-800-452-0182
nbhco.com
available locally at:
1019 SE 10th Ave
Portland, OR
1-800-452-0182
nbhco.com

Oregon Living
design
118 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

ins 1859 half pg vert _ins 1859 half pg vert 6/7/11 1:40 PM Page 1
CHOWN_1859.pdf 1 9/8/11 1:11 AM
oregon’s best little getaway!
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
artsy
“just terrific!”
“distinctive”
“industrial chic”
what is the trendy-third fashion zone?
“simplydelightful!”
EVERYBODY
IS TALKING
ABOUT IT!
awesome!
retro hip
the streetcar rocks!
“the restaurants and boutiques are fabulous!”
super duper friendly!
...we’ll be back!
did theysay?... Come sleep with us!
way comfortable!
fun neighborhood!
“what a trip!”
“ I absolutely loved having a kitchen in my room!”
I expected to see the Jetson’s checking in!
“this place is too much!”
(i mean that in a good way)
the
INN
crowd
503 . 224 . 0543 800 . 224 . 1180 2025 nw northrup
join our guest loyalty program...for details visit our website!
northrupstation.com

photo: Photo: Kevin Winzeler
In store or online at
Central Oregon’s most
complete outdoor store ››
BY ALTREC.COM
320 320 SW SW Century Park, Bend, OR
SAGEBRUSH SAYS THANKS!
1859 MAGAZINE, AARON WARNER, ADVANCED SYSTEMS, ADVISORY TEAM, ALOHA PRODUCE,
AMERIGAS, AMERITEL, ATHLETIC CLUB OF BEND/SCANLON’S, AUDIO VISIONS PLUS, AUTOMOTIVE
PAINT SPECIALITIES, BANK OF THE CASCADES, BBT ARCHITECTS, BENDBROADBAND, BEND
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, BEND GARBAGE & RECYCLING, BEND HIGH CULINARY STUDENTS, BEND
HIGH FOOTBALL TEAM & COACHES, BEND-LAPINE SCHOOL DISTRICT, BEND RADIO GROUP, BEST
OF BEND, BIG COUNTRY RV, BLACK EYED PRODUCTIONS, BOB CHASE, BRIESS MALT &
INGREDIENTS CO., BRIGHTWOOD CORP., BONNETT PROPERTIES, BROKEN TOP COMMUNITY
ASSOCIATION, BROKEN TOP CLUB, CAMPBELL CONSULTING, CARLSON SIGN, CAROL FISH, CAROL
TOBEY, CASCADE PUBLICATIONS, CASCADE TRANSPORT, CASCADE VIEW INSPECTIONS,
CHRISTINA LARUE, COCC CULINARY STUDENTS, COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR, COMBINED
COMMUNICATIONS, CONSIDER THE FOX, CURTIS EQUIPMENT, DESCHUTES BREWERY PUB,
DESCHUTES BREWERY TASTING ROOM STAFF, EARTH2O, EBERHARD’S DAIRY PRODUCTS, EBMS,
EDIE JONES, EIGHT 18 PRODUCTIONS, ELEVATION TENTS, ERIK FRANK, EXPRESS PERSONNEL &
SECURITY, FIRE PROS, FOOD SERVICES OF AMERICA, FOOT ZONE, FRED MEYER, FRANCHOT TONE,
GARY FISH, GAYLE NAJERA, HEROES OF TELEMARK, HIGH DESERT GOLF CARS, HOPUNION, LLC,
HORIZON BROADCASTING GROUP, HSW BUILDERS, ICE FINE JEWELRY, INCREDIBLE EVENTS, J BAR
J, JEFF MELVILLE, JELD-WEN, JEN ORLANDO, JOSHCORDELL.COM, KELLY MEREDITH, KEN’S ICE, KEN
WRIGHT CELLARS, KRISTIN FISH AND THE FEAST CELEBRITY CHEFS, LES SCHWAB, LINDA BONES,
LITHIA MOTORS, MARATHON BUSINESS MACHINES, MATEA FISH, MARK HEGEDUS AND
DESCHUTES BREWERY MARKETING TEAM, MATT LEEDEN, MATT NELTNER, MCM FUND, MELISSA
TALBOTT, MICHAEL LALONDE AND DESCHUTES BREWERY ADMIN/FINANCE TEAM, MIKE COOPER
AND DESCHUTES BREWERY FOOD & BEVERAGE TEAM, MIKE’S FENCING, MILLER LUMBER, MISSION
LINEN, MOUNTAIN VIEW CULINARY STUDENTS, MOUNTAIN VIEW FOOTBALL TEAM & COACHES,
MT. BACHELOR, INC., MUFFINTOP RECORDS, NEWPORT MARKET, NEWS CHANNEL 21/FOX, NORTH,
NOSLER, O’BRIEN EVENTS, OCEAN BEAUTY SEAFOODS, OLD MILL DISTRICT, OREGON SCREEN
IMPRESSIONS, OXFORD HOTEL, PACIFIC SOURCE HEALTH PLANS, PAPA MURPHY’S, PEAK TRAVEL,
PEA POD GLASS, PEPSI OF BEND, PETER GALLIARD, PIZZA MONDO, PONDEROSA FORGE, PRESS
PROS, PREMIER PRINTING, R&H CONSTRUCTION, ROLL35, RYDER GRAPHICS, SAFEWAY,
SAGEBRUSH CLASSIC VOLUNTEERS, SAGEBRUSH COMMUNITY CHALLENGE VOLUNTEERS,
SAGEBRUSH FEAST VOLUNTEERS, SAGEBRUSH STREET FARE VOLUNTEERS, SAXCO, SILIPINT,
SODBUSTER FARMS, STARVIEW FOUNDATION, STEEL BLOOM FLOWERS, STREET FARE
CHEFS/LOCAL RESTAURANTS, STUDIO404PHOTOGRAPHY.COM, SUMMIT HIGH FOOTBALL TEAM &
COACHES, SUMMIT HIGH LACROSSE TEAM & COACHES, SUN COUNTRY TOURS, SUNWEST
BUILDERS, TETHEROW/CASCADE SOTHEBY’S, THE BULLETIN, THE SHOW, THE SOURCE WEEKLY,
TRUE NORTH PARENTING, UNITED RENTALS, WELLS FARGO, WHOLE FOODS
YOU NEVER KNOW...
What kind of incredible adventures are waiting out there for you!
For over 38 years Rogue Wilderness
Adventures has been the leader in
adventure travel on Oregon’s Rogue
River. Which really means, we have a
proven record of delivering smiles to
people’s faces!
Come and Join us on one of our Multi-
Day Whitewater rafting trips or Hiking
trips. Book your adventure now.
1.800.336.1647
rogue river • rafting • hiking
WE ARE A 100% OREGON COMPANY 325 Galice Road • Merlin, OR 97532 • www.WildRogue.com

Outdoors
The Steens
& Oregon
QBs >>
122 Adventure
Four days over
Steens Mountain
and into Frenchglen.
130
Athlete Profile
Ryan Katz and Darron Thomas
make predictions about
the football season.
Adventures
Fly-fishing along the
Little Blitzen River in The
Steens Wilderness.

Outdoors
adventures
Into the Steens
A four-day hike through a vast and verdant wilderness
in the middle of Oregon’s southeastern desert
by
KEVIN MAX
THE STEENS ARE NOT WHAT YOU THINK.
To most drivers-by, The Steens appear to be an endless medley of sagebrush and volcanic basalt set into a desert scalp of blonde grasses. If
you never set fool’s foot outside of your car, that description will play nicely.
Then there’s the subject-verb agreement problem with them, with it. Is it, “Steens Mountain is” or “The Steens are”? To not make them
plural after undertaking a late summer four-day trek up and across one of the most varied and beautiful settings, is grammatical heresy.
Like many things in the Pacific Northwest that take the name of a Hudson’s Bay Company fur trader or U.S. railroad or military attache, this mountain
takes the name of Enoch Steen. Steen was a lieutenant colonel of the United States Army 1st Dragoons. Chasing off of its ancestral residents of the
Paiute tribe earned Steen a mountain. Dragoons or not, the idea of a singular homogenized Steen breaks down the farther the foot-traveler gets into
this fifty-mile-long microSteens ecology.
One person who knows the plurality of the Steens better than most is Brent Fenty, the 37-year-old director of the Oregon Natural Desert Association,
or ONDA. Fenty has hiked in them, pulled fences in them, fished in them, camped in them and defended them against invasive species and corrosive
legislation. He’s also the reason I’m going into them and the only chance I have of coming out of them alive.
No one would argue that there was a lot of arm-twisting before I agreed to go. The sophisticated psychological tactics that Fenty deployed were likely
rehearsed before a team of experts across many disciplines before being distilled into this nugget of innocence: “Hey, I’m going to hike from Fields to
Frenchglen over Steens Mountain. Do you want to go?”
If all goes well, we will have taken photos, video and general inventory of a forty-mile segment of a proposed 700-mile Oregon Desert Trail that starts
in Bend and follows the shape of two udders through Plush and Fields before turning north into the Jordan Valley ending at Lake Owyhee State Park.
122 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

adventures
Outdoors
LEFT Brent Fenty pauses
for a moment to smell
the flowers after a rugged
descent into Little Blitzen
River Canyon.
BELOW The 40-mile route
through the desert. RIGHT
A proposed 700-mile desert
trail that stretches from
Bend to the Owyhee River
near the Idaho border.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 123

Outdoors
adventures
DAY ONE Into Wildhorse Canyon
Any excuse to sit down at Fields Station for a half-pound burger and
a one-liter shake is probably a good one. Find a new trainer/doctor if
they counsel to the contrary. If you’re working outside in 90 degree
heat, driving to Las Vegas or if you think this is your last meal, all are
equal atonement for the Fieldsburger. Still the lunch counter is too
close to the Alvord Desert, where our first ascent awaits.
The Alvord Desert, like Steens Mountain, is a misnomer. Naturalists
probably gave it the desert moniker to scare away others and keep it for
themselves. This desert is the kind that’s built around a big lake with
lots of water in it. To be fair, the lake is shallow and rests on top of an
enormous white sandbar, a tidepool that a prehistoric sea long ago forgot
to take back. When it’s a bone-dry year, the flat lake bed becomes a
playground for sailboats with wheels and for land speed records, such
as the one Kitty O’Neill laid down in 1976 at 512 miles an hour.
As you start the climb into the Steens, you can appreciate the twelvemile-long
runway, the water’s reflection of Pueblo Mountain and the
lunch you just ate. We loaded our packs with food and fly-rods and
when most hikers “set off for …,” my companion bolted like a snakebitten
colt up the eastern flank of the mountain. One minute later, I
was lagging and overheating, a trust we would honor for days to come.
Suddenly Fenty stopped and spun on his heels. “A leopard lizard!” A
six-inch spotted lizard disappeared into the underbrush. “You don’t see
them that often.”
We made quick work of a steep Jeep trail, caught our breath and
cut north to begin our first side-hill traverse. The terrain was a sea of
sagebrush with an undercurrent of chunky rocks. Below us, the Alvord
Desert became yet more beautiful yet no more desert-like in the distance.
Beneath us, our feet were stinging, smearing off the angles of
heated sauna rocks.
Packing lightly for the unknown is a challenge. Every potential item
has a consequence in its presence and in its omission. Weight and bulk
are the existential challenge. Leaving behind a package of feral bacon
can be devastating, too. Two nights before the trip, I had laid out the
essentials: a pair of trail shoes, a survival knife with flint, a water bladder,
a sleeping bag and biv sack, hiking poles, twelve bars dense with
protein, nuts, powdered Gatorade, a fly-rod, a pair of shorts, an extravagance
of three shirts including one cotton for the novelty, socks, sun
block, bug repellent and some other food.
The most essential gear when bushwhacking through the high desert
is your shoes. Must protect your feet at all costs. A critical part of that
defense are ankle desert gaiters. You may look like you’re the errant
member of a rural marching band who hit the desert and kept going,
but gaiters keep your shoes from filling with sediment. A few days before
the trip, Fenty told me to pick up some gaiters at REI, if I didn’t
already have them. I didn’t, so I did, though it sounded a bit dramatic
at the time. Deep into the first slog, they were holding up and preventing
frequent stops for shoe dumps.
ABOVE Fenty takes note of a cairn at the
top of Wildhorse Canyon.
OPPOSITE (CLOCKWISE) Bees were plentiful
but, with one exception, courteous.
Fenty surveys Wildhorse Canyon. Side-hill
hiking out of the Alvord Desert. Tatties-an
Irish desert delight. Wildhorse Creek drops
into lovely cascading pools.
Within the first few hours of hiking, we had jumped a leopard lizard,
and coveys of quail and chukar, an upland bird known for its ability to
make ordinary tacos extraordinary. As fast a pace as Fenty marched, he
tirelessly identified reptiles, birds and plants for my edification. Once,
when I thought he was striding so fast that his intent was to leave me
at the mercy of these reptiles, birds and plants, he suddenly stooped
over the black basalt and pulled a small stone from a narrow crack in
the terrain.
“An arrowhead!” he proclaimed. “It looks like someone’s worked it,”
he observed of its broken top and sped off.
It was better than 85 degrees, nearly 4:30 and we had gained our first
ridge of The Steens. From this lesser summit, we could look down into
Wildhorse Canyon, our next objective. Yonder, Fenty assured me, lay
the Wildhorse Creek with real water!
As daylight faded and as we dropped deeper into the canyon, the
ecology changed. At one point, as I stood catching my breath, I was surrounded
by deep wet greens of wild rose and cottonwoods. Wildhorse
Creek bubbled through dense underbrush. If I had been blindfolded
and led to this point by an ironic faction of eco-terrorists, I would have
sworn that they had taken me into the tropical Hawaiian Pools of Oheo.
In five and a half hours, we had found joyous water in the Wildhorse
Creek, flowing with such strength and through so much green that it
was oblivious to the fact that this was a dry ol’ desert. Steens Mountain
was inching toward plurality even as we pitched our sleeping bags, and
cooked two steaks and mashed potatoes over a propane flame.
124 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

adventures
Outdoors
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 125

Outdoors
adventures
126 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
CLOCKWISE Fenty unwinds aside the
glacial Wildhorse Lake. It’s a fine line
between success and defeat climbing
Wildhorse Creek. Because of its
steep access, the Wildhorse Lake is
an arduous destination. Even the
most leisurely swims last no more
than fifteen seconds. The purple
Steens Mountain Thistle is unique to
The Steens.

DAY TWO Into the Little Blitzen
adventures
Outdoors
I packed a few hours of sleep into the ten seconds my eyes were closed.
Breakfast was oatmeal with cranberries, hazelnuts and brown sugar. An
unspeakable delight that travels well with Advil.
We packed up and set off north up the creek. If there were no Enoch
Steen, the area’s Paiute name, Tse Tse-ede meaning “The Cold One,”
could have survived Manifest Destiny. From where we stood alongside
the Wildhorse Creek in Wildhorse Canyon, we longed for a cold one.
Day two would be the second-most challenging of our four-day excursion.
We climbed Wildhorse Creek, most of it before the sun overcame
the canyon. Near the top of this route, we could boot west over a
saddle and into Little Blitzen Canyon, or track north for the high alpine
Wildhorse Lake. Later, we traversed the ridge of Steens Mountain and
punched through The Cold One’s snowfield, down through a wilderness
water park and into the Little Blitzen Canyon. In day two, we would do
about 5,000 vertical feet.
The race Fenty was in didn’t seem to account for the challenge ahead,
pace without pacing. Pace, I always thought, implied restraint, as in
“Pace yourself, Kevin! There’s plenty more, if you eat that.” We pushed
through alder, willow, cottonwood, wild roses and currant at pace.
In the flower department, there was lupine, elephant’s head, mariposa
lilies, penstemon, paintbrush, wild onions, aster, gentian and, Fenty
spasmed, “Monkshood!” a beautiful purple flower shaped like a helmet
of a Roman soldier. Like all things inside or outside of wilderness, the
more beautiful, the more lethal. If this flower would have grazed our
bushwhacked shins in the wrong way and found its way into our bushwhacked
legs and up to our bushwhacked hearts, it could have reduced
our blistering progress to permanent stasis.
Up we went, though, following the creek’s spectacular waterfalls and
through wildflower beds galore. At noon, we popped over a ridge and
encountered Wildhorse Lake. At nearly 8,400 feet and 90 degrees in the
middle of August, patches of snow still clung to its banks, as if trucked in
as part of a massive public works project. With dimensions of 1,200 feet
long by 800 feet wide, Wildhorse Lake stood out like a big ol’ aqueous
oddity in a tub made of porous basalt.
Two flower-mongers in their sixties had hiked down the steep trail
from the Steens Mountain Loop and lingered along the rim of the lake.
They must have been as impressed with this oasis as we were, for their
hike back up to the rim and parking lot would be a steep one.
We honed in on a sandy beach, stripped to the bug-bitten, bushwhacken
flesh and jumped into the glacial waters. Ten seconds go by
slowly when you’re bathing in ice water.
Dropping into the Little Blitzen Canyon is perhaps the most challenging
counterpoint to the argument of this assertion of desert. The
Steens Mountain snowfield rolls over its rim and dissolves into a million
rivulets with tropical cabbages that double as solid footholds on steep
descents. At the base is a field of flowers that rivals any I’ve seen on the
wetter side of the Cascades.
Farther along down the Little Blitzen, just below a falls and a pool,
we dropped our packs, took out our fly-rods and cast into the shadows.
Preparation is everything. The day before the trip, I had walked into
a fly-fishing outfitter, laid my rod and reel on the counter and asked a
young store clerk how not to embarrass myself while deploying these. I
quickly learned which end was for fishing and which was for reeling. The
coordination part would have to be banged out in practice.
Within the first few casts into the Little Blitzen, I had caught my first
victim—a 20-pound redside rosebush on a new grasshopper fly. My
well-angled companion caught and released two Redband trout not big
enough for our appetites.
That night, Fenty pulled from his pack two welcome guests: bacon and
whiskey. His flask reminded me that I had forgotten mine. The lovely
liquidation made it easier to forget that I had forgotten long pants and
that the brittle underbrush had carved a Jackson Pollock into my legs.
Bacon is a salve that, taken orally, is known to alleviate symptoms
from bug bites to bubonic plague. Torn to pieces and folded into mac n
cheese, it made for a filling end to an arduous day.
We didn’t know that the toughest leg of the trip lay in ambush just
over night’s dark horizon.
DAY THREE Into the Blitzen
On this day, the sun rose early and furnaced itself to 90-some degrees
by the time it hit the unshaded stretch of the Blitzen Crossing. This
stretch was a fifteen-mile stomp along a so-called Jeep trail. After it was
done, we’d plod more than eight hours through scorching heat to reach
mother Blitzen, a body that collects most of the other bodies of water
across several drainages in The Steens.
Early morning, the dark cool pools along the Little Blitzen were too
fish-able to get an early start. My right hand and left leg began to swell
from something that got into my sleeping bag that night. We had five
tablets of benedryl, so I ate two.
As we trekked through the remaining thick bushes and trees along the
Little Blitzen, Fenty again led out the attack. By now, I had realized that
he was faster than me on the ascents, the descents, the flats, on side hills
and pretty much any angle Earth and gravity would support.
Because of the rattlesnakes known to inhabit any of the thousands of
bushes we were kicking into, I told him that I was happy with this pecking
order. “Rattlers never bite the first one through,” he threw back at me.
“It’s the second one that annoys them.”
Just before leaving the river canyon, Fenty’s hand shot up and slapped
his right eye so loudly that his scream seemed of secondary import in
his defense. Bees apparently don’t wait for the second hiker. A giant bee
had just stung him in the right eyelid. It puffed out within seconds and
we were now down to one benedryl tablet for the next day and a half.
Even with an eye and a half, Fenty seemed no slower as we strode
into the hottest stretch of the trip. For our next trick, we had to cover
ten miles of a rock-strewn Jeep trail to get to the Blitzen River in Cold
Springs Canyon.
No Jeep ever built could have made it more than a mile on this trail
without a mechanical concussion. The trail was overgrown with blonde
hay and rocked with boulders. The rough provided no relief to the trail.
We relied continually on our hiking poles for balance as our feet skidded
this way and that over the side of rocks.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 127

Outdoors
adventures
DAY THREE (continued)
After a few hours, we pulled up for food in a small side canyon. I
looked at my hand and my leg but said nothing about how large they
had grown. For a while, it seemed the anti-inflammatory was getting
the upper hand. Now the leg and the hand were gaining the upper hand.
Fenty’s eyes followed mine.
“It’s about two and a half miles to the Steens Mountain Loop if we
walk directly that way,” he said pointing west. “We can get out of here if
we need to.”
I checked the temperature of both swollen areas and then my forehead
for a fever caused by infection. Everything was hot, but only so hot
as the day itself.
“I’m all in,” I said. “Let’s keep going.” Bravado starts and ends with binding
phrases like these that you feel silly taking back later. So we went.
Fenty checked his GPS and said that we had only about five more
miles to go. At our pace in this terrain, that meant a little more than two
hours. We were conserving dwindling water supplies and eating along
the way. For the first time this trip, I dumped Gatorade powder into my
water, almost enough to caulk tile then cursed my wife for buying and
packing the healthier less sugary G2.
According to the GPS gods, a couple miles ahead we would cross an
“intermittent creek.” We shouldered our bags and melted back into the
heat. Given the amount of snow we had this winter and the amount of
water cascading down the Wildhorse and Little Blitzen canyons just a
couple of drainages over, this creek was bound to be more mittent than
the less fequent inter.
We plodded on quietly determined to make it to the mittent creek,
controlling our energy levels and conserving our last sloshes of water.
Ahead, at a treeline that denoted a creek, Fenty had stopped and was
looking down. The creek! Merciful mittent creek!
“There’s not enough here.” Fenty was frowning at a series of small
muddy puddles that came from the slope above him. We’d have to push
on. Intermittently.
One foot in front of the other we went. Now we were in wilderness
and just needed the next rivulet, the next creek, any trickle where we
could pool the water then pump it into our bodies through a filtering
device. We pushed on with the relentlessness of junkies in search of a
fix, our water bottles boiling in the heat.
After five hours, the terrain began to soften and deepen. There were
trees, and down a steep embankment lay the mighty Blitzen. Water! We
took off our shoes and dipped our swollen feet in the river, got in it with
clothes still on, and lay in it and filled our water bottles with it. Tomorrow
would be a ceremonial hike to the finish line at Page Springs.
Dinner couldn’t come soon enough at our campsite along the Blitzen.
Lasagna with meat. It’s amazing what boiling water can partially reconstitute
in the wilderness.
I saved all of my sleeping for one night and this was it. There was a
light breeze, the lullaby of the river and no menacing black flies nor
mosquitos in the area. By 8:00, I was in a wilderness of sleep.
LEFT Take grasshoppers
when fishing in the
Little Blitzen. RIGHT In
camp along the Little
Blitzen. OPPOSITE The
last river crossing at the
Blitzen and into Page
Springs Campground.
128 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

adventures
Outdoors
DAY FOUR Out of The Steens
Our spirits lifted knowing this was a short scramble across two rivers
to Page Springs. The prior day had taken its toll on Fenty’s feet. He
taped everything he could, and we de-camped. At least on that final day,
I thought, I’d be able to keep pace with the debilitated version of him. Of
course, he found that his wounds actually felt less worse if he quickened
his pace to a jog. Oh joy.
Out of Cold Springs Canyon, across the Blitzen and out of the Steens
we came … at a jog. Four days and forty miles from the Alvord Desert
to outside of Frenchglen, we had ticked off an incredibly beautiful section
of the proposed 700-mile Oregon Desert Trail. Though day three
was classic desert, much of our desert trip was spent in some version of
the tropics without humidity, surrounded by cascading water and too
many flowers to name. The Steens were many, not one . They were not
what I’d thought they’d be after driving past them en route to Las Vegas.
My dad often calls from his airy in Vermont with story ideas gleaned
from books he’s read, Vermont Public Radio or his own contrivance.
These ideas take the form of vast generalities that need only a little bit
of work to Oregon-ize them for the magazine. “Do a piece on trappers,”
he has blurted. “Do a thing on fire,” he’s demanded. “What about shepherds?
Are there any shepherds left?” If the roles were reversed and I
were the retired professor with gads of time and peaty scotch, I might
call him and say, “You got mountains there, right? They run right down
the middle of the damned state! Has anyone written anything about
that? Smack down the middle of the state!”
One day a year ago, though, he was onto something and it couldn’t
wait. Hello? “Yeah, I was just looking at a map.” Uh-huh. “Well, the
southeastern part of the state looks to be a complete shite-hole. Get
down there and check it out.”
Easier Recreation
in The Steens Mountain Area
Birding and Wild Horses
Malheur National Wildlife Refuge bird viewing area
Take Hwy. 205 south to Narrows-Princeton Road. Follow the
gravel road tour route from Malheur Station to Frenchglen.
Kiger Mustang Wild Horse viewing area
Turn right on the Kiger Wild Horse Viewing Area three miles past
Diamond, Oregon.
Hiking and Fishing
• Hike down to Wildhorse Lake to fish or swim from the trail
head at the Steens Loop Road. The trail is steep and not recommended
for small children. Extend that hike by popping over
the southern ridge and following the Wildhorse Creek down
into a canyon of wildflowers.
• From the Alvord Desert trailhead, hike out and back on a gravel
road and on to the summit for beautiful views of the Alvord Lake
and Wild Horse Canyon.
• Hike and fish along the Blitzen River from Page Springs Campground
trailhead.
• See the Kiger Gorge Overlook for geology buffs.
Hot Springs
• Alvord Hot Springs, twelve miles north of Fields on Hwy. 78
• Mickey Hot Springs, twenty miles north of Fields, then a twomile
hike east. Most of these are too hot for soaking.
1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011 129

athlete profile
Local Habit
Name
Ryan Katz
Hometown
Santa Monica, CA
Height 6’4”
Weight 214
Year
Junior
2010 Passing Yards 2,386
Touchdowns 18
Interceptions 11

Oregon Living
oregon postcard
Pendleton
Saddle Up in Pendleton
Trini Hank shot this while in the shop of custom saddle-maker Hamley & Co. in Pendleton.
Oregon Postcard
Send us your
Oregon Postcard
and win an 1859 T-shirt
Go to 1859magazine.com
to submit your Oregon photo.
The winning photo will also be
displayed in the next issue of 1859.
132 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Explore Guide
shopping • events • hotels • restaurants • getaways • boutiques
5TH ANNUAL FOOD & WINE CLASSIC,
November 4 —6 , Ashland, Oregon
The 5th annual Food & Wine Classic celebrates Ashland’s
amazing restaurants, talented chefs and Oregon’s bounty,
Southern Oregon style. The event kicks off on Friday, November
4 with a Meet the Chefs party and the Downtown
Wine Crawl. Join us as Chandra Corwin of Cucina Biazzi,
Ashland’s 2010 Top Chef, defends her title against seven
others in the Chef Showdown Saturday and Sunday starting
at noon. Sample more than thirty vendors and experience
wine, farm and food workshops. Enjoy Oregon
Shakespeare Festival’s closing weekend by seeing a play. To
purchase tickets, visit ashlandchamber.com.
For tickets and event info:
www.ashlandchamber.com
Events &
Getaways for
Autumn >>
134 / Portland
Spas, sushi and luxury
accommodations
135 / Southern Oregon
Cool digs and great wine
136 / Willamette Valley
World-class wine and
stately lodging
137 / Eastern Oregon
Cozy cabins, hot springs and
endless charm
137 / Mt. Hood
Cabins, burgers, beer
and ski gear
138 / Hood River
Lodging, riverview spas and
fine dining
139 / Oregon Coast
Ocean views, shopping
and seaside spas
140 / Central Oregon
High desert lodging and
comfort food
142 / Eugene
Craft beer, art and history
photo by Andy Watson Photo / bullstockmedia.
by Graham Lewis
more online
Looking for sushi in Seaside? Peruvian
cuisine in Portland? Theater in
Ashland? A vacation home in Bend?
Our online guides cover all that Oregon
has to offer. Get your venue or event
noticed in 1859's Explore Guide.
www.1859magazine.com

portland
LUCIA FINE JEWELERS
Welcome to Lucia Fine Jewelers,
a family-owned business
proud to bring you an amazing
selection of diamonds,
colored gem stones, pearls
and unique timepieces to fit
any budget. The store features
many jewelry brands
including Paula Crevoshay, Adami & Martucci, Rebecca, and Pandora. Exceptional
watch lines including Carl F. Bucherer, Ulysse Nardin and Frederique Constant
can be found as well. Lucia Fine Jewelers offers the Northwest’s most distinguished
collection of fine jewelry, watches, gifts, and one of a kind artifacts
and crystals from around the world.
503.684.4400 7387 SW Bridgeport Rd, Tigard luciafinejewelers.com
134 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011
KANANI PEARL SPA
Inspired by Hawaiian traditions of natural
healing, Kanani Pearl Spa offers a return to
the scents of the islands with papaya–pineapple
body polish, Island espresso mud
wrap and ginger lime lomilomi massage.
Kanani specializes in corrective and healthy
aging facials from Epicuren, Naturopathica
and IS Clinical, as well as premier waxing
services. Endermologie by LPG offers
detoxification and cellulite management.
Kanani boutique spa integrates therapy
and relaxation. Come let the waterfalls of Kanani Pearl return you to your island dreams.
503.242.5500 1111 NW Marshall Street, Portland kananipearl.com
HOTEL VINTAGE PLAZA
The Hotel Vintage Plaza, on SW
Broadway, is in the heart of
downtown Portland. A vineyardinspired
ambience and richly
appointed accommodations provide
the ideal wine-country atmosphere
for a visit to the City
of Roses. The pet-friendly,
boutique hotel pays tribute to
the surrounding Oregon wine
country by dedicating the guest
rooms to local wineries and
vineyards. In addition to standard
rooms, the hotel features
a variety of exclusive suites and
specialty rooms. Guests leave feeling the warmth of a vintage
estate in Tuscany. Come visit Portland's only wine–themed hotel.
800.243.0555 422 SW Broadway, Portland vintageplaza.com
OBA! RESTAURANT
OBA!, literally translated is a
resounding “YEAH”, an expression
from that oh-so-sensual
language, Portuguese. Part
South American marketplace,
Mexican Hacienda, and Cuban
sizzle, OBA! Restaurante mirrors
this exuberance. Vibrant color,
dancing light, spicy undertones
and the rich history of longheld
family traditions serve as a
framework for a truly transformational dining experience. Chef Neuman refines the best of all that
is Latin, using only fresh authentic ingredients, and transforms it into a textured dining experience.
!
!
!
503.228.6161 555 N.W. 12 Ave., Portland obarestaurant.com
MIO SUSHI
A long-time Portland favorite
among fans of healthy and delicious
Japanese food, Mio Sushi
has been dishing up ultra-fresh
sushi, classic and fusion sushi
rolls, complemented by a wide
range of traditional entrees such
as bentos, teriyaki and noodles
in a casual, family-friendly atmosphere.
Mio's unique baked sushi specials—such as Sonny’s Specials and Sushizza
(Mio Sushi’s interpretation of pizza)—are a must-try. Visit online for Mio
Sushi’s hours and locations in Portland, Eugene, Bend and Vancouver, Washington.
For convenient locations and hours, visit us at miosushi.com
HOPWORKS URBAN BREWERY
& HOPWORKS BIKEBAR
Hopworks Urban Brewery and
Hopworks BikeBar are Portland’s
first eco-brewpubs.
Each pub offers handcrafted
organic beers and a menu featuring
fresh, local ingredients,
all served in sustainably-built
and operated buildings with a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Hopworks’
20-barrel brewery produces 8,500 barrels of beer a year for their brewpubs
and distribution in Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia.
503.287.MALT 3947 N. Williams Ave. Bike bar
503.232.HOPS 2944 SE Powell Blvd. hopworksbeer.com
MALOY'S JEWELRY WORKSHOP
Maloy's Jewelry Workshop has
been a downtown tradition for
twenty–five years. A glittering
jewel box brimming with treasures
from the most beautiful
periods of jewelry design. Everything
from Edwardian engagement
rings to Art Nouveau pendants,
Victorian lockets to Art
Deco earrings. Maloy's also has a
full staff of designers and bench
jewelers on site waiting to help you review, renew and restore your
current pieces. Discover an heirloom at Maloy's Jewelry Workshop.
503.223.4720 717 SW 10th Ave., Portland maloys.com

SOUTHERN OREGON
ROGUE REGENCY INN
Enjoy the warm, casual elegance
of Rogue Regency Inn &
Suites with 203 guest rooms including
two-room suites. With
superior hospitality, the Inn
offers finely appointed rooms
with first–class amenities, including
wi-fi, microwave, minifridge
and bar sink. Enjoy an indoor pool, spa, state-of-the-art fitness center, hair and nail
salon and massage therapist. The full–service Regency Grill offers exceptional cuisine for
breakfast, lunch and dinner, including a $4.99 made-to-order breakfast. Chadwicks Pub
and Sports Bar features fourteen TVs (ten are big screens in HD), premium DirectTV sports
packages and live comedians Friday and Saturday. Free twenty-four-hour airport shuttle.
800.535.5805 2300 Biddle Rd., Medford rogueregency.com
DEL RIO VINEYARDS
Located along the Rogue River, Del Rio
Vineyards, once home to the Rock Point
Hotel, provides a warm and welcoming
atmosphere while sipping premium
estate wines. The Del Rio Vineyards
tasting room includes a great outdoor
location for a family picnic with a wonderful
view of its 200-acre vineyard.
Open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to
5 p.m. The vineyard is right off I-5 exit
43. Come see the new tasting room and
grounds–perfect for a picnic.
541.855.2062 52 N. River Road, Gold Hill delriovineyards.com
ROE OUTFITTERS
What can you do in a day
that makes you feel productive,
powerful and fulfilled?
You could work. Or you could
go fishing. Wait, strike that.
Go catching. Fly–fish for big
native redband rainbows and
wild steelhead on the Williamson,
Rogue and Klamath
rivers. Don't know how? ROE
will teach you. That's what
they do best.
541.884.3825 9349 Hwy 97, Klamath Falls roeoutfitters.com
STEAMBOAT INN
Located along the North
Umpqua, one of Oregon’s
most stunning rivers, Steamboat
Inn is the perfect place to
end your day. Enjoy a myriad
of outdoor activities ranging
from fall colors, wildflowers
and waterfalls, visiting Crater
Lake National Park, fly-fishing
for steelhead or just sitting on
the deck reading and watching the river flow by. The Inn is also known for its
cuisine, and acclaimed guest chef and winemaker dinner program.
800.840.8825 42705 N. Umpqua Hwy, Idleyld Park thesteamboatinn.com
ASHLAND CHAMBER
VISITOR & CONVENTION
BUREAU
The Ashland Chamber
invites you to enjoy the
Ashland Experience —culinary,
cultural and outdoor
adventures await
you. Fall is a perfect time
to visit Ashland and enjoy
the colors of the season
and world-class amenities
in a small town package.
Your visitor and community resource, ashlandchamber.com
541.482.3486 110 E. Main St., Ashland ashlandchamber.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson, 541.550.7081, ross@1859magazine.com
APPLEGATE VALLEY
VINTNER'S ASSOCIATION
The Applegate Valley is for
wine lovers—fifteen wineries
strung along thirteen
miles of Oregon designated
scenic drives. From Merlot,
Syrah and Viognier to
Riesling, Tempranillo and
Zinfandel, you can be sure
to find that special wine
to please your palate—
many available only at the
wineries. Take home those
favorites and relive your
experience every opening.
Make a special effort to
come for the annual Fall
Uncorked Event—Sunday,
the 20th of November —
when all the wineries open
their doors for barrel tasting.
Find event details,
costs and information
about each Winetrail winery
on Applegate Valley's
website.
applegatewinetrail.com
1859 oregon’s magazine AUTUMN 2011 135

willamette valley
WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINES
Join Willamette Valley Wines this Fall for an unforgettable wine tasting
experience in the Willamette Valley. Known for its world class Pinot noir,
the Willamette Valley is home to more than 180 wineries and tasting
rooms surrounded by beautiful vistas of the Cascade Mountains. Explore
quiet backcountry roads leading to a rustic barnyard tasting room or a
state-of-the-art winery. Taste special releases with winemakers or tour
vineyards amidst the beautiful backdrop of fall colors and excitement of
harvest. Visit our website to request a touring map and guide.
DON’T MISS WINE COUNTRY THANKSGIVING NOVEMBER 25-27, 2011.
THE GRAND HOTEL AND
BENTLEY'S GRILL
Welcome to The Grand Hotel and
Bentley's Grill, Salem’s premier
hotel and fine dining restaurant,
bar and lounge, with an elegant
downtown atmosphere. Featuring
193 beautifully appointed
sleeping rooms, The Grand offers
every visitor comfortable elegance.
Enjoy all that downtown
Salem has to offer by staying right
in the heart of it all. Complimentary
underground parking, hot
breakfast buffet, high speed wireless
internet, indoor pool and spa
and much more await your arrival.
The menu at Bentley’s Grill
features Northwest ingredients
with items that include fresh seasonal
seafood, artfully presented
salads, choice steaks, brick oven
artisan pizzas and rotisserie tender
chicken. Enjoy more than 200
varieties of wine, 100 of them local
Oregon wines. Bentley's service
is outstanding, with clientele
ranging from professionals to
families with children.
503.540.7800 The Grand Hotel grandhotelsalem.com
503.779.1660 Bentley's 201 Liberty Street, Salem bentleysgrill.com
DOMAINE SERENE
One of the most prestigious
wineries in the world
isn't in Napa or Sonoma.
It's here in Oregon. With
more than 100 wines rated
90 points or greater by
Wine Spectator magazine,
Domaine Serene has something
for everyone. Stop in,
enjoy the view, have a sip
and experience the Domaine Serene difference. The tasting room is
open Wednesday to Monday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The tasting fee is $15.
503.864.4600 6555 NE Hilltop Lane, Dayton domaineserene.com
ADELSHEIM
Established in 1971, the
family-owned and operated
winery and estate
vineyards is located
in Oregon’s northern
Willamette Valley.
Adelsheim welcomes
visitors to sample a selection
of its current releases
in its new tasting
room overlooking our Calkins Lane Vineyard. Patio seating is available for those who buy a
bottle of wine to enjoy a leisurely afternoon in wine country. Open seven days 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
503.538.3652 16800 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg adelsheim. com
DOMAINE TROUVÈRE
After twenty-five years in the Oregon wine business, the Lange Family has learned that patience is
rewarded. As experienced winemakers, they use Old World methods to handcraft wines from some of
Oregon’s finest and oldest vineyards. Try their Tempranillo, Syrah, Pinot noir, Chardonnay and their very
own Indigene. All of their Domaine Trouvère wines have a story to tell. Visit and taste the newest line
of finely-crafted wines.
Tasting Room now open noon - 5pm Wednesday - Sunday
Located right above The Red Hills Market
503.487.6370 115 SW 7th Street, Dundee domainetrouvere.com
136 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

Eastern Oregon
WALLOWA COUNTY CHAMBER
Plan your escape! There isn’t a more
beautiful fall-winter paradise than
the pristine Wallowa Mountains. The
Eagle Cap Wilderness of the Wallowas
is a limitless playground to explore,
hike, fish —then relax to a crackling
cabin fire. As the fall chill turns the
Tamaracks yellow and the first winter
snow powder arrives, escape to
Joseph, Oregon, in the heart of Hell's
Canyon Scenic Byway. Ride the Wallowa Lake Tram until Oct. 2nd. The Eagle Cap
Extreme Sled Dog Race, January 25-28 2012
800.585.4121 wallowacountychamber.com
SUMMER LAKE HOT SPRINGS
Summer Lake Hot Springs is located
in the Oregon Outback, two
hours southeast of Bend on Hwy.
31. Natural hot mineral springs
flow into outdoor rock pools and
into the historic bath-house at
113 degrees. High desert activities
include wildlife viewing, hiking,
mountain bike riding, fly-fishing and big skies for star gazing. Accommodations
include cozy geothermal heated cabins, a guest house, RV sites
and camping. Come heal your body and soul at Summer Lake.
541.943.3931 Milepost 92, Hwy 31, Paisley summerlakehotsprings.com
BRONZE ANTLER BED &
BREAKFAST
The Bronze Antler is an American-style
bed & breakfast with
European influence. Our 1925
Craftsman Bungalow was originally
home to one of Joseph's
sawmill supervisors. The warm
patina of original woodwork,
copper-plated hardware, and periodinspired
hand-painted stencils
accents all rooms.
541.432.0230 309 South Main, Joseph bronzeantler.com
EASTERN OREGON
VISITORS ASSOCIATION
Eastern Oregon is a land of superlatives.
From the deepest river gorge
in North America, Hells Canyon,
to the mighty Columbia River of
which legends and lore alike have
been recorded since ancient times,
to the land before time in the John
Day Fossil Beds. This is a place that surprises, affects and changes you. Come visit,
but just don't tell everyone! Contact us for a printed guide to Eastern Oregon.
800.322.1843 Eastern Oregon eova.com
mt. hood
ICE AXE GRILL
Conveniently located just off Hwy.
26 at the west end of Government
Camp on the south slope of Mt.
Hood, the Ice Axe Grill menu offers
a wide selection of freshly prepared
entrees, seafood, sandwiches, salads
and signature pizzas. On your next
mountain adventure, stop in and enjoy
the family-friendly, casual ambience
of the Ice Axe Grill and the Mt.
Hood Brewing Company's premium
handcrafted ales.
503.272.3172 87304 Government Camp Lp., Government Camp iceaxegrill.com
MT. HOOD CABINS
FOR ALL SEASONS
Your winter wonderland is just an hour
from PDX. Mt. Hood Cabins for All Seasons
offers everything from cozy vintage cabins
to sleek, spacious ski lodges in the youthful
heart of Government Camp. Hot tubs, saunas,
fireplaces and glistening snowscapes
make our vacation homes the ideal setting
for your winter holiday. Come experience
a pristine Mt. Hood snowfall or a dazzling
bluebird day on the hill, then enjoy an
amenity-filled mountain retreat. Discount
lift tickets for our guests.
503.622.1142 23804 E. Greenwood Ave., Welches mthoodrent.com
SKYWAY BAR AND GRILL
Zigzag's cozy and artful Skyway
Bar and Grill is one of Oregon's
hidden secrets. Mouthwatering
recipes of real American barbecue
weave into a top-notch
menu. Known as a premier live
music venue, it's open at 3 p.m.
Thursdays through Sundays. Just
twelve miles downhill of Government
Camp's snowy playground,
this restored landmark building is located in Zigzag on East Highway 26 at
milepost 43. The Skyway has an easily identified salmon-colored chimney.
503.622.3775 71545 Hwy 26, M.P. 43, Zig Zag skywaybarandgrill.com
VALIAN'S SKI SHOP
The good stuff since 1968.
Located in the Government
Camp Financial District. Specialty
tuning and repairs. Race
equipment, armor, protection,
gloves and waxes. Ski and
snowboard clothing, sweaters,
resort wear and accessories.
Large assortment of goggles,
gloves, hats ... anything
for fun in the snow. Equipment
sales, demo, rental. Alpine, snowboard, XC, snow shoes. Open every day,
including major holidays. Rossignol, Full Tilt, HESTRA, POC.
503.272.3525 HWY 26 Business Loop, Government Camp valiansskishop.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson, 541.550.7081, ross@1859magazine.com
1859 oregon’s magazine AUTUMN 2011 137

hood River
HOOD RIVER HOTEL
Tap the heart of the
Gorge. Lovingly restored,
the 100-yearold
hotel delivers New
World amenities with
Old World charm. Inside
and out, the pulse
of Hood River begins
here. Walk to five
wine-tasting rooms. Shop artisan jewelers, high fashion and fine
art. Savor craft beer and dining delights. Choose your toy for kiting,
sailing, fishing, biking or floating. Ride the rails. Stroll to a
river. Tour an orchard, waterfall or volcanic peak—starting here.
800.386.1859 102 Oak Ave., Hood River hoodriverhotel.com
CELILO RESTAURANT
Located in the heart of downtown Hood
River, Celilo offers Pacific Northwest cuisine
with fresh, locally grown products. The dining
room is a perfect blend of sophistication
and comfort, featuring work by local artists
and craftsmen. The menu is complemented
with an extensive wine list and full bar. Join
Celilo for daily happy hour specials, and
check its website for special wine dinners
and cooking class events. Open for lunch
(11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and dinner (from 5
p.m.) seven days a week, year-round.
541.386.5710 16 Oak Street, Hood River celilorestaurant.com
DOUBLE MOUNTAIN
BREWERY & TAPROOM
Hood River’s favorite destination for
top-quality craft beer, beautiful brickoven
pizzas and a relaxed, welcoming
local vibe. Sidewalk seating is
available in the warmer months.
Free live music every weekend. The
Taproom is located at 8 Fourth Street
in downtown Hood River, right
behind the post office. Open at 11:30
a.m. seven days a week.
KAZE
Traditional Japanese Cuisine
Dine with Kaze and experience
the whirlwind of Kaze flavors.
Kaze serves traditional Japanese
cuisine and sushsi that
will make your mouth water.
Authentic dishes include
tempura, udon noodles, rice
bowls, curry, bento boxes, set
meals as well as exotic desserts. Serving wine, sake and Japanese beers
like Kirin and Sapporo, Asahi and Morimoto ales. Enjoy views from the
indoor/outdoor deck or sit at the sushi bar. Kids menu available. Open
Tuesday-Sunday at 5 p.m.
541.387.0434 212 4th Street, Hood River
BEST WESTERN PLUS
HOOD RIVER INN AND
RIVERSIDE
The Hood River Inn is the perfect
base for all the area offers
in recreation, culture and smalltown
charm. You’ll see why the
area is a national scenic treasure.
Enjoy hiking, biking, golf, water
sports, touring and wine tasting
in the Mt. Hood/Columbia Gorge
region. Situated on the Columbia
River shoreline, the Hood
River Inn offers a walking path,
private beach, plus a newly constructed
riverfront pool and fitness
amenities. Diners seek Riverside
for some of the best food
in the Gorge – enjoyed outdoors
or indoors—and Cebu Lounge’s
amazing happy hours. Riverside
Suites offer one- to three-bedroom
deluxe accommodations.
Enjoy full-service hospitality
that’s within your budget.
541.387.0042 8 Fourth Street, Hood River doublemountainbrewery.com
NAKED WINERY
Naked Winery is on a mission to
change the conversation, please
the palate and enhance the romantic
experience around wine.
Jump-start your evening with a
bottle of Foreplay Chardonnay
and see where your evening
takes you, or perhaps a quiet
afternoon with Fling Gewürztraminer
and your new BFF. You’re
invited to get Naked daily in our
tasting room in downtown Hood River, Oregon. Fine wine, cold beer, comfy couches, good
friends and live music Monday, Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday evenings.
800.666.9303 102 2nd Street, Hood River nakedwinery.com
800.828.7873 1108 E. Marina Way, Hood River hoodriverinn.com
BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS,
RESORT AND SPA
Relax. Refresh. Refill at the
only destination resort and
spa in the Columbia River
Gorge. Indulge in a firstclass
resort and spa with
seventy-eight rooms and
suites–many with private
full-size hot tubs. Relax in
natural mineral hot springs
and pamper yourself with
more than forty options for massages and body treatments–
all just thirty-five miles from Portland and Vancouver.
888.903.4958 1252 East Cascade Drive, Bonneville, WA. bonnevilleresort.com
138 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

the coast
DEPOE BAY
The world's smallest
harbor brings you a
spectacular view from
the bridge or seawall
of Gray whales, fishing
boats and sunsets that
you will remember. You
might even catch the
elusive "green flash."
Discover lodging to fit
your budget, meals to
please all ages, works of art, collectibles, candy, souvenirs and gifts to remind
you of your spectacular time in the little town with the huge spirit.
877.485.8348 Depoe Bay depoebaychamber.org
THE BAY HOUSE
Discover The Bay House again. Since 1978,
The Bay House has endeavored to represent
the best dining on the Oregon Coast.
Professional service, a beautiful and comfortable
setting and world-class hospitality
complement the outstanding cuisine of
chef Sean McCart. Food is The Bay House's
passion, art form and your enjoyment.
Forbes 3-Star, AAA 3-Diamond rated
Wine Enthusiast Award of Ultimate Selection
Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence
2100-Selection Wine List
541.996.3222 5911 Hwy 101, Lincoln City thebayhouse.org
INN OF THE
FOUR WINDS
Inn of the Four Winds is one of
Seaside’s best kept secrets. This
oceanfront storybook hotel is
located on the Seaside Promenade
and within walking distance
of downtown. The Inn
offers guests spectacular ocean
views and personalized guest
service. Each room has a gas
fireplace, wet bar, Tempur-Pedic
mattress, complimentary wireless internet and fresh-baked cookies upon arrival.
Several vacation rental homes are also available through the Inn.
800.818.9524 820 North Prom, Seaside innofthefourwinds.com
ELIZABETH STREET INN
Curl up by the in-room fireplace
or gaze out at the panoramic
ocean view off your own private
balcony. Take in the views
from our indoor salt water pool,
spa and fitness center. Wake up
refreshed as you start your day
with our hot breakfast buffet.
Try our seasonal evening appetizer
of smoked salmon chowder and daily fresh-baked cookies. Take an easy
stroll to shops, restaurants and entertainment in nearby historic Nye Beach.
877.265.9400 232 SW Elizabeth Street, Newport elizabethstreetinn.com
INN AT SPANISH HEAD
The Inn at Spanish Head invites
you to experience exceptional
oceanfront lodging and
penthouse dining at Oregon's
only resort hotel built right on
the beach. Each of the Inn's
oceanfront guest and meeting
rooms has floor-to-ceiling
windows offering breath-taking
ocean views. Many guest rooms have a full kitchen or kitchenette
and balcony. Enjoy the Inn's gracious service and year-round amenities
including an oceanfront restaurant and bar offering casual dining
for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week, and an exceptional
Sunday Champagne brunch. There is also an outdoor heated pool, recreation
room, saunas, enclosed oceanview spa and room service.
800.452.8127 4009 SW Hwy 101, Lincoln City spanishhead.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson, 541.550.7081, ross@1859magazine.com
SEASIDE OUTLET MALLS
The Seaside Factory Outlet Center
is located on Oregon’s beautiful
north coast. Just five blocks from
downtown’s historic oceanfront
promenade and beach. Shoppers
will find a wide variety of apparel
and accessories for all ages ranging
from upscale fashion to affordable
casual lines, footwear, hair care
products and services, kitchen accessories, tools, books, vitamins, specialty food and confections.
The Seaside Factory Outlet Center is also home to one of the best wine and beer shops
on the Oregon Coast with over 300 imported and domestic beers and daily wine tasting.
503.717.1603 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside seasideoutlets.com
HALLMARK RESORT-
CANNON BEACH
The Hallmark Resort in Cannon
Beach is oceanfront with spectacular
views from your balcony
and a pristine beach just steps
away. The resort offers kitchenettes,
cozy fireplaces, in-room
spas, wi-fi, coffee and legendary
customer service. Relax in a twoperson
whirlpool tub or bring the
family and enjoy our pool, sauna
and fitness center. Experience our
full-service on-site spa, featuring a complete menu to pamper yourself. Pets are welcome.
888.448.4449 1400 South Hemlock, Cannon Beach hallmarkinn.com
1859 oregon’s magazine autumn 2011 139

Central Oregon
THE OXFORD HOTEL
Discover a hip urban oasis
in the middle of the great
outdoors. Located in the
heart of historic downtown
Bend, The Oxford
Hotel is Bend's first and
only boutique hotel with
fifty-nine stylish suites
and amenities that will
satisfy every whim. Come
experience a side of Bend
you've never seen before.
541.382.8436 10 NW Minnesota Ave., Bend oxfordhotelbend.com
900 WALL
The inspiration for 900 Wall comes from its sincere desire to be a
strong part of the Central Oregon community. 900 Wall brings its
guests outstanding food, drink and service in a comfortable, social
atmosphere. A gathering place for any special occasion, 900 Wall
is not afraid to have a lot of fun with it. Check out 900 Wall's fine
selection of sparkling wines by the glass.
541.323.6295 900 Wall Street, Bend 900wall.com
SCANLON'S
Located in the Athletic Club
of Bend, Scanlon's was
named 2007 Best Fine Dining
Restaurant in Central
Oregon by Gusto magazine.
Open to the public,
members and guests enjoy
fine dining in a warm and
friendly atmosphere. Scanlon's
is the perfect place for
all occasions, from a romantic evening to family dining. Dinner reservations
are always suggested. If you have children, child care is free with a reservation.
541.382.8769 61615 Mt. Bachelor Dr., Bend athleticclubofbend.com
SEVENTH MOUNTAIN RESORT
Located in the heart of Central Oregon,
Seventh Mountain Resort is
a year-round paradise encircled
by peaks, lakes and meadows. Offering
a special brand of hospitality
shrouded in natural splendor,
the resort provides the perfect
destination for families, groups
and adventure-seekers. Enjoy the
closest lodging to Mt. Bachelor,
Oregon’s most celebrated ski and
snowboard area—just fouteen miles away. Seventh Mountain's condominiums
provide the perfect accommodation for any occasion.
855.203.8513 8575 SW Century Dr., Bend seventhmountain.com
GREG'S GRILL
Situated in the heart of the historic
Old Mill District, this polished
casual restaurant has
spectacular river and mountain
views. Enjoy everything from
signature rotisserie prime rib to
great sandwiches and salads. Enjoy
steak, seafood or chicken selections grilled to perfection on an apple-wood
fired grill. The restaurant also features the most extensive wine by the glass selection
in Bend, complementing a special bar menu from 3 p.m. to close daily. There
is something for everyone. You can now make your reservations online through
opentable.com.
541.382.2200 395 SW Powerhouse Dr., Bend gregsgrill.com
COMPLEMENTS HOME INTERIORS
In Bend’s new Century Center, Complements Home Interiors is a full-service interior
design showroom with flooring, surfaces, furnishings and window coverings. If you
are new to Central Oregon or visiting and searching for your ideal home or retreat,
Complements can help with all of your new construction or remodeling needs. If
you are working with an architect or builder, Complements will be a great addition
to your team. Hourly rate consultations and project management are available.
541.322.7337 70 SW Century Drive, Suite 145, Bend complementshome.com
140 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

CenTral Oregon
HIGH DESERT MUSEUM
Meet live owls, hawks, eagles,
porcupines, an otter, a bobcat
and more animals close up. Explore
the Spirit of the West exhibit
with its re-created 1880s
settlement town and live historical
performers. Chat with stage
coach drivers, homesteaders and
others whose grit and determination
shaped the region. Explore
a renowned Native American collection, children’s hands-on play spaces, outdoor
educational trails and special events featuring experts of the arts and
sciences. Multigenerational, multisensory lifelong learning and fun.
541.382.4754 59800 Hwy 97, Bend highdesertmuseum.org
CASCADE LAKES BREWING
COMPANY LODGE
The top spot for the post-mountain
bike ride and aprés ski, The
Lodge has some of the best craft
beers in a town known for microbrews.
The Blonde Bombshell
goes nicely with an ambitious
pub-grub menu. Bar and restaurant
with billiards, darts and
large screen TVs. Every Wednesday from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. is local's night.
Try the award winning Paulina Lake Pilsner.
BLACK BUTTE RANCH
Tucked in the Cascade Mountains
of Central Oregon, Black Butte
Ranch is a destination community
seven miles west of Sisters
and thirty minutes away from
Bend. It is a resort that has garnered
various awards from publications
like Golf Digest, Travel
& Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler.
The 1,800-acre property offers
120+ vacation rentals and
hotel-style lodge rooms. Guests
can choose from numerous recreational
opportunities such as
swimming, championship golfing,
running, biking, horseback
riding, various winter sports or
one of many spa treatments.
With proximity to the Metolius
and McKenzie rivers, it is also
the perfect base camp for fishing
and whitewater rafting. In 2012,
the Ranch will also debut its
$4 million remodel of the Glaze
Meadow Golf Course—a celebration
of classic American championship
golf course architecture.
photo by Mike Houska
541.388.4998 1441 SW Chandler Ave # 100 cascadelakes.com
DOUGLAS FINE JEWELRY
MADE IN BEND OREGON
Custom bridal is more accessible than
you think when you work directly
with the designer and manufacturer.
Why not be your own brand and
make your most important jewelry
purchase as unique as you? Visit Central
Oregon’s premier custom jeweler
in downtown Bend and see its unparalleled
selection of Oregon Sunstone
and one-of-a-kind designs manufactured
in its on-site studio.
541.389.2901 920 Bond Street, Bend douglasjewelry.com
photo by Paula Watts
866.901.2961 blackbutteranch.com
10 BARREL BREW PUB
Twice voted the best brewery/brewpub
in Central Oregon, 10 Barrel is independently
handcrafted in Bend, Oregon. In
the heart of the always evolving Northwest
beer scene, 10 Barrel is doing its
part to recreate the brewing wheel.
The brewery is going to keep rolling its
own way, brewing what they love and
providing great beer.
541.678.5228 Brew Pub: 1135 NW Galveston Ave 10barrel.com
LA ROSA
Voted Best Mexican Restaurant seven years in a row with authentic mexican flavors and recipes.
La Rosa’s Mexican restaurant is a Bend favorite and located on the west side in Northwest
Crossing’s Town Center. La Rosa takes pride in high quality ingredients, authentic Mexican food
and great service. Open daily for dining in or taking out. And don’t forget La Rosa for Bend’s best
late-night dining choice. La Rosa offers private parties, special events, conferences and catering.
541.647.1624 2763 NW Crossing Dr., Bend larosabend.com
To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson, 541.550.7081, ross@1859magazine.com
1859 oregon’s magazine autumn 2011 141

EUGENE
MARCHÉ RESTAURANT
& PROVISIONS
Marché is about celebrating
life and the bountiful Pacific
Northwest with locally grown
and gathered food, prepared
with care, and served in a lively
and elegant atmosphere. The
restaurant takes its name from
the French word for market—
a word that describes not only
our location in Eugene's bustling
5th Street Market, but also our philosophy of cooking. The menu is based on the
foods from the farmers market—fresh, seasonal and regional.
541.342.3612 296 E 5th Ave., Eugene marcherestaurant.com
JORDAN SCHNITZER
MUSEUM OF ART,
UNIVERSITY OF OREGON
Xiaoze Xie: Amplified
Moments 1993–2008
Through December 31
The first U.S. retrospective
of this internationally
known contemporary
Chinese artist explores
Xie’s interest in contemporary
news, literature,
and the media as
well as meditations on
time, memory and history
through paintings,
photos, installations, and
video. Curated by Dan
Mills, director, Bates College
Museum of Art, and
organized by the Samek
Art Gallery, Bucknell University.
Made possible at the JSMA by the Coeta and Donald Barker
Changing Exhibitions Endowment Fund, the William C. Mitchell Estate,
and JSMA members. Also on view: East/West: Visually Speaking
and collections galleries featuring American, Chinese, Japanese, and
Korean art, masterworks on loan, and Russian icons.
541.346.3027 1430 Johnson Lane, Eugene jsma.uoregon.edu
UNIVERSITY OF OREGON
MUSEUM OF NATURAL & CULTURAL HISTORY
Oregon – Where Past is Present. See
how dynamic changes in the Earth
have shaped the land we now call Oregon.
Get a glimpse of ancient animals
through the bones and
fossils they left behind
and see the world’s oldest
shoes – 10,000 year-old
sagebrush-bark sandals.
541.346.3024 1680 E. 15th Ave., Eugene natural-history.uoregon.edu
HOP VALLEY BREWING
This premier brewery and restaurant,
located in the heart of the Willamette
Valley, is home to some of the best
award-winning microbrews Oregon
has to offer. Its hoppy, well-balanced
IPAs, rich vanilla-infused porter and
world class blonde ale are just a few
of the brews that round out their
diverse tap selection. The comfortable
dining room and full-service bar
create the perfect environment for
sampling these phenomenal Oregon
beers.
342.744.3330 980 Kruse Way, Springfield hopvalleybrewing.com
EMERALD CITY,
NEWS & GIFTS
Emerald City News
& Gifts is an Oregon
company
serving the needs
of Eugene Airport
travelers since 2003. Its two well-appointed stores in the Eugene Airport Terminal
feature a broad assortment of products sure to please travelers. These
include magazines, books, greeting cards, souvenirs gifts and a nice variety of
snack foods and beverages. Emerald City proudly offers local products from
companies like Euphoria Chocolate Co, Jody Coyote, Sweet Cheeks Winery
and Kopper Kettle. Don’t miss these wonderful stores on your next trip.
541.689.6641 Eugene Airport Terminal (EUG)
SKEIES JEWELERS
In 2011, Skeie’s Jewelers was named
one of the top 50 designer retailers
in the nation by JCK. Come visit a
store that has been family owned
and run since 1922 with an emphasis
on excellent quality paired with
the latest fashion trends. Skeie’s
carries many designers such as Rolex,
Tag Heuer, Mikimoto, Roberto
Coin, Fredrick Sage, Pandora, A. Jaffe, Precision Set, Furrer Jacot and much more. You
will also find five AGS certified gemologists, three bench jewelers, and a Rolex-trained
master watchmaker on hand for in-house custom jewelry, repairs and appraisals.
541.345.0354 10 Oakway Center, Eugene skeies.com
VALLEY RIVER INN
Valley River Inn is the
time-honored classic
of Eugene hotels. It is
a unique resort-style
hotel and conference
center, located along
the quiet banks of the
Willamette River. Experience
the comfortable retreat that sets the standard for Eugene
hotels. Convenient to downtown and the University of Oregon, Valley
River Inn boasts well-appointed accommodations and family-friendly
features in a picturesque setting.
800.543.8266 1000 Valley River Way, Eugene valleyriverinn.com
142 1859 oregon's magazine autumn 2011

map of oregon
1859 Mapped
The points of interest below are culled from
stories and events in this edition of 1859.
Seattle
Oregon’s Kissing Bridges PAGE 22
CEDAR CROSSING
ROCK O’ THE RANGE
CHITWOOD
ROCHESTER
PANGRA
PACIFIC OCEAN
Bandon
Brookings
101
Coos Bay
199
Florence
Newport
Grants Pass
Corvalis
20
5
30
5
Cannon 26
Beach
Hillsboro
Hood
Tillamook
River
47
101
205 Gresham
35
Portland
Boring
Gov’t Camp
Lincoln City
126
Roseburg
COASTAL RANGE
Astoria
Seaside
18
Eugene
Jacksonville
Ashland
99W
Albany
Medford
5
Salem
Sweet Home
Springfield
126
CASCADE RANGE
20
22
140
58
Oakridge
20
242
26
Sisters
CRATER LAKE
COLUMBIA RIVER
84
97
97
The
Dalles
197 97
Maupin
Bend
Madras
126
Redmond
Prineville
31
Klamath Falls
140
20
Paisley
84
26
395
Lakeview
11
Pendleton
La Grande
395
Baker City
Joseph
WALLOWA MTNS
84
John Day
26
395
20
Burns
78
95
STEENS MOUNTAINS
95
HELLS CANYON
Ontario
Road Reconsidered [pg. 31]
Drive Highway 31 into the Oregon
Outback in this geological tour.
Jane Goodall
October 8
World famous primatologist Dr. Jane
Goodall comes to Central Oregon
for an exclusive engagement at the
Deschutes County Fairgrounds Hooker
Creek Events Center.
Redmond, 541.410.4122
Grain Elevators [pg. 84]
Take in the varied styles of grain
elevator architecture along the
Heppner Highway, or highways
207 and 74.
Oregon Ballet Theatre [pg. 45]
December 10-22
The Heart is a Cocktail: a saucy
holiday revue from musicians and
OBT dancers.
Applegate Uncorked [pg. 22]
November 20
Tour 15 wineries in Applegate Valley
for appetizers paired with the best
wine from each.
Meet the Pioneers [pg. 22]
October 14-15
Take a stroll in Jacksonville’s Historic
Cemetery and Meet the Pioneers—a
one-hour tour that rings in the harvest
season with tales of traveling
west to Oregon told by folks dressed
in late 1800s garb. friendsjvillecemetery.org
Fall Foliage Photo Train [pg. 22]
October 15-16
Enjoy a ride on the Sumpter Valley
Railroad for a one- to two-day journey
of fall foliage photo opportunities
throughout Eastern Oregon.
svry.com
Pumpkin Patches page 22
HEISER FARMS, Dayton
heiserfarms.com
WOODEN SHOE TULIP FARM, Woodburn
woodenshoe.com
RASMUSSEN FARMS, Hood River
rasmussenfarms.com
BAUMAN’S FARM AND GARDEN, Gervais
baumanfarms.com
SMITH ROCK RANCH (Central Oregon Pumpkin Co.)
Terrebonne, pumpkinco.com
MAHAFFY RANCH PUMPKIN PATCH, Coos Bay
facebook.com/mahaffyranch
144 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

top reasons to be a AAA MeMber!
ask us how your aaa membership can pay for itself.
PeACe of MIND
AAA roadside assistance is available 24 hours a day. You’re
covered whether you’re the driver, or the passenger in someone
else’s car. Assistance is available easily on your smart phone by
downloading the AAA roadside app. Visit AAA.com/mobile.
CAll toll free
1-855-222-4437
www.AAA.com
CArrY the CArD, PoCket the sAvINgs
show your AAA card and enjoy member-only discounts up to
30% on entertainment, shopping, travel, restaurants and more.
get your AAA discounts on the go by downloading your Discounts app.
Visit AAA.com/mobile.
stArt here...go ANYwhere
wherever your travels take you, your local AAA travel store has
everything you need for your next vacation or business trip at
reduced member pricing.
sAve MoNeY wheN You trAvel
enjoy AAA member discounts on cruises, tours, Disney packages
and more. let us plan your next trip and receive exclusive discounts
on hotels, and hertz car rental reservations.
ProteCtIoN & sAvINgs wIth AAA INsurANCe AgeNCY
save money with a home and auto multi-policy discount. And you may
qualify for member-only auto insurance discounts. Download the AAA
Insurance app for your iPhone. Visit AAA.com/mobile.
PlAN. MAP. go.
Planning a trip across town or across the country, AAA has you covered.
Members receive complimentary maps, tourbooks ® , and triptik ® travel
Planner driving directions. Download your AAA triptik ® app for maps,
directions, fuel prices and more! Visit AAA.com/mobile.

oregon quotient
What’s your OQ?
In the 1910s, this group was well practiced at the farm-to-table concept.
Though they don’t take on the appearance of traditional athletes, they had
likely just finished an impressive athletic feat before this meal. An interesting
note that gets you no closer to the answer is that the table is cloth strewn
over chicken wire. To what group do these early Oregonians belong?
Answer for a chance to win
Answer this question at 1859magazine.com for a chance
to win a night at the Hotel Vintage Plaza in Portland.
The winner of the previous
OQ and a $250 gift certificate
to Sun Country Raft Tours is
Monica Kirk. These men-folk
were having a little party on
Sucker Lake, or what’s known
today as Lake Oswego.
146 1859 oregon's magazine AUTUMN 2011

o