1889 AugSept 2017

TRIP PLANNER 

LAKE CHELAN 

PG.79 

Reimagined 

Farmhouses 

Cooking with 

Summer ’Shrooms 

Vancouver’s 

Secret Garden 

Molly Moon’s 

Blackberry 

Sorbet 

POINT ROBERTS: 

THE END 

OF THE LINE 

Sippin On 

Gin ‘n’ Lavender 

1889mag.com 

$5.95 display until September 30, 2017 

LIVE THINK EXPLORE WASHINGTON 

August | September volume 4

Live Rogue 

TravelGrantsPass.com

A Comprehensive 

Approach to Health 

photography by James Harnois 

From her own cookshop to teaching exercise classes 

and holding down the fort at home, Monica Lynne has 

harnessed the potential of a holistically healthy lifestyle. 

Learn her tips and tricks for staying fit in a fast-paced 

world in Mind + Body (page 36). 

4 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 5

Features 

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017 • volume 4 

Michael Schoenholtz 

52 

On the Road Again 

Taking to the backroads of the Gifford Pinchot 

National Forest in an Airstream Flying Cloud. 

written by Kevin Max 

60 

The Place at the End of the Line 

Point Roberts is part isolation, part charm, 

and all Washington. 

written by James Sinks 

66 

Vancouver’s Schoen Garden 

A secret, once-famous garden awaited new homeowners 

underneath blackberry brambles. 

photography by Gina Williams 

A man sits at the Shell 

Center in Point Roberts.

design: tnbd.net 

TITLE SPONSORS 

HEADLINE SPONSORS 

GEAR EXPO & SALE • CAMPING • MUSIC • FILM • RAFFLE • ACTIVITIES • PCTDAYS.COM

20 

DEPARTMENTS 

AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017 • volume 4 

LIVE 

16 SAY WA? 

Festivals abound this time of year, and we’ve got some picks for you. 

Seattle’s Pickwick breaks down its new album, and Bree Loewen talks 

tragedy and survival in her new book about volunteering for the 

Seattle Mountain Rescue. 

22 FOOD + DRINK 

Quench your thirst with our best places for cocktails, then fill your 

belly with the best dining in Seabrook. 

26 HOME + DESIGN 

Late summer is the perfect time for foraged mushrooms—and we have 

simple recipes to get you started. Then, salivate over two modern spins 

on farm-style homes, and learn how to make your own sliding barn 

door. 

36 MIND + BODY 

Monica Lynne, a personal trainer and wellness and nutrition coach, 

wants you to live your best life. 

48 

Austin Smith 

84 

Austin White 

38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 

Washington’s poet laureate, Gonzaga University professor Tod 

Marshall, is circling the state to encourage residents’ love of poetry. 

THINK 

44 STARTUP 

SUPrents wants to deliver standup paddleboards to vacationers, 

without the hassle. 

46 WHAT’S GOING UP 

South King County is getting a new Dick’s Drive-In, and two other 

favorites are delivering new restaurants. 

47 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 

A local birder has set the goal of seeing more than 350 Washington 

birds this year—he’s well on his way. 

48 MY WORKSPACE 

Troy Carpenter stopped in at the Goldendale Observatory four years 

ago and walked out with his dream job. 

50 GAME CHANGER 

Molly Moon’s Homemade Ice Cream launches a record label for its 

employees. 

12 Editor’s Letter 

13 1889 Online 

86 Map of Washington 

88 Until Next Time 

EXPLORE 

72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 

Longview is a haven for squirrels—with high-wire bridges to prevent 

rodent roadkill. 

74 ADVENTURE 

Climbing Mount St. Helens is a family affair for Dylan Darling—it was 

the first of the large Cascade Mountains he ever climbed. 

78 LODGING 

Hotel Vintage Seattle combines urban chic and fine dining. 

COVER 

photo by Cameron Zegers 

Molly Moon’s Ice Cream 

Seattle, Washington 

79 TRIP PLANNER 

Go off-grid in Lake Chelan without skimping on fun or adventure. 

84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 

Astoria, Oregon is a picturesque fishing town with a storied past.

SCOOP UP 

OUR LATEST GEAR 

Washington’s Magazine 

Purchase your limited edition* 

gear at 1889mag.com/ 

icecream today! 

*Available until September 30, 2017

CONTRIBUTORS 

CATIE JOYCE-BULAY 

Writer 

Trip Planner 

AUSTIN SMITH 

Photographer 

My Workspace 

The first time I came upon 

Lake Chelan was during my 

thru-hike of the Pacific Crest 

Trail with my husband two 

summers ago. Stehekin was 

our last food drop before 

Canada. I was so captivated 

by this tiny remote village and 

the gorgeous lake that I knew 

I’d be back. I’m so glad to have 

the opportunity to return, 

explore the lake’s southern 

reaches and share this special 

destination with readers. 

(p. 79) 

MICHAEL SCHOENHOLTZ 

Photographer 

Point Roberts: The End 

of the Line 

Point Roberts is a place I’d seen 

on a map, dangling off the British 

Columbia mainland; a highway 

exit I’d passed many times and 

wondered about. By sheer luck, 

we ran into a guy who knew 

practically every person on The 

Point, and offered to take us 

around, including to a spot where 

the international “border wall” 

is only a foot high, and has a 

basketball hoop on the Canadian 

side. One can’t help but wonder 

if the kids sneak over the border 

to fetch stray balls or if neighbors 

pass cups of sugar or a couple of 

DYLAN J. DARLING 

Writer 

Adventure 

Every time I end up scrambling 

through the boulder field 

on Mount St. Helens I think, 

“Why am I doing this again?” 

Shuffling through the ash on 

the last slope to the top only 

amplifies this thought. But 

then I reach the crater rim and 

am reminded just how magical 

a place the mountain is and 

why anyone in the Northwest 

should want to go up it. The 

boulders and ash are worth it. 

(p. 74) 

The second I saw Troy’s vintage 

suit filling up the Observatory’s 

doorway, I knew I was in for a 

memorable shoot. When I work 

with someone so full of energy 

and life like Troy, I can’t help but 

walk away with a reinvigorated 

passion for my craft and a 

fresh sense of purpose. Troy 

is a master of his domain, a 

veritable encyclopedia of astral 

(and earthly) knowledge. He 

struck me as a perfect fit for 

the Observatory, and, though 

I know his backstory, I found 

myself wondering, which 

arrived here first? 

(p. 48) 

eggs across the border. 

(p. 60) 


EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR 

CREATIVE LEAD 

DESIGN 

SALES + MARKETING 

WEB EDITOR 

WEBMASTER 

OFFICE MANAGER 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES 

BEERVANA COLUMNIST 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

Kevin Max 

Sheila G. Miller 

Brooke Miracle 

Allison Bye 

Kelly Hervey 

Kara Tatone 

Isaac Peterson 

Cindy Miskowiec 

Stacey Goodman 

Cindy Guthrie 

Kelly Hervey 

Jenny Kamprath 

Deb Steiger 

Jackie Dodd 

Kimberly Bowker, Melissa Dalton, Dylan Darling, Nick 

Engelfried, Alison Highberger, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Julie Lee, 

Lindsay McWilliams, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Corinne Whiting, 

Gina Williams, Mackenzie Wilson 

James Harnois, David Reamer, Michael Schoenholtz, Austin Smith, 

Austin White, Shane Young, Cameron Zegers 

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EDITOR’S 

LETTER 

JUST AS IMPORTANT as getting on the road for any 

road trip is getting back off the road. In this issue of 1889, 

we hike, bike and wander through six different experiences 

across Washington and into Oregon. 

Perhaps the most extreme of these is a slip of city in 

Washington accessible only through Canada. Writer 

James Sinks digs out his passport to take us into what he 

describes as “Cape Cod meets the Midwest.” 

Back, well within the uninterrupted boundary of the 

state, Lake Chelan stretches from Chelan in the south 

50 miles north into the Wenatchee National Forest and 

unincorporated Stehekin. Catie Joyce-Bulay finds coffee, 

wine, quiche and peace on the remote and relaxing natural 

lake. Turn to page 79 to follow in her footsteps. 

No story about travel in Washington would be credible 

without touching on Mount St. Helens, the iconic 

mountain known for its massive eruption in 1980. Today it 

is a wonderland for recreation. Dylan Darling takes us up 5 

miles and 4,500 feet to the new top of Mount St. Helens, in 

his fourth summit of his favorite climb. We learn the nuts 

and bolts of hiking Mount St. Helens, plus the inspiring 

story of his relentless “Uncle Butch.” Find this story on 

page 74. 

The other side of Mount St. Helens, the east side, 

is a different landscape left relatively untouched and 

untorched by lava flows in 1980. This patch of green on 

a map is situated in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. 

Trails through its towering old-growth cedar and along 

the crystal clear Lewis River are the site for a weekend of 

glamping in an Airstream trailer. We found the perfect 

spot removed from the rest of the world, and then 

desperately sourced the ingredients for what we’re now 

calling “country store carbonara.” Join in on page 52. 

While we were at it in the Road Trip Issue, we crossed 

the 4-mile Astoria-Megler Bridge to land in the oldest 

continuous settlement west of the Rockies. Astoria, once 

a small fishing town, lies at the mighty mouth of the 

Columbia. It retains much of its small-fishing-town charm, 

but is increasingly a cultured pearl of art and cuisine. The 

northwest corner of Oregon harbors a fascinating piece 

of American history and the salt-of-the-earth FisherPoets 

Gathering each February (page 84). 

Ending on a poetic note, we talk with Washington Poet 

Laureate Tod Marshall, a working man’s wordsmith, who 

crisscrosses the state with “Poetry for All” events. Read his 

poem Resolution and liberate the words behind your own 

inner poet. Page 38. 


1889 ONLINE 

More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content 

1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington 

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS 

Have a photo that captures 

your Washington experience? 

Share it with us by filling out the 

Washington: In Focus form on 

our website. If chosen, you’ll be 

published here. 

1889mag.com/in-focus 

MORE ONLINE 

Video —Reading by Washington’s 

Poet Laureate 

photo by 

Scott Minner 

Picture Lake and 

picturesque views of 

Mount Shuksan. 

ENTER TO WIN 

Unwind at Quinault Beach Resort 

Enter to win your dream getaway—two nights at Quinault Beach Resort 

in Ocean Shores, as well as dinner for two at Emily’s Fine Dining. Plus, 

the winner will receive a free two-year subscription to 1889 Washington’s 

Magazine and all of 1889‘s latest ice-cream themed products so you can 

hit the beach in style. 

1889mag.com/beach-contest 

Gonzaga University professor Tod 

Marshall is Washington‘s poet 

laureate. His request and advice 

for readers? Memorize a poem. 

1889mag.com/poet 


Uptic Studios 

SAY WA? 16 

FOOD + DRINK 22 

HOME + DESIGN 26 

MIND + BODY 36 

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38 

pg. 30 

A modern barn home in the Palouse.

BELLINGHAM 

Friday & Saturday 

Sept. 22 & 23 

Downtown Bellingham 

& Bellingham Bay 

2017 

Seafood Everywhere You Turn 

Boat Tours & Dock Walks 

Maritime Art Vendors 

Hotel Packages 

Carmen 

a co-production with Opera Coeur D’Alene 

Eckart Preu, Conductor 

Jadd Davis, Director 

Sandra Piques Eddy, Carmen 

Dinyar Vani, Don José 

Matt Hanscom, Escamillo 

September 22-23 8 pm 

Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox 

Georges Bizet’s timeless tale of a naïve soldier 

who is seduced by the wiles of the fiery gypsy, 

Carmen. Reckless, charming and provocative, 

make this your first opera and it won’t 

be your last. This semi-staged production 

includes a full orchestra. 

Tickets on 

sale NOW 

DOWN BY THE BAY. 

COME EAT & PLAY! 

Friday SeaFeed 

Seafood Tastings 

FisherPoets-on-Bellingham Bay 

Live Music & Beer Garden 

U.S. Coast Guard Rescue 

BellinghamSeaFeast.com 

Eckart Preu Music Director 

SPONSORED BY: 

Frank Knott, 

Billie Severtsen, 

Inland Northwest 

Community Foundation 

Photo by Don Sausser 

509 624 1200 | SpokaneSymphony.org

say wa? 

Tidbits & To-dos 

FEATHERED FRIENDS SLEEPING BAGS 

Camping out in the North 

Cascades, the Enchantments or 

near Mount Rainier this summer? 

Stay warm in high-altitude weather 

with Feathered Friends Sleeping 

Bags made in Seattle. Goose 

down-filled bags allow for a cozy 

slumber in temperatures as low as 

0 degrees, with ultra-lightweight 

and waterproof options available. 

featheredfriends.com 

Zoo Tunes 

Summer concerts at the Woodland 

Park Zoo continue throughout August 

with performances by CAKE, Blind Pilot, 

Pat Benatar and more. Watch the sun set 

to live music in the scenic setting of the 

zoo’s North Meadow. 

zoo.orgg 


say wa? 

Stillaguamish 

Festival of the River 

Ellensburg 

Rodeo 

Join in the celebration of 

Stillaguamish tribal culture at the 

Festival of the River, a free, public 

event with tons of entertainment, 

family-friendly activities and 

educational opportunities. At 

River Meadows Country Park in 

Arlington, participate in the Pow 

Wow, compete in the salmon 

obstacle course and watch a 

performance by country singer 

LeAnn Rimes throughout the 

weekend of August 12-13. 

festivaloftheriver.com 

mark your 

CALENDAR 

Since 1923, the Ellensburg 

Rodeo has been drawing 

the cowboy hat crowd to 

central Washington for a 

rowdy Labor Day weekend. 

Along with carnival rides 

and concerts, classic rodeo 

events draw more than 600 

of the nation’s best riders, 

ropers and wrestlers to the 

Ellensburg Rodeo grounds, 

September 1-4. 

ellensburgrodeo.com 

Total Solar Eclipse 

On August 21, a rare total 

solar eclipse will sweep across 

the West Coast, pointing the 

world’s eyes upward. Though 

you’ll only be able to see a 

partial eclipse from the state of 

Washington, take a drive down 

into neighboring Oregon to 

get the full experience of this 

monumental moment. Stellar 

viewing areas include Newport, 

areas in the Willamette Valley, 

Madras and John Day. 

eclipse2017.org 

mark your 

CALENDAR 


say wa? 

Ellie Lillstrom 

Musician 

Returning to Roots 

written by Ben Salmon 

Seattle’s Pickwick recently released its second full-length album, LoveJoys. 

Pickwick’s new album is straight out of the basement 

Listen 

on Spotify 

WRITING AND RECORDING an album is hard enough 

without scrapping forty songs at some point along the way. But 

that’s exactly what Pickwick did while making its sophomore 

full-length, LoveJoys. 

According to frontman Galen Disston, the veteran Seattle 

band was tinkering with its creative process and you could 

hear the strain in the material they left behind. “Our best songs 

come in a burst when we’re all together in the basement, open 

to following whatever direction the song takes us,” he said. 

So Pickwick returned to its old ways, cranking out a batch 

of new songs from the basement. The result is LoveJoys, 

which tightens up the band’s buzzy rock ‘n’ soul, giving it a 

funkier, more polished feel while retaining plenty of Pickwick’s 

characteristic grit. 

By letting go, Disston said, the band found its way. 

“It became obvious to all of us as the songs came that we 

were moving in a different direction,” he said. “And I started to 

feel good again.” 


say wa? 

Bibliophile 

Aid, at Elevation 

Bree Loewen gives an inside line 

to a life in mountain rescue in Found 

interview by Sheila G. Miller 

Seattle Mountain Rescue 

Bree Loewen works her way down the side of Snoqualmie Falls. 

AS A LONGTIME MEMBER of Seattle Mountain 

Rescue, Bree Loewen has seen tragic ends and epic 

tales of survival. In her new book, Found: A Life in 

Mountain Rescue, Loewen takes readers along on 

those highs and lows. She also lets you in on the 

emotional toll this (volunteer) work can take—on a 

marriage, a home life and a career. 

Her rescue crew, made up of forty-eight 

volunteers, is on call every hour and every day of 

every year. And as more people move to the area, 

more outdoorsmen and women need rescuing. 

“We’ve had a 36 percent increase in rescues over 

the past five years,” Loewen said. “It’s not that 

people are doing crazy stuff out there, it’s really not. 

It’s just that as the population of Seattle increases, 

this is where people go to recreate.” 

In 2016, there were 160 rescues on the I-90 

corridor, which Seattle Mountain Rescue patrols 

with help from other rescue organizations. 

“We haven’t missed one yet,” she said. 

Found is Loewen’s second book. Her first, Pickets 

and Dead Men, was about her experiences 

working as a National Park Service climbing 

ranger at Mount Rainier. 


say wa? 

How did you get into mountain rescue? 

I was a pretty bookish kid. My parents 

aren’t outdoorsy—the first time I ever 

slept outside was when I was 15, with 

some friends of mine. But actually, King 

County has a youth-based rescue group 

and I started doing that at age 15—I did 

my first body recovery when I was 15, 

which probably explains a lot about my 

personality. People don’t give young 

people the opportunity to do real work 

or trust them with really important 

things. I think that being trusted with 

important work helps people rise to 

the occasion, it’s a huge developmental 

factor. So I fell in love with the idea 

of being able to do work that meant 

something to the community. 

How did you pick which rescue 

stories you wrote about in the book? 

I had a lot to choose from. I went on 

thirty-four rescues last year and over 

a hundred in the past three years, and 

I think it’s the ones that stayed at the 

top of my mind, so I wrote them down. 

I write so I can sleep, and so I think 

whatever is keeping me up at night is 

the one that I write down next. 

One of the themes in your book is 

being pulled in different directions 

between your roles as a stay-athome 

mom and as a rescuer who 

puts her life on the line. Have you 

found peace there? 

I don’t know that it’s necessarily that 

I’m more comfortable but that it’s 

more familiar. It’s always going to be a 

source of internal conflict. I think that 

I love the work, and I love my family 

and I know that sometimes those 

things are at odds, and I can’t love 

either of them any less. I can’t sacrifice 

either one of them, so I think it’s just 

a dichotomy that I’m going to have to 

live with. 

When I was a park ranger, I sort of 

recognized that it was going to be very 

difficult doing that job and also live 

someplace where I could have a family, 

and so I figured out that I needed to 

balance the rescuing with the rest of 

my life. I’ve had a couple people ask 

me whether I have advice for moms 

Bree Loewen’s new book, Found: A Life 

in Mountain Rescue, follows her time 

at Seattle Mountain Rescue. 

who are balancing doing crazy stuff 

in the outdoors and also having a 

daughter. I don’t really have any great 

advice. My daughter is 8, and by the 

time she’s 18, I’m sure she’ll tell me, 

in really exacting terms, what I could 

have done as a parent. But right now 

I’m still sort of in the thick of it. 

You write about not knowing what 

to say to the families of those who 

die in the backcountry or to people 

you’re rescuing who are in pain or 

dying. And yet you write about the 

situations so beautifully. 

I think I’m a much better writer than 

I am a talker. I love having the ability 

to reflect on it before—I think it’s that 

way for everybody. I’m definitely still 

struggling in the moment with what 

those correct words are. 

All through the history of the 

world people dealt with death all the 

time, and maybe because they were 

so familiar with that they developed 

traditions and rituals and whatever 

those words are that we’re supposed 

to say in those situations. But in the 

modern world, we’re really separated 

from death, to the point where it’s 

traumatic to see a dead person. 

I feel a little bit like I’m reinventing 

the wheel and it’s super awkward, and 

I know I’ll never be able to say the right 

thing. I’m kind of torn, because on the 

one hand, maybe it’s just enough to 

be there for someone—you don’t 

necessarily have to say anything as 

long as you’re just there. And on the 

other hand it would be great to have 

those words. 

The climbing community and the 

back-country ski community, these 

are high-risk things, so knowing those 

words is fairly significant for every 

back-country user. As a community, 

we’ve got a vested interest in 

being able to create that part of 

our world. 

Paul Bongaarts 


food + drink 

Cocktail Card 

recipe courtesy of Mikel Lenox and Eli Gardener 

of Dry Fly Distilling in Spokane 

Fizz Face 

1 ½ ounces Dry Fly Gin 

½ ounce lemon lavender simple syrup 

from Royal Rose Syrups 

½ ounce lime juice 

1 egg white 

Fresh lavender garnish 

Dry shake the egg white to emulsify 

proteins and gain frothy texture. Add 

gin, syrup, juice and ice, shake again to 

get chill and dilution. Strain into coupe 

and garnish with lavender. 

Beervana 

Randall Me This 

written and photographed by Jackie Dodd 

IMAGINE, IF YOU WILL, a canister on the draft line, sitting 

somewhere between the keg and the tap. Now imagine you’ve 

ordered a beer, perhaps a rich stout. Imagine this beautifully malty 

beer getting pushed through the canister before it gets to your pint 

glass but the canister is filled with coffee beans. Or cocoa nibs. Or 

vanilla bean pods. Imagine that the flavor of your beer has been 

altered ever so slightly to include these flavors. This is a Randall. 

Or, to use the contraption’s full and proper name, Randall The 

Enamel Animal. This little beer infusion device was invented more 

than a decade ago by Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery in order 

to increase the flavor of hops in its IPA for a beer competition. It 

has since become a favorite experiment of taproom jockeys across 

the world. 

Seattle, as it turns out, has some of the best. Thor at Reuben’s 

Brews is well-known as the leading expert in all things Randall, 

earning a decent-sized following from his beer infusions. Fremont 

always has a Randall or two in play, with combinations like saison 

Randalled through lemongrass, or an imperial stout Randalled 

through coffee beans. 

This phenomenon isn’t limited to just breweries—beer bars 

and bottle shops are getting in on the action. Pine Box has several 

events with a long row of Randalls taking center stage. The Twelve 

Randalls of Xmas, which passes an assortment of beers through 

holiday-themed ingredients—such as a Belgian ale pushed through 

rum-soaked currants—is one of Pine Box’s biggest events. If you’re 

the curious sort, a beer infusion device might suit your tastes. 

Want to give a Randall a go? Here are some places to pull up a bar stool 

and ask, “What do you have on Randall?” 

Reuben’s Brews (Ballard) 

Fremont Brewing (Fremont) 

Pine Box (Capitol Hill) 

Beer Junction (West Seattle) 

Parkway Tavern (Tacoma) 

Nine Yards Brewing (Kenmore) 


Join 

1859 

join 1859 wine club and experience some of oregon's finest wines. 

CHoose crisp whites, jammy reds or a little of both. 

Sign up as a new club member this month, and your first 

shipment will be just $1. 

www.1859wineclub.com/join-the-club

food + drink 

Mill 109 is one of many 

delicious restaurants 

in Seabrook. 

CRAVINGS 

SEAFOOD 

A family-friendly respite rests on the corner of 

this enchanting beach town. Mill 109 Restaurant 

& Pub serves lunch and dinner daily as well as 

weekend breakfasts. Traditional fare this is not— 

bread pudding French toast, Dungeness crab 

cake Benedict and smoked salmon scrambles 

for breakfast, razor clam sandwiches and 

longshoreman’s fish and chips for lunch, and 

comfort foods such as meatloaf and lasagna. This 

is a staple town gathering spot. 

5 WEST MYRTLE LANE 

PACIFIC BEACH 

mill109.com 

WINE PAIRINGS 

With a healthy wine selection, The Stowaway is a 

place you can melt into for an afternoon, sipping wine 

and nibbling on cheese and crackers. Suggested here 

are the white or red wine flights, featuring a selected 

variety of vino, primarily heralded from vineyards 

around the Northwest. For a long, lazy summer 

afternoon on the beach, The Stowaway provides 

picnic baskets with artisan cheeses, cured meats, 

fresh breads, marcona almonds and chocolates to 

pair with some favorite wine or beer. 

217 FRONT ST. 

PACIFIC BEACH 

thestowawaywinebar.com 

Gastronomy 

Hood to Coast Washington 

written by Julie Lee 

THE INAUGURAL Regence BlueShield Hood to Coast Washington 

presented by Nike beamed a national spotlight on the idyllic coastal 

town of Seabrook, located in Pacific Beach. Here, visitors can connect 

to nature, breathe ocean air and dine in a variety of great restaurants, 

all within a five-minute sprint on eco-friendly boardwalks and paths 

comprised of reclaimed crushed oyster shells. Many coastal towns 

claim that magical feel, but Seabrook truly has something special, 

with an uncluttered, unspoiled mile stretch of beach, spectacular 

oceanfront and village-centered cottages and unprecedented charm. 

About 4,000 runners, walkers, fans and friends descending into town 

on a sunny Saturday in early summer were warmly welcomed by 

town merchants and restaurateurs, ready to serve. The event raised 

more than $20,000 for the Junior Achievement of Washington as 

well as the Seabrook Community Foundation and hunger relief in 

Grays Harbor. 

seabrookwa.com 

24 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017 

BAKED GOODS 

For that morning cup of coffee and a delectable 

pastry, Red Velvet Bakery by the Sea hits the sweet 

spot. High notes include red velvet cupcakes, of 

course, and fresh-baked cookies and cinnamon rolls. 

For a simple lunch, the paninis are a favorite. 

202 MERIWEATHER ST. 

PACIFIC BEACH 

facebook.com/redvelvetbakerybythesea 

PIZZA 

Frontager’s Pizza Co. answers the unwritten rule that 

every beach town should have a great pizza joint. 

This is wood-fired, perfectly charred crusty pizza at 

its best, with terrific microbrews to pair it with. 

21 SEABROOK AVE. 

PACIFIC BEACH 

@frontagers 

CHOCOLATE 

Bean-to-bar chocolates are the specialty at Sweet 

Life, Seabrook’s siren’s call for sweet treats. This is a 

small-town candy and ice cream shop that transports 

time with artisanal and retro candy, small-batch ice 

cream made with hand-picked local ingredients. 

Dreaming of that creamy chocolate bar post-trip? 

Sweet Life delivers through its online store. 

215 S. MERIWEATHER ST. 

PACIFIC BEACH 

sweetlifewa.com

food + drink 

BEST PLACES FOR 

COCKTAILS 

BATHTUB GIN & CO 

Speakeasy-style bars are peaking in 

popularity in the Northwest, and Bathtub 

Gin & Co. in Seattle raises the bar for 

custom cocktails served in a cool location. 

Wedged in a boiler room, in the basement 

of an old brick hotel, Bathtub Gin & Co 

marries ambience and intimacy with a 

low-lit multi-level lounge, couches you 

can sink into, and a library of various 

liquors to sip from around the world. 

Greg Lehman 

2205 2nd Ave. 

SEATTLE 

bathtubginseattle.com 

DILLINGER’S COCKTAILS 

AND KITCHEN 

A Prohibition-themed craft cocktail 

sensation resides in one of Olympia’s 

oldest buildings, once a security building 

constructed in 1927. It’s a step back 

in time worth taking. Whereas some 

cocktail-inspired bars make food a mere 

afterthought, Dillinger’s thoughtfully 

pairs spirits with delicious bites such as 

spicy pineapple meatballs, gin-marinated 

olives and bourbon pork belly sliders. 

404 Washington St. SE 

OLYMPIA 

dillingerscocktailsandkitchen.com 

PATRON MEXICAN 

RESTAURANT 

No “best of” list of cocktails would be 

complete without a stellar margarita. 

Patron Mexican Restaurant is family run 

and located at Ken’s Korner on Whidbey 

Island, offering delicious burritos, 

enchiladas and carne asada, but more 

importantly some of the best margaritas 

this side of Mexico City. The Patron 

margarita, with fresh lime and orange 

served on the rocks, is a specialty, as is 

the bartenders margarita with a splash 

of cranberry juice. For those with a sweet 

tooth, the Midori margarita hits its target, 

as does the Whidbey margarita, made 

with locally sourced raspberry, loganberry 

or blackberry liqueur. 

11042 State Route 525, Ste. 102 

CLINTON 

patronwhidbey.com 

The Marc inside the Marcus 

Whitman Hotel was recently named 

restaurant of the year by the 

Washington Wine Commission. 

Dining 

The Marc 


LOCATED INSIDE the historic Marcus Whitman Hotel is a dining destination 

that exudes old-school splendor with nouveau seasonal fare. The Marc offers 

inspirational and artfully prepared dishes, derived from the bounty of surrounding 

farms, ranches and growers and the hotel’s own rooftop garden. Recently named 

restaurant of the year by the Washington Wine Commission, entrees such as 

smoked salmon with Brie ravioli, Wagyu boneless short ribs and grilled rack of 

lamb hit the sweet spot after a day of wine tasting. For a celebratory night out, try 

the chairman’s reserve filet mignon or the chairman’s reserve rib-eye and the day 

boat excursion seafood special for the best of surf-and-turf. 

6 West Rose St. 

WALLA WALLA 

marcuswhitmanhotel.com 


home + design 

Farm to Table 

Wild Bounty 

Foraging for the forest's 

freshest flavors 

written by Corinne Whiting 

WHILE MAINSTREAM CONSUMERS 

increasingly inquire where their food 

comes from, foragers have been paying 

attention all along. Getting out in the dirt 

and digging for one’s food has thrived 

here in the Pacific Northwest, beginning 

with the first native residents who lived 

off this rich land. At long last, others are 

taking note. 

“I think the growing interest stems from 

the local foods movement at its heart,” 

said Alex Winstead of Bellingham-based 

Cascadia Mushrooms. ”People want to 

connect with their region through the 

foods they eat. There is no better way to get 

in touch with the season and the place you 

are than to enjoy a foraged meal [gathered 

by] you and your friends and family.” 

Amy Augustine, communications 

director and forager at Seattle-based 

Foraged and Found Edibles, came across 

the hidden culture while working farmers 

markets in Seattle’s University District 

(Saturdays) and Ballard (Sundays). She 

encounters enthusiasts who range from 

her 4-year-old daughter to elderly Russian 

grandmothers expressing nostalgia for 

the art of foraging. “It feels good to go 

out and eat the food you pick,” she said. 

“It’s empowering, and you see how much 

work goes into it. … It gives a whole 

new appreciation.” 

Launched in 2001, Foraged and Found 

Edibles now supplies wild mushrooms, 

greens, berries and teas to hundreds 

of restaurants and markets around the 

country. Owner Jeremy Faber, a Culinary 

Institute of America alum, realized 

while working in prestigious Seattle-area 

kitchens like The Herbfarm that—instead 

of ordering mushrooms from 

really expensive sources—he 

could head into the woods to 

find them himself. 


home + design 

"People want to connect 

with their region through the 

foods they eat. There is no 

better way to get in touch 

with the season and the place 

than to enjoy a foraged meal 

[gathered by] you and your 

friends and family." 

—Alex Winstead 

Jeremy Faber, owner of Foraged and 

Found Edibles, holds a mushroom. 


Jeremy Faber, of Foraged and Found Edibles, scouts for mushrooms. The company supplies wild mushrooms, greens, berries and teas 

to hundreds of restaurants and markets around the country. 

He started this practice during an especially 

fruitful porcini year—soon he was delivering the 

surplus to chefs around town. He and his team 

believe in the culinary and medicinal benefits of 

this bounty. They don’t aim to be the first with 

each season’s forage. Instead, they wait for the 

right time to harvest so customers can receive 

the best and freshest. 

Mushrooms grow all over Washington, but 

their abundance depends on the season, the 

weather, that year’s snowpack, heat, rainfall and 

other environmental factors. Highly popular 

morels, for example, grow well the year after 

wildfires, so foragers covet affected regions. 

“It takes a lot of being in the woods, on the 

ground, scouting out patches of mushrooms and 

remembering for the following year," Augustine 

said. Chanterelles typically pop up around Mount 

Rainier in the summer and coastal Washington 

as summer progresses, while lobster mushrooms 

also thrive around Rainier. Foraging can consist 

of long days with early start times, miles-long 

hikes into the wilderness and overnight camping. 

Until recently relocating to a Georgetown 

space, Foraged and Found ran its Seattle 

warehouse out of Faber’s Phinney Ridge 

basement, which Augustine described as 

“smelling like a giant mushroom … the scent 

of Earth.” The expansion of the business means 

a deepening of cooperation with Lao and 

Cambodian foraging families, with whom the 

company has a long-standing relationship. 

Foraged and Found’s consistently popular items 

include morels and chanterelles, “the bread-and- 

butter” mushroom that every chef wants on the 

menu, plus stinging nettles in the spring and 

huckleberries in late summer. “[Faber] is always 

trying to add something new to the list—it’s very 

important to him,” Augustine said. 

Faber insists on sourcing indigenous goods 

whenever possible. Products are harvested solely 

in North America, with a focus on the Pacific 

Northwest. After expanding the business to New 

York and Boston, however, Forage and Found has 

also begun harvesting regionally in the Northeast. 

Loyal Seattle customers include James Beard 

Foundation Award-winning chefs Matt Dillon, 

Tom Douglas, Jerry Traunfeld and James Beardnominated 

Ethan Stowell. In addition to these 

restaurants, Foraged and Found’s bounty can 

be sampled at Seattle venues such as Spinasse, 

Altura, Copine and Harvest Beat. (In New York, 

clients include Gramercy Tavern, Daniel and 

Le Bernardin.) 

Augustine points those interested in foraging 

toward the Puget Sound Mycological Society 

(“one of the best in the country” for educational 

talks and fields trips). “Forage for wild edibles 

with caution, and learn from an experienced 

harvester,” Cascadia Mushrooms' Winstead 

advised. “The time you take to learn about and 

gather the wild foods growing in this region will 

bring you closer to the heart of our home.” 

Week after week in farmers markets, 

Augustine divines an emerging trend. “There’s 

a certain mysticism surrounding foraging. … 

I think there’s a real hunger for people to find 

that again.” 


home + design 

Washington Recipes 

Summer 

Mushrooms 

illustrated by Isaac Peterson 

Chanterelle rice from 

Seattle's Adana restaurant. 

Chanterelle Ragu 

SEATTLE / Cascina Spinasse 

Stuart Lane 

SERVES 2 

2 cups button chanterelles, cleaned 

Extra virgin olive oil 

1 large yellow onion, small diced 

½ cup of garlic, thinly sliced 

½ cup white wine 

1 ½ tablespoons butter, unsalted 

1 ½ teaspoons, finely chopped 

White wine vinegar, to taste 

Kosher salt and pepper, to taste 

Grated parmesan, to taste 

⅓ pound fresh pasta per person 

Lightly season the chanterelles with salt and 

pepper. Sear the chanterelles, in batches, 

in enough extra virgin olive oil to coat 

the bottom of a sauté pan to about 1/16 

of an inch, over medium-high heat. Don’t 

overcrowd the batches of mushrooms and 

sear them to golden brown, adjusting the 

heat as needed. Remove the mushrooms 

onto a separate plate. 

Once all mushrooms are seared, add 

more oil to the pan so it contains the same 

amount it did when you started. Lower 

the heat to medium and add the onions. 

Season with a little salt and pepper and 

stir occasionally until they’re dark brown. 

Add the garlic and cook until tender, about 

5 minutes. Add the chanterelles back into 

the pan with the onions and garlic, trying 

not to pour any excess oil back in the pan. 

Stir everything together and deglaze with 

the white wine. Cook over medium-low 

heat until all the wine is gone. 

Add the butter, herbs and vinegar, and 

toss with the cooked pasta. Season to 

taste with salt and pepper. Top with the 

parmesan cheese. 

Mushroom Medley 

LACEY / Ricardo’s Restaurant 

Rick Nelson 

Fresh, wild chanterelle, lobster, black 

trumpets and/or morels 

3 garlic cloves 

Fresh herbs 

Virgin olive oil 

Salt and pepper, to taste 

Clean mushrooms using a light brush and 

no water. Slice thin the garlic cloves and 

available fresh herbs. 

Toss together with enough top-quality 

virgin olive oil that the mushrooms have 

a sheen to them. Add salt and pepper 

to taste. 

Spreading the mushrooms on a pan as 

much as possible so they can lightly dry 

out as you roast them at 350 degrees for 5 

to 8 minutes. 

Let mixture rest at room temperature 

for 3 to 5 minutes. One option is to add a 

light drizzle of balsamic glaze. 

Chanterelle Rice 

SEATTLE / Adana 

Shota Nakajima 

4 cups rice 

1 cup mochi rice 

4 cups dashi 

1 cup chicken stock 

4 tablespoons soy sauce 

4 tablespoons mirin 

20 grams ginger (about 0.7 ounces) 

100 grams chanterelles (about 1/5 

pound) 

Mitsuba (Japanese parsley) for garnish 

Peel and mince ginger. Wash rice and 

mocha rice and put in rice cooker. Add 

all ingredients and cook in rice cooker for 

about an hour. Garnish with Mitsuba. 


home + design 

Uptic Studios 

Everything Old is New Again 

Two Spokane architects draw on old archetypes 

to create fresh new family homes 

written by Melissa Dalton 

A Modern Spin on the Farmhouse 

THE PALOUSE IS a large swath 

of farmland in Southeastern 

Washington, stretching well into 

Idaho on its eastern border and bound 

by the Snake River to the south. This 

is a vital agricultural region, primarily 

growing wheat and lentils, and the 

miles of rolling hills and fields have 

long lured landscape photographers 

hoping to capture its many moods. 

Architect Matthew Collins knows the 

scenery well. He grew up in Spokane 

and returned as an adult to open Uptic 

Studios, an architecture and interior 

design firm, and he appreciates the 

region's unsung appeal. "The Palouse 

is amazing," he said. "The fog hangs 

on it so it can look like you're on the 

ocean in the mornings, and it changes 

colors every season, depending on 

what's growing." 

In 2007, a childhood friend 

contacted Collins to design a home 

on 20 acres in Spokane County, in the 

northern reach of the Palouse. Collins' 

knowledge of the area made him a 

natural fit for his friend's endeavor. 

"He wanted [to build] something in 

keeping with the Palouse and the 

site," Collins said. "His family goes 

back generations in the Palouse, so 

he wanted it to feel like it could have 

been his great-grandfather's house." 

To that end, on the approach 

the home looks like a traditional 

farmhouse. Its silhouette is 

a simple rectangle topped 

with a pitched roof, a 


home + design 

Uptic Studios 

FROM LEFT The red siding lends the home 

a traditional look. Floor-to-ceiling windows 

with operable doors open the house up. 


home + design 

Jeff Fountain 

Jessa and Ben Greenfield's home in Spokane. 

common enough sight around the region. "In the Palouse, 

there's these long vistas and you see everything from a distance," 

Collins said. "So from a distance, we wanted this to look like 

it had been there forever." Bright red board and batten siding 

and a standing seam metal roof fulfills the illusion. Close up, 

however, it quickly becomes apparent how Collins tweaked 

tradition. In the east corner he "peeled back" walls, inserting 

floor-to-ceiling glass with operable doors on the first level. The 

wall is also stepped back under the eave to provide a generous 

overhang for a protected outdoor patio below. 

Inside, practicality reigns. A garage serves as a safe haven for 

cars and farm equipment as well as gear storage and a spot to 

rinse muddy dogs. Upstairs, a flexible floorplan enables the home 

to adapt to the owners' needs over time. "The walls pocket into 

each other so the rooms can be totally open, like loft space to the 

downstairs, or they can be closed down for more privacy," he 

said. That includes the option to create two separate bedrooms. 

A modest materials palette, including exposed plywood ceilings, 

whitewashed walls and concrete floors, lets the emphasis be on 

the landscape. 

Seasons in the Palouse can be characterized by extremes, such 

as 3 feet of snow in winter and 100-degree heat in the summer. 

The house keeps the owners in constant connection with the 

land no matter the time of year, whether they're admiring the 

fog from the comfort of the couch and the crackling wood 

stove, or opening the doors to the spring breeze. "The idea was 

to engage the site as much as we can so that they can experience 

the outdoors with a roof over their head," Collins said. "We 

created a little oasis in the middle of the farmland." 

A Classic Barn, Reinvented 

JESSA AND BEN GREENFIELD'S house in Spokane bears 

hallmarks of country life, from the chickens muttering in a 

nearby coop to the structure itself, which is shaped like two 

intersecting gambrel-roofed barns. But upon closer inspection, 

it’s clear how the couple has put their own spin on things. 

Take the obstacle course that pops up across the 9-acre 

property. It's an homage to the family's love of Spartan 

racing, a sport that mixes trail running with military-style 

training. "The land just lent itself to it perfectly," 

Jessa Greenfield said. Ben races on a pro team and 

produces podcasts about the sport, all under the 


home + design 

Jeff Fountain 

Jeff Fountain 

FROM LEFT The kitchen area of the Greenfields' home. Barn details and function are key elements of the home's design. 

umbrella of Ben Greenfield Fitness, the health-and-wellness 

business where both work. Last summer, they hosted how-to 

camps on the sport, at which their 9-year-old twin boys could 

have been instructors. "They love it when people come out 

here and they can show them all the tricks," Greenfield said. 

This is a lifestyle that was a long time in the making for the 

couple. They started saving money to buy land and build their 

dream home as soon as they married. Both grew up on acreage 

in Idaho—she on a farm in Moscow and he in Lewiston— 

and wanted to recreate that experience for their own family. 

In 2011, a property search led them to this plot near town, 

complete with a view of the prairie and easy access to the 

outdoor sports they love. 

When it came time to design their house, they had a clear 

vision. "We wanted to tear down a barn and rebuild it on our 

property," Greenfield said. "I grew up playing in old barns and 

have a lot of fond memories." In their search for an architect to 

undertake the task, they clicked with Jeff Fountain of Copeland 

Architecture. "He was open to the idea and willing to take on 

this unchartered challenge," Greenfield said. Unfortunately, 

the group soon discovered that local pole barns were not 

structurally sound enough to withstand a retrofit, so Fountain 

conceived alternatives. 

The resulting home artfully evokes classic barn details while 

accommodating a functional floorplan, which includes a 

double-height dining space on the main level, four bedrooms, 

and a gym, rec room and home office in the basement. Fountain 

sourced snow fencing from Wyoming for the exterior siding in 

a rain screen application. Then he had the same fencing skipplaned 

to clad the ceiling, and used lumber recovered from an 

old Palouse barn to fashion decorative trusses. "We wanted to 

have that sensation of looking up at the inside of a ceiling of a 

barn," Fountain said. 

Greenfield then blended textures and materials that could 

hold up to the active family. "We picked certain products 

purposefully, so we wouldn't have to live gently," she said. Her 

palette includes oak flooring, soapstone kitchen counters and 

a custom cedar dining table that will look better with knicks 

and dents. She doesn't mind the patina. "There's life in this 

house, and you can see it and feel it," she said. "It really fits 

our family." 


home + design 

Sliding barn doors cover 

bedroom windows in the 

Greenfields' home in Spokane. 

DIY: Sliding 

Barn Door 

Add barn chic 

to your home 

JEFF FOUNTAIN incorporated two 

sliding barn doors in the Greenfields' 

home to cover interior windows in 

two bedrooms. Sliding barn doors are 

a simple weekend project that can be 

customized to fit many different types 

of applications and home styles. We 

cover the basic guidelines. 

Need some inspiration? Check out our Pinterest 

board of barn doors online: 1889mag.com/barn 

1. Choose a door 

A simple browse through Pinterest 

reveals the many ways people have 

adapted this project to their homes. 

Do you want a single or double 

door? Do you prefer a contemporary 

aesthetic, like a chevron pattern, or 

do you want patina via a salvaged 

door? Have fun gathering inspiration, 

whether it's a traditional five-panel 

door for a streamlined look or an 

X-panel door similar to those found 

in the Greenfield home. Solid wood 

is preferable over hollow-core 

varieties, and make sure the door is 

wider than the opening it will cover, 

by at least 6 inches. 

2. Choose your hardware 

There is a wide-range of sliding 

door kits to choose from, and many 

companies now manufacture them. 

Opt for a color and style that will 

mesh with your home's existing 

hardware. We like the designs 

offered from the Gig Harbor-based 

Real Sliding Hardware. 

realslidinghardware.com 

3. Install the hardware and rail 

Always follow the instructions that 

come with your specific hardware kit. 

Basic steps will include first marking 

where the roller straps are to be 

installed on the door, being mindful 

of the clearance between the top of 

the door and the track. Pre-drill the 

holes for the bolts before fastening 

the straps. To ensure correct support 

for the entire system, fasten the rail 

brackets to the wall studs. If that's 

not an option, make sure the wall 

is reinforced properly wherever 

the brackets will be attached. After 

hanging the door, install a floor guide 

to ensure it stays on course. 


home + design 

Get the industrial 

farmhouse look 

Jessa integrated her love 

of the steampunk aesthetic 

into her home's decor with 

the Varick Chandelier from 

Restoration Hardware. 

Exposed pipes and fittings 

are shaped into a dramatic 

arrangement and Edison 

bulbs offer a moody glow— 

it’s a sleek option for a 

vaulted ceiling. 

The Greenfields' dining table was designed 

and built by Bart Templeman, now with Dare 

Designs, a custom furniture studio based in 

Spokane. Templeman specializes in using 

reclaimed wood, such as oak planks recovered 

from decommissioned train cars, to craft 

future family heirlooms. 

restorationhardware.com 

dare-designs.com 

SolForge bills itself as a 

"Modern Smithy," and is 

a group of professional 

blacksmiths, metalsmiths, 

fabricators and designers 

working in a studio outside 

Olympia. We like their 

series of handmade steel 

shelf brackets, wherein 

the texture wrought by the 

hammer's strike is visible. It's 

beauty and utility combined. 

etsy.com/shop/solforge 


mind + body 

Monica Lynne 

Personal trainer/wellness 

& nutrition coach 

FROM LEFT Monica Lynne guides her clients through a strength-training class at Technical Glass Product’s 

on-site gym. Lynne believes your plate —such as this mahi mahi salad—should always look like a rainbow so you 

get the vitamins and minerals you need. Lynne prepares her signature daily lunch at Heirloom Cookshop. 

Age: 47 

Born: Seattle 

Residence: Snoqualmie 

WORKOUT 

Monday: Lead 60-minute boot 

camp-style class, lead 45-minute 

core strength & stretch class 

Tuesday: Lead 60-minute boot 

camp-style class, 30 minutes on 

Stairmaster 

Wednesday: Lead 60-minute 

spin class, 15 minutes of ab work 

Thursday: Lead 60-minute boot 

camp-style class, 30 minutes on 

Stairmaster 

Friday: Lead 75-minute interval 

training class, lead 45-minute 

interval training and core class 

Saturday: 60-minute run 

Sunday: 60-minute run or 2- 

to 4-hour hike, depending on 

weather 

NUTRITION 

• All sources of proteins (eggs, 

meat, fish, dairy) 

• 2 fruits 

• 4-5 cups vegetables 

• High-fiber grains 

• Dark chocolate 

• Wine 

INSPIRATIONS 

• The way I feel after I work out 

• The way my body looks 

and feels when I work out 

consistently 

• Being a great role model of 

fitness and excellent nutrition 

• Nourishing my body and my 

kids so we all live long, healthy, 

disease-free lives 

• Taking control over my external 

form and internal health 

• Creating diverse and everchanging 

workouts to challenge 

my followers 

No Excuses 

Monica Lynne keeps training personal 

written by Sheila G. Miller 

photography by James Harnois 

MONICA LYNNE HAS no time for the 

next fad diet. Atkins? No thanks. Zone 

Diet? Nope. Paleo? Meh. 

“The biggest thing that I believe in is 

also the biggest reason why I don’t have 

a better following,” the personal trainer 

and wellness coach said. “I believe in 

eating everything.” 

Lynne, 47, owns Balancing Life LLC, 

offering help to clients as a wellness 

coach, personal trainer and nutrition 

consultant. She works as a fitness 

instructor at Mount Si Sports & Fitness 

and also works part-time as the member 

services manager for the Snoqualmie 

Valley Chamber of Commerce. 

For those not fortunate enough to 

have workouts built into their workdays, 

don’t despair—Lynne has thoughts on 

that, too. 

“Remember that getting the heart 

rate up every 24 hours is what keeps a 

metabolism revving at a higher level 

permanently,” she said. “So rising from 

bed even fifteen to twenty minutes 

earlier and doing a mini workout … can 

do a lot more than people realize.” 

But she stresses that for fitness and 

weight loss, food is more than half 

the battle. 

To that end, every weekend Lynne 

plans everything she and her family will 

eat from Sunday through Wednesday. 

That includes breakfast, lunch and 

dinner, as well as snacks. “And then I 

commit to it,” she said. “I’m not one 

of those people who allows myself to 

say, on a Tuesday when I’m really tired 

because I worked late, ‘I could easily get 

takeout or take the kids out to dinner.’ 

Nope. If the calendar was for us to eat 

sautéed Swiss chard with onions and 

grilled mahi mahi, I don’t veer 

from it ever. That’s what is 

on the menu and that’s what 

I’m making.” 


mind + body 

But Lynne doesn’t withhold all the 

treats—she eats dark chocolate every 

night and regularly drinks wine. “It’s 

figuring out your own moderation,” she 

said. “If you deprive yourself, if you say 

certain days you can’t have it, it’s all you 

think about.” 

Lynne didn’t start out in the health and 

wellness industry. After graduating from 

college, she became an accountant. But it 

didn’t stick—and when the controller of 

the company suggested Lynne not laugh 

quite so much, she knew it wasn’t the job 

for her. 

As she sought her next step, she routinely 

came back to her admiration for a high 

school health teacher who spoke frankly 

about sex education, and remembered 

how many of her Catholic college 

classmates were deeply uneducated on 

the subject. 

She earned a teaching certificate from 

Central Washington University and 

began teaching health. Meanwhile, she 

was inspired by a trainer at the Yakima 

YMCA. “I thought it looked fun to 

help someone get over the hurdle,” she 

said. “To show them how to get their 

health back.” 

Today, she teaches a group fitness 

class each morning and does every class 

she teaches so she knows how hard 

she’s pushing her students, then works 

one-on-one with a couple of nutrition 

clients. Lynne also runs online nutrition 

and fitness motivation groups. Her most 

recent was a six-week program—using a 

private Facebook page, Lynne provided a 

daily challenge or goal. 

Lynne changes her classes each week, 

but traditionally focuses on high-intensity 

interval training and strength training. “I 

like that feeling of being sore every day, so 

you can feel what your body is doing,” she 

said. “Everything I do is about keeping the 

heart rate up.” 

As a wellness coach, Lynne finds that 

most of her clients know what they’re 

supposed to do—eat healthy, get their 

heart rates up with exercise—but choose 

not to do it for “behavioral reasons.” Often, 

those reasons are rooted in an emotional 

issue like a parent who was tough on 

their weight or appearance, and that has 

hardened into a habit that’s hard to break. 

Most people, Lynne said, want quick 

results—she’s focused instead on longevity. 

“If you can’t do it every day for the rest of 

your life, why do it?” 

She’s also an advocate of self-care as 

a building block to success. “I really do 

a good job of making sure I take care of 

myself first,” Lynne said, noting she gets 

daily exercise, eats as cleanly as possible 

and makes sure to get eight hours of sleep 

each night. “I know if I’m taken care of 

and that I have those things done, then 

I’m fine with spending the rest of my day 

giving to others.” 


artist in residence 

Tod Marshall, 

Washington’s 

Poetry Road 

Warrior 

The state’s poet laureate 

wants you to memorize 

a poem 

Amy Sinisterra 

written by Alison Highberger 

HIS TRAVEL SCHEDULE is brutal—long days crisscrossing 

Washington’s 71,303 square miles by car and by plane, being 

away from home several days a week, laughable pay. But it’s all 

in the service of poetry, and being poet laureate of Washington 

for 2016 through 2018 is one of the best gigs Tod Marshall, 49, 

has ever had. 

As the fourth poet laureate in Washington history, and the 

first from the eastern part of the state, Marshall’s job is to build 

awareness and appreciation of poetry—including Washington’s 

legacy of poetry—through public readings, workshops, lectures 

and presentations around the state. That’s on top of his job as an 

English professor at Gonzaga University in Spokane. 

“It’s been wonderful. It’s an honor, and it’s a mission, is how I 

look at it. I want to get to every place that wants to hear about 

poetry, and that wants to share poetry,” Marshall said. “Serving 

as poet laureate has reinforced my beliefs about the power of 

poetry and the importance of finding words that matter. It’s 

something I believe very profoundly in.” 

By the time his term ends on January 31, 2018, Marshall 

said he’ll have participated in nearly 400 events, and put more 

than 25,000 miles on his car doing poetry readings, writing 

workshops, talks in libraries, youth centers, senior centers, 

museums, primary school classrooms, college campuses, 

bookstores, coffee shops, bars and correctional facilities. “I did 

one hike-and-write,” Marshall said. “I want to do more of those.” 

During his travels over the past year, Marshall occasionally 

encountered people who didn’t like poetry, but they were the 

exception. “I’ve been introduced a few times by teachers saying, 

‘You guys know I don’t like poetry, but that’s why he’s 

here to talk about it!’ But I think we do like poetry. 

Children love poems. Children love books in verse. I 

think it’s stunning the number of adults I encounter at 

38 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017


“ 

One of my mantras as poet laureate is, ‘Find words 

that matter to you and carry them around in your 

heart.’ Many other things will try to claim that word 

space—advertising jingles, movie dialogue. I want 

us to put words inside us that aren’t connected to 

turning us into consumers, or making us part of banal 

pop culture. Find words that help to figure 

out what it is to be human. 

events that say, ‘I didn’t think I liked poetry, 

but wow—this particular poem just blew 

me away,’” Marshall said. 

When he’s not teaching or writing 

his own poetry and essays at home in 

Spokane’s eclectic urban Peaceful Valley 

neighborhood along the Spokane River, 

Marshall and his wife, photographer and 

high school photography teacher Amy 

Sinisterra, are empty-nesters who find 

time for backpacking, camping and fishing. 

Marshall, born in Buffalo, New York, 

and raised in Wichita, Kansas, is the 

author of three collections of poetry, Dare 

Say (2002), The Tangled Line (2009), and 

Bugle (2014). He attended Siena Heights 

University, earned an M.F.A. degree from 

Eastern Washington University, and a 

Ph.D. from the University of Kansas. 

In the past year, Marshall held “Poetry for 

All” events all over Washington, “designed 

to engage participants’ imaginations, life 

histories and sense of empathy through 

language.” After a close reading of a few 

contemporary poems, participants used 

one as a model for writing the first draft of 

a poem. No previous writing experience 

is needed for any of Marshall’s poetry 

—Tod Marshall, Washington’s poet laureate 

workshops, and all are welcome. “There’s 

no judging here, and no sharing needed,” 

Marshall reassured those feeling timid at a 

poetry writing workshop at the Northwest 

Museum of Arts & Culture last fall. “Just 

making something can be liberating,” he 

reassured the group, adding, “As James 

Joyce wrote, ‘Writing is done in silence, 

exile and cunning!’” 

Everywhere he goes, Marshall encourages 

people to memorize a poem or a passage 

from a novel, or other words that resonate. 

“One of my mantras as poet laureate 

is, ‘Find words that matter to you and 

carry them around in your heart.’ Many 

other things will try to claim that word 

space—advertising jingles, movie dialogue. 

I want us to put words inside us that aren’t 

connected to turning us into consumers, 

or making us part of banal pop culture,” 

he said. “Find words that help to figure out 

what it is to be human. I’m as moved by 

the student that’s interested in memorizing 

the Gettysburg Address as I am someone 

who wants to memorize Emily 

Dickinson. That’s a great thing. 

” 

MORE INFORMATION 

BOOKS BY TOD MARSHALL: 

• Bugle (Canarium Books, 2014) 

• The Tangled Line (Canarium Books, 

2009) 

• Dare Say (The University of Georgia 

Press, 2002) 

• Range of the Possible (Eastern Washington 

University Press, 2002) is a collection 

of Marshall’s interviews with contemporary 

poets, and Range of Voices (EWU 

Press, 2005) is an anthology of work by 

the interviewed poets 

RESOURCES & POET LAUREATE INFO: 

Applications are now being accepted for 

the 2018-2020 Washington state poet 

laureate. More at humanities.org. 

For more information about Tod 

Marshall, visit wapoetlaureate.org. To 

invite him to speak to your group, email 

poet@humanities.org. 

For more information about poetry, 

explore the Poetry Foundation website, 

poetryfoundation.org. 



That’s way better than memorizing the 

keycodes for Zelda.” 

Marshall plans his own schedule, and tries 

to accept every invitation he gets through 

wapoetlaureate.org. He enjoyed holding 

workshops at Spokane’s Airway Heights 

Correctional Facility, and wants to talk to 

inmates at Coyote Ridge Corrections Center 

in Connell and Forks Correctional Facility 

on the Olympic Peninsula. 

“I think it’s an easily overlooked 

community. The men that signed up for 

the visit I did at Airway Heights really 

wanted to be there. They chose poetry as 

their recreational activity, and I think that’s 

important outreach,” Marshall said. 

Julie Ziegler, executive director of 

Humanities Washington, is proud of the 

work Marshall has done to publicize the 

power of poetry. “Tod has more than 

exceeded any expectations we have for 

someone who holds this position—and 

our expectations are high! His generosity 

of spirit continues to impress me,” she said. 

“Washington state has such a rich tradition 

of poetry, and poetry has the potential to be a 

strong community builder. In our fast-paced 

world, it’s a gift to be able to slow down, 

contemplate and write. Poetry encourages 

this. It is also a form of writing that is meant 

to be shared. Residents of states without a 

poet laureate miss out on these valuable 

opportunities for connection.” 

Many states have poet laureate 

programs. Washington’s is co-sponsored 

by Humanities Washington (funded by the 

National Endowment for the Humanities), 

and the Washington State Arts Commission, 

funded by the Washington state legislature. 

They provide a $10,000 per year stipend, 

along with a $2,000 annual program budget, 

and $1,500 to help defray travel costs. 

Marshall used his program budget to pay for 

the printing of WA129, a book of poetry he 

produced this spring. 

It’s an anthology of 129 poems that 

includes work from experienced poets 

and novices. Marshall sifted through 2,300 

entries to find one poem for every year of 

Washington statehood (1889) up to 2018, 

the end of Marshall’s term as poet laureate. 

During the last third of his term, Marshall 

plans to set up readings for poets who are in 

the WA129 anthology. In the meantime, it’s 

back on the road for poet Tod Marshall. 

Amy Sinisterra 

Tod Marshall works at his 

home desk with his dog Teddy. 

RESOLUTION: A POEM BY TOD MARSHALL 

To say thank you to the wind each day 

and to remember the strangeness of geese 

by the carrousel near the river that aggressively waddle for popcorn 

my three-year-old niece tosses in handfuls until she spooks 

at one big goose and hides behind my knees 

while I block the birds from pecking her tiny hand. 

You may say “some days don’t rate a thank you” 

(fill your list—mine includes Torture, War, Poverty, Disease, 

Achy Joints, Thinning Hair, Neglected Teeth, 

Lingering Issues From Childhood, and Student Loans 

held by the-gleeful-sounding-yet-sinister Sallie Mae). 

You know what I’m talking about. 

Or maybe you don’t. Maybe you walk the Buddha’s Path, 

climb Jacob’s Ladder to change God’s blown bulbs, 

live the Golden Rule like a blurred halo around your head, 

spinning glow of a carnival ride where kids never get sick, 

parents never get bored. I doubt it. I’ve tried enlightenment. 

I once saw seraphim strings connecting everything into a tender palm of light. 

That was mystical and intense or a nervous breakdown. 

Behind my legs, Jane says, “They’re mean,” 

and when we’re far enough away from the birds, 

I squat down and look her in the eyes and say, 

“Some of them might be mean, but mostly they’re hungry.” 

Over by the water, a huge grey goose hisses and flaps its wings. 

Jane looks up at me, nervous, 

hesitant to trust even her favorite uncle, 

who always sneaks her Skittles and Tootsie Rolls 

and never says no when she wants to play hide and seek, 

and then she smiles (thank you), and I extend my hand (thank you), 

and she takes three fingers, and we walk away from geese, 

away from the dark river, from tigers and horses 

that chase each other forever in a circle of jangly light. 

To watch Tod Marshall 

read the poem, go to 

1889mag.com/poet 

40 1889 WASHINGTONS’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2017

Shane Young 

STARTUP 44 

WHAT’S GOING UP 46 

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 47 

MY WORKSPACE 48 

GAME CHANGER 50 

pg. 44 

SUPrents is changing the paddleboarding world.

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startup 

A New Kind of Board Meeting 

SUPrents brings paddleboarding to the masses 

written by Mackenzie Wilson 

photography by Shane Young 

FROM LEFT Scott Allen pumps up a 

SUPrents board while daughter Amelia 

helps. Scott and his wife, Morgan, 

paddle their children, Amelia and 

Parker, for an evening ride. 

PADDLEBOARDS. EVERYBODY wants 

one, but nobody wants to deal with 

wrestling one from the garage, to the top of 

the car, onto the water and back. In 2015, 

Scott Allen, the co-owner of SUPrents, 

was right there with every other struggling 

vacationer. “I was in Maui and we rented a 

paddleboard. It was old and about $85 for 

the day. They dropped it off at our hotel 

which was nice, but then we were stuck,” 

Allen said. Logistically, the rental was a 

nightmare. Allen didn’t plan how he was 

going to get the board from his hotel room 

to the beach and remembers thinking, 

“There’s got to be a better way.” 

After hearing about a similar experience 

from his longtime friend, Eric Lindstrom, 

the two flirted with the idea of a business 

shipping inflatable paddleboards to 

people. Inflatable boards meant they could 

be easily carried to the water, pumped up 

on the spot and put away afterward. It 

also meant they could be shipped across 

the country. “The inflatables have gotten 

lighter and stiffer. They tend to paddle like 

a regular paddleboard, but they’re a lot 

more durable and a little more forgiving,” 

Allen said. “I think 95 percent of people 

just want to get out and experience the 

outdoors and paddle around. If you want 

to race or surf, then you’re going to want a 

hard paddleboard.” 

Allen and Lindstrom dove in. They 

bought a fleet of inflatable paddleboards 

and opened up rentals to the entire country 

through their website SUPrents.com. “It 

would have been smart to limit it to 

Washington and Oregon where we live, 

but we assumed all of our business would 

be in Hawaii,” Allen said. 

Since day one, SUPrents has offered 

free shipping. “It doesn’t matter where 

the paddleboard is going. It’s free shipping 

both ways,” Allen said. The team often gets 

emails asking if what they’re offering is too 

good to be true. “I think some people are 

taking a leap of faith with us,” Allen said. 

“They’re wondering how the 

shipping system actually works.” 

After setting up the rental online, 

the board is shipped straight to 


startup 

the client puts the paddleboard back in the 

box it arrived in and slaps a pre-paid label 

on it. SUPrents sets up the pickup. 

The paddleboards for rent range from 

10 feet to the Megalodon—a 50-pound, 

15-foot-long inflatable paddleboard that 

carries up to seven adults. The startup also 

plans to offer kayaks the same way in the 

near future. “Some people are hesitant to 

try standup paddleboarding, but their kids 

want to, so to be able to rent everything 

in one place, that’s the ultimate goal,” 

Allen said. Last spring, a public school 

in Chicago rented thirty-five boards for 

P.E. class. The opportunity to rent in bulk 

is something the pair hopes to explore 

more. Allen and Lindstrom understand 

not everyone has thousands of dollars to 

purchase a paddleboard. “You don’t need 

to spend that kind of money on something 

that you’re going to use once a summer,” 

Allen said. SUPrents paddleboards can be 

rented for as few as two days in California 

and the Pacific Northwest, and up to two 

weeks across the country. Renting one 

10- to 12-foot board for two weeks costs 

between $229 and $289 and the boards can 

be paired with automatic pumps and life 

jackets. “We felt like we were being gouged 

when we were renting and we didn’t want 

to do that to other people,” Allen said. 

Not only are their homes in Spokane 

and Bend, Oregon, overflowing with 

paddleboards, they’re also overflowing 

with pride. “When we get orders, we give 

a little virtual high five,” Allen said. One 

of their favorite things is to see where the 

board is headed. “Even though it costs 

more to ship to the East Coast, it’s always 

kind of exciting to see an order from 

there,” he said. Allen puts a pin on a map 

of the United States on each place they 

send a board. SUPrents primarily ships to 

the West Coast, but orders have started to 

spread across the country. “It’s an amazing 

feeling every time we get to put a new pin 

on the map,” Allen said. “Our paddleboards 

are going to places I’ve never even been. It 

blows my mind.” 


what’s going up? 

Jasmine Donovan 

Familiar Favorites 

New restaurants from old friends 


DICK’S DRIVE-IN has been around since 1954, plying 

Washingtonians with classic burgers and thick shakes. 

The Seattle staple expanded from two venues in the 

1950s to five by the mid-70s. In 2011, the burger joint 

expanded into Edmonds, and this year announced an 

online contest to determine its next expansion. More 

than 170,000 voted, and Dick’s announced it will build 

its next restaurant in south King County, no farther 

south than Federal Way. 

Other well-loved spots around the state are also 

planning expansions. Chaps Diner and Bakery in 

Spokane is expected to open a small coffee and pastry 

shop called Paper and Cup in the Kendall Yards 

neighborhood. 

Back in Seattle, Analog Coffee is working on a graband-go 

breakfast and lunch spot on Thomas Street 

with a big outdoor patio—delicious drip coffee will 

remain a staple. 

A new Dick’s Drive-In is planned 

for south King County. 


what i’m working on 

Chasing Birds in Washington 

Alex Patia is Washington’s top birder 

interview by Nick Engelfried 

photography by Alex Patia 

FOR ALEX PATIA, birding isn’t just a hobby—it’s a way of life. On 

any given weekend, he’s likely to be driving hundreds of miles to 

sites across Washington, searching for the rarest, newest and 

most elusive birds spotted in the state. So far this year he has 

seen 297 bird species in Washington, earning the title of state’s 

“top birder” from the widely used website eBird. Patia’s goal is to 

see more than 350 Washington birds by year’s end, a personal 

record. He’s closing in on it fast. 

How did you become a serious birder? 

My very first memory is being in my 

aunt and uncle’s backyard in California, 

and them having me hold out a peanut 

so a jay would come take it from my 

hand. I’ve always been fascinated by 

birds, but I didn’t get really serious until 

2013. I was visiting my folks in Illinois 

and saw thousands of snow geese on a 

nearby lake. I wasn’t used to seeing these 

spectacular birds there and realized 

there are so many birds I just hadn’t 

been noticing. I started using eBird to 

track sightings of rare birds. I saw an 

alert for a sage thrasher, a species you’d 

hardly ever see in Illinois. I went looking 

and found it in the middle of an RV park. 

That gave me the bug to start finding 

odd birds, chasing down rarities and 

keeping my own “life list.” 

What motivates you to spend your free 

time traveling and looking for birds? 

I am motivated by finding new birds for 

the year, and every once in a while a lifer 

I’ve never seen before. Four times this 

year I drove to Mansfield hoping to see 

sage grouse. Three times I struck out. 

The fourth time I finally got to see this 

elusive, endangered bird in Washington, 

and that made it all worth it. The other 

thing that keeps me motivated is 

meeting other birders. There’s a whole 

community of people you run into 

again and again, showing up where rare 

birds have been reported on opposite 

ends of Washington. 

What’s your most exciting bird 

sighting this year? 

The coolest for me personally was an 

American bittern in Skagit Flats. It’s a 

small wading bird that blends in almost 

perfectly with vegetation and is very 

difficult to spot. I was watching the 

cattails, and suddenly they seemed to 

come to life. A bird’s head poked out 

of the leaves and it started strutting 

through the marsh. 

How does birding affect the way you 

see the world? 

I’m never not birding—which can be a 

problem when I’m talking with friends 

and coworkers. I’ll be focused on the 

conversation but also notice a really 

cool bird flying overhead. Once you’ve 

honed in and begun noticing what’s 

around you, it’s hard to turn that off. It 

opens your eyes to a world you didn’t 

realize was there all along. 

What’s your advice for people who 

want to get into birding? 

First, buy a good field guide—I 

personally like the one by David Allen 

Sibley. Look through it, get 

comfortable with 

what the birds look like, and you’ll start 

realizing you’ve seen lots of them. It’s a 

great feeling when a picture from a book 

becomes a real, tangible thing. Next, 

get a pair of binoculars and start using 

them. Beyond that, spend time outside. 

You’ll start recognizing the common 

birds and when rarer species show up, 

they’ll stand out. If you don’t have time 

to go birding regularly, get a bird feeder 

and hang it outside your window. The 

birds will come to you. 

What’s next for you? 

I’m planning my biggest birding trip yet 

for the year. It’ll take me to the east side 

of the Cascades, down to Walla Walla, 

out through the Columbia Gorge to the 

coast. One great thing about birding in 

Washington is there’s an incredible array 

of habitats on public lands, so seeing lots 

of very diverse birds is inevitable. Even on 

a bad birding day you’ll see interesting, 

cool things. Almost every day birding, I 

see something new and unexpected. 

Sage thrasher 


my workspace 

My Workspace 

Goldendale 

Observatory 

Troy Carpenter’s 

unconventional dream job 

written by Lindsay McWilliams 

photography by Austin Smith 

Everything changed for Troy Carpenter the day he 

stopped by the Goldendale Observatory in 2013. 

While visiting a friend in The Dalles, he decided to 

check out the telescopes on the other side of the 

river—and he left with a job. He packed his life in 

Philadelphia into his Volvo station wagon and 

drove cross-country to become an assistant to the 

administrator at the observatory. 

Perched on the Columbia River 

Gorge, the Goldendale Observatory 

was built in 1973 for the purpose of 

housing a 24-foot Reflector telescope 

built by four amateur astronomers. 

Struggling to keep it running with 

private funding, the site was sold 

to Washington State Parks in 1981 

for just $100,000. Today, it’s the 

only known state park observatory, 

housing one of the largest public 

telescopes not used for research. 


my workspace 

“It’s a very nontraditional job, and I like it 

that way,” Carpenter said. Before moving 

west, he ran a training center teaching 

others how to build wind turbines—a 

stable and comfortable profession. But 

when the opportunity arose, he jumped 

at something unconventional. Some call 

it a dream job, but Carpenter says it’s not 

so out of reach. 

Now the observatory administrator 

himself, Carpenter spends his days 

maintaining the ten-plus telescopes 

onsite, teaching daily classes to 

the public and pointing out “crowd 

pleasers” in the sky, like Saturn, 

Jupiter or the Orion Nebula, to 

his students. 

“I left everything for a job I knew I’d be good 

at, and other people can do it, too. Stop 

looking at me. You can do it, too.” 


game changer 

Cameron Zegers 

Scoops and Tunes 

Molly Moon’s puts its 

scoopers first 

written by Naomi Tomky 

AN ICE CREAM SHOP might not be 

the first place you expect to pick up a 

new record, but the endless lines outside 

Molly Moon’s Homemade Ice Cream 

serve as the first indication that this is 

not your average scoop shop. Almost 

a decade into cementing its place as 

Seattle’s beloved dessert denizen, the 

eight-store chain offers its team benefits 

that rival tech companies and recently 

added a unique perk—a record label just 

for employees. 

In April, Mooncrew Records, a 

moniker that comes from the company’s 

nickname for its staff, launched with its 

first vinyl album, Keepers by Cataldo—a 

band that includes long-time employee 

Eric Anderson. “Ice cream and music go 

together,” explained Molly Moon Neitzel, 

the company’s founder. Before diving into 

the dessert world, Neitzel worked for a 

music-based nonprofit and has kept alive 

her passion for music and helping others 

in her ice cream shops. 

“I only wanted to start [Molly Moon’s] if 

I ran it in a way I could feel good about,” she 

said of the roots and origin of the company’s 

mission “to make the world better, one 

scoop at a time.” That mission is why all 

employees working twenty hours or more a 

week get complete health care coverage for 

themselves and any kids, twelve weeks of 

paid family leave, secure scheduling and a 

slew of other perks rarely seen in an industry 

famous for being everyone’s first summer 

job. And there are other perks never seen in 

any other job, like an employee record label. 

Anderson is Molly Moon’s most tenured 

employee, having started with the company 

in 2008 as a scooper and moving up through 

the years. The company’s flexibility and 

support meant that he wasn’t forced to 

choose between band and job, as so often 

happens, and in his time there, his boss 

fell in love with his music—literally and 

figuratively: Neitzel actually got married 

with one of Cataldo’s tunes playing in the 

background. 

In searching for more ways to support 

employees and the local music scene— 

besides just employing musicians from 

bands such as the Long Winters and 

Mt. St. Helens Vietnam Band—Neitzel 

came up with the idea of filling a hole 

in Cataldo’s repertoire: After spending 

their money making CDs and on a tour, 

the band was unable afford to release a 

vinyl. She got in touch with friends at 

record labels, who offered guidance and 

helped her sort out the process, using 

Anderson and his band as the test case 

and first release. Neitzel and Mooncrew 

records will soon open applications to any 

employee to be the second release for the 

company in 2018. 

In the meantime, the record is for sale at 

the scoop shops, including the company’s 

newest location in Columbia City, along 

with the most recent creative flavor for the 

shops: blue corn chocolate chip, based on 

Neitzel’s favorite cookie from her college 

town in Montana. 


iWONDER IF most of America 

thinks of Mount St. Helens as 

one of my daughters does: burnt 

bacon as a result of the 1980 

eruption. “It’s all going to look the 

same,” she insisted, “brown and 

charred.” The area surrounding 

the active volcano covers 

millions of acres—many of which were 

effectively untouched by natural disaster. 

On Mount St. Helens’ southeast side, 

Gifford Pinchot National Forest is one of 

the country’s oldest. It forms a deep green 

apron around Mount St. Helens, stretching 

more than 2,000 square miles, and the forest 

sopped up America’s most destructive 

volcanic eruption in recent times. This 

young volcano got a 1,300-foot trim when 

its peak became a crater. Still, you stand 

there in awe and look at it as a heavyweight 

who has just stepped from the ring, 

beat on but unbeaten. 


on the 

road 

again 

TRAMPING THROUGH 

MOUNT ST. HELENS 

AND GIFFORD PINCHOT 

NATIONAL FOREST 

IN THE AIRSTREAM 

written and photographed by Kevin Max 

illustrated by Allison Bye 


e 

agle Cliff campground 

on the southeast 

shoulder of the 

mountain is threeand-a-half 

hours from 

Seattle, two hours 

from Portland and 

four hours from Bend, 

where we’re starting. 

On the longest day 

of the summer, you can snake past Mount Hood, 

across the Columbia River and into the Gifford 

Pinchot National Forest up Meadow Creek Road to 

Curley Creek Road, and still beat the golden hour of 

photography. 

Leave a little extra time to amble into Walking Man 

Brewery in Stevenson. The laidback railroad sidehouse 

with beers of various well-crafted hoppiness pulls on 

a traveler’s taste buds. The heat that day in Stevenson 

reached 92 degrees. Even the shade couldn’t stop it 

from getting behind my eyeballs. We needed to get 

into the trees. 

On this weekend, we fled our teen daughters, 

driving deep into the woods with mountain bikes 

and running shoes and a dog. We booked the 

first night at a campground that accepted trailers, 

just to get our bearing. The next night, we’d 

freelance it. 

Our dog, Guinness, is a sled-pulling breed who 

can, and yearns to, tug like an ox for miles on end. 

Snow makes him happier and his eyes wilder, but 

trails, any trails, are his understanding of the verb 

“go.” He looked out the window and saw trees getting 

bigger, rivers getting louder, trails more abundant 

and a jitterbug of wild overcame his car manners, 

compelling him to whimper to bypassing cedars, 

trails and deer. “Ohhhhh, look at that. Ohhhhh, did 

you see that,” his cavity shaking this sound from 

deep inside. 

Curly Creek winds narrowly through Western red 

cedars to Eagle Cliff campground. Under a canvas of 

cedars and pines, this thatch-roof den is 10 degrees 

cooler than the beer garden in Stevenson. A general 

store with basics and showers and laundry make 

Eagle Cliff a good stop over for a night to clean up 

on longer trips. There are no hookups for trailers, 

but other amenities abound. Out the back of the 

campground is a logging road steep enough that you 

focus on your breath and footwork until you get to 

the top and look back down over Swift Reservoir, a 

deep-hued blue past a field of purple foxglove and 

white daisies with lemondrop centers. Click. 

Sarah was taken by the beauty. The bald eagles 

circling overhead, she said, were a surprising treat. I 

felt bad pointing out that they were actually vultures 

and probably eyeing our dog as carrion. 

Back in camp, a decades-old Land Rover pulled 

into the slip next to us. Next to them was another 

vintage Land Rover with a car-top tent. Across from 

them were more Land Rovers, some with kids, some 

with dogs, some with kids and dogs. 

Our first night called for something spicy and 

hearty—burgers stuffed with diced jalapeños and 

tiny chunks of cheddar. I wanted to have made those 

myself, but, in a rush to get out of town, I relied on 

the kindness of my butcher. Sarah made coleslaw and 

we garnished with veggie chips, another clever way 

to offset beef with vegetables. We popped a 22-ounce 

of Walking Man’s Imperial IPA and declared that that 

meal was the best. 

We read and wrote for the first time together like 

digital nomads with everything in the world we 

needed right there. We soon fell asleep—gone 

to a soft and safe place in the Flying Cloud. 

We read and wrote for the first time together 

like digital nomads with everything in the 

world we needed right there. We soon 

fell asleep—gone to a soft and safe place 

in the Flying Cloud. 


Lake Merwin in the Gifford 

Pinchot National Forest. 


Sarah and Guinness on a hike. 


Lower Falls on the Lewis River. 

morning came 

with a heat 

warning. 

Temperatures 

would reach 

beyond 100 

degrees. We 

were up early 

waiting for 

the coffee to 

hit our brains and make sense out of this impending 

heat warning. Before 7 a.m., we were out the door for 

a run along the Lewis River. 

Lewis River is a 96-mile-long tributary of the 

Columbia River to the south and has three dams that 

form Swift Reservoir, Yale Lake and Lake Merwin. 

Today, we’d see about 4 miles twice of this river in an 

out-and-back on soft trails. Rushing water pushed a cool 

breeze down the banks and along the trail. Overhead, 

a thick canopy blocked most of the sun, creating a 

partially lit diorama of green and gold beneath it all. The 

only people we encountered were a couple camping 3 

miles in from the trailhead in what was probably one 

of the finest tent spaces cleared and flat along the Lewis 

River. I felt like I could have run for hours. 

On our way out, close to the trailhead, we spied 

an isolated and unoccupied camping spot about 50 

feet deep that would perfectly suit our pursuits for 

the next twenty-four hours. On Forest Road 9039 

around milepost 20 and less than a quarter mile from 

the trailhead, there it was—a natural u-shaped cutout 

with a firepit near the back and nothing but trees all 

around. You could hear the Lewis River across the 

road and down a steep embankment. As far as trailer 

camping goes, this was a solid eight. If the river were 

diverted across the gravel road to our side to whisper 

there at night, there might be no better place. With 

this discovery, we felt like we had arrived as trailer 

campers in the backcountry. 

We relocated, dressed and set out for the town of 

Cougar for re-supply and dinner items. We drove past 

it, before realizing we had hit town center. A 1990 

census, the last official count, put Cougar population 

at 122. That seemed about right. Shopping for food 

comes down to two country stores across the street 

from each other, one of which doubles as a gas station. 

Both sold auto essentials. Creativity finds its honest 

beginnings in scarcity. Sarah walked up and down the 

few aisles of one store before connecting the dots— 

eggs, bacon, Tillamook cheese, noodles, an 

onion—spaghetti carbonara! And Washington 

cherries for dessert. 


You can hear the falls before you can see 

them through a dense forest and down 

a steep cliff. But seeing it for the first time 

is glee of discovery, all heightened 

and tickling where your hair makes 

contact with your head. 

we drove aimlessly 

but with purpose, 

to find good 

views of Mount 

St. Helens and 

to see what Ape 

Cave was all 

about. Ape Cave 

is, reportedly, the 

longest lava tube 

in North America at 2 ½ miles long. At this time of 

year, its popularity spills out beyond the parking lot 

to cars lining the road approaching the lot. On a day 

already hotter than 90 degrees, who could blame the 

parade marching into a cool cave? 

We decided to head back and scout a mountain 

bike loop for tomorrow. Originally, we thought this 

trip would be based around a seminal mountain bike 

ride that included 26 miles and 5,000 feet of climbing. 

The snowpack above 4,800 feet was a reminder of a 

big winter just behind us and a deterrent for that ride. 

From our camp, we surmised that we could ride 9 

miles of forest road upriver to a Lewis River trailhead, 

duck in there and ride back along the trail we had run 

that morning. 

Country store carbonara, Sarah called it, was really 

good that night. Of course, being in the woods is a 

drug that alters your ability to accurately review and 

rate food. For the first time, we prepared everything in 

the kitchen and ate together at the dining table. In three 

more years, we would be empty-nesters. If these were 

notes for that period, we were going to test well. 

Lower Falls on the Lewis was just beyond the point 

where we’d duck into the woods tomorrow on bikes. 

As the sun faded over a distant ridge, we jumped in the 

truck and headed to Lower Falls for the golden hour of 

photography. We arrived at the day-use parking just as 

a photographer was packing up for the evening. He did 

not make eye contact. Had we missed the perfect shot? 

You can hear the falls before you can see them 

through a dense forest and down a steep cliff. But 

seeing it for the first time is glee of discovery, all 

heightened and tickling where your hair makes contact 

with your head. A hundred feet down, the river spread 

to accommodate a wide multi-tiered rock façade. 

The water got thinner there to spread like blonde 

hair coming out of a ponytail and spill over its edge. 

It doesn’t matter how many people have seen Lower 

Falls—it has the keen ability to make it seem as though 

you are the first. The light was perfect. 

Tomorrow’s mountain bike ride was deceptively 

technical and challenging. No one who saw me in a 

T-shirt and yesterday’s technology would consider me 

a top rider. God knows, you can spend a lot of money 

and end up with the social stigma of what Australians 

call “all the gear and no idear.” I don’t have the money 

for that status. My wife has better gear and more of 

an idear. 

At one point during the ride, my front tire slipped left 

and headed off the trail and down a steep embankment. 

My body followed, cartwheeling. The water was 

another 30 feet down, and I hoped not to make it that 

far. For years, I had considered of what it would be like 

to have my bike plunge off a trail and down a hillside. 

Maybe I gazed too long into the eyes of existentialism 

in college courses, but I knew it would happen one day 

and that I would have to take responsibility for all of 

humanity with my actions. Existentialism is as somber 

as its Danish inventor—when you make a decision it is 

a model for all of humanity and all of eternity. 

I stretched my body and bike to make for a flatter 

surface that would be harder to cartwheel for all of 

eternity. Suddenly I stopped, legs long out below me 

in a mess of prickly brambles. “Oh honey! Are you all 

right?” came from somewhere above me. 

I sat up slowly, breathed deeply and took in the 

beauty of the Lewis below me and the smell of the red 

cedar all around me. 


eat. drink. play. 

GUIDE 

eat 

• Walking Man Brewery, Stevenson, WA 

• Camp store at Eagle Cliff campground 

• Country stores in Cougar, WA 

drink 

• Walking Man Brewery, Stevenson, WA 

play 

• Run, bike, hike the scenic Lewis River Trail 

• Mountain bike on miles of trails 

• Take the kids to Ape Cave 

• Take a dip in eddies of the river 

• Explore the waterfalls 

historical note 

Gifford Pinchot National Forest is named for Gifford Pinchot, 

the first chief of the United States Forest Service, who served 

from 1905 until his firing in 1910. He is said to have coined 

the term “conservation ethic.” 

must-see/must-do 

• Visit the majestic Lower Falls 

• Hike, run, bike Lewis River Trail 

• Visit Ape Cave with kids 

• Drink a Washington wine or beer at fireside 

• Make your own version of Country Store Carbonara 

simple country store carbonara 

SERVES 4 

1 package of spaghetti 

4 eggs 

1 cup of grated cheddar cheese 

1 onion diced 

6 pieces of bacon, cooked 

Pepper to taste 

Boil water and add spaghetti. While water is 

heating, cook 6 pieces of bacon until nearly 

crispy. Remove, blot and set aside. Grate 1 cup 

of cheddar and set aside. Dice one onion and 

cook on medium heat in bacon pan with bacon 

grease until semi-transparent. Drain noodles 

when they are al dente. Scramble four eggs 

in a glass and pour over noodles. Add bacon, 

onion and cheese and toss until they are evenly 

distributed. Serve on plates or in bowls or 

camp cups. 

pairings 

WINE 

• Red: Saviah Cellars 

2014 Barbera 

• White: KVa Piano 

2016 Sauvignon Blanc 

BEER 

• Walking Man IPA 

• Everybody’s 

Brewing Mountain 

Mama Pale Ale 


CANADA 

USA 

Point Roberts 

The place at the 

end of the line 

written by James Sinks 

photography by Michael Schoenholtz 

FROM MINNESOTA TO THE PUGET SOUND, 

the United States-Canadian border traces the 

49th parallel, stretching some 2,500 miles. The 

boundary doesn’t stop when it hits the water. It 

extends over the waves to the Georgia Straight. In 

doing so, an oversight in the 1849 Oregon Treaty, the line 

clips the end of Canada’s Tsawwassen Peninsula, creating 

a 5-square-mile lobe of U.S. soil, an island offshore. 

This is Point Roberts, Washington. The place at the 

end of the line. 


CANADA 

USA 

FORMALLY AN EXCLAVE, the Point—as 

locals call it—is more than a geopolitical oddity 

where a twenty-four-hour border crossing 

makes it virtually a gated community. It’s 

also a miniature slice of small-town America, 

with the easygoing rhythm of a place where 

nobody’s in a hurry to get much of anywhere. 

Of course, it helps that there’s not a long 

way to anything in Point Roberts, which is 

crisscrossed by tree-shaded roads on which 

you’re just as likely to see horses and rabbits 

as cars. 

Eagles bank overhead. With water on three 

sides, windswept beaches complete almost 

every vista. 

To drive here, bring your passport and 

your best manners—you’ll need 

to clear two border 

crossings with security officers who do not 

like funny jokes, then drive 25 miles through 

Canada. (Two days a week, you can catch a 

puddle jumper flight to the grass airstrip 

from Bellingham.) 

The northern neighbor of Point Roberts is 

the Canadian municipality of Delta, a bedroom 

community for Vancouver, B.C., with a ferry 

terminal, strip malls, Starbucks and rows of 

suburban houses. 

Across the border there’s no such bustle. 

A recent headline from the Point Roberts 

monthly newspaper: “It’s time to fancy up 

those rusty mailboxes.” 

Point Roberts is home to 1,300 people and 

2,050 housing units, mostly on larger lots. Most 

of those are vacation homes on septic systems, 

which cuts down the ability to develop. 

For visitors—the population triples come 

summer—the place has rental houses and 

marina slips, a liquor store with 6-foothigh 

stacks of Bud Light, a handful of 

eateries, yoga, a campground, a bed 

and breakfast, and “Boundary marker 

one,” the circa-1861 marble obelisk 

designating the westernmost land point 

on the 49th parallel. 

At the marker, you also get a sense 

of the nonexistent local hysteria about 

border control—no wall here, just a foottall 

yellow curb that might stop a 

bouncing basketball. 


Maple Beach at Point Roberts. 

BEFORE THE ARRIVAL in 1792 of explorer George 

Vancouver, who named the point after his friend, Captain 

Henry Roberts, the area was a salmon fishing hub known as 

Chelhtenem by the region’s Salish tribes. The name translates 

as “racks for drying seafood.” 

At Lily Point, at the base of sandy cliffs on the southeast 

corner of the peninsula, the catch would sometimes number 

10,000 fish a day, according to the historical society. The 

forested bluff and beach is now a park with hiking trails and 

nesting bald eagles and herons. 

Today, canneries and the mill are gone, and the economy 

rides on tourism and cross-border bargain hunting for fuel, 

booze, groceries when the Canadian dollar is strong, and 

parcel shipping. 

There are four gas stations clustered off Tyee Drive, 

with prices 30 percent lower than in Delta with fuel 

sold by the liter, and shipping businesses to help 

customers avoid surcharges for international delivery. 

At the market, rows of rental mailboxes sit alongside the 

refrigerated cheese. 

It’s the closest place to Vancouver that you can get a medium 

rare burger, thanks to more strict Canadian culinary standards. 

And depending on the time of year, Point Roberts also has the 

warmest beach in the state. 

When the tide pulls back at Maple Beach, it exposes sandy 

tidal flats that bake in the sun—when there is sun. The shallow 

pools and returning tide can approach 80 degrees. During 

minus tides, you can walk to a border marker a half-mile 

offshore in Boundary Bay. 

There’s so little crime—a border crossing does tend to cut 

down on unwanted visitors—that the recent theft of five 

lavender plants from the U.S. Post Office caused a stir. 

The relative isolation and security checkpoint has bred a local 

brand of folklore: that the Point is teeming with people in the 

federal witness protection program. 

Bennett Blaustein chortles at the suggestion. “A ridiculous 

rumor,” he said, rolling his eyes. He’s a volunteer for the local 

park board, and a recent California transplant who launched 

a local community access TV channel, something he 

studied in college before life got in the way. 


THE POINT FEELS A BIT like Cape 

Cod-meets-Midwest, with weathered 

cedar-sided houses framed against the 

ocean, next to the occasional singlewide 

and RV. 

While there’s appetite for some 

economic development, there is no 

interest in becoming the suburb next door. 

“It’s heaven,” said Darlene Perritt, 

smiling from behind the register at the 

Shell station that doubles as the local 

coffee roaster and FedEx shipping office. 

This is one of her four service jobs in the 

Point, something she said is not atypical. 

There’s no high school. Students 

attend the local schoolhouse until third 

grade and then are bussed 45 minutes 

to the public schools in Blaine. There’s 

a sneeze-and-you’ll-miss-it downtown 

with community center, art gallery, bike 

rental/bong shop (but nothing to smoke), 

and the Saltwater Café. 

Saltwater Café owner Tamra Hansen 

came to the Point with a former boyfriend 

to escape the bustle of the Eastern seaboard, 

where they opened and marketed luxury 

restaurants. The boyfriend in the rearview 

mirror, she founded her charming eatery 

and coffee shop a year ago. 

Tranquility keeps people in the Point, 

she said, but she also likes to joke about 

how it attracts those who want to escape. 

“We’re out here,” she grinned, “because 

we’re not all there.” 

Past the 8-foot Statue of Liberty 

on Gulf Road at the marina, general 

manager Jacquelyne Everett is trying to 

lure additional boats—the marina can 

accommodate 917 and is two-thirds 

full—and hopefully bigger ones. She’s 

a Canadian transplant who married an 

American and settled here, making her a 

“duallie,” or dual citizen. 

The port is also home to the Compass 

Rose restaurant, where you’ll find a full 

bar, seafood, and Darlene Perritt in the 

evenings. Oh yes, and burgers. 

Everett said the marina’s new 

owners—investors from China—see 

potential in bigger yachts, which will 

usher in more jobs. Chinese investors 

also recently bought the golf course with 

plans to fix it up. 

“There is money coming in and people 

appreciate that,” she said. “But there is 

also some discomfort.” 

Thirty years ago, Nick Kiniski was an 

up-and-coming professional wrestler on 

the WWF tour, following in his father’s 

career path. But after a falling out on 

the tour, Kiniski stowed his singlet and 

bought a tavern at the end of America. 

It’s known as Kiniski’s Reef. 

AT TOP Tamra Hansen is the owner of the Saltwater Café. She moved to the area to escape the bustle of the 

Eastern seaboard. RIGHT Houses in Point Roberts. 


He also trained to be a paramedic. Now, when not at his 

bar, which offers front-row seating for dazzling sunsets on 

the Salish Sea, he works as a fire battalion chief on Orcas 

Island. 

He reminisces about the heyday when he’d sell piles 

of gambling pull-tabs and the parking lot would fill on 

weekends, especially when there was no drinking in 

Vancouver on Sundays. It’s quieter now. “Like wrestling, 

you take your hits but you can’t quit,” he said. 

FAMILIES TRADE BINOCULARS in hopes of spotting 

a local pod of orcas at Lighthouse Marine Park, where 

there’s a weathered deck, weathered wind shelters and 

generally a fair amount of weather. 

Despite the park’s name, there’s no lighthouse—only a 

signal light. A local nonprofit hopes to build one. 

Sandwiched between two mammoth rusty anchors 

is a carved slab of black granite that is part of a crosscontinental 

art sculpture. Called “Sunsweep,” it curves 

eastward and marks the endpoint of an imaginary arch 

that traces the path of the sun along the border. An 

identical piece of granite faces west where the border ends 

at the Atlantic. 

While Point Roberts has bucolic scenery, it is a bad 

place to get sick. There’s a clinic open three days a week, 

but the closest available hospital and pharmacy are in 

Bellingham. And there’s a stark trade-off for Canadians 

and duallies—live here and you lose access to Canada’s 

universal health coverage. 

Blaustein, the TV station producer, said when people 

move here, a must-have is insurance that covers LifeFlight 

helicopter transport. The health care situation means 

people don’t stay forever, he said. He figures he’ll be here 

maybe twenty years. 

Kitty Doyle is reaching the end of her tenure. She 

moved here twenty-seven years ago with her husband, 

a Navy veteran, and eventually opened an art gallery 

in the garage. The Blue Heron Gallery has grown to a 

hodgepodge of 130 local artists from carvers to jewelers 

to people that make stuff with plates. 

Her husband died two years ago. This winter, she’ll 

shutter the business and move back to Florida to be 

closer to her children, doctors and public transit. 

Doyle paints watercolors of the idyllic local landscape 

at the end of the line. 

“It’s a fabulous, beautiful community, and there is 

nothing else like it, but it’s time,” she said, sitting on 

her patio alongside pots of lettuce and vibrant lavender. 

She smiled—no, she didn’t take the lavender from the 

post office. 


Point Roberts is nearly 

surrounded by water. 


Schoen Garden 

in Vancouver 

Returning a once-beautiful 

garden to glory 

written and photographed by Gina Williams 

WHEN ROBIN AND JANINE Richardson 

purchased their Vancouver home, 

they had no idea that another special 

discovery was quietly waiting for them. 

The secret finally revealed itself 

when they began clearing overgrown 

blackberry brambles and rogue 

weeds. The property, it turns out, 

features a famous garden created 

by the late Helene Schoen and 

designed by landscape architect 

Frank Shephard. Schoen was a 

businesswoman, philanthropist and 

first female president of the American 

Rose Society. She began creating 

the garden at about the same time 

the home was built in 1939. The 

property was later registered with the 

Smithsonian. 

The Richardsons, along with their 

arborist John Ellerton, are restoring 

Schoen’s garden with passion and 

dedication, nurturing rare plants like 

a 12-foot-tall Japanese maple and a 

mature umbrella pine back to health. 

Robin Richardson said he and his 

wife simply want to protect—and 

eventually share with the public—what 

Schoen began all those years ago. 

“The beauty of this place is Helene’s 

vision and we want to honor that.” 


Helene Schoen began designing her garden at about the same time the 

home was built in 1939. Thanks to her planning, the lush grounds are in a 

near-constant state of bloom from early spring through late fall. 


A bouquet of brilliant purple 

Columbine flowers shines beneath 

the garden’s rare Japanese maples. 


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The vast garden overlooking the Columbia River has its own 

watering system, including a separate well, and even a fountain that is now back in 

working order. A plaque honoring the Schoen’s lives and dedication to their garden. 

The old stone fireplace is one of the many features current property owners Robin and 

Janine Richardson continue to discover as they renovate the historic garden. 


Austin White 

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 

ADVENTURE 74 

LODGING 78 

TRIP PLANNER 79 

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84 

pg. 84 

Sea lions populate the Astoria, Oregon, docks.

Fall is the 

time to be in 

WALLA WALLA 

PHOTO BY KEVEN PECK 

WHEN SUMMER’S BOUNTY makes 

way for fall’s grape harvest and crush, 

it signals for many the time to make an 

annual pilgrimage to wine country. This 

is hardly a secret to wine lovers, which 

explains the crowds that typically flock to 

many wine regions in September, October, 

and November. 

Visitors to Walla Walla’s wine country will 

find a relaxed and welcoming experience, 

especially midweek. With cooler weather 

and the changing color of leaves on trees 

and vines alike, fall in the Walla Walla 

Valley is both vibrant and beautiful. 

Fall also fuels Walla Walla’s eclectic 

culinary scene. Widely regarded as the 

breadbasket of the Pacific Northwest, 

Walla Walla is home to wheat farms, 

orchards, ranches, the beloved Walla Walla 

Sweet Onion, and so much more. The 

season’s fresh harvest is prepared by local, 

renowned chefs, moving unimpeded from 

farm to table and savored in one of downtown 

Walla Walla’s charming bistros, hip 

cafés, traditional steakhouses, or gastropubs. 

Visitors are frequently overheard wishing 

they had another day or two to explore 

more of the Walla Walla Valley and cannot 

wait to return the next year. 

Walla Walla Valley wineries open their 

doors for two special autumn events. 

Fall Release Weekend, set for Nov. 3-5, 

treats wine lovers to winemakers’ newest 

creations, including special releases only 

T. MACCARONE’S 

found at the winery itself. Winemakers 

usher in the holiday season with Holiday 

Barrel Weekend, Dec. 1-3, by providing 

samples of future releases straight from 

the barrel. Unique events, such as Walla 

Walla’s monthly Food Truck Night, serve 

imaginative culinary creations, locally 

crafted beer, spirits, and wine. And the 

Downtown Walla Walla Farmers Market, 

held each Saturday at the Farmers Market 

Pavilion, hosts locals and visitors alike well 

into October. 

Explore the many autumn tastes 

of Walla Walla and start planning 

your trip at wallawalla.org. 

ABEJA INN & WINERY 

First Friday Art Tour 

Sept. 1, Oct. 6 

Walla Walla Food Truck Night 

Sept. 4, Oct. 2 

Downtown Farmers Market 

Saturdays through Oct. 

Wheelin’ Walla Walla Weekend 

Sept. 8-9 

Walla Walla Symphony 

Oct. 3, Nov. 7, Dec. 1 

Walla Walla Balloon Stampede 

Oct. 18-22 

Dia de los Muertos 

Oct. 21-22 

Fall Release Weekend 

Nov. 3-5 

Holiday Barrel Weekend 

Dec. 1-3

travel spotlight 

Nutty Narrows 

Saving Longview’s 

squirrel population, 

one bridge at a time 


photography by David Reamer 

NEXT TIME YOU’RE IN Longview—look up. 

In 1963, local construction company owner 

Amos J. Peters banded with friends to build 

Nutty Narrows, a squirrel safe passage 

across a busy road in town. 

According to the state Department of 

Archaeology and Historic Preservation, 

Peters decided to erect the bridge after 

discovering a dead squirrel on Olympia Way 

in front of his office building. He took it 

home to show his three children, then kept 

it in the freezer. His kids had the squirrel 

taxidermied as a Christmas present to their 

father, and it remains in the Amos Peters 

Construction Company lobby today. 

The bridge, first opened in 1963 after 

being approved by the parks department 

and city council and funded and built 

by locals, was featured in publications 

as varied as Sports Illustrated and the 

Christian Science Monitor. 

It allows squirrels to move between a 

city park and the Park Plaza office building 

without having to cross the road at car 

level. The 60-foot bridge has been taken 

down and repaired a few times since its 

dedication, and in the meantime, four 

more squirrel bridges have been installed 

around town. 

The bridge was listed on the National 

Register of Historic Places in 2014. 

According to the register, it’s the oldest 

known squirrel bridge in the United States 

and features a “modern design aesthetic 

combined with the do-it-yourself style of 

Amos J. Peters.” 

A large squirrel statue was also built in a 

nearby park in Peters’ memory and today 

the city hosts an annual Squirrel Fest to 

celebrate the rodents. 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A squirrel bridge 

in Longview modeled after the Fremont 

Bridge. A large squirrel sculpture erected in 

honor of Amos Peters. Rick Johnson and “The 

Sandbaggers,” who help maintain the bridges. 


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adventure 

Adventure 

CLIMBING 

MOUNT 

ST. HELENS 

A family tradition to the top of one of the 

Pacific Northwest’s most iconic peaks 

written by Dylan J. Darling 

MY FAVORITE PART of climbing 

Mount St. Helens is the view at 

the top. 

Perched on the rim of the mountain’s 

massive crater, steam puffs up and 

rocks continually fall below. Climbing 

Mount St. Helens has become a 

family tradition—my mom shares my 

opinion about the view. 

“Other mountains you are climbing 

up to sit on the top and look over 

vast horizons,” she told me. “And this 

you’re climbing up to look down into 

the volcano, into the crater.” 

Mount St. Helens became the first 

of the larger Cascades I ever climbed, 

in 2001, and in the sixteen years since, 

it has become my most climbed. I 

highly recommend climbing the 8,365- 

foot mountain, but believe it’s wise 

to go along with someone familiar 

with it. 

For me, that’s Uncle Butch (real 

name Stephen Thomas). A retired 

doctor in Portland, he has climbed 

Mount St. Helens more than twenty 

times, seven of those before the 

volcano erupted in 1980. He lines up 

the permits each year and rounds up 

a climbing crew. I’ve joined him four 

times and my mom has joined six 

times. Stormy weather has turned us 

away from the summit only once. 


Butch has climbed all the major 

Cascades in Oregon, but it’s Mount 

St. Helens, a two-hour drive into 

Washington, that he ascends 

annually. I asked him why. “The joy,” 

he told me. “It is a wonderful climb.” 

Before the eruption, Mount St. 

Helens was nearly 1,300 feet taller. By 

comparison, Mount Hood is 11,250 

feet and South Sister near Bend is 

10,358 feet. 

A string of climbers in August 2013 push up the 

ashy slope near the top of Mount St. Helens. 

Mary Darling, of Corvallis, leads the line. She 

wears gaiters to keep ash out of her boots. 

The eruption not only drastically 

changed the look of Mount St. 

Helens, it changed how a climber 

climbs the mountain. Butch told me 

the old preferred climber’s route he 

climbed with my grandpa, known 

as the Lizard Route, began at Spirit 

Lake. Climbing to the top used to 

involve bringing an ice ax 

and traveling across snow. 

Dylan J. Darling 

adventure 

PERMITS 

The U.S. Forest Service requires 

a permit to climb on Mount 

St. Helens above 4,800 feet 

throughout the year, but demand 

is highest in summer. Permits 

for climbing between April 1 

and Oct. 31 go on sale for $22 

each on Feb. 1 each year (or the 

first weekday after if it falls on a 

weekend). Permits are available 

at mshinstitute.org and purchasers 

may buy up to twelve permits 

at a time. 

Mount St. Helens Institute 

Executive Director Ray Yurkewycz 

said he has seen annual permit 

demand go from about 12,000 

permits six years ago, when he 

joined the nonprofit organization, 

to about 20,000 permits in 2016. 

Anyone hoping to climb on 

a prime summertime weekend 

should log on at 9 a.m. that day 

and brace for a website bogged 

by a flood of eager climbers. 

The rush means even the quick 

might not earn their desired 

draw. “You are not necessarily 

going to get the date you want,” 

Yurkewycz said. 

The U.S. Forest Service sets 

a limit of 500 climber permits 

per day during the summertime 

climbing season. Permits are free 

and unlimited during wintertime, 

from Nov. 1 to March 31, but 

the climb is longer because the 

Climbers Bivouac Trailhead is 

closed. Winter climbers must be 

prepared for the challenges of 

snow travel, so first-time climbers 

should stick to summer. 

Yurkewycz recommended 

grabbing permits that work best 

for you or keeping a watch on 

purmit.com as your ideal climbing 

day approaches. Sort of a 

Stubhub for climbers, the website 

allows folks to sell permits at or 

below face value. Checking for 

midweek days increases the odds 

of finding available permits, even 

in August or early September. 

“You can still climb this summer 

if you are flexible,” he said. 

More info: bit.ly/MSHpermits; 

purmit.com. 


adventure 

GETTING THERE 

From Seattle, take Interstate 5 

south to exit 22 at Dike Access 

Road and drive east about 30 

miles to Cougar. Go east on 

Lewis River Road (Forest Road 

90) for 6.4 miles. Turn left onto 

Forest Road 83 and follow for 

3 miles. Stay left onto Forest 

Road 81 and continue for 

about a mile. Turn right onto 

Forest Road 830 and go about 

a half mile to the Climbers 

Bivouac Trailhead. 

More info: bit.ly/MSHbivouac 

EQUIPMENT 

Pack what you would for a 

long day hike, including lots of 

water, a substantial lunch and 

plenty of snacks, plus these 

suggestions just for Mount 

St. Helens. 

LEATHER GLOVES: Protect 

your hands from rough or 

sharp rock, particularly in the 

boulder field. Fingerless bicycle 

gloves work great. 

GAITERS: Keeps ash from filling 

your boots when climbing up 

and down the ashy scree slope. 

TREKKING POLE: Helps keep 

you upright when hopping 

from boulder to boulder. 

“Other mountains you are 

climbing up to sit on the top 

and look over vast horizons. 

And this you’re climbing 

up to look down into the 

volcano, into the crater.” 

Steam rises from the Mount St. Helens 

crater in August 2013. The end of the climb 

offers a view into the crater from the rim. 

Climbers go up Mount St. Helens 

year-round, so winter climbers still 

encounter snow, but most climb the 

mountain in summer when the new 

route is free of snow and ice. 

The primary climbing route, the 

Monitor Ridge Route, now starts 

at the Climber’s Bivouac Trailhead. 

To avoid thunderstorms, it’s best to 

climb up early in the morning and 

start heading down by late morning 

or early afternoon. 

The bivouac provides primitive 

camping sites—vault toilets but no 

water or picnic tables—and many 

climbers stay there the night before 

their climb. Some of my favorite 

memories from Mount St. Helens 

were made at the bivouac, such as 

listening to college football on the 

radio with Butch on the eve of my 

first climb and another climber 

showing us a map of the mountain 

before it blew. 

The climb typically takes eight 

hours total—four and a half hours 

up, three and a half hours down— 

according to the Mount St. Helens 

Institute, a nonprofit organization 

devoted to education about the 

mountain. It takes me about ten hours 

for the full trip, but I like to stop and 

take a lot of photos. No wildflower 

will be left undocumented. 

The climb covers 5 miles, but I don’t 

typically think about miles when I’m 

climbing a mountain. Instead I think 

about how many feet I’m going up. 

The route up Mount St. Helens gains 

4,500 vertical feet—six times the hike 

up to Multnomah Falls. 

Some mountains are a slog, but 

thanks to Mount St. Helens’ everchanging 

terrain that’s not the case. 

Lush pine forest covers the first 

couple of miles of the trail. Shortly 

after timberline the trail disappears 

and the real climbing begins. 


adventure 


Mary Darling, of Corvallis, scrambles past a pole marking the 

Monitor Ridge Route on Mount St. Helens in August 2013. 


(Note: the last outhouse is shortly 

before this at about 2¼ miles from 

the bivouac.) 

The route passes through rocky 

gullies, over a boulderfield and up an 

ash and scree slope. Boulders make 

for the biggest challenge on Mount 

St. Helens. Wooden poles stick up 

from the rock to mark the route, but 

often I look up and see I have veered 

far off course. 

Ash high atop the mountain makes 

for its own obstacle. Ever walk up an 

escalator the wrong way? The soft 

ash can feel like that, making every 

two steps count for only one. There’s 

a clear view at the top from the 

slope, and the sight of other climbers 

relaxing, snapping photos and eating 

lunch, motivates me to join them. 

Something to keep in mind when 

climbing Mount St. Helens: the 

top isn’t the end. You’ll still have 

to trek back off the mountain. “It’s 

harder to come down than it is to 

go up,” Butch told me, adding that 

he once had to coax a friend off the 

mountain with candy. 

Stop and tighten your shoes before 

heading down. This will protect your 

toes from some of the pounding they 

are about to take. 

The summit view and the 

adventure of the day make the climb 

and descent worth it. Seeing the 

crater up close gives perspective 

about the landmark mountain, 

visible from Portland, and the 

geologic forces that broke it apart. 

“You realize it is alive,” Mary 

Darling, my mom, said. “Alive 

and well.” 


lodging 

David Phelps 

ROOMS 

Boutique style rooms, each inspired 

by a Washington winery, have plush 

bedding, appealing art and cozy 

furniture for sitting and sipping wine. 

FROM TOP Hotel Vintage Seattle features a fireside 

lobby, in-room spa treatments and nightly hosted 

wine receptions. Each boutique room is inspired by a 

Washington winery. 

David Phelps 

Hotel Vintage Seattle 


LOCATION, CHECK. Destination 

dining, check. Urban chic surroundings, 

check. Located in downtown Seattle, Hotel 

Vintage Seattle provides easy walking 

or biking access to Seattle’s beckoning 

attractions, from Pike Place Market, 

Safeco Field and Pier 91 to Pioneer Square. 

Awarded Washington’s best hotel in 2017 

by Travel + Leisure, Hotel Vintage Seattle 

is a centrally located social hub with an 

inviting hotel fireside lobby, specialty 

services like in-room spa treatments, and 

one of the best restaurants in Seattle at 

ground level. 

1100 5TH AVE. 

SEATTLE 

hotelvintage-seattle.com 

SPECIAL FEATURES 

In for a romantic evening and forgot 

your perfume at home? Hotel Vintage 

Seattle curated a partnership with 

local fragrance designer Molly Ray to 

create signature scents that parallel 

the wine theme of the hotel, available 

to purchase in each room’s mini 

bar. The scents are custom-blended 

and organic, inspired by the worldrenowned 

wine regions in France 

and Italy, and specifically designed to 

enhance the wine-drinking experience. 

AMENITIES 

With wine the central theme, a 

favorite amenity is, of course, the 

nightly hosted wine reception in the 

lobby living room. Complimentary 

hotel bicycles are available to get 

around the city, and for a great early 

morning stretch, yoga mats are 

provided in each room. 

DINING 

Hotel Vintage plays host to one 

of the best Italian restaurants in 

Washington. Tulio Ristorante exceeds 

expectations with its authenticity, 

romantic ambience and whimsical 

Italian dishes whipped together 

by executive chef Walter Pisano. 

His sweet potato gnocchi inspires 

addiction. 


trip planner 

Lake Chelan lies along the North Cascades in Washington. 

The village of Stehekin, located on the lake, is one of the few 

towns left in the U.S. only reachable by foot, boat or plane. 

Lake Chelan 

Off-the-grid peace with a side of wine 

written by Catie Joyce-Bulay 

ON THE MAP, Lake Chelan is a slender snake wriggling down out of the North Cascades 

with its head pointing east. The village of Stehekin, sitting atop the glacial lake and nestled 

into jagged peaks and thick forests, is one of the few remaining towns in the country only 

reachable by foot, boat or plane. There’s no cell service, and the internet was brought 

to its ninety-five year-round residents only ten years ago. With a history rife with the 

pioneering spirit, this village somehow manages to hang on to that feeling while offering 

tourists as rugged or pampered an experience as desired. 

The lake’s southern shores cross over into the dry side of the state and feel like a world 

away. The small towns of Chelan and Manson rest at its base on rolling hills of shrub 

steppe, orchards and, more recently, vineyards. This relatively new wine region is 

a little bit of glam, while still holding onto its Old West vibe. If you’re looking for a 

weekend getaway that feels like two destinations in one, Lake Chelan is the place. 


trip planner 

Lake Chelan Valley is home 

to more than twenty wineries. 

Day 

ZIPLINES • WINE & CHEESE • SANDY BEACH 

Before diving into an afternoon of lakeside wine tasting, start 

with a bird’s eye view of the surrounding valley at Tunnel Zip 

Lines, just west of Chelan. You’ll run through all four of their 

courses, building up to speeds of 45 mph to 60 mph on the final 

run, the fastest in North America. The lines have views of the 

Columbia River, cherry orchards and Castle Vineyards (open for 

tasting) below. You may even spy some wildlife. Owner Loretta 

Kelley often spots a mountain goat or two on the cliffsides, and 

recalls once having to wait for a bear to leave the platform. 

For equally stunning views without the speed, visit nearby Siren 

Song Vineyard Estate and Winery and take a cooking class. While 

sipping the eclectic variety of reds and whites, each with a story 

behind it, take in the lake and begin to let its song seep in. 

The Lake Chelan Valley was granted its American Viticultural 

Area status in 2009. Characterized by mild lake-effect 

temperatures and coarse sandy soil, it is now home to more 

than twenty wineries. Lake Chelan Winery was its first. Drive 

to its northshore tasting room to sample award-winning wines 

alongside cheeses from around the world from Lake Chelan 

Cheese Shop, conveniently located inside. Gather your favorite 

pairings along with charcuterie to take on a lakeside picnic lunch. 

The valley has a long history of growing flavorful apples, so 

it makes sense that cideries are now cropping up in the region. 

Washington Gold Cider’s tasting room, installed in an old apple 

packing shed, is located behind the winery—check out the noncarbonated 

Lake Chelan Heritage Cider. 

As you continue your drive up the lake you’ll reach the little 

unincorporated town of Manson, with expansive views of apple 

and cherry orchards. Stop at Willow Point Park (2 miles north of 

town) to picnic on its sandy shore, and take a refreshing dip in 

the lake. 

Back in Chelan lies Grandview on the Lake, a popular hotel 

with a lakeview pool. For an upscale dinner, make reservations at 

the stunning Sorrento’s Ristorante at Tsillan Cellars, a short drive 

away, where Italy is the inspiration for both menu and architecture. 

End the evening with a stroll through downtown, and get a Wild 

West-inspired cocktail at Outlaw BBQ and Steakhouse, 

just off the main strip—try the puckery Annie Oakley. 


Soak in the views while listening to 

the ferry captain narrate points of 

interest on the Lady of the Lake. 

Day 

FERRY • UPLAKE • HIKING 

Grab a fresh-baked quiche and coffee at The Vogue before catching 

the Lady of the Lake ferry, which arrives at Stehekin in time for lunch 

(the Lady Express offers quicker trips during high season). Find the best 

views at the head of the boat, where you can watch the Cascades reveal 

ever-larger peaks around each bend. The ferry captain narrates points 

of interest along the way, like the deepest point at 1,486 feet. Watch 

along the canyon walls for several waterfalls. 

Upon docking, if you’re staying at the National Park Service-run 

North Cascades Lodge at Stehekin, you can unload your luggage 

and get lunch on the restaurant’s patio. Make sure to leave room for 

homemade ice cream. Then, hoof it on one of a number of hiking trails 

that range from easy shoreline or river’s edge paths to steep climbs. 

Access trailheads by foot or take the antique-like red shuttle bus. 

Recommended is the 4.4-mile Rainbow Loop Trail, which winds up 

the valley through open meadows and sweet-scented conifer forests 

on moderate switchbacks with 180-degree mountain views. The trail 

then descends through a 2010 burn area, where barren trees stipple the 

hillside, making way for a proliferation of wildflowers. 

You can walk the road 2.6 miles back to the lodge for dinner, or make 

arrangements for a shuttle stop if you have dinner reservations at 

Stehekin Valley Ranch. Its ranch roast is such a favorite with regulars 

they wouldn’t let the ranch take it off the menu, and cowboy coffee is 

always brewing over the fire. The ranch is one of a handful of lodging 

options (including free camping), and also offers guided kayak or 

horse trips. 

Spend a quiet evening back at the lodge in the second floor 

sunroom and borrow a book or board game off the shelf. 

Stehekin Valley Ranch offers 

guided horse or kayak tours. 


trip planner 

Catie Joyce-Bulay 

FROM LEFT Eat on the water at North Cascades Lodge. 

The old one-room schoolhouse was in use until 1988. 

Day 

BIKE • BAKERY • MASSAGE 

LAKE CHELAN, WASHINGTON 

EAT 

Outlaw BBQ and Steakhouse 

outlawchelanrestaurant.com 

Sorrento’s Ristorante 

tsillancellars.com/dining 

The Vogue Coffee 

chelanvogue.com 

Stehekin Valley Ranch 

stehekinvalleyranch.com/dinner-reservations 

Stehekin Pastry Company 

stehekinpastry.com 

STAY 

Grandview on the Lake 

grandviewonthelake.com 

Lakeside Lodging and Suites 

lakesidelodgeandsuites.com 

North Cascades Lodge at Stehekin 

lodgeatstehekin.com 

PLAY 

Tunnel Zipelines 

tunnelziplines.com 

Siren Song Vineyard Estate and Winery 

sirensongwines.com 

Lake Chelan Winery 

lakechelanwinery.com 

Washington Gold Cider 

washingtongoldcider.com 

Hiking in Stehekin 

stehekinvalley.com/activities 

Discovery Bikes 

stehekindiscoverybikes.com 

Fuel up with a hearty breakfast sandwich 

at the lodge’s restaurant before hitting the 

shuttle with your rental bike. The shuttle 

ride is a great way to learn about the village’s 

history as the driver (some are among the 

few year-round residents) narrates, while the 

glass roof allows for canyon-top views. We 

spotted a variety of ducks, mule deer and a 

black bear from our seats. 

The shuttle’s last stop, Highbridge Camp, 

makes for an easy 11-mile bike ride back to 

the dock, since it’s mostly coasting downhill— 

you can also request a closer stop. The Pacific 

Crest Trail crosses here, and each mid-tolate 

September hundreds of thru-hikers stop 

for their last supply drops before they reach 

Canada—a few days walk away. Thru-hikers 

are a friendly lot, so stop and chat with them. 

The bike ride offers plenty of opportunities 

to stop and take in views along the Stehekin 

River or the many creeks. Rainbow Falls, 

which can be viewed from the road, is a great 

rest stop. Its upper viewing deck will revive 

you with a brisk shower from the spray coming 

off the 312-foot falls. Back on the road, you’ll 

pass the old one-room schoolhouse, in use 

(including its outhouse) until 1988, and the 

new one-room schoolhouse, where twenty or 

so resident children receive K-8 education. 

Before biking back to the landing, be 

sure to stop in at The Garden to visit with 

the goats, sample goat cheese, yogurt and 

honey, and meet Karl Gaskill, the gardener. 

He provides most of the in-season organic 

vegetables for the local restaurants, and 

enough food to sustain himself through 

the winter on his lovingly tended 1-acre 

plot. A self-described hermit, Gaskill 

makes it downlake about once a year for his 

annual haircut. 

Lunch at Stehekin Pastry Company is a 

must. It offers daily sandwich, soup and salad 

specials, but there are also fluffy savory-filled 

croissants, and, of course, sweets, including 

head-sized cinnamon buns. 

If you’re catching the 2 p.m. ferry, you 

might have time to rent a kayak from the 

lodge. It’s an easy paddle across the lake to 

view ancient pictographs. But don’t miss out 

on the number-one Stehekin activity—as our 

shuttle driver pointed out—relaxing. If you 

need a little extra help in that department, 

book a massage at Stehekin Valley Ranch. 

But finding your Zen is as easy as claiming 

one of the Adirondack chairs on the lodge’s 

deck. Shaded by a fir tree, watch the resident 

sparrows flutter and dive over the sunstippled 

aqua lake. 


...the Natural Side of Puget Sound TM 

TM 

Kitsap 

Peninsula 

National 

Water 

Trails 

Kitsap 

Peninsula 

VisitKitsap.com/lodging 

Easy to get to by ferry, bridge, bike, boat, bus or auto. 

• Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard 

360.895.2666 | tinyurl.com/mu4zfde 

• Guest House International - Poulsbo 

360.697.4400 | guesthouseintl.com 

• Poulsbo Inn & Suites - Little Norway 

800.597.5151 | poulsboinn.com 

• Suquamish Clearwater Casino Resort 

360.598.8700 | clearwatercasino.com 

• Oxford Suites - Silverdale Waterfront 

888.698.7848 | oxfordsuitessilverdale.com 

• Silverdale Beach Hotel - Best Western Plus 

360.698.1000 | silverdalebeachhotel.com 

• The Point Casino & Hotel - Kingston 

866-547-6468 | the-point-casino.com 

• Hamption Inn & Suites - Hilton - Bremerton 

360.405.0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com 

Just 12 miles east of Seattle! 

www.explorekirkland.com

northwest destination 

Historical Astoria 

Experience the bridge 

between history and today 

written by Kimberly Bowker 

photography by Austin White 

The Astoria-Megler Bridge 

spans the Columbia River. 

ASTORIA IS AN OUTPOST of history that 

stakes its claim at the momentous merging of 

the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. 

The little fishing town, with a population of 

about 10,000, is settled in Oregon near the 

Washington border. On an outcropping of a 

remembered past, Astoria aligns its exploratory 

history with today’s adventures, as visitors 

breathe in timeless ocean air on what seems like 

the edge of the world. 

As the oldest continuous settlement west of 

the Rockies, Astoria embraces and shares its 

significant role as a place of meeting between 

people, nature and time. The Clatsop Indians 

lived here for thousands of years, and in 1792 

the Boston ship Columbia Rediviva first sailed 

across the mouth of the Columbia River. In 

1805, Lewis and Clark wintered in nearby 

Fort Clatsop while in search of the coveted 

Northwest Passage, and in 1811 John Jacob 

Astor ambitiously established an international 

fur-trading operation based in the town of his 

eventual namesake: Astoria. 

Embark on your own personal voyage of 

discovery, strolling along the town’s River Walk 

that skirts the Columbia River, or board the 

Riverfront Trolley for $1 a ride or $2 for the day. 

The restored 1913 trolley makes stops along its 

journey at destinations such as the Columbia 

River Maritime Museum. Carve out a few hours 

to explore the dramatic history of danger on 

the river’s bar crossing, marvel at artifacts the 

waters have carried to its shores, and walk the 

deck of the Columbia Lightship vessel floating 

near the museum. 

“Our museum lives on such historical 

ground,” said Jeff Smith, curator of the museum. 

“It gives us a unique opportunity to share those 

stories with future generations, because this is 

where history took place.” 

After working up a thirst along the River 

Walk, pause for a handcrafted beer at Buoy Beer 

Co., located above blue waters in a restored 

cannery building nearly a century 

old. Head upland to the next stop on 

your beer tour through the charming 

FURTHER 

HISTORIC 

READING 

• Astoria by Peter Stark 

• Astoria, or Anecdotes 

of an Enterprise Beyond 

the Rocky Mountains by 

Washington Irving, originally 

published in 1836 

• Astoria (Images of 

America) by Jeffrey H. 

Smith 

• Undaunted Courage: 

Meriwether Lewis, 

Thomas Jefferson, and the 

Opening of the American 

West by Stephen 

Ambrose 


A bonfire at nearby Sunset Beach. 

old streets of downtown Astoria to Fort 

George Brewery + Public House. Feast on 

a Northwest coast-style lunch paired with a 

fresh brew while overlooking the ships on 

the Columbia River in one of the brewery’s 

historic buildings constructed in the 1920s. 

Astoria was known as Fort George while 

under British rule during the War of 1812 

when King George III ruled Britain. 

Continue strolling historic downtown, 

witnessing the evolution of time as the 

architecture changes. Duck your head into a 

variety of boutique and antique stores, such 

as Cargo, which sells collectibles and gifts 

from around the world, and Farm House 

Funk, an antiques dealer with flair. Don’t 

forget to grab a coffee at the Rusty Cup. 

For a bite to eat, enjoy locally sourced 

food at Street 14 Café, or head over to the 

window of the Bowpicker Fish & Chips. 

The fishing boat-turned-restaurant is 

conveniently located on land, but is open 

limited hours with weather and fish 

supply permitting. 

If history is a passion, make time to 

navigate Astoria’s many museums. Learn 

about local past at the Columbia Pacific 

Heritage Museum, what life was like in the 

oldest surviving cannery building on the 

Columbia River at the Hanthorn Cannery 

Foundation Museum, or experience the 

Victorian era at the Captain George 

Flavel House Museum in a beautiful 1886 

Victorian-style home. Rediscover movies 

at the Oregon Film Museum located 

in the old Clatsop County Jail, or view 

firefighting equipment dating to the late 

nineteenth-century at the Uppertown 

Firefighter’s Museum. 

You can absorb history even as you sleep, 

relaxing at the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa. 

On the Columbia River, the hotel sits on 

century-old pilings that previously held the 

Union Fisherman’s Cooperative Packing 

Company. For more recent history, book a 

room at the colorful Atomic Motel, which 

delights in its 1950s origins. At the center 

of 1920s downtown are the boutique 

Commodore Hotel and an 1880s Victorian 

home doing business as the Benjamin 

Young Inn. 

Travel farther afield during your Astoria 

explorations and take a 15-minute drive to 

Fort Clatsop, a Lewis and Clark National 

Historic Park. Walk the nature trails in 

the wooded area and explore the replica 

of the fort where the Corps of Discovery 

wintered from 1805 to 1806, after traveling 

4,000 miles to determine a route to the 

Pacific Ocean. 

To complete your historic getaway, visit 

the Astoria Column standing 600 feet above 

sea level. It takes 164 steps to reach the top 

of the column, built in 1926 and covered 

with murals recounting the region’s historic 

timeline of discovery. From the top, cast 

your gaze over an expansive view of the 4.1- 

mile Astoria-Megler Bridge that crosses the 

Columbia River. See with your own eyes 

where the Columbia River meets the Pacific 

Ocean, and stand witness to this corner’s 

grand history of time. 

ASTORIA, OREGON 

WHERE TO EAT 

Fort George Brewery + Public House 

fortgeorgebrewery.com 

Street 14 Café 

street14cafe.com 

T. Paul’s Urban Café 

tpaulsurbancafe.com 

Bowpicker Fish & Chips 

bowpicker.com 

WHERE TO STAY 

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa 

cannerypierhotel.com 

Hotel Elliott 

hotelelliott.com 

Atomic Motel 

astoriamotel.com 

Norblad Hotel & Hostel 

norbladhotel.com 

WHERE TO PLAY 

Columbia River Maritime Museum 

crmm.org 

Astoria Column 

astoriacolumn.org 

Fort Clatsop 

nps.gov/lewi/planyourvisit/fortclatsop.htm 

Cape Disappointment State Park 

parks.state.wa.us/486/Cape-Disappointment 


1889 MAPPED 

The points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1889. 

Oroville 

Forks 

Friday Harbor 

Port Angeles Coupeville 

Port 

Townsend 

Bellingham 

Mount Vernon 

Lakewood 

Marysville 

Everett 

Okanogan 

Republic 

Colville 

Newport 

Aberdeen 

South 

Bend 

Shelton 

Montesano 

Port Orchard 

Cathlamet 

Longview 

Olympia 

Chehalis 

Kelso 

Seattle 

Bellevue 

Renton 

Kent 

Federal Way 

Tacoma 

Ellensburg 

Yakima 

Waterville 

Wenatchee 

Ephrata 

Prosser 

Richland 

Wilbur 

Pasco 

Kennewick 

Ritzville 

Dayton 

Walla 

Walla 

Davenport 

Spokane 

Colfax 

Pomeroy 

Asotin 

Vancouver 

Stevenson 

Goldendale 

Live 

Think 

Explore 

16 

Zoo Tunes 

44 

SUPrents 

72 

Nutty Narrows 

17 

Ellensburg Rodeo 

46 

Dick’s Drive-In 

74 

Climbing Mount St. Helens 

24 

Mill 109 Restaurant 

47 

Bird-watching 

78 

Hotel Vintage Seattle 

26 

Cascadia Mushrooms 

48 

Goldendale Observatory 

79 

Lake Chelan 

38 

Poet Laureate Tod Marshall 

50 

Molly Moon’s 

84 

Historical Astoria 


Until Next Time 

Finding Home in Green Bluff 

written by Nicole Sheets 

THE FIRST TIME I visited Green Bluff, I was with my 

colleague and mentor, Pam. I had only lived in Washington 

for a few months. Green Bluff is about 17 miles north of 

downtown Spokane, and only 10 miles from the campus 

where we taught, but it feels worlds away. It’s a loop of small 

farms and scenic barns, evergreens and rolling hills dotted 

with hay bales or alpacas. The place is basically one giant 

photo op. 

Pam and I were supposed to go on a walk that summer 

morning, but by the time I got to her house, around 9 a.m., 

she’d been awake for so long that she’d already taken that walk 

and was ready for Green Bluff. 

Pam’s impulse to go early was wise: picking feels fine in the 

cool of the morning, though you already feel the promise of 

noonday heat. You wear your broad-brimmed hat and balance 

your pail or cut-open milk jug. Your coffee hasn’t worn off yet. 

You’re focused. 

It was almost the end of strawberry picking. I was slow at 

collecting the fruit, but Pam was efficient, used to dealing 

with dirt to get what she wanted. Pam was an expert gardener, 

maintaining a backyard oasis that she shared with family and 

friends. She lived by a modified version of Cicero’s aphorism: 

If you have a garden and a library and chocolate, you have 

everything you need. 

Pam took me to several of her favorite spots on the bluff. At 

the farm where we picked the strawberries, the owner knew 

her by name. Pam told me that he plays classical music to his 

cucumbers to make them grow. This was no joke. Her tone 

revealed some kind of gardeners’ compact to respect whatever 

magic or strategy will conjure the fruit from the blossom. 

When my daughter was born almost two years ago, no 

one rejoiced with me more than Pam. I took my daughter 

to Green Bluff for the first time when she was six weeks old. 

As I sat on a hay bale, nursing her in the shade of a cherry 

orchard, I knew I had achieved a new level of assimilation 

to the Pacific Northwest. We should be on a poster, I 

thought. When the baby fell asleep, I handed her to a friend 

while I climbed ladders and picked 10 pounds of Bing and 

Rainier cherries. 

Pam died last August, much too soon. I remember her 

when I walk by the garden she helped to design on campus, 

its flowers like a calendar, crocus to lavender. From my first 

days in Washington, Pam took the time to show me some 

of the places she loved best, places like Green Bluff, as a way 

of saying that everything would be all right, and that if I was 

open to it, this place would start to feel like home. About 

this, and so much else, she 

was right. 


360.671.3990 

bellingham.org 

SEAFEAST FESTIVAL | SHOPPING | CRAFT BREWERIES 

ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA | WATERFRONT HOTELS

YOU SAY 

POTATO. 

I SAY 

POTAHTO. 

WE BOTH SAY SOUR CREAM. 

PURE & SIMPLE DARIGOLD SOUR CREAM 

has that rich, ever-so-slightly tangy taste. 

It’s perfect on nachos, potatoes and dessert 

treats. Try it and taste the local difference.

1889 AugSept 2017

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