Jan Feb 2013

72 Hours in 

Sisters pg. 36 

Oregons Chess 

Grandmaster 

Days on 

The Rogue 

Farm to Table 

Urban Style 

january february 013 volume 1 

ReADErs ' 

years of excellence

2011 

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COVER 

 

 

B 

J 

THIS PAGE 

F 

A J 

66 

The Rogue 

Shooting stars, black bears 

and whitewater—four days on 

the Wild and Scenic Rogue 

River and one of the best 

trips a family can take. 

74 

King Arthur 

Oregon’s only grandmaster chess 

player, Arthur Dake, lived the 

life of a renegade, hopscotching 

around the world and leaving 

pawns in his wake. 

80 

Gallery 

Cyclocross is a sport of 

endurance and discipline, 

often mixed with a dose of 

tomfoolery. Free-wheeling garb 

and mud required. 

84 

Best of Oregon 

You voted. We tallied. And 

now, the very best Oregon 

trails, wineries, luxury hotels, 

vistas and more are revealed. 

by KEVIN MAX 

by CASEY BUSH 

by TIM LABARGE 

by LEE LEWIS HUSK

What if everything on earth 

were grown organically? 

Again.

Departments 


54 

116 

49 

108 

106 

64 

In this issue 

Around Oregon 

22 Notebook 

Funky, independent movie theaters, 

2013 trends, a world of booze in 

Oregon, endangered buildings and 

your new living room. 

34 Road Reconsidered 

Explore the south coast on Highway 

101, from Bandon to the border. 

36 72 Hours in Sisters 

She’s doubled in size over the past 

decade, and has never looked better. 

43 Restaurant Reviews 

1859 reviews comfort food. 

16 Editor's Letter 

124 Oregon Postcard 

125 Explore Guide 

137 Oregon Quotient 

138 Map of Oregon 

Local Habit 

49 Artist in Residence 

Joe Wirtheim uses persuasive media 

for good—creating posters with 

saturated graphics and illustrations 

to promote healthful eating. 

52 From Where I Stand 

Klamath Falls: Where alternative 

energy and a thriving medical community 

meet water and fowl near the 

California border. 

54 Top 5 

Elusive and lauded director, Portlander 

Gus Van Sant, reveals the 

reasons why he makes films. 

DIGITAL 

Ventures 

58 Into the Soul 

Enter the bold world of Gallagher 

Designs with Tim Gallagher. 

60 e Profile 

Bob’s Red Mill is a global grain distributor 

with a local flavor. At age 83, 

Bob is still milling. 

62 What I’m Working On 

Beyond the Oregon Trail 

attempts to rewrite an inclusive 

history curriculum for the betterment 

of all. 

64 Game Changers 

Dogs for the Deaf brings companionship 

and canine assistance to 

new heights. 

amaing 

ccocross photos ontests 

18 bet buce 

shirts 

 

1859MAGAZINE.COM 

58 

Food & Home 

100 Farm to Table 

Urban Rot owner, Leather Storrs, 

brings a rooftop to life in Portland 

and proves that fresh food pairs 

well with innovation. 

106 Home Grown Chef 

Carrie Minns can sneak greens 

onto the plates of even the most 

veggie averse. 

108 Design 

Two women use friendship and an 

unconventional design aesthetic to 

rennovate a ranch-style home. 

PLUS Shipping containers gone wild. 

Outdoors 

116 Adventures 

In a sportman’s paradise with 

upland bird hunting. 

122 Athlete Profile 

Stacy Allison was the first American 

woman to summit Mt. Everest—and 

she didn’t stop there.

KEVIN MAX 

E 

SARAH MAX 

E A AE 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR 

A J 

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 

 

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DIGITAL COORDINATOR 

B 

INTERN 

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

B 

A F E F A 

J 

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS 

A E B J 

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E N J 

CONTRIBUTING ARTIST 

J 

03283 / portland 

10081 / central oregon 

13010 fax 

SEND YOUR COMMENTS TO 

18 

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2025 nw northrup portland, oregon 

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FIRST, THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM. Photographer and friend 

Tim Labarge took this shot after the Halloween Cross Crusade in 

Bend. For twelve years, my wife has been looking for creative (and, 

let’s face it, not so creative) ways to shut me up. I was looking for a 

costume for Halloween Cross that would, by its very nature, compromise 

my ability to ride the complete course and, at the same time, 

offer me an excuse for superficial interaction with people. By channeling 

Charlie Chaplin during the Halloween Cross Crusade—supplanting 

most of the actual hard work of racing—I was able to accomplish 

a good number of these goals, while paying homage to a hero of cinema. 

See Tim’s full “Gallery” of amazing shots taken at this race and 

others on page 80. 

A modern-day cinematic icon, film director Gus Van Sant, was 

kind enough to let us into his world for an earnest discussion of why 

he makes movies. The director of Drugstore Cowboy and My Own 

Private Idaho takes up a powerful topic in the just-released Promised 

Land. Read Van Sant’s raison d’être in “Top 5” on page 54. 

In this issue, I‘d also like to introduce the story of a true unsung 

hero, Arthur Dake, Oregon’s only grandmaster chess player. The son of 

Polish immigrants who lived in Portland, Dake learned to push pieces 

at the Portland Chess Club in the late 1920s. Not one for school, Dake 

learned quickly under the tutelage of E.G. Short, himself a dropout. 

Over the course of his chess career, Dake would go on to shock World 

Champion, Russian Alexander Alekhine, lead the U.S. chess team to 

its first three Olympic gold medals and become known as the World 

Champion speed chess player before retiring to raise a family. Dake’s 

intriguing life is recounted for us by chess player and one-time Dake 

acquaintance, Casey Bush. Before there was a Bobby Fischer, there 

was “King Arthur.” Read his fascinating story on page 74. 

You’ll also notice right away that this is the Best of Oregon issue. 

Over the course of three months, we gathered your online ballots and 

then tallied the votes. We were impressed with the number of voters 

who turned out to make this a true representation of the best of 

Oregon. From rustic and luxury lodging to hikes, camping, wine and 

beer, there are some interesting winners and runners up herein on page 84. 

To best convey the Best of Oregon, we turned to artist and poster propagandist, Joe Wirtheim. He worked tirelessly 

to help us develop the perfect image and create our first illustrated cover. We profile more of Wirtheim’s creative work 

in “Artist in Residence” on page 49. 

By now, you’ve proffered some iron-clad New Year’s resolution. If yours is anything like mine, I’ll see you at these comfort 

food restaurants: Screen Door and Pine State Biscuits in Portland, and Papa’s Soul Food Kitchen in Eugene. Just don’t judge 

me by my table manners. We’ve done the thankless task of reviewing these comfort dens on page 43. Happy New Year! 

Photo by Tim Labarge 

1 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013

Looking for a specialist? 

Legacy has you covered 

www.legacyhealth.org 

Legacy Health features hundreds of great specialists across the Portland- 

Vancouver area — at dozens of Legacy Medical Group specialty clinics plus 

many partners in private practice. 

For virtually every health need for children and adults, from asthma to 

heart burn, from diabetes to cancer care, chances are you can find a Legacy 

specialist near you. 

Legacy network doctors are aligned with Legacy’s award-winning services 

and hospitals, and they accept most health insurance plans. 

To find a doctor, call 503-335-3500. 

Pediatric oncologist Janice Olson, M.D.; 

urogynecologist Audrey Curtis, M.D.; 

pediatric cardiologist James Kyser, M.D. 

Our legacy is yours. 

AD-0815 ©2012

1859 digital 

EXPLORE | WIN | CONNECT 

get social 

Join our discussion of all things Oregon with the 

1859 online community—a place to learn, discuss 

and ask questions about Oregon travel, history 

and happenings. 

comments 

KAYE WEFELMEYER 

My husband and I love this 

magazine. It is everything that is 

great about Oregon. 

JIM KLEINSCHMIT 

That photo of the hops being picked 

reminded me of my elementary years 

in Mt. Angel, Oregon. 

JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK.COM/1859OREGON 

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What will the biggest trend 

in Oregon be in 2013? 

Tell us at 1859magazine. 

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FROM OREGON CRAFTSMEN 

>>> The 1859 monthly newsletter is your resource for giveaways, 

news and recipes. Visit 1859magazine.com/newsletter. 

Win exclusive hotel stays, free tickets and lots more. 

calendar 

>>> Looking for something to do this weekend? Visit 

1859magazine.com/calendar for a current line-up of 

Oregon’s most happening events across the whole state. 

A N D MORE AT 1859magazine.com

“We are building on a legacy.” 

—Robin Runstein 

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With a roster of smart, young, energetic attorneys, Kell,Alterman 

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SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE! 

Spend the day exploring the Dream to Fly, among our world-class collection of 

more than 200 Aircraft, Spacecraft and Exhibits 

Planes not your thing? It may be cold outside, but it’s 85˚ all year inside the 

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Around Oregon 

Places, 

people, 

things to do 

22 What’s Trending 

 

2013 

24 Do & See 

F 

 

26 Culture 

 

 

28 Libations 

 

 

 

30 Goods & Gear 

A 

 

34 Road Reconsidered 

101 

B 

36 72 Hours 

 

43 Restaurant Reviews 

 

Photo by Erin Berg 

72 hours 

Layers of quilting fabric 

at Stitching Post in Sisters.

A peek into 

the 2013 

crystal ball 

URBAN WINERIES 

t te s e r- 

t te te ttes 

largely occurred in warehouses 

located in major 

cities. Since then, the trend 

has been to stick close to 

the grape growing regions, 

making areas such as the 

Willamette Valley highly 

desirable—and quite expensive. 

The urban winery 

renaissance is bringing the 

process and experience 

back to city dwellers. PDX 

r eres r 

association of nine Portland 

wineries, offers urban 

wine tours, tastings and 

experiences. Most bottles 

come in at $30 or less. 

pdxurbanwineries.com 

 

LABELING & GMOs 

While the verdict is still out 

on the effects of geneti- 

fie rss 

or GMOs, many people 

have already drawn their 

own line in the sand on 

whether food and beverage 

packaging should be 

labeled accordingly. California 

brought the issue to 

te t veer t 

fairly evenly divided results 

(53% against labeling, 47% 

in favor). In the meantime, 

several Oregon companies—including 

Bob’s Red 

Mill, Masala Pop, Kettle 

Chips and Rose City Delicacies—have 

decided to 

voluntarily display the new 

'M' se. 

Ryno lives up to its slogan: One is enough. It’s possible 

that if you’ve been on the streets of Portland recently, 

watched "Portlandia" or read GQ, you’ve seen a 

one-wheel motorcycle that made you pause. Riding 

the excitement of this almost cartoon-like invention is 

Ryno CEO and inventor, Chris Hoffman. After receiving 

worldwide fanfare and funding in 2012, Ryno will 

be available for limited purchase in 2013. 

rynomotors.com 

Courtesy of Big Table Farm 

ORANGE WINE 

Sorry, was that orange 

you said? Though wine 

connoisseurs often compare 

the notes of red and 

white wines like apples 

and oranges, some wineries 

have started bridging 

that gap. Orange wine is 

the result of applying red 

wine processes to white 

wine grapes—usually Pinot 

gris. To put it simply, red 

wine grapes are traditionally 

crushed with their skins 

and left to settle for a period 

of time, while white 

wine grapes are crushed 

and separated from their 

skins right away. Rosé 

makers have been applying 

white wine processes 

to red wine for years—so 

it seemed a natural evolution 

to reverse the roles. 

BIKES 

Oregon wheels are spinning—and consistently picking up 

speed. America’s bike-friendly state recently cycled into 

the ranks as number one among states for bike riders per 

capita. In Oregon, cyclists come in any combination of 

commuters, roadies, mountain bikers and cyclocross diehards. 

At last count, Oregon’s bike industry accounted 

for about $150 million of the state’s economy—part of 

a steady upward trend this millennium. Though none of 

the giants of bike manufacturing are here, the custom 

e rts stres re rs. t te 

Bike Institute in Ashland claims the world’s only academic 

program dedicated to custom bike building. 

B te ers 

Biking in Portland 

7,100er e trs 

across the Hawthorne Bridge. 

219 % 

$64 

Million 

Percent biking increased 

r . ers re 

6% from 2010 to 2011. 

Amount Portland residents 

will have saved in health 

care costs by 2017 thanks 

to bicycling, according to 

bikesbelong.org. 

Popular in Italy and Slovenia, 

orange wine is not 

efie r s 

as rosé (nor is the name 

as whimsical). Orange 

wines appear in rich 

honey to mandarin 

shades and maintain 

white wine notes but 

with a tannic red 

wine-like feel. A number 

of Oregon wineries 

have caught the 

orange fever. 


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Deposit products offered by U.S. Bank National Association. Member FDIC. 

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Do & See 

submit Do & See items at 1859magazine.com/notebook 

Independent 

Movie Theaters 

Hollywood Theatre, Portland 

hollywoodtheatre.org | Four Screens 

s s teters rtetre s s sfit t sre tes t 

name their neighborhood after it. Located in the Hollywood District, the 

teter s rfit rts te est fi 

rv et r fi vers fiers. 

photo by ohn Keel 

Whether they be classic renovated 

theaters or newly built pocket cinemas, 

small movie houses—if you look closely—are 

offering an alternative to the 

oversize-me blockbuster complexes. 

OK Theater, Enterprise 

theok.tk | Single Screen 

te eser e te 

one of the most modern buildings in eastern Oregon. The 

OK Theater would have 500 seats, featuring one cuttingee 

et s rs. t fi te reserve 

theater today (without heads blocking your view) and 

smother your popcorn in the town’s signature condiment—brewer’s 

yeast. 

Darkside Cinema, Corvallis 

darksidecinema.com | Three Screens 

The self-proclaimed eclectic theater lives up to its name. 

Opened on April Fools' Day 2005, the theater is on the 

se r ret se reete t vevet rtr 

ste. e fie se ers 

rte sstt tr ter fi seetions 

and compostable/recyclable options in the concesss 

st. er rer s rtes tt fi 

(avanlonds.typepad.com). 

2 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 

Salem Cinema, Salem 

salemcinema.com | Three Screens 

The only independent theater in our state’s capital, Salem 

Cinema offers an airy and comfortable café-style lobby. Real 

butter and fresh cookies are staples, and the dreaded front 

row sections have been replaced with couches. The cinema's 

owner is known to chat with viewers after the show, taking 

ee sests e t fi. 

McMenamins 

mcmenamins.com 

With movie screens in unusual (and mostly historic) venues, 

these theaters are some of the best for a cozy dinner date 

r s rtest r t tters. t 

to beer and wine (available at many places on our list), a 

t s s t. er stre fis 

in grand couch-clad spaces with a style that only the McMenamin 

brothers can produce. 

Tin Pan Theater, Bend 

tinpantheater.com | Single Screen 

The newest theater on our list (opened in 2012), Tin Pan is also 

the smallest at twenty-eight seats. Moviegoers walk directly 

into the brick-walled viewing room from an alley in downtown. 

r eer r ss e set ere te fi . e 

eeree s tte te fis re er. 

Laurelhurst Theater, Portland 

laurelhursttheater.com | Four Screens 

s s e te ts stre er s. 

and theater, the Art Deco building has expanded since its 

e ers te veee tes rt 

each seat to facilitate your movie viewing, microbrew sipping 

and pub-fare eating.

Mt. Bachelor Ski Resort 

The best memories aren’t just made. 

They’re found. 

Find your real winter experience at 

Central Oregon’s own Mt. Bachelor. 

Get your free Visitors Guide and win your winter vacation 

VisitCentralOregon.com or call 800.800.8334

Culture 

submit Do & See items at 1859magazine.com/notebook 

Four of Oregon’s Most 

Endangered Places 

Anyone can nominate a historic place to the Historic Preservation League of Oregon’s 

st Mst Eere es. rter e str sfie re te 

threat, demonstrated local support and long-term viability of the property. The non- 

rfit rt rs t rse s t tte t srt t sve 

restore and revitalize Oregon’s iconic buildings that have fallen into disrepair. To help 

or to nominate a location, visit historicpreservationleague.org. 

1. Jantzen Beach Carousel | Portland 

r t te .. rer te rse 

s ste te e s rt seet 

park known locally as the “Million Dollar Playground.” Despite 

the loss of the amusement park and the surrounding context, 

the carousel, with its seventy-two hand-carved wooden horses, 

operated on Jantzen Beach until abruptly closing in April, 2012. 

The carousel has been dismantled, and its fate is unknown. 

Owner: Edens Inc. 

Photo by Tanya Lyn arch 

2. Ermatinger House | Oregon City 

The 1844 Francis Ermatinger House is one of the oldest 

buildings standing in Oregon. In February 2011, a num- 

er rt strtr efiees ere etfie 

by the city, causing the house-museum to be closed 

to the public due to safety concerns that the house 

might collapse. In the eighteen months since being 

listed as a 2011 Most Endangered Place, a plan for 

the building’s rehabilitation has been commissioned, 

and public and private dollars are being assembled 

to bring the building back to life. 

Owner: City of Oregon City 

3. Rivoli Theater | Pendleton 

s teter s t te ert te t M treet 

Commercial Historic District and was once the social 

r t t. tere sfit 

r te s tretee t et r 

ers rfit re te ter 

it was listed as a 2012 Most Endangered Place, and 

is planning for its rehabilitation. Last summer, HPLO funde 

te first ste tr restrt ee tte 

a laser scan of the building as a foundation for the new 

interior design and overall restoration. 

Owner: Rivoli Restoration Coalition 

4. Net Loft | Astoria 

e r ert et t rer 

Fishermen's Cooperative Packing Company) is a rare 

vestige of Astoria’s working waterfront. The iconic 

building was severely damaged by a winter storm in 

December 2007. Today, the owners and a local non- 

rfit re r t rette t t t 

based art space. 

Owners: Royal and Sarah Nebeker 


JOHN MAIER : brewmaster at Rogue since 1989 

photography : Holly Andres

Libations 

submit Libations at 1859magazine.com/notebook 

The World in a Glass 

To our own doorstep and distilleries, Oregonians have brought the imbibing traditions of cultures 

from around the globe. Here are a few ways to sit down, grab a glass and travel the world. 

Wild Card - $50 

Oregon Spirit Distillers 

Bend 

Switzerland: Absinthe 

Known for high alcohol 

proof, green coloring 

and alleged psychoactive 

properties. Primary 

vrs sst se 

and sweet fennel. 

widcardabsinthe.com 

Blue Collar - $13 

Blue Dog Mead 

Eugene 

Asia, Europe, Africa: Mead 

Also called honey wine. 

Even mentioned in Beowulf, 

this prehistoric drink has 

e tr te es. 

buedogmead.com 

Grappa Moscato - $25 

Ransom Spirits 

Hood River 

Italy: Grappa 

A brandy made from 

pomace—the skins and 

seeds of grapes. Often 

drunk as a digestif. 

cearcreedistier.com 

Momokawa Silver - $13 

Sake One 

Forest Grove 

Japan: Sake 

A fermented rice wine 

beverage made since 

the “B.C.” era. Traditionally 

drunk warm in small 

ceramic cups, it is now 

typically served chilled. 

saeone.com 

Krogstad Aquavit - $29 

House Spirits Distillery 

Portland 

Scandinavia: Aquavit 

The grain or potatodistilled 

spirit appears 

much like vodka, but 

includes a combination 

of herbs, spices 

and fruit oil. 

housespirits.com 

Port of Choice 

re rt s rtfie ee stretee t te t ste 

grape spirit—produced in northern Portugal. Many wine regions around the 

world, however, have created “ports” derivative of the famed port style. Heavier 

and often sweeter than wine, port is decadent and smooth as a dessert wine. 

2006 Estate Pinot Noir Port | David Hill Winery | $35 | davidhillwinery.com 

2008 Portus Augustus | August Cellars | $25 | augustcellars.com 

2009 Port | Abacela Winery | $25 | abacela.com 

2008 Quinta Reserva | Willamette Valley Vineyards | $50 | wvv.com 

1999 Zinfandel Port | Hood River Vineyard | $38 | hoodrivervineyardsandwinery.com 


“Purveyor to Those 

Seeking the 

Finer Things in Life” 

1000 

500 

400 

300 

193 beautiful guest rooms 

Over120 local Oregon wines 

The finest in NW Cuisine 

Exceptional guest service 

Luxury downtown property 

The Grand Hotel: 503-540-7800 

Bentley’s Grill: 503-779-1660 

grandhotelsalem.com 

bentleysgrill.com 

201 Liberty Street SE, Salem Oregon

Goods & Gear 

submit Goods & Gear at 1859magazine.com/notebook 

Let your paint color 

be your guide. 

Design a stylish 

living room from 

r t e t 

a fresh coat of 

YOLO Colorhouse 

paint, and Oregonmade 

furniture and 

accessories. 

Embrace a color 

palette that will 

work with your exist- 

rtre fi 

new complementary 

piece to anchor the 

space to the walls 

and voilà—you’ve 

transformed your 

living space without 

a total redo. 

grain .06 

Air .03 

stone .02 

stone .07 

YOLO Colorhouse 

eefi t se 

2005, YOLO owners 

Virginia Young and Janie 

Lowe are pioneers in 

sustainable paint. Free 

of VOCs, toxins and 

pollutants and emitting 

negligible odor, this 

premium eco-paint is the 

clear choice. 

yolocolorhouse.com 

$44 per gallon 

Gracewood Design 

Cowgirls Floorcloth 

 

gracewooddesign.com 

Newport Layton 

Gran Slam Rust 

Pillow | $25 

newportlayton.com 

Roguewood Furniture 

Biomorphic Cocktail 

e 

roguewood.com 

Schoolhouse Electric & 

Supply Co. | Mulberry 

r 

schoolhouseelectric.com 


From office visits to x-rays, lab tests to life-saving treatments, we bring it all together for you. 

Whether you’re sick, healthy, or everything in-between, we’re here. Every day. 

Primary Care. Specialty Care. Urgent Care. Total Care. 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 31 

Bend Eastside Clinic | Bend Westside Clinic | Sisters | Redmond | bendmemorialclinic.com | Call 541-382-4900 to make an appointment

Goods & Gear 

submit Goods & Gear at 1859magazine.com/notebook 

 

TIPS 

leaf .05 

nourish .05 

water .06 

clay .05 

et s re 

your friend. A splash 

of color on a feature 

wall will add depth 

and dimension to the 

space without overwhelming 

it. Accent 

walls are also your 

chance to play with 

a heavily saturated 

color without the risk 

of turning your living 

room into a cave. 

etere te 

room's primary use. Is 

it a space to curl up 

with a book or a place 

where the kids play 

pictionary? Select a 

calming color or a 

vibrant color to correspond 

with the primary 

use of the space. 

FoxCraft Creations 

Light Switch Plates | $24 

foxcraftcreations.webs.com 

Ann Sacks 

Idowaku Ceramic Tile | $48 

6" x 12" | annsacks.com 

Flotsam Furniture 

Tess Lounger | $1,500 

otrtreoro 

Vitreluxe Glass Works 

Quilt Bottles | $2,200 

vitreluxe.com 

't e r t 

look up. Painting color 

on a ceiling can add 

appeal and depth. 


Take a long walk on the beach. 

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Around Oregon road reconsidered 

US101 

Oregon’s South Coast 

BANDON IS LIKE NO OTHER BEACH TOWN IN OREGON, and the locals like it that way. “It’s what’s not here 

that draws folks,” says Tony Roszkowski, the owner of Tony’s Crab Shack and Seafood Grill on the waterfront. “People 

come here to get away from the hustle of the city and simply enjoy the coast for what it is.” True to form, Roszkowski left 

the cable TV business in Queens, New York in 1989 to settle in Bandon. He started the Crab Shack in 1990 and hasn’t 

looked back. Stop in, toss a crab pot into the Coquille River Bay and cook the catch right there. 

“It’s a beautiful place,” says Hortense Joyce, turning on her Bandon Chamber of Commerce spin. “Newport has 

what it has. We have the rocks.” Table Rock is one of these monolithic attractions. Jutting prominently offshore from 

the cliffs at the southern edge of town, Table Rock is one of the many monoliths that dot Oregon’s southern coast. 

On a sunny day, waves crash over Table Rock and spill onto the shore with a mesmerizing cadence. In the winter, 

fierce swells pummel it. 

Traveling south of Bandon, Highway 101 swings slightly away from the sea. About milepost 276, you’ll see the major 

employer and processor of Bandon’s famed commodity—cranberry producer Ocean Spray. During the harvest months 

in the fall, you can see workers in the flooded bogs, getting cranberries ready for market. Gary Gant and his son, Gage, 

are among them. It’s a lifestyle that well suits them. “I’m my own boss,” says Gary. The climate in Bandon is perfect for 

cranberries and for him, too. Living alongside deer, elk and other wildlife adds to the experience. 

Farther south along the highway, you’ll pass Misty Meadows Homemade Jam shop at about milepost 278, and her 

jars of Bandon cranberry butter and jam. The southern coast has its art colonies, too. Myrtlewood Gallery, Woods of 

the Mist, Art 101 and Something Awesome wood carver all pass in rapid succession. Near milepost 282 

you’ll stumble upon something kitschy yet remarkable—the West Coast Game Park. Here, you can get as 

close as you want to a live cougar, bobcat or bear. 

written and photographed 

by Peter Murphy 

FRO TOP Coquille Lighthouse 

near Bandon. Bandon’s Old Town, 

a gem of the southern Oregon 


oad reconsidered 

Around Oregon 

“People come here to get away from 

the hustle of the city and simply enjoy 

the coast for what it is.” 

— Tony Roszkowski 

If being the prey at the West Coast Game Park has made you hungry, 

then consider stopping at the Langlois Market in Langlois near milepost 

288. John Kazmiersk, a videographer from Salem, stops there as often 

as he can for the hot dogs. “It’s worth making the trip to Langlois just for 

the dogs,” he suggests. Even Oregon’s top foodie, Gerry Frank, is known 

to go out of his way for one of these dogs. 

Passing Denmark, once a small community founded by Danes, the 

highway winds through dairy and logging country. Cape Blanco State 

Park, the westernmost point of Oregon, awaits at milepost 296. For 

lighthouse aficionados, tours resume again in April. 

Near Port Orford at milepost 300, you’ll swing back to ocean vistas. 

Port Orford is home to the Port Orford Heads State Park and historical 

lifeboat station. It was from here that heroic crews braved adverse ocean 

conditions to save many mariners between 1934 and 1970. The Chatham-style 

Coast Guard architecture of the officer-in-residence house 

from the 1930s is one of its finest preserved examples on the West Coast. 

Just to the south of today’s Port Orford, early pioneers came ashore 

at Battle Rock. They clashed with the Dene Tsut Dah, or “Ancient People” 

in 1851, sparking a battle between the two cultures. The settlers 

fled the battle after nine days, only to return later and establish the Port 

Orford colony. 

Rocky shoreline vistas run for miles here, broken by the promontory 

of Humbug Mountain. Stretch your legs at Humbug Mountain 

State Park where there are trails, overnight camping and a day-use area. 

Ophir State Park lays adjacent to the ocean at milepost 319. A tsunami 

siren in this park reminds visitors that the Cascadia subduction zone l 

sits offshore and has been responsible for incredible earthquakes along 

the coast in the past. 

Another reminder of pioneers’ conflicts with Native Americans is enshrined 

at the Giesel Monument, at milepost 322. This cemetery of the 

Giesel family, who died in skirmishes of the Rogue Indian Wars in 1855- 

1856, is a peaceful, secluded area—appropriate to commemorate all of 

those who lost their lives as settlers clashed with local tribes. 

European exploration of the southern Oregon Coast came much earlier, 

as a monument to San Sebastian notes at milepost 352. It was just 

fifty years after Columbus set foot in the West Indies that Spaniard explorer 

Sebastian Vizcaino viewed the cape, that is now named after the 

patron saint of that day of discovery back in 1542. 

Tiny Gold Beach awaits your discovery at milepost 377. Just south of 

the Rogue River, Gold Beach draws visitors from all over. Among other 

things, this is the launch port for jet boats that cruise up the Rogue River 

and the confluence where fishermen cast a line, hoping for the tug from 

a trophy salmon or steelhead. Excursions out of Gold Beach—once 

the site of hundreds of gold mine sites—have given rise to the moniker 

“Gold Coast” for this stretch of the southern Oregon oceanfront. Today 

the currency of the Gold Coast is weighed more on fish scales and tonnages 

of deep red cranberries than it is on precious metal scales. 

FRO TOP Harvesting a cranberry bog 

outside of Bandon. The monolith-strewn 

southern Oregon coast. Tony’s Crab Shack 

in Bandon. 

101 

Bandon 

Port Orford 

101 

To Coos Bay 

To Roseburg 

Rogue River 

Gold Beach 

To Brookings 

Highlights & Events 

B F 

 

 

B 

J B 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 3

Around Oregon 

72 hours 

Hours in Sisters 

written by Kevin Max 

photos by Erin Berg 

SOME TIME IN THE 1970s, LATE POET LAUREATE, WILLIAM STAFFORD, described his move 

to his coveted Sisters in the following verse: 

e e first ve ere e 

te trees r s re 

r s t te e 

ever t te e ... 

s esse e se t 

ts ver t e ee 

et res everere 

e re ve se rets 

ve sse s seret 

es est ses. 

r ts. 

Stafford would have looked southwest and seen the snow-capped Three Sisters, brilliant bulbs in the 

blue sky. He would have seen the pointy peak of Mt. Washington almost directly west and the perfect 

cone of Black Butte to the northwest. At his feet, hundreds of acres of good horse rangeland. All of this, 

secret places that moon rockets missed. 

Only a few hundred people called Sisters home at that time. Logging had come and gone. Lots at 

nearby Black Butte Ranch had just begun selling in 1970. The first Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show—now 

a bustling international “who’s who” of quilting—unfolded itself up the sides of the few buildings in the 

stamp-sized downtown. The Western-themed zoning ordinance took root. The community of Sisters 

had just started its journey. 

The law of small numbers aside, consider that Sisters’ population has doubled over the past ten years 

to 2,055. Even though Sisters is a tourism-driven economy, surpassing the 2,000 mark in year-round 

population means its shops are a little more viable, the restaurants serve a full menu during the 

week and the FivePine Lodge campus is pumping with residents who sent their own letters of 

domestic glee ending with Stafford’s instructions, Burn this. 


72 hours 

Around Oregon 

DAY 

CABINS • BREWS • MOTION PICS 

The first day usually means you’ve driven a good distance from 

somewhere else. It also is likely that, to get there, you’ve surfed 

over a mountain pass with snow as white as your knuckles. 

When you’ve put in that kind of nerve on the road, sometimes 

the best thing is just to find a cozy spot with a glass of wine or a 

pint of beer, and grab a book or see a movie you’ve been too busy 

to make. 

The FivePine Lodge on the east end of Sisters is part of a larger 

walking campus that can neatly accommodate all of those needs 

and more. And, thankfully, you don’t have to get behind the 

wheel again. 

The twenty-four cabins are tucked into the edge of a tall, handsome 

forest of straight Ponderosa pines on the outskirts of the 

Deschutes National Forest. These cabins are spacious with wideplanked 

wood floors, king beds, fireplaces, Vintage-style artwork 

from artist Paul Lanquist, and Mission-style furniture custom 

made by Pennsylvania and Ohio Amish. “They brought the furniture 

in by the truckload and then filled the trucks with apples 

from Hood River before returning home,” says Greg Willitts, 

FivePine Lodge facilities manager. 

In one of its romance suites, a large soaking tub is built into the 

corner of the living room, adjacent to the fireplace. My wife dials 

in the hot water and out it spouts from between cultured stones 

that form a partial embankment around the tub. Nobody puts 

baby in the corner ... unless, of course, it’s to relax in a soaking tub 

in the middle of the forest. 

The nearby Three Creeks Brewery serves comfort food and 

very good beer. The regimen includes a light and busty Knotty 

Blonde, a spicy Hoodoo Voodoo IPA and a lovely chocolate malt 

masquerading as a porter. The Clancy Brothers’ love song (I’ll a 

porter if I may, it makes me feel content and happy) influenced 

my desire this evening to be content and happy—twice, 

before we loaf it back to our cabin. 

Across the parking lot from Three Creeks Brewery is the Sisters 

Movie House, or perhaps more accurately, movie barn. Inside the 

modern red barn, first-run blockbuster movies play across four 

screens. A full cafe serves food, beer and wine. 

OPPOSITE A horse ranch with Three Sisters in 

view. RIGHT (Top to bottom) Cabins at Five- 

Pine. At Three Creeks Brewery. Sisters ovie 

House. 


Around Oregon 

photo by Ben Krause 

72 hours 

TOP TO BOTTO Sisters Bakery. Old fashioned doughnuts. en’s 

Garden. Three Sisters Backcountry yurt. Dining at The Porch. 

DAY 

DOUGHNUTS • SNOWSPORTS • GOOD EATS 

Mornings in Sisters take on the pastoral images of rebirth—a low sun slanting 

through tall pines and casting patterns of sun and shadow across the 

soft floor of the forest. It’s easy to forget that the rest of the world exists and 

not bother with what’s going on outside. Whatever they’re doing, chances 

are they’re not getting baked goods at Sisters Bakery before heading up to 

ski. Once the Leithauser General Store, built in the mid-1920s, it is now the 

Sisters Bakery—a throwback to a time when made-fresh daily doughnuts 

reigned without apology or remorse. 

I’m three back in the line and anxiously taking in the last apple fritter out 

of the corner of my eye. It’s a must-win situation for me. The worst thing 

you can do is over-value the fritter in the jewel case with a direct stare and 

risk tipping off others with your selection priority. 

The first of the two in line, I have pegged as a Maple Bar Standard—in his 

20s, trucker hat touting nonsense and jeans falling off him like loose skin. 

“Umm, two ahhh two mable bars, please.” Bakery profiling has its scholars. 

The second in line and the final obstacle to the last fritter, is more enigmatic. 

She’s wearing jeans and what could be a Patagonia, Columbia or REI 

jacket. She’s appears to be closer to my age (not so old that she’s a straightticket 

Sour Cream Old Fashioned gal) and could have been raised in the 

Golden Era of the Fritter. 

“I’d like a total of four doughnuts.” Her words shatter what’s left of my 

tenuous bakery patience as I nearly bark, “What the Fritter!?” I’ve been in 

this situation before, though, and experience makes a difference. I focus 

my attention on the cream-filled doughnuts in the case. “Two Bismarks 

and two buttermilk bars.” I should have known! The hoop earrings are a 

dead giveaway I overlooked. I played a fundamentally sound game and 

won. Joyous fritter! 

A little more than twenty miles up Highway 20 and the Santiam Pass, 

is Hoodoo Ski Area. Hoodoo will remind you of some of the smaller resorts 

from an earlier era of skiing. It has thirty-two runs over a vertical 

drop of 1,035 feet. At the bottom of it all is a new lodge with rentals, a 

restaurant and bar. Since most of the skiing happens on the face visible 

from the lodge, parents can keep track of their kids from the bar, if need 

be. For kids, there’s also one of the state’s most extensive tubing parks on 

the other side of the lodge. 

Ski alternative: If you want to earn your own turns and bomb fresh 

powder from Broken Top or the Three Sisters peaks, book ahead of 

time at Three Sisters Backcountry. With two yurts and full kitchens 

that share a wood-fired sauna at the base of Tam McArthur Rim, this 

is a wilderness treat. 

Another possibility is to stop in Camp Sherman, just a few miles 

up the pass for fly-fishing’s other productive season on the pristine 

Metolius River. 

There are certain institutions in Sisters whose regular visitation defies 

debate. One of those is Jen’s Garden, a tiny cottage with enormously 

flavorful food. Co-owners T.R. and Jen McCrystal, along with chef Caryl 

Hosler, would be a culinary force anywhere. There’s a five-course prix fixe, 

a three-course prix fixe and an a la carte menu that offers dishes such as 

risotto with baby shiitakes, Rogue Creamery blue cheese and roasted hazelnuts 

for a first course, beef tenderloin in a brandy and green peppercorn 

sauce with pommes frites for a second, and chocolate orange pot au 

crême for dessert. 

A small-plate alternative is The Porch, a combination of gourmet, 

comfort food and small portions. Fried mac and cheese with smoked 

gouda and sage, duck confit empanadas, and shrimp and grits are just a 

few bites to share on this creative menu. 


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Around Oregon 

72 hours 

DAY 

CAFFEINE • SHOP • R&R 

Skiing or snowboarding may have beaten up your body 

a bit. Fortunately there are a number of remedies and 

no two the same. 

FivePine campus includes the intimate and luxurious 

Shibui Spa. Herein sits a 125-year-old Buddha, a beautiful 

Japanese soaking tub and a number of treatment 

rooms where healing begins. 

Another proven remedy is the contrarian postulate 

that soreness loves exercise. The Sisters Trail network 

weaves its way behind the lodge. There you can trail run 

for miles through the forest and connect up to the Peterson 

Ridge Trail. If there’s no snow at that elevation, 

bring your mountain bike for a mild and beautiful ride. 

Finally there’s doubling down on baked goods. Macbeth 

best said “blood will have blood.” In a town of 2,000, 

there are shockingly good options. Angeline’s Bakery 

and Sisters Coffee Company are two exceptional cafes. 

Angeline’s specializes in gluten free and vegan fare—the 

kinds of things that you could eat daily without guilt. 

Take something from Angeline’s or a house-baked 

scone from Sisters Coffee Company on a walkabout as 

you shop for your parting Western souvenir. Leavitt’s 

Western Wear on Cascade Avenue has it all—authentic 

boots, hats, Pendleton blankets and belt buckles. 

A little farther down Cascade, Antler Arts is another 

Sisters one-of-a-kind. This is where to find your 

thirty-point antler chandelier and other antler- or 

hide-related items. The galleries such as Clearwater 

Gallery and Canyon Creek Pottery are worth browsing. 

Who knows in which little gallery you’ll find the 

next Georgia O’Keefe or Bernard Leach. 

On your way back home along one of the most scenic 

drives over the Santiam Pass, stop in Black Butte 

Ranch for a salmon quesadilla or a bowl of chowder at 

the lodge restaurant with views of the Cascades. Take 

it all in from the past three days and write a postcard to 

a friend about this place that moon rockets thankfully 

missed. End with, Burn this. 

CLOCKWISE Antler Arts. Leavitt’s Western Wear. Sisters Coffee Company. Canyon Creek Pottery. 

Ere Sisters 

To Eugene 

WHERE TO STAY 

FivePine Lodge 

fiveee. 

WHAT TO DO 

t Hoodoo 

. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Jen’s Garden 

tte ttese. 

20 

Hood Ave. 

Adams Ave. 

Main Ave. 

Cascade Ave. 

Jefferson Ave. 

20 

Lake Creek Lodge 

er 

ereee. 

Best Western 

Ponderosa Lodge 

estesterssters. 

tr s t 

Three Sisters Backcountry 

treessterstr. 

t Shibui 

ss. 

ester tee s 

The Porch 

. E treet 

Three Creeks Brewery 

treereesre. 

Bronco Billy’s 

rsrr. 

Los Agaves 

svesssters. 

McKenzie-Bend HWY 

Locust St. 


Sisters Bakery 

sstersee. 

Angeline’s Bakery 

eeser. 

Sisters Coffee Company 

sstersee.

SISTERS COUNTRY PHOTOGRAPHY 

HOODOO 


OUTLAWPHOTOGRAPHY.NET 

Find your pioneering spirit 

in Sisters Country 

Make your escape to the gateway to Central Oregon, where the 

air is clear, the stars are bright, and the sun is warm. Discover all 

of the hidden treasures in our unique, owner-operated shops, 

embrace the art at galleries, dine at one of our many restaurants, 

or enjoy a special event. Book your stay at one of our world-class 

lodging properties, hit the slopes or tubing hill or simply kick 

back, take a deep breath and be mesmerized by majestic mountain 

views. 

Similar to settlers years ago, come discover for yourself everything 

that Sisters Country has to offer. 

Begin your Sisters Country adventure at www.SistersCountry.com 


SISTERS AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 

www.SistersCountry.com 

Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce 866.549.0252 

For a limited time call 

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Bend's only restaurant designed 

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estaurant 

1859 Dine 

Around Oregon 

1859 Dine 

review 

Comfort 

Food 

 

 

 

 

 

heap entrees less than 

Average entrees - 

pensive entrees - 

alf a paycheck entrees and up 

A atings are ased on a four-star scale 

**** cellent food, creative items and top-notch service. 

*** ood food, good value and nothing elow reasonale epectations. 

** wo stars are given to restaurants that are adequate ut 

need improvement. ou wouldn’t go out of your way to eat 

there again unless changes in quality and menu were made. 

* ne star is reserved for places that you would not recommend 

under almost any circumstances. 

ropose a restaurant you’d like us to review at adminmagaine.com. 

Pine State Biscuits 

Two locations: 

3640 SE Belmont Street, Portland | 2204 NE Alberta Street, Portland 

pinestatebiscuits.com. 

 

**** 

Needing to fuel a healthy appetite? Curious about the Food Network’s buzz on a joint in Portland that serves, of all things, biscuits? Pine State 

Biscuits delivers on the buzz like a fairy godmother, transforming simple biscuits into gourmet adventures. From hungry families to hangover 

cure (evidenced by the line of taxis often seen dropping off blurry eyed patrons on a Sunday morning), Pine State Biscuits is for one and all. 

Don’t let the line that spills outside and snarls around the block scare you away—they mean business. It is an order-first, seat-second kind of 

joint, as posted at the door. In short: Order. Eat. Clear. With the exception of shrimp and grits, everything at Pine State is served on a biscuit. 

Comfort food at its finest. The acclaimed entrée is The Reggie: fried chicken, bacon and cheese topped with gravy choice. For those who need 

a token green with their biscuits and gravy, try The Regina, eggs over easy topped with collard greens and doused with Texas Pete Hot Sauce. 

For a lunch or dinner style option, there is the BBQ biscuit: pulled pork from Portland’s own Podnah’s Pit BBQ (previously reviewed in 1859) 

topped with slaw. A heavenly side of hashbrowns completes any order, or try Hash Ups—hashbrowns with country ham or flank steak, grilled 

onions, mushrooms and melted cheese. You won’t need to eat again for a week. Though with price points of $2 to $8 for just about every menu 

item, Pine State Biscuits could become a weekly stop. And good news for night owls with late night munchies, the Alberta location stays open 

until 1 a.m. on weekends. 


Around Oregon 

1859 Dine 

Screen Door 

2337 E Burnside Street, Portland 

screendoorrestaurant.com 

 

**** 

Screen Door on E Burnside is a lovely place to be on a windblown 

rainy night in Portland. While most other restaurants 

in the area are but half full, Screen Door is standing room only, 

with people who have come for the comfort and left their calorie 

counters at home next to their yoga crystals. The cuisine here 

ranges from South Carolina low-country, to Cajun and Creole. 

The crispy fried buttermilk-battered chicken served in tasso 

ham gravy with mashed potatoes and collards ($15.75) is a star 

attraction. A veteran Screen Door diner counsels us not to miss 

the butter lettuce salad ($7.50) with radish, blue cheese, bacon 

and buttermilk dressing. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. The 

appetizer special is a cane syrup and chili-glazed pork belly over 

spoonbread with a butternut squash purée and topped with 

toasted pumpkin seeds and arugula ($9.95). You’ll want to split 

the fried chicken with your date to get a chance at her Cascade 

Natural barbeque beef brisket, topped with crispy fried onions 

and a complement of horseradish-bacon potato salad ($15.75). 

Though crowded, the service is professional, excellent and not 

just along for the fried chicken as we are. 

Papa’s Soul Food Kitchen 

400 Blair Blvd., Eugene 

541.342.7500 

 

 

 

***1/2 

A trip to Papa’s Soul Food is a bit like sitting down in the kitchen 

of a Southern culinary genius. The restaurant is cozy, with about a 

dozen plain wooden tables and music posters adorning the walls. 

The waitstaff is friendly, but the food is what really shines here. 

The hot plates, which come with an entrée and two sides, are the 

best deal. The BBQ ribs and BBQ pulled pork ($10) melt in your 

mouth and are slathered in a delicious sauce. The fried chicken 

($10) or baked jerk chicken ($9) are decent alternatives. When it 

comes to picking sides, the yams and collard greens are both quite 

good, but it’s worth paying the extra $1 for the mac and cheese 

or the fried okra. This is a place where you should expect to go 

home with leftovers, but if you happen to have some room left in 

your stomach, it’s definitely worth trying the bread pudding ($5). 

Served in portions big enough for four people and sitting in a pool 

of caramel or bourbon sauce, this rich dessert will send you out 

into the night warm, happy, and wondering when your waistline 

will allow you to make a return trip. 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013

A Dining Oasis In The Heart of The City 

LIVING 

Celebrating 40 Years! 

The legendary 

Veritable Quandary 

1220 SW FIRST AVENUE • 503 227 7342 • WWW.VERITABLEQUANDARY.COM 

LARGE 

music. 

arts. 

culture. 

12:15 to 3 pm 

mon to fri

A celebration 

of thinkers, 

makers 

and doers. 

91.5 FM

Local Habit 

Powerful 

posters 

+ 

Gus Van Sant 

49 Artist in Residence 

J 

 

52 From Where I Stand 

A 

B 

54 Top Five 

 

 

photo by oni Kabana 

Artist in Residence 

J

artist in residence 

Local Habit 

Power & the Poster 

Joe Wirtheim mixes 

art with health advocacy 

written by LeeAnn DiSanti 

photos by Joni Kabana 

AS IF IT WERE A SEEDLING, Joe Wirtheim’s 

artistic vision took time, care, processed foods 

and creativity to take root. 

An accomplished surrealist painter encouraged the 

artist to break new ground with his graphics and illustrations. 

Wirtheim soon became the driving force 

for “The Victory Garden of Tomorrow”—a growing 

collection of handmade screenprints, posters, clothing 

and kitchenware that motivate others to “Eat Real 

Food” and plant personal gardens. 

In 2005, while he was in design school, he started 

working at a summer camp in Columbus, Ohio. “I was 

looking at what we were feeding these kids,” says Wirtheim, 

now 35. “A lot of the kids were overweight. They 

were eating crackers and a lot of processed or packaged 

foods.” 

He reached a breaking point that same year, when 

Columbus once again made the top twenty most overweight 

cities in the United States. He researched the 

matter, finding a shock-inducing rise in obesity and 

diabetes rates. 

“A lot of these food products that are being served 

to people are just that, ‘products,’” Wirtheim says. 

“They’re not necessarily a whole food.” 

In 2007, he moved to Portland, home to a burgeoning 

farm-to-table movement. Here, Wirtheim studied 

communications at Portland State University. This is 

where he was first exposed to persuasive media and 

poster making. 

“The poster has been a tool of propaganda for a 

long time because of its speed of conveyance and 

the latitude of people it can access,” says Wirtheim. 

Drawing from his childhood love of comic book illustrations, 

he began designing graphics. The 

brightly pigmented images conveyed positive 

messages to grow food, to raise chickens or to 

cultivate healthier lifestyles. He called the project, 

“The Victory Garden of Tomorrow.” 

“The Victory Garden empowered a home- 

A J 

 


Local Habit 

artist in residence 

grown, smaller-scale, whole food idea,” he says, citing a time during World 

War I, when Americans were encouraged to grow their own food to alleviate 

pressure on the agricultural industry. Wirtheim was also influenced 

by the 1939 New York World’s Fair, which encouraged innovation and 

progress with its tagline “The World of Tomorrow.” 

“I combined those sentiments—the Victory Garden with the excitement 

of technology and progress,” he explains. 

“Using our imagination, we can re-imagine a 

very exciting, healthful urban environment.” 

In 2008, Wirtheim opened shop on Etsy, a 

website for boutique business owners to sell 

their creations. He also partnered with smallscale 

screenprinters and print shops in Portland 

to bring his designs to life. 

In 2010, a national magazine caught wind 

of The Victory Garden’s sprouting popularity 

and published a short piece on the artist’s 

prints. “I wasn’t prepared,” he says, laughing. 

“I didn’t know what it meant when I said, ‘Sure, you could put it in your 

magazine.’” 

It meant a deluge of attention. At the time, he was still a student, operating 

the growing business out of his bedroom. “It was just silly,” the artist 

recalls. “My bed basically became my work counter.” 

The wave of publicity also brought in dozens of emails from small farms, 

co-ops and nonprofits around the country, asking him to create custom 

“The Victory Garden 

empowered a homegrown, 

smaller-scale, 

whole food idea.” 

logos or poster designs for free. Wirtheim didn’t blanch at the pro bono 

opportunities, saying it was the type of work he could truly get behind. 

One such collaborative piece he developed when a woman living in a 

small town in Illinois began lobbying her city council to keep hens in her 

yard. Wirtheim allowed her to post his prints around town to garner support, 

and the vote eventually passed in her favor. 

In gratitude, she sent Wirtheim photos of kids 

holding her hens. Amused, he created his own 

graphic based on the pictures and titled the poster 

“Girl Hearts Hen”—one of the many iconic prints 

on his website. 

“Each design ends up having its own story and 

touches on a special community,” he says. “Having 

my original ideas is great, too, but taking inspiration 

from a community program or something unexpected—what 

people are doing in the real world— 

brings more meaning to some of these designs.” 

The artist is breaking new ground once again; 

this time, on foreign soil. Wirtheim gave up his Portland art studio to 

spend a year teaching English in South Korea, bringing his art along with 

him. He is steadfastly rooted in his project, planning new illustrations 

based on his journey through cities abroad. 

“If tomorrow is going to be more of an urban place, it’s going to be a 

place where we rediscover our urban life and our sensibilities, but it 

doesn’t have to be this gritty, concrete and steel jungle,” says Wirtheim. 

—Joe Wirtheim 

To view Wirtheim’s work online, visit victorygardenoftomorrow.com 


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Around Oregon 

from where I stand 

Klamath 

Falls 

ere ters r fit 

ter re r st 

written by Megan Oliver 

photos by Jarib Porter 

SIOBHAN COOPER WAS A MED STUDENT at the University of Arkansas 

looking for a rural residency program. Her husband was a water 

quality specialist seeking a basin to study. This young couple might as well 

have had Klamath Falls created especially for them. 

“Klamath Falls was our number one choice,” says Cooper, the brightness 

of her voice tempered from long hours of work in the medical field. 

Now one year into Cooper’s three-year rural family medicine program, the 

dream is a reality for these two Oregon transplants. “For such a small town 

to have a residency program is great,” says Cooper, 35. 

Cooper’s husband, Liam Schenk, works for the U.S. Geological Survey. 

For a water specialist, this territory provides endless opportunity and revelation 

for all things related to water. The first surprise for newcomers to the 

rolling hills and northern expanse of the Great Basin is the abundance of 

still water. There are no roaring falls at the center of town, as its name suggests. 

Almost a square mile of the city is part of Upper Klamath Lake, the 

largest freshwater lake in Oregon by surface area. 

The large lake is just a small portion of the Klamath Basin—a watershed 

network that spans fifteen thousand square miles, extending into northern 

California (the border is just twenty miles south). For residents of Klamath 

Falls, it’s a few hours’ drive to bigger cities, but Crater Lake is a short drive, 

and snow-capped Mount Shasta is an hour south of the state line. 

Water is truly the lightening rod of Klamath Falls. The “water wars” made 

Klamath Falls a national news story in the early 2000s. During a drought in 

2001, a court ordered crucial farming irrigation shut to maintain river flows 

and fish protected under the Endangered Species Act. Farmers and others, 

fearing the loss of livelihood, protested with a massive bucket brigade, and 

the court ruling was eventually reversed. With that precious water diverted 

from the Klamath and Trinity rivers for irrigation, the river levels sank while 

the water temperature rose, and one of the largest fish kills in U.S. 

history ensued. 

Historically, Native American tribes in this area faced adversity since 

the settlers first arrived in the Klamath Basin. Today, however, the Klamath 

Tribe is playing a large role in the water-rights debate, as the tribe owns a 

crucial portion of the watershed. Discussion is lively, and though no party 

will walk away totally appeased, this community is working toward innovative 

solutions. 

Water—rather hot water—is also at the forefront of Klamath Falls’ energy 

solutions. A geothermal hot springs outside of town has been providing 

heat to much of Klamath Falls for more than two decades. Downtown, 

government buildings, the Oregon Institute of Technology, public schools, 

many homes and even snowmelt systems for sidewalks are all heated by 

geothermal power. In this regard, Klamath Falls could be a national model 

for the broader future of energy. 

Anyone who has driven south on U.S. Highway 97, and into the heart 

of historic downtown Klamath Falls, has seen its pre-WWII Art Deco architectural 

heyday. The well-maintained Ross Ragland Theater and Oregon 

Bank Building (complete with one of the last remaining elevator operators 

on the West Coast) are two standout reminders of the stylish whim that accompanied 

the 1920s. Newer additions among the Art Déco history signify 

Klamath Falls’ steadfast ability to reinvent itself for modern uses. 

The Ledge, for example, is a massive state-of-the-art climbing gym and 

gear shop combination that gives residents a place to convene for exercise 

in the winter months and beyond. The Oregon Wine Cellar is an underground 

beer and wine lover’s paradise in downtown. Cooper and 

Schenk often go to Leap of Taste cafe and deli for its good coffee 

and local food. Even on a weekday afternoon, the communal 

2 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE JAN | FEB 2013

from where I stand 

Around Oregon 

space at Leap of Taste is abuzz with conversation and live music. 

The city’s website describes Klamath Falls as a “city in transition,” 

a seemingly valid description. There is a revival in the air 

in Klamath Falls. After the timber industry boom went bust, 

the Jeld-Wen window and door manufacturing plant headquarters 

was the primary employer. Naturally, the collapse 

of the housing market bruised Jeld-Wen’s business, eventually 

leading to a takeover by Canadian investment firm, Onyx. 

Cooper works for Klamath Falls’ current largest employer— 

Sky Lakes Medical Center. 

“Klamath Falls has an incredibly sophisticated medical community 

for an isolated, rural, small community,” says Dr. Karl 

Wenner, Cooper’s mentor and a twenty-three-year resident 

in the community. Wenner—an orthopedic surgeon—and his 

wife, Anne, serve on a variety of boards and committees in 

Klamath Falls. They were drawn to the topography. “When I 

was looking for a place to continue my rural medicine career, 

I found the topographical maps of each program’s geographical 

region, and Klamath Falls had, by far, the most interesting 

terrain,” reflects Wenner. He was sold, and they moved from 

North Carolina to start a family in Southern Oregon. 

With their own first baby due in April, Cooper and Schenk 

are also starting a family in Klamath Falls. “A lot of the people 

who are new to the area, many from California, are in love 

with the place like us,” says Cooper. “They say this is the town 

for them.” 

Livability in Oregon, however, begins with craft beer, and so 

much the better if it’s made in a converted creamery and from 

geothermal power. Klamath Basin Brewing Company, or what 

locals refer to as “The Creamery,” is such a place, built in the old 

Crater Lake Creamery and opened in 2005. Aside large steel 

tanks, brewmasters work their magic making the only beer in 

the world purely from geothermal energy. 

Aside from its capital projects, birds are also a key to Klamath 

Falls’ redevelopment. Birding and bird hunting define Klamath 

Falls’ niche in the naturalist and outdoorsman communities. 

The landscape is flocked with unfathomable numbers and varieties 

of birds. More than a million waterfowl alone stopover 

in the region’s marshes and lakes. The bald eagle population is 

thought to be in quadruple digits (the highest concentration in 

the contiguous forty-eight states). Altogether, nearly 400 species 

of birds have been observed in the Klamath Basin area, making 

it the who’s who in bird watching along the Pacific Flyway. 

Located ten miles outside downtown, Running Y Ranch is 

its own breed of elusive bird—a locally owned resort. The resort 

genuinely welcomes locals, in addition to offering relaxing 

and modern lodge accommodations and fine dining in comfort 

food style, with an Arnold Palmer golf course. The Bill Collier 

Ice Arena at the entrance to Running Y is a mainstay for locals 

who play school and adult club hockey and participate in the 

curling league on Sundays. 

Wenner cites the classic contradiction regarding his town. 

“The downside is that Klamath Falls hasn’t been discovered yet, 

and the upside is that it hasn’t been discovered yet.” 

Klamath Falls 

INFO 

Population of Klamath Falls 

21,120 

Population growth (2000-2011) 

+8.5% 

Median household income 

$33,203 

Median single-family home price 

$119,500 

FRO TOP 190 Art Dcostyle 

Ross Ragland Theater. 

One of the last remaining 

elevator operators in North 

America. Siobhan Cooper 

and her husband, Liam 

Schenk in downtown Klamath 

Falls. 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE JAN | FEB 2013 3

Local Habit 

top 5 

TOP 5 

s ts ress r fis 

N A F 

B F 18 F 

 

E A 

F N 

B A 

 

 

A CHALLENGE 

It was so hard to do at rst that it presented a 

challenge for me. 

ALLURING PUZZLE 

It’s also the challenge extended beyond the craft 

of making lms to the ability to rally enough 

help from people to put together a lm, which 

is a big puzzle and another kind of challenge. 

Putting together that puzzle is absolutely absorbing, 

and seemingly insurmountable and, 

therefore, alluring. 

PRESENTATION 

aking lms can bring you into worlds that you 

are interested in. So as you are studying a subject, 

you are also preparing a presentation that is about 

that subject, which will hopefully be amazing. 

MULTIPLE DISCIPLINES 

Working with all the different artistic disciplinessound, 

photography, light, story, actingwhich 

I’d also consider, together, insurmountable, 

one never feels like they have truly 

mastered these. 

photo by oni Kabana 

COMMUNICATION 

Communication with people, which was perhaps 

the original reason to get involved with 

cinema, can be sometimes important and sometimes 

just a bunch of fun. 


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Ventures 

Getting 

creative with 

Tim Gallagher 

58 Into the Soul 

 

 

60 e Profile 

B 

 

62 What I’m Working On 

A 

 

64 Game Changers 

 

 

photo by Leah Nash 

Into the Soul 

The workspace of Tim Gallagher.

Into the sou 

Tim Gallagher : 

Gallagher 

Designs 

written by Addie Hahn 

photo by Leah Nash 

IN THE SUMMER OF 2012, Gallagher Designs 

employees put their ingenious stamp on a client’s 

vacation home in Bend. Team members created a 

custom antler chandelier, welded a fire pit, built a 

bunkroom for children complete with canvas tent 

covers, and used a laser to etch local topography 

lines onto stair risers. 

“Our favorite thing was the reclaimed ski lift we 

made into a swing and hung on the porch,” recalls 

founder and creative visionary Tim Gallagher, 45. 

Gallagher Designs, based in the Portland area, 

specializes in cutting-edge industrial design with 

projects that range from the petite (a custom doghouse-shaped 

shoebox for a pair of Snoop Dogg-inspired 

Adidas) to oversized semi-trucks converted 

into “interactive playgrounds” for adults and kids 

alike. Their work is fueled by an intimate knowledge 

of materials and an unmistakable gift for innovation. 

Recently, the company designed a line of contemporary 

logos and apparel for Rhino Lacrosse 

and crafted a stylish guitar-shaped case that holds 

customized lacrosse balls, an iPhone cover, headphones, 

a hat and a stick. 

For Nike, Gallagher transformed an empty shipping 

container into a sleek black traveling space 

known as The Boom Truck, where visitors can design 

their own T-shirts, buy products and view football 

stats on a big screen. 

Gallagher, who grew up in Medford, discovered 

his true love after enrolling in art classes at the University 

of Oregon. Post-graduation, he drove a truck 

through the Pacific Northwest filled with his handmade 

wares. This wandering art show was the first 

incarnation of Gallagher Designs. 

Today the business operates out of two spaces: a 

warehouse in the suburb of Beaverton, and a house 

in Portland’s Northwest neighborhood next to the 

Gallagher family home—which makes for a recordtime 

commute for the owner. 

“I will be honest,” Gallagher says, reflecting on his 

work. “Like with everything, there are good days and 

there are trying days, but at the end of it all, I feel very 

lucky every day.” In fact, he notes, “The phrase ‘Lucky 

Every Day’ is actually written on my bedroom door. 

8 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE JAN | FEB 2013 

You can view Gallagher Designs at 

gallagherdesigns.com

Ventures 

business proe 

te r 

te 

written by Jennifer Hughes 

photo by Aubrie LeGault 

r er ee re 

Bob oore outside Bob’s 

Red ill in ilwaukie. 

BOB MOORE STILL LOOKS LIKE HIS OWN FACSIMILE cast years ago 

for the Bob’s Red Mill steel cut oats label. The 83-year-old founder, president 

and CEO of Bob’s Red Mill stands against the wall with his arms crossed 

against his unbuttoned red vest. His tan flat cap fits snugly on his head, hiding 

the white hair that his beard hasn’t claimed for itself. In the right-hand 

corner of each bag of oats is an electronically scrawled, “Bob,” just as he has 

implored his employees to call him for forty years. 

Today, Bob’s Red Mill, headquartered in Milwaukie, encompasses 

325,000 square feet and seventeen acres. It contains a gluten-free building, a 

non wheat-free facility, a mechanical engineering shop, several food testing 

labs and massive storage rooms. Truckloads of more than 400 whole grain 

products are conveyed through the warehouse before being 

loaded onto trucks and sent around the world. 

Though Bob’s Red Mill is global, Moore never intended 

for his mill to evolve into a worldwide company. When he 

opened Moore’s Flour Mill with two of his three sons in 

Redding, California in 1973, the response was overwhelming. 

The three parking spaces out front were constantly 

filled with customers, while others parked along the roadside. 

Moore was happy selling whole grain products out of 

his storefront, without any intentions to expand. 

“But it was really kind of naïve to think that three families 

were going to make a living out of that place,” says Moore 

now, sitting in his Milwaukie office. 

Five years after Bob opened the mill in Redding, he and his wife moved 

to Portland, while his two sons continued to operate Moore’s Flour Mill, 

which is still in business today. In Portland, Moore was a retired man. He 

audited classes at Western Evangelical Seminary school—now George Fox 

University. In his spare time, he tutored fellow students and walked each 

day for miles with his wife for exercise. 

“Being retired under the age of 50, was um … ” Moore’s voice trails 

off, not finding the right words. Changing tack, he rejoins, “One day, 

Charlee and I walked down Roethe Road and there was a flour mill with 

Me te r 

etter e. 

t te t t 

s t ese 

s tere t ?” 

a ‘for sale’ sign on the property.” 

The mill had been empty for years, but through the windows, Moore 

saw bucket elevators and machinery that was too providential for him 

to ignore. A few phone calls later, he had rented the mill with an option 

to buy. Three months later, in 1978, he opened Moore’s Flour Mill, now 

known as Bob’s Red Mill. 

“The interest in whole grains came from the book John Goffe’s Mill, by 

John Woodbury, and 1930s and ‘40s writers who were wee voices in the 

wilderness as far as healthy eating was concerned. They were getting away 

from white flour and all the evils of white sugar—all of which have become 

more evil,” says Moore. “The big thing that inspired me was that Woodbury 

didn’t know anything about milling when he started, and I 

thought, ‘If this bugger can do it, then so can I.’” 

The reception from the Portland population was unlike 

anything Moore had ever experienced. People lined up 

outside his store, the local news crew came, and it wasn’t 

long before Fred Meyer’s buyer was interested in carrying 

Bob’s Red Mill products in each of its forty-four stores. By 

the end of 2012, Moore expects sales to reach $130 million. 

Walking through the mill today, the miller is in his world. 

His quick gait is no indication of his age. He greets each 

employee by name, with a smile beaming across his face. 

He passes assembly lines of machines filling bags with flour 

and depositing them into assembled boxes. In front of one of the mills, his 

long-time executive assistant, Nancy Garner, flags him down for a photo. 

Trucks enter the warehouse empty and depart full of products: quinoa, rice 

flour, ten-grain cereal and whole wheat flour. 

Though Moore turned 83 in January, he has no plans to retire. He loves 

coming to the mill everyday; seeing his 250 employees share three operational 

shifts. The place never shuts down. 

No matter what Moore is selling, it’s his philosophy that guides decisions 

like these. “Make the world a better place. Can’t take it with you, so what else 

is there to do?” 


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Ventures 

what i'm woring on 

Beyond the 

Oregon Trail 

ALMOST FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, SUE ALPERIN, together with a crosscultural 

group of Oregonians, changed history. Alperin, a founder of 

Oregon Uniting, was interested in providing a broader perspective 

of the history of Oregon—one which acknowledged its ugly institutional 

racism alongside the accomplishments of those oppressed by 

those laws. Alperin helped recruit representatives of the major ethnic 

groups in Oregon to build a curriculum that would come to be called 

Beyond the Oregon Trail (BTOT). These are the stories of Oregon laws 

that condemned minorities and the inspiring people who fought 

against them to make Oregon what it is today. Currently, Portland 

Public Schools has adopted BTOT for middle school social 

science teachers, but outside of Portland, the curriculum 

is scarce. We sat down with Alperin to talk about Beyond 

the Oregon Trail and its future. 

interview by Kevin Max 

photos by Fritz Liedtke 

What was the genesis for the Beyond the Oregon Trail curriculum? 

In 1999, a new organization, Oregon Uniting, sponsored “A Day of Acknowledgment,” an event in Salem attended by leaders of many ethnic groups, 

the governor, the Oregon Legislature, former Senator Mark Hatfield and Oregonians from all over the state. It was an occasion to recognize the racist 

and exclusionary laws that had been written into both the state and the federal constitutions and to acknowledge their impact on the lives of people of 

color throughout our history. It was also a time to celebrate those individuals who fought throughout their lives to rescind and overcome the effects of 

the laws. Further, it was a kick off to Oregon Uniting’s plan to offer interracial community dialogues at a local level. Governor Kitzhaber and the Oregon 

Legislature declared “A Day of Acknowledgement,” recognizing this discriminatory history and its lingering effects. From this day emerged the initiative 

to create a school curriculum to help students expand their knowledge of the history of all Oregon’s people. 

Who were the early advocates? 

Norrine Smokey Smith, director of Indian education; Portland Public Schools; Carolyn Leonard, administrator and compliance officer at Portland Public 

Schools; Dave Stout, dean of English and modern languages at Portland Community College; Floy Pepper, Indian educator, author, and curriculum writer; 

Karen Ettinger, director of the Global and Multicultural Resource Center, World Affairs Council; Marie Langenes of Kids Like Languages; and teachers, 

Janet Kakishita and Alfonso Vilches. 

What interested you the most about this project? 

All of my adult life, I have had an interest and involvement in intercultural issues and race relations. I was also aware of the absence of diversity and inclusiveness 

in what our children learned. So when I saw that this was an opportunity to bring to the table representatives of all the major ethnic groups who 

had not seen their history told, I jumped at the chance to be a part of it. 

What is the problem with how history is now being taught? 

I want to preface my answer with the statement that there are many teachers in Oregon who are offering a much broader perspective—as well as a challenge to their 

students to dig deeper and learn what really was and is the reality of our history. That said, much of the material available simply fails to acknowledge that there have 

been people of color in our state from the beginning and that they played major roles in its development despite the numerous discriminatory laws directed at them. 

There were laws prohibiting blacks from living here until 1926 and requiring that “Indians” live on reservations, to levying extra taxes on Chinese businesses and 

interning Japanese American citizens during World War II. So, there are gaping holes in the Oregon history that is commonly taught that we want to help teachers 

across the state illuminate. 


what i'm woring on 

Ventures 

What are the major differences between the BTOT history and 

that of its predecessors? 

It is a challenge to find student material where this history is presented. As far 

as an actual age-appropriate eighth grade curriculum with well-designed lesson 

plans, a broad base of material and resources for additional information, 

I think ours is the only one of its kind. This is not meant to be a replacement 

for currently used material. This is a modest effort to supplement what is presently 

available to teachers. We offer teachers a racially inclusive, historically 

accurate and well-designed curriculum they can add to their 

students’ knowledge. 

Can you give us an example of where the 

white male version of Oregon history gets it 

wrong? 

There are many, but one that many of your readers can probably 

relate to is the idea of Manifest Destiny. That was a guiding 

principle of the white federal government’s push to have 

white citizens spread across the country to conquer and control 

it. At first, the impact was greatest on Native Americans, 

who didn’t even understand the concept of land ownership. It 

suggested that it was the white man’s God-given responsibility 

to control and own the land. With it came control of the legal, 

political and economic systems, as well as social privileges. 

As a more lofty goal, 

we’d like to have 

the young people 

learn our more inclusive 

history and 

challenge them to 

work for further equity 

and justice. 

—Sue Alperin 

How many classrooms are now teaching the BTOT curriculum? 

Unfortunately, we don’t have a record. Several hundred have taken our training 

but teachers retire, get laid off, move to different grades or subjects, and other 

circumstances so with our limited resources we aren’t able to keep track. 

What is the goal for the program? 

Simply put, to have every eighth grader in Oregon experience this curriculum. 

As a more lofty goal, we’d like to have the young people learn our more 

inclusive history and challenge them to work for further 

equity and justice. 

History is said to be written by the victors and 

should be scrutinized as such. What makes 

BTOT more credible? 

The fact that it was imagined and written by people representing 

a broad base of ethnicities, as well as people who represented 

a rich and deep range of experience in education gives, 

I believe, validity to this curriculum. At least one person from 

each major ethnic group in the curriculum served on the committee. 

Professionally, we have had public school teachers and 

administrators who have worked with multicultural curricula, 

college professors and deans, and others involved in curriculum 

development. 

Tell us about the methodology behind putting together 

the BTOT curriculum. How were facts and stories gathered, 

hee rtfie or lo 

From the research done through the Oregon State Archives and reviewing 

state laws for the Day of Acknowledgement, we had a core body of facts we 

wanted to present. Each person on our committee had a wealth of experiences 

and stories to tell or knew others we could contact. We used the resources of 

the Oregon Historical Society and records from online sources of various ethnic, 

academic and government institutions. When the rough draft was finally 

turned over to two professional curriculum writers, they did further checking 

for facts and added sources and information. 

What’s the biggest takeaway from BTOT? 

Dedicated people can truly effect change in what our students learn. It’s never 

too late to address the errors and omissions in our history. 

. 

What are you working on now? 

We are continuing to look for creative ways to get this curriculum into schools. 

We are grateful that Portland Public Schools have adopted this for use by all 

their middle school social science teachers and have provided training for them 

to use it effectively. For a group like ours with no financial resources, that has 

given us a boost and credibility. 


Ventures 

game changers 

Independence, safety 

and companionship in a 

four-legged friend 

Written by Chelsea Fine 

Photo by Ezra Marcos 

Robin Dickson of Dogs For 

the Deaf and a trainee. 

BONNIE H. HAD MISSED A LOT IN HER LIFE. She taught herself to 

read lips to keep up with conversations, but phone calls, alarms and doorbells 

escaped her, leading to frustration and anxiety. 

She learned about Dogs for the Deaf through a friend and applied for 

a service dog more than sixteen years ago. “I was blessed to have them 

so close,” Bonnie says of the Central Point-based nonprofit. Bonnie’s first 

hearing dog, Bogart, a spaniel mix, served her needs for nearly fourteen 

years. After Bogart died, Bonnie had to wait more than a year before receiving 

her second dog, Nanuq. “I felt edgy, and I couldn’t relax,” she recalls 

of that interim. “Now I know someone is there for me, and I’m not afraid of 

being alone. I feel complete with Nanuq here now.” 

From its inception in a dairy barn in Applegate, Oregon to its current 

forty-acre training facility hugging the base of the Table Rocks in Central 

Point, Dogs for the Deaf is in its thirty-fifth year of serving clients with 

special needs throughout the United States and Canada. 

“Like every nonprofit, we started out with nothing,” says DFD president 

and CEO Robin Dickson. “Through the years, though, we’ve made significant 

changes in people’s lives, and we have saved a lot of dogs in the process.” 

The nonprofit adopts dogs from shelters across the West to train them 

for one of its three programs. The staff looks for any breed and size of dog 

up to three years old with a combination of confidence, good health and 

mild temperament. One out of four dogs screened successfully completes 

the program. The graduates are then fitted with their official DFD vests 

and head off to work in their new homes. 

Dogs trained at DFD fill a number of social roles. Some are trained for 

the deaf to alert their owners when a telephone rings, a doorbell chimes 

or a baby cries. Dogs trained to work with autistic clients are taught to 

keep them away from dangerous situations and comfort them. Other dogs 

accompany professionals in different fields ranging from education to psychology. 

Once DFD adopts a dog, it is never returned to a shelter. Dogs that don’t 

successfully complete training in one of the three programs are placed 

with a family to live out their lives as beloved pets. “We make a lifetime 

commitment to these dogs,” says Dickson. “It’s a lot more than just training 

the dog; the whole process is critical to our success.” 

Dickson has always loved animals. “I grew up training elephants, horses, 

and lions.” Dickson’s father, Roy Kabat, retired to Applegate in the 1970s 

after a career in training animals at the famed Jungleland wild animal park 

in Thousand Oaks, California. 

A call from the American Humane Association in 1976 brought Kabat 

out of retirement and changed his family’s destiny. The Humane Society of 

Colorado needed help training a dog to be someone’s ears. When Kabat 

returned from Denver, he decided to begin his own training program. 

After Dickson graduated from college in Wisconsin, she taught high 

school English for a bit and then joined her family as a dog trainer in 1981. 

Five years later, she was at the helm of DFD. 

“Saving the lives of dogs and training them so they can go on to help 

people with disabilities—it doesn’t get more rewarding than that,” says 

Dickson of her family’s work. “It is an honor to have been able to make this 

dream become a reality.” 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2012 

ESTABLISHED IN 

1977 

Tours open to the public: M-F 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. 

3,000 dogs placed in 35 years 

Dogs available for general adoption 

rfit rees v ts 

Betty White serves on the advisory board 

Find Dogs for the Deaf online at dogsforthedeaf.org

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High 

Stakes 

on 

the 

RogueWritten by Kevin Max

High Staes on the Rogue 

A four-day awakening beneath 

shooting stars 

DAY THREE ON THE ROGUE was a tauntingly beautiful day as the Wild 

and Scenic Rogue River poured at a swift 2,400 cubic feet per second forty 

miles down from Grave Creek to Foster Bar takeout. Blossom Bar—harmless 

sounding enough—was our obsession, a rapid running through our minds 

since we planned the trip months ago. 

As morning yawned, the anticipation of Blossom Bar began putting 

a hitch in our laughter and laying a hush over the breaking of camp. 

This was it. 

Even in our trepidation, we knew that Blossom Bar was the pinnacle 

of any worthwhile Rogue River trip and the last major obstacle between 

us and Paradise Lodge. This rapid is rated by paddlers as being Class IV 

to Class V, which translates as very difficult to very, very difficult. From 

aerial views and even videos on the web, it doesn't look like much—a jog to 

river-right halfway through the rapid and then a tongue down the center. 

It's not until you're sitting in the waiting room in the eddy just before 

it, that you truly begin to contemplate the power of hydraulics. There are 

strewn boulders that jut through the coursing whitewater. One grouping 

of narrowly spaced rocks halfway down the rapid on river-left has earned 

the moniker, Picket Fence. 

While most Americans associate a picket fence with suburbia and safety, 

this Picket Fence is the Rogue's foremost symbol of danger, acting as a 

strainer that separates boats from boaters. Pulling hard to circumvent the 

Picket Fence means everything at the turbulent Blossom Bar. This is the 

river-right jog. 

There are thirteen of us altogether. Mo, a lawyer from Arlington, Virginia; 

his son, Isaac, a college student; our friends Heather and Ross 

Johnson, and their kids Hannah and Fletcher; my wife, Sarah, and our 

daughters, Fiona and Isabel. Three river guides from Rogue Wilderness 

Adventures round out the crew. 

I looked over our guides for a last visual assessment before Blossom 

Bar. Rick is a stout hand with the most seniority and a quiet demeanor. If 

you pushed your ears forward a bit, you could hear Rick's gallows humor, 

muttered softly as if its louder incarnation would test the river's patience. 

Rabbit (Robert) from West Texas, is built like a farm boy who has 

baled more than his share of hay. Rabbit also has the disarming ability 

to make his whole face smile. 

The final guide is Billy from outside of Austin, Texas, where music was his 

language and guitars his vocal cords. On the river, Billy played his guitar at 

night like the whole camp was his stage. This trip was to be his last before 

he got married in the fall. He and his little Jenny had found a place outside 

of Hood River where they would make their new lives—maybe starting their 

own food cart. 

"Now listen up, I need all of your attention and all of your strength," 

said Rabbit, a solemn face replacing his beaming smile for the first time in 

three days. We were in position and sliding sideways into what would be 

the climax of the most exhilarating and mind-broadening four-day family 

trip that we had ever experienced. If everyone popped through, we'd be 

in Paradise Lodge in time for cocktail hour and have just one child's fear 

left to resolve. 

photo by ason itchell 


DAY 1 

Izzy comes up big with a 

crawdad from Whisky Creek. 

The first day rumbled down Rainie Falls, a Class V plunge 

that churns back over itself at its bottom. Thankfully we 

portage around this. I recalled the story told to me by 

a friend two years ago in which his friend, a worldclass 

paddler, ran the "hero line" over Rainie Falls on a 

stand-up paddleboard. His board broke in half on the 

rocks below, but he emerged intact. He dowelled and 

duct taped the board back together and continued 

on down the river. From where I sat on the adjacent 

rocks, watching raft guides do everything to avoid 

running Rainie, I was dumbstruck by the stand-up 

paddler's feat and his ability to face down fear. 

After Rainie, we floated a mile and a half down to 

Whisky Creek Cabin. This cabin, built in 1889, is the oldest 

standing structure along the Rogue and a relic of the 

gold rush era that began in 1862. The one-room cabin's 

shelves still have dusty cans and jars of long-faded brands 

as if its resident scurried off to the next gold claim with only 

his trousers, a pan and a pick. 

To get out of the heat, we hiked to a shaded and clear tributary 

and dipped our feet. Somewhere below our feet, though, 

something was moving. There were crawdads here for the catching! 

Mo struck first. Then the kids. Pretty soon nearly everyone has a 

crawdad on the cool banks of Whisky Creek. 

On large commercial whitewater rafts, such as Rogue Wilderness Adventure’s, 

truly "feeling the river" began with Class II rapids and greater. In duckies, or 

inflatable kayaks, however, that sensation begins immediately. These are essentially blowup 

rafts with fortified gunwales. In duckies, you sit low in the river and learn its hydraulics quickly. They're fun 

to play in and generally difficult to flip. 

Each day, we needed volunteers to paddle the three duckies in our flotilla. The attachment of duckies added an 

element of excitement and challenge, one which our companions, Mo and Isaac, relished. These two were early ducky 

volunteers, and soon they're shooting deftly through Class III rapids, all the while remaining upright. 

For me, balance was never going to be my strong suit. Not more than a few miles into day one, we encountered 

Russian Creek Rapids, a long bubbling stretch and our first real test as apprentices of the ducky. 

Rabbit called for the ducky paddlers to eddy up near him for instructions on how to shoot the Russian 

Creek Rapids. "You have to pay attention all the way through this one, or you're gonna get wet," he said. 

"Follow my line." Sarah, in the larger craft, anxiously flipped pages in her Rogue River guide book ("This is 

Russian Creek Rapids, right?"). She smiled and bade, "Good luck, honey." 

Into the rapids went Rabbit and his charge of kids, and wives and guide books, and out they came dry and 

smiling. I watched from an eddy and then paddled into the flow. Whisked into the center, the river comes 

at you from all directions growing louder as it does. Helluva lot different watching people navigate the river 

on YouTube than sitting down in it. Immediately engulfed in whitewater, I counter-braced with my paddle to 

stay upright. Nearing the end of the rapid, I raised my eyes to see Rabbit's purple craft. All eyes were on me 

as my ducky spontaneously flipped on the last riffle, making me the trip's first (and only) "swimmer." 

A few miles downriver, we eddied up for the evening at the Wildcat campsite. The food prepared by our 

guides was five-star riverine cuisine. Even if we weren't such a captive and grateful mess of diners, I would 

swear to the same. Before the mains, our guides created a dip with salmon, blackberry jam and cream cheese. 

Dinner was steak, salad, and mac and cheese. Beer and wine-by-the-box were also in camp. 

Ross, who never leaves home without a fly-rod, discovered that he left home without a fly-rod. On the river, 

it's all about improvisation. Ross cast about for any branch that would do the job. As night fell, he found a 

branch that was long enough and sturdy enough. Content, Ross cranked back in his seat with a pocket knife 

and began carving a notch for his reel. 

From a specially designed dry bag, Billy took out his guitar and began to play, transporting us to the sound 

stage of our own private Austin City Limits. 


HISTORY 

OF 

THE ROGUE 

ane Grey cabin on the Rogue. 

The Rogue, in its entirety, bubbles 

up to the surface near Crater 

Lake and gathers strength as it 

runs 215 miles southwest through 

the Rogue River National Forest, 

past Grants Pass, into narrow 

canyons in the Siskiyou National 

rest t t te fi 

Ocean at Gold Beach. 

The eighty-four-mile Wild and 

Scenic section stretches from 

Graves Creek outside of Grants 

Pass to eleven miles east of Gold 

e. s s e te first 

eight rivers signed into the watershed 

federal Wild and Scenic 

Rivers Act of 1968. 

The river took its name from a 

er tt te re's first te 

settlers, French trappers, gave 

the area's native settlers, les coquins, 

or roughly, the rogues. The 

e res ve fise 

the river's banks for many years 

until the Donation Land Act in 

1851 brought entitled white men, 

more development and more 

skirmishes through the 1850s. The 

discovery of gold near presentday 

Gold Beach ushered in more 

rtsts t t te 

area throughout the 1850s and 

1860s. 

By the 1920s, however, it was 

te fis tt ere t 

in the struggle. One of the river's 

past celebrities, a rugged 

trs fiser 

novelist, Zane Grey, wrote his 

only non-Western book, Rogue 

River Feud (1929), about the 

imbroglio between sport and 

er fisere te 

Rogue. On the second day of 

our trip, we'd get a chance to 

see this small cabin from where 

Grey wrote that piece. 

DAY 2 

Morning slowly materialized through hushed voices, laughter, the clank of a coffee 

pot, the crackle of a fire, the cracking of eggs, the slicing of potatoes and the wafting 

providence of bacon. Food and hydration are paramount on hot summer days 

on the river. 

Being on the Rogue is almost as much about getting off the Rogue. There are 

tributaries to explore. There are historic cabins to tour. And there are towering rock 

ledges to launch from and into the river below. 

For kids who haven't grown up jumping off of towering rock ledges (until this moment), 

the first time took some psychological doing. For sweltering adults, it was only 

a second of consideration. Kerplunk! Izzy, who had just turned ten, stepped up to 

the edge of the twenty-foot plunge at Kelsey Canyon, took minutes of preparation, 

overcame rationality and finally forced herself into the air. Splash! 

Fiona, her twin sister, was more measured in her approach, remaining a foot back 

from the edge while outwardly expressing her inner battle. ("No, really. If I just walk 

out there ... What do I do? Do I just step out or jump out? What if I jump out too 

far?") Down below, we listened for fifteen minutes to Fiona approaching the edge 

and then talking herself back. The adults grew cantankerous and eager to move on 

down the river. 

At that moment, I considered grabbing Fiona and walking her off the ledge, but 

her courage would still be lodged behind the soft tissue of fear. We moved on, but 

Fiona's mind was still troubled and back on that ledge. Without a shiny diversion in 

camp that night, there would be major psychological reckoning. 

Seventeen miles downriver from the Grave Creek put-in sits the amazing little 

Zane Grey cabin. In 1926, Grey bought a mining 

claim at Winkle's Bar on the Rogue and 

built a one-room cabin from which he 

fished and wrote. Commercial fishing 

on the Rogue would not be 

banned until 1935, an act that 

came too late for Grey, 

who had already moved 

north to try his luck on 

the Umpqua River. A 

meager ten-foot by 

fifteen-foot cabin 

was all he needed. 

He later sold the 

property to heirs 

of the Levi Strauss 

fortune, who 

naturally erected 

a comparatively 

monstrous house 

in front of his 

tiny cabin. 

Near four 

that afternoon, 

we tied up at 

Missouri Creek 

camp. It's a particularly 

good spot. Out 

front, the river had the 

speed and sound for 

sound sleeping. A 200- 

yard riffle rambled on in the 

Rabbit at the oars after a 

quick dip in the Rogue. 




center spit of the Rogue. On the eastern boundary 

of camp is the cool Missouri Creek, along 

whose bed the kids hiked far up until they were 

gone, and adults squashed empty beer cans into 

vessels in what became a Bud Light regatta. 

As Billy laid out acoustic melodies in the shade 

of the creek, the returning kids created a spontaneous 

rhythm section with shakers made from 

pebbles and soda cans, and a tin drum from cans 

struck with a stick. I wish Zane Grey could have 

heard this Rogue River Harmony (Rogue River 

Fugue) coming from the other side of the river. 

As darkness fell over camp, our fire extinguished 

and with it, Billy's guitar. A crescent 

moon emerged among a billion stars. We said 

goodnight and retreated to our sleeping bags. 

We lay on our backs underneath the brilliant 

sky. No tents necessary in the warm and bugfree 

nights on the Rogue. 

"Dad, I'm so angry I didn't jump today," says 

Fiona, in silence's first available moment. "I'm 

embarrassed." 

"Don't worry, there'll be more ..." 

"Oooh did you see that?" Fiona blurted. "Ooh, 

there's another one, Dad. I saw two shooting 

stars." Kids are impressionable little people who 

can't be trusted with such observations. "I just 

saw one, too!" Izzy embellished. Trees falling in 

the woods, until an adult—"Ooh, look at that!"— 

spies his own, Soon meteors are struck matches 

soaring across the sky. 

If you're as schooled in astronomy as I am, 

you can, if pressed, identify the Big Dipper. Even 

the ignorant can be lucky enough to have been 

sleeping outside during one of the year's greatest 

celestial light displays. In Perseid's shower in 

the middle of August, meteors are as abundant 

as Christmas lights at The Vatican. I later read 

that NASA's Meteoroid Environment Office predicted 

that as many as one hundred meteors 

per hour could be seen that night. Depending 

on whom you believe, we counted five to ten. 

DAY 3 

Blossom Bar lies nearly seven miles down from Missouri Creek. This morning, however, 

Fiona mugs while Hannah prepares 

for a departure with Rick. 

it seems no farther than the next turn in the river. Even our forks feel like oars, digging 

in to power us through. Breakfast is French toast with fruit and a scramble of potatoes 

and onions. It all feels vaguely Last Meal-ish. 

On the third day of gathering, whittling and rigging, Ross has finally finished converting 

a branch into a long arching spey rod and is working the river bank for fish. 

Sarah anxiously grabs her guide book to analyze our approach to the big one. The 

brain of a mother of two has a different chemical defense system a half a day upriver 

from Blossom Bar. In the weeks leading up to the Rogue trip, she had suddenly started 

asking nonchalantly, while out on our regular run, what class of rapids was below us on 

previously ignored flows of the Deschutes River. By the time we had cinched down our 

life jackets on the first day, Sarah could recount details of fatalities on the Rogue with 

the accuracy of Rain Man counting cards. 

As our third day continued, Fiona was still cursed by her inability to join the other 

lemmings the day before—last night's meteor shower fading from the fore. A few miles 

downriver, she'd get her second chance. 

At mile 24 from the put-in at Grave Creek is the marvelous Rogue River Ranch at 

Mule Creek. Here there is an unusual collection of the well-preserved buildings of the 

Billings and, later, Anderson families. In 1903, George Billings built a grand two-story 

house and painted it barn red. He next built a tabernacle out back for Rogue 

River hootenannies. The subsequent owner, Stanley Anderson, added a bunkhouse, 

a tackhouse and a blacksmith shop on the seventy-acre riverfront parcel. 

Today the BLM manages the property as a museum open to all. 

A trail from behind the Rogue River Ranch leads down a steep path 

before intersecting with Mule Creek below. Mule Creek's pitched banks—covered 

in foliage and canopied by trees—form a shaded, clear blue pool many 

degrees cooler than the exposed Rogue. On the far bank is a jutting rock 

about twenty feet high. Below it, a twelve-foot-deep water hole, as clear as 

any resort's pool. 

Rabbit climbed around the back and launched. "Wahoo!" Others followed. 

This time, however, Fiona marched up and talked herself into letting 



ABOVE Ross ohnson works the banks of the Rogue with 

his makeshift shing rod made from a stick. 

go. A new day emerged on her wet face and relief on everyone else's. 

As if fear and courage were a zero-sum game, now it was Izzy who 

stood on the precipice, unable to repeat what she had just done the 

day before. People scooted past and bombed it—kerplunk—leaving a 

shell-shocked Izzy yet more anxious above. After a half hour like this, 

the lot of us was giddy, Fiona is whole but Izzy was morose with her 

own failure. She later processed, "Dad, on the first jump, I couldn't see 

the bottom. On this one, I could." 

Decades ago, my older brother, citing the same reasons, couldn't 

remove himself from the bungee crane tower as I lapped him with 

glee. The very next day, he strapped on a parachute and jumped from 

an airplane instead. 

Back on the Rogue, we approached the dreaded Blossom Bar. "Now 

listen up, I need all of your attention and all of your strength," said 

Rabbit, a solemn face replacing his beaming smile for the first time in 

three days. We were in position and sliding sideways into what would 

become the most exhilarating and mind-broadening four-day family 

trip we had ever experienced. 

Sarah stashed her guidebook, gripped her paddle and pinched her feet 

under the bulging gunwales. There was no walking away from this ledge. 

For the first time, we all had paddles and specific duties to perform with 

them. 

As we entered the rapid, the water grew and the noise became louder and 

more urgent. Below us was the Picket Fence. "Back-paddle four strokes!" Rabbit 

shouted over the din and up to the bow. We braced ourselves and pushed with 

desperate strength. "Back-paddle two strokes!" 

Without touching any rocks, the raft lurched back and brought 

us easily into position to spit us through Blossom Bar. That was it? 

Six swift strokes and we were safely sailing past the crux of our collective 

fear and bound for the rustic splendor of Paradise Lodge. 

That night brought the yet-crazier astrological claim from Fi and Izzy. 

While the adults were catching up on cocktails, the ever-dramatic Fiona 

rushed in. "I just saw two explosions and then a blue streak like a fireball," 

she insisted. 

I assumed they were taking advantage of alcohol-plied adults. "Izzy?" 

"No, it's true Dad. I saw it too." 

One pitch higher, "Izzeee? Feee?" 

"No Dad, really!" 



LEFT Hannah and Fletcher cool off. ABOVE Sarah and Izzy 

share a moment on a butte above Paradise Lodge. RIGHT Izzy, 

Hannah and Fiona go for glory on their last cliff jump of the 

four-day journey. 

DAY 4 

After a soft bed and good home-cooked meals at Paradise Lodge, 

we lit out on our last day. Down to the takeout at Foster Bar, the 

river was wider and gentler. Euphoria floated across the faces of 

our crew. Still there was one last rock between us and Foster Bar 

and, frankly, this one was taller than the others. 

At Flora Dell, still five miles up from Foster, we took out for 

lunch. Our guides introduced us to a trail that led back to a secluded 

waterfall, once the site of a scene from the movie River Wild 

with Meryl Streep and Kevin Bacon. The beauty here was stunning. 

Back along the Rogue's bank, Ross had hooked his first fish on 

his makeshift spey rod. She couldn't have been more than a sixinch 

smolt, but a victory nonetheless. 

Not more than fifty feet upstream, a rock jutted out over the 

river—a final taunt on the four-day float. Ross, Heather, Fletcher, 

Hannah and Isaac bombed it in brave and successive plunges. Fi 

and Izzy approached the edge as the rest of us wondered which 

one would be gripped by fear this time. The Rogue itself was probably 

just as surprised by these two little kerplunks, expecting to get 

one or the other, but not both. Ever the host, the Rogue first took 

in their toes, then legs, then faces and outstretched arms. From all 

of those who had patiently watched this play out over the past four 

days, came a collective sigh of relief. 

REFLECTIONS FROM TERRA FIRMA 

I can swear that taking a family trip down the Rogue has some 

of the best things you could hope for—fun rapids to play in, deep 

canyons to shout echoes into, history unique to this area and stars 

up above. There is all of that. Still, the most valuable piece of it is 

relearning how to unplug, how to face your fears and even confront 

your own cynicism. 

A couple of days after coming off the Rogue, as I drove listening 

to the radio, it was either Korva Coleman, or Lakshmi Singh, or 

Mara Liasson who must have been fielding calls from mischievous 

ten year olds. 

"On Tuesday, NASA confirmed the break up and crash of the 

X-51A, an un-manned hypersonic jet that was to reach speeds of 

Mach 6. Witnesses reported seeing two explosions and then a falling 

streak." 

I laughed at myself, recalling Izzy and Fiona's insistence,"No 

Dad, really!" 


Go to 1859magazine.com/ 

refi t t video 

t rver seree e 

eress vetres e 

eee. 

For a gallery ts r 

te r rt te 

e t e. 

reer. 

OPB shares colorful stories of 

how we shaped the Rogue 

River and how in turn the 

Rogue River shaped our lives. 

Rogue River Special 

Oregon Field Guide 

February 7, 2013 @ 8:30 p.m.

KING 

ARTHUR 

written by Casey Bush

ing arthur 

THE AMAZING LIFE OF 

OREGON'S CHESS GRANDMASTER 

AFTER TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AT THE OREGON DMV, IN 1973, Arthur 

Dake loaded his car and headed south to Lone Pine, California. His radar 

detector on, Dake sped down the interstate with urgency, stopping for an evening 

at blackjack tables in Reno before arriving at the chess tournament. 

On the east side of the Sierras, straddling Highway 395, Lone Pine sits on a 

stretch of desert between Mt. Whitney and Death Valley. Millionaire chess patron 

Louis D. Statham, who pioneered tracking technology for spacecraft, called 

together an international chess tournament in the isolated desert redoubt. Statham 

had retreated to Lone Pine after he sold his Westwood mansion to Hugh 

Hefner, who then fashioned it as the Western Playboy Mansion. 

Although remote, Lone Pine had provided the setting for a wide range of 

cowboy movies, including the Hopalong Cassidy franchise. Statham enjoyed the 

desert beauty, but he missed his LA chess cronies. He soon built a new town 

hall to properly stage the tournament, offered to pay travel expenses for his guest 

players and guaranteed a generous prize fund to draw the best chess players in 

the world. 

Bald with a prominently hooked nose holding up thick black-rimmed glasses, 

Dake appeared as though he would be more comfortable playing bingo than 

chess. At age 62, he was the oldest participant and virtually unknown to a generation 

of American players brought up in the shadow of Bobby Fischer. Most 

players who sat across from Dake at Statham's tournament wouldn't know that 

their opponent was the man who had defeated Russian world champion Alexander 

Alekhine in 1932. 

The returning grandmaster from Oregon, Arthur Dake, wasn’t just a giant killer, 

he was also the fastest player of his generation, a reckless gladiator who pushed 

pawns with a love for speed in a game often played at the pace of glaciers. 


ing arthur 

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE PORTLAND CHESS CLUB 

Young Arthur Dake first came to the public’s notice in 1919, when 

he rushed past the Secret Service to address President Woodrow Wilson, 

who was crisscrossing the nation in support of the League of Nations. 

The Oregonian captured this feat in an article entitled, “Lad in 

Corduroy Dodges Past Outer Guard, Respect 

Paid, Hat in Hand.” The nine-year-old could 

not be held back and thanked President Wilson 

for ensuring freedom for his immigrant 

father’s homeland, Poland. 

Dake was an independent youth, selling 

newspapers on the street, at the docks 

and ouside the railway station. He used that 

money to see movies, and at age twelve, his 

infatuation with the Silver Screen led him to 

run away from home, slipping aboard a train 

to Hollywood. After a few days wandering 

Tinseltown in search of movie stars, he was 

discovered by the Santa Monica police dozing 

on a street car and was promptly sent back to Portland. That trip 

may have been encouraged by increasing marital discord at home—a 

major factor in the sixteen-year-old’s decision to lie about his age and 

join the Merchant Marines, sailing to Japan, China and the Philippines. 

After sowing his wild oats overseas, he returned to Portland, finding 

school uninteresting and home unbearable. He learned to play chess 

and began spending all his time at the Portland Chess Club, where he 

came under the tutelage of E. G. Short, a third-grade dropout who was 

employed automating telephone switchboards. 

Dake watched and learned as Short battled his main PCC rival, 

A.G. Johnson, a Harvard-educated lawyer who 

worked for the Strong & McNaughton Trust. 

Short was a socialist and Johnson a capitalist, 

and their struggles at the chessboard represented 

more than a personal dislike for each 

other. Despite their political animosity, the 

two men established a national reputation for 

the Portland Chess Club as they took turns 

defeating masters visiting the Rose City. These 

included victories over Frank Marshall (1913, 

1915), and world champions Jose Capablanca 

(1916), Alexander Alekhine (1924), and Emanuel 

Lasker (1926), as well as the nine-year-old 

prodigy, Sammy Reshevsky (1921). 

Though Short's play was brilliant, he was often outmatched by Johnson. 

Short resorted to an alternate strategy to defeat Johnson. By 1927, 

a precocious teenager was quickly marching his way up the PCC rating 

board. Short recognized an opportunity to wound his main rival and 

arranged a match between Dake and Johnson. Dake won handily, and 

Johnson was rarely seen down at the club thereafter. 

ABOVE FRO LEFT Prague 1931 American Olympic Chess Team Arthur Dake, Isaac Kashdan, Frank arshall, I.A. Horowitz 

and Herman Steiner. BELOW Pasadena 193. (Seated) Alexander Alekhine vs. Isaac Kashdan. (Standing) exican champion 

os Araiza, Dake, Reuben Fine and Sammy Reshevsky. 

TEENAGER VS. 

CHESS WORLD CHAMPION 

During the fall of that year, in Argentina, Alexander Alekhine and 

Jose Capablanca played a match for the world championship. The Russian 

expatriate defeated the Cuban in a brilliant manner and during the 

spring of 1928 celebrated his victory by conducting a series of simultaneous 

exhibitions across the United States. Simultaneous exhibitions 

are spectacles that pit a single chess talent against dozens of players 

at a time. The chess boards are set up at consecutive tables so that the 

champion can move easily from one to the next. Unfortunately Alekhine’s 

schedule did not include the Pacific Northwest. At first, the PCC 

was going to send Johnson to California to face the new champion, but 

instead they chose Dake. A hat was passed around, and the young club 

champion went to Los Angeles, where the rambunctious Oregonian 

held Alekhine, the new crowned world champion, to a fifty-four-move 

draw. Dake followed Alekhine to San Francisco, where he played him 

once more in a simul that included the strongest players in California. 

This time the champ was prepared. Within a few moves Alekhine quit 

circling the room and stood across from the Portland 

teenager, challenging him with a defiant stare. As the 

entire gallery stopped to watch, the two began pushing 

their pieces at a second per move and, despite 

his supreme confidence, Dake lasted less than a half 

minute before resigning to the world champion. 


ing arthur 

RAPID TRANSIT CHESS AND NEW YORK 

Tournament chess games can last six hours, while games of blitz, or 

speed chess, are finished in ten minutes—pieces flying off the board. 

Before the widespread use of clocks, it was called Rapid Transit and 

conducted with a bell that rang every ten seconds compelling players 

to move or lose. After learning the moves at age seventeen, Dake 

honed his chess skills playing Rapid Transit at the Portland Chess Club. 

He didn’t play his first slow tournament game until two years later, but 

soon established himself as one of the best in the world. Often using 

less than half the time of his opponents, Dake confidently answered 

each move with the first idea that came into this head. 

It was in 1929 that Dake burst upon the New York City chess scene. 

Returning from sailing around the world as a Merchant Marine, he set 

up a stand in Coney Island and played all comers for a quarter a game. 

After the stock market crashed that October, he moved into Times 

Square, where he raised the stakes to a dollar. Playing for wagers at the 

prestigious Marshall Chess Club, he discovered that he could support 

himself, even offering his opponents a pawn or a knight advantage just 

to keep them on the hook. 

Dake fondly remembered one of his earliest encounters at the Marshall 

Club with arch rival, Reuben Fine. “I was 

a nineteen-year-old sailor, a self-styled Jack 

London, who rode a chess knight into the Big 

Apple. The New York lads, they all thought 

I was a big, juicy peach fit for skinning and 

eating. I recall a very young and much thinner 

Reuben Fine pounding a piece down on 

the board, letting me know that it was a ‘Fine 

move.’ Fine, I replied, I’ll Dake it off.” 

The kid from Oregon was met with the kind 

of snobbish disdain New Yorkers, at that 

time, reserved for greeting those from the hinterlands. Dake was undaunted 

and soon took everyone by surprise. Within a few months, he 

had won the championship of both the Marshall and Manhattan chess 

clubs, the two strongest chess clubs in the world. 

Frank Marshall, the longtime U.S. Champion, then nominated Dake 

to be a member of the 1931 American Olympic chess team. Friends 

helped Dake arrange a cross-country tour playing simultaneous exhibitions 

to raise money for his trip to Prague, Czechoslovakia. This type 

of event favored Dake’s fast-paced style, as he would take no more than 

a few seconds to make his move at each board. He would typically finish 

such events in several hours, winning almost all of the games. After 

crisscrossing the country, the return of the prodigal son was documented 

by The Oregonian under the headline “Chess Wizard Plays 43: 

Boy Who Studied Moves Instead of Multiplication—Junior National 

Champ Now.” 

In the summer of 1931, in preparation for the Chess Olympics in 

Prague, he played in a tournament that included the esteemed Capablanca. 

Entering the endgame, he had “The Chess Machine” on the ropes but 

then suffered a loss that he remembered the rest of his life. “I was a young 

cocky kid who wanted to show the great Capablanca that I could move 

just as fast as he could,” Dake said. After that game, Dake took up smoking 

just to have something to do while waiting for his opponent to move. 

“I was a young cocky kid 

who wanted to show the 

great Capablanca that I 

could move just as fast 

as he could.” 

—Arthur Dake 

Over the next few years, Dake would achieve his greatest chess accomplishments. 

During the 1930s, he won nine major tournaments, 

pursuing his fortunes from Mexico City and Antwerp, to New York, 

Chicago, Milwaukee and Philadelphia. He finished second and third 

in a dozen other tournaments, often beginning those events strongly 

only to fall off the pace near the end. Those accomplishments were all 

covered on the sports page of The Oregonian. 

Undoubtedly Dake's finest hour came in 1932 with his victory over 

Alekhine in round ten at the Pasadena International Tournament, the 

only American to defeat the world champion. That game was preceded 

by two other encounters that set the stage for the Oregonian’s triumph. 

Several months earlier, upon arriving in America, Alekhine first spent 

some time in New York hanging out at the Manhattan Chess Club. 

Dake often recounted an evening he spent there with Alekhine and 

Arnold Denker playing Rapid Transit for a quarter a game. 

A large crowd collected around their table as the world champion 

took the first three pots, whereupon Denker won a couple. Then Dake 

mopped up by winning six in a row, dropping one to Denker and then 

winning another half dozen. As Alekhine lost more games, his face 

went from red to purple. The humiliation of 

reaching into a black coin purse to fetch more 

quarters, combined with surrendering his 

seat at the board, enraged the champion. He 

challenged the Oregonian to a regular match 

but Dake begged off, addressing the gallery directly, 

“Everyone here knows that you would 

slaughter me in a match, so why play one?” 

As Dake kept winning, Alekhine leveled the 

challenge a second time, and the Oregonian 

again declined. “I know you are the better player and are merely off 

form this evening,” he said. Alekhine exploded, gesturing at the spectators 

surrounding the board and loudly lecturing his young protégé, 

“You know that, I know that, but these silly people don’t know that.” 

In August, Dake again played the Russian during a publicity stunt that 

preceded the international tournament, in a blimp high above Pasadena. 

Mixing altitude and attitude, Dake drew that game, defeated the 

only other player in the blimp and declared himself “champion of the 

air.” The world champion had not lost a tournament game for several 

years and vowed to seek his revenge in round ten. In that game, Dake 

surprised Alekhine with a thirty-eight-move win, pacing himself with a 

series of slow burning cigarettes. 

In addition to defeating Alekhine in the Pasadena tournament and 

owning him at Rapid Transit, Dake is best remembered for his performance 

on three consecutive American Olympic chess teams which 

won the gold in Prague (1931), Folkestone (1933) and Warsaw (1935), 

where Dake had the highest winning percentage of any player. 

On the trans-Atlantic voyage back from the Chess Olympics in Poland, 

he met Helen Gerwatowski, who he always referred to as his 

“greatest chess prize.” They were soon married, and within a year had a 

daughter. Dake's attempt to support his young family as a chess player 

during the depths of the Great Depression proved daunting. 


ing arthur 

KNIGHTS OF 

THE PORTLAND CHESS CLUB 

ABOVE Portland Chess Club in 191, above Circle Theater, with spittoons. 

Twenty-five years ago, lawyer and chess expert, Michael 

Morris, tried to mediate the eviction of the Portland 

Chess Club (PCC) for keeping late hours at its 

headquarters in Southeast Portland. He lost the case, 

but since that time has been instrumental in housing 

and maintaining a cultural institution which dates back 

to 1861 when another legal mind, federal judge Matthew 

Deady, was the first president of the PCC. Deady 

was interested in bringing Eastern culture to the Wild 

West and is also credited with being the founder the 

Multnomah County Library. In 1913, another lawyer, 

G.T. Woodlaw, secured PCC's first “permanent” quarters 

above the Circle Theater on SW 4th next to the 

Dekum Building. After several decades, the stability 

provided by Colonel Woodlaw eventually spawned a 

champion who was sent out to conquer the world. 

The link between education and chess dates back 

to Goethe who called it the “gymnasium of the mind.” 

In recent years, the royal game has been used as an 

educational tool by organizations like Portland-based 

Chess for Success. Oregonians may never see another 

Arthur Dake, but two local Portland players, who honed 

their skills at the PCC, have recently received scholarships 

to play on chess teams at two Texas colleges. In 

2011, Clackamas High School sophomore Alexandra 

Botez won the National Girl’s Chess Championship in 

Chicago and was awarded a full scholarship to the University 

of Texas at Dallas. More recently, Oregon state 

champion, twenty-year-old Steven Breckenridge, received 

a scholarship to another Lone Star chess power, 

Texas Tech University in Lubbock. 

THE USSR AND THE DMV 

Around this time, Dake's place on the chessboard was slipping 

as he finished sixth in the 1938 national championship. He lost 

ground to younger players such as Reuben Fine and Sammy Reshevsky. 

After only eight years at the top of the chess world, Arthur 

Dake decided to retire and dedicate himself to supporting his family. 

That decision led back to his hometown, where his chess celebrity 

wasn’t worth more than a cup of coffee. 

Over the next few years, Dake took jobs digging ditches, and selling 

insurance and reverse phone directories. On a trip back from 

California, he crashed his car near Eugene and spent a month in 

the hospital with a broken neck. While recovering, Dake found 

employment as a boilermaker on Swan Island. After his health returned, 

he enlisted in the army. 

Before the start of the Cold War, the U.S. State Department recruited 

Dake to join a ten-man diplomatic chess team that was dispatched 

to Moscow to take on the Soviets as a gesture of good will. 

Dake drew both of his games, but the hosts provided the American 

team with a drubbing, marking the dawn of the preeminence 

of Soviet chess. The Soviets were unbeatable until Bobby Fischer 

overpowered Boris Spassky in 1972. 

Soviet players maintained their edge through state support, while 

the Americans all had to find jobs, unable to dedicate themselves 

to training and competition. World champion candidate, Reuben 

Fine, quit chess and became a Freudian psychologist; perennial national 

champion, Sammy Reshevsky, worked seasonally as an accountant; 

and 1944 U.S. Champion, Arnold Denker, worked in a 

meat packing factory, which he eventually owned. 

ABOVE American Chess Team lands in oscow in 19. BOTTO TO TOP Sammy 

Reshevsky, Alexander Kevitz, Isaac Kashdan, Weaver Adams, Helen Dake, 

Arthur Dake and Albert Pinkus. 


ing arthur 

Likewise, upon returning to Portland, Dake took a job with the DMV, eventually 

administering 70,000 driving tests. During the 1950s, he played in some 

West Coast tournaments and developed a taste for bridge and blackjack. During 

the 1960s, he didn’t play competitive chess at all. But with the excitement 

caused by Bobby Fischer, Dake became a public figure again, covering the 

1972 world championship for The Oregonian, hosting simultaneous exhibitions, 

and playing a public match at what is now the Civic Theater. 

1973: THE RETURN TO 

LONE PINE 

After having been absent from competitive chess for decades, Dake again 

faced some of the world's elite players. That first year he finished with only 

one win, three draws and three losses. Undeterred, the grandmaster from 

Oregon returned four more times to Lone Pine and in the desert rediscovered 

the pleasures of his youth. Over the ten-year history of Statham's tournament, 

Dake achieved a rank of 39 among a field of 230 players. 

After a disappointing finish in 1977, Dake again retired as the only chess 

grandmaster ever to come out of Oregon—and one of the few who beat the 

aristocratic Russian world champion, Alexander Alekhine, in his prime. 

ABOVE Dake in Portland in 1950. 

AUTHOR'S NOTE 

In 1987, Dake again came out of chess retirement for 

the U.S. Open in Portland. That’s where I first met him. He 

was the master of ceremonies and finished a respectable 

thirty-second in a field of more than 500. 

In 1991, world champion and Russian grandmaster Garry 

Kasparov, gave the keynote address at the induction of Arthur 

Dake into the Chess Hall of Fame. In April 2000, the 

Portland Chess Club hosted a ninetieth birthday party for 

"King Arthur." Some 100 friends and players from around 

the country came for the celebration. A month later, he 

died of a heart attack in Reno after a winning night at the 

blackjack table. Many of the same people who were at the 

birthday party returned to Portland to attend his funeral at 

St. Agatha’s Church in Sellwood. The service was followed 

by a reception, where attendees brought out their boards 

and clocks to play speed chess in Dake’s honor. 


gaer 

Tim LaBarge’s Cyclocross 

The Good, the Bad 

and the Muddy 


gaer 

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B B 

 

 

B B 

A 

 

A B B B A B 

B 

 

N J 

 


gaer 


gaer

est of Oregon 

bEST lOCAl 

sPORtING eVENt 

bEST vIEW 

Portland 

Timbers 

Crater Lake 

Written by 

Lee Lewis Husk 

Illustrated by 

Joe Wirtheim 

BESt WINe 

bEST lUXUrY 

HOTeL 

1859 REAdERS' CHOiCE 

Fresh Picks 

Rex Hill Reserve 

Pinot noir 

The 

Allison 

Want the very best? We spent the 

past three months fielding countless 

ballots of your favorites in the 

state. These results (online ballots 

from our website), brought some 

interesting oldies, some shocking 

up-and-comers and some you 

haven't heard of of ... until now. The 

following article represents only a 

fraction of the total Best of Oregon 

results. For the full results, go to 

1859magazine.com/best-of-oregon. 

bEST cAMPiNG 

Beverly 

Beach 

bEST bAND 

Pink Martini 


BESt BEEr 

BESt PLAcE To IMPrESS 

OUT oF ToWNErS 

bEST rUSTiC DiGS 

est of Oregon 

Ninkasi 

Multnomah 

Falls 

Timberline Lodge 

bEST 

hAPPy HOUr 

bEST bREWeRY 

bEST wINErY 

• 

Porters 

• 

Deschutes 

Brewery 

Archery 

Summit 

BESt DEStINAtION 

REStAURaNT 

bEST hIKInG 

bEST rOAD tRIP 

Pelican 

Pub & Brewery 

Smith Rock 

Highway 

101 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 

8

est of Oregon 

The 

Allison 

Best Luxury Hotel 

WiNNEr 

ALLISON INN & SPA, newberg 

r te s eer stress 

es s e te t te s 

tes.. ers tve s 

e te ste s strtres 

ts res retret te ert re e 

tr. e s ere tr s evet 

r te v severe rs t r reserve 

r eetr vees te see st 

ttes. e s's e restrt r 

sets ers e es re t r 

te fi rtest sre s - 

se rtere re r te 

ste re. E ts ter rs 

Oregon artists, the large pool and spa, complimentary 

wine tasting on Thursdays, and jazz on Friday 

tr ts. est rs re ss t 

firees eter terre r . 

ev s est re e retes et r 

t r r et . 

rUNNeRS-uP 

THE NINES, PORTLAND 

e es verte te er rs te 

landmark Meier & Frank Building in downtown Portland into a 

r trteeste r te tt s te eret es 

er st. st te rt ertre estrt 

ets trst r e ts 

ve r e s. tees. 

THE OXFORD, bend 

e r te rtee. s tse 

e te ee t e 

s re ee vrte s e trveers. 

t r te r ts rtetre rss re 

see terr t ester eesets s 

s ter eers. e tes restrt e ter 

e r serves sre r es see 

sts se. t ss te trs. 


photo by Denis Point

est of Oregon 

Portland 

Timbers 

Best Local Sporting Event 

WiNNEr 

timbers game, portland 

e s s e re 

t t ser e tte rt ers e 

t ee e t st er e re er s s te fie t eerte e 

. e s te sses t te r e te s te er sre te . e rt - 

ers srvve vrs terts se e Mr ee er ve ee eve rt te 

rt srts see. ts rre srter r s te ers r s ste t te rt e te st 

ere t sters sts trt te e t s. ts tt e re ers r e re et 

ere r tre srters r ever re. rtters. 

photo by Buddy ays 

rUNNeR-uP POLE, PEDAL, PADDLE, bend 

E M e resets t st e e e e e. te 

ese ever ter vee s e ss ts r. e M 

te e e evet s r r e rtts t r 

t r tse etr re. e fivesrt s 

e evet s rsstr s r e re r srt 

strts t Mt. er fises t te es teter. tetes 

re e r tees t ters ete e s r r 

rer te. es s re't et ve t r ee 

cheer participants along the route. 


est of Oregon 

Best Views 

Crater Lake 

WiNNEr crater lake 

Pure silence, not a ripple on the lake, the sun 

rs ver te rter r. s s rter e t r s. 

vr e te st rste es Ert. t t te 

rst e t revte r s 

r ste M e seve es st rter es 

r e ses. re te ves r e te tet 

scenic overlooks along the thirty-three-mile rim drive, some 2,000 

eet ve te este 're re t vert. 

winter, you can snowshoe or cross-country ski the rim. In warmer 

ts e r e t. t t t r eet te 

e e ter ess s e tr tt rs 

eet t eet ve. ts rt te ert ese 

t t te te t re te e. t r 

erve rer rrtes te er tr ers - 

es se r s te t r 

rt. ter te rter s s re tt te t t 

sts t et ests fi ter r ttes. 

rUNNeR-uP 

cascade head 

E sere tre serv 

eete te se e tees 

t ts s es s tt 

t te fi st ves tt re 

second to none. Bring a camera. You might 

glimpse the hairy checkermallow, a purple 

e ers t ste s- 

e e t ers r te re 

sver st tter. st s 

te er serv tr s e er 

r t te rest erve trs re e 

r tr eeer t 

rtet e. 

photo by Andra ohnson 


est of Oregon 

Best Rustic Digs 

WiNNEr 

timberline lodge, GOVERNMENT CAMP 

Evert t te er ere e 

ss rer ts e tve 

stone to hand-woven draperies and wrought-iron details. 

ere t str r ere 

Lodge records two million visitors a year—many come to 

s r sr te ter r t e 

ser. te te ster se Mt. t 

eet e e teree. s v se 

rts rts est e t vst. 

rt et r rs eee t te 

e ers rs r t r ste rs 

r rs. ste re rre t te e r 

's e rs r reserve te t te e s- 

e . e ts te t re e r te t- 

r s s e err r r t 

te ese ssve rees te vte e. 

r te ere r ss se reet 

etre ver rs s rtre. 

Timberline Lodge 


rUNNeR-uP 

paradise lodge 

st rete ete esre 

Paradise Lodge. This jewel on the Wild and 

e e ver s esse 

rver rt rt t t r s rrt. 

t e etee et rs 

arranged around the historic lodge and 

e rss rfie. e srt ste 

rver t te ers ve ss 

r t rters vte te 

s ss rs. t smer 

day, guests gather at Paradise Lodge 

rsee. t te stres e 

e ts ee 

r tes. 


est of Oregon 

Beverly 

Beach 

rUNNeR-uP wallowas 

For a star-gazing, I’m-alone-in-the-universe ex- 

eree t te Ee eress 

rtest re. e re ste s 

rve se ee 

t te tr t ts rt ever ster 

reeere e. r e 

tfitters re rse r et 

te ev t. e eress esses 

res te t t 

Forest and serves up alpine lakes, meadows and 

stres t es. t ts 

e s s e eer ers t 

ts r see. res re t - 

e rre ree er se 

ste ver rss er 

es er r M Ee 

t te st e. 

Best Camping 

photo 

by Aubrie LeGault 

WiNNEr beverly beach 

ts t ever e e t te se er 

t t te fi e e tt stretes 

r e t te es tter . 

r te t sse er t rt r te - 

t te s s stes. te seeers 

sr te r sre t te rt ss vers tre st. 

eer ree rs tr te r s - 

s r trers s tet stes tete rts five 

r tet res. st e es rt s Mre res 

te rve t r treet tter . est e- 

eree r te te t s re e. serve 

ser es rr se s. ert eer 

te terrt fis rt r r se rs t 

te re st r. restters.r 

photo by Tyler Roemer 


est of Oregon 

Best Beer WiNNEr ninkasi total domination ipa 

s s e r er t rres 

s ers t tt er eete t tre 

te et etee ts. e rst t 

ss t t t te ret 

se te eer vers ve ee 

te re. e reers ssociation, 

a trade group that tracks industry 

tres e Eeese s te stest 

r re reer te tr 

. t t t eever 

e e e rers e ts te tt 

re t r ttes trt te est. s sre- 

. es t ve re t vstrs re ee ts 

tst r r t tes r vst rts. 

Ninkasi 

rUNNeR-uP boneyard rpm ipa 

eerse e er ereer. t strte re ter reers st e- 

et. s ers ter te reer t ee t e r ers re r ss er 

Meee tre. e e t tste ts s re M s r te t eter ers tse 

tst r es r ere t reet fie rers st ees r 

restrts s rss re st. sr er e fitrre rt 

t es rt e t ts rret tet rres. 

Rex Hill Reserve 

Pinot noir 

Best Wine WiNNEr Rex hill reserve pinot noir 

r er te rter ette e e sse r 

ts ers t t ers es ts essre r 

vers trt ret te e t. t e eees 

te e ers sse se rt tre sste r 

e rtes rt reee tet t strete te 

r. este t eter tters r te r ses r 

e te eserve t r e ve vers s t t te er se ttes 

st e ve e ss. e er re. ees vstrs ts str tst 

r eer tsts re ree t rse. e s ers trs 

rUNNeR-uP arborbrook 2010 vintner's select pinot noir 

t tte rrrs ters eet t r ve t rr. e te eer 

er s ee s re eer e rets tee e eret vves 

trserr eevet e e t se rre r ter seve ts. e rest s e t 

er tet re etrs. rrr er ve se ss te vters seet 

s t t te er s e ttes et r e s te s tes. 

rrres. 


est of Oregon 

Best Destination 

Restaurant 

Pub & Brewery 

Pelican 

WiNNEr pelican 

pub & brewery, 

pacific city 

res ert reer 

te e reer s te 

rt eer re t e ets. rester 

rr es tet r rt fie es s ere 

te e rsre te er t te 

ret er eer estv re re- 

t te r eer t t 

sver es reet r te Ere eer tr 

M er. te te e t e 

fi t te e reer e- 

reer. serves r ever ette rest 

lunch and dinner. Order the pale-malt crusted salmon 

r t t Me tts e r tr te 

vee rer e t set rs r te re- 

ress. rt revees r es eest 

re verst e t sve te e- 

ere re verst tter. r s e 

te t svr te ves st 

e srers r te ves. rs 

te reer re ve reest. 

rUNNeR-uP 

the joel palmer house, dayton 

e e er se eerse. ses tet 

rer te et srsre sre 

se t te tte re e st. ere tr t ee 

t res e re tre t r rts ss er rt 

eert e restrter rster re. et 

te tr resee t re eer e er 

str tt te ert re e tr. re 

sests es treesr trt t t r. e es 

tr tr ers rer te treerse e r te 

seve t etrse sr ess tst t . te te 

restrt ses r e. t . . 


est of Oregon 

Archery 

Summit 


Best Winery 

WiNNEr 

archery summit 

rve r tse t s stee rve 

e t te tes t r eve. Ever et rer 

ts ert ses t te r es rte res first 

eret rvt er. e s erest 

ete rvt r srt este te t 

r t te erett ves tt res e. 

t te er s ere rett r e 

and layered Pinot noirs. It produces six single-vineyard wines, a cuve 

te ser rs. t e res re te 

in Pinot noir grapes. One acre is devoted to Pinot gris. Interestingly, 

ts rt te s ret ee eer 

Mter erer e rte. st te ste 

tst r tr te eee e r e s. st s 

trs . rerst. 

rUNNeR-uP 

king estate 

King Estate, located near Eugene, is credited with making Pinot 

rs vrte te e rers t t s res eeet 

t r te t r. trte 

te te re estte erres restses 

r sste r ets. strs 

e r ves te re e et te se 

restrt s e t te tst r. estte. 

Deschutes 

Brewery 

Best Brewery 

deschutes brewery, portland 

t sess re e ts tte rter te estse rter 

te tr estes reer estesreer. e t s te t eter 

eerv rts e r v te st res er t te t. 

estes ee verte s te er strt ere 

s trsts eeree ste r tt s rt e 

rt se r. e est t eeree rt eer s t te ss s 

estes reer. t ts ree set s rs r te re ress t ee - 

re tte tt evet e te te. rer vrte e te s s r te 

eer s tt rse ee t e te etee eers t. 

photo by ichael athers 

rUNNeR-uP 

10 barrel, bend 

st s te rt eer re t rre re rre. ee 

re es est se . t s ee r te ve ever se r r 

rre sste ts te e t e ee fitrre rt t. rter rrett 

es eets t t e r te rret rre tt t rres 

ers. E tst rer evere t te r vest treet . 

eer r te tr fire t e t r te r s se 

ter rre eers rer stres rss te rtest. 


est of Oregon 

Pink 

Martini 

Best 

Musician |Band 

WiNNEr pink martini 

rUNNeR-uP 

mel brown 

quartet 

Every Wednesday night, jazz 

lovers can hear the Mel Brown 

rtet r M... err t 

Ms rt- 

s er strt. e rtet 

ssts eer rer 

Mel Brown, Tony Pacini on the 

E eett ss 

er tr ing 

what Brown calls “straight- 

e ste tt e 

t e te s. ere 

turning to jazz, Brown appeared 

with many Motown musicians— 

Mrt te es - 

ss e rees 

Mrv e e etts 

teve er e son 

and others. M.B.Q. has re- 

rte t s te 

ers e t e 

coming out in 2013. 

Mrt e res er t ts - 

s rs s re . s ere ss 

tre st e te r . rt tereter e tee t 

rvr sste vst res t rte ss. t s rtts 

r s ter first s te ee vert sest re 

ere t s te r s te er. e te te te t teveeer 

ette restr s rere s st s trtee es ts - 

e e ers e r eres . ts re ses ve te 

t . etrsetve reese s e vrtes 

reese trs. e reet ete tr t ser r 

s rret err trt te te ttes Ere 

t ree t te e r s. r te reese et 

trte t s er. rt. 

photo by Heidi Swift 


est of Oregon 

Highway 

101 

Best Oregon 

Road Trip 


WiNNEr 

hIGHWAY 101 

e re st s t vs est r tse rte te 

e re r str t rs. est svre 

ver sever s trveers te re te 

stormy coastline can tour museums, lighthouses and art galleries. Pull 

t se vers t s r es s te sr r r 

es re sre tre es ees e e- 

s r r ves r e t rste t s t e 

seve re res. t t e te ets stte rs sre 

end-to-end, with the highest concentration along the central coast. 

t tet r et ere t r te r te tee 

e t e er e. re te 

rve sr ve r e te 

stre r tss r r t . E stre se s 

s s s er eess r t re 

e r rt eer. 

rUNNeR-uP 

columbia river gorge 

errsset res t esres te sevet es te ver e este t 

str r. M te s t . eeer rve ts te te eer terstte sses te 

res se str e fiee. ts e r t st se five es st ters eve 

. etfive es stre r te s srer e rre ver. st te 

re sver eter e es e r e e t e sets te ver tte r. 

Best Place to Impress Out of Towners 

WiNNEr 

multnomah falls 

ere st e ter s ts res vers tr rs te 

rt te et Mt s. e ttere t ter 

ever s t ress. ert res est e te trs test 

err ters te sr rr ts ter er e e- 

eree vete r te r t terstte . srt 

ste t es tre re etee te t ses er- 

et ve te t er ter eet ter e. 

ter e t te t r rsee ve te re r se 

e tes t str Mt s e t . rv t 

t er e eet r te ters e rs t te 

er eert ss re e t r te ts e- 

rt st te tre r ve. 

Multnomah 

Falls 

rUNNeR-uP 

southern oregon 

e stest rer re r ser t t s te est 

eesrt t rs te est s setes vere trsts. ste. 

e re s re t se rvers eres rts rers 

s estvs teter rts re. e ster rt 

s r te st se te etre re ste. ter ts 

re esere estv re ves t Met str sve 

te ters te rt ver te ete e r. 



Just steps away from Terwilliger 

Plaza you will find world-class 

music, art, theater and culture. 

It’s a big part of what makes 

Portland a unique, creatively 

driven city. And it’s waiting 

for you. 

A 62+ Community in the Heart of Portland, Oregon 

terwilligerplaza.com • 503.299.4716

Food & Home 

Rooftop 

gardening 

One cool 

remodel 

+ 

100 Farm to Table 

 

 

104 Oregon Recipes 

 

 

106 Home Grown Chef 

 

 

108 Design 

A 

 

photo by oe Whittle 

Farm to Table 

Bounty from the rooftop 

garden of Noble Rots 

chef, Leather Storrs. 

photo by Leah Nash

Food & Home 

farm to tabe 

Roof to 

Tablewritten 

by Lynne Curry 

photos by Leah Nash 

LEATHER STORRS IS A BRASH FORMER BAD BOY who 

crashed and burned his first restaurant, Rocket. In 2011, he 

won Food Network’s Extreme Chef by cooking a flank steak 

on a muscle car engine block. And there’s his name, more fitting 

for an outlaw than gourmand. So, how could this guy be a 

role model of the farm-to-table chef? 

On an unusually sunny fall day in Portland, Storrs crouches 

over a raised bed in the rooftop garden of Noble Rot, the wine 

bar he owns with his wife, Courtney, and business partner 

Kimberly Bernosky. His hands move with familiarity through 

the lacey leaves of what looks like cilantro. “Delfino,” he says, in 

a voice that sounds like rocks stirred in a water glass. “I prefer 

it to cilantro, because it’s more mild.” He touches the tendrils 

with an improbable delicacy for such meaty hands he calls his 

“Fred Flintstone mitts.” 

At this stage, the plants are going to seed. “I love to pick 

things at varying stages of development, the natural progression,” 

he says, pulling off the tiny green rounds he’ll brine like 

capers. “Here’s the plant, here’s the seed—seeing the cycle.” 

Born and raised in Portland, Storrs started in the kitchen 

at the Heathman Hotel more than twenty years ago. His formal 

education at the Culinary Institute of America included 

a six-week internship at Chez Panisse with Alice Waters. For 

locavores, that’s the modern equivalent of consulting the clairvoyant, 

Pythia, at the Oracle at Delphi. Storrs was unfazed. “I 

showed up at 7 a.m. and spent seven hours rinsing and spinning 

lettuce in a crappy home-sized spinner,” he remembers. 

His career from there was no less dicey—stints as head chef, 

caterer, assistant winemaker and restaurant reviewer for Citysearch—as 

was his reputation after his failed Rocket in 2009. 

“I got into cooking for the idea that I could impose myself on 

food,” he offers. As a devotee of molecular gastronomy, he expressed 

his style using space-age techniques Storrs now sees as 

technology for technology's sake. “I step back more now," he 

observes. "When working with a turnip, I express the 'turnipness' 

to show people the turnip we harvested when it was little, 

and have them taste our soil.” 

Since taking over the menu at Noble Rot three years ago, 

Storrs also guest chefs at sold-out Plate & Pitchfork farm din- 


CLOCKWISE Storrs planter of 

radicchio. Storrs tending to his 

greens. Duck-wrapped radicchio 

with honey. Inside Noble Rot.

Food & Home 

farm to tabe 

ners. His mushroom foraging expertise brought him a guest host gig on ABC’s “The Chew,” a program 

about food. On a daily basis, he tends his aquifer-fed eco-roof garden plot with sweeping views of the 

Willamette River and Portland's west side. He dedicates all 3,000 square feet to growing edibles. His 

mantra for menu planning is, “Let the roof decide.” 

“It’s so sad this time of year,” he says, surveying the fall crops. Sure, the sungolds have dropped into 

the soil, but there are still lush plots of mustards, mizuna, kale and arugula at their sweetest. There is the 

broccoli Storrs grows for its satiny, mildly cabbage leaves and Hungarian hot peppers. There are timely 

Mission figs—“a day away from ripe,” he declares after sampling. There are beehives that amazingly produced 

a few quarts of honey in their first year. 

Today, he harvests the first of the radicchio to put on the menu. Scarlet-rimmed heads crowd the bed 

like floral bouquets—beautiful and bitter. “I thought I’d ice it in a couple of changes of water to rescue 

some sweetness,” Storrs announces. “Then, we’ll char it and wrap it in our bacon.” 

With tiny scissors a tailor might use, Storrs selects from his plots penny-sized nasturtium leaves, 

young sorrel and the last yellow beans. His experience runs deep, beginning, as a child, with weeding 

his mother’s vegetable garden in southwest Portland. For the restaurant, his intimacy with each plant 

means that each ingredient is ideally fresh and diners get a true sense of the cycle of farm to table. “A 

surprising number of cooks don’t know how things grow,” muses Storrs. 

This rooftop garden produces about sixty percent of Noble Rot’s needs from July to the third week in 

September. After that, Storrs resorts to “a lot of pickling, drying and hot sauce.” The rest he sources from 

loyal producers. He’s no purist, no Alice Waters, nor does he strive to be. 

Downstairs in the kitchen, Storrs soaks and sears the radicchio, but, lacking bacon, improvises with 

house-smoked duck breast. The renaissance chef cures all his own meats, makes sausage and ferments 

sauerkraut and kimchee. The completed dish is a whole head of radicchio di Treviso drizzled with 

house honey, wrapped in duck and plated with baby turnips, and a salad of sorrel, nasturtium leaves, 

sliced hot pepper and the delfino. The roof has decided. 

“You have to be creative, think on your feet to see what’s at the market on any given day,” counsels this 

out-of-the-ordinary farm-to-table chef. “It’s dangerous to stick to a recipe.” 

CLOCKWISE (from top left) A member of 

the gardening program strolls the rooftop 

garden. Baby turnips. aking the duckwrapped 

radicchio. Storrs in the kitchen. 


Oregon Living 

oregon recipes 

>> A salad, a sauce and a starter. Here are a few creative sidedishes and appetizers 

from Noble Rot chef, Leather Storrs, and Heidi Tunnell of Heidi Tunnell Catering. 

Noble Rot 

Portland | noblerotpdx.com 

Chef Leather Storrs 

Mâche Salad with Hazelnut 

Vinaigrette|Makes 8 servings 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total time: 20 minutes 

1 

1 

1 

2 

 

 

8 

Put all wet ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake it 

into submission. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and 

adjust acid and oil ratios to your palate. 

Toss the mche gently with a little dressing (you can always 

add, but never take away). 

Avoid too much handling so it stays poofy. Garnish with 

some toasted hazelnuts if youd like. 

STORRS' VINAIGRETTE MASTER FORMULA 

Allium (onion family member)acidmustardoil 

seasoninggarnish (optional). Alliums include garlic, 

shallots, onions, chives, leeks scallions. 

Acids might be any kind of vinegar or fruit juice or a 

combination. 

Wet mustard (Dijon). 

Oil olive, grape seed, avocado, almond, canola, bacon 

fat, or brown butter. 

For more recipes and our Home Grown blog, 

visit 1859magazine.com/food-drink 

Sauce Maltaise (Blood Orange 

Hollandaise)| Makes 8 servings 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


3 

 

12 

1 

12 

2 

12 B 

est blood oranges. Boil two pots of water. Pour hot 

water from one pot into your blender to warm it up. In 

hot water from the tap, submerge three whole eggs. elt 

the butter and keep it warm and liquid. Blanch the blood 

oranges in the other pot of boiling water three times. 

uice the oranges and strain the juice. In a saucepan over 

medium-high heat, combine the juice, the vinegar, the 

sugar and the zest. Reduce on the stove by half. Strain out 

the zest and reserve.Spill the hot water out of the blender. 

Separate the yolks and drop them into the blender. 

Add a pinch of salt, half the juice mix and the mustard. 

Blend for 30 seconds. Add the remaining juice and the 

xantham gum. With the blender running, dribble in the 

butter. Increase the stream as the mixture thickens. If it 

gets too thick, add water or lemon juice to thin. When 

the butter is totally incorporated, turn off the blender, 

transfer the sauce maltaise to a warm bowl and taste for 

seasoningsalt, pepper or zest. Serve over or along side 

of steamed asparagus. 

Heidi Tunnell Catering 

Cresswell | heiditunnellcatering.com 

Chef Heidi Tunnell 

Black Pepper Beef on Hazelnut 

and Blue Cheese Cracker 

Makes 100 crackers 

 

 

 

 

 


1 

12 

1 13 

1 

1 1 

12 

Cream butter and cheese together. Add flour, salt and 

pepper, scraping down the sides as needed to fully 

incorporate. Add your nely chopped nuts at the end. 

(ake sure these are nely chopped or it will make 

slicing the crackers difcult.) Roll into logs (like making 

freezer cookies), wrap in plastic wrap and freeze. 

When you are ready to bake, remove them from the 

freezer and let them sit for 0-30 minutes. Slice into 

thin rounds, about 1/8-inch thick. Line up on a parchment 

lined and sprayed sheet pan. Bake at 350F until 

they are lightly browned, about 10-15 minutes. 

CRACKER TOPPINGS 

Caramelized Onions 

Slowly cook down thinly sliced onions in oil until soft 

and golden brown. 

Black Pepper Beef 

Use grass-fed tenderloin or an eye round (or any beef 

cut that stays tender when sliced thinly). First cut the 

pieces down to sizes that will slice into rounds about 

1 inch in diameter. Next coat the pieces in freshly 

ground pepper. Sear the pieces in a hot cast iron pan 

on all sides we tend to keep the pieces nice and rare. 

Cut beef into thin slices. 


Oregon Living 

home grown 

Home Grown Chef 

written and photographed by Carrie Minns 

I HAVE A STRONG AFFINITY FOR GREEN FOOD. Hand me a turkey and cheese panini, and I’m going to 

tuck in some arugula. A white bean and sausage soup? I’m stirring in spinach. A slice of cheese pizza? 

There better be a salad on the side. 

Based on my own experience, I know that getting green food past my children, and occasionally my 

husband, can require covert actions. With this dish, I tuck the kale under the cozy blanket of Gruyere 

cheese and creamy potatoes. Before my children dish up, I see them eye the kale, even hesitate a bit, 

but when they ask, “What is this?” I simply reply, “Oh, it’s those cheesy potatoes. The ones I always serve 

with sliced ham. You love ‘em.” And with that, they scoop it up and eat it by the forkful. 

If one of your New Year’s resolutions is eating healthier, and consuming more leafy green vegetables, 

but you’re unsure how to get it past other family members, don’t be afraid to hide it 

under and behind more approachable foods. 

I tend to serve these potatoes alongside thick slices of ham that I picked up in my deli 

section. Sometimes I go for the double green, serving steamed broccoli with it. The meal 

is wholly satisfying on a rainy winter’s evening and transports me to a little hamlet in 

England, beneath a plaid wool blanket, reading Jane Eyre ... even though I’m at 

home watching "Grimm." 

Cheesy Potatoes 

Serves 8 | Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time: 45 minutes 

2 

 

 

2 

1 

 

2 

2 

 

 

A 

 

1 

 

Put prepared potatoes in a large pot. Sprinkle in a pinch or two of salt. Cover potatoes with 

cold water by an inch or so. Bring water to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and boil uncovered 

for about 10-15 minutes, or until they can be easily pricked with a fork. Once done, 

drain and set aside. Preheat oven to 350F. 

While potatoes are cooking, prep your kale. Remove the tough middle ribs and discard. 

Chop the remaining leaves. Grate your cheese. Heat milk by microwaving one 

minute at a time. Stir after each heating and continue to heat until hot, but not boiling. 

Repeat about -3 times. 

In a saucepan, melt your butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in your flour and stir 

1- minutes until a paste forms. Slowly add your warmed milk, whisking continuously. 

Continue to whisk the milk, butter and flour together until thickened and lumps have 

disappeared, about 3- minutes. Remove from heat and stir in salt, pepper, nutmeg, 

and 1 cup of cheese. 

Combine your potatoes and kale in a 9 x 13 baking dish. Pour milk and cheese sauce 

over the potatoes and kale. Gently stir the mixture to coat evenly. Sprinkle remaining 

cup of cheese and breadcrumbs over the top. Bake at 350F for 0 minutes or until 

the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown. Enjoy. 


Oregon Living 

design 

A Creative 

Accord 

written by Melissa Dalton 

photos by Dina Avila 

Two friends use salvaged and recycled materials 

to create an artful home from a ho-hum house 

There are two types of prospective homebuyers: those who search for the house of their dreams, 

tse rete t. ter se ers sste ree er first e t ree 

and salvaged materials—with the help of close friend and designer, Anne De Wolf of Arciform— 

e fiet e te tter . 

"YES" 

It was a warm August day in 1992 when Nancy Ranchel's mother arrived at her daughter's apartment 

to take her house shopping. At the time, Ranchel was "just a kid" in her mid-twenties and 

thought that she couldn't afford to buy a house. But she hopped in the car and humored her 

mom anyway. As the two women walked through a 1978 house in the Markham neighborhood 

in Portland, Ranchel wasn't impressed until they stepped out onto the back deck. At 1,500 square 

feet, the deck was almost as big as the house and overlooked a spacious lot surrounded by 

trees. t tere e tt es. se fire t t te ve te 

nondescript house that came with it. 


 

 

A

design 

Oregon Living 


Oregon Living 

design 

"LITTLE-BY-LITTLE" 

Like many new homeowners, Ranchel's earliest decisions about her loft-style house 

dealt with paint colors and little else. The open floor plan was intimidating at first, 

because design choices for one room could easily affect the next. Luckily she had 

her notebook. Pale green and spiral bound, the notebook's pages overflowed with 

magazine pictures, newspaper stories and handwritten notes—any image or idea that 

caught Ranchel's imagination, she tucked inside to germinate. In 1994, Ranchel also 

met designer Anne De Wolf, who was still in design school. The two women hit it off 

immediately, and Ranchel had found the perfect partner with whom to discuss her 

design ideas. 

One day in 2000, De Wolf called Ranchel to tell her about some old wood she had 

recovered from an attic renovation. An avid recycler and lover of old things, Ranchel 

was intrigued, so she and DeWolf installed the wood in the first-floor guest room. 

This was the spark that Ranchel needed. Afterward, she says, "I just started tackling 

the house, little by little." 

Next, Ranchel and De Wolf addressed a prominent feature wall in the living room. 

It was two-stories of knotty pine veneer and garishly patterned brown tile, with a 

wood stove propped in front. "It was nasty," Ranchel remembers. De Wolf suggested 

replacing the veneer with large sustainably harvested cherry panels. Upon its completion, 

Ranchel decided everything in her house should be just as beautiful and unusual. 

"It was an epiphany I had," she says. "I don't want anything regular." 

 

 

 

 

E 

2 12 

A N 

A 

 



ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE 

Since then, the friends have collaborated to renovate almost every room of the 

1,850-square-foot house, using salvaged or sustainable materials as much as possible. 

Their creative process is fluid. "When Nancy and I design, it's a very quick process,” 

says De Wolf. “She wants to consider everything. Nothing is a bad idea, but she knows 

what she likes." 

By 2002, Ranchel had so many ideas coming out of her notebook that her kitchen 

cabinets were plastered with magazine pictures. When she started to remodel in earnest, 

she was no longer intimidated by the decisions she had to make. For the first 

floor, she chose repurposed wood from pickle barrels for the flooring. The galley 

kitchen was reshaped using a salvaged steel I-beam along the ceiling to define its new 

square footprint. In the dining room, the two replaced the sagging pine veneer and 

mirrored tile ceiling with panels of sheet metal. The metal oxidized almost immediately, 

its warm rust color meshing with the cherry wood of the feature wall. 

In the downstairs bathroom, they dropped a sink basin into an antique sidephoto 

by Dina Avila

Oregon Living 

design 

board. The original hollow core door did not open easily into the small space, so they 

put a salvaged wood door—one saved from a fire and still showing the burn marks—on 

barn door castors. They exchanged the charred screen with shiny metal to add a little 

glamour. 

The staircase up to the second floor has risers with colorful mosaics of broken scrap 

tile and De Wolf 's childhood marble collection, as well as an artfully welded scrap metal 

balustrade. Upstairs, in the master bathroom, a wall of shallow cabinets is faced with 

more sheet metal, some with the manufacturers code still stamped on it, providing an 

industrial contrast to the glossy marble floors. The master bedroom overlooks the living 

room below, so the entire ceiling is tiled in a herringbone pattern of renewable bamboo 

and Kirei board. The floor is composed of soft butter yellow recycled leather tiles from 

EcoDomo. When Ranchel first mentioned using the leather, her mother wondered if 

the material would mar easily and suggested that guests not walk on the new floor. But 

Ranchel rather encourages scuff marks—the more beat up, the better—and hopes the 

floor will one day achieve the patina of a vintage leather coat. 

More recently, Ranchel and De Wolf had a shipping container crane-dropped into 

the backyard to provide an office space. The interior walls of the 200-square-foot space 

are paneled in wind-fallen hemlock and alder. As an added touch, they had the Arciform 

crew use a router to trace lines along the wood's natural grain. To save valuable 

space, Ranchel suggested they install tray tables on the walls, an idea that came to her 

while on an airplane full of them. De Wolf attached vintage paintings to the undersides 

so that the tables become artwork when closed. A small bathroom is partitioned by two 

custom shelving units, of which the center unit revolves on an old carburetor. A nearby 

sink basin tops a salvaged tree stump. 

Even the beloved deck would eventually need Ranchel's attention. Its upkeep proved 

tiresome, and during a gathering with friends, she landed a pogo stick right through the 

rotted wood. In the past few months, she's collected more than 50,000 pounds of scrap 

metal from a closed pulp mill in Albany, and the new deck design will creatively meld 

the metal with concrete and brick. As she and De Wolf planned the install, Ranchel also 

decided to lay the foundation for a tower to be built on the lot. It's an idea that she and 

De Wolf joked about at first but which quickly engaged Ranchel's imagination. 

Now, she imagines expanding the tower to three stories that would include extra 

storage, a guest bedroom and a cozy penthouse suite for entertaining. 

B 

A F 

B A 

See a gallery converted shipping containers 

at 1859magazine.com/shipping-container. 

DE WOLF'S SUGGESTIONS FOR REPURPOSING A SHIPPING CONTAINER 

ACCESS|Consider how to install the container on your property and factor that into the 

overall budget. Ranchel used a crane, which increased costs. 

INSULATION|Set insulation in only the deeper cavities of the container to save interior 

space. Insulated containers are also available to purchase. 

TO PLUMB OR NOT|Know how you want to use the space before adding plumbing. In 

Portland, says De Wolf, no additional permits are needed as long as you don't plumb the 

container, and it's 200-square-feet or less. 

ELECTRICITY|Be okay with exposed conduits, as electrical outlets are hard to hide in the 

container's shallow walls. Floor-mounted outlets can be a fun option. 

VENTILATION|De Wolf had a large opening cut into the side of the container, then installed 

sliding glass doors with metal fabricated screens. This allows Ranchel to control the amount 

of light, air and privacy. 


photo by Heather Hawksford 

HAVE FUN!|With such a small space, Ranchel and De Wolf got even more creative with 

their salvaged décor. Antique sprinkler heads became clothing hooks and an agricultural 

water trough is now a shower basin. Ranchel got to see more ideas from her notebook 

come to life.

541-342-5777 

Residential, Commercial, Interiors 

one people + one environment = 2fORM Architecture

I’m Genna Reeves-DeArmond, 

doctoral candidate from OSU. I’m 

traveling all over the country to 

conduct my Ph.D research, and I use 

the Eugene Airport. 

I’m studying how visitors to Titanic 

museums use dress to learn about 

and personally relate to the history 

of 100 years ago. 

One of the ways people connect 

with Titanic’s history is through the 

clothes worn by passengers on the 

ship, including their social class, life 

story and experiences aboard the 

ship. Traveling then took so much 

planning and now it’s so easy! 

I use the Eugene Airport- 

It fits my style.

Outdoors 

Upland bird 

hunting 

+ 

Mt. Everest's first 

American female 

116 Adventures 

 

 

 

+ 

122 Athlete Profile 

 

A 

E 

photo by Tyler Roemer 

Adventures 

The grand lodge at Highland Hills Ranch.

written by Eric Flowers 

photos by Tyler Roemer 

The 

Upland 

Bird Hunt 

Into the brush for one of 

Oregon's oldest traditions

adventures 

Outdoors 

S“SHIT! UNBELIEVABLE,” 

MUTTERS TIM CURRY as his 

blaze orange baseball cap is ripped off his 

head by a gale force gust of wind and careens 

out of the truck cab—again. Curry, 

a veteran hunting guide and dog trainer, 

scurries around the front bumper of his 

pickup truck and snatches his lid from 

nearby sagebrush before it tumbles down 

the looming ridge. 

It’s an inauspicious start to a two-day 

whirlwind wing shooting tour at the 

Highland Hills Ranch, a 3,000-acre destination 

hunting lodge that draws guests 

from around the world, but has remained 

a relatively well-kept secret among residents 

of this state. 

There are plenty of other shooting preserves 

and hunting lodges in the West, 

and more than a few here in Oregon. 

Few, however, can match Highland Hills’ 

combination of natural abundance and 

meticulous management. From hosted 

three-course dinners savored around a 

communal table to traditional Englishstyle 

driven hunts with afternoon single 

malt Scotch around the bonfire, Highland 

Hills has elevated the wing shooting 

experience to an art form—at a price, of 

course. It's $3,100 for a three-night stay with four hunts, and 

three-course meals in the Orvis-endorsed lodge that serves as 

home base and the center of social activity at the ranch. 

Depending on whom you ask, the allure is the hunting or the 

accommodations. But that’s a bit like quibbling over a Napa 

Cabernet versus an Oregon Pinot—it’s a win-win proposition. 

What everyone can agree on is that Highland Hills is one of 

the few places in the country where guests have a legitimate 

shot at bagging the proverbial “grand slam” —a pheasant, chukar, 

Hungarian partridge and quail in a single day. Although at 

Highland Hills, guests who want bragging rights are required 

to complete the slam in a single hunt, rather than an entire day, 

due to the prolific nature of the wing shooting opportunities. 

Today that goal seems like a long shot. A once-in-a-decade 

windstorm that’s brought 80 mph winds to the Oregon Coast 

has delivered 60 mph gusts along the ridge where Curry has 

brought my companions and me to work the rugged high 

country for chukar. 

A relatively abundant breed of partridge, chukars were introduced 

to Oregon in the 1950s from their native India and 

have flourished, particularly in the eastern high desert. When 

it comes to game birds, transplants are the norm, though Oregon 

does have some native quail and grouse populations. 

Kevin Schaffer watches as one of the German 

shorthairs pounces through the brush. 

Hungarian partridge, for example, were introduced into the 

United States from Eastern Europe in the early twentieth century 

while ring-neck pheasants trace their origins to the country 

of Georgia in the former Soviet Bloc. 

While prolific, chukar are valued more for the chase than 

the table. But like most guests at Highland Hills, we’re less 

concerned about filling our freezers than we are with testing 

our shooting skills. Though it seems unlikely at first, as the 

winds menacingly buffet Curry’s truck, shoot we will. Before 

the first hunt ends, I’ve shot through an entire box of number 

six, 12-gauge shells and have the sore shoulder to prove it. 

By Highland Hills standards, this is difficult hunting. As 

Curry predicted, the birds had hunkered down. “They’re like 

people or anything else; they look for shelter in these kinds of 

conditions,” Curry advises as we plunge into the thicket of sage 

scrub that runs like veins up the hillside draws. 

Curry’s pair of German shorthaired pointers work in tandem 

with a third dog, Rogue, an English Cocker Spaniel with 

a handsome face. (Curry was once offered $5,000 on the spot 

by a client who wanted the dog for his wife in Texas.) Using 

a combination of voice commands, whistles, and when all 

else fails, an electric collar, Curry guides the dogs in sweeping 

arcs in front of our hunting party. The trio bounds through 


Outdoors 

adventures 

LEFT The hunting dogs get a bath after a hard 

days work. ABOVE Lamb chops from chef Keith 

Potter. A ring-neck pheasant. 

the knee-high sagebrush, noses pinned to the ground in search of a 

scent that puts them on the tail of one of the tight holding chukar. 

The shorthaired pointers work frantically, spinning dervishes in 

the sage brush and letting out with the occasional yelp. Then they 

sight the bird and the dogs freeze stock still, tails extended in the 

classic “point” position. Unmolested, the dogs held their points for 

minutes on end in an almost comic standoff with the bird. Curry 

advises us to move slowly forward, closing in on the quarry. At that 

point, he sends in Rogue, a “flushing” dog, who scampers past the 

statuesque shorthair pointers. 

The goal of course, is to get the birds into the air where my partner 

and I can have a clean shot as they peel away, wings drumming. This 

is the moment of truth—the so-called flush—a split second from the 

explosion of sound and flash of wings to the squeeze of the trigger. 

For veteran bird hunters it’s a pure reflex game. The index releases the 

safety as the gun comes to the shoulder, and the shooter draws a bead 

on the bird. A squeeze of the trigger is followed by either a tumbling 

bird or a second, usually unsuccessful, shot at a bird quickly moving 

out of range. According to Curry, a pair of accomplished shooters 

might bag thirty birds in a morning shoot. Our final tally after threeplus 

hours of hunting: sixteen chukar and a few tired dogs. We’re not 

disappointed, though. To the contrary, we’re delighted, given such 

difficult conditions. 

Back at the lodge, we rendezvous with the other hunting party, 

a family of four from South Carolina, led by patriarch, Page Morris. 

Morris learned about the lodge from the Berretta store in New 

York City, which he frequented when his oldest son, Frank, was attending 

Columbia University. This outing is a makeup of sorts. In 

spring 2011, Morris brought only his youngest son, Ambrose, to 

experience the lodge first hand. That didn’t sit well with the two 

older Morris boys, who were regaled with stories of epic hunts in 

the ensuing days and weeks. 

“When we got back and his brothers heard all about it, there was 

discreet jealously. And it was discreet,” Morris says of his sons, who 

are nothing if not well mannered. “So I said. ‘Let’s square things up. 

I’ll figure out a way to get you guys out there.’” 

This past spring, he returned with eldest son, Frank, and middle 

son, Montgomery. Less than nine months later, the full contingent of 

Morris boys was back for a pre-Thanksgiving hunt. 

With the impending holiday just a few days out, we had the lodge 

mostly to ourselves. Typically the 20,000-square-foot log lodge hosts 

groups of twenty-one people, who are privy to a well-stocked serveyourself 

bar, game room with a billiards table and soaring great room 

with panoramic views of the property. 

The mood was casual as usual around the table, with owner Dennis 

and Mindi Macnab rounding out the lunch group. Sitting down for 

a good meal after the first hunt is a time to swap stories and to get to 

know our hunting companions and hosts. We discussed everything 

from the regal roots of driven hunts to the folly of alligator management 

in South Carolina. It’s all done over a tangy caprese salad 

served with warm artisan bread and a savory sausage minestrone 

soup prepared in-house by chef, Keith Potter, who works in an openair 

kitchen adjacent to the living room. Potter, who grew up in the 

area and previously cooked at the revamped Condon Hotel, provides 

intermittant insight and commentary on the food and the resort 

where he has served as the executive chef for three seasons. 

After topping off with dessert, we’ve got some time to gather our 

thoughts and enjoy some downtime before the afternoon hunt. Our 

crew retires back to our wi-fi equipped two-person cabins to send a 

few emails, and rest our eyes and legs before heading out. The cabins 

are cozy, with two queen beds, a gas fireplace and a bathroom with 

a tile shower. 

For Dennis Macnab, whose family homesteaded near the spot 

where Lewis and Clark crossed the John Day River at McDonald 

Ferry, the ranch represented a return to the land. When he is not 

overseeing things at Highland Hills, he is a dentist in The Dalles. 


Outdoors 

adventures 

Top Hunting Lodges & 

Outfitters in Oregon 

HIGHLAND HILLS RANCH, Condon 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RATES 

EEN A A E NN 

3100 

FN A EE A E NN 

0 

FEA ENE EN N 

80 

ROE OUTFITTERS, Klamath Falls 

A hunter walks the vast elds outside Highland Hills Ranch near 

Condon. 

Seventeen years ago, he and wife, Mindi, bought the property, and planted 

cherry trees and hundreds of acres of corn and milo to provide ample habitat 

for pheasants. While the hunting season runs roughly six months of the 

year from October to April, maintaining the ranch is a year-round job that the 

Macnabs balance with Dennis’ dental practice. The hunting business was hit 

by the recession, but things have perked up over the past couple of years, with 

small groups and corporate clients grabbing almost all of the available slots. 

They know that once they’ve gotten a guest such as former governor Ted 

Kulongoski or former Anaheim Angels slugger and World Series hero, Tim 

Salmon, through the door for the first time, it’s likely that he will be back sooner 

rather than later. Mindi, who handles most of the group bookings, logistics 

and public relations, estimates that 80 percent of Highland Hills business is 

composed of return guests. 

While even a half day feels like a full day at Highland Hills, Curry had saved 

the best for the afternoon, a lowland hunt along the banks of Rock Creek at the 

bottom of the valley in a thick patch of milo with Curry’s yellow lab and the 

ever-willing Rogue. Suffice it to say that the wind died down and the birds got 

up for us. 

We finished the day with a catch of ring-neck pheasants that the staff cleaned 

and dressed for us. As dusk turned to twilight, we reluctantly shouldered our 

guns and hiked back to Curry’s truck. Dogs loaded and birds stowed, we climbed 

up the road toward the lodge, glowing in the distance on its hilltop perch. We 

knew that a warm towel, cold beer and hot meal would nicely fuel the conversation 

in anticipation of a full day's hunt at Highland Hills Ranch tomorrow. 

 

 

 

F 

 

 

 

 

RATES 

SINGLE-DAY 

00 00 

ULTIDAY WITH LODGING 

1100 

100 

F 1800 

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122 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 201

Oregon Living 

oregon postcard 

Cascades 

First Snow 

I went up to Sparks Lake earlier this fall after the rst snowfall of the season dusted the mountains. The storm was clearing as I 

made my way down to the lake shortly after dawn, and mist was rising off the water. The cloud cover softened the light from the 

rising sun just enough to light up snow-covered South Sister and Broken Top with a beautiful glow. The lake’s surface was still 

enough to beautifully reflect both mountains. A great patch of rock and grass provided the foreground I needed. I mounted my 

camera on a tripod and used a cable release for tack sharp results. Photo by Stuart Gordon. 

Oregon Postcard 

Send us your 

Oregon Postcard 

and win an 1859 T-shirt 

Go to 1859magazine.com/oregon-postcard 

to submit your Oregon photo. The winning 

photo will also be displayed in the next 

issue of 1859. 


Explore Guide 

shopping • events • hotels • restaurants • getaways • boutiques 

1859 - Oregons agazine Eugenes Inn At The 5th are excited to offer a 

special lodging and experience package for the 013 Oregon Truffle Festival, 

anuary 5-. 

Three nights at the luxurious Inn at the 5th hotel, attend a VIP reception, 

join guest chefs for truffle cooking classes, explore the woods on a truffle 

foraging outing and have the best serats for creative meals with truffles 

at their core. 

Reserve your package now by calling 1859 - Oregons agazine at 

800..1859 to make all arrangements. Or go to 

1859magazine.com/013-truffle-festival-package. 

126 / Willamette Valley 

127 / Portland 

128 / Eugene 

130 / Oregon Coast 

131 / Eastern Oregon 

132 / Mt. Hood / Gorge 

134 / Central Oregon 

136 / Southern Oregon 

MORE ONLINE 

 

 

A A B 

 

 

18 E 

WWW.1859MAGAZINE.COM

EXPLORE WILLAMETTE VALLEY 

>> 

The Willamette Valley is known for 

its fantastic Pinot noir and gris, its fertile 

farmland and its state universities— 

the University of Oregon in Eugene, 

and Oregon State University in Corvallis. 

The rolling hills and wet side of the 

Cascades bring Oregon much of her 

bounty with dairies, crops of hazelnuts, 

berries and vegetables. Pass through 

this region and its hundreds of wineries. 

Taste wines and indulge in a delicious 

meal made from the local fertile soils. 

Whether natural or sporting events are 

on the agenda, lush scenery, marching 

bands, Ducks versus Beavers rivalry, 

locavore food, top-notch Pinots, and 

myriad opportunities for hiking, running, 

biking and kayaking are at hand. 

DO & SEE 

Jan 11 

Watts & Beethoven: 

"Emperor" 

Salem 


First Taste Oregon 

Salem 

Jan 25 - 27 

Mo's Crab and 

Chowder Festival 

Turner 

For more on Willamette Valley travel, 

go to 1859magazine.com/travel 

For more information on events, 

go to 1859magazine.com/calendar 

>> 

ARBORBROOK VINEYARDS 

ArborBrook Vineyards owners, Dave 

and ary Hansen, invite you to an 

amazing tasting experience. Visit 

the vineyard tasting room and savor 

hand-crafted wines. Located within 

the Chehalem ountains AVA, ArborBrooks 

wines are a true representation 

of its terroir and sustainable 

farming practices. ArborBrooks tasting 

room, located in its 1910-era barn, is a relaxed atmosphere to sample, savor and 

enjoy. Tasting room hours are 11 a.m. to 30 p.m. daily. No reservations neededjust 

stop in for some of the best Pinots in the region. 

R. STUART & CO 

R. Stuart Co. is housed in a converted granary in 

downtown cinnville. It’s here that they gather 

carefully selected fruit from some of the best vineyards 

in the state. Staying true to the fruit, Rob Stuart 

produces wines that are graceful, honest and 

warm. R. Stuart makes Pinot noir and Pinot gris, as 

well as other specialty winesincluding an Oregon 

sparkling wine. Everyday wines are bottled with 

the Big Fire label. Sample their wines at the R. Stuart 

Wine Bar in downtown cinnville, the perfect 

setting for pairing R. Stuart Wines with good food 

and good friends. 

503.538.0959 17770 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg arborbrookwines.com 

WINDERLEA 

Luxury wines, limited vines. 

Crafting elegant, sensuous and age-worthy 

wines for those who view the pairing 

of wine and food as an essential aspect 

of their lifestyle. This is what Winderlea is 

all about. Winderleas focus is on making 

small lots of Pinot noir and Chardonnay 

that show the best characteristics of each 

vineyard. Hand crafted with minimal intervention 

and the modest use of new 

French oak barrels, Winderleas wines are 

classic in style. Visit Winderlea daily from 

11 a.m. to p.m. 

503.554.5900 8905 NE Worden Hill Rd, Dundee winderlea.com 

12 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE AN FEB 201 

866.472.8614 528 NE Third St., McMinnville rstuartandco.com 

ADELSHEIM 

Established in 191, the family-owned 

and operated winery 

and estate vineyards are 

located in Oregon’s northern 

Willamette Valley. Adelsheim 

welcomes visitors to sample 

a selection of current releases 

in its new tasting room, 

overlooking the Calkins Lane 

Vineyard. Patio seating is available for those who buy a bottle of wine to enjoy 

during a leisurely afternoon in wine country. 

Open seven days, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

503.538.3652 16800 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg adelsheim. com

EXPLORE PORTLAND 

PORTLAND 

>> 

Portland is a city strongly defined 

by its neighborhoods—each known 

for a lifestyle complete with arts, 

eats and oddities. Portland's central 

feature is the Willamette River, 

splitting this green—both urban and 

eco-minded—Oregon hub down the 

center. View the city from one of the 

many famous bridges that link the 

city together. From its craft beers to 

neighborhood coffee, locavore dining 

and, of course, bikes, Portland is 

the Northwest's culture cauldron and 

creative den. An undercurrent of activism 

lines most major happenings. 

Take in the thriving arts scene brimming 

with nonprofits, writers, painters, 

filmmakers, dancers, musicians and 

performance artists or escape the 

buzz on one of the many urban trails. 

DO & SEE 


Old Time Music 

Gathering 

Feb 7 - 13 

Portland International 

Film Festival 


Porltand Jazz Festival 

For more on Portland travel, 

Go To 1859magazine.com/travel 



>> 

OTTO’S SAUSAGE KITCHEN 

After more than 80 years, Otto’s Sausage Kitchen is 

still using the same traditional recipes and handcrafted 

techniques to make delicious high quality sausage. 

The secrets to Otto’s sausages are in the handcrafted 

artisan techniques, recipes and of course the one-ofa-kind 

smokehousewith each secret handed down 

for four generations. Every sausage that they create is 

gluten-free, using high quality beef, pork or chicken. 

See for yourself what Otto’s has to offer. For those who 

are unable to visit, check out Ottos e-store to buy your 

favorite sausages or apparel. 

503.771.6714 4138 SE Woodstock Blvd., Portland ottossausage.com 

PEARL SPECIALTY MARKET & SPIRITS 

Pearl Specialty arket Spirits is an upscale specialty 

retailer located in the heart of the Pearl District. Pearl 

Specialty carries an extensive selection of liquor, mixers, 

wine, craft beers, cigars and barware. It is a haven 

for mixologists seeking those specialty ingredients or 

tools to craft the perfect cocktail, or for the enthusiast 

seeking the perfect cigar from the walk-in humidor to 

pair with a single malt Scotch or a rare, small-batch 

bourbon. See all Pearl Specialtys Oregon wine, beer 

and liquorit makes a great gift 

LAURELHURST MARKET 

At the gates of the Laurelhurst 

neighborhood and just three minutes 

from downtown, Laurelhurst 

arket offers an uniquely Portland 

steakhouse experience. Drawing off 

its own in-house butcher shop, Laurelhursts 

seasonal menu focuses on 

sustainably raised meats highlighted 

by several cuts not common to the 

traditional steakhouse. Awarded one of Bon Appetits Best New Restaurants in 010, 

it has been at the forefront of Portlands growing dining scene, while providing an 

atmosphere for both special occasions and families. 

503.771.6714 4138 SE Woodstock Blvd., Portland ottossausage.com 

HOPWORKS URBAN 

BREWERY & BIKEBAR 

Hopworks Urban Brewery and 

Hopworks BikeBar are Portland’s 

rst eco-brewpubs. Each pub offers 

hand-crafted organic beers 

and a menu featuring fresh, local 

ingredients, all served in sustainably 

built and operated buildings 

with a relaxed, casual atmosphere. 

Hopworks’ twenty-barrel brewery produces 8,500 barrels of beer a year 

for its brewpubs and distribution in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia. 

503.477.8604 900 NW Lovejoy #140, Portland pearlspecialty.com 

To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com 

503.287.MALT 3947 N. Williams Ave. Bikebar 

503.232.HOPS 2944 SE Powell Blvd. hopworksbeer.com 


EXPLORE EUGENE 

PORTLAND 

>> 

Eugene beckons the green-at-heart, 

PAC-12 sports fanatics, followers of Ken 

Kesey and the Merry Pranksters, hippies, 

wanna-be hippies, college students, 

track & field stars and combinations 

of all those types. Settled in the lower 

Willamette Valley, Eugene melds tiedye, 

school colors and rainbow flags 

into one distinctive community. Miles of 

bike paths, and running and hiking trails 

combine with a commitment to sustainable 

living to make this city truly green. 

Oregon Duck football draws enormous 

crowds of 60,000 in a city of 157,000 

during fall weekends. Although the city 

caters to the funky side of life, residents 

and visitors have access to upscale dining, 

lush vineyards, and prestigious concert 

facilities. 

DO & SEE 


An Evening with 

Robin Williams 


SCORE: Small Business 

Success Seminar 


Oregon Truffle Festival 

For more on Eugene travel, 




>> 


VALLEY RIVER INN 

Valley River Inn has been redecorated, 

redened and rejuvenated. 

A sentimental favorite 

since 193, this iconic 

destination has just completed 

an incredible transformation. 

All guest rooms, meeting and 

banquet spaces, Sweetwater’s 

Restaurant, the RiverWalk Bakery, 

and the lobby have been 

remodeled with contemporary 

charm. Inspired by the close 

connection with nature and a 

serene setting along the Willamette 

River, the designers have 

integrated organic textures, 

natural colors and patterns, a 

variety of wood tones, decorative 

glass panels, enhanced 

lighting, and distinctive dcor 

that reflect the spirit of Eugene. 

Located along the Willamette River in Eugene 

Adjacent to the Valley River Center, featuring more than 10 

stores and a cinema with IA 

Five minutes from downtown Eugene, the University of Oregon 

and the Hult Center 

Two hours south of Portland, with easy accessibility to Interstate 5 

800.543.8266 1000 Valley River Way, Eugene valleyriverinn.com 

THE JORDAN SCHNITZER MUSEUM OF ART 

Established in 1933, the ordan Schnitzer useum of Art (SA) is a premier visual arts center 

in the Pacic Northwest. Located in the heart of University of Oregon campus, the SA is a 

family-friendly destination that provides innovative and interpretive exhibits, programs and 

classes. With four major exhibitions changing yearly and galleries devoted to art from China, 

apan, Korea, America and elsewhere, there is always something new to see. While at the 

museum, nd the perfect treasure to take home from Precious Cargo The useum Store, and 

please your palate with seasonal and regional cuisine from arch useum Caf. 

West of Center: Art and the Counterculture Experiment in America, 

1965-1977 is organized by the Museum of Contemporary Art 

Denver. The exhibition is supported, in part, with funds provided 

by the Western States Arts Federation (WESTAF) and the National 

Endowment for the Arts. It is made possible at the JSMA by the 

Coeta and Donald Barker Special Exhibitions Endowment Fund and 

JSMA members. This project is supported in part by a grant from 

the Oregon Arts Commission and the National Endowment for the 

Arts, a federal agency. 

West of Center: Art and the 

Counterculture Experiment in 

America, 1965-1977 

February 09, 2013 to April 28, 2013 

In the heady and hallucinogenic days of the 

190s and ’0s, a diverse range of artists and 

creative individuals based in the American 

West from the Pacific coast to the Rocky 

ountains and the Southwest broke the 

barriers between art and lifestyle and embraced 

the new, hybrid sensibilities of the 

countercultural movement. West of Center 

explores their unique integration of art 

practices, political action, and collaborative 

life activities. Featuring videos, photographs, 

drawings, ephemera and other artifacts, 

the exhibition relates an exciting story of 

collaboration, indeterminate processes, an 

emphasis on experience - all exploring the 

various ways in which art was integral to 

countercultural efforts to instigate personal 

growth and social transformation, everywhere 

visible in contemporary art practice. 

541.346.3027 1430 Johnson Ln., Eugene jsma.uoregon.edu

OAKSHIRE BREWERY 

Strength. Independence. Community. 

These are the core values behind 

the Oakshire name and its motivation 

for brewing ne craft beer in Eugene. 

Find Oakshire on tap and on shelves 

throughout the Northwest, or visit the 

tasting room to sample its year-round 

beers, seasonals, single batches, and 

barrel-aged reserve beers. Take in some 

live music, take a tour of the brewery 

and take home bottles, growlers, and 

merchandise. Oakshire Brewing craftsmanship 

dened. 

541.688.4555 1055 Madera Street, Eugene oakbrew.com 

MARCHÉ RESTAURANT 

& PROVISIONS 

arch is about celebrating 

life and the bountiful Pacic 

Northwest with locally grown 

and gathered foodprepared 

with care, and served in a lively 

and elegant atmosphere. The 

restaurant takes its name from 

the French word for marketa 

word that describes not only 

archs location in the bustling 5th Street arket, but also its philosophy of cooking. 

The menu is based on foods from the farmers marketfresh, seasonal and regional. 

541.324.3612 296 E 5th Ave., Eugene marcherestaurant.com 

Located in the heart of the southern Willamette Valley, Silvan Ridge Winery and 

Sweet Cheeks Winery offer gorgeous vineyard views, award-winning wines, and 

complimentary tasting year-round. 

sweetcheekswinery.com Briggs Hill Rd., Eugene 

silvanridge.com 

SKEIE'S JEWELERS 

In 011, Skeie’s ewelers was named 

one of the top fty designer retailers 

in the nation by CK. Come visit 

a store that has been family owned 

and run since 19, with an emphasis 

on quality paired with the 

latest fashion trends. Skeie’s carries 

designers such as Rolex, Tag Heuer, 

ikimoto, Roberto Coin, Fredrick 

Sage, Pandora, A. affe, Precision Set, Furrer acot and more. You will also nd 

ve AGS-certied gemologists, three bench jewelers and a Rolex-trained master 

watchmaker on hand for in-house custom jewelry, repairs and appraisals. 

541.345.0354 10 Oakway Center, Eugene skeies.com 

UNIVERSITY OF OREGON 

MUSEUM OF NATURAL 

AND CULTURAL HISTORY 

Take a walk through 15,000 years of Oregon’s cultural history 

and millions more of geologic time at the useum of 

Natural and Cultural History. Features include an interactive 

discovery room where children can learn to think like a 

scientist, a rotating exhibit hall and an outdoor native plant 

courtyard with examples of Willamette Valley and coastal 

flora. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. 

to 5 p.m. General admission is $3, or $8 for families. Free 

admission each Wednesday. Guided tours offered each Friday 

at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m., free with admission. 

541.346.3024 1680 E. 15th Ave., Eugene natural-history.uoregon.edu 

INN AT THE 5TH 

Inn at the 5th is proud to host opening 

night of 013’s Oregon Truffle Festival. 

oin them as they represent the pinnacle 

of Pacic Northwest luxury, offering elegant 

accommodations and the ultimate 

in personal service in the bustling heart 

of Eugene, Oregon. The Inns luxurious 

boutique hotel reflects all that makes 

Eugene unique, from its artistic, sophisticated design to the high-end dining, spa 

and shopping available onsite at the 5th Street Public arket. Only blocks from 

Truffle Festival Headquarters, Inn at the 5th offers complimentary car service to 

all events throughout the weekend as well as to and from the Eugene Airport. 

EUPHORIA CHOCOLATE 

COMPANY 

Delighting the taste buds of Northwesterners 

for thirty years with an 

array of fresh, handmade chocolate 

truffles, Euphoria is now featuring Oregon 

wine truffles, gourmet chocolate 

sauces, spice trade truffles and more. 

With four Eugene company stores and 

chocolates sold in hundreds of gourmet 

food stores, gift shops, at specialty 

retailers, and online, Euphoria has 

made it easy to treat someone special 

to the nest quality chocolates. 

541.344.4914 4 Eugene Locations euphoriachocolate.com 

EMERALD CITY, 

NEWS & GIFTS 

Emerald City News 

Gifts is an Oregon 

company serving 

the needs of Eugene 

Airport travelers 

since 003. Two well-appointed stores in the Eugene Airport Terminal feature 

a broad assortment of products sure to please travelers. These include magazines, 

books, greeting cards, souvenirs, gifts and a nice variety of snack foods 

and beverages. Emerald City proudly offers local products from companies like 

Euphoria Chocolate Co., ody Coyote, Sweet Cheeks Winery and Kopper Kettle. 

Don’t miss these wonderful stores on your next trip. 

541.743.4099 205 E. 6th Ave., Eugene innat5th.com 541.689.6641 Eugene Airport Terminal (EUG) 

1859 OREGONS MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 

To list your business in 1859's Explore Guide, please contact Ross Johnson 541.550.7081 ross1859magazine.com

EXPLORE OREGON COAST 

>> 

Pristine beauty, tide pools and seafood—the 

Oregon Coast is a world unto itself. 

Thanks to the 1913 political positioning 

of Oregon governor, Oswald West, beaches 

are publicly owned. Misty and mysterious 

cliffs, dunes, and hills make each visitor feel 

as if they are the first. Miles of untouched 

land can be found between each quaint 

town. Explore Oregon's coastal Highway 

101 by car. Discover a treasure trove of 

fishing towns embedded with rivers, state 

parks and scenic waysides. Take in Newport's 

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Lincoln 

City's Kite Festival, Bandon's world-class 

golf courses, Seaside's shoreline promenade 

and Cannon Beach's haven of artists, 

cooks, collectors, connoisseurs and 

creative lodging. Smaller beach hamlets 

such as Manzanita, Neskowin, Oceanside, 

Netarts and Yachats, play host to prime 

beach-combing for shells and glass floats. 

DO & SEE 


Bullards Run 

Bandon 


Mardi Gras Jambalaya 

Cook-Off 

Lincoln City 


Winter Folk Festival 

Florence 

For more on Oregon Coast travel, 




>> 

INN AT SPANISH HEAD 

Come experience exceptional 

oceanfront lodging and dining 

at Oregon’s only resort 

hotel built right on the beach, 

allowing the ultimate beach 

access. All guest and meeting 

rooms are oceanfront with 

floor-to-ceiling windows that 

offer breath-taking views. Enjoy the Inn’s gracious oceanfront restaurant and bar, 

open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and a seasonal Sunday Champagne Brunch. 

Give the Oregon Coast to family and friends this holiday season with a gift certicate 

to the Inn At Spanish Head. Available online, or call to order and reserve. 

800.452.8127 4009 SW Hwy 101, Lincoln City spanishhead.com 

Inspired dining on Siletz Bay • Small-plate menu in the lounge 

An Oregon landmark since 1978 

Forbes 3-star rated AAA 3-diamond rated 

Wine Spectator Best Of Award of Excellence 

Wednesday through Sunday Lounge opens at 5 p.m. 

Dinner service begins at 530 p.m. 

Reservations recommended 

541.996.3222 5911 SW Hwy 101, Lincoln City thebayhouse.org 


HALLMARK RESORT in 

CANNON BEACH 

The Hallmark Resort in Cannon 

Beach is oceanfront with spectacular 

views from your balcony and 

pristine beach just steps away. The 

closest to Haystack Rock, it offers 

kitchenettes, cozy replaces, inroom 

spas, wi-, coffee, and legendary 

customer service. Relax in a 

two-person whirlpool tub or bring 

the family and enjoy the pool, sauna and Fitness Center. Experience Hallmarks fullservice 

on-site spa, featuring a complete menu to pamper yourself. Pets are welcome 

888.448.4449 1400 South Hemlock, Cannon Beach hallmarkinn.com 

BRIDGEWATER BISTRO 

Ann and Tony Kischners Bridgewater Bistro 

is a full-service restaurant located in Astoria 

on the banks of the Columbia River, just 

below the majestic Astoria-egler bridge to 

Washington. The restaurant is open seven 

days a week, serving lunch, dinner and Sunday 

brunch. The bistro offers a diverse and affordable 

menu of small plates, soups, salads 

and main courses, focusing on local regional 

products. Breads and desserts are baked in 

house. Order from the full bar and awardwinning 

wine list. 

877.357.6777 20 Basin Street, Astoria bridgewaterbistro.com

photo by oe Whittle 

EXPLORE EASTERN OREGON 

>> 

Still largely raw, wide open and undiscovered, 

the Eastern Oregon gem is 

worth mining. There are not too many 

places left in this world like this experience-rich 

region. Unmatched camping 

in the desert or forested mountains— 

the area is complete with breath-taking 

star-gazing. Backcountry powder and 

canyon fishing expose wonders both 

high and low. Ride horses in the Steens 

Mountain Wilderness. Horse-pack or llama 

trek into the Wallowas—often called 

the North American Swiss Alps. Float the 

wild and remote rivers. Besides its obvious 

splendor, Eastern Oregon is home to 

a mix of people as varied as the population 

is small. Sunstone miners, bronze 

sculptors, ranchers raising grass-fed beef, 

artists, writers, musicians and Pendleton 

Round-Up rodeo-ers coincide in this slice 

of Oregon's Wild West. 

For more on Eastern Oregon travel, 


DO & SEE 


Winterfest 

Joseph 


Eagle Cap Extreme 

Joseph 

Feb 28 - March 2 

Eastern Oregon 

Film Festival 

La Grande 



>> 

ANTHONY LAKES 

MOUNTAIN RESORT 

Celebrating fifty years this season, 

Anthony Lakes ountain Resort, 

situated high in the Elkhorn ountains 

in Eastern Oregon, is a novelty 

you have to experience to understand. 

It is known for its incredible 

powder, great backcountry and 

a friendly, laid-back atmosphere. 

Open from late November until early 

April, this nonprofit resort is one 

of Oregons best-kept secrets. The 

Rock Garden Chair Lift serves twenty-one 

runs that drop more than 

900 vertical feet with 0 percent 

rated black diamond and over thirty 

kilometers of groomed cross country 

trails. Anthony Lakes is where 

great adventures begin. 

SUMMER LAKE HOT SPRINGS 

Summer Lake Hot Springs is located 

in the Oregon Outback, two 

hours southeast of Bend on Hwy 

31. Natural hot mineral springs flow 

into outdoor rock pools and into the 

historic bath-house at 113 degrees. 

High desert activities include wildlife 

viewing, hiking, cross-country 

skiing and snow shoeing and big 

skies for star gazing. Accommodations include cozy geothermal heated cabins, 

a guest house, RV sites and camping. Come heal your body and soul at Summer 

Lake. 

541.943.3931 Milepost 92, Hwy 31, Paisley summerlakehotsprings.com 

VISIT EASTERN OREGON 

Do you ever go skiing, riding or snowmobiling 

where it feels as though you are in a parade? They 

don’t. Discover the secrets of Eastern Oregon this 

wintersee elk up close, ski, ride, or glide through 

powdery snow. Sample their great hand-crafted 

beers and exceptional spirits. Share a tale or two 

with friends. 

Eastern Oregon Dont tell everyone Find winter fun 

in Eastern Oregon on the website. 

541.856.3277 47500 Anthony Lakes Hwy., North Powder anthonylakes.com 

Visit the outdoor fun page at 

visiteasternoregon.com 


1859 OREGONS MAGAZINE AN FEB 2013 131

EXPLORE MT. HOOD / GORGE 

>> 

A waterman’s paradise, lovers of windsurfing, 

sailing, stand-up paddling and all things water 

find happiness in the Columbia River Gorge. In 

the many riverfront towns, discover the gems in 

locally owned shops, microbreweries and restaurants. 

Jutting cliffs, enormous waterfalls and 

miles of orchards line the Columbia River, along 

the Washington-Oregon border. Historic tours 

of Native American life and Lewis & Clark’s adventures 

can keep anyone exploring for hours. 

On your way up to Mt. Hood, stop in at an orchard 

along the “fruit loops,” or taste wine at 

one of the two dozen local wineries. The grand 

altitude of Oregon, Mt. Hood territory is literally 

at the top of the great outdoors. Thick forest is 

interrupted only by rivers. Casual and fine dining 

awaits all palettes at the base of Oregn's 

premier year-round destination for alpine skiing. 

Sports, comfort and awe-inspiring geology 

are all at home in this region, just an hour from 

the Portland metropolis. 

DO & SEE 


Damian Erskine at 

Double Mountain 

Brewery 

Hood River 


White River 

Snowshoe 4k & 8k 

Parkdale 


Medieval Banquet 

Hood River 

For More On Columbia Gorge Travel, 

Go To 1859magazine.com/travel 



>> 

HOOD RIVER HOTEL 

Tap the heart of the Gorge. 

Lovingly restored, the 100- 

year-old hotel delivers New 

World amenities with Old 

World charm. Inside and out, 

the pulse of Hood River begins 

here. Walk to ve winetasting 

rooms. Shop artisan 

jewelers, high fashion and 

ne art. Savor craft beer and 

dining delights. Choose your toy for kiting, sailing, shing, biking or floating. Ride the rails. 

Stroll to a river. Tour an orchard, waterfall or volcanic peakstarting here. 

800.386.1859 102 Oak Ave., Hood River hoodriverhotel.com 


CELILO RESTAURANT 

Located in the heart of downtown Hood River, 

Celilo offers Pacific Northwest cuisine with fresh, 

locally grown products. The dining room is a 

perfect blend of sophistication and comfort, featuring 

work by local artists and craftsmen. The 

menu is complemented with an extensive wine 

list and full bar. oin Celilo for daily happy hour 

specials, and check the website for special wine 

dinners and cooking class events. Open for lunch 

(1130 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and dinner (from 5 p.m.) 

seven days a week, year-round. 

541.386.5710 16 Oak Street, Hood River celilorestaurant.com 

DOUBLE MOUNTAIN 

BREWERY & TAPROOM 

Hood River’s favorite destination for 

top-quality craft beer, beautiful brickoven 

pizzas and a relaxed, welcoming 

local vibe. Sidewalk seating is 

available in the warmer months. 

Free live music every weekend. The 

Taproom is located at 8 Fourth Street 

in downtown Hood River, right behind 

the post ofce. Open at 1130 a.m., 

seven days a week. 

541.387.0042 8 Fourth Street, Hood River doublemountainbrewery.com 

KAZE 

Traditional Japanese Cuisine 

Dine with Kaze and experience the 

whirlwind of Kaze flavors. Kaze 

serves traditional apanese cuisine 

and sushi that will make your 

mouth water. Authentic dishes include 

tempura, udon noodles, rice 

bowls, curry, bento boxes and set 

meals, as well as exotic desserts. Kaze also serves wine, sake and apanese 

beers such as Kirin, Sapporo, Asahi and orimoto ales. Enjoy views from 

the indoor-outdoor deck or sit at the sushi bar. Kids menu available. Open 

Tuesday to Sunday at 5 p.m. 

541.387.0434 212 4th Street, Hood River

BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS 

RESORT & SPA 

Relax and refresh at the Northwest’s 

premier mineral spring resort. Enjoy 

a soak in the indoor mineral lap 

pool and jetted soaking tubs. Pamper 

yourself in the European-style 

bath house with a signature bath 

and wrap, a rejuvenating facial or a 

blissful body treatment. The casual 

elegance of the great room will embrace 

you with its impressive floor-to-ceiling river rock replace. Settle in for the evening 

in one of the spacious guest rooms, many with private hot tubs on the balcony. 

888.903.4958 1252 East Cascade Drive, Bonneville, WA bonnevilleresort.com 

DOPPIO COFFEE + LOUNGE 

Relax on Doppio Coffees outdoor patio, right in the 

heart of downtown. Enjoy a hand-crafted espresso or 

latte made with locally roasted, fair trade and organic 

coffee. Serving breakfast and lunch all day, including panini, 

salads, smoothies, and fresh baked goods. Several 

vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options are available, 

complemented with local beers on tap, and local wines 

by the glass or bottle. Wi- is free, and the patio is dogfriendly. 

Doppio strives to source organic and local products. 

Open daily at a.m. 

541.386.3000 310 Oak Street, Hood River doppiohoodriver.com 

ALL SEASONS PROPERTY MANAGEMENT 

All seasons is your vacation rental connection for ajestic 

t. Hood which offers some of the most spectacular 

skiing and snowboarding in the Northwest. 

Your t Hood adventure is just an hour from Portland. 

Hot tubs, saunas, replaces make our vacation 

homes ideal. Everything from cozy vintage cabins to 

sleek, spacious ski lodges. Close to skiing and snowboarding 

at Timberline Lodge, t. Hood Skibowl, and 

t. Hood eadows. During your stay mention this ad 

and receive a complimentary sno-park permit. 

RENDEZVOUS 

The Rendezvous Grill is open for lunch and dinner, featuring small plates, a light 

menu and a full bar. The classy and comfortable atmosphere, great food and rotating 

NW wine selection makes the Rendezvous a top stop on the way to t. Hood.to 

t. Hood. 

What's new at the Vous? 

503.622.6837 67149 E Hwy 26, Welches rendezvousgrill.net 

COLUMBIA GORGE HOTEL 

Nestled in the heart of the 

majestic Columbia River 

Gorge only sixty minutes 

east of Portland, the historic 

Columbia Gorge Hotel 

refreshes the spirit with 

lush flowering gardens, 

pure mountain air and 

Old World editerranean 

charm. Whether you are 

looking for a getaway, a 

premier meeting facility, 

an idyllic wedding location, 

a fabulous meal of Northwest 

food and wine, or just 

a trip to the relaxing spa, 

you will create a memory at 

the Columbia Gorge Hotel 

and Spa in Hood River. 

503.622.1142 23804 E Greenwood Ave., Welches mthoodrent.com 

The Resort at The Mountain 

The Resort at The ountain is worlds 

away. Yet only minutes from abundant 

winter sports. At t. Hood. Naturally. 

Where air and minds are clear. 

Where face-time replaces facebook. 

Here you can relax totally at The Spa. 

Swim in the heated, enclosed pool. 

Tee off on The Courses. Dine delightfully 

at Altitude. Hike. Bike. Photograph 

nature. Or simply breathe in your surroundings. Now you can do it all, with The 

All-Inclusive Resort Packagea guest room, two dinner entres and breakfast for two, 

plus two fty-minute spa treatments or two rounds of golf. Use Promo Code ALLIN. 

877.439.6774 Just off Hwy 26 in Welches TheResort.com 

800.345.1921 4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River columbiagorgehotel.com 

VALIAN'S SKI SHOP 

The good stuff since 198. Valians Ski 

Shop is located in the Government 

Camp Financial District. Valians offers 

specialty tuning and repairs, as 

well as race equipment, armor, protection, 

gloves, and waxes. Apparel 

includes ski and snowboard clothing, 

sweaters, resort wear and accessories 

with a large assortment of 

goggles, hats and anything else you 

need for fun in the snow. Equipment 

sales, demos and rentals are available for alpine, snowboard, cross-country and snowshoes. 

Open every day, including major holidays. Rossignol, Full Tilt, HESTRA, POC. 

503.272.3525 HWY 26 Business Loop, Government Camp valiansskishop.com 



EXPLORE CENTRAL OREGON 

>> 

PORTLAND 

Once dwellers of high desert logging 

country, Central Oregonians now spend 

most of their time logging miles on their 

bikes, skis and hiking boots. Quality of life 

is the way of life in this blue-sky country. 

Absent any one major industry—aside 

from sports medicine—many residents 

telecommute to jobs in larger cities or 

partake in creative local businesses. After 

more than doubling its population in 

the early 2000s, Bend’s emerging culture 

is full of active recreaters and stimulating 

ventures. At the center is a thriving music 

scene, fine dining, craft beer and breweries—along 

with an increasing cosmopolitan 

flavor. The Cascade High Lakes, 

Deschutes River and old lava flows, 

among other outdoor wonders, are minutes 

away. Fly-fish, stand-up paddle or 

hit the groomed trails and backcountry 

powder in Central Oregon. 

DO & SEE 


Cirque Ziva 

Bend 

Feb 9 

Hoodoo Winter 

Festival 

Sisters 


Bend Winter Fest 

Bend 

For more on Central Oregon, 


>> 



LA ROSA 

Voted Best exican Restaurant seven years in a row with authentic exican flavors and recipes, 

La Rosa’s exican restaurant is a Bend favorite, located on the west side in Northwest Crossing’s 

Town Center. La Rosa takes pride in high-quality ingredients, authentic exican food and great 

service. Open daily for dining in or taking out. And don’t forget La Rosa for Bend’s best late-night 

dining choice. La Rosa offers private parties, special events, conferences and catering. 

Brookswood Meadow Plaza location is now open! 

541.647.1624 2763 NW Crossing Dr., Bend larosabend.com 

HIGH DESERT MUSEUM 

This winter, step into the world of Butterflies 

Hummingbirds. A warm and 

lush indoor garden paradise is filled 

with live, free-flying butterflies and 

hummingbirds that flutter, hover and 

zip around you. Discover the Spirit of 

the West and chat with pioneers. eet 

live owls, hawks, eagles, porcupines, 

an otter, a bobcat and more animals 

close up. Explore the childrens handson 

play spaces, outdoor educational 

trails, special events and programs for lifelong learning and fun. Check 

out the cafe and museum store. Open daily except holidays. 

541.382.4754 59800 Hwy 97, Bend highdesertmuseum.org 


THE WELL TRAVELED FORK 

Follow the Fork to Central Oregon’s best local 

food and drink Experience the bounty of the region 

with farm-to-fork culinary eld trips, cooking 

classes or catered meals by the Well Traveled 

Fork. Knowledgeable culinary tour guides 

show you where your food comes from on the 

Farm Ranch Tour, or take you to the best local 

food hotspots in town on the Culinary Secrets or 

Follow the Fork walking tour. Chef Bette Fraser, 

owner of the Well Traveled Fork, guarantees an 

educational and delicious experience. 

541.312.0097 Bend welltraveledfork.com

HOUSE ON METOLIUS 

House on etolius, located in the heart of Central Oregon, has served as a private estate and retreat 

for more than a hundred years. This beautiful two-hundred acre estate sits astride the etolius 

River, with its magnicent view of t. efferson and Three Finger ack. At House on etolius, they 

focus their attention on a small number of guests, family gatherings or company planning sessions. 

Experience this private stretch of river with your family or share the experience with a group as a 

corporate retreat. 

541.595.6620 10300 FSR 980, Camp Sherman metolius.com 

CASCADE LAKES BREWING 

COMPANY LODGE 

MOUNT BACHELOR 

VILLAGE RESORT 

Situated above the hanging red rock 

cliffs of the spectacular Deschutes River 

and located minutes from downtown 

Bend and the Old ill District, on the 

road to t. Bachelor, you will nd one 

of Bend’s premier resorts offering an 

array of overnight accommodations (hotel rooms, condominiums and vacation 

homes), a full-service conference center and endless recreational opportunities. 

If you are looking for your next family or group getawaylook no further 

Stay & Ski Free Packages start at $562.29 for 3 nights lodging and 3 

days of skiing for 2 adults (some restrictions apply, call for details). 

877.514.2391 19717 Mt. Bachelor Drive, Bend mtbachelorvillage.com 

Located in the heart of Bend’s westside recreation 

mecca, Cascade Lakes Brewing Company Lodge is 

the top spot for aprs ski, mountain bike and golf 

in Bend. The Lodge has some of the best handcrafted 

beers in a town known for its microbrew 

scene, with popular choices like Blonde Bombshell 

and Cyclops IPA, to name a couple. Both the bar and 

the restaurant have multiple flat-screen televisions 

with current sports and events rolling seven days a 

week from 1130 a.m. until 1130 p.m. Enjoy dinner, craft brews, happy hour, billiards and darts. 

Located on the way down from t. Bachelor at the Colorado and Century Drive roundabout. 

541.388.4998 1441 SW Chandler, Bend cascadelakes.com 

SCANLON'S 

Located in the Athletic 

Club of Bend, Scanlons 

serves award-winning 

and healthy cuisine. 

Open to the public, 

members and guests enjoy 

fine dining in a warm 

and friendly atmosphere. 

Scanlons is the perfect 

place for all occasions, 

from a romantic evening 

to family dining. Dinner reservations are always recommended. If you have 

children, child care is free with a reservation. 

541.382.8769 61615 Mt. Bachelor Dr., Bend athleticclubofbend.com 

IEINE ODGE SISERS 

Take advantage of all that 

Central Oregon has to offer 

and enjoy biking, hiking, 

fishing and golf. This 

unique property has oneof-a-kind 

cabins, endless 

trails, an outdoor heated 

swimming pool and outdoor 

game area. Wind down by treating yourself to a couples massage at 

Shibui Spa and relaxing in any one of FivePines cozy rooms with a beautiful 

waterfall soaking tub and fireplace. 

541.549.5900 1021 Desperado Trail, Sisters fivepinelodge.com 

900 WALL 

Located in the heart of downtown 

Bend, 900 Wall is a relaxed, American 

restaurant serving serious country 

French- and Italian-influenced 

fare. The wine list, featuring more 

than fty wines by the glass, is anchored 

with the great wines of the 

Pacic Northwest and spiced with 

enough international variety to satisfy any wine drinkers palette. Artisan cocktails, 

informed, personable staff, and a unique atmosphere make 900 Wall a favorite 

among locals and visitors alike. A great gathering place for every special occasion. 

541.323.6295 900 Wall Street, Bend 900wall.com 

THE VICTORIAN CAFE 

The Vic’s diverse menu successfully fuses classic 

breakfast fare with creative food combinations and 

unique flavors, often twisting popular dinner entrees 

into unforgettable omelets and egg benedicts. 

The Vic experience is made complete by the full bar, 

which serves up award-winning Bloody arys and 

the legendary “anosa,” crafted with Victorian 

Caf private label champagne. The entire package 

has won over diners, judging by the fact that The 

Vic has been voted “Best Breakfast” a record thirteen 

times. The Vic has truly become an institution for 

locals and visitors alike. 

541.382.6411 1404 NW Galveston, Bend victoriancafebend.com 



EXPLORE SOUTHERN OREGON 

PORTLAND 

>> 

Theater and adventure constitute the 

backbone of Southern Oregon. This vast 

region encompasses a top-notch Elizabethan 

outdoor stage at the Oregon Shakespeare 

Festival in Ashland, as well as 

the up-and-coming warm-varietal wine 

growing regions of the Umpqua, Rogue, 

Illinois and Applegate valleys. To the east 

is Crater Lake, Oregon's only National 

Park, established by President Theodore 

Roosevelt in 1902. Nestled into the high 

country, this and many other lakes and 

trails await exploration. Take a history lesson 

in Jacksonville, and learn about the 

region’s gold rush past. Don't forget to 

raft the Wild and Scenic Rogue, attend 

Paisley's famed Mosquito Festival, tour 

Oregon Caves National Monument, wine 

taste throughout the area and explore 

Ashland's chocolate culture. 

DO & SEE 


Winter Wine Celebration 

Gold Hill 


Snowmobile 

Jamboree 

Lakeview 


Winter Wings Festival 

Klamath Falls 

For more on Southern Oregon travel, 




>> 

DEL RIO VINEYARDS 

Located along the Rogue River, Del Rio 

Vineyards, once home to the Rock Point 

Hotel, provides a warm and welcoming 

atmosphere while sipping premium estate 

wines. The Del Rio Vineyards tasting 

room includes a great outdoor location for 

a family picnic with a wonderful view of its 

00-acre vineyard. Open seven days a week 

from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. The vineyard is right 

off I-5 exit 3. Come see the new tasting 

room and groundsperfect for a picnic. 

STANDING STONE BREWING COMPANY 

Standing Stone is sharing its passion for 

handcrafted beer with you. Standing Stone 

Brewing Company features a range of ales 

and lagers, made on site in small batches using 

more than 80 percent organic malts. Its 

diverse menu is designed to please all palates, 

with a focus on high-quality, local and 

organic ingredients. Enjoy outdoor seating in 

the summer and live music on the weekends. 

Located in downtown Ashland, the brewery is 

open daily from 1130 a.m. to midnight. 

541.855.2062 52 N. River Road, Gold Hill delriovineyards.com 


CALLAHAN’S 

MOUNTAIN LODGE 

Established in 19, Landmark Callahan’s 

ountain Lodge is a fullservice 

lodging and dining getaway 

nestled in the Siskiyou ountains 

in a tree-lined canyon ten minutes 

south of Ashland. Nineteen amazing 

rooms, with acuzzi tubs and woodburning 

replaces, include a chefprepared 

breakfast. No minimum stay, skier- and hiker-friendly, midweek specials, 

banquet facilities, bus tours welcome. Open year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner 

with live music nightly . . . the perfect place to spend precious time. 

800.286.0507 On I-5 at the Mount Ashland Exit 6 callahanslodge.com 

541.482.2448 101 Oak Street, Ashland standingstonebrewing.com 

ABACELA VINEYARDS AND 

WINERY 

Located in the heart of the beautiful 

Umpqua Valley, Abacela represents 

more than quality wine. 

Pioneering traditional old world 

varieties, such as tempranillo and 

Albarino, put Abacela on the map 

in the New World and beyond with 

its ideal terroir. In addition to the 

Spanish grapes, estate-grown varietals 

include dolcetto, malbec, viogner and syrahto name a few. Each varietal has 

depth and intriguing nuances. Visit the new Vine and Wine Center and enjoy the 

views, the wine and the experience. Cheers 

541.679.6642 12500 Lookingglass Rd, Roseburg abacela.com

What’s your OQ? 

Before there was a Bart Conner, this strapping young 

man was a gymnast for O.S.N.S. What team was this? 

Answer for a chance to win 

Answer this question at 1859magazine.com/whats-your-oq 

for a chance to win a custom 1859 belt buckle from 

Stump Industries. 

Erva Crouley of Beaverton won 

the previous OQ. She correctly 

answered Henry Weinhard’s 

brewery.

map of oregon 

1859 Mapped 

The points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859. 

Bird Hunting PAGE 116 

HIGHLAND HILLS RANCH, Condon 

ROE OUTFITTERS, Klamath Falls 

DEEP CANYON OUTFITTERS, Sisters 

3 

5 

1 

2 

4 

6 

CASCADE RANGE 

72 Hours [pg. 38] 

Discover anew the longtime home of 

the late Oregon Poet Laureate, William 

Stafford. The Western-themed town 

of Sisters is known for its proximity 

to Hoodoo, a huge quilt show, and of 

course, superb apple fritters. 

Road Reconsidered [pg. 36] 

The southern Oregon Coast plays host 

to cranberry farms and the westernmost 

point in Oregon. Explore the many 

treasures of Highway 101, from Bandon 

to Brookings. 

Urban Rot [pg. 104] 

Leather Storrs is his (real) name, and 

fresh-picked foods are his game. Visit 

this Northeast Portland restaurant for 

sweeping views of downtown and 

menu items picked daily from the 

rooftop garden. 

Dogs for the Deaf [pg. 62] 

Tour the facility where rescued dogs 

train for their new jobs as “seeing ear” 

guides. For those looking to adopt a 

four-legged family member, there may 

be a dog available that is more suited 

to a life of leisure than a career. 

Urban Wineries [pg. 22] 

With the travel time needed to get to 

wine country, why not try something 

different? A consortium of nine wineries 

barrel wine within Portland’s city 

limits and offer tastings, tours, and a 

variety of wines for less than $30 per 

bottle. 

Rogue River [pg. 70] 

A four-day float down the Rogue River 

with Rogue Wilderness Adventures, 

black bears, big rapids and a Perseid 

meteor shower. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Independent 

Movie Theaters page 24 

Hollywood Theatre, Portland 

Laurelhust Theater, Portland 

OK Theater, Enterprise 

Darkside Cinema, Corvallis 

Salem Cinema, Salem 

Tin Pan Theater, Bend 

138 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE JAN|FEB 2013

Jan Feb 2013

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