Eatdrink #69 January/February 2018

Issue #69 | January/February 2018
eatdrink
The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
FREE
London’s Invincible Wolfes
Los Lobos
Modern Mexican
FEATURING
Traditional Chinese Food
Where to Eat in London
The Latest Hot Spots
• Craft Farmacy • Hunter & Co.
• Plant Matter Bistro • Reverie
Beer-Preneurs
The Business of Opening a Brewery
Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007
www.eatdrink.ca

2 | January/February 2018
THE CHRISTMAS TRAIL
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you to
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Purchase your pass
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UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE IDLEWYLD
January 12th - February 4th, 2018
Londonlicious
Don’t miss out on our Londonlicious menu this year! Running from
January 12th to February 4th, 2018. Come and see what the Idlewyld
Restaurant has to offer.
$85
Inclusive
February 14th, 2018
Valentines Day Dinner and Jazz Show
Join us this Valentines Day for a Romantic Dinner and Jazz Show,
featuring Vocalist Jennifer (Red) Thorpe, Pianist Charlie Rallo,
and Bassist Dryl Stacey.
$70
+Tax & Grat
Murder For Hire - March 2nd, 2018
Murder At The Dead Horse Saloon
Murder At The Dead Horse Saloon is a story which takes place in Dick
Hershel’s legendary saloon (The Dead Horse Saloon). Legendary as it may
be, it’s still experiencing the difficulties of the day’s harsh economy, or is the
economy the culprit at all? Today is the 100th anniversary of the saloon and
the perfect opportunity to get the business back in the black…. at any cost.
$45
+Tax
Our Famous Saturday Afternoon Tea
January 20th | February 17th | March 17th, 2018
Enjoy a traditional high tea, featuring an assortment of loose leaf teas,
homemade scones, Devon cream and preserves, cucumber sandwiches,
savory mini quiches, and mouth watering treats and sweets!
36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 ~ ph 519.432.5554
www.idlewyldinn.com

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The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
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@eatdrinkmag
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Think Global. Read Local.
Publisher
Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Copy Editor Kym Wolfe
Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca
Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca
Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca
Finances
Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca
Graphics
Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy
Writers
Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,
Aaron Brown, Darin Cook,
Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,
Nancy Loucks-McSloy, Tracy Turlin
Photographers Bruce Fyfe, Nick Lavery, Steve Grimes
Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349
Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Website
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Printing
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We want your
BUZZ!
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readers across Southwestern Ontario in print,
and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca
and/or connect directly with our
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OUR COVER
Los Lobos, at the corner of
Albert and Talbot Streets in
London, offers its take on
“Modern Mexican” with the
distictive Wolfe touch. From
left to right are Greg, Oliva,
Jenn and Justin Wolfe.
Photo by Mariam Waliji
© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink
or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission
of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000
issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed
in the information, content and/or advertisements published in
Eatdrink or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not
necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes
submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

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LONDON’S BEST NEW
RESTAURANT!
Come in and enjoy
our delicious,
seasonally created menu
JOIN US
For Our Famous Five-Course
Valentine Day
Dinner Special for Two
Wednesday February 14
Call for reservations
519-430-6414
/Blakes2ndFloor
¦

Contents
Issue #69 | January/February 2018
Publisher’s Notes
title
By CHRIS MCDONELL
8
Restaurants
Los Lobos
Modern Mexican from
the Invincible Wolfes
By BRYAN LAVERY
10
14
54
Spirits
Winter Warmers
Whisky, Haggis,and some Poetry
By JANE ANTONIAK
54
Various Musical Notes
Warm-Up Acts
Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene
By GERRY BLACKWELL
58
London’s Latest
Resto Hot Spots
By BRYAN LAVERY
16
Traditional Chinese Food
Where to Find the Best in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
24
Road Trips
Beer and an Apron
Niagara-on-the-Lake
By JANE ANTONIAK
20
The BUZZ
Culinary Community Notes
38
Beer
Beer-Preneurs
The Business of Opening a Brewery
By AARON BROWN
49
49
24
56
54
Theatre
Spotlight on Alison Gordon
At Home on the Stage
By JANE ANTONIAK
61
Books
Apron Strings
by Jan Wong
Review by DARIN COOK
64
Recipes
Toronto Eats
by Amy Rosen
Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
66
The Lighter Side
The Scottish Meat Pie that Wasn’t
By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY
70
Wine
D’Ont Poke the Bear
Two Doyens of Canadian Wine Team Up
By GARY KILLOPS
52
52
58

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

8 | January/February 2018
Publisher’s Notes
It’s About Time
Celebrating Our Stories
By CHRIS McDONELL
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
The magazine industry is generally
deadline driven, with new stories
constantly pushing us forward,
customer’s needs to be attended
to responsibly, and barely enough time in
the day to get everything done to a point of
real satisfaction. But the New Year offers a
wonderful pivot
point for looking
back at the year
that was, as well
as savouring the
fresh sheet of
paper before us
now.
The holiday
period was full
of fun times
with many of
the people most
important to
me, and I am grateful for that. Some health
issues in the family gave firm notice that time
passes quickly and needs to be cherished,
but welcome moments of frivolity and
lightheartedness also abounded. Too soon,
it was back to business, but why can’t the
same lessons apply here too? We can’t tell all
the stories we would like to, but let’s really
celebrate the ones that we can.
Los Lobos, the latest iteration of the
inspired creativity of brothers Greg and Justin
Wolfe and family, is a great story to kick off
2018. Some of my good friends were able to
enjoy Mexico in person recently while winter
was in full roar here in Southwestern Ontario,
but Los Lobos offers a local Mexican feast for
the eyes and the palate. Olé!
Just as the Wolfes are taking inspiration
from tradition and making something new
from that, so too are some of our Chinese
restaurants. Our Eatdrink Food Editor Bryan
Lavery highlights the best “traditional”
Chinese food available locally, versus the
compromise offerings like chicken balls that
defined Chinese cuisine in Canada for many
years. It’s heartening to see that there is a
strong appetite for authentic Chinese food,
and good to get guidance on where to find it.
The restaurant industry seems to face
new challenges every year, and 2018 is no
exception. The
increase in
minimum wage
is a welcome
change for many
workers, but
a substantial
issue for many
restaurateurs. I
think we all want
to see everyone
receive a living
wage, but we can
understand the
owners’ concerns over how to foot the bill for
that. Add that to a long laundry list of other
economic and creative challenges, yet we are
happy to celebrate the opening of four new
restaurants that we feel justified in calling
“hot spots.” Bryan Lavery again casts his
experienced eye on the scene and illuminates
how and why the situation is bright.
Similarly, our beer writer Aaron Brown
looks into the challenges and rewards of
opening a craft brewery. The explosive growth
of this industry is one of the most exciting
things that has happened in the culinary
world in recent years, and it seems to show
no signs of abating. Aaron spoke to a number
of new brewers and their enthusiasm is
infectioous for anyone who likes a pint.
Longtime Eatdrink contributor Jane
Antoniak brings her experience as both
journalist and bon vivant fully to bear in this
issue. Her spotlight on Alison Gordon is an
uplifting account of a singer and actress seen
recently on stage in London and in Stratford.

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Jane, a whisky conneisseur in her own right,
turns her attention to Scotch just in time for
Robbie Burns Day. And Jane completes her
hat trick with a road trip to Niagara-on-the-
Lake. Taking nothing away from Niagara’s
awesome wine culture, she and husband/
photographer Bruce Fyfe discovered that
there are plenty of other options to enjoy.
I’m always inspired by our music columnist
Gerry Blackwell’s round-up of live music
worth listening to, and his contribution to
this issue hits all the right notes. Our resident
book reviewer Darin Cook does the same on
his beat. Choosing Apron Strings by Jan Wong
— who made her name as a no-holds-barred
journalist digging out a story over lunch —
seems a perfect book for any foodie who likes
to read.
Cookbook reviewer Tracy Turlin takes
us through Amy Rosen’s Toronto Eats, and
finds lots to enjoy. Rosen has fettered out
signature recipes from many of Toronto’s
best restaurants.
Which reminds me that the deadline for
ordering your copy of The Forest City Cookbook
has been extended until February 15. The book
promises to be a winner, with a literal Who’s
Who of London chefs of note contributing
recipes with outstanding photography. The
producers are
adamant
that there
will be
only one
run of the
book, so order
yours today at forestcitycookbook.com.
Closing the magazine with “The Lighter
Side” always strikes me as a delicious bite of
dessert after a great meal, and our contributor
for this issue, Nancy Loucks-McSloy, doesn’t
disappoint. Without giving anything away,
Nancy delivers that bite with a twist.
I hope to see many of our readers at the
London Wine & Food Show at the Western
Fair Agriplex Thursday, January 18 to
Saturday, January 20. As usual, we’ll have an
awesome draw prize. More important, the
chance to get some feedback face-to-face is
always appreciated.
I wish you and yours all the best in 2018.
Peace,
NOW OPEN!
Tuesday–Saturday
Lunch & Dinner 11am to Close
Sunday
Brunch 11am & Dinner
449 Wharncliffe Road South
London
519.914.2699

10 | January/February 2018
Restaurants
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Los Lobos
Modern Mexican from the Invincible Wolfes
By BRYAN LAVERY
When Air Canada announced
Canada’s top 30 best new
restaurants on its longlist
for 2017, Wolfe of Wortley,
in London’s Wortley Village, made the
prestigious list. Los Lobos is the latest
creation from brothers Justin and Gregg
Wolfe, who are also the proprietors of The
Early Bird (and the former Rock au Taco and
Nite Owl). Los Lobos literally means “the
wolves” in Spanish.
Gregg and Justin both come from musical
backgrounds. They spent years traveling as
musicians and gaining valuable experience,
which they put to use in their business
ventures. Gregg spent a decade in Toronto
working in nightclubs, while Justin worked
as a chef at various restaurants in between
travelling. The brothers went into business
as Wolfe Pack Inc., and opened the Nite
Owl rock lounge in December 2009. In 2012
they opened The Early Bird on Talbot Street,
attached it to Nite Owl, and operated it all as
one business. This “fine diner” made its name
serving everything from Fat Elvis breakfast to
Turducken sandwich.
Trying to introduce to London something
it didn’t already have, the Wolfes brought
Mexican street food downtown with Rock au
Taco in the space the Nite Owl had occupied.
In anticipation of the opening of the Los Lobos
project, Rock au Taco was closed and The Early
Bird expanded into the adjoining space.
Los Lobos is at 580 Talbot Street, at the
corner of Albert Street. The building has
housed a number of restaurants over the
years, including The Whiskey House, the
Coates of Arms, Alex P Keaton and The Rose
and Crown. At one time it was home to Marg
or Rita’s, another Mexican hotspot with
plenty of credibility in its day.
On our first visit we were greeted warmly
by Olivia Wolfe, who is married to Gregg,
and who was charming and conversational
Left to right: Greg, Oliva, Jenn and Justin Wolfe
at the visually arresting Los Lobos bar
while expertly managing expectations to
facilitate the brief crush in the kitchen. Open
just under a week, Los Lobos was a busy and
happening spot.
Think modern Mexican flavours, with
innovative riffs and ideas and lots of cool
Mexican imagery and local references. The
dining room and bar is painted floor to ceiling
in stunning, colourful murals, and one-of-akind
art installations by Toronto artist Stu
Andrenelli. There are plenty of colourful motifs
and indigenous Mexican folk art featuring
skeletons, skulls and crosses. It is the kind of
iconography that people are used to seeing

January/February 2018 | 11
Inspired by Mexico’s “Day of the Dead” celebrations, the
restaurant features colourful motifs and folk art featuring
crosses (above), skeletons (below) and skulls.
associated with the celebration of Mexico’s Día
de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).
“Chef Kyle Rose is my right hand and had a
big hand in the menu with me at Los Lobos,”
says Justin Wolfe. “He’s our first addition to
Wolfe Pack Inc. outside of the family. Rose will
continue to help me oversee, balance kitchen
teams and menus as we continue to grow.”
The focus here is on platos pequeños (small
plates). They predominate on a menu of
gourmet Mexican-inspired fare with a modern
twist. The menu shares the love for tacos
but also covers a take on classics. We love
the chilaquiles (corn tortillas cut in quarters
and lightly fried) with mole, questo blando,
and cilantro. The crispy cornmeal battered
jalapeños rellenos stuffed with Monterey Jack
and served with red salsa or mole sauce are
sensational and never disappoint. The ceviche
is prepared with bay scallops which are small,
tender and slightly sweet. The marinade is
fresh and prepared with red onion, radish,
lime, cilantro and habanero giving it both
citrus and heat.
Los Lobos tacos offerings are generously
topped with various combinations of salsa,
aioli, pickled vegetables and hot sauces. Over
several visits, we sampled all ten tacos on
offer. We liked the beef cheek taco with pickled
red onion, queso fresco and horseradish. The
savoury pork belly taco is finished with lime
sour cream, radish and jalapeño. Green salsa,
pickled cabbage, corn and cilantro are perfect
accompaniments for the bay scallop taco.
The yuka taco (yuka is the plant from which
tapioca flour is derived and not to be confused
with the yucca plant) has a great texture and
perfectly matched with pico de gallo, cumin
crema and green onion. Forced to pick a stand
out, it would be the crunchy battered cod taco
with chipotle aioli, cabbage, pickled red onion
and cilantro. There is also beef tongue with
radish, red salsa and iceberg lettuce and other
iterations with cauliflower and black beans. All
tacos are priced at $5 each. Tacos can be made
into a burrito with rice and or beans, served
dry with crema, green or red sauce.
The La Carne section includes beef cheeks
that are chilli braised with fried yuka and pickled
cabbage, and chicken a la plancha (grilled
chicken) with Lobos mole and pico de gallo.
Karla Conde is Los Lobos’ dedicated,
in-house Mexican pastry
chef. Exquisitely prepared
churros are served with a
generous portion of thick
and creamy chocolate
ganache and chilli heat. We
love the flourless chocolate
cake with lots of chili heat.
The plating and
presentation of the food
is top notch. Everything
we sampled lived up to
the promise of the Wolfes’
prodigious talents.
The Wolfes take the
cocktail side of things very
seriously. The cocktail list

12 | January/February 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
features craft cocktails that are prepared
with fresh ingredients, homemade mixers
and premium liquors. The bar serves up ice
cold cervezas, smooth tequila, mezcal and
bourbon-focused cocktails, and blended
margaritas. The combination of cucumber,
cilantro and tequila makes for knock-out
margaritas. Other kindred flavours include
strawberry and cumin; watermelon and
apple; pineapple and jalapeno; and grapefruit
ginger vanilla. You can expect the bartenders
at Los Lobos to take blended drink classics
Los Lobos tacos are rooted in tradition and topped with various
combinations of salsa, aioli, pickled vegetables and hot sauces. Churros
(bottom left) are served with a thick and creamy chocolate ganache and
chilli heat. Crispy cornmeal-battered jalapeño relleno are stuffed with
Monterey Jack.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
and island-style beverages to a new level by
offering plenty of options. We sampled and
liked the strong and deeply flavoured Blood
in Blood Out made with tequila, port, lime,
ginger and bitters. We also tried the Los
Lobos, a signature cocktail, prepared with
tequila, Amaro Nonino, Cynar, maraschino
and lemon.
Los Lobos has a fun, funky and eclectic
vibe that is appealing. There is a no
reservation policy. There’s plenty of room
inside or, in season, outside on the spacious
patio. In the meantime, Justin tells us that
Nite Owl reopened in December above the
restaurant, as a speakeasy type of cocktail
bar focused on crafted cocktails. There is an
unmarked back alley entrance beside Los
Lobos. The Nite Owl operates Friday and
Saturday evenings and is available through
the week for private bookings.
The Wolfes have taken over the former
Harvest Bakery in Wortley Village, and are
slowly working out details for their next
project. They are leaning towards an Italian
vibe, but with a different look at Italian food
and culture. The former bakery will also act
as a small expansion for the Wolfe of Wortley
out the back, which will be used for more
production and storage space. They plan to
continue to elevate and innovate their food
offerings. Los Lobos’ business continues to
be strong, and the Wolfes are getting ready
to offer new menu items including adding a
small brunch menu on weekends.
Jenn, who is married to Justin, along with
Oliva Wolfe, are often on hand to keeps things
running smoothly and with style. Servers are
knowledgeable, articulate and welcoming,
as you’d expect from a restaurant that is
modern and driven by a family of cutting-edge
hospitality professionals.
Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market
Saturdays, 9am–1pm, Jan. 13 to March 31
Our outdoor Farmers’ Market remains
indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine.
We grow it, raise it, make it & bake it —
local produce, meat, cheese and more!
Vendor sampling takes place on the main
floor, Centre Court, 10am–1pm.
FREE Cooking Classes run from 11am–noon
upstairs in the Market Kitchen.
Skating Rink
Come skate with us! The rink is open
11am–7pm, weather permitting.
FREE PARKING
With Validation
2 Hours Saturday & Sunday
Half Hour Weekdays
Los Lobos
580 Talbot Street, London
519-439-6483
tuesday to saturday 11 am-11 pm
sunday 5 pm-11 pm
closed mondays
BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer
at Large brings years of experience in the restaurant
and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and
consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories Eatdrink
should be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under
his byline and behind the scenes.
Market Hours
Monday to Saturday
8am–7pm
Sunday 11am–5pm

DINNER SERIES
Continues to MARCH | Menus
and calendar on our website
Reservations | 519.271.1414
StratfordChefsSchool
@StratfordChef
OPEN KITCHEN
Classes for the dedicated
home cook | Register online
now for 2018 classes
stratfordchef.com

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celebrating 122 years in stratford
Stratford is
more than
great theatre
visitstratford.ca
55 GEORGE ST. W. STRATFORD
519.272.2828 | CHOCOLATEBARR.COM
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

16 | January/February 2018
Restaurants
London’s Latest
Resto Hot Spots
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
By BRYAN LAVERY | Photographs by NICK LAVERY
Last year saw a lot of changes on
the London restaurant scene. Chef
Thomas Waite’s Spruce on Wellington
opened in January — his cuisine is
expertly handcrafted, classic in its influences,
innovative in sensibility and plating. The
Wolfe brothers set the benchmark with
the stellar Wolfe of Wortley (which ranked
among Air Canada’s list of Canada’s Best
New Restaurants of 2017). The brothers then
opened the Mexican-themed Los Lobos in
August. All at once, Craft Farmacy, Reverie
Restaurant, Plant Matter Bistro, and Hunter
& Co. opened in the late fall. Hot on their
heels came the Wine Bar in Wortley Village
(replacing the former Gusto). Che Restobar
and Icarus have recently re-launched. David’s
Bistro is expected to relaunch mid-January.
That the Wolfe brothers are taking over the
Harvest Bakery in Wortley Village means that
things are not slowing down anytime soon.
Here is a brief but close-up look at four of
London’s newest and hottest restaurants.
Dispensing Deliciousness at
Craft Farmacy
The talented Jazey-Spoelstra and Wolwowicz
are partnered in Craft Farmacy with Harmen
Spoelstra. General Manage r Geoff Hammond
and Assistant Manager Cody Ballman round
out a powerhouse restaurant team. This is
the ultimate neighbourhood restaurant. With
112 seats, it features sharing plates, fabulous
house cocktails, craft beer, a superior wine list
and plenty of pizzazz. There is a private event
space with room for 40 on the second floor.
Jazey-Spoelstra’s stylish design sensibility
is reflected in Craft Farmacy, and delivers
style and comfort, with attention to the
smallest details. Setting the tone are a
long bar, stunning fireplace, custom-made
leather banquettes and repurposed tables
with comfortable chairs. The servers’ leather
aprons are custom designed by Coakley’s.
At Craft Farmacy, Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s
food is rustic yet progressive.
Jazey-Spoelstra delivers cutting-edge
and quality food experiences combined with
extraordinary service, her forte and hallmark as
owner of North Moore Catering, River Room
and Rhino Lounge. Wolwowicz (formerly of
The Springs on Springbank Drive) cooks with

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
reverence and purpose, sourcing ingredients from
producers and farms dedicated to sustainable
agriculture. Wolwowicz is aided by sous chef Kyle
Trafford and cook Jayden Wickert. Menu items are
progressive, rustic in style, featuring high quality
ingredients crafted from local, region-specific and
specialty products, and executed with aptitude,
innovation and attention to detail.
At a couple of pre-opening menu tastings
we watched Chef and Spoelstra tweak and
fine-tune every nuance of the menu. Chef
and his team are big on prep and having mise
en place ready, allowing for a quick and easy
execution of the dishes.
We enjoyed Roasted Bone Marrow with
Ox Tail Marmalade; Lamb Belly Croquettes;
Chicken Schnitzel with Warm Potato Salad,
Forked River Abbey Jus and Rapini; and Black
Pepper Crusted Duck Breast, Root Vegetable
and Duck Confit Hash with Blood Orange
January/February 2018 | 17
Gastrique. There is a fresh oyster bar featuring
a changing selection including Malpeque, Irish
Point, Daisy Bay, Raspberry Point, Lucky Lime
and Savage Blonde varieties.
Craft Farmacy is London’s first Feast ON
certified “Taste of Ontario” restaurant. Feast
ON is a criteria-based certification program
designed to promote, market, and protect the
authenticity of foodservice operators whose
specific attributes qualify their commitment
to local food. It is a program designed to help
you experience restaurants that champion
Ontario food and beverages. The program
uses both verification and enforcement
mechanisms to maintain its integrity.
Craft Farmacy
449 Wharncliffe Road South, 519-914-2699
11:30 am–midnight, closed mondays
Thoughtful Modern Canadian Cuisine at
Reverie Restaurant
There has been a movement towards a modern,
minimalist cuisine that is natural, but also
resolutely seasonal, local, and with a focus on
pristine ingredients and terroir. New Nordic
Cuisine has been a phenomenal success, one
that has resonated with chefs all over the world.
London-based chef Brian Sua-an has adapted
the Nordic discipline in refining the spectrum of
Canadian flavours. This is a new concept, modern,
minimalist and hyper-curated.
Before Reverie opened, I attended a tasting
menu preview that garnered spectacular
reviews. This is an intimate 500-square-foot
space with four tables of two (or a communal
table of eight) and four seats at the bar with
an open kitchen. There is one five-course
tasting menu that changes. The goal is to serve
inventive and intelligent cuisine based on
simple, high-quality ingredients and traditional
techniques. Everything else is secondary. By
keeping everything simple, from the pared-down
equipment (dishes are hand-washed) to the
minimalist interior, the environmental footprint
is kept to bare bones. The focus is on innovation
in a casual and relaxed setting.
Reverie is operated by Sua-an and his wife
Jerrah Reville. Sua-an previously staged at
NOMA and at 108 Restaurant in Copenhagen.
It had been his dream to open a restaurant, but
he never thought of it as a 12-seater, let alone
Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Reville focus on culinary
innovation in the intimate and casual Reverie .

18 | January/February 2018
serving a tasting menu only. Chef uses modern
techniques and applies them to his cuisine to
make a dish better, not less. Using seasonal
and local produce is important, but quality
is paramount. Chef plans food items months
in advance, but also intends that the concept
and development will evolve organically. Chef
gravitates to perfect ingredients and goes to
great lengths to source the very best of what is
available. Forests, meadows and waters provide
a diverse range of edible wild plants and funghi
to forage for the menu. Chef encourages diners
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
to eat specific courses with their hands.
The glassed frontage is reminiscent of a
terrarium and somehow seems fitting allowing
the outdoors to be part of the experience.
Sua-an says, “Simplicity with quality comes
first. Everything else is secondary.”
Reverie Restaurant
1–208 Piccadilly Street
reverierestaurant.ca, 519-914-6595
reservations only, wed–sun or by special
arrangement
Speakeasy Ambience with a Big City Vibe at
Hunter & Co.
Restaurateur Erin Dunham and executive chef Matt Kershaw
of The Other Bird restaurant group in Hamilton have
expertly refurbished the former Kantina/
Black George space on Talbot Street for their
latest restaurant project. Hunter & Co. is a
sultry cocktail bar/lounge with a speakeasy
vibe featuring interesting hot food, as well as
charcuterie and fresh oysters. We attended the
soft opening and realized immediately that if
you want a seriously well-crafted cocktail this
is the place to go. We could sit at the bar all
evening and watch Dave Fauteux and crew craft
cocktails.
The restaurant’s urban vibe takes
inspiration from two of their Hamilton-based
restos: Rapscallion Rogue Eatery (offering
culinary connoisseurs a full nose-to-tail
experience) and a little bit of Two Black
Sheep (offering oysters, charcuterie, salumi,
cheese and pickles, carefully crafted cocktails,
awesome wine and delicious craft beer). Menu
items, described as “big-flavour-probablybad-for-you
cooking,” include Confit Lamb
Shoulder, Tongue ‘n’ Cheek, “The Best Grilled
Cheese,” Pumpkin Seed Crusted Whitefish,
Pig Ear Poutine, Halloumi Tikka Masala, Fried
Calamari and Korean Fried Chicken.
Whether you’re visiting the chef-driven
and carnivore-focused Rapscallion Rogue
Eatery, Two Black Sheep, or playful taco bar
The Mule in Hamilton, Burro in Burlington
(serving everything from ahi tuna ceviche
to fish tacos), or the Woolf & Wilde at the
elegant-and-boutique Arlington Hotel in
Paris, Ontario, the motto is “And we just want
satisfy you.”
Hunter & Co.
349 Talbot Street
519-672-2555, hunterco.ca
3:30 pm–until late, seven days a week
Londoners can now enjoy the output of chef Matt Kershaw
of Hamilton’s acclaimed restaurant group The Other Bird,
at Hunter & Co. on Talbot Street.

January/February 2018 | 19
Organic, Plant-Based Indulgence at
Plant Matter Bistro
Plant Matter Bistro, across from the Central
Library, is a fine dining version of the popular
Wortley Village Plant Matter Kitchen. Owner
Glen Whitehead says that the bistro takes its
inspiration from New York, while Plant Matter
Kitchen is inspired by San Francisco.
Executive chef Michael Thorogood and chef
Zach McIntyre use local ingredients that are
100-per-cent organic and vegan. They work with
a number of local independent farmers to secure
that farm-to-table, as close to fresh and as close
to its natural state food experience as possible.
Open for lunch and dinner, the stylish restaurant
features dishes inspired by global cuisines. The
folks at Plant Matter Bistro are serving up dishes
like empanadas, cauliflower pot-au-feu, chickpea
and mushroom burgers, sweet potato gnocchi,
gourmet grilled cheese, ravioli, bibimbaps, and
enchiladas. A share board features caponata,
hummus, olives, crostini, pickled cauliflower and
cucumber and a selection of nuts for cheese. The
house-made ravioli with chèvre, cheddar, ricotta
and charred tomato sauce are exceptional. There is
a chocolate cheesecake with almonds, coconut oil,
organic cacao, sea salt and brown rice flour that is
remarkably rich and decadent.
Plant Matter Bistro
244 Dundas Street
plantmatterbistro.com
tues–thur 11 am–8 pm, fri–sat 8am–10 pm,
closed sunday and monday
BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at
Large.
Plant Matter Bistro offers fine dining, and is the downtown
London offshoot of the popular Plant Matter Kitchen. Photos
courtesy Plant Matter Bistro
Serving up
Great
partnerships
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Let us help with your next project...
519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca
www.sportswood.on.ca

20 | January/February 2018
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Road Trips
Beer and an Apron
There’s so much more to Niagara
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
By JANE ANTONIAK
There are few more picturesque road
trips than those to wine country.
I’ve been lucky to have sipped and
strolled through Sonoma, Napa,
Annapolis Valley in Nova Scotia, the Finger
Lakes area in New York, Lake Erie shores,
the emerging Lake Huron wine region, and
of course, the spectacular Niagara area. From
the escarpment benches to the Lake Ontario
shoreline, Niagara boasts a magnificent wine
culture. However, a recent road trip to the
area showed us that there is much more to a
getaway in Niagara.
Given that you cannot live on wine
alone, a day spent at the Wine Country
Cooking School in Niagara-on-the-Lake is an
instructional — and filling — way to learn
some new culinary tactics. The school opened
After school: enjoying the results, at Wine Country
Cooking School Photo: Bruce Fyfe
at Strewn Winery 20 years ago. It claims to be
the first cooking school in Canada located in
a winery. Operated by Jane Langdon, whose
husband Joe Will is the president of Strewn
Winery, the classes are so efficiently organized
that guests learn how to make, and then eat,
a four-course meal over a five-hour visit.
This is a hands-on experience. It is best to go
with a friend, as teams of two have their own
cooking stations where they make their own
food while following group instructions. The
exception is the appetizer, which is made,
with variations, by teams of four people, and
then taste-tested by the other participants.
We made an edamame dip which took on
different flavours at each station depending
on the quantity of garlic added. In total there
are 16 students per class led by Langdon and
her team of helpers who, in a most blissful
manner, whisk away each dirty utensil and
quickly return it cleaned to your station. If
only all kitchens had such fairies!
The menus change monthly and are
designed for the intermediate-level home
cook who wants an enjoyable outing, a good
meal, and some instruction. Langdon’s focus
is on making cooking easy. She enjoys using
local ingredients. For example, we made some
delicious baked pears stuffed with blue cheese
for dessert. As well, Langdon likes to teach
guests how to make things in advance so that
home dinner parties can be more enjoyable for
the hosts.
Near the end of the class, everyone sits
down in the dining room to enjoy the meal,
with wine pairings. Tasting notes are provided
by Will, who joins in for the meal.
As the weekend was still young we headed
to downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake. Bypassing
fudge and gift shops we made a beeline for
a cleansing lager. The Exchange Brewery —
funky, urban, and upscale — produces IPA,
porter, stout, saison and witbier. We were
eager to try the Peppercorn Rye Saison.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
January/February 2018 | 21
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2017 LEXUS RX 350
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22 | January/February 2018
The White Oaks Resort & Spa
Several bottles made their way into our car. In
a nod to the wine industry, beer in Niagara is
often bottled in wine-shaped containers.
Our driver, sensing our interest in
refreshments, next took us over to Niagara
Stone Road where there are two breweries
with two different atmospheres. Oast House
Brewery’s barn theme is a lot of fun. Red is
the signature colour: imagine barn boards and
gags like “the lunch box 4 pack” of Barn Raiser
Country Ale. It’s a friendly tasting room with an
outdoor patio and live entertainment, and is a
nice counterbalance to the seriousness of some
wine tasting rooms in the area. The Farmhouse
Ale series comes in wine-shaped bottles, and
Rural Route is a line of canned beers that
includes porters, IPA’s, ales, sours, stouts, and
some specialties made with ice wine.
Just down the street in an historic former
church is Silversmith Brewing Company,
which has award-winning beers and delicious
food offerings in a cozy setting. As you take a
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
seat at the bar you notice a large chalkboard
crammed full of names. If you’re lucky, your
name is there, because a friend bought you
a beer in advance of your visit. Silversmith
keeps a book of names, as well. Oh! Happy day
for many!
Not to be missed at Silversmith is The
Black Lager, which in 2017 won Silver at
the Canadian Brewing Awards, and Canada
Gold at the World Beer Awards. With coffee
and chocolate flavours, it’s light going down
despite it dense appearance. You might be
drawn to the Smokey and the Bandit lager,
which is a limited release. Both go well with
the goat cheese and ricotta dip and crusty
bread. Many diners in the beer hall were
raving about the chicken wings. All in all, a
great spot to linger.
With all the tasting and eating, overnight
accommodation might be welcome on this
road trip. Niagara-on-the-Lake offers many
historic inns and B&Bs, but consider White
Oaks Resort and Spa, about 10 kilometres
away from the centre of town. It is situated
next to the QEW and the newish Outlet
Collection of Niagara, Canada’s largest
outlet mall. This large hotel has a long list of
amenities including an impressive spa and
fitness centre. There are three dining options.
A meal at LIV Restaurant, a full-service finedining
experience, is included in many of
the resort’s getaway packages. White Oaks
is just the place to melt away the excesses of
Niagara’s offerings while enjoying a eucalyptus
steam bath. Ideally, spend the day at the spa,
after checking out of the hotel on the Sunday,
before your drive back home.
The Exchange Brewery in downtown Niagara-on-the-
Lake, Oast House Brewery, and Silversmith Brewing
Company are three area craft brewers to visit on your
road trip. Photo (Oast House) Bruce Fyfe

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Hello, London.
Ddamame dip (top) and baked pears baked pears stuffed
with blue cheese (right), made at the Wine Country
Cooking School, and a pint of Silversmith Brewing Co.’s
Black Lager. Photos by Bruce Fyfe
Niagara-on-the-Lake Resources
The Wine Country Cooking School
339 Lakeshore Rd (Strewn Winery)
905-468-1229
www.winecountrycooking.com
Oast House Brewers
2017 Niagara Stone Road, 289-868-9627
www.oasthousebrewers.com
The Exchange Brewery
7 Queen Street, 905-468-9888
www.exchangebrewery.com
Silversmith Brewing Company
1523 Niagara Stone Road, 905-468-8447
www.silversmithbrewing.com
The White Oaks Resort & Spa
253 Taylor Road, 1-800-263-5766
www.whiteoaksresort.com
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.
Cocktails. Oysters. Small Plates.
Open Late, Every Day.
Join us every Sunday after 8PM
for $5 beer, $5 wine & $5 food.
349 Talbot Rd., London
hunterco.ca

24 | January/February 2018
Restaurants
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Traditional Chinese Food
Where to Eat in London
By BRYAN LAVERY
Adistinction should be made between
regionally-inspired Chinese
restaurants and the ubiquitous
Canadian-Chinese immigrant-owned
diners that until recently were the norm
across Canada. Canadian-Chinese cooking
grounded in Cantonese tradition was quickly
adapted to the food and taste preferences of
diners in whatever locale Chinese immigrants
established themselves. The improvised dishes
they created, like chop suey, are dismissed
as “not Chinese” by experts of the culture.
Canadian-Chinese is a bastardized cuisine with
a brief vocabulary of standard sauces, altered
cooking times,
and interloper
ingredients
— in general,
techniques and
ingredients
designed to make dishes blander, thicker, and
sweeter. The most authentic expression of
Chinese cuisine is often withheld from the
inexperienced non-Chinese palate.
When Canada’s explicitly discriminatory
race-based barriers on Chinese immigration
grew less stringent, restaurants serving more
authentic Chinese cuisine started to replace
the hybrid Canadian-Chinese restaurants,
especially in larger cities. These restaurants
crossed regional borders, fusing Cantonese,
Szechuan, Shanghainese and Hunan cuisines,
and more often than not, tossing a few
recognizable Canadian-Chinese staples onto
the menu for good measure.
Clockwise from top
left:
Jasmine House
Wing’s Kitchen
Golden Dragon
London Chinese
Restaurant

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
January/February 2018 | 25
I grew up squeezing packets of China Lily
soya sauce over deepfried
egg rolls and
chicken chow mein.
Over the years, I have
benefited from the
guidance of colleagues
who seek out restaurants
that don’t blatantly cater to
wai guo ren — foreigners.
There are a myriad of restaurants in London
that offer genuine Chinese food, with only
a few that we patronize regularly offering
consistency in authenticity, quality, service
and price. Interestingly, the area around
Wonderland and Oxford Streets has become
a hub for Asian food. Due to the popularity
of Canadian-Chinese food, often the most
authentic Chinese restaurants pay homage
to the genre. When you go out for authentic
Chinese food, ask about the “traditional
Chinese” dishes on (or off) the menu.
Chinese restaurant menus almost
everywhere in London are wide-ranging in
scope and minimalist in detail. Menus are not
overwhelmingly helpful to the uninitiated
and generally toned down for inexperienced
palates. Stock photographs adorn menus and
sometimes hang on the walls. These photos
generally guide you to the Canadian-Chinese
chop-suey cuisine of chicken balls, sweetand-sour
pork and sweet-and-spicy General
Tao’s chicken instead of the authentic fare.
Not surprisingly many Chinese restaurateurs
frown on the deep-fried chop suey cuisine
and if pressed will make interesting and
disparaging remarks about it. Nevertheless,
the take-out and delivery business is quite
lucrative and does not stop them from giving
the public these easily and quickly prepared
versions of Chinese food.
Among the best and most consistent dim
sum is at London
Chinese Restaurant,
located in the strip
mall at Oxford and
Wonderland, where
2018 Chinese New Year: Friday, February 16 the former Sears
Outlet was located. It
has dim sum carts and
serves all day. (I will write more about the
London Chinese Restaurant at a later date.)
Wing’s Kitchen at Highbury near Cheapside
Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes
•
Contemporary & Traditional Teaware
•
NEW Light & Healthy Winter Menu
•
Valentine’s Tea: February 11
Robbie
Burns Dinner!
January 21
Vegan
Dim SumDay!
January 28
268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store)
519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com
TUES-THURS 11am-5pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN Special Events Only
“Pure
Chinese”
Cuisine
—Eatdrink
Monday to Sunday
11:30am to 8pm
Five Fortune
Culture
RESTAURANT
366 Richmond Street at King
www.fivefortuneculture.com
226 667 9873
Menu changes FRI–SUN

26 | January/February 2018
serves some of the best dim sum in the city.
I recommend you go there from Thursday
to Sunday for the best experience. Golden
Dragon in Byron is known for the best crisp,
dark-golden skin Peking duck. Ordering the
barbeque duck or Peking duck in advance
is recommended to ensure that you have
freshly barbequed duck. Congee House is
a favourite, and known for its Cantonese
dishes and congee. Jasmine House is a
modest restaurant with its own local quirks
and ambitions. It is an interesting offering,
with a window on Sichuan cuisine and
Spring (You Yi Cun)
Spring is a mom-and-pop business operated
by Jiang Quam Liu and Yue Hao Yang. Yue has
been cooking professionally for over 30 years.
(Don’t confuse Spring, half a block west of the
Spring is a Mom-and-Pop business operated by Jiang
Quam Liu and Yue Hao Yang, just west of the Palace
Theatre in London’s Old East Village.
Palace Theatre in Old East Village, with The
Springs on Springbank Drive.) The menu is
inspired by Mandarin and Cantonese cookery
Five Fortune Culture House
In downtown London Five Fortune Culture
Restaurant proprietors Wenbei and Jie Liang
Yin are part of a groundswell of restaurateurs
offering an authentic dining experience.
The cuisine, as prepared by Jie Liang and
interpreted by Wenbei, is “Pure Chinese” —
Yunnan with Sichuan and Guizhou influences.
Aromatic steamed pineapple rice is popular
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
showing Londoners the nuance and variety
that lies beyond garlic and the blast of heat
and flavours from chilies. Located in a small
plaza on Adelaide Street North (at Cheapside),
it serves good Sichuan dishes in a humble
and friendly environment. Five Fortune
Culture House is known for its Yunnan-style
home cooking with Sichuan and Guizhou
influences, not formulaic Chinese restaurants
serving Anglo-genres conceived by old-style
Taishanese and rural Cantonese immigrants
who adapted traditional Chinese recipes to
suit local tastes and available ingredients.
with a selection of Canadian-Chinese cuisine.
(The term Mandarin cuisine is often used to
refer to cuisine from Beijing.) Cantonese cuisine
(also known as Yue or Guangdong cuisine)
refers to the cookery of China’s Guangdong
Province, particularly the provincial capital,
Guangzhou (Canton). It is one of the Eight
Culinary Traditions of Chinese cuisines. This
unassuming culinary gem in the heart of Old
East London offers amazing food served with
pride and attention to detail. The dining room
at Spring is unremarkable; it approximates the
ambience of eating out in a modest home with
serviceable chairs and black Arborite tables
that are separated from a living area room with
a hutch. The kitchen is behind the living area.
Liu is gracious and quick to laugh. Signature
dumplings — house-made pork and chicken —
are bathed in broth with celery and bok choy.
We like the sautéed Asian eggplant. Stirred
Duck in Five Flavours with boiled potatoes are a
commingling of sour and sweet flavours. There is
a selection of dim sum offerings.
Spring
768 Dundas Street East
www.springrestaurant.ca
519-266-4421
hours: 11:30 am–10:30 pm daily
closed wednesdays
among Dai people and the perfect side dish
to soothe the heat of spicy offerings. In Jie
Liang’s hands the fragrant rice has a stunningly
delicate balance of sour and sweetness. A ripe
pineapple is scooped out and the flesh is cut
into small cubes and mixed with the scented
rice and other aromatics. It is served in the
hollowed pineapple shell with the leaf crown

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Five Fortune Culture Restaurant proprietors Wenbei and
Jie Liang Yin are part of the groundswell of restaurateurs
offering an authentic “pure” Chinese dining experience.
acting as a lid to keep the rice hot. Yunnan is
home to a vast range of fresh rice noodle soups
and stir fries. Mixian (fresh rice noodles) are
January/February 2018 | 27
gluten-free with a silky texture that absorbs
flavours efficiently. Yunnan’s best known dish,
Crossing Bridge Noodles, is a bowl of hot broth
served with a range of ingredients supplied
raw to the table, including rice noodles, thinly
sliced pork, poultry and fish, leafy vegetables,
bean curd, aromatics and cilantro to balance
out strong flavours, much like a hot pot. If
you’re not familiar with these flavours, it’s an
assertive dish. If you are, it’s simply enjoyably
comforting. Spicy Tom Yum seafood pot has a
sharp freshness and briny meatiness, deriving
its pungency from lemongrass and pepper.
Other specialities include thick, soft and chewy
udon noodles made from wheat. The green
onion pie is flavoursome and reminds me of the
Japanese savoury pancake, okonomiyaki. Try
the iced congee and dia bao (steamed buns).
The restaurant caters to International students
and gets extremely busy. When the restaurant
is full the wait time for food can be long.
Five Fortune Culture House
368 Richmond Street
226-667-9873
menu changes friday to sunday
phone ahead, hours can vary.
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28 | January/February 2018
Congee Chan
One of my favourite spots is Congee Chan on
Wonderland Road. In ancient times, people
named the thick congee chan, and the watery
one chi or mi. The restaurant offers a large
menu of Cantonese specialties prepared with
fresh high-quality ingredients. A favourite
traditional congee is the thick, preserved
egg congee with minced duck. The shrimp
dishes are a notch above most Asian-inspired
restaurants in London. This is traditional
Chinese regional cooking combined with
Canadian-Chinese cuisine with Americanized
versions of modern Asian specialties like
deep-fried, sweet and piquant General Tao
chicken. Congee Chan offers more than just
congee and noodles. Order the lobster with
ginger and green onion chow mein, and the
clams with black bean sauce. Congee Chan is
comparable to the good congee/noodle/rice
restaurants you’d find in Toronto. There are
set Chinese dinners for a reasonable price. The
interior is contemporary, colourful, warmly
lit and offers both booth seating and larger
round tables. Servers are knowledgeable,
hospitable and efficient.
Congee Chan on Wonderland
Road North at Beaverbrook
Congee Chan
735 Wonderland Road North (in the plaza
across from Angelo’s)
congeechanrestaurant.com
519-641-5686
sunday to thursday 11:30 am–10:00 pm
friday to saturday 11:30 am–10:30 pm
So Inviting
The Chinese bakery across from The Market at Western
Fair District lives up to its name. Hospitable owners
Yamei Min and Youjin Wang offer a variety
of savoury hand-made dumplings (pot
stickers) that include beef, chicken, pork,
and vegetable. There are three types of
sauces on offer depending on your palate.
Recently, they`ve added chicken fried rice to
the repertoire. There is a selection of not-toosweet
baking. The mooncakes with savoury
bean paste cookies are a big hit. Choose what
you want, it’s self-serve, and priced by weight.
The minimalist bakery is take away only, not
dine in. The interior is exceedingly tiny and
the prices more than reasonable.
So Inviting
876 Dundas Street
226-781-0788
On Facebook
monday to friday 11:00 am–6:30 pm
saturday 9:00 am–4:00 pm
BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink’s Food Editor and Writer at
Large.
With friendliness and enthusiasm, Youjin Wang and Yamei
Min offer pot stickers and dumplings (cooked and frozen)
at So Inviting, on Dundas at Ontario Street.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
eatdrink
January/February 2018 | 29
2018 London
Wine & Food Show
Profiles of
Excellence
SUPPLEMENT
Regional Slow Food Tours
Oxford County
Wok Box on Richmond Row
Thinking Outside the Box
Bourbon Street
Cajun & Creole Kitchen + Bar

eatdrink
Profiles of Excellence
Loving Local
Regional Slow Food Tours
Oxford County ON
The Cheese Trail
Five unique cheese companies form the backbone
of a diverse trail featuring every facet of the cheese
experience. Shep Ysselstein at his Gunn’s Hill Artisan
Cheese is among the finest artisanal cheesemakers
in Ontario. Located on Gunn’s Hill near Highway 59 in
Norwich Township, you also can enjoy pre-booked
interpretive talks and demonstrations.
In Bright, enjoy the wonderfully
flavourful naturally-aged Bright Cheese
& Butter’s extra-old cheddar — and
other award-winning favourites —made
by a cooperative cheese factory dating back
to 1874 that still uses milk supplied by local
dairy farms.
For over two decades, Local Dairy Products —
Amarjit Singh and his family — have been producing
high quality, artisanal, local and all natural dairy
products out of a historic cheese factory in Ingersoll.
You’ll find unique products inspired by the international
world of cheeses, as well as 20 vegetarian products
From fine dining to farmers’
markets, and everything in
between, Oxford County
has so many possibilities to choose from.
Woodstock, located at the junction of highways 401 and 403,
sits right in the middle of the county, surrounded by scenic
countryside dotted with charming towns and villages.
Explore the Cheese Trail or set your own course for a richly
rewarding culinary tour.
Have a sweet tooth? Check
out Habitual Chocolate
in Woodstock, a bean-tobar
chocolate shop , or
Chocolatea in Ingersoll,
for handcrafted chocolates
and world teas. Whatever
your passion, you can
likely indulge it and get an
authentic taste of historic
Oxford County.
including yogurt, cultured butter and ghee. Find them
at Ingersoll Foodland.
The van Bergeijk family founded Mountainoak
Cheese in 1996, after studying cheese making in
Gouda and running their own dairy farm outside
New Hamburg. Their state-of-the art facility
uses milk from their own herd. Enjoy 18
flavours of gouda and other award
winning varieties. Pre-book tours.
Quality Sheep Milk Ltd produces
farm-fresh dairy products worth the
stop on their 128-acre sheep and dairy
goat farm in Salford. Ellis, Hazel and Sion
Morris make fine cheeses and yogurts such
as their Italian-style Pecorino cheese and feta.
Get your Cheese Trail map to see the wide variety
of experiences available. And don’t miss the Ingersoll
Cheese and Agricultural Museum, dedicated to the
preservation, exhibition and interpretation of objects
that reflect Oxford County’s unique history.

The Restaurant Scene
A variety of dining options await! Sixthirtynine is a stellar 30-seat
Woodstock restaurant offering ever-changing seasonal menus of
locally-sourced ingredients from Owner/Chef Eric Boyar. A Chef’s Table
and tasting menus are available upon request.
Elm Hurst Inn & Country Spa, just off Hwy 401 at Ingersoll,
features nine private dining rooms in a heritage mansion full of modern
amenities, with Executive Chef Michael Davies helming the kitchen.
Louie’s Pizza & Pasta has been an Ingersoll tradition since 1994.
Chef Michael Gibson and his crew prepare a large menu selection in a
casual family dining atmosphere.
The Olde Bakery Cafe is a popular spot in Ingersoll to linger
over breakfast — try the Mexican Caramel Latte — have lunch with
friends or just drop by for
a decadent dessert..
Woodstock’s Charles
Dickens Pub, managed
by Karen Culley, provides
a cozy, warm and
welcoming ambience,
good food and local
entertainment.
Farms & Producers
Among the many farms offering unique regional tastes
distinctive to Oxford are several farm gate businesses. Greener
Pastures Eco-Farm in Innerkip specializes in pasture-raised
beef, pork and chickens, includingBelted Galloway cows and
Tamworth pigs. YU Ranch raises lean heritage breed Texas
Longhorn cattle and sells grass-fed beef on site.
Berrylicious Fruit Farm offers — no surprise! —
berries. Visitors are welcome to pick their own blueberries
and elderberries (seasonally) plus shop a selection of jams,
raspberries, pumpkins and enjoy several experiential summer
events. Thames River Farm grows and sells a variety of
vegetables and fruits from asparagus and zucchinis to sweet corn
and raspberries.
If it’s a one-stop-shop you seek, check out local farm shops
Bre’s Fresh Market and Sundown Farms in Tillsonburg. You’ll
find a variety of fresh
produce grown on
their farms plus a large
selection of produce,
cheese and more from
their neighbours.
Oxford has you covered
when it comes to fresh
and local ingredients
Image courtesy of Carolyn Bentum Photography
for your next meal.
Profiles of Excellence eatdrink
Shops & Markets
Of course, Oxford is also home to a
number of small scale producers. To
try out a broad selection, check out
the local famers’ markets. The Woodstock
Farmers Market — year-round since 1843
— is located at the Woodstock Fairgrounds,
where you’ll stumble across a number of local
tastes including fresh produce, baked goods,
coffee and tea, award-winning cheese and
more. The Downtown Woodstock Farmers
Market, located in historic Museum Square,
Ingersoll Farmers Market and Tillsonburg
Farmers Market all offer a wide selection
of produce, meat, eggs and more seasonally.
Wander the stalls, chat with the farmers and
find a unique local flavour.
For Maps, Itineraries
& More Information
Visitor Centre: 580 Bruin Blvd, Woodstock
Phone: (519) 539-9800 ext. 3355
Toll Free: 1-866-801-7368
www.tourismoxford.ca

eatdrink
Profiles of Excellence
Thinking Outside the Box
Wok Box on Richmond Row
Fresh Wok-Cuisine
Wok Box is a unique and totally different experience
than anything else in the fast-casual segment,
providing enthusiastic eaters who have a passion for
Asian-inspired meals with a choice of multi-faceted
flavours under one roof. They’re not just Chinese,
they’re not Japanese, and they’re not Thai. They’re the
best of all those countries, and then some.
Wok Box specializes in fresh, wok-cooked Asian
cuisine, offering simple but extensive menu options
inspired by the flavours of 10 Asian regions, including
Thailand, Malaysia, Mongolia, Singapore, Korea, China,
Japan, India, Cambodia and Vietnam. Wok Box’s main
meals consist of innovative fresh stir-fry noodle boxes,
rice boxes and curry boxes. Butter Chicken Naan-Wich,
Vietnamese Pho
and Korean Beef
Bulgogi. Noodle
and Rice boxes can
be customized with
beef, chicken, shrimp,
vegetables or tofu,
eight sauces and 14
toppings.
Also on the menu
are small bites like
spring rolls, samosas,
Cathy Docherty
chicken gyozas (pot
stickers), edamame and
cheesy kimchi fire balls. Many
dishes can be customized
vegetarian, vegan or glutenfree.
This is also healthy fare that
has been endorsed by the Heart
and Stroke Foundation.
An Urban
Wok Box
The latest iteration of Wok
Box has been custom designed
to fit the Richmond Row clientele,
ranging from neighbourhood
residents and office workers to
young professionals, families
and students. Owner Cathy
Docherty specializes in
creating memorable restaurant
experiences. She works hard to
understand her guests, knowing
that delivering above and beyond
their expectations — down to
even the simplest details — is
critical to the big picture
of being successful in
business. This is what Cathy
and her staff focus on each and
every day.
Cathy recognizes and
appreciates the value of a combination
of solid hiring practices and extensive staff training.
“Nothing is more fulfilling than being part of a team
with similar interests, and an organization that
values its employees,” says Cathy. She employs a lot of
really great people and offers her staff development
opportunities and new challenges to achieve personal
and career growth. This contributes to a consistently
outstanding guest experience.
The wiliness to do the unexpected sets Cathy apart
as a business owner. She reached out to Downtown

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink
London and other experts once she secured the space
at 575 Richmond Street, seeking out resources,
insights and advice to help curate a unique downtown
experience that reflects the latest research about
guest preferences. A year was spent on renovation
and refurbishment of the building and the facade,
respecting the heritage character of the building as well
bringing an urban sensibility to the pedestrian level.
This is the third London location for Wok Box, but
the first of this kind. This development was a natural
decision for Cathy and Bobby Docherty, who live
and work downtown. “There’s a whole community
downtown we haven’t had an opportunity to connect
with,” says Cathy. “We love walking to Richmond Row
restaurants.” Both Dochertys have solid backgrounds
in auto retailing but set out to find their own business
opportunity. In August 2010, they opened the first
Ontario location of Wok Box at the Hyland Centre in
the Masonville area. They opened a second location at
the Westwood Plaza on Wonderland Road.
Downtown Design
The downtown location not only gives the business better
proximity for catering office lunches, the Wok Box on
Richmond Row is larger than its suburban locations. This is
an urban version of Wok Box, with an expanded bar area
with funky seating
and neon signs in the
games zone. There
are retro video arcade
games, pinball, tabletop
air hockey and a
pool table.
Locations
Wok Box North London
1737 Richmond Street
519-667-7779
Wok Box South London
3099 Wonderland Road S
519-685-9555
Recognizing that the back of the building needed
extra work, Cathy found a creative solution. Well-known
and respected graffiti artist Brad Biederman was
recruited to paint a lively mural. At night, appropriate
lightening draws curious passersby to the location to
admire the image. Inside, local graphic designer and
artist Alejandro Cardona was brought on board to
create interior murals in his unique style.
The entrance to the restaurant features copperwrapped
table tops that extend up the wall for a unique
design statement that lets you know that will be a more
sophisticated experience than you might expect. The
seating is comfortable with several options, including
feature seating in a striking green horseshoe-shaped
booth. The design palette is a reflection of the fresh
light flavours on the menu. The comfortable restaurant
is licenced and the menu even offers delightful surprises
like prosecco — a reflection of the owner’s preferences
and personal touch.
Reflecting today’s trend toward more experiential
and casual dining, Cathy’s goal is to bring people into
Wok Box and give them a unique and fun experience.
Everything at Wok Box revolves around that simple
focus. “Our best marketing is giving the guest a great
experience so they tell others,” says Cathy. “Success is a
reflection of happy and repeat guests in the restaurant.”
Wok Box on Richmond Row
575 Richmond Street
519-672-3434
orderwokbox.ca
Open Daily at 11am

eatdrink
Profiles of Excellence
Bourbon Street
Cajun & Creole Kitchen + Bar
New Orleans-Inspired Deliciousness
Bourbon Street is London’s destination for
Cajun and Creole food. Serving breakfast,
lunch, and dinner, there are delectable
delights to satisfy your appetite no matter the
time of day.
An Unbeatable Setting
An outdoor patio space on Oxford Street is only the first of
many surprises. Located just west of Adelaide Street, the
location is minutes to downtown London but without the
hectic chaos. Ample free parking makes life convenient.
Rich woods, exposed brick, 16-foot ceilings and
an open kitchen create immediate ambience, with a
sleek and contemporary look accented by jazz-inspired
decorative touches. Natural light floods the space by day,
with interesting lighting creating a more intimate mood
by night.
Deep South Roots
Rooted in true New Orleans inspiration, Chef Dominic
Raso was first moved to cook Cajun and Creole food after
visiting Louisiana in the early 1990s. He returned home
to Alberta and opened a restaurant that integrated the
unique ambience, music, and delicious food that The Big
Easy is known for. His move to London means we can pull
up a chair at the open kitchen and watch his two decades
of experience in action, as he guides his kitchen team and
creates a real taste of New Orleans.
Incredible Food & Drink
Memorable meals depend upon the freshest delicious
ingredients, including Cajun & Creole seasoning
hand-blended on the premises. A full breakfast menu
includes Eggs Bourbon, with poached eggs served atop
homemade crab cakes, topped with a shrimp Creole

Profiles of Excellence eatdrink
sauce, and served with Cajun potatoes. Food allergies and dietary restrictions
can be accommodated. Lunch features a range of salads, sandwiches and po’
boys, and specialties such as the Pecan-Crusted Catfish and Cajun Jambalaya.
For dinner, try the Taste of N’awlins Platter, with grilled scallops, fried
oysters, crawfish etouffee, Bayou tilapia, rice
and Chef’s vegetables. House-made desserts
and specialty coffees complete the night in true
Southern style.
Explore the interesting wine list — featuring
both Ontario and international selections —
and creative signature cocktails like the Bourbon
Street Caesar, with house-infused chipoltle
pepper Pinnacle vodka and Walters’ clamato
juice, rimmed with house-blackened spice, with
pickled bean, pepper and lemon wedge.
Pleasurable Jazz
New Orleans is also about the music. Catch the popular Live Jazz Brunch
and select Saturday night jazz performances at Bourbon Street. Special
events occur throughout the year.
Cooking Classes
Have you always desired to cook New Orleans-inspired food in your own
kitchen? You’re in luck — the people of Bourbon Street can teach you
how, and it’s easier than you might think! Whether you’re a beginner or a
seasoned veteran looking to add a couple more recipes to your repertoire,
our Chef will take
you on a stepby-step
journey
to making your
own great food
— from delicious
appetizers to
exceptional
entrees. His vast experience and unbridled enthusiasm will ensure that you’ll
master every step of making incredible food for yourself and your family.
Ready to experience New Orleans-inspired cuisine?
Make a reservation today!
Bourbon Street
Cajun & Creole Kitchen + Bar
587 Oxford Street E , London
519-667-2000
bourbonstreetlondon.ca
Tuesday–Saturday: 10 am–10 pm
(Open Mondays until mid-February)
Sunday: 9 am–8 pm

S we e t and
S u c c u l e nt wine s
at ou r uniqu e
wine ries.
AT GOURMET
RESTAURANTS,
QUAINT TEA ROOMS
AND COZ Y CAFES.
sav ou relgin.c a

e l ginartstrail.c a
y ou rself to y ou r
v e ry own
one -of -a-k ind
piece of loc al art.
Y OUR INNER ARTIST BY
TAKI NG A CL ASS OR
WORKS H OP AT A LOCAL
S TUDI O OR GALLERY .

38 | January/February 2018
The BUZZ
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Culinary Community Notes
London
The big news for 2018 will continue to be the
ever increasing popularity and passion for plantbased
cuisine. Vegetarian, vegan and root-tostalk
cooking have gone from hot food trends to
mainstream contenders. London’s newest plantbased,
vegan, organic, fine dining restaurant Plant
Matter Bistro recently opened across from the
Central Library. There’s also a new grab-and-go hot
spot in town creating vegan comfort food, V Food
Spot at the corner of Dundas and Clarence Streets
operated by Michelle Lenhard, Andy Paquet and
Dana Inglis.
The Forest City Cookbook, featuring 120+ original
recipes from London’s culinary community, has
surpassed their crowd-funding campaign goal.
To guarantee yourself a copy, you must pre-order
through the Forest City Cookbook site (it has been
extended until February 15, 2018). Once the funding
campaign is closed, there will be no other way to
purchase a book — no second print run — so order
your copy today! forestcitycookbook.com
Chef Josh Sawyer and Elaine Sawyer’s Wich Is
Wich: a proper sandwich and supper shop is now
open evenings, Thursday to Saturday, with a playful
but intelligently curated menu. Lights will dim and
the focus shared with great wines and cocktails. A
series of “pop up” themed suppers will begin with
“1920’s Sicily” in November. wichiswich.ca
Londonlicious — The Blizzard Edition — runs
January 12–February 4. “Taste The Industry’s
Best Lunch & Dinner Menus For Less.” Lunch
menus start at $15 for two courses, and threecourse
dinners are $25–$40. Over 40 restaurants
are participating this year, so there is literally
something for everyone. Find the list of locations
and menus at www.londonlicious.ca but contact the
restaurants directly to make your reservations.
Nutritionist Julie Kortekaas and Chef Shayna
Patterson opened Rebel Remedy to rave reviews at
242 Dundas St., last year. The popular downtown
take-away features plant-based breakfast and
lunch options, Pilot Coffee, cold-press juices,
salads, and kombucha. rebelremedy.com
Carmen Mihaltan and Simelia Moga’s new Cameli’s
Pastry and Café has opened at 119 Dundas Street.
London Training Centre has launched the next
series of Provisions Cooking Classes. These two
night classes in January, February and March are
a fantastic opportunity for people to work closely
with chefs Simon Briggs and Steve James. The
classes are small — 8 to 10 people. londontraining.
on.ca/provisions-cooking-classes.pdf
London Wine Bar has opened a second location in
Wortley Village at 175 Wortley Rd. in the former
Gusto location. Chef Nam Nguyen from the
Tasting Room has created a menu of small plates,
appetizers, pastas and offerings that are globally
inspired.
Commercial & Residential
Upholstery Specialists
Hunter & Co., London
Lifetime Warranty on Workmanship
Email your furniture photo
or call for a quote!
Robert Robinson’s
UPHOLSTERERS SINCE 1916
119 Consortium Court, London
robertrobinsons@rogers.com
519 455-9910

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
The Other Bird restaurant group opened Hunter
& Co. in December. They recently released their
first cookbook, Debauch, with recipes from chef/
owner Matt Kershaw. It also features some
stunning crafted cocktails. Sunday is Industry Night
starting at 8PM, with $5 specials all night long.
debauchcookbook.ca
Restaurateur/caterer Jess Jazey-Spoelstra and
Chef Andrew Wolwowicz’s stylish Craft Farmacy
opened to acclaim in December. The owners are
committed to sourcing and celebrating local
Ontario food. The menu focuses on craft beer, a
large selection of fresh oysters with rustic farmto-table
food. 449 Wharncliffe Rd, just north of
Baseline. 519-914-2699
January/February 2018 | 39
Corn is never part of these animals’ diet. Hambalek
also sources free range chickens. The main store is
located at 892 Dundas St. thehungarybutcher.com
Agnes Petenyi operates a popular booth at the
Market at Western Fair called The Butcher’s
Wife, and is opening a new store in January at 10
Hawthorne. The new operation will feature cabbage
rolls, goulash, pastries and takeout.
Michael Naish and Justin Belanger have opened
Storm Stayed Brewing, a brewpub in the premises
Reverie, a new 12-seat “tasting menu” restaurant on
Piccadilly Street just west of Richmond, showcases
a Canadian-focused five-course menu every night
from Wednesday to Sunday. Owner/ Chef Brian
Sua-an will be featuring “Pastry Sundays” beginning
in January 2018. Reverie offers an intimate,
immersive, innovative experience with a combination
of understated platings and vibrant flavours and
textures. Reservations required. reverierestaurant.ca
TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant is a gem tucked
inauspiciously on Dundas Street between Burwell
and Maitland. Owners T.G. and Sam guide the uninitiated
to select from a menu of outstanding and
perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties that are
elaborately spiced. Vegetarians and expats flock
here. 465 Dundas Street 519-433-4222
Each week, Miki Hambalek of The Hungary
Butcher makes fresh sausages from old world
recipes, using only the finest pork, beef and spices.
All his beef products are from hand-selected cattle
— sourced from local farms that do not use GMO
feeds or antibiotics, grass fed and silage finished.
twelve seats
five course tasting menu
Contemporary Canadian Cuisine
208 Piccadilly Street, London
reverierestaurant.ca
By Reservation Only 519 914-6595

Love What You Eat!
Top 8
Detoxifying
Spices
Turmeric
Cumin
Ginger
Saffron
Rosemary
Cayenne
Cardamom
Cinnamon
Open 7 days a week
223 Colborne St., Port Stanley
Saturdays at Western Fair,
900 King St., London
(519)782-7800
www.peppertreespice.com
100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table
Hormone & Drug-Free
Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken
THE VILLAGE
MEAT SHOP
LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY
WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR
• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb
• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken
• Glengyle Farm Organics
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market: Saturdays, 8am–3pm
226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
once occupied by The Cove restaurant at 169
Wharncliffe Rd. S. stormstayed.com
The London Wine & Food Show returns with
more food, wine and entertainment than ever
before. The show promises to bring Londoners an
enticing mix of local restaurants, wineries, craft
beers, and spirits. There will taste seminars, stage
presentations and entertainment. Sip, sample and
savour at London’s Wine & Food Show! Metroland
Media Agriplex. January 18-20, 2018: Thursday
5–10:30; Friday 3–10:30; Saturday afternoon
12 noon–4:30; and Saturday evening 6–10:30.
westernfairdistrict.com/wine-food-show
Restaurant entrepreneurs Cathy and Bobby
Docherty recently opened a new Wok Box on
Richmond Row. Wok Box specializes in fresh, wokcooked
Asian cuisine, offering simple but extensive
menu options inspired by the flavours of 10 Asian
regions: Thailand, Malaysia, Mongolia, Singapore,
Korea, China, Japan, India, Cambodia and Vietnam.
Noodle and Rice boxes can be customized with beef,
chicken, shrimp, vegetables or tofu, eight sauces
and 14 toppings. Many dishes can be customized
vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free. It’s also healthy
fare that has been endorsed by the Heart and
Stroke Foundation.
Blu Duby has a diverse and loyal clientele by
combining an accessible menu and wine list with
upbeat ambience. Blu Duby North on Fanshawe
Park Road west of Wonderland features the same
great menu and service that you’ve come to expect
from their downtown London location. Dan Groves
has joined as General Manager for Blu Duby
downtown. Peter Pownal has joined as General
Manager Blu Duby North. Chef Dani Murphy is
operating the kitchen at Blu Duby North and Chef
Graham Stewart recently launched a new shareable
menu downtown. Manager Scott MacDonald
recently celebrated 5 years at Blu Duby Downtown.
bluduby.com
Michelle Pierce Hamilton and Yixing Tang of
The Tea Lounge, located at 268 Piccadilly Street,
recently celebrated their first year anniversary.
Patrons can experience exceptional quality,
ethically-sourced teas from around the world. A
selection of healthy snacks and baked goods by
well-known local bakeries are available to take
with your tea, whether you’re in the mood for a
tasty treat, wholesome ingredients, or have food
sensitivities. Several fun and educational tasting
events will be held in January and February
including Vegan Dim Sum, Robbie Burns Dinner and

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Valentine’s Day Tea. beteas.com/tea-lounge/
10Eighteen coffee bar in Old East Village features
hand crafted, fresh pour over coffee and espresso
roasted by O’Joe. They offer something for
everyone, including food, craft beer and wine.
10eighteen.ca
Growing Chefs! Ontario opened last year in the
former Auberge Restaurant at King and Maitland
and is home for the ground-breaking program that
unites chefs, growers, educators and community
members in children’s food education projects. The
sunrooms, dining rooms and bar have been turned
into teaching areas. Upstairs features three rooms
that can be used for private functions, corporate
meetings and teaching facilities. Executive Director
Andrew Fleet tells us that they will have one of the
first Ocean Wise events in London in January and
definitely the first with Northern Divine Aquafarms.
growingchefsontario.ca
Community-focused, local, organic and
sustainable are the words used to describe The
Root Cellar’s philosophy. With an emphasis
on “from scratch” seasonal menus, Chef Paul
Harding and his culinary team procure ingredients
from local organic farmers. We love the locallysourced
sausages and water buffalo burgers.
rootcellarorganic.ca
January/February 2018 | 41
Chef Kim Sutherland has been hired to lead the
culinary experience in the new $6.1 million dollar
Boler Mountain Chalet. Well known and respected
in the London culinary scene, Chef Sutherland is a
local Londoner with extensive experience in large
scale culinary establishments with an eye to local
sustainable practices. Former executive chef at
Budweiser Gardens, Sutherland is passionate about
local, sustainable food and loves to share that
passion with others. Sutherland’s menus for Boler
Mountain include an array of healthy and familyfriendly
items to meet the needs of active outdoor
enthusiasts. Chef will also be offering special
occasion meals for corporate functions, weddings
and private events. Seating is available for up to
200 in a variety of private space configurations
bolermountain.com/wedding-conf-meetings/
Shawn Slade and Shannon Kamins of Booch
Organic Kombucha have scored provincial honours
by being named Young Entrepreneurs of the Year by
the Ontario Chamber of Commerce.
Destination for the food lover
Featuring specialty foods,
kitchenwares, tablewares,
cooking classes and gift baskets.
115 King St., London Ontario
jillstable.ca 519-645-1335
EatDrinkAd_2017.indd 1 2017-04-19 2:28

42 | January/February 2018
The People’s Choice Awards are presented by the
London Region of the Ontario Restaurant Hotel and
Motel Association to individuals who are selected
through consumer votes. Online voting closes on
Thursday, January 18. londonhospitalityawards.
com/Peoples-Choice-Awards
David Chapman of David’s Bistro presents
perfectly executed classic regional French-inspired
specialities and has developed a strong and rustic
culinary signature. French cuisine is all about
tradition and consistency, and nobody does it
Your love of all things Italian begins at
OPEN SUNDAY FOR DINNER &
MON–SAT FOR LUNCH & DINNER
519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
better, night after night than the folks at David’s.
The restaurant will re-open February 10th after
months of renovations. The bistro is a venerated
downtown culinary destination with an extensive
and ever-changing consignment wine selection. 432
Richmond Street (at Carling) 519-667-0535
Mark Serre makes The Morrissey House a
welcoming destination, with a unique selection of
beers and innovative pub food offerings. The pub
offers women a 13% discount on lunch and dinner
items on Mondays. It’s Serre’s way of confronting
the gender pay gap that has left Canadian women
earning 87 cents an hour for every dollar made by
men, according to Statistic Canada data. Previously,
Monday nights were reserved for the pub’s patrons
taking part in trivia quizzes. Now, the Monday
women’s discount night will also involve donations
to local charities such as Anova, My Sisters Place,
Life Spin and the London Abused Women’s Centre,
among others. 359 Dundas Street. 519-204-9220
The Lavery Culinary Group is offering its full
range of services to businesses from fine-casual
restaurants to fine dining establishments
to artisanal and specialty food start-ups.
Consultation services for both new and existing
businesses include entrepreneurial support,
business planning, menu development, employee
training, and more. Culinary marketing services
comprise photography, cinematography and visual
storytelling, as well as web development. They
provide specialized services to entrepreneurs in
the food community to help them bring new ideas
and businesses to market. Expertise is focused
on helping start-ups and existing restaurants
improve operations to achieve a sustainable and
profitable operation. From Farm to Fork, the Lavery
Culinary Group’s experience will guide any culinary
endeavour to success. bryan@laveryculinarygroup.
com, 519-280-7565

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Donald and Nora Yuriann’s Dragonfly Bistro has an
irresistible kitchen, a moderately priced menu, and
genial service. They recently celebrated 10 years
in business. Join them Mondays for the Indonesian
prix-fixe menu only. On Wednesday–Saturday you
can order from the a la carte menu. 5:30–9pm
for dinner. Open for lunch Wednesday, Thursday
and Friday. This is a hidden gem in plain sight, on
Richmond Row. 715 Richmond Street, 519-432-2191
The River Room, Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s venue
inside Museum London, has banks of tinted windows
with panoramic views overlooking the Forks of the
Thames. With the clubby ambience of a Manhattan
restaurant, with its casual, tailored décor and New
York attitude, The River Room is open for lunch
Tuesday–Friday, and weekends for Brunch. Museum
London, Ridout St. N., 519- 850-2287
Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium, London’s premier craft
beer destination, is owned and operated by publican
Milos Kral. Chef Matt Reijnen prepares menus that
reflect their farm-to-table commitment and passion
for everything local. There are 23 micros on tap, with
excellent style variation. Craft beer enthusiasts and
serious hop heads have made this local landmark
part of Ontario’s rich pub culture. 420 Talbot Street
North (at Carling), 519-601-4447
January/February 2018 | 43
featuring innovative, seasonal blackboard specials
with health-conscious menu choices. Drivers need
to come onto Blackfriars Street from Wharncliffe
Rd. 46 Blackfriars St., 519-667-4930
The Grand Theatre and Business Cares were
thrilled to announce that the Grand’s inaugural
#HumbugtoHunger campaign created in support
of the London Food Bank raised $133,169. They
reached out to more than 25,000 theatre patrons
attending the holiday engagement of A Christmas
Carol. Following each performance, actor Benedict
Come together & connect at
481 Richmond Street
519-432-4092
dine@garlicsoflondon.com
garlicsoflondon.com
Zen Gardens Vegetarian Restaurant’s creative
kitchen serves the best healthy vegetarian meals
that you can imagine, in an upscale, tranquil
atmosphere. Even meat substitutes are made
from natural ingredients and spices; absolutely
no chemicals or preservatives. 344 Dundas Street,
519-433-6688
Meander a couple of blocks from downtown to
Blackfriars Bistro and peruse Betty Heydon’s
eclectic, handwritten menu. Located steps from the
historic Blackfriars Bridge, this is an artistic bistro
Designed and Built for You!
Call Now
for
Your Free
Consultation
Design Centre
2200 Wharncliffe Road S, London
519-652-0013
www.allensbuiltins.ca

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
REOPENING FEBRUARY 10
LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30
DINNER from 5pm daily
432 Richmond Street
at Carling • London
ALWAYS
a 3-course prix fixe
menu option
www.davidsbistro.ca
Campbell (Ebenezer Scrooge) spoke to the audience
about the increasing number of Londoners in
need — more than 8,000 each month. “Imagine
this theatre filled ten times over. That represents
the number of individuals helped by the London
Food Bank each month, 40% of whom are children.”
Cast members were then on hand in the lobby with
collection baskets.
“#HumbugtoHunger was a combined effort
across the entire organization,” said Deb Harvey,
Grand Theatre Executive Director. “We started with
a beautiful production that told a story of kindness
and charity. With a committed group of staff and
backstage crew, a supportive Board of Directors,
coverage by local media, and, most importantly, the
generosity of audiences, we raised this incredible
amount. It was a magical experience for all of us.”
“The Business Cares campaign continues to grow
with new partners every year,” said Wayne Dunn,
Business Cares Campaign Chair. “Each partner
adds a new layer of awareness across the city and
the Grand’s #HumbugtoHunger campaign has
done as much for raising awareness as it has had
in impacting our fundraising totals.” At the final
performance, Dunn met with the cast and crew to
talk about the impact of their efforts. “This level of
donation has a huge impact on our ability to raise
the nutritional value of the Food Bank’s offerings
... We will be able to purchase more perishable
food items such as milk, eggs, bread, fruit and
vegetables.” Congratulations from Eatdrink to all
involved. businesscares.ca londonfoodbank.ca
Edo Pehilj has made Garlic’s of London the
prototype for the ethical modern Ontario
restaurant. The cooking repertoire is influenced
by a strong commitment to supporting local
and sustainable food and agriculture, and has
been instrumental in helping to raise the bar
for intelligent and ethical dining in London. 481
Richmond Street, 519-432-4092
You may well be sitting on a connection to London
history. Robert Robinson’s Upholstery has been in
business since 1916, and continues to serve many
of the city’s restaurants, new and old. Providing
residential and commercial upholstery, including
quality repairs and re-coverings to any type of
fabric, their highly experienced and skilled team
offers in-home repairs as well as pick-up and
delivery for larger jobs. All their work is covered by
a lifetime warranty. 519-455-9910
142 fullarton at richmond
Stratford
We are hearing great reports of fab new Stratford
restaurant The Common, at 80 Wellington Street

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
in the former Monforte on Wellington space. “Our
cuisine is an eclectic mix of comfort food from
around the world.” Join Chef Tim Otsuki to eat
without borders. thecommonstratford.com
Starting in March and running until the end of
September, roll up your sleeves, tie on an apron and
join the instructors at the Stratford Chefs School for
Open Kitchen: hands-on classes for the dedicated
home cook. All classes are held in the state of the
art Stratford Chefs School kitchens at 136 Ontario
Street and range in cost from $45 to $75. Discount
multi-class passes available! stratfordchef.com/
open-kitchen or call 519-271-1414.
Stratford Chefs School’s popular Dinner Series
returns on January 9th after the winter break.
Known as Stratford’s most cherished culinary
secret, the Dinner Series features the talent of
Canada’s next generation of exceptional chefs.
Menus change daily and include wine pairings with
each course. Dinners run until March 2 and often
sell out. stratfordchef.com or call 519-271-1414.
Stratford Chefs School welcomes International
Chefs in Residence in January. Italian Michelin Star
Chef Cristina Bowerman (Glass Hostaria, Rome)
joins the School January 23–27. Known for her highly
innovative cooking that honours her Italian heritage,
Chef Bowerman will create menus and mentor
students in the SCS Kitchens during her residency.
This is your opportunity to taste the food of one of
Italy’s most respected chefs. January 30 to February
3, the School welcomes Argentinian Chef Matias
Aldasaro (Casa del Visitante, Mendoza). As Executive
Chef of a 5-star restaurant at the renowned Familia
Zuccardi Winery, Chef Aldasaro’s menus emphasize
the important balance between food and wine.
Reservations are required. To book online, please go
to stratfordchef.com, or call 519-271-1414
January/February 2018 | 45
February 1 with new offers and a fresh new look
just in time for Valentine’s Day. Enjoy six delicious
chocolate tastes for just $30 on your custom
designed self-directed route Tuesday–Saturday
(Offers limited on Sun & Mon) visitstratford.ca/
chocolatetrail
Savour Stratford Maple Trail, the seasonal
spring trail, will be available March 1– April 30.
visitstratford.ca/mapletrail/
Revival House is taking a seasonal break for the
month of January. Thursday to Saturday dining
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Reservations
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Hey Cupcake!
www.heycupcake.ca
275 Wharncliffe Rd. North
519-433-CAKE (2253)
STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7
Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4
The heart of
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NEW
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Menu
Bistro • Pub • Catering • Guest Suites
Historic Post Office & Customs Building
71 Frank St, Strathroy • 519-205-1500
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and weekend Brunch will return on February 1,
2018. The intimate upper dining room, The Belfry,
which seats up to 40 guests, will be Stratford’s cozy
go-to for evening meals, get-togethers and sharing
warm experiences during the winter months by the
fireplace. Chef Loreena Miller’s country-French
menu includes local seasonal offerings with small
plates like Roasted Root Vegetables (Honey + Herb
Pistou, Candied Walnuts), classic French Onion
Soup (Swiss cheese, sourdough croutons), Roasted
Beets Salad (Goat’s Cheese, Hazelnuts, Honey +
Citrus) and Crispy Camembert (Rosemary, Sour
Cherry Preserves and crostini). Grand Plates
include the soul-warming Risotto Aux Champignons
(Oyster and Cremini mushrooms, parmesan tuile,
thyme oil), Beef Short Rib (red wine braised, greens,
parsnips, and pommes puree) and Potato Gnocchi
(butternut squash, Cremini mushrooms, parmesan
cream and sage). Availability may be affected by
concerts and special events so reservations are
suggested. 519-273-3424. revival.house
The 2018 “String Bone Presents Live at Revival
House” monthly concert series continues winter
through spring, featuring Canadian musicians in a
one of a kind concert setting. The dining and events
venue launches the 2018 concerts on February 2
with A Tribute to Willie P Bennett featuring Rick
Taylor, Blurry Pickers and more. March 2 will
feature Whitehorse-based, Western Canadian Music
Award winning Sarah MacDougall on a double bill
with 2016 Canadian Folk Music Award Nominee
Megan Bonnell. Tickets and other concert info can
be found at stringbonepresents.com
The 3rd Annual Revival House Winter Craft Beer
Festival on Sunday, February 25 features an
afternoon of food with beer samplings presented
by brewers from across the province. Meet brew
masters and beer aficionados from Ontario craft
breweries including the new Shakespeare Brewery
and other favourites Cowbell Brewing, Railway
City Brewing, Stratford’s own Black Swan Brewing
Co. and more. $35 tickets and event information
available at revival.house
Around the Region
Patrick’s Beans has grown to serve customers
across Southwestern Ontario and continues to
provide consistently great tasting coffee. It’s not
just Patrick Dunham’s coffee that’s approachable
— the business philosophy of Patrick’s Beans is
all about making personal connections. Dunham
roasts coffee beans in small batches and then
blends them to achieve tastes and complexities
that cannot be found in single varietal options.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Patrick’s Beans provide core commitment to
quality, relationships and hands-on service. In
fact, Dunham carries out most of his deliveries,
to businesses and residences, in person. When
Dunham opened Patrick Beans three years ago,
he wanted to continue and expand on the benefits
that buying Fairtrade and Direct Trade coffee has
with growers. Often Fairtrade coffee is sold at a
premium in Canada and the profit stops at the
roaster/cafe. Dunham wanted to find a way to
continue the economic impact of premium coffee
in the communities he operates in. The program
launched by donating 1% of total roast volume per
month to community organizations. This began at
8 lbs a month and has grown to 30 lbs per month,
divided between three cities and five organizations.
patricksbeans.com
Join Upper Thames Brewing Company and Habitual
Chocolate as they take you through the art of
pairing beer with chocolate. Learn and taste the
outcome at this delicious workshop All proceeds
go to the Canadian Mental Health Association of
Oxford. 50 Tickets, $20/each are available at Upper
Thames and Habitual Chocolate. January 11th
at 7-9pm, Upper Thames Brewing Company: 225
Bysham Park Rd. Woodstock.
Food as Medicine Workshop: Join Amy Walsh as
she discusses how food can help your health, lower
inflammation and give you more energy. Check out
tasty and easy meal ideas plus take home recipes
and sampling. $35 fee, January 13th 9:30am-12pm,
Indigo Lounge: 264 Tillson Avenue, Tillsonburg
Woodstock Chamber of Commerce Presents Forks
& Corks: Enjoy live music while mingling and
sampling a selection of domestic and craft beer,
wine, spirits and of course, food. $45 + HST ticket
for three hours of sampling. February 6th at 6-9pm,
Oxford Auditorium: 875 Nellis St, Woodstock, ON
The Minimum Wage Increase will be phased in over
the next 18 months, rising to $14 an hour on Jan. 1,
2018. Workers who have held a job for five years
will now be entitled to three weeks of paid vacation.
They will also have the right to 10 emergency days
annually, two of which must be paid; reasons for
leave will be expanded, meanwhile, to include the
experience or threat of domestic or sexual violence.
Students and liquor servers have separate, lower
minimum wages than the standard under the new
legislation. Liquor servers will see an increase from
$10.10 per hour to $12.20 per hour. Students under
the age of 18, who work part time during the school
year (up to 28hrs/week) and on school breaks, will
see an increase from $10.90 per hour to $13.15 per
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hour. Ontario is the only province where liquor and
student servers are subject to a wage lower than
the minimum wage, although, similar exemptions
exist in B.C. and Quebec for tipped employees.
Are you a business owner in the tourism industry
looking to enhance your current offerings? Are you
looking to learn and improve skills that will bring
your experience to the next level? Are you looking
to be inspired and meet new people? The Ontario’s
Southwest Tourism Conference is a fantastic
opportunity to kick-start change and create a
better future. This year’s conference will be held
March 20–21 in Leamington, at the Best Western
Plus Leamington Hotel & Conference Centre.
Keynote speaker David Coletto is a marketing
research leader and an expert on millennials.
Coletto delivers strategic advice and research
design expertise to many of Canada’s foremost
corporations, advocacy groups, and political
leaders. See the full agenda and registration
information at www.oswconference.com.
Mon/Tues 11:30–10, Wed/Thurs 11:30–11, Fri/Sat 11:30–12, Sun 11–10
www.peleeisland.com
Valentine’s Day is recognized as a day for romance
and dining. Chocolates, cards and flowers may be
expressions of love on Valentine’s Day, but many
couples take it one step further and dine out on
February 14th. What better night to go out and
dine and combine the pleasures of love of food and
wine? Many of us agree sharing the pleasure of
dinner together publicly is a romantic expression
of our affections. In fact, going out to a restaurant
to remains the number one preferred activity for
spending time with family and friends. Studies
state that Canadians choose to make it a special
night with a loved one, as 86% of Valentine’s Day
reservations were for a table for two. We suggest
you book early.
We want your BUZZ!
Do you have culinary news or upcoming events
that you’d like us to share?
Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than
50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario
in print, and thousands more online.
Get in touch with us at
editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly with
our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery
at bryan@eatdrink.ca
Deadline for submissions for the March/April issue
is February 15.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Beer
Beer-Preneurs
The Business of Opening a Brewery
January/February 2018 | 49
by AARON BROWN
Few other businesses conjure up
such specific pictures when we
imagine them being started. We
imagine the founding of a brewery
as an alchemical event that invariably
occurs in a garage or a basement. There’s a
lot of hugging and high-fiving, and before
you know it there’s a sketch of a logo and a
shortlist of pun-tastic business names.
While we can imagine the eureka moment
that starts it all, the middle part, before
the doors open, is where things are
perhaps a bit fuzzy and less intuitive.
What really goes on in that in middle
stage between inspiration and an open
door? Here are some stories from a
new crop of brewers who are in various
stages along that pathway. All of them
have just opened, or will be opening
imminently.
Rob Dundas of Dundas and Sons
Brewing Company faces the longest
path forward of any of the brewers I
Rusty Wrench Brewing Co. recently opened in
downtown Strathroy. In addition to beer, they are
also brewing kombucha.
Storm Stayed Brewing
Co. has already
established itself
as a neighbourhood
gathering space in
London’s Old South.
spoke with. Considering brewing as a culinary
activity and as an extension of cooking,
Dundas wants to work with local ingredients
as much as possible. The use of not just local
hops but also local malts is something Dundas
is excited to showcase.
Though Dundas is tight lipped about the
exact locations he has been viewing, it is clear
that site selection is underway. This is what
a brewery
looks like
in the
embryonic
stages.
There is
something
growing
and taking
shape but
it needs to

50 | January/February 2018
find a place to anchor itself before the next
stages can happen. The gestation period of a
brewery varies wildly.
Once a space is found the passionate
entrepreneur can walk into the next set of
challenges. Dreams have to meet with the
rigid realities of the available space. The
aspiring brewer will also need to meet with
contractors, inspectors, and regulators
at every level of
government. Federal tax
registration, provincial
licensing, and compliance
with local bylaws, zoning,
and building codes — all
this comes once a lease is signed.
Herald Haus Brewing Company in
Stratford, and Curley Brewing
Company of London are in
exactly this moment right
now. In my chat with Herald
Haus brewer Jeff Macdonald I
sensed that a flurry of renovations
and other activities is happening, as the
building gets readied for big changes ahead.
Macdonald is planning
to steer away from IPAs
and sour beers, and
towards the classic flavours
of Cologne and Munich.
A pilot system will start things off before the
true backbone of the brewery (a larger 15-barrel
system) can come in at the end
of February. The plan is to offer
beer on weekends (draught
only) until capacity can support
retail, and running more days
per week. Enjoying a beer
while overlooking the newly
renovated Stratford Market Square is something
to look forward to. It’s reasonable to expect the
brewery to be at full production in May.
Business partners Kelsey Watkinson
and Nigel Curley are also at a midway
point. They decided to join forces
after touring a site and seeing
an opportunity to get a foothold
through teamwork. The kitchen
and vegan bakery is already open
and drawing in the hungry and the
health-conscious from along London’s busy
Hyde Park thoroughfare. Lengthier timelines
for the brewery approval mean the thirsty will
have to wait, for now. The anticipation will be
worth it for those in search of truly vegan brews.
Though most beer is already vegan, it does mean
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
avoiding honey or lactose, something Curley
views as a window into creativity rather than a
constraint. The kitchen side of the business will
be an inspiration, he says, with flavours from
herbs and spices to draw from.
Opening up a business like this is not like
turning on a light switch. It is more like trying
to keep the lights on while finding your way
towards the full expression of your idea. It is
almost impossible for a
brewery to immediately
be open every day, fully
stocked with beer, and
offering all of the things
that are in the owner’s
heart and business plan. This is the stage of
yet more breweries in the area —
newly open, and building up
the experiences they offer.
Storm Stayed and Rusty
Wrench breweries are both
at this stage right now,
making a go of it in London’s
Wharncliffe Coves, and downtown
Strathroy respectively.
Storm Stayed partner
Michael Naish was
quick to answer when
I asked him about
the vision for the
space: less a production facility and more a
neighbourhood gathering space. “The people
that come in are really happy
to have something in their
neighbourhood.” This sort of
response has been rewarding
to hear early on.
Rusty Wrench founder
Chris Traczuk shares the
same mix of excitement and exhaustion
that I detected in Michael’s voice. Chris
experienced a start similar to many other
brewers — a knack for home brewing
that quickly became something
much more. “A hobby became
a passion,” explained Traczuk,
fresh off his first Saturday night.
Strathroy residents are also happy
to have a local brewery. Rusty
Wrench, on Front Street, offers a
place with “no TVs, no distractions,” a social
space where you can “park your butt and you
don’t know who you’ll meet.”
The bar features two lines, with a planned
expansion to eight lines and the addition of
a retail space pending additional approvals.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
January/February 2018 | 51
Herald Haus
21 Marketplace, Stratford
www.heraldhaus.com
Dundas and Sons Brewing Company
TBA, on Facebook
AARON BROWN is a 10-year-plus veteran of the beer
industry and the founder of Forest City Beer Fest and
Appleseed Cider Festivals. You can find him at his local
pub or www.forestcitybeerfest.com
Curley Brewing Co., which includes a kitchen and vegan
bakery, is now open on Hyde Park Road.
Traczuk is not only brewing beer — the Rusty
Wrench line-up also includes kombucha.
There are many new breweries opening
in the area. Stay tuned to social media
for updates on launch parties and grand
openings.
Storm Stayed Brewing Company
196 Wharncliffe Road South, London
www.stormstayed.com
Curley Brewing Company
1700 Hyde Park Road, London
www.curleybrewing.com
Rusty Wrench Brewing Co.
9 Front Street West, Strathroy
www.rustywrench.ca
FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED • PROUDLY BREWED IN LONDON
1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES

52 | January/February 2018
Wine
D’Ont Poke the Bear
Two Doyens of Canadian Wine Team Up
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
by GARY KILLOPS
In 2005 the von Teichman family sold its
interest in Canada’s largest VQA winery,
Pelee Island. In 2006 Allan Jackson sold
his interest in Jackson Triggs. Jackson
and winemaker Andrew von Teichman
(who had grown up working at the
family-owned business) teamed
up to create Generations Wine
Company in 2009.
Generations Wine
Company is a virtual winery
that sells wine under the
Union Wines label. This
virtual concept is one with
no vineyards, no winery,
and no equipment.
Grapes are sourced from
Ontario growers and the
wine is produced at an
existing winery. This allows Jackson and von
Teichman to offer premium wines without all
the costly equipment. Their vision for Union
Wines is in the art of blending multiple grape
varieties to create consistent, reliable,
award winning wines.
Allan Jackson and Andrew von Teichman
were tossing around an idea of creating
another label with a wine that is truly
Canadian, said von Teichman. “A wine that
captures who we are: polite until poked,
proud, humble, fiery when called upon, yet
cheeky, playful and down-to-earth. A bear
signifies so much of who we are as Canadians,
and was the ideal icon for our new
wine.”
The new wine branding is
called “D’Ont Poke the Bear.”
The bear on the labels is
wearing an eye patch. Andrew
von Teichman wore a patch
in grade one because of a
medical condition. As a
result, he was bullied — a
victim of name-calling,
physical threats and
exclusion from games
in the schoolyard. The
bullying has had a life-long effect. The
pestering ended the day young von Teichman
was jumped from behind, but ended up
getting the upper-hand in the scuffle. This was
his own D’Ont Poke the Bear experience.
Andrew von Teichman said, “In retrospect,
being the youngest kid in the class as well
a nerd put a target on my back for bullying,
until I had my own D’Ont Poke the Bear
experience!” This happened circa 1960,
before bullying was generally condemned as
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unacceptable behaviour.
While working on the
project, Allan Jackson
mentioned that he too
had been a victim of
bullying. When they
discovered their mutual
interest in discouraging
Allan Jackson bullying, the cause
became a natural one to
link to the new brand of wines.
The name came about by accident. They
were discussing the label with their designer,
D’Ont Poke The Bear VQA
White Blend (LCBO#: 518753,
$14.95) — A refreshing blend of
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and
5% riesling. Dry, aromatic and
tropical fruit notes, lively and
refreshing. An affordable
go-to wine that will
please most white wine
drinkers.
D’Ont Poke The Bear
VQA Red Blend
(LCBO #518746,
$14.95) — A smooth
red blend of
cabernet sauvignon
and baco noir. This
dry, medium bodied wine offers
ripe, fresh red and blue fruit
notes. It’s an easy-going blend,
unpretentious, a perfect partner
with fireplaces, friends, and will
enhance anything on the grill.
Bring your Eatdrink Magazine to Burning
Kiln for a complimentary ‘tasting flight’
Retail
Boutique
& Tasting
Bar
who is French, lives in Spain and uses
English as his third language. They used
the expression “don’t poke the bear” during
the meeting. Once they explained it to the
designer, they agreed to use the name.
The spelling “D’Ont Poke the Bear” was
originally a spelling mistake
printed on the concept
art that they were sent,
with the apostrophe
in the wrong spot.
Andrew explains
“We thought it was
a brilliant, disruptive
mistake that called out
Ontario” and they
Andrew von Teichman
1709 Front Road,
St Williams, ON
burningkilnwinery.ca
(519) 586-9858

54 | January/February 2018
decided to keep the spelling. “When we decided
on anti-bullying awareness as our social
responsibility goal for D’Ont Poke the Bear
wines, we searched for charities to support,
but couldn’t find one that was a slam dunk. So
we created Friends First to act as an extension
of our brand and [to promote] anti-bullying
awareness.”
Von Teichman states “we are raising money
and awareness for anti-bullying, with proceeds
from every bottle we sell going to Friends
First.” (www.friendsfirst.ca)
The first two wines were released to the
LCBO last summer and within the first seven
weeks they had sold out of what was supposed
to be a year’s worth of wine. To keep up with
demand, more wine is being bottled, with
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
plans to have a good supply of each available
in most LCBO stores in January.
We’ve all been involved in or witnessed
bullying. Allan Jackson and Andrew von
Teichman invite you to speak out against
bullying and share your story on your
social platform, and help others build the
courage to do the same using the hashtag
#dontpokebears. You can also find hats and
shirts on the website (www.dontpokethebear.
com) with the proceeds going to Friends First
Foundation.
GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who
loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his
tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com
Spirits
Winter Warmers
Whisky, Haggis, and Some Poetry
By JANE ANTONIAK
Haggis is one of those love-it-orhate-it
foods. But if you love it, or
would like to give it a try, the best
time to enjoy haggis and spirits is
in January. If your roots link back to Scotland,
you will know to set aside time for a wee dram
of Scotch on January 25, to celebrate the
birthday of poet Robert Burns. Even if
you don’t have an ounce of Scottish
blood in your veins, you can still
enjoy some Burns poetry while
sipping the nectar of the gods. At
the very least, you could hum along
to Auld Lang Syne, a popular Burns
poem made famous by London’s own
Guy Lombardo.
Scotch whisky can be single malt
or a blend of several whiskies made at
the same distillery. The ingredients are simple:
water, malted barley, sometimes some other
grains, yeast and spirit caramel. In Canada
there is plenty of rye whisky, which is made
using water and at least 51% rye grain mash.
More distilleries are emerging in Canada, and
Poet Robert Burns
many are producing whisky made from rye,
malted rye and corn.
Whisky Nights
The Waltzing Weasel pub in north London
has been holding Scotch whisky tastings
and Burns suppers in their upstairs loft
for 20 years. The cozy room holds
32 people who meet once a month
from fall to spring to sample three
different Scotch whiskies as chosen
by proprietor Mike McCoubrey and
his colleague Eddie Sumpter. They
chat about the whiskies while guests
enjoy drinking them along with a pub
supper, a pint of beer and then a sip of
the quaich — a special large cup that
contains a mixture of the remains of
the three bottles.
“I think the whisky nights are popular
because they are fun, informative and give
people an opportunity to try the whiskies
before they buy them,” says McCoubrey.
Each January the Weasel holds at least two

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Mike McCoubrey (right), owner of the Waltzing Weasel,
enjoys a glass of Scotch with Ed Sumpter
Burns nights. This year’s are on January 24
and 25 (the 25th is already sold out). Burns
poetry is recited with such passion that it can
bring a tear, a laugh, or a confused nod from
those gathered.
Consider this verse as you sip your
Scotch whisky:
O thou, my muse! guid auld Scotch drink!
Whether thro’ wimplin worms thou jink,
Or, richly brown, ream owre the brink,
In glorious faem,
Inspire me, till I lisp an’ wink,
To sing thy name!
— Robert Burns (1759-1796)
Sumpter says he has sampled around 200
different whiskies from many countries
including Scotland, Ireland, Sweden, India and
Japan. After much consideration he lays out
his top three, with a few comments:
Glendronach 15-Year-Old Revival:
1 beautiful sherry notes, as aromatic as a
cognac, nice breakfast Scotch
Talisker 10-Year-Old Single Malt
2 Scotch Whisky: peaty, smoky, powerful,
nice with cacao, evening drink
Redbreast 12-year-old Irish whiskey:
3 beautiful complex whiskey thanks to
malted and unmalted barley mash, sundowner
for sure.
Sumpter has led more than 50 Burns suppers
across Ontario. Most venues have an elaborate
menu and entertainment. The meal will usually
be three courses: cock-a-leekie soup, (chicken
and leek), roast beef, haggis, and laced trifle for
January/February 2018 | 55
dessert. There will be music, dancers, a singer,
a bagpiper, a humorous toast to the lads and
lassies, a short bio of Burns, and of course
someone to recite Burn’s poetry.
“Even though few fully understand Burn’s
dialect, seeing guys sporting skirts, tartan
of all colours, formal dress, and dinner piped
in, stabbed with a knife while the owner
chants some weird rhyme in a foreign tongue
combines to create a unique event,” he says.
“Canadians (and Americans) are hungry
for culture. While St. Paddy’s is a drinkfest,
the Scottish offering is a more rounded and
unique offering of cultural entertainment. On
a personal note, it is a reminder of the bond
I have to my countrymen (and ladies), my
humble beginning in life in Scotland and my
historic bloodline,” says Sumpter fondly.
Whisky Cocktails
While whisky nights are for sipping single
malts, there are also classic whisky cocktails
which are simple to make at home.
Rusty Nail
2 ounces of whisky
¼ ounce of Drambuie
Rob Roy
2 ounces of whisky
1 ounce of sweet vermouth
2 dashes of Angostura bitters
In the summer of 2017 Wayne Gretzky Distillery
opened a tasting room, a tasting bar and began
to offer tours of the new facility in Niagara-onthe-Lake.
It is the first company to combine rye
whisky and wine tasting in one place. The grain
comes from Brant Flour Mills, which is a tribute
to Brantford, Gretzky’s hometown. The distillery
is centred around a man-made pond,
shaped like a hockey rink, which
is converted for ice skating in the
winter. This is the perfect setting for
sipping No. 99 Canadian rye whisky
finished in red wine casks.
Zac Kvas is the resident
mixologist and he leads a
Cocktails 101 seminar. This
45-minute class includes a
demonstration of how to
smoke rye whisky, muddle,
shake and stir it, as well as
how to make large round ice
balls which melt more slowly,
releasing water gently into
the alcohol. During the class,

56 | January/February 2018
participants make and consume rye whisky
and wine-based spirits cocktails. This one is
delightful after partaking in winter sports:
The Espresso After Eight
1½ oz. whisky cream liqueur
2 oz. chocolate espresso simple syrup
¾ oz. Vidal Spirit
3 drops of mint tincture (extract)
¼ tube of Ms. Betters Bitters OR 1 egg white
Garnish: mint leaf
Wet shake (with ice) then dry shake to further agitate
and smoothen
Note: the egg white is not necessary, but makes it
frothier.
While at the Gretzky Distillery try some
of the slightly sweetened popcorn with your
tastings. For a full meal, it is a short walk to the
Trius restaurant next door. The chef at Trius
also sends over food pairings to Gretzky’s “The
Office” which is a glass-walled tasting room for
14 that overlooks the hockey rink.
The bar at Gretzky’s offers “elevated
cocktails” in the $24 to $32 price range, which
are very entertaining to watch being made.
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Zac Kvas shakes up
The Espresso After
Eight at Wayne Gretzky
Distillery. Photos:
Bruce Fyfe
The smoked Gretzky
Manhattan with
cedar and pine aromas is especially delicious.
Slàinte mhath!
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
January/February 2018 | 57
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58 | January/February 2018
Various Musical Notes
Warm-Up Acts
Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
By GERRY BLACKWELL
Winter is long in these parts, and
cold. Me, I’m off to warmer
climes. If you have to stay, here’s
consolation. There’s a stellar
line-up of live music events around London
this season. All held in warm places.
Kick off the month with a mini music
fest at Aeolian Hall on Saturday, January 13
(7/8 p.m., $25/$30). The headliner is multiaward-winning
London rocker Sarah Smith,
formerly of The Joys. This concert will be
a little different given the presence of The
Borderlands Ensemble, a London-based
chamber orchestra led by Igor Saika and
Jason Stanford. Intriguing. Rounding out
the evening: husband-and-wife folk duo The
Marrieds.
Then transport yourself to sultry New
Orleans for a rousing concert by the Uptown
Dixieland Jazz Band, presented by London
Jazz Society — Sunday, January 14 at the
Shrine Centre Hall (1/2 p.m., $6 members/$12
non-members). Sure to clear the head and
raise the spirits.
Magisterra Soloists is an interesting new
classical chamber orchestra in town, founded
in 2015 by German-born violinist Annette-
Barbara Vogel. It plays classics and modern
works, including commissions from Canadian
composers, and runs an educational program.
On Thursday, January 18, Magisterra presents
Entartete Musik: Music of the Holocaust at
Magisterra Soloists
Museum London (7 p.m., $10-$30), part of
its Magisterra at the Museum series. Next,
and last, in the series: Vienna, a program of
chamber works by Mozart, Bruckner and Gal,
Thursday, March 8.
On Saturday, January 20, do your rock ‘n’
roll duty and drive, carefully, to Chatham, to
see what’s become of Canadian rock icon Kim
Mitchell. Spoiler alert: he’s not as hairy, but
still creates that buzz, buzz, buzz. Mitchell
plays Chatham’s Capitol Theatre (8 p.m., $40-
$50). Go on, relive your youth.
Kim Mitchell
Or, take in Canadian bluegrass masters
New Cumberland at Chaucer’s upstairs, same
night (7:30 p.m., $20/$25). New Cumberland is
five seasoned multi-instrumentalists playing
a lively bluegrass take on various roots music
styles. (Preview: goo.gl/mBRDe1).
On Monday, January 22, country bad
boys the James Barker Band with special
guest Meghan Patrick are at London’s newest
(sort of) concert venue, the London Concert
Theatre — aka Cowboys Ranch (7 p.m.,
$25). It’s part of the band’s Game On tour,
promoting the April 2017 album. (The single
Chills hit number one on Canadian country
charts earlier this year.) It should be a hoot.
(Preview: goo.gl/841diw.)

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Western University had a long history
with Gilbert & Sullivan operettas, dating back
to the 1950s at least. The tradition has been
revived. Students from the Faculty of Music’s
opera program are doing Pirates of Penzance at
the Paul Davenport Theatre (Music Building)
on January 26 and 27 and February 2 and 3
(8 p.m., $30/$20), and February 4 (2 p.m.).
Expect much silliness, gaudy sets and rousing,
catchy tunes.
Led by pianist Jorge Betancourt (the son
of one of Cuba’s best-known musicians) and
featuring some of Toronto’s top Cuban players,
Café Cubano is one of the most in-demand
bands on the city’s Latin American music
scene. In keeping with the musical culture of
Cuba, Café Cubano incorporates a touch of
social satire and political commentary while
evoking the spirit of Havana’s legendary dance
clubs. Authentic Nicaraguan food also will be
available. London Music Hall, January 27, 7:00
p.m. www.sunfest.on.ca
Saturday, January 27
acher Flyer (2016)
London Music Hall, 185 Queens Ave, London
Tickets at sunfest.on.ca & londonmusichall.com
(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS)
ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new Lori students into professional music
, active musician, established in the community Cullen
New album
New album “Sexsmith Swinghammer Songs” “Under Burning Skies”
al instruction
Saturday, February 3 Friday, February 9
ounding to have gift of music for life / lifelong Laila gift of music
MAZ
ome-based environment
Trad, Jazz
Biali
& Electro
orth location, convenient to bus routes
Launching her new album
from Quebec
Thursday, March 1 Friday, March 9
ionate, kind, caring, nurturing, gentle, encouraging, understanding
All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm
nservatory Exam Preparation
Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St., London
Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long &McQuade North,
Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca
y Piano Proficiency Preparation
n Street
4022
Calidore String Quartet
On Friday, February 2, The Jeffery
Concerts brings Calidore String Quartet to
Wolf Performance Hall (8 p.m., $40/$15), a
coup. This much-praised group — The New
York Times gushed over its “deep reserves of
virtuosity and irrepressible dramatic instinct”
— will play Stories of Russia, a program of
Beethoven, Tchaikovsky and Janacek.
More music theatre? Budweiser Gardens
has Rodgers & Hammerstein’s Cinderella, part
of its Broadway in London series, February 5
and 6 (7:30 p.m., $20-$100). Pumpkin, glass
slipper, masked ball: check. The Calgary
Herald praised the “uniformly strong singing”
and sets that “dazzled.”
Sunfest brings multiple Juno-nominated
Souljazz Orchestra to Aeolian Hall on
Friday, February 9 (7/8 p.m., $28/$33).
Souljazz bills itself as “an explosive clash of
soul, jazz and tropical styles.” It has a new
album, reportedly with new sounds added to
the already eclectic repertoire. Loud fun.
Salsa Party & Dance
featuring Toronto’s
CAFÉ CUBANO
Serving Authentic Nicaraguan Food
(not included in your ticket)
World Music
&
Jazz Series
‘17 - ‘ 18
www.sunfest.on.ca
Souljazz
Orchestra
Develop skills & a love for music
PIANO LESSONS
Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher
now accepting new students
Individual Instruction for All Ages
Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging
Home-based Professional Music Studio
Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation
University Piano Proficiency Preparation
Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)
North London
bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

60 | January/February 2018
Here’s something different. Canadian
singer-songwriter Danny Michel teams
with London Symphonia for Khlebnikov,
songs and music Michel co-wrote with film
composer Rob Carli. The music is based on
Michel’s “life-changing” experience last year
as part of a crew of artists aboard the Russian
icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov navigating the
Northwest Passage. Eerily beautiful sounds.
(Preview here: goo.gl/zMKKH5.)
Uriah Heep
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
which includes a copy of the album). The music
sounds ... Rodeo-esque — not a bad thing.
Years ago, Tafelmusik Baroque
Orchestra played concerts in London
each winter. Those days, alas, are gone. But
on Friday, March 2, you can catch a miniperformance
by members of the orchestra,
along with former Orchestra London concert
master Joseph Lanza and harpsichordist
Charlotte Nediger. It’s part of the school’s
free lunchtime “Fridays @ 12:30 Concert
Series” in von Kuster Hall (Music Building).
More free Friday music: goo.gl/qzMX4Q.
Millennials rejoice. Our Lady Peace and
Matthew Good are coming to Budweiser
Gardens on Saturday, March 10 (7:30 p.m.,
$53.75-$83.75). Co-headliners. Two Canadian
pop-rockers from the 90s and early aughts,
both still gung-ho, still making melodic, edgy
music with interesting lyrics. Hard to dislike,
even for non-millennials.
Uriah Heep. There’s a name from the past.
London Music Hall has the venerable rockers
on Sunday, February 11 (7 p.m., $35). Formed
in 1969 in Britain, they have 40 million in
album sales worldwide. This band is music
history in the flesh. And never ‘umble.
Aeolian Hall has back-to-back winners
mid-month. Cowboy storyteller Corb Lund
is in for a solo show Thursday, February 15
(7/8 p.m., $35/$40). With nine studio albums,
including the well-reviewed Things That Can’t
Be Undone (2015), and multiple CCMA awards,
Lund is a major star. Then on Friday, February
16, it’s London’s own Prime Time Big Band
in a cabaret show with singer Gina Farrugia.
Come and dance the night away, or just enjoy
the swingin’
sounds.
Not Blue
Rodeo but
arguably the
next best
thing: Rodeo
front man Jim
Cuddy and his
band are at the
London Music
Hall on Friday,
February 16,
touring their
new album
Corb Lund Constellation
(7 p.m., $53.50,
Our Lady Peace
For a quieter evening: the Rolston String
Quartet with pianist Arthur Rowe at Wolf
Performance Hall, same night (8 p.m., $40/$15)
— another Jeffery Concerts offering. The
Rolstons are a young Canadian group, formed
in 2013. They’ve been described as “risk-takers”
and “vivacious.” The Rolstons are to receive the
prestigious Cleveland Quartets Award for 2018-
19. Program: Haydn, Debussy and Schumann.
Rolston
String
Quartet
See, that wasn’t so bad? And spring is almost
here.
GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance
writer.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Theatre
January/February 2018 | 61
Spotlight on Alexis Gordon
At Home on the Stage
By JANE ANTONIAK
Between her first and second auditions
at the Grand Theatre in London, a lot
happened in Alexis Gordon’s young
professional life. She went from
being a teenager with no acting training to a
three–season Stratford Festival acting company
member by the age of 27. She earned a
Bachelor of Fine Arts acting degree. And she
continued to sing her heart out, gaining growing
attention from the likes of Donna Feore,
Director and Choreographer at Stratford
Festival. Meet Alexis Gordon — our choice for
this spotlight on an up-and-coming actor.
“Alexis a huge talent! Her voice literally soars,
and she is one of those rare
actor/singers that can tell the
story no matter how difficult
the music is. She brought
warmth, charm and a great deal
of humanity to Sarah Brown in
Guys and Dolls and it was a joy
to work with her,” says Feore
of Gordon’s 2017 role in the
extended run production at
Stratford last season.
Of her breakthrough role as
Julie in Carousel at Stratford
in 2015, Gary Smith of the
Hamilton Spectator said, “she
sings with rapturous abandon.”
That same year at Stratford
Gordon also performed the
role of Sister Sophia in The
Sound of Music. She returned to the Festival in
2016 as Anne in A Little Night Music and Eagle
in The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe.
Still, her hometown stage had eluded her.
The Grand has special significance for Gordon.
It was where she saw her first professional
play — Oklahoma by the High School Project
Company. Gordon was in Grade 10 at Medway
Secondary School in Arva, minutes north of
London. “I never realized that a love of music
could translate to the stage,” she says with
a smile. She auditioned for the High School
Project without any acting experience but with
a lot of enthusiasm. Audition rejection in hand,
she joined the Original Kids Theatre Company
in London. “I had to learn to put my two left
feet in front of each other,” she says.
Besides learning the craft, Gordon also
worked as a summer camp counsellor for
Original Kids and while coaching others,
she further educated herself. Recalls Sam
Shoebottom, OKTC Director, “It was such a
joy to direct Alexis when she was in Original
Kids. She worked hard and was always
prepared when she came to rehearsal. She just
seemed at home on the stage
and would have the biggest
smile, a smile that could
light up the room, every time
she stepped onto it.”
Gordon says that her
mother, Sharon Gordon,
asked her a pivotal career
question when she was
finishing high school: did
she want to be a singer who
could act or an actor who
could sing? “She also added
to that question, please,
God, get a degree!” laughs
Gordon. She says she knew
she would always be a singer.
Alexis Gordon
She had enjoyed training
with Ken Fleet in the choir
at Medway High School and she had furthered
her vocal training with Jennifer Fagan.
As well, Gordon had studied at The Dance
Movement in London. With all this raw talent,
she headed to the University of Windsor to
learn how to put the whole package together
as an actor. From there, she landed work with
Starbright theatre company at the Victoria
Playhouse in Petrolia and took on some small
workshop roles in Toronto, which is where she
caught the eye of Stratford directors.

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62 | January/February 2018
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
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The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Besides landing full-time acting work,
Gordon has received two awards as a young
performer. She is the recipient of both the
Amy Wallis Memorial Guthrie Award from
the Stratford Festival (which recognizes an
up-and-coming actor who has a keen interest
in both classical voice and musical theatre),
and the Syd and Shirley Banks Award for
Emerging Artists, which included cash,
training and a role with The Musical Stage
Company of Toronto.
“Through it all I tell myself that there is a lot
you can get from theatre and there’s very little
you can get from theatre,” she says reflecting
on how many actors supplement their passion
with side jobs. “I really believe it’s up to you
what you can get.”
What Gordon did get was one of her
“dreams” — to act in London over the
Christmas holidays. Her Grand Theatre debut
in December 2017 was in the role of Belle in A
Christmas Carol. The spectacular production
had Gordon doing everything from rollerskating
to singing and acting in various roles.
“Alexis is a beautiful discovery to me. She
has a multitude of talents that she draws on
in this production,” says Artistic Director
Dennis Garnhum. Gordon was thrilled to work
with Garnhum, saying he brought a special
atmosphere and appreciation to rehearsals.
“He says thank you and not a lot of people
lead that way, which I love. I left the theatre
with a smile on my face.”
Gordon hopes to keep smiling in 2018 when
she returns to Stratford where she will leave
musical roles and concentrate on pure acting.
She will play Ceres in The Tempest, Virgilia
in Coriolanus, and she will appear in Napoli
Milionaria! Her ultimate goal is to follow the
example of her hero, Audra McDonald, the
six-time Tony award actor who sings and acts
on Broadway.
“My roots in London set me up,” says
Gordon. “You learn from this business. The
audition I didn’t get has made me work
harder.” Now, she thanks the Grand for
rejecting her as a young teenage wanna-be
actor, since that rejection help to set her on
the path fulfilling her acting dreams. We shall
follow with anticipation.
Dan Needles
JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.
She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,
at King’s University College in London.

64 | January/February 2018
Books
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Tugging at the Apron Strings
Apron Strings: Navigating Food and Family
in France, Italy, and China
by Jan Wong
Review by DARIN COOK
When your pedigree
includes the
Montreal
restaurateur
responsible for the first allyou-can-eat
Chinese buffet
in Canada, it may seem as
if the world could be your
smorgasbord. But all Jan
Wong wanted was a simple
culinary journey with her
son before he left home to
start his own adult career
(most likely continuing in
his grandfather’s footsteps
in the food industry). Jan’s son,
Sam, was an aspiring chef and his addiction to
YouTube cooking videos was the twenty-first
century equivalent of his mother’s fondness
for pouring over cookbooks. For Jan, this
seemed a perfect pairing for the premise of
her book Apron Strings: Navigating Food and
Family in France, Italy, and China (Goose Lane,
2017, $24.95) as she set out to experience
home cooking in three countries of culinary
renown. The tricky part was warming Sam to
the idea of spending so much time with his
mother, quite possibly sharing a room for
the duration, most likely eating
267 meals together. He did agree
to go and the overlapping themes
of Jan’s roles as doting mother
and intrepid journalist become as
central to the book as her love of
cooking and eating.
Jan and Sam stayed in the
homes of locals who agreed to
take them in. The generosity,
hospitality, and collaboration
Jan Wong
of these families were
remarkable, as they went
about their lives with
this mother and son in
tow revealing how market
trips, kitchen prep, and
mealtimes govern the daily
routines of three different
cultures. There were very
few formal sessions in the
process; most of the learning
came from impromptu
lessons from household help
or family members sharing
whichever cultural specialities
were on the family menus,
including béchamel sauce in
France, risotto in Italy, and egg-drop soup
in China. The Wongs cooked alongside their
hosts, sometimes pulling together meals on
their own and peppering in some Western
influences (Sam had earned his chops by
working in seven restaurants back home and
he was bombarded with requests to bake
bread in China, which he obliged many times
over, even though bread has never been a part
of Chinese cuisine).
Apron Strings is sprinkled with aspects of
Jan’s personal, professional, and
family life that make the book
interesting enough, but it is the
cast of characters she and Sam
live with — their range of talents
and backgrounds — that make
her story come alive. The French
family, with Jan and Sam already
taking up space in their home,
selflessly had a revolving door
that took in refugees as well. In

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Italy, they stayed in a farmhouse on a winery
and were inspired by many generations of
the family’s old world traditions. The Chinese
households that took them in were within the
wealthy echelons of Shanghai where live-in
maids did most of the cooking instruction for
Jan and Sam.
With a foodie’s sensibilities and a reporter’s
demand for detail, Jan’s prose reads like a
poetic collection of recipes, capturing the
local ingredients, kitchen techniques, and
food rules that unofficially govern different
cultures. Even though her goal was to simply
learn home cooking from ordinary families,
it is her journalistic eye that took her beyond
the accumulation of family recipes by delving
into the effects that economics, politics, and
history have on the food in the regions they
visited. Jan remarks on a few similarities
between countries when she writes: “As we
would see on our journey through three
nations, kitchen equipment was surprisingly
crappy. For centuries, people with the greatest
cuisines in the world had been turning out
meals with a fork or a pair of chopsticks.
Kitchenware shops in France and Italy were
few and far between and shockingly expensive
January/February 2018 | 65
— perhaps because they rarely deigned to
stock anything made in China. As for China,
they prepared everything with a cleaver, a
chopping board, and chopsticks.” But the
silver lining to this observation was: “Their
gadgets, or lack thereof, taught me that you
didn’t need stuff to prepare a good meal.”
Apron Strings is an entertaining escape into
global cuisine at its roots in home kitchens.
Even though they were gaining valuable
firsthand experience in foreign kitchens,
Jan and Sam also ate — a lot. Food coma is
a phrase that Jan is not shy about using. The
meals that are laid out for them are sensual
teasers for the readers who want to dive right
in with them; even though we cannot make
that physical connection over the food, the
emotional bond between mother and son,
along with the relationships between the
Wongs and their host families, tug at the
heart strings that are clearly attached to the
apron strings.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer residing in Chatham-
Kent who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting
the bookstores and restaurants of London.
WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!
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Contest ends December 28, 2017. Complete details online.
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66 | January/February 2018
Recipes
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
Toronto Eats
100 Signature Recipes from the City’s Best Restaurants
By Amy Rosen
Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN
If you are reading this,
congratulations, you’ve
survived the holiday
season. The halls have been
undecked and the last Fa has
been la la la’d. The new year
came in with a bang and most
of my resolutions have gone
out with a whimper. There are
a few crumbly cookies left
in the tin. Essentially, it’s all
over but the stretchy pants.
A few days after the sugar
starts to dissolve from my system,
I realize that what I’m really craving now is
something savoury and not too complicated
(but a little more sophisticated than chocolate
reindeer). Most of all, I want something that
someone else has cooked.
I was delighted to find Amy Rosen’s Toronto
Eats: 100 Signature Recipes from the City’s Best
Restaurants (Figure 1 Publishing; 2017; $37.95).
It’s a divine collection of recipes adapted from
some of Toronto’s favourite eateries. There’s
an introduction to each restaurant written by
Rosen, an award winning journalist and food
writer. The recipes are accompanied by Ryan
Szulc’s stunning photography. You can make
these delicious dishes at home or you can go
to Toronto and taste them in their place of
origin. This year I can have my
recipes and eat them too. Happy
holidays indeed.
The recipes of Toronto Eats
reflect the diversity of the city
itself, and range from simple
salads to decadent desserts,
through everything in between.
I find most of the dishes to
be wonderfully unfussy. No
bacon foams or tomato water,
no acquiring new appliances to
cook with. Most of these
recipes seem like dishes
that the chefs might make
for themselves after work.
Excellent ingredients,
beautifully prepared, and
made to be enjoyed with
friends.
The first picture I saw was
of Pecorino Focaccia Bianca
from Blackbird Baking Co.,
and I was instantly hooked.
I do enjoy baking but I rarely
venture into the more complex
breads. I will definitely make an
exception for anything with most of a cup of
Pecorino Romano cheese on it.
Every so often I decide to try making rabbit,
but I never know what to do with it once I
get it home. Rabbit with Olives, Honey, and
Vinegar from Leña Restaurante intrigued me.
Each ingredient in the list made me think,
“No, that can’t be right… Wait, that might
work… Actually, that would be perfect.” I have
spent an hour trying to decide if those things
“go” together and I can’t wait to try it. I’m now
convinced it will be great. Sweet, sour, hot and
salty. You can’t really go wrong with that.
It took me an embarrassingly long time to
realize that Maple Sagamite with Vanilla Goat
Yogurt and Haskap Jam from
Loka was a dessert. I had never
heard of sagamite (a type of
ground corn) or haskap berries.
It looks rich and decadent and
pretty much put an end to my
‘no more sweets’ resolution. Oh
well, there’s always next year.
The winter is long so, if you
just can’t get enough of Toronto
Amy Rosen Eats, you might try finding a
copy of Rosen’s previous book,

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Toronto Cooks; 100 Signature Recipes from the
City’s Best Restaurants (Figure 1 Publishing;
2014; $37.95). Sadly, it’s now out of print but
worth hunting for.
So while I’m recovering from the long
holiday season, trading my eggnog for herbal
tea and waiting out the bad weather days, I’ll
also be flipping through both Toronto Eats and
January/February 2018 | 67
Toronto Cooks. Maybe I’ll plan some cooking,
or maybe I’ll just plan a trip to the city. I
wonder how many of these places I can visit in
a weekend?
TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in
London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com
Recipes are from the book Toronto Eats: 100 Signature Recipes from the City’s Best Restaurants, by Amy
Rosen, © 2017. Published by Figure 1 Publishing. Reprinted with permission of the publisher.
Rabbit with Olives, Honey, and Vinegar
Lena Restaurante
Serves 6–8
2–3 lbs fresh rabbit, separated into fore quarter,
hind quarter, and saddle
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying
1 Tbsp toasted fennel seeds, lightly crushed1 tsp
chili flakes 1
bulb fennel, diced and fronds reserved
1 Spanish onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 rib celery, diced
4 bay leaves
1/3 cup honey
1 cup mixed olives
3/4 cup sherry vinegar
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 Tbsp good-quality dried oregano
2 cups good-quality chicken stock
3 cups tomato passata, or goodquality
crushed strained tomatoes
Fresh noodles or cooked polenta, to
serve
Generously season rabbit with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in a large casserole dish
on medium. Add rabbit, skin-side down, and
sear for 5 to 7 minutes, or until golden brown.
Flip and sear for another 5 to 7 minutes. (Work
in batches to avoid overcrowding, if necessary.)
Transfer rabbit to a plate and set aside.
Place the casserole dish back on the stovetop,
reduce heat to medium-low, and add fennel
seeds and chili flakes. Cook for 1 minute, until
fragrant. Add fennel, onions, garlic, celery,
and bay leaves, and cook for another 3 minutes.
(Add a little more olive oil, if necessary,
to help the browning.) Add honey, increase
heat to medium-high, and cook for another 2
to 3 minutes. (You’ll smell the caramel as the
honey reduces.) Add olives, stir, and cook for
another 2 to 3 minutes. Add vinegar, paprika,
and oregano and cook for another minute.
Return rabbit to the dish, add chicken stock and passata,
and bring to a simmer on medium-low heat. Cook, partially
covered, for another 1 1/2 hours. If the ragu looks too
soupy, remove the lid and cook until you have the desired
consistency. If it’s too dry, add an extra splash of broth,
cover, and simmer away. Season with salt and pepper.
Chop reserved fennel fronds and use to finish the rabbit.
Serve with fresh noodles or polenta.

68 | January/February 2018
Pecorino Focaccia Bianca
Blackbird Baking Co.
Makes 1 (10-inch) focaccia
2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
1 tsp granulated sugar
½ tsp instant yeast
¾ cup grated Pecorino Romano
1½ cups water
Olive oil, for greasing
Coarse sea salt
4 Tbsp chopped mixed herbs (e.g., rosemary,
parsley, and oregano)
In a large bowl, combine flour, salt, sugar, yeast, and
Pecorino Romano. Stir well. Add water and mix by hand
until combined, then mix for another minute. (The dough
will be very wet and sticky.) Lightly oil a large bowl, place
dough in it, and cover. Set aside for 9 to 12 hours, until
dough has more than doubled in size and is covered with
bubbles.
Generously dust a clean work surface with flour and use
a bowl scraper (or rubber spatula) to scrape dough out
of the bowl in one piece. Using floured hands, gently fold
dough from the edges to the
centre to make a loose ball. Brush
with olive oil and sprinkle sea salt over the
surface. Cover and set aside for 1 to 2 hours, until
almost doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 450°F and place a rack in the middle
slot. Place a pizza stone on the rack to warm.
Meanwhile, generously dust a pizza peel or baking sheet
with flour and place dough in the middle. Working quickly
to prevent dough from sticking to the peel, use your
fingers to dimple the dough in an outward motion, making
it an even thickness across the peel. Continue until it
reaches a 10-inch diameter. Drizzle with olive oil, top with
chopped herbs, and sprinkle generously with additional
sea salt.
Shake dough onto the baking stone and bake for 20
minutes, or until crust is a deep golden colour. Transfer
focaccia to a cooling rack and let sit for a few minutes
before cutting.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
Maple Sagamite
with Vanilla Goat Yogurt and Haskap Jam
January/February 2018 | 69
Loka
Makes 6 ramekins or 1 (9 x 13-inch) pan
HASKAP JAM INGREDIENTS
4 cups haskap berries and residual juice
1/3 cup + 2 Tbsp water
2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise and seeds
scraped
HASKAP JAM METHOD
In a large saucepan on medium-high heat, combine all
ingredients and bring to a boil. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes,
until reduced by half and jammy.
VANILLA GOAT YOGURT INGREDIENTS
2 cups goat yogurt
1/3 cup + 2 Tbsp whipping
(35%) cream
1/4 cup icing sugar
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
VANILLA GOAT YOGURT
METHOD
In a large bowl, combine all
ingredients and mix well until
smooth.
SAGAMITE PUDDING
INGREDIENTS
2 cups whipping (35%)
cream
2 cups best-quality maple
syrup
3/4 cup unsalted butter,
room temperature
1 cup granulated white
sugar
2 eggs
1 cup sagamite (coarsely
ground white corn)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
Butter, for greasing
SAGAMITE PUDDING
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a medium saucepan on
high heat, combine cream and
maple syrup and bring to a
boil. Set aside.
Place butter in the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with a paddle
attachment and mix at medium
speed for 1 minute, until creamy. Add sugar and beat for
another minute, until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time,
until well incorporated.
In a separate bowl, combine sagamite, flour, baking powder,
and salt. Add to the bowl of the stand mixer and mix
for 1 minute, until a soft dough forms. Divide dough into
greased ramekins or baking dish. Divide cream among the
ramekins or spread evenly on top of baking dish. Place on
a baking sheet and bake for 12 to 14 minutes (add 15 to 20
minutes extra time if baking in a pan), until a toothpick
comes out clean when inserted into the centre.
Serve with whipped goat yogurt and haskap jam or your
favourite preserve.

70 | January/February 2018
The Lighter Side
The Scottish Meat Pie
that Wasn’t
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag
By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY
Some years ago we met our new
neighbours, a lovely couple. “Mike”
and “Mary” had recently emigrated
from Scotland. After a few visits my
husband invited them to come for dinner.
They accepted, and asked if it could be a truly
Canadian dinner. My sarcastic response to
my husband was “so
what should I cook
— poutine, peameal
bacon, maple syrup,
butter tarts and
Nanaimo bars?” After
careful planning I was
able to conjure up a
fairly “Canadian” menu
of chicken breasts with
a maple syrup glaze,
PEI potatoes, veggies
and, yes, butter tarts and Nanaimo bars for
dessert. They loved it, and asked for recipes.
A couple of weeks later they said that they
would like to reciprocate, by making us a
traditional Scottish dinner. I was excited, as
I love to try new dishes and add new recipes
to my repertoire, especially if they have an
ethnic twist. On the other hand, I was a bit
apprehensive as my first thought was of
haggis, and I hadn’t mustered up the courage
to try haggis at that point in my life.
After arriving at their house we chatted
while dinner cooked. Mike offered us “a wee
nip.” I had no idea that a “wee nip” was a
drink, but I think maybe that “wee nip” helped
us with what lay ahead.
The table was set and dinner was ready. Mary
served the plates and gave us a description of
what we were going to satisfy our palates with.
The menu included Scottish meat pie, mashed
potatoes, mushy peas, and onion gravy. I
suddenly had wonderful thoughts of my
childhood and how I loved onion gravy. I am
the only person in our house who likes mushy
peas so that, too, was exciting.
We sat down to plates of the meat pie
and potatoes smothered in the onion gravy
and a very generous helping of mushy peas
on the side. Mary was suddenly confessing
that she had planned to make the meat pie
from scratch, but she had found the loveliest
looking pies at the grocery store. She had
her fingers crossed
that they would
be as good as her
homemade pies.
As I went to take a
bite of the meat pie in
gravy I noticed a look
of horror on Mike’s
face as he choked and
grabbed his glass of
water. “Canadians
don’t know how to
make meat pie; put your forks down.”
Mary had gone to the grocery store and
asked for mince to make pies. It was close to
Christmas so the grocery attendant suggested
that she buy the already prepared ones. The
pies were made; they just needed to be baked.
Scottish people say mince, Canadians say
hamburger. She bought the pies not knowing
that it was actually mincemeat.
We had potatoes, onion gravy and
mushy peas for the main course. Dessert
was the leftover mincemeat pie along with
homemade Spotted Dick (a British pudding
made from suet and currants) and a lot of
laughs. Our friends have moved on but the
yearly Christmas greetings always include
a comment or two on mincemeat pie with
onion gravy.
NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who
loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared
in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and
Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and
many other publications.

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine
January/February 2018 | 71
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