Eatdrink #70 March/April 2018

Issue #70 | March/April 2018 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

FREE 

The 

Women’s 

Issue 

Dedication 

Perspiration 

Motivation 

Inspiration 

Hospitality 

Alieska Robles from 

The Forest City Cookbook 

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007 

www.eatdrink.ca

2 | March/April 2018 

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UPCOMING EVENTS AT THE IDLEWYLD 

Sunday, April 1st, 2018 | 9:00am - 10:00am 

Children Easter Egg Hunt 

Children 10 and under are invited to join the annual Idlewyld Inn 

Easter Egg Hunt in our Courtyard. 

Sunday, April 1st , 2018 

Sunday Festive Easter Brunch 

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Seating start at 5:30 p.m. and end at 9:00 p.m. 

Sunday, May 13th, 2018 

Mother’s Day Dinner 

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4:30pm and 7:30pm 

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36 Grand Ave London, Ontario N6C 1K8 ~ ph 519.432.5554 

www.idlewyldinn.com

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

eatdrinkmag 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell, 

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook, Gary Killops, 

Bryan Lavery, Nancy Loucks-McSloy, 

Tracy Turlin, Sue Sutherland-Wood 

Photographers Nick Lavery, Steve Grimes 

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349 

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6 

Website 

City Media 

Printing 

Sportswood Printing 

We want your 

BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming 

events that you’d like us to share? Every 

issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 50,000 

readers across Southwestern Ontario in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca 

and/or connect directly with our 

Social Media Editor 

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

OUR COVER 

Alieska Robles, the driving 

force behind The Forest 

City Cookbook, holds a 

pineapple — a traditional 

symbol of hospitality — in 

an enthusiastic self-portrait. 

Photo by Alieska Robles 

(alieskarobles.com) 

© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink 

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission 

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000 

issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed 

in the information, content and/or advertisements published in 

Eatdrink or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not 

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes 

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 

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Contents 

Issue #70 | March/April 2018 

The Women’s Issue 

Publisher’s Notes 


A Challenging Task We’re Pleased 

to Take On 

By CHRIS MCDONELL 

8 

Spotlight 

Women with a Seat at the Table 

Six of Stratford's Culinary Influencers 

By TANYA CHOPP 

10 

Grow... Cook... Host... 

Five Key Women 

from Huron and Lambton Counties 

By JANE ANTONIAK 

16 

London Women in Food 

Culinary, Hospitality and Agricultural 

Industry Drivers 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

22 

Road Trips 

A Love Affair 

with Southampton 

By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY 

34 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

38 

50 

10 

53 

56 

34 

Various Musical Notes 

Spring is in the Air 

Upcoming Highlights 

on the Music Scene 

By GERRY BLACKWELL 

50 

Theatre 

A Most Auspicious Star 

Martha Henry Takes on Prospero 

at Stratford Festival 


53 

Books 

Coming to My Senses 

by Alice Waters 

Review by DARIN COOK 

56 

Recipes 

Farm to Chef 

by Lynn Crawford 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

58 

The Lighter Side 

The Cup that Cheers 

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD 

62 

Wine 

For The Love of Wine 

A Conversation with Winemaker 

Allison Christ 

By GARY KILLOPS 

48 

48 

58 

62


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Publisher’s Notes 



A Challenging Task We’re Pleased to Take On 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

There has not been a single issue of 

Eatdrink ever published that didn’t 

include important contributions 

from women. For over a decade, in 

the stories we share, and behind the scenes, 

women’s voices, talents and values have 

helped shape the magazine. That has been 

entirely intentional. This begs the question: 

Then why this special issue? 

While this idea has floated around here for 

years, it was the closure of the Women’s Lifestyle 

Show (WLS) in 2016 that prompted me to 

act. For many years, Eatdrink helped coordinate 

the Cooking Stage at WLS, and that March 

weekend helped define our March/April publication. 

All good things do end, but when WLS 

ran its course, we really missed it in 2017. 

Our first Women’s Issue was planned for 

2018, timed to coincide with International 

Women’s Day on March 8. We have 

received nothing but confirmation that 

we are on the right track. 

We discovered that 2018 marked the 

centennial anniversary of women’s suffrage 

— their right to vote — in Canada. 

The #metoo movement, The Globe & 

Mail’s “Unfounded” stories uncovering 

police dismissal of an alarming number 

of sexual assault cases without proper 

investigation, and allegations of sexual 

abuse and impropriety arising almost daily 

against high-profile figures in film, television, 

music, theatre, industry, politics and almost 

every aspect of human activity have put “women’s 

issues” on the front burner, steaming hot. 

While controversy has definitely been part of 

the conversation, I hasten to add that I believe 

this is all a good thing. I won’t steal the thunder 

from the women who speak on the following 

pages, but — clearly — our society is reconciling 

longstanding problems that should never be 

tolerated by good people. We should do better, 

we can do better, we are doing better. Eatdrink 

applauds that, with an issue meant to celebrate 

gains that women have made, and acknowledge 

that the world of food and drink that we are 

immersed in here is not immune to problems of 

inequality and disadvantages for women. 

Of course, we immediately had what I would 

call “a good problem” on our hands. We are a 

small magazine with finite resources, and there 

is no way for us to muster the required pages 

to celebrate all the women we started listing. I 

have no doubt we could fill every page just with 

the names. So this is just a start, a new tradition 

that we will look forward to every year. 

We’ve done our best to be representative of 

so many groups, but I think of women such as 

Nancy Hotson, proprietor of Stratford’s oldest 

coffee shop, The Buzz Stop on York St., 

and purveyor of (shhh!) fine cigars. And 

the myriad longtime servers keeping a 

smile on their face night after night. 

We’re missing those who are somewhat 

backstage, the glue that holds so many 

businesses together while hardly being 

noticed. I will work on a way to celebrate 

them better next year. 

The next question regarded who to 

put on the cover. I’m happy that the 

honour fell to Alieska Robles, whose 

energy for The Forest City Cookbook 

(excitedly anticipated for release later 

this spring) has galvanized London’s 

culinary community this year. Alieska, 

who is a passionate proponent of local cuisine, 

holds the centuries-old symbol of hospitality: 

a pineapple. We all are aware that pineapples 

do not grow in Ontario! The tradition, I 

understand, arose because this fruit was so 

delicious but rare that its presentation was 

a sign that no expense or trouble had been 

spared by one’s host. My hope is that this issue 

speaks to that as well. We have done our best 

to support and celebrate the women in our 

community, and I hope you enjoy our efforts.

HOPE MADE DELICIOUS 

WEDNESDAY APRIL 25 

www.atasteforlife.org 

Where will you dine? 

25% of sales will be 

donated to RHAC. 

25% des ventes seront 

reversées à RHAC.


Spotlight 


Women with a Seat at the Table 

Six of Stratford’s Culinary Influencers 

Talk Food and Female Entrepreneurship 

By TANYA CHOPP 

Over the past decade Eatdrink writers 

have been informing us about the 

men and women, organizations and 

businesses that contribute to the 

culinary character of our region. 

Perhaps there’s something in the water — 

Perth County (and Stratford in particular) seems 

to have produced more than its fair share of 

successful women. Not all have achieved the 

renown of Stratford Chefs School co-founder 

Eleanor Kane, or others of her ilk. The list of 

women who have influenced and supported 

innumerable others in the culinary sphere, and 

who continue to affect culinary developments in 

the region, would be a long one. 

Eatdrink writer Tanya Chopp spoke with 

some of the women about their work, 

passions, and creativity, about gender in the 

workplace, and about their advice to anyone 

considering pursuing their own dreams. 

These interviews have been condensed and 

edited. The full conversations are available 

online at eatdrink.ca 

French, Italian and Asian influences, but 

ultimately, we serve what we want to eat, and 

aim to create big, full flavours. 

About Women in the Culinary Scene: 

Women have resilience. We can keep going 

even when it’s difficult or frustrating, and 

actually draw from it. It’s so important that 

when women are at the helm, they don’t crush 

their natural instincts and behave like they 

think men do. 

Advice: Be unrelenting. When someone 

says “No,” or “I need more information,” be 

prepared to follow through and do it. 

Jessie Votary 

Co-Owner/Co-Founder, The Red Rabbit & 

Okazu 

About Co-Owning The Red Rabbit: We built the 

Red Rabbit with our bare hands and passion. I’m 

proud that it’s a worker-owned business. We’re 

able to offer our workers competitive wages, 

benefits and year-round employment. We’re also 

very community-oriented. I’m on the BIA board, 

and we participate in a number of food related 

events for fundraising, like Lawn Summer 

Nights for Cystic Fibrosis. 

About the Food: We create with quality 

ingredients and care. We believe in integrity 

— both in the food and beverages we serve 

and how we operate. Our menu has classic 

Jessie Votary


March/April 2018 | 11 

Advice: There are two sides to successfully run 

an operation: you have to create with passion, 

but you also have to run a business. Find what 

you do, and do it well. Also, make sure you 

have a good team and look after them. 

Kristene Steed 

Kristene Steed 

Co-Owner, Rhéo Thompson Candies 

About Co-Owning Rhéo Thompson: As a 

co-owner, you wear a lot of hats. Mark looks 

after the production. He’s one of our three 

candymakers and runs the administrative 

side of the business. I look after the front 

end, including merchandising, packaging, 

procurement, HR, marketing and anything 

else public-facing. We have 27 full-time 

employees and we succeed because of all of 

their hard work. We give our best every day. 

About the Food: We produce 152 different 

types of candies and chocolates throughout 

the year. We’re creative, but we’re consistent. 

We want our products to taste like what 

people first fell in love with. The Mint 

Smoothies chocolates are incredibly popular. 

Around St. Patrick’s Day we also create Irish 

Potatoes, which have buttercream centres that 

get pressed and rolled in fresh cinnamon. 

About Women in the Culinary Scene: The 

neat part about Stratford is that there is 

an integration of both men and women in 

business. While it’s true that women are 

intuitive and empathetic, that’s not to say that 

men aren’t too. I’ve worked with wonderful 

people, of both genders, and I really value that. 

Jacqueline Barr 

Co-Owner, Chocolate Barr’s Candies 

About Co-Owning Chocolate Barr’s: We’ve 

had our business for 15 years, and work seven 

days a week. Four years ago we purchased 

and renovated our own building and I was 

able to put my stamp on it, design-wise, from 

the flow of the storefront, to the extra large 

window in the back to see the candy making, 

to the “Sweet” sign that lights up the front. 

About the Food: My husband, Derek [candy 

maker and chocolatier] will talk your ear off 

about chocolate and candy. I’ve made my 

own line of “Jack’s Barrs” that have different 

toppings. The most popular is a 70% dark 

chocolate bar with salt, pepper, almond butter 

crunch, and pecans. 

About Women in the Culinary Scene: The 

people who I admire the most are my closest 

friends, who all have three or four kids, and 

for the most part run their own businesses 

that they have also started. They make it look 

easy. My staff is the best, and we couldn’t do it 

without them. 

Advice: Owning your own business is very 

rewarding, but not for everyone. It is a seven 

days a week, 365 days a year worry. But when 

you get it right, you can be proud. 

Jacqueline Barr 

and husband Derek Barr

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Carrie Wreford 

Co-Owner, Bradshaws and Kitchen Detail 

Carrie Wreford 

About Co-Owning Bradshaws: Before 

Bradshaws I was a graphic designer and my 

husband Jeremy was a set designer. At the 

company my role is varied, but my primary 

focus is buying (alongside Jeremy), as well as 

marketing, social media, community outreach 

and events. 

About the Business: Our business is 123 years 

old and has been family-run for six generations 

— that’s unusual in today’s retail environment. 

We had to determine where we wanted to take 

the business and breathe life into it so it would 

remain relevant and viable for years to come. 

About Women in the Culinary Scene: When 

people talk about our store, they mention many 

of our staff as the reason why they shop here. 

Our business is run by a team of women who are 

incredible at what they do. Out of 20 of us, 17 are 

women. The women in Stratford are incredible. 

I’ve made so many incredible partnerships and 

friendships and have learned so much from 

everyone else. People [and business owners] are 

interested in collaborating. It’s very important 

for women to lift each other up and motivate 

each other and support each other. 

Advice: Put in the time and get your hands 

dirty before you jump in. Find a mentor and/ 


or people you respect and admire and find 

a way to work with them. Learn from them 

until you’re ready to create your own vision. 

Yva Santini 

Chef, Pazzo Taverna 

About Being a Chef: I started cooking and 

working in kitchens when I was very young. I’m 

going on close to 18 years in the industry now. 

I graduated from the Stratford Chef School in 

2009, and this is my eleventh year at Pazzo’s 

and my seventh year as the chef. Being part of 

a business based on people’s enjoyment is very 

complex and it’s not easy, but I know that the 

food that we’re making makes people happy 

and there’s a lot of positive feedback. 

About the Food: Our pasta program has been 

refined and expanded. I grew up in an Italian 

family and I strive to capture the essence of 

Italian culture. What we have to offer in terms 

of Italian in-house made pastas is the best in 

the city. While we are “all Italian,” we have a 

little French and Canadian influence too. During 

the later winter our menu will still be Romanfocused, 

incorporating Pecorino Romano, meat, 

eggs, rich flavours and black pepper. Marsh 

marigolds, fiddleheads and asparagus will start 

to make an appearance by early spring. 

Yva Santini


About Women in the Culinary Scene: Gender 

politics are delicate, but shouldn’t be ignored. 

I’m fortunate to have had an opportunity to 

work with very wonderful and supportive 

people, with influential men and women who 

are friends, family, and business owners. 

Advice: Respect is the number one thing. 

Respect others and respect yourself too. If 

you’re in a situation that’s not moving you 

forward, you’re not obligated to stay. 

Candice Wigan 

Co-Owner, Revival House 

On Co-Owning Revival House: After many 

years in the industry, this is a place we could 

make our own and get into what we’ve always 

wanted to. I come from a French background, 

and always dreamed of French cuisine. Revival 

House has this beautiful grandeur to it — it 

was built in 1867. Last year, we hosted 35 

weddings and 20 concerts and we have quite a 

few shows coming up this spring. 

About the Food: We change our menu ever 

four to five months and ensure it’s always 

approachable, and accessible to every price 

point — from duck confit to poutine. Chef 

Loreena Miller, a Stratford Chef School 

graduate, is open-minded and accepts 

suggestion. We grow all of the herbs in-house 

and we believe in sourcing locally. Perth County 

is so rich. As a bar chef, I also love creating 

elegant, fresh and seasonal cocktails, and wine 

is also a passion. I have my Level 1 Sommelier. 

About Women in the Culinary Scene: We 

need to surround ourselves with more women. 

I feel empowered by them and I’m always 

learning from them. I work with two strong, 

independent women: Alysha Ford, event 

coordinator, and Chef Loreena Miller. They are 

Candice Wigan 


an everyday inspiration. We teach and learn 

from one another, and don’t get off guard. 

Advice: Don’t be afraid to be calculating or to 

say “no” when something doesn’t serve you. 

It means you’re organized, and well-thoughtout. 

My mother also always said, “Make sure 

you love your job; it makes your life so much 

easier.” 

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications 

professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics 

related to local food and culture, humour and fitness. 

Read Tanya Chopp’s full interviews of " Women with a Seat 

at the Table" online at eatdrink.ca 

Serving up 

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Spotlight 

Grow... Cook... Host... 

Five Key Women from Huron & Lambton Counties 


When we went looking for leading 

women in Huron & Lambton 

Counties’ culinary community, 

we got some curious reactions. 

The fact is that women have been leaders in 

food agriculture, cuisine and hospitality in the 

area for decades. There are so many examples 

that we can’t possibly include them all. But 

let’s start at ground level, where the rich soil 

and kind winds have made Huron County 

nature’s vegetable basket. 

Jackie Rowe 

Jackie Rowe says she started as “one woman 

in the kitchen,” with a business model to 

grow, process and distribute healthy Ontario 

garlic products. “The Garlic Box name and 

idea literally sprouted from the dirt in 1997, 

as a venue to help sell and stabilize our areagrown 

garlic. During this 20-year journey, 

we have transitioned to a small enterprise 

team, which processes more than 42 different 

SKUs of product made with local garlic and 

manages multiple distribution channels. We 

retail to more than 600 stores Canada-wide,” 

says Rowe from her Hensall headquarters 

on Highway 4 north of Exeter. Hensall was 

chosen for its close proximity to the garlic 

fields and to her home farm, and for business 

reasons. “Equally important is the hub of agribusiness 

in Huron County with [affordable] 

Jackie Rowe 

taxes and good highways for transportation. 

For our value-added food business, it is the 

perfect incubating community to thrive in.” 

As an early female businessperson in 

Huron, Rowe looked a bit further than 

Huron for women mentors. She says she has 

a trusted mentor in Marilyn Rootham of 

Rootham Gourmet Preserves in Guelph. More 

recently she has been following, digitally, 

Arlene Dickinson of CBC’s Dragon’s Den who 

is, as Rowe says, “bullish on Canadian health 

and food-based companies.” 

Liz Ihrig 

Liz Ihrig, co-owner of Hessenland Country 

Inn near Zurich and St. Joseph, is an 

exceptional host/manager of the Inn’s special 

events, which also 

use the talents 

of her husband, 

chef and co-owner 

Frank Ihrig. The 

Hessenland serves 

unique wine 

dinners in the new 

vineyard, offers a 

fabulous outdoor 

Mongolian Grill 

each summer, 

and Liz and her 

team host dozens 

of weddings and 

other events 

which feature 

outstanding local 

Liz Ihrig 

food. She came to Huron from the corporate 

hotel world of Toronto, “first and foremost... 

[for] Frank” she says with a laugh. “It became 

apparent that this was not only a good move 

for my career but also to be with Frank and to 

start a life together working at Hessenland.” 

Ihrig says she has been fortunate to 

have been guided in the business by her 

mother-in-law, Christa Ihrig. Christa and


her late husband Ernst bought the Inn after 

immigrating to Canada from Germany. They 

turned it over to Liz and Frank, who have 

grown the business. Liz says she loves how 

community-minded Huron county citizens 

are. “Although it is such an expansive 

geographical area it is still a small town 

community ready to help and support you 

wherever and whenever.” Liz turns to local 

farmers for their produce and livestock, and 

also to share their knowledge. 

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh 

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh was also a 

newcomer to Huron County when she and 

her husband Ted McIntosh purchased the 

Admiral in 2005, re-opening it as The Black 

Dog Bistro. She is certainly not a newcomer 

to the culinary scene. She is the author of 

nine cookbooks, and it was cookbook writing 

that brought the couple to Huron County. 

“We came to Bayfield to research a book I 

was working on — Simply the Best: Food & 

Wine from Ontario’s Finest Inns. We didn’t so 

much choose the village of Bayfield outright 

as the building chose us. It was hard work 

but we knew exactly what we wanted and we 

didn’t deviate from that vision: hold onto the 

original character as much as possible, reclaim 

any original materials wherever we could and 

ensure that the room had warmth and the 

charm that stems from a worn, but brushed 

up, patina,” she says. 

Sloan-McIntosh (inspired by her own 

mother who was trained in England and 

worked in service as a professional cook 

and baker) established the menus for The 

Black Dog. “We like to think we take our 

inspiration from gastro-pubs in the U.K. 

but retain a thoroughly Canadian identity,” 

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh 

(with husband Ted McIntosh) 

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she says. She worked alongside her stepson 

Andrew, and kitchen staff, until she was able 

to step aside from the Bistro kitchen after 

a few years to open The Pantry. The shop 

offered a wide variety of cheeses, culinary 

supplies, fresh breads and more. Although 

very popular, it was closed to make room for 

an auxiliary kitchen for The Black Dog, which 

remains one of the most popular Bistro’s in 

Huron County. Sloan-McIntosh’s daughter 

Alysa King now runs the front-of-house for 

The Black Dog, as well as managing her own 

company, Bayfield Provisions. 

Erryn Shephard 

Erryn Shephard technically does not operate 

in Huron County, her stellar kitchen is so close 

to the boundary of Huron and Lambton that 

she merits inclusion in this article. For 13 years 

Shephard has worked diligently with her longtime 

co-chef Ben Sandwith, and with passion 

for local food, at F.I.N.E., a Restaurant While 

Erryn Shephard technically does not operate 

in Huron County, her stellar kitchen is so close 

to the boundary of Huron and Lambton that 

she merits inclusion in this article. For 13 years 

Shephard has worked diligently with her longtime 

co-chef Ben Sandwith, and with passion 

for local food, at F.I.N.E., a Restaurant on



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Shephard speaks for many when she says she 

would welcome being a mentor to others. “I am all 

for having females in this business. But it is a hard 

line ... too long hours, weekends, holidays and just 

the physical nature of it doesn’t make it the most 

attractive choice. But having done this all my life, 

it has been so rewarding, and hatching the idea of 

my own little restaurant has been amazing.” 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. She 

is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s 

University College in London. 


Highway 21 in Grand Bend. Shephard 

was raised in the area and after 

training in the US (where she was the 

only female in her class) she decided 

to come home. “To have staying power 

is a tricky thing as this business is 

very fickle, but this is a great tourist 

area which benefits everyone here. We 

work very hard and put out a great 

product. Our motto is “focus and keep 

it simple.” I also think community 

involvement is huge, and I try to do 

what I can in that department, it all 

helps to get our name out there,” 

she says. F.I.N.E. supports breast 

cancer research with two evenings 

dedicated to fundraising. Shephard 

is also a strong supporter of local 

artists, showcasing their works in the 

restaurant. “We are like a little family 

here. The ability to swing with the food 

trends and listen to our market is very 

important. Because we are so small we 

can do lots of neat things. But still, in 

the end our customers have to like it. 

Ben and I were trained classically but 

this is a rural beach community so we 

try to keep it interesting and current, 

drawing on the knowledge that we 

have acquired over the years.” 

Without a doubt Huron has strong 

women leading the culinary scene, 

with these being just a few examples. 

Tania Auger 

Tania Auger, a born bon vivant, knew from an early 

age that she and the hospitality business were made 

for each other. She arrived in London in the early 

1980s and worked in a variety of notable restaurants 

as a bartender. 

In 1988 Auger 

leased the 

Ritz Hotel in 

Bayfield where 

she opened 

the Shark Inn. 

This paved 

the way for 

Auger to open 

the legendary 

99 King a 

year later. 

Her success 

contributed 

to helping 

King Street 

evolve into the 

restaurant row 

Tania Auger 

it has become. 

Auger 

hired uberchef 

Jacqui Shantz for the long-run period. After a 

decade, in 1997, Auger returned to her hometown of 

Sarnia and opened several new enterprises, including 

the Smoked Oyster and Red Tango, a restaurant/ 

nightclub. Following the events of September 11, 

2001, Sarnia, like other Canadian border cities, felt 

the effects on trade. Undeterred, and never one to 

look backwards, Auger regrouped, conceived and 

conceptualized Lola’s Lounge on Christina Street in 

2002. It continues to be an iconic downtown Sarnia 

hotspot 16 years later. 

— Bryan Lavery

St. Thomas & ELGIN COUNTY 

Eat, Drink, Shop & explore 

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Enjoying Lunch, Dinner or a snack, 

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Spotlight 

London Women in Food 

Culinary, Hospitality and Agricultural Industry Drivers 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

The restaurant industry has been 

notorious for keeping the artistry 

of women chefs on the back burner, 

so to speak. London’s culinary 

scene has never had a lack of hard working, 

dedicated women in class rooms, kitchens, 

on farms, in fields, at markets and in retail, 

and that remains true today. While there 

are too many women to mention in this 

space, I am pleased to highlight a few of the 

remarkable leaders in our culinary, hospitality 

and agricultural industries. Though far 

from comprehensive, this alphabetical list 

represents some of the amazing women who 

are currently driving the London food scene. 

Entrepreneur Val Andrews 

Val Andrews, owner/operator of The Harvest 

Pantry at the Market at Western Fair, is a 

culinary professional bringing over 30 years 

of experience to her craft. Passionate about 

food, she has been cooking and preserving 

since she was old enough to stand on a stool 

and stir the 

contents of 

a pot. Since 

graduating 

from George 

Brown 

College 

Culinary 

Arts 

Program in 

1984 she has 

worked as a 

food service 

manager, 

cooking and 

preserving 

instructor, 

caterer, 

farmers’ 

market stall 

operator, 

Val Andrews 

and occasional food writer. While living in 

Alberta she owned and operated a local meal 

delivery service and farmers’ market stall. 

She also worked as a culinary instructor at 

two Calgary-based cooking schools. Since 

returning to Ontario she has been exploring 

her ancestral roots as a third generation 

fermenter, preserver and grower of food. 

Andrews is dedicated to the use of local 

and organic ingredients and to creating an 

eating experience that is not only delicious 

but also health giving and memorable. 

For Andrews, good food, whether you are 

growing it, preparing it, or eating it has 

been a foundation for forging strong joyful 

relationships, building community and 

making meaningful connections. 

Restaurateur/Chef T.G. Haile 

Chef/restaurateur T.G. Haile embodies the 

art of hospitality and entrepreneurism. 

She is dedicated to supporting meaningful 

cultural and charitable initiatives and events, 

despite the fact that she is a busy hands-on 

restaurateur who 

does all of the 

cooking at her 

restaurant T.G.’s 

Addis Ababa. 

A few years 

ago, T.G. was 

selected as one 

of I am London’s 

successfully 

settled 

immigrants from 

various countries 

that have 

chosen London, 

Ontario as their 

home. T.G. is a 

skilled chef (her 

mother and her 

grandmother 

T.G. Haile


both operated restaurants) and her signature 

dishes from the repertoire of Ethiopian cookery 

comprise permutations of sweet, bitter, sour, 

salty, hot and fragrant. Refinement and flavour 

contrasts are the hallmark of T.G.’s cooking. 

Entrepreneur Nicole Haney 

Nicole Haney, founder and president of Boho 

Bake Shop and Boho Bars, is a self-taught 

baker. An avid runner and health enthusiast 

with a passion for food, Nicole was always on 

the lookout for treats that were healthy but 

also tasted delicious, and could never find 

what she was looking for. She graduated from 

Western University in 2007 with a degree 

in Psychology, and after years in corporate 

environments Nicole’s passion for healthy 

food and her entrepreneurial spirit led her 

to create Boho Bake Shop. With no prior 

experience 

in the food 

industry and 

no formal 

business 

training, 

Nicole taught 

herself how 

to bake 

and how to 

successfully 

scale a food 

business. 

What began 

as an in-home 

Nicole Haney 

order-only 

bakery has 

in two years 

grown to be a successful wholesale bakery, 

supplying almost 50 retail partners with 

doughnuts, cookies, brownies, and energy 

bars. With two farmers’ market locations in 

London, Nicole is able to see in person the 


impact she is making in the community and 

loves that she is able to share gluten-free, 

plant-based baked goods with her clients. 

Chef Alicia Hartley 

Alicia Hartley is a native of Guyana, the home 

of classic fusion cuisine, and although she 

immigrated to Canada at age thirteen, her 

background influences her cooking. Hartley’s 

culinary approach is both instinctual and 

thoughtful. She is a proponent of combining 

ingredients from various cuisines and regions 

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Alicia Hartley 

with contemporary 

ideas. Hartley 

is known 

to ramp up 

the spice 

quotient, 

which she 

does to 

great effect. 

She credits 

her mother, 

who is part 

Chinese, for 

the Asian 

influence in 

her cooking 

repertoire. 

Hartley 

has left her 

mark on such restaurants as The Tasting Room, 

Blu Duby, and The River Room, and is now chef 

at Blackfriars. I queried Chef Hartley about her 

thoughts on the traditional patriarchal kitchen. 

“We are still kind of struggling,” she explained. 

“We still have the boys that try to put us 

women in our place. I call them boys because 

men don’t do that kind of thing. At Blackfriars 

we have a matriarchal system. I feel empowered 

by it. I am not afraid to be myself, I am 

not afraid to be ridiculed or judged, not only 

by Betty but by my colleagues and our clients. I 

don’t have to be good at everything anymore.” 

Restaurateur Marika Hayek 

Restaurateur 

Marika Hayek 

is celebrating 

61 years at 

the landmark 

Budapest 

Restaurant 

in downtown 

London. A few 

years ago Hungarian 

Consul- 

General Dr. 

Stefania Szabo 

celebrated 

Hayek’s 

landmark 

achievements 

as a successful 

business 

Marika Hayek 

(with London Mayor Matt Brown) 

owner and 

pillar of the 


London community. Hayek arrived in Canada 

in March of 1957, then 25. She and her husband 

were part of a wave of immigration that 

occurred after the 1956 Hungarian revolution. 

Trained in Budapest as a cook, Hayek was 

drawn to the hospitality business when she 

arrived in London. While employed by Moskie 

Delicatessen on Dundas Street, Hayek bought 

the building and then the delicatessen from 

its owners. It included the ice cream shop next 

door. In 1968 she and her husband merged the 

two storefronts into a single operation. Out 

of the refurbished buildings they created the 

present-day restaurant. A formidable restaurateur 

with a keen aptitude for the business, she 

has embodied the height of Mittel European 

elegance and sophistication for decades. Hayek 

greets her guests with a gracious “please come 

in, my lovely peoples” or “my lovely ladies and 

gentlemen.” Those food enthusiasts who are 

inclined to dismiss the restaurant as an anachronism 

might want to take a closer look at the 

Budapest’s unique charms, before it becomes a 

thing of the past. 

Restaurateur Betty Heydon 

A long commitment to supporting women 

permeates the fabric of Betty Heydon’s Blackfriars 

Bistro & Catering. Heydon, who long 

ago perfected the art of hospitality, celebrated 

Blackfriars’ twenty-second anniversary in 

February 2018. She comes from a matriarchal 

family of 10 daughters. Previously Heydon 

spent 11 years working at the Marienbad. Her 

deliciously arty bistro, knowledgeable servers 

and top notch kitchen staff have been the 

embodiment of the matriarchy. Heydon says, 

“Blackfriars 

is the type of 

environment 

where women 

feel cared for 

and valued. 

We provide 

a level of 

comfort, and 

it’s the kind 

of space to 

which women 

gravitate.” 

Betty may be 

the Queen Bee 

but culinary 

luminaries 

and chefs 

Jacqui Shantz, 

Betty Heydon


Alicia Hartley, Julianna Guy, and Zakia Haskouri 

have all been part of a stalwart kitchen 

brigade in recent years. Creative and eclectic 

seasonal menus are personally handwritten 

by Heydon, who is also a well-regarded artist. 

This casual bistro located just west of the 

Blackfriars Bridge also features innovative, 

seasonal blackboard specials daily. 

Restaurateur Jess Jazey-Spoelstra 

Craft Farmacy is the latest venture from 

restaurateur/caterer Jess Jazey-Spoelstra, 

who operates North Moore Catering, The 

River Room, and Rhino Lounge in Museum 

London. Like any successful restaurateur/ 

caterer, Jazey-Spoelstra has a particular je 

ne sais quoi and an innate talent for picking 

and mentoring professional staff who 

communicate 

her vision 

and deliver it 

with aplomb 

and finesse. 

Her culinary 

philosophy 

is to create 

exceptional 

food at 

reasonable 

prices. Jazey- 

Spoelstra says, 

“The rest is 

more theory— 

taste the 

ingredients, 

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra 

don’t muddle 

too many 

flavours, use 

excellent 

quality ingredients, and let the food speak for 

itself.” Hers are impressive achievements. 


Chef Angela Murphy 

Executive chef Angela Murphy of Restaurant 

Ninety One at Windermere Manor pursued 

academics out of high school and has a 

double major degree in Humanities and 

English Literature. Murphy has ambitions 

to be a food writer. It is why she went 

to the Stratford Chefs School. I asked 

Chef Murphy about her thoughts on the 

patriarchal kitchen hierarchy. She replied, 

“It is a question that zeroes in on the heart 

of ideal feminism and the issues we are all 

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confronting in today’s new #metoo and 

#timesup world.” 

“We need to change the perception around 

what a chef looks like. I’ve had so many staff 

members that are tall men with beards and 

tattoos thatautomatically garner a deep 

respect for their craft. There is an ingrained 

stereotype that I am constantly battling 

against as a young female chef. Whenever I 

go to events or even converse with guests at 

my own restaurant I am frequently asked if I 

am a student. As a woman a decade past her 

Angela Murphy 

university graduation date with a wealth of 

knowledge and skill running a kitchen staff 

of 18, it’s a little patronizing. People mean 

well, they don’t intend any offense; it’s just 

tough when the public is genuinely shocked to 

discover that you are the woman in charge,” 

states Murphy. 

“The traditional hospitality industry is 

inhospitable to women, especially in the back 

of house," continues Murphy. "We have known 

this for years. The long hours, the macho 

aggression, the harassment present in so many 

kitchens. The thing is though, that it’s not just 

women that suffer from these common issues. 

Men don’t thrive in this environment either. 

I have worked with so many men that have 

had issues balancing work and life because of 

the late nights, the stress, and the physical 

labour. It only allows for a very narrow range of 

personalities to succeed." 


"In the ideal kitchen," says Murphy, "and 

I like to think I model my own kitchen after 

that ideal, everyone feels supported, listened 

to, respected. Each staff member is allowed to 

explore their strengths, their interests, and to 

develop their weaknesses with the help of their 

peers without shame. Personal accountability 

is idealized. Mistakes are owned. Learning and 

growth is expected and encouraged. I would 

even go so far as to declare, utterly rebellious to 

the traditional chef mentality, that restaurants 

should be more accommodating to the personal 

lives of their staff. The kitchen is not a cult; 

you shouldn’t have to forsake your family, your 

friends and your relationships to be successful." 

Educator/Chef Josie Pontarelli 

Chef Josie Pontarelli, a Stratford Chef School 

alumna, has a long and interesting resume that 

includes working at On the Fork and at the 

original iteration of Abruzzi Restaurant. Prior 

to that, Pontarelli managed the Green Room 

at Stratford’s Festival Theatre. There she was 

mentored by chef/cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen 

of Monforte 

Dairy, who 

became an 

important 

influence in her 

early career. 

With 25 years 

of experience 

in the food 

industry, Pontarelli 

has had 

the opportunity 

to supervise 

many professional 

kitchens, 

develop restaurant 

concepts 

and recipes, 

provide food 

styling and 

recipe testing, 

Josie Pontarelli 

and contribute to the local food movement in 

Southwestern Ontario. Currently, she teaches 

both aspiring and professional cooks at Jill’s 

Table and Fanshawe College. More recently, she 

co-founded the food and beverage pairing blog 

site Cork + Board with friend and sommelier 

Christie Pollard. Pontarelli is the Coordinator 

of the Artisanal Culinary Arts program at Fanshawe 

College and is a senior advisor of restaurant 

services at First Key Consulting.


Photographer Alieska Robles 

This creative director and photographer 

extraordinaire brings something truly 

groundbreaking to the table by collaborating 

with culinary enthusiasts, chefs, farmers, and 

regional producers and craft brewers to create 

a one-time craft edition of The Forest City 

Cookbook. Robles has had a transformative 

impact on the local culinary scene with this 

initiative. More than 60 local chefs, souschefs, 

sommeliers, restaurateurs and 40 area 

food producers are on board. 

Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes 

• 

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware 

• 

NEW Light & Healthy Winter Menu 

• 

Afternoon Tea: March 18 & May 13 

Alieska Robles 

Vegan 

Dim Sum Day! 

March 25 

Tea Flight 

Night! 

4th Saturday of 

each month 

268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store) 

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com 

TUES-THURS 11am-5pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN Special Events Only 

SUNDAY BRUNCH 

11am−2pm 

Robles envisioned the project as a 

community-driven and community building 

effort to help advance the culinary scene. 

The book includes contributions from such 

notable women as Jill Wilcox of Jill’s Table, 

Alaura Jones from Growing Chefs Ontario, 

chef Angela Murphy of Restaurant Ninety 

One at Windermere Manor, Barbara Czyz 

of Unique Food Attitudes, Carla Cooper of 

Garlic’s of London, Chandany Chen of Abruzzi 

Ristorante, Julianna Guy (Eatdrink magazine's 

recipe contest winner), Katherine Jones of 

Growing Chefs Ontario, Meaghan Biddle of 

Locomotive Espresso, Michele Lenhardt of V 

Food Spot, Shannon Kamins of Booch Organic 

Kombucha, Shauna Versloot of The Live Well 

Community, Tabitha Switzer of La Noisette 

Bakery, Jocelyn de Groot of zen’Za Pizzeria 

and Yoda Olinyk of Yoda’s Kitchen. 

Mon/Tues 11:30–10, Wed/Thurs 11:30–11, Fri/Sat 11:30–12, Sun 11–10


Farmer/Activist Christine Scheer 

Christine Scheer has been an important and 

inspiring voice in the local culinary scene as 

a chef, caterer, educator, cookbook author, 

local food 

movement 

advocate, 

writer and 

influential 

community 

food 

advisor for 

over three 

decades. In 

1991 Scheer 

married, 

and she and 

her husband 

John 

Wilson quit 

their jobs 

and bicycled 

Christine Scheer 

around 

the world. 

When they 

got home a year later they moved to Dolway 

Farm and began the process of converting the 

acreage into an organic farm. Until last fall, 

Covent Garden Farmers’ Market was managed 

by Scheer. It remains London’s only 100% 

producer-based market, which means that 

every vendor at the market sells what they 

themselves grow, raise, bake, or preserve. As 

a director of Farmers’ Market of Ontario for 

six years and at the Covent Garden Market for 

seven years Scheer has had a transformative 

impact on what we eat and drink. In 2017, two 

years after being diagnosed with Parkinson’s 

disease, Scheer retired from these positions. 

She is an engaged member of the Middlesex 

London Food Policy Council. 

Chef Jacqueline “Jacqui” Shantz 

Jacqui Shantz trained at George Brown 

College and apprenticed at The Millcroft Inn 

before heading to Switzerland for two years, 

where she developed a love for skiing along 

with her own culinary style. Her culinary 

approach is described by restaurateur Betty 

Heydon as “cutting-edge with a respect for 

tradition.” Shantz build a solid reputation 

for culinary excellence at such restaurants as 

the former Castens, Crabapples and 99 King. 

She spent a decade as executive chef at J. P. 

Baillargeon’s Custom Cuisine Catering, one 

of the region’s most highly regarded special 


event and catering companies. Shantz is a 

crucial part of Blackfriars Bistro & Catering 

where she has been executive chef for the last 

12 years. I recall an interviewer asking Shantz 

nearly three 

decades ago 

how she saw 

herself in 

the culinary 

hierarchy. 

Her tonguein-cheek 

answer was 

“above [Paul] 

Bocuse.” 

We recently 

talked about 

the famed 

misogynist 

French chef 

who recently 

passed 

away at 91, 

and Shantz 

Jacqui Shantz 

confirmed 

that when she went to see him there was 

a sign on the gate that stated “No Women 

Allowed.” Shantz has long been considered 

one of London’s top chefs. 

Restaurateur Hiedi Vamvalis 

Restaurateur and community leader Hiedi 

Vamvalis is a pillar of hospitality, and has 

been serving Greek/Mediterranean cuisine 

and traditional English fish and chips for over 

40 years at the beloved Mykonos Restaurant 

on Adelaide St. 

Vamvalis previously 

sat on the 

board of the 

Grand Theatre and 

is a long-time supporter 

of the arts. 

She is currently 

a board member 

for the Family 

Advisory Committee 

for Mental 

Health. As has 

often been said, 

Vamvalis has likely 

given enough 

hugs in her career 

to embrace every 

resident of the 

city. 

Hiedi Vamvalis


Entrepreneur Jill Wilcox 

Jill’s Table is London’s paramount purveyor of 

fine foods and an award-winning specialty food 

and kitchen store in downtown London. Owner 

Jill Wilcox 

is an amazing 

culinary 

resource — 

supportive, 

knowledgeable, 

and 

a leader in 

promoting 

the local food 

community. 

For more 

than 22 years 

Wilcox has 

been leading 

cooking 

classes, most 

recently at 

Jill’s Table, 

Jill Wilcox 

and for more 

than 37 years 

has worked as a food columnist for the London 

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Free Press and Post Media. Wilcox leads culinary 

tours to France and Italy and has been the subject 

of numerous national magazine and newspaper 

articles. She has been awarded the London 

Chamber of Commerce Business Achievement 

Award and The London Y Women of Excellence 

award. In 2012 she started The Jill Wilcox Foundation 

to grant funding to food-related and 

educational projects that support women and 

children in need. She is an active member in the 

local food movement and volunteers on a number 

of food-related projects. Currently she sits on 

the board of the London Chamber of Commerce. 

Wilcox has published six cookbooks, including 

her latest, Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads. 

I salute these talented and inspirational women 

who have made unique contributions to the 

local culinary scene. Their worthy peers are too 

many to mention in one article, but I would 

feel remiss not to name some other women. 

Stalwarts include the formidable Pat Spigos 

of High Lunch; Vanessa Willis of The Church 

Key Bistro-Pub; Michelle Pierce Hamilton 

of beTeas and The Tea Lounge; Joelle Lees of 

Michael’s On The Thames; Anna Turkiewicz 

of Klieber’s Deli; Barbara Czyz of Unique 


Food Attitudes; Michelle Lenhardt of the 

V Food Spot; Mies Bervoets, formerly of 

Miestro; Dagmar Wendt, formerly of Under 

the Volcano, Zakia Haskouri formerly of 

Casbah; Hilary Alderson Moon of the former 

landmark Say Cheese; Mary Ann Wrona of 

the former Café Bourgeois; and Ann McColl 

Lindsay of the former Ann McColl’s Kitchen 

Shop. Relative newcomers such as Julie 

Kortekaas and Chef Shayna Patterson 

of Rebel Remedy; Margaret Coons of Nuts 

for Cheese; Laura Owen of The Springs; 

Elaine Sawyer from Wich Is Wich; Liliana 

Hernandez-Oliva of North Moore Catering 

and Craft Farmacy; and The River Room’s 

sous chef Sarah Martins also make my list of 

formidable women in London’s culinary world. 

They are all making a difference. 

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large, 

brings years of professional experience in the restaurant 

and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurateur and 

partner in a culinary consulting business, Lavery Culinary 

Group. Always on the lookout for stories Eatdrink should 

be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under his 

byline and behind the scenes. 

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Road Trips 

A Love Affair 

with Southampton 


By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY 

For many years I have had a love affair 

with Southampton, Ontario. As a 

child I would stand on the beach 

looking across at the lighthouse on 

Chantry Island. I wanted to live there. As I 

got older I was mesmerized by the spectacular 

Lake Huron sunsets. 

Last summer I finally divulged my secret 

love to a friend, and the idea of a day trip 

was born. We left early one Friday morning, 

equipped with coolers and ice packs, having 

decided to make this into a food trip, and to 

take home some fresh Bruce County produce 

and other local foods. 

From Kettle Point to Southampton, 

Highway 21 follows the Lake Huron shoreline, 

offering some marvellous views along the way. 

Half of the fun of a day trip is getting there, so 

of course we made a few stops along the way. 

Our first stop was Burdan’s Red Cat Farm 

and Bakery, just north of Goderich. Yes, the 

bakery truck comes to The Market at Western 

Fair, but being able to enjoy the aroma of bread 

baking in a brick oven, while watching the 

Muscovy ducks waddle across the green grass 

to swim in the pond, and breathing in the fresh 

country air was worth the visit. Of course, we 

left laden with loaves of freshly baked bread. 

We’re both cheese lovers, and so our next 

stop, was like a taste of heaven on earth! 

The Pine River Cheese and Butter Co-op was 

established in 1885, on the banks of the Pine 

River, near the shores of Lake Huron. The 

original purpose was to manufacture and sell 

cheese and butter, and to buy, keep, fatten, 

and sell hogs. The present day company 

manufactures and sells cheese, offering tours 

and viewings of how cheese is made. 

We found mild, medium, old and premium 

cheddars, mozzarella, Havarti, and flavoured 

cheeses such as the first ever Craft Beer 

Cheese Puck (Canadian Eh?), a new Cheese 

Fudge variety — Chocolate Mint Cheese 

Fudge, and a great selection of goat cheeses. 

Last year the co-op launched a line of organic 

Top: Southampton Beach. Middle: Red Cat Bakery, just 

north of Goderich, where the Burdans make their organic 

breads in a traditional brick oven (bottom photo).



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on the cash purchase of select new 2017/2018 Lexus vehicles in February including 2017 Lexus RX 350 ($3,000 on suffixes B, C, G & H), 2017 Lexus RX 450h ($3,000 on all suffixes). ^Delivery Credits in February are 

available on the purchase/lease of select new 2017 and 2018 Lexus vehicles including 2017 Lexus RX 350 ($4,000 on suffix A; $3,000 suffixes G & H; $2,500 on suffixes B & C), 2017 Lexus RX 450h ($3,000 on suffix H; 

$2,500 suffixes A, B & C), 2017 Lexus NX 200t ($4,000 on suffix A; $3,500 suffixes F, G & H; $3,000 on suffixes B, C, D & S), 2018 Lexus NX 300 ($3,000 on suffix A; $2,000 on all other suffixes), 2018 Lexus NX 300h 

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cheeses that includes creamy mozzarella, 

cheddar with caramelized onion, and cheddar 

with tomato and basil. The curd selection is 

just as extensive with not only cheddar, but 

also flavours such as dill, black pepper, craft 

beer, crushed chillies, caramelized onion, and 

Thai curry. 

The store offerings are not limited to 

cheese; gourmet items include speciality 

coffees, cocoa and hot chocolate, imported 

chocolates, candy, biscuits, a wide variety 

of crackers, jams, jellies, preserves, pickles, 

olives, and more. Our coolers were filling 

quickly. 

After a couple of more stops at roadside 

fruit and vegetable stands to purchase 

some fresh local produce, our next stop 

was Southampton! Of course we parked by 

the beach to breathe in the Lake Huron air 

and gaze across to Chantry Island. As we 

meandered along High Street (Southampton’s 

main street) I reminisced about the general 

store and bakery that we used to frequent 

when I was growing up. My, how things have 

changed! 

The Cook’s Cupboard, which features 

not only kitchen supplies, recipe books and 

specialty foods, but also a huge selection of 

offbeat, interesting gift items, was a shopping 

haven for early Christmas shopping. 

Although specialty olive oils and vinegars 

are available across the region, our visit to the 

Southampton Olive Oil Company to sample 

some of the 60 varieties of olive oils and 

vinegars was another welcome stop on our 

culinary adventure. 

As we continued to Offshore Bakery, The 

Light House Photo Gallery and several other 

shops, we realized that our food shopping 

had made us hungry. There are many places 

to choose from. For sentimental reasons 

my choice was the Walker House. Originally 

known as the Royal Hotel it was one of the 

first structures to be built in Southampton, 

in 1852. Throughout the years the name 

has changed several times, becoming the 


Walker House in 1915 when it was purchased 

by Robert and Helen Walker. Slowly it 

transitioned into a restaurant and is now a 

definite landmark. 

What could be better than a feast of fresh 

Lake Huron whitefish accompanied by a fresh 

From the top: Chantry Island Lighthouse and keeper’s 

cottage. The island is a migratory bird sanctuary. Photo: 

Peter K. Burian 

The Light House Photo Gallery and Southampton 

Olive Oil Company are just two of the shops to visit on 

Southampton’s High Street. 

The landmark Walker House is one of the town’s oldest 

buildings. 

Relax after your day, on the porch at Chantry Breezes 

Bed & Breakfast


garden salad and local vegetables? Too full for 

dessert we made our way back to the beach to 

wait for the spectacular Lake Huron sunset 

and to listen as the piper piped down the sun 

— a community tradition. 

Should you choose to spend the night there 

are several hotels and motels. Chantry Breezes 

Bed & Breakfast is a great choice just a few 

meters from the beach. 

It was getting late but, as my dad always 

said, “never miss a sunset.” Afterwards we 

made our way home laden with food and gifts, 


totally full from our gastronomic escapades, 

and realizing that the flame had been 

rekindled. The love affair was still alive. 

NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who 

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared 

in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and 

Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and 

many other publications. 

Discover Heather's Incomparable Journeys 

“Carefully planned, relaxed, casual and friendly experiences” 

Small Custom Group Tours — Personally Designed & Escorted 

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca 

Imperial Cities (Austria/Hungary/Czech Republic) — May 2018 

The Slow Roads of Ireland — Sept 2018 

Impeccable Italy — Oct 2018 

For any and all of your travel needs 

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203, 

519-473-8591 

Oakville ON TICO#50013851 Heather Wilkinson 

Travel 

Industry Council of Ontario 

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The BUZZ 


Culinary Community Notes 

London 

In Canada, the gender pay gap is thirteen cents on 

the dollar. Not as bad as some other countries, but 

certainly not something that should even exist. 

Mark Serre of The Morrissey House is doing his 

bit by offering a 13% discount on Mondays to all 

women on food purchases, lunch or dinner — a 

different kind of “ladies night.” More importantly 

donations, based upon the gross Monday sales, will 

be made to local charities such as Anova, London 

Abused Women’s Centre, My Sister’s Place, and 

Life*Spin. themorrisseyhouse.com 

In the spirit of giving back to the community The 

Jill Wilcox Foundation was established in 2012 with 

the hope that the work of the Foundation would 

nurture the lives of women and children who, in 

turn, would discover the richness and joy that 

comes from sharing a well-prepared meal with 

family. The Foundation strives to help women and 

children in food related initiatives. www.jillstable. 

ca/jill- wilcox-foundation/ 

David Chapman of David’s Bistro and his team 

originally hoped to reopen last fall but that was 

pushed to February, and now to March 10. Chapman 

says, “The front of the house is done. There is still 

some work to be done on the hood vent but they 

hope to start moving equipment back this week. I 

am hopeful and anxious.” davidsbistro.ca 

Chef Dave Lamers of Abruzzi confirms that he and 

Rob D’Amico are opening another restaurant later 

this year, possibly November. It will be in Hyde 

Park, with a different concept and name. Abruzzi 

recently welcomed Chef Justin Dafoe, formerly 

of The Bruce Hotel in Stratford and a graduate of 

Stratford Chefs School. Dafoe is currently working 

at Abruzzi, and will be leading the kitchen team at 

the new restaurant. abruzzi.ca 

Chef/owner Thomas Waite and his staff recently 

celebrated the Spruce on Wellington’s first 

anniversary with updates to the décor, acoustic 

enhancement and the launch of new and accessibly 

priced menus. Staff now includes corporate chef 

Ashton Gillespie along with Jamie Sandwith, 

Larissa McCutcheon and Jason Astels, who are 

committed to delivering a professional restaurant 

experience. Waite recently announced a new slate 

of immersive cooking classes to be held at the 

restaurant. spruceonwellington.com 

Betty Heydon’s Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is 

now open on Mondays for lunch and dinner. This 

acclaimed bistro recently celebrated its 22nd 

birthday. Heydon features innovative, seasonal 

blackboard specials with cutting-edge menus that 

respect tradition. blackfriarsbistro.com 

Michelle Pierce-Hamilton of The Tea Lounge is 

leading a two-week series of Meditation and Tea 

on March 15 & 22. Guests will enjoy an enhanced 

experience of tea-tasting after a relaxing and 

calming meditation. The Tea Lounge is also 

featuring a St Patrick’s Day-themed afternoon tea 

on March 18, and a spring-themed vegan dim sum 

on March 25. beteas.com/tea-lounge/ 

Jeffrey Dennis has taken over as general manager 

of The Park Hotel (formerly Station Park All Suite 

NOW SERVING SUPPER 

thursdays–saturdays 

5–10 pm 

reservations encouraged 

125 King St., London 

519.860.WICH (9424)


Hotel) on Richmond Row. For the past seven years 

he was the director of sales and marketing at The 

Residence Inn by Marriott London Downtown. 

Andreea Weldon has been appointed as director 

of sales and marketing. The hotel is in the final 

stages of completing guestroom renovations. 

stationparkhotel.com 

The new Forrat’s Chocolate Lounge is open at 60 

North Centre Road, across from Masonville Mall 

in the same plaza as Wendy's. Chic, casual and 

comfortable, the lounge features plenty of booths 

and seating options. Beer and wine as well as some 

interesting nibbles are available, but the star of the 

show is, unsurpisingly, the chocolate! 

Chef Kim Sutherland has been hired to lead the 

culinary experience in the new $6.1 million-dollar 

Boler Mountain Chalet. Well known and respected 

in the London culinary scene, Chef Sutherland 

is a local Londoner with extensive experience in 

large scale culinary establishments, with an eye 

to local sustainable practices. “Boler is looking 

forward to opening the full service restaurant 

in the spring after ski season has ended," says 

Sutherland. "Due to the incredible opening to the 

ski season we decided to postpone the restaurant 

until the spring. We are booking lots of weddings 

and corporate events and looking forward to what 

the other three seasons will bring.” Chef will also 

be offering special occasion meals for corporate 

functions, weddings and private events. Seating is 

available for up to 200 in a variety of private space 

configurations. bolermountain.com 

Jim Telfer, president of Grafica Event Planners, 

has over 30 years of event planning experience 

working both locally and internationally. Telfer 

believes in cultivating strong relationships to 

ensure that your event is built with the spirit of 

true teamwork. At Telfer’s home décor shop Splash 

you can find exciting curated décor including 

art, mirrors, exceptional rugs, custom-designed 

twelve seats 

five course tasting menu 

Contemporary Canadian Cuisine 


artisanal pieces, and other unique accents. Explore 

the eclectic collection of handmade, one-of-a-kind, 

and designer jewellery and accessories to find the 

perfect new piece for you or your loved ones. 

Sharinne Snellen at Sha Choix jewelry and gift 

shop in Wortley Village offers private shopping 

parties catered by her husband, executive chef 

Juriaan Snellen, with wine, cocktails and hors 

d’oeuvres. www.shachoix.com 

Joelle Lees of Michael’s on the Thames is 

celebrating the 35th anniversary of the restaurant 

208 Piccadilly Street, London 

reverierestaurant.ca 

By Reservation Only 519 914-6595 

Commercial & Residential 

Upholstery Specialists 

Hunter & Co., London 

Lifetime Warranty on Workmanship 

Email your furniture photo 

or call for a quote! 

Robert Robinson’s 

UPHOLSTERERS SINCE 1916 

119 Consortium Court, London 

robertrobinsons@rogers.com 

519 455-9910

APRIL 5 th 2018 at the LONDON CONVENTION CENTRE 


Chef Michael Smith’s 

Tickets 

$200. ea 

call Lindey 

519 . 858 . HOPE 

or visit 

BethanysHope.org 

Join us for: 

An Interactive 

Dinner Party 

Featuring: 

Chef Michael Smith 

5:00 PM 

Cocktails 

Food Stations 

Silent Auction 

7:00 PM 

Dinner Service 

& Program 

Live Auction


in March. Former owner Brian Stewart has 

given Lees menus and articles dating back to 

when he opened the restaurant. Lees is putting 

together a 1983 throwback three-course dinner 

menu complete with period items and pricing. 

michaelsonthethames.com 

Nutritionist Julie Kortekaas and Chef Shayna 

Patterson’s Rebel Remedy has launched a series 

of two- and three-day "Reset" programs, featuring 

cold-pressed juices, functional remedy drinks, 

traditionally brewed kombucha, and fibre-rich 

healing foods. The spring menu will come out at 

the beginning of April, and will include sandwiches 

and salads that highlight the produce of our local 

foodshed, while promoting traditional ingredients 

like bone broth, offal, sourdough, sauerkraut, and 

algae. As always, Rebel’s many vegan options are 

soy-free. rebelremedy.com 

Keto Health Foods, providing gluten-free and 

sugar-free meals, desserts, bagels and snacks, 

recently opened their first take-out location at 

416 Hamilton Road. Keto Health Foods previously 

delivered to their growing London clientele who 

follow a ketogenic lifestyle. Customers can now 

order on-line (the menu is updated weekly) and 

then pick-up at the Hamilton Road location, or have 

their orders delivered. ketohealthfoods.ca 

Situated in the Diamond Flight Centre on Blair 

Blvd. (one block north of Oxford St. off Crumlin 

Road), the Katana Kafé & Grill overlooks the main 

runway of the London International Airport and 

uniquely combines the romance of aviation with 

fabulous food. Executive Chef Chris Morrison has 

just released interesting new lunch and dinner 

menus. Tasty surprises include Lobster Tail and 

Chorizo Pogos, with an emphasis on sophisticated 

comfort food. katanakafe.ca 

CommonWealth Coffee Company is opening at 

478 Richmond Street around mid-March. It will 


be a true third-wave coffee shop, with west- to 

east-coast roaster offerings. The concept for the 

space looks impressive. Next door, Kari Egan’s Roli 

Poli–Hand Rolled Ice Cream features premium ice 

cream, but also vegan-friendly, non-fat yogurt and 

coconut milk ice cream. Roli Poli is also located at 

The Market at Western Fair. rolipoliicecream.com 

Katherine Jones, executive chef of Growing Chefs!, 

has worked hard to challenge the perceived 

limitations of children and youth in the kitchen. 

During her maternity leave in December, chef Ryan 

Southwestern Ontario’s Most Dynamic 

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New Chalet for Social & 

Corporate Events Now Open! 

Great Hall Banquet Room • Concourse • Meeting Rooms 

Weddings | Bridal & Baby Showers | Corporate Meetings & Retreats 

519-657-8822 

689 Griffith Street, London 

www.bolermountain.com 

SKIING • SNOWBOARDING • TUBING • TREETOP ADVENTURE PARK 

Reserve 

for 

Mother’s Day 

Brunch! 

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com 

Blackfriars 

Bistro & Catering 

• 

Lunch Mon–Fri 

Dinner Mon–Sat 

• 

Dietary Needs 

Accommodated 

• 

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Wishak was welcomed to the team. Wishak is a 

Fanshawe College Culinary Management graduate 

with 15 years of experience in the industry and is 

classically trained in Italian cuisine. Over the years, 

a who’s who of women chefs has participated in the 

Growing Chefs! program, including Kim Sutherland, 

executive chef of Boler Mountain; Michele 

Lenhardt of V Food Spot; Yoda Olinyk of Yoda’s 

Private Catering; Nancy Abra of From My Garden; 

Shauna Stewart, of The Livewell Community; 

Chandany Chen of Abruzzi; Ellen Lacroix of the 

Great Canadian Superstore; Vicci Coughlin of The 

Hey Cupcake! 

www.heycupcake.ca 

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North 

519-433-CAKE (2253) 

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7 

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4 

where art is 

a piece of cake 

The ORIGINAL 

LONDON CAKERY & 

GOURMET CUPCAKE 

BAKERY 

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available 

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Telegraph House; Laura Wall of Petit Paris; Tracy 

Little of The Springs Restaurant; Marisa Verbeem, 

Amanda Jeffery and Carolyn Nesbitt-Larking, just 

to name a few. growingchefsontario.ca 

The Boombox Bakeshop is the brain child of 

Alexandra Connon. With a love for baking, passion 

for music, and support of family and friends, the 

bakery was born. It is a veg-friendly bakery and 

cafe specializing in vegan goods and gluten-free 

vegan goods. On offer are signature seasonallyflavoured 

cupcakes, pop overs, cookies, sweets, 

and other delightful seasonal surprises. Connon is 

all about supporting local, whether it’s promoting 

local bands, or sourcing fresh organic produce from 

local farmers and distributors. Even the coffee is 

roasted locally and specially blended for the shop. 

theboomboxbakeshop.com 

Londoners know long-time vendor Mimi Mobarak 

for her West and East Indian and Guyanese Kitchen 

at The Market at Western Fair. Mobarak and 

husband Sheik also operate the West Indian & More 

Kitchen on Jalna Boulevard, where they serve hot 

and fresh Halal specialities and takeaway foods like 

authentic curries, butter chicken, hand-rolled rotis 

and real jerk. Plant-based dishes include doubles 

(a chickpea sandwich of sorts), veggie samosas, 

potato pies with herbs, and aromatic ginger soup. 

Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday 11–7. 

Bhan Mudliar, owner of The New Delhi Deli at 

Covent Garden Market, came to Canada from the 

Fiji Islands. Mudliar serves exquisite homemade 

Caribbean-Indian cuisine. Try the jerk chicken, 

oxtail, curry goat, roti wraps, samosas, seafood, 

curry chicken, a variety of daily soups and Jamaican 

patties. Mudliar also offers a selection of glutenfree, 

veggie, and vegan options. 

The first annual London I ❤ BEER & Bacon 

Festival is coming to the London Convention Centre 

on March 24. Over 20 Ontario breweries, cideries 

“Pure 

Chinese” 

Cuisine 

—Eatdrink 

Wednesday to Sunday 

11:30am to 8pm 

Five Fortune 

Culture 

RESTAURANT 

366 Richmond Street at King 

www.fivefortuneculture.com 

226 667 9873 

Menu changes FRI–SUN


and distillers and more than 12 local restaurants 

are coming together for this event. Not a fan of 

bacon? Vendors will have non-bacon dishes and a 

few vegetarian dishes as well. iheartbeer.ca/london 

The Cocktail Show will take place on Saturday, April 

14 from 3 pm–11 pm at Budweiser Gardens. Attendees 

will have drinks prepared by world-class mixologists, 

and have the opportunity to discuss different cocktail 

varieties with brand ambassadors and to learn from 

experts in the field of mixology. budweisergardens. 

com/events/detail/the- cocktail-show 

Curley Brewing Company recently opened at 1700 

Hyde Park Road. The business, co-owned by Nigel 

Curley and Kelsey Watkinson, features a vegan café 

serving light lunches, kombucha, coffee and baked 

goods, and offers four small-batch beers on tap that 

are also available to take home in 500 ml bottles. 

curleybrewing.com 

London Training Centre is pleased to offer the 

Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship program again 

beginning May 1. The six-month program is fully 

funded by The Ministry of Advanced Education and 

Skills Development and includes an eight-week paid 

placement in London restaurants. This program is an 

ideal opportunity for people working in the industry 

to enhance their skills and move their careers 

forward. The course will explore, in detail, safe knife 

skills, kitchen sanitation and safety, fundamental 

cooking principles, menu design, pastry baking 

and bread making practices, nose to tail butchery, 

identification and use of seasonal produce, stock and 

sauce making. The theoretical classroom learning 

will be pertinent to the tactile practical applications 

in the kitchen environment. 

Limited enrollment and small class size (12 students) 

will offer a greater opportunity for an exclusive student 

learning experience. Applicants must have an Ontario 

Secondary School Diploma or equivalent and the ideal 

candidate will have previous restaurant experience 

and a strong interest in a culinary career. Deadline for 

application: April 23. londontraining.on.ca/culinarypre-apprenticeship.htm 

Stratford 

The York Street Kitchen is back on York Street in 

the space previously occupied by Linleys Food Shop. 

Open every day from 11 am to 4 pm. Check out the 

new space and new menu. yorkstreetkitchen.com 

Stratford Chefs School alumna Chef Loreena Miller 

leads the Revival House kitchen with a background 

in French cuisine and a passion for Perth County 

inspired dishes. Revival House continues its focus 

on the locals during the winter/spring months 

with Thursday to Saturday dining after 5 pm and 

Your love of all things Italian begins at 

Gift Cards 

Available 

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com 

162 Wortley Rd., London, ON N6C 3P7 

plantmatterkitchen.com 

519.660.3663 

GREAT FOOD IN THE HEART OF 

WORTLEY VILLAGE 

GOOD FOOD FIRST 

ORGANIC • VEGAN • LOCAL 

BREAKFAST. BRUNCH. LUNCH. 

DINNER. DRINKS. 

CHECK OUT OUR OTHER TWO LOCATIONS! 

244 Dundas St., London, ON N6A 1H3 

plantmatterbistro.com 

717 Richmond St., London, ON N6A 1S2 

plantmattercafe.com


weekend brunch, now both Saturday & Sunday 

11am–2 pm. revival.house 

The Common is a new restaurant in the space 

previously occupied by Monforte on Wellington. 

It features an eclectic mix of comfort food from 

around the world. Chef/owner Tim Otsuki 

blends and elevates the traditional with the 

contemporary. The tagline is “Eat Without Borders.” 

thecommonstratford.com 

The Bruce Hotel has welcomed Molly Berg as 

General Manager. A native Californian, Molly has 

REOPENING SOON! 

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30 

DINNER from 5pm daily 

432 Richmond Street 

at Carling • London 

ALWAYS 

a 3-course prix fixe 

menu option 

www.davidsbistro.ca 


worked as the Director of Operations at Château du 

Sureau, a Relais & Chateaux property, and for other 

fine properties in La Jolla and San Diego. The Bruce 

also welcomed Joe Duby as Food and Beverage 

Manager for the hotel. thebruce.ca 

2018 Stratford Chefs School Open Kitchen Cooking 

Classes now in session. Starting in March and 

running until the end of September, the Stratford 

Chefs School opens its doors to home cooks looking 

for hands-on skills building classes that are as 

informative as they are fun. March and April classes 

include Pasta, Sourdough Bread, Indian Curry, 

Vegetarian Entrees, Cooking with Pressure Cookers, 

Taste Wine like a Pro and a special St. Patrick’s 

inspired Irish Meal. Classes are held in the school 

kitchens at 136 Ontario Street and range in cost 

from $45 to $75. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen 

Stratford Chefs School is pleased to partner with 

Chef Neil Baxter during the 32nd year of his 

renowned springtime weekend cooking classes. 

Chef Baxter will lead the students in cooking four 

menus over the weekend: two dinners and two 

lunches. Participants will be provided with course 

material to take home as well as all ingredients, 

wine, apron and knives. 2018 Weekend Cooking 

Class dates are: March 23–25, April 6–8, April 

20–22 and April 27–29th. Please contact Chef 

Baxter directly: chefneil1@mac.com 

The “String Bone presents Live at Revival 

House” monthly concert series features Canadian 

musicians in a one-of-a-kind concert setting. 

Upcoming performers include Irish-born, 

contemporary Canadian folk artist Irish Mythen 

with Toronto duo Harrow Fair (Miranda Mulholland 

of Great Lake Swimmers and Andrew Penner of 

Sunparlour Players) with their foot-stomping brand 

of folk-rock, Oh Susanna/Sunparlour Players, and 

Samantha Martin & Delta Sugar. Preferred seating 

is available with pre-concert dinner reservations. 

stringbonepresents.co 

Spring into New & Exciting Experiences 

481 Richmond Street • 519-432-4092 

garlicsoflondon.com •


Junction 56 is Stratford’s newest distillery — recent 

winner of six medals in the latest edition of the 

Canadian Artisan Spirit competition, one for each 

product entered. The distillery specializes in vodka, gin 

and moonshine. Stop by on a Saturday for a lively and 

informative tour. Be sure to try Sugar Shack, maple 

flavoured moonshine as well as Fireshine (cinnamon) 

and Eclipse (anise) flavours. junction56.ca 

Swan Parade Weekend: April 7–8. Stratford salutes 

spring with the quirky ritual of marching the swans 

to the Avon River. Family fun starts Saturday 

downtown with live entertainment, music, street 

performers and a quest for decorated swan topiaries. 

Sunday’s family entertainment begins with a Swan 

Fair at the Festival Theatre Lobby from 10 am to 1 

pm. The Musical March brings the children together 

to meet the Swan-y Street Party from noon to 3 pm 

along Lakeside Drive, with the swans parading at 2 

pm led by the Stratford Police Pipes and Drums. Food 

trucks on site. visitstratford.ca/swans 

Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging begins April 21. 

Join naturalist/forager Peter Blush as he searches 

forest trails for wild edibles such as wild leeks, trout 

lilies, saddle mushrooms, wild ginger and more while 

you discover the natural beauty of forests and field 

around Stratford. Learn to harvest these delicious 

gems of nature sustainably. Recipes for seasonal wild 

edibles will also be supplied. Meet at 96 Birmingham 

Street, Stratford. 10 am –1 pm, $35/person, 519 271- 

3726, pucksplenty.com to reserve your space. 

Around the Region 

At Jakeman’s Maple Farm near Beachville, the 

delicious pancake breakfast with homemade maple 

syrup served by Oxford’s 4-H members. Weather 

permitting, enjoy a horse drawn carriage ride 

or take a stroll through nearby Trillium Woods. 

jakemansmapleproducts.com 

McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Syrup Festival offers a 

chance to see maple syrup being made. Take a horse 

drawn wagon ride through the sugar bush, see how 

sap is collected, tour the sugar shack, and stop by 

the barn to see what the animals are up to. Enjoy a 

warm pancake breakfast featuring McCully’s own 

maple syrup. www.mccullys.ca 

The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and run 

by Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor is 

originally from the UK, Jana from Chatham, ON. 

They are both tea drinkers, sandwich makers and 

know a good scone when they see one. Located in 

one of the oldest properties in the town, believed to 

be at least 145 years old, the premises retain many 

period features. thevillageteapot.ca 

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Diamond Flight Centre


142 fullarton at richmond 


For the third year in a row, Dairy Capital Cheese 

Fest is back in Woodstock. Connect with cheese 

makers, artisans, restaurants and breweries and of 

course, eat some delicious cheesy goodness. April 

28. dairycapitalcheesefest.ca 

Grab your girlfriends and head to Exeter for the 

sixth annual Ladies Night Out on Friday, May 

25 from 4–10 pm. Over 25 retail businesses and 

restaurants will be ready to give ladies the VIP 

treatment. Join Eddington’s of Exeter for Ladies 

Night Out — it’s Friday Night Pickerel Night, plus 

Gourmet Pizza Night has been extended to Friday 

just for the ladies. There will also be a selection of 

wine/sangria/Bellinis for 40% off. Reservations are 

recommended. experienceexeter.ca/communityevents-2/ladies-night-details/ 

Alton Farms Estate Winery, near the community 

of Forest in Lambton Shores, offers Winter Hike/ 

Snowshoe/Ski Weekends in March. Spend the 

afternoon hiking, snowshoeing or skiing through 

three kilometres of vineyard and wooded trails. 

After your adventure, warm yourself at the outdoor 

wood fire, purchase a glass of hot, spicy mulled 

wine or enjoy a wine tasting in the Tasting Room. 

Parking and use of trails are free. Check in at 

Tasting Room for a trail map before starting your 

adventure. altonfarmsestatewinery.com 

eatdrinkmag 

We are finally on Instagram! Follow 

us, as with our other social media 

links, at eatdrinkmag. See you there! 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario 

in print, and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at 

editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly with 

our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery 

at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Deadline for submissions for the May/June issue is 

April 10.

“I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, 

they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. 

The great point is to bring them the real facts, and beer. 

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— Abraham Lincoln 

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Wine 


For the Love of Wine 

A Conversation with Winemaker Allison Christ 

by GARY KILLOPS 

Founded in 1980, Colio Estate Wines 

is one of Ontario’s oldest wineries 

and the first in the Lake Erie North 

Shore wine region to receive a winery 

licence following prohibition. The wines are 

available at the winery in Harrow and at any 

of the 14 retail stores located throughout 

Ontario. They can also be found at many 

LCBO and grocery stores. 

With production exceeding 580,000 cases 

of wine in 2017, Colio is one of Ontario’s 

largest wineries, making wine with familiar 

labels such as Bricklayer’s, Lake and River, 

Girls’ Night Out, Lily Sparkling, Prism Icewine 

and the Colio International Series. 

Following in the footsteps of winemakers 

Carlo Negri, Tim Reilly and Lawrence 

Buhler, Allison Christ is Colio’s first female 

winemaker. I asked Allison some questions 

about the Ontario wine industry, making wine 

at Colio and her thoughts on the growing 

Ontario wine industry. 

What inspired you to become a winemaker? 

AC: I’ve always had a love for wine; it was 

always a part of our family dinners growing 

up. I was looking for an interesting career 

that could utilize my chemistry degree when 

I stumbled across the wine industry. It ended 

up being an entirely natural fit and the perfect 

career path for me. 

How did you become the winemaker for Colio? 

AC: I was on a tour of Colio five years ago when 

I got talking to the winemaker at the time who 

was looking for an assistant winemaker. My 

passion for wine and the transferrable skills 

from my degree helped me to get that position. 

When Lawrence left almost three years ago for 

another opportunity I was fortunate enough 

that Colio saw my value and it’s been an 

amazing whirlwind ever since. 

What are you trying to achieve with your wines? 

AC: I am trying to make approachable valueoriented 

wines that showcase the beauty 

Lily Sparkling 

Rosé VQA 

Winemaker 

Allison Christ


of the Ontario wine region. I think sparkling 

wine has great potential in Ontario and I think 

we need to focus on both charmat and the traditional 

method of sparkling wine production. 

Tell us your favourite part of the winemaking 

process? 

AC: My favourite part is our blending session 

in February. It’s the point in the process where 

every single wine is evaluated blindly to assess 

the quality and you really get to see the results 

of all the hard work through the fall. It’s the best 

time to celebrate the successes and really look at 

what you want to do differently the next year. 

Is there a winemaker that you modeled yourself 

after, or whose skill you appreciate? 

AC: I really have only worked under Lawrence 

but I couldn’t ask for a better mentor. I admire 

his skill and his management style. I owe him 

a lot. 

Are there varietals that grow better in Lake Erie 

North Shore than other regions? 

AC: Being so far south in Canada allows us 

to make some really big reds, like Cab Sauv 

in great years. It’s a tough variety to ripen in 

Ontario and I believe we have the best chance. 

I also like Sauv Blanc in Lake Erie North Shore 

because we can get some really pretty tropical 

notes, again because of the warmth. 

What advice do you have for a woman wanting to 

get involved in the wine business today? 

AC: Our industry is really fair towards women 

and there are lots of opportunities. Due to the 

creative nature of the job, women and men 

bring really different 

ideas, which is what 

we need to grow 

the Ontario wine 

industry. 

Does being a female 

have any bearing on 

winemaking? 

AC: Just in that we 

bring a different 

perspective to the 

process. I really 

think it takes both 

men and women working together to create 

the best wines. 

How do you maintain a work/life balance? 

AC: It’s still something I’m working on, to 

be honest. Harvest is such a busy time of 

year that it can be difficult to maintain a life 

outside of work so I end up scheduling simple 

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things like dinner or yoga classes like an 

appointment to keep myself accountable. You 

balance this out the rest of the year by taking 

more time for yourself. 

Anything else you would like to add? Proud 

moments at the winery? The Lily Sparkling Rosé? 

Any upcoming projects that you can share? 

AC: This past 

year we had the 

largest harvest 

we’ve ever done 

—50% more than 

last year, which 

was an enormous 

accomplishment 

for us. And yes, 

I am so proud of 

the Lily Rosé! I 

hope it’s a great 

example of Ontario 

sparkling wine! 

We are looking at some traditional method 

sparkling in the next few years, which should 

be exciting. 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who 

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com


Various Musical Notes 

Spring Is In the Air 

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene 


By GERRY BLACKWELL 

I 

come to herald the women of music this 

London springtime. All hail the players 

and singers, wild and gentle, soulful and 

sublime, who promise to wake us from 

our winter doldrums. Are you ready? 

If you’re reading this in early March, you 

can still catch Polaris Music Prize winner Lido 

Pimienta, one of the most 

intriguing young women in 

music today. The Colombian- 

Canadian singer-songwriter 

mixes Afro-Colombian 

and electronica with a bit 

of post-punk. Pimienta is 

one-of-a-kind: challenging, 

open-hearted, very 

talented. (Check her out on 

Soundcloud: goo.gl/gCMxL3.) 

March 7 at 7 p.m. (London 

Music Hall) 

A little later in March, a 

very famous musical woman is here. Girl, 

really — name of Dorothy, hails from Kansas? 

Broadway in London is bringing a traveling 

production of The Wizard Of Oz to town. It 

follows the movie closely, we’re told. (No 

reviews at time of writing.) March 24 at 7 

p.m. and March 25 at 1 p.m. 

(Budweiser Gardens) 

Tessmann and Karyn 

Ellis are a pair of beguiling 

up-and-comers, both folkies. 

Tessmann, from BC, has a 

couple of singer-songwriter 

awards to her credit. (goo.gl/ 

fLXzGX). Of Ellis, The Globe’s 

Brad Wheeler wrote, “This 

delicate, sweetly-melodic 

Toronto songstress needs to 

be heard.” Here’s the chance 

to do your part. (goo.gl/fLXzGX) April 5 at 8 

p.m. (London Music Club) 

A couple of days later London Music Hall 

offers a double bill with a bit more edge. 

Canadian singer/songwriter Lights (aka 

Valerie Anne Poxleitner), a girl-power popster 

who combines music and anime-style comic 

art, teams up with Vancouver-based Dear 

Rouge, husband-and-wife duo Drew and 

Danielle McTaggart. The McTaggarts play 

danceable synth-pop. Their big single, “I Heard 

Lido Pimienta 

I Had,” made it to number 

five on Canadian alternative 

and rock charts last year. 

(goo.gl/TGB92e) April 7 at 8 

p.m. (London Music Hall) 

Aeolian Hall takes over 

for a week or so, with a 

trio of concerts featuring 

great women of song. On 

April 11, jazzy Ellen Doty 

is in with her trio. Doty is 

launching her second album, 

Come Fall. Not straight-up 

jazz but an accessible mix 

of styles and influences. Two nights later, it’s 

Canadian-South African world music artist 

Lorraine Klaasen. A Tribute To Miriam 

Makeba, Klaasen’s most praised album, a Juno 

2013 winner, was her homage to an African 

music icon. Her latest is also rooted in African 

Ellen Doty 

traditions. Then it’s the 

Newfoundland-bred Ennis 

Sisters on April 19. The 

Ennises are promoting a new 

album, Stages, a return to 

their folk/Celtic roots after 

forays into pop and country. 

Ellen Doty, April 11 at 8 p.m. 

Lorraine Klaasen, April 13 at 

8 p.m. Ennis Sisters, April 19 

at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall) 

Members of the storied 

Chamber Music Society 

of Lincoln Center are making a once-in-bluemoon 

appearance. It’s another of the Jeffery 

Concerts, presented by the Gordon Jeffery 

Music Foundation. The program includes


seminal works in the chamber repertoire from 

Mozart, Weber and Brahms — a trio and two 

quintets. April 20 at 8 p.m. (Wolf Hall) 

MAZ 

Award-winning 

fusion of 

Trad, Jazz & 

Electro 

from Quebec 

World Music 

& 

Jazz Series 

’17–’18 

www.sunfest.on.ca 

Ensemble Vivant 

Jazz Tribute to Rick Wilkins 

acher Flyer (2016) 

Friday, March 9 Friday, March 23 

Juno Award 

From Scandinavia 

(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS) 

Winner 

Lorraine Fru Skagerrak 

ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new students Klaasen into professional music 

A London 

, active musician, established in Ennis the Sisters community Music Week 

Special Event 

al instruction The women of Scandinavian fiddle trio 

Friday, April 13 

ounding Fru Skagerrak to have gift are from of music Denmark, for Norway life / lifelong gift Alejandra of music 

and Sweden and play music from across the 

Ribera 

ome-based environment 

JR Ballroom 

region. If you like Celtic and Quebecois fiddle 

182 Dundas St 

orth music, location, you’ll convenient like Fru Skagerrak. to bus April routes 21 at 8 

londonmusichall.com 

ionate, 

p.m. 

kind, 

(Aeolian 

caring, 

Hall) 

nurturing, gentle, encouraging, understanding 

nservatory Exam Preparation 

y Piano Proficiency Preparation 

n Street 

4022 

Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center 

Sunfest is bringing singer-songwriter 

Alejandra Ribera to the Jack Richardson 

Ballroom. Ribera, of mixed Argentine and 

Scottish ancestry, is a rising star in Canadian 

jazz/pop. She’s been compared to Piaf, Bjork, 

Tom Waits. Yes, she has many moods. (Check 

her out: goo.gl/oeE9Q9.) April 28 at 8 p.m. 

(London Music Hall) 

Highway 7 should be clear by May 4. Why 

not drive to Stratford and take in a double bill? 

Saturday, April 21 

Juno Award 

Winner 

Kellylee 

Evans 

Saturday, April 28 Saturday, May 12 

All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm 

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St., London 

Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long &McQuade North, 

Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca 

Develop skills & a love for music 

PIANO LESSONS 

Alejandra Ribera 

Experienced Piano/Theory Teacher 

now accepting new students 

Individual Instruction for All Ages 

Compassionate, Caring, Encouraging 

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Royal Conservatory Exam Preparation 

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Beth Hickey, BA (MUS) 

North London 

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022


Oh Susanna 

This one pairs Toronto-based folk-popster Oh 

Susanna (singer-songwriter Suzie Ungerleider) 

with Sunparlour Players, a folk duo from 

down Leamington way. You could even get the 

dinner-and-a-show package. A good end to the 

week. May 4 at 8 p.m. (Revival House) 

But if you’re a Janis Joplin fan head to 

Aeolian Hall that night. Aeolian is presenting 

the first of a new “Lives Through” series of 

tribute concerts, this one featuring local blues 

singer Chuckee Zehr, of Chuckee and the 

Crawdaddies, in homage to Janis. (Note: if 

you’re a big Janis fan and a Netflix subscriber, 

check out the great doc Janis: Little Girl Blue.) 

May 4 at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall) 

Aeolian follows with two more great 


women of song. Canadian country up-andcomer 

Lindi Ortega, now of Nashville, is 

promoting her new EP, Til The Goin’ Gets 

Gone. Then Juno-nominated jazz cross-over 

artist Kellylee Evans appears in a come-back 

concert — she was out of commission for 

a few years after a freak accident. Evans is 

also promoting a new disc, Come On. C’mon. 

Give the ladies a big round of applause. Lindi 

Ortega, May 10 at 8 p.m. Kellylee Evans May 

12 at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall) 

Lindi Ortega 

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance 

writer. 

Enjoy the show! 

And read 

SINCE 

2007 

eatdrink 

THE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK MAGAZINE 

Because your night doesn’t begin 

& end in the theatre or concert hall... 

Pick up your free copy wherever discerning 

readers are found, or conveniently read our 

stories on your computer, tablet or phone. 

Get Connected! 

eatdrinkmag 

New & Revised! 

Restaurants and More ... 

Volume 6 of 

London’s Local Flavour 

In print or online! 

eatdrink.ca


Theatre 


A Most Auspicious Star 

Martha Henry Takes On Prospero at Stratford Festival 


It is a milestone year 

for the grand dame 

of Canadian theatre, 

Martha Henry. Not 

only did she gracefully turn 

80 in February, she is also 

celebrating being a leading 

lady by stepping onto the 

celebrated Stratford stage as 

a man. 

Henry is in rehearsals as 

Prospero in a new version 

of The Tempest, directed by 

Antoni Cimolino, Artistic 

Director for the Festival. 

“Antoni’s a hard man to turn Martha Henry 

down,” says Henry from her 

Stratford home on her reason to return to the 

stage as an octogenarian. “I’ve tried turning 

him down before. It just doesn’t seem to 

work,” she says with a little chuckle. Although 

it is hard to imagine Henry, who has achieved 

legendary status as an actor, artistic director 

and theatrical educator, not having the 

backbone to do as she pleases, she admits the 

lure of playing a major male Shakespearean 

role was very tempting. 

“While I am actually aware 

that I didn’t say yes, I am 

very aware that I never said 

no,” she explains. 

Interestingly, Henry is of 

two minds about a woman 

playing Prospero. She 

says that she believes that 

Shakespeare wrote roles 

for men and for women 

that were not meant to be 

interchanged. She has played 

many of the female roles 

now, except Juliette and 

Ophelia. Shakespeare “knew 

what men did and the way 

men thought and behaved, 

and he knew the same 

about women.” she says. 

However, upon reflection 

as a self-described “biggest 

fan” of Shakespeare, Henry 

realized she was perhaps 

selling Shakespeare short 

in her thinking. Historically, 

women were not 

allowed on the stage in 

Shakespeare’s time, and 

men played the roles of 

women. “I became aware he 

was writing [The Tempest] 

for all time and for me, 

right here and now.” 

So that became the basis 

for her reason to take on the role. There have 

been a few line changes and word changes 

such as he to she, father to mother, duke 

to duchess, but no other gender switches 

in the production. “It has turned out to be 

illuminating and quite delicious, actually,” 

she says. There have been several women in 

history to play the role, most notably Dame 

Helen Mirren in a film directed by Julie 

Taymor. Harriet Walker 

also played the role in 2017 

in New York. Both women 

were in their mid-sixties 

when they took on the role. 

Henry says she has no plans 

to retire and takes extra 

care and works regularly 

on her mobility and voice 

to prepare for the physical 

challenges of the stage. 

This will be Henry’s 44th 

season at Stratford. She has 

Martha Henry made her Stratford 

debut in 1962 as Miranda (here 

with Peter Donat as Ferdinand) in 

The Tempest.

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acted and directed, as well as being Director 

of the Birmingham Conservatory of Classical 

Theatre. 

She first visited Stratford to see Christopher 

Plummer play Hamlet when she was 15, 


York. She had met actors in Leamington, 

Ontario as a university student. They had 

encouraged her to look to Toronto for her 

career. Coincidentally in her first season at 

Stratford, 1962, she was also in The Tempest, as 

Prospero’s daughter Miranda. 

Henry feels that her age, more than 

gender, enhances her performance in the role, 

especially during the soliloquy, our revels are 

now ended… “Of course I’m different now than 

when I played Miranda. In a sense, I am now 

playing my own mother. Now I look at it from a 

different point of view.” Her plan is to leave the 

door open to the role and see what comes out 

the other end. She says she is approaching it 

with an open heart to see what happens. 

Henry says she never expected to be playing 

a leading male Shakespearean role. She says 

she questioned whether she was afraid, and 

decided to put herself up the challenge. “I 

began to be aware that Shakespeare himself 

was saying, of course it can be a woman. You 

just have to expand your imagination. So that 

is what I am in the process of doing now.” 

During her tenure in Ontario, Henry has 

served as the Artistic Director of The Grand in 

London. As well, she was named to the Order 

of Canada, the Order of Ontario, and is the 

recipient of the Governor General’s Performing 

Arts Award. She has embraced the Canadian 

stage and, in turn, the country has embraced 

her as one its own. Henry is a Canadian citizen. 

She is also the winner of Genie and Gemini 

awards for her 

work on the 

small screen 

and in films. 

She calls Canada 

her home, 

proclaiming 

how lucky she 

is to live here. 

We share that 

sentiment! 

Martha Henry as Prospero in Stratford Festival’s 

upcoming 2018 production of The Tempest. 

which motivated her to further understand 

Shakespeare. “These were brilliant actors who 

made this stuff come alive,” she says. She 

moved to Canada in 1959 from the Detroit 

area, to follow her passion for Canadian theatre 

over the uber-competitive scene of New 

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. 

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, 

at King’s University College in London.


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Books 

Alice’s Restaurant 

Coming to My Senses 

The Making of a Counterculture Cook 

by Alice Waters 


Review by DARIN COOK 

Alice Waters and Chez Panisse — a 

woman and her — restaurant 

are synonymous with North 

America’s most important food 

revolution. Coming to My Senses: The Making 

of a Counterculture Cook (Clarkson Potter, 

2017) is Alice’s memoir that shows how her 

upbringing, relationships, and travels shaped 

her into the chef and freethinker that inspired 

her to open a restaurant that shifted how 

food was viewed in the industry. The book is 

structured with the majority of the narrative 

following a chronological account of Alice’s 

early life, with more recent interrelated 

anecdotes from Chez Panisse interspersed 

throughout. The book covers her formative 

years in a swath of events with antiwar 

activists, political orators, hippie artists, free 

speech advocates, and international film 

directors, culminating in the opening night of 

Chez Panisse when she was 27. 

Growing up in the 1960s, the hippie vibe 

at Berkley helped define her just 

as much as her parents who 

taught her “morality, empathy, 

frugality, love of nature 

… all values adopted by the 

counterculture — because, 

sadly, they had been forgotten 

by the culture at large.” 

Her parents did not introduce 

her to the style of improvisational 

cooking with what is 

in season that Chez Panisse 

is famous for; family meals 

were vintage 1950s fare, 

with meat loaf and casseroles, 

along with periodic 

frozen treats from the Good 

Humour truck that drove 

down her 

street. During 

World War 

II, households 

were 

encouraged 

to grow 

gardens 

for the war 

effort and 

swap vegetables 

with 

neighbours 

to 

be more economical; 

her parents continued 

growing their victory garden well after 

wartime, which fostered Alice’s interest 

in fresh produce. She writes: “Some of the 

fundamental taste memories of my life 

are from the corn and tomatoes from that 

garden.” Her parents had been attentive to 

their own garden, and later that became 

instrumental in their daughter’s restaurant. 

As Chez Panisse was defining how it procured 

its food, their research of organic farms in 

southern California helped secure Bob 

Cannard as the source who has 

been supplying organic produce 

to the restaurant for 30 years. 

On her first trip to Paris, 

Alice developed a level of 

sophistication when selecting 

a restaurant, choosing what 

to eat based on the menus 

posted out front. She writes, 

“I’d never eaten like that 

before, and to eat with that 

Alice Waters kind of discernment made it


so much more delicious.” She fell so in love 

with French food that when she got back to 

the United States, the only way she could 

enjoy those flavors again was to learn how to 

make them herself. She was not conscious of 

being a cook yet, but she forced herself into 

it out of necessity to please her taste buds. 

Picking the right food was a strategy she 

learned in France but “the supermarkets of 

the mid- to late-1960s were all about frozen 

foods and canned goods — the exact opposite 

of the French markets, and I figured out 

pretty swiftly that they were to be avoided.” 

Freshness was important to her. She had 

learned to love salad in France and takes 

credit for bringing good salad to America, 

which essentially started with the mesclun 

mix she grew in her backyard in California 

with seeds from Nice. Alice tells a great story 

in Coming to my Senses about being the only 

woman representing the top twenty-five 

restaurants in the United States (Chez Panisse 

was seventh on the list) with each restaurant 

making extravagant dishes at an exclusive 

New York fete. Alice presented a simple salad 

that was the talk of the town the next day. 

Attention to detail in menu design was also 

important to Alice because, “it’s a visual cue, 

a way of preparing the room to bring people 

fully into the experience. When something is 

well printed and well designed, even a menu, 

people take it more seriously. It has a presence 

and reflects on what they’re about to eat.” Her 

approach to staffing the restaurant was a bit 

unorthodox, not necessarily looking at skills 

first. “It was not about a job description,” she 

writes, “it was about looking for interesting 

people who could breathe life into the 

restaurant.” 

Alice never had formal training as a chef, 

but she learned from friends who knew 

what to do in the kitchen, as she relentlessly 

pursued flavour above all else. As she writes, 

“Eating is an everyday experience, and 

the decisions we make about what we eat 

have daily consequences. And those daily 

consequences can change the world.” Chez 

Panisse introduced a new paradigm in food 

philosophy and the world was changed when 

Alice opened her restaurant. 

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer residing in Chatham- 

Kent who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting 

the bookstores and restaurants of London. 

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market 

am pm, until March 24 

Enjoy our outdoor Farmers’ Market 

indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine. 

We grow it, raise it, make it & bake it 

— local produce, meat, cheese 

and more! Vendor Sampling 

takes place on the main floor, 

Centre Court, 10am–1pm. 

FREE Cooking Classes run from 11am–noon 

upstairs in the Market Kitchen. 

Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market 

Saturday, March 31, 8am–1pm 

Our annual Easter celebration, outside 

on the Market Square. 

Our Outdoor Farmers’ Market 

starts Saturday, May 5 

Corrigan School of Irish Dancing 

St. Patrick’s Day, Saturday, March 17 

There will be a 20-minute performance 

on the Mezzanine at 10am. 

FREE PARKING 

With Validation 

Half Hour Weekdays 

Market Hours 

Monday to Saturday 

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


Recipes 

Farm to Chef 

Cooking Through the Seasons 

By Lynn Crawford 


Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

been watching Chef 

seasonal emphasis does 

Lynn Crawford on 

focus on fresh vegetables 

television for years, 

but there are enough 

I’ve 

as she has helped 

hearty, meaty dishes and 

struggling restaurants, judged 

competitions and battled Iron 

Chefs. I’ve always felt that we 

see her at her best when she is 

travelling the country meeting 

and showcasing the best food 

producers Canada has to 

offer. From fishing boats to 

pie contests to orchards and 

farms, Chef Lynn reminds 

us all that the best of the 

best can be found here in our own country. 

In true Canadian fashion, she has managed 

this with good humour and sometimes a wink 

at her own dignity. 

Her third cookbook, Farm to Chef: Cooking 

Through the Seasons (Penguin Canada; 2017) 

is a National Winner for Gourmand World 

Cookbook Awards 2017 — Women Chef. In 

it, she continues her message of enjoying the 

simple goodness of local food. Her recipes 

never feel contrived, they just bring together 

the best ingredients in ways 

that make perfect sense. Every 

recipe feels like it should start 

with a drive to the market, and 

end at the cottage. 

She shares 140 recipes and 

any of them would be equally 

at home on a restaurant 

menu or on the table at 

grandma’s house. The dishes 

are organized by the peak 

season of the ingredients, and 

photographed beautifully by 

Virginia Macdonald. There 

are nearly enough pictures in 

light, delicious desserts 

to satisfy any appetite. 

Cocktails and condiments 

are an added bonus. 

Though it’s easy to get 

asparagus all year round 

now, it’s best to enjoy it the 

way I did as a kid: way too 

much of it, for far too short 

a time, when it’s in season. 

Raw Asparagus Salad with Pine 

Nuts, Parmesan and Lemon 

Herb Yogurt is a beautiful way to enjoy this 

fleeting spring vegetable. Crisp stalks are 

topped with crunchy, rich pine nuts and 

Parmesan cheese, then dressed with tangy 

yogurt complimented by fresh herbs. It’s 

topped with the bittersweet knowledge that 

you will eat it until you are full to the gills and 

will miss it again soon. 

I remember when I was little hearing my 

aunts talk about the odd foods they would eat 

as kids. Radish sandwiches was 

one, and it kind of horrified me 

at the time. But as I grew up I 

discovered that they were right 

about some of those “weird” 

foods. Crawford’s recipe for 

Radish Sandwiches with Ramp 

Butter is a slightly fancier 

version. Maybe I’ll make some 

for my mom this spring and 

watch her reaction. 

I try to showcase seasonal 

recipes in my reviews because 

no one comes here looking for 

Christmas cake in March, but 

this book, even for me. The 

Lynn Crawford some books make that difficult.


Tempura Broccoli with Coconut Peanut Sauce 

isn’t technically a spring recipe but I thought 

it was delicious enough to include. Tempura 

is a wonderful dish that can be revised to suit 

almost any vegetable in any season. I picture 

making this with asparagus or young beans in 

the spring, zucchini in the summer and sweet 

potatoes and broccoli in the fall. The sweet, 

spicy Coconut Peanut Sauce would work with 

fresh spring rolls at any time. 

Reading Farm to Chef is like taking a road 

trip with a bunch of friends. You’re not sure 


what adventures lie ahead but you know you’ll 

enjoy every step. 

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in 

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Excerpted from Farm to Chef: Cooking Through the 

Seasons. Copyright © 2017 by Lynn Crawford. Published 

by Penguin, an imprint of Penguin Canada, a division of 

Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by 

arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved. 

Raw Asparagus Salad 

With Pine Nuts, Parmesan and Lemon Herb Yogurt 

This is one of my favourite ways to enjoy asparagus when 

it’s at the peak of its season — raw and simply dressed in 

this fresh and easy salad. 

Serves 4 

LEMON HERB YOGURT 

½ cup (125 mL) plain Greek yogurt 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) thyme leaves 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) flat-leaf parsley 

leaves 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped chives 

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper 

RAW ASPARAGUS SALAD 

1 pound (450 g) asparagus, trimmed 

4 cups (1 L) frisée leaves 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra-virgin 

olive oil 

Juice of ½ lemon 


TO SERVE 

¼ cup (60 mL) shaved Parmesan cheese 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) toasted pine nuts 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped 

chives 

MAKE THE LEMON HERB YOGURT 

1 Place yogurt, lemon juice, lemon zest, 

thyme, parsley and chives in a blender and 

process until blended. Season to taste with 

salt and pepper. 

PREPARE THE RAW ASPARAGUS 

SALAD 

2 Using a vegetable peeler, slice asparagus 

spears lengthwise into thin ribbons. Place 

in a large bowl and add frisée, olive oil and 

lemon juice. Toss to coat. Season to taste 

with salt and pepper. 

3 Spoon Lemon Herb Yogurt onto a chilled 

serving dish. Top with asparagus- frisée 

mixture, then with Parmesan, pine nuts and 

chives.


Radish Sandwiches with Ramp Butter 

This is a classic French way of serving radishes, 

simple and yet so good. The watery, crisp bite of 

the radishes contrasted with the creamy richness 

of the ramp butter and the crackly dry crunch of 

the salt is a match made in heaven. 

Serves 6 to 8 

RAMP BUTTER 

Makes about 2 cups (500 mL) 

½ pound (225 g) ramps, bulbs removed (about 

20 ramps) 

1 pound (450 g) unsalted butter, at room 

temperature 

2 teaspoons (10 mL) honey 

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 


RADISH SANDWICHES 

1 baguette, cut in half horizontally 

2 cloves garlic, cut in half 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil 

12 radishes, very thinly sliced 


Basil seedlings or leaves, for garnish 

Maldon sea salt and cracked black pepper 


MAKE THE RAMP BUTTER 

1 Blanch ramps in boiling salted water for 1 minute. 

Transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain and squeeze out 

excess water. Spread ramps on paper towel and pat dry. 

2 Coarsely chop ramps and place in a food processor along 

with the butter, honey and lemon zest and juice. Process 

until butter is smooth. Season to taste with salt and 

pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator 

for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months. 

ASSEMBLE THE RADISH SANDWICHES 

3 Set oven to broil or preheat a grill to medium-high 

heat. 

4 Rub cut sides of baguette with garlic cloves and brush 

lightly with olive oil. Lightly toast under a hot broiler 

or on a hot grill. 

5 Toss radishes with salt and pepper to taste in a medium 

bowl. Spread Ramp Butter on each half of baguette. Top 

bottom half of baguette with radish slices and basil; 

season with sea salt and pepper. Top with other half of 

baguette, cut on the diagonal into small sandwiches 

and serve.



Tempura Broccoli with Coconut Peanut Sauce 

I like to think that eating fried vegetables is a 

healthy sin, and I love that you can tempura-fry 

any kind of vegetable. This is an excellent recipe 

to pull out when friends are over. Packed with the 

bold flavours of ginger, lemongrass and chilies, 

it’s a real crowd-pleaser! 

Serves 4 

COCONUT PEANUT SAUCE 

1 tablespoon (15) canola oil 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) minced peeled fresh 

ginger 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced shallot 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced lemongrass 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced Fresno chili 

1 can (14 ounces/400 mL) coconut milk 

½ cup (125 mL) peanut butter 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) soy sauce 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) sambal oelek 

Zest and juice of 1 lime 

TEMPURA BROCCOLI 

½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour 

2 tablespoons (30 mL) cornstarch 

1 to 1⅓ cups (250 to 325 mL) sparkling water 

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 

1 head broccoli, florets cut into spears 


TO SERVE 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped roasted peanuts 

1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped cilantro 

1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced Fresno chili 

MAKE THE COCONUT PEANUT SAUCE 

1 In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat oil. Add 

ginger, shallot, lemongrass and chili and cook for 2 

minutes, stirring constantly. Add coconut milk, peanut 

butter, soy sauce, sambal oelek and lime zest and juice; 

whisk to combine. Cook sauce until thoroughly heated, 

then transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature. 

PREPARE THE TEMPURA BROCCOLI 

2 In a deep, narrow bowl, whisk together flour, 

cornstarch and enough sparkling water to achieve a 

consistency like crêpe batter. 

3 In a deep medium saucepan, heat 4 inches (10 cm) of oil 

to 375°F (190°C). 

4 Working in batches, dip broccoli spears one at a time 

into batter, then carefully place in hot oil and fry until 

crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. With a slotted 

spoon, transfer broccoli to paper towel to drain and 

season lightly with salt and pepper. Repeat with 

remaining broccoli spears. 

5 Garnish tempura broccoli with peanuts, cilantro and 

chili, and serve immediately with Coconut Peanut 

Sauce.


The Lighter Side 

The Cup that Cheers 


By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD 

The history of tea is an intriguing 

blend of rituals, strong opinions, 

and hierarchy. Whether you put 

the milk in first — apparently, the 

ultimate class betrayer since it suggests that 

somewhere in one’s background there was 

only sub-quality crockery available (say, a 

jam jar perhaps) that could easily crack with 

the shock of scalding tea — or 

you prefer it sweet and iced, 

it’s the humble drink that 

many of us will turn to 

automatically in times of 

misery, illness and polite 

introductions. 

But the basic comfort 

of a cuppa goes way 

beyond this; tea is also a 

universal social “loosener.” 

Not in the same way 

as alcohol of course, 

but the very act of 

tea drinking can 

encourage sharing. 

One of my best friends 

in high school had a 

“cool mum” and much 

of this reputation was 

gained by her bringing 

up a large footed tray on 

post-pub Sunday morning sleepovers. She 

provided a fat pot of tea, thick slabs of toast 

and three china mugs. There was also a glass 

dome of marmalade, linen napkins and dark 

inky Marmite. As we gratefully poured, any 

teenage attitude fell away and this brilliant 

woman skillfully formed a composite picture 

of what we’d been up to. Without asking a 

single question. 

Another favourite tea scenario also features 

a friend’s mother, interestingly, but this time 

from another culture. Every day after school, 

this wonderful woman — often resplendent 

in a turquoise and gold sari — would be 

smiling as she swirled freshly crushed spices 

into a saucepan brimming with hot milk 

and tea bags, steaming and fragrant as we 

came through the door. We then all sat down 

together — with a revolving selection of 

family members — and began sharing our day 

quite naturally, in the comfortably established 

ritual of passing spicy chick peas and ginger 

snaps, and sipping frothy Chai. 

But perhaps the most epic cup 

of tea I have ever had — before or 

since — was delivered to me (pun 

absolutely intended) after I gave 

birth to my first son. As I struggled 

with tears of exhaustion, joy and 

pulsating anxiety (perhaps 

a heady combination of 

all three!) an older nurse 

appeared with a heavy 

gauge hospital tea 

cup and placed it 

beside me. As I 

began to shakily sip 

the scalding, sweet 

tea I began to revive 

and could feel myself 

unfold a bit. 

“It’s just the thing, 

isn’t it?” she smiled, 

patting my hand. And my 

eyes welled up with her kindness. 

I know and understand that tea drinking 

has since become quite trendy (and possibly 

less sentimental) and certainly, there are 

knowledgeable tea sommeliers ready to offer 

advice and samples. I bow to their expertise 

and appreciate the guidance in trying 

something new. But for me, the most valued 

and elusive infusion of all will always be 

derived from the tea makers themselves — 

because it’s the taste of caring. 

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and 

regular contributor to eatdrink. Read more of Sue’s work 

on her blog www.speranzanow.com



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Eatdrink #70 March/April 2018

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