Eatdrink #70 March/April 2018

Issue #70 | March/April 2018

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

FREE

The

Women’s

Issue

Dedication

Perspiration

Motivation

Inspiration

Hospitality

Alieska Robles from

The Forest City Cookbook

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007

www.eatdrink.ca

2 | March/April 2018

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www.idlewyldinn.com

eatdrink

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine

eatdrinkmag

@eatdrinkmag

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Think Global. Read Local.

Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy

Writers

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,

Tanya Chopp, Darin Cook, Gary Killops,

Bryan Lavery, Nancy Loucks-McSloy,

Tracy Turlin, Sue Sutherland-Wood

Photographers Nick Lavery, Steve Grimes

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

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We want your

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and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca

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OUR COVER

Alieska Robles, the driving

force behind The Forest

City Cookbook, holds a

pineapple — a traditional

symbol of hospitality — in

an enthusiastic self-portrait.

Photo by Alieska Robles

(alieskarobles.com)

© 2018 Eatdrink Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in Eatdrink

or on Eatdrink.ca is strictly prohibited without the written permission

of the Publisher. Eatdrink has a printed circulation of 20,000

issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed

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Eatdrink or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not

necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes

submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

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Contents

Issue #70 | March/April 2018

The Women’s Issue

Publisher’s Notes

The Women’s Issue

A Challenging Task We’re Pleased

to Take On

By CHRIS MCDONELL

8

Spotlight

Women with a Seat at the Table

Six of Stratford's Culinary Influencers

By TANYA CHOPP

10

Grow... Cook... Host...

Five Key Women

from Huron and Lambton Counties

By JANE ANTONIAK

16

London Women in Food

Culinary, Hospitality and Agricultural

Industry Drivers

By BRYAN LAVERY

22

Road Trips

A Love Affair

with Southampton

By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY

34

The BUZZ

Culinary Community Notes

38

50

10

53

56

34

Various Musical Notes

Spring is in the Air

Upcoming Highlights

on the Music Scene

By GERRY BLACKWELL

50

Theatre

A Most Auspicious Star

Martha Henry Takes on Prospero

at Stratford Festival

By JANE ANTONIAK

53

Books

Coming to My Senses

by Alice Waters

Review by DARIN COOK

56

Recipes

Farm to Chef

by Lynn Crawford

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

58

The Lighter Side

The Cup that Cheers

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD

62

Wine

For The Love of Wine

A Conversation with Winemaker

Allison Christ

By GARY KILLOPS

48

48

58

62


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Publisher’s Notes


The Women’s Issue

A Challenging Task We’re Pleased to Take On

By CHRIS McDONELL

There has not been a single issue of

Eatdrink ever published that didn’t

include important contributions

from women. For over a decade, in

the stories we share, and behind the scenes,

women’s voices, talents and values have

helped shape the magazine. That has been

entirely intentional. This begs the question:

Then why this special issue?

While this idea has floated around here for

years, it was the closure of the Women’s Lifestyle

Show (WLS) in 2016 that prompted me to

act. For many years, Eatdrink helped coordinate

the Cooking Stage at WLS, and that March

weekend helped define our March/April publication.

All good things do end, but when WLS

ran its course, we really missed it in 2017.

Our first Women’s Issue was planned for

2018, timed to coincide with International

Women’s Day on March 8. We have

received nothing but confirmation that

we are on the right track.

We discovered that 2018 marked the

centennial anniversary of women’s suffrage

— their right to vote — in Canada.

The #metoo movement, The Globe &

Mail’s “Unfounded” stories uncovering

police dismissal of an alarming number

of sexual assault cases without proper

investigation, and allegations of sexual

abuse and impropriety arising almost daily

against high-profile figures in film, television,

music, theatre, industry, politics and almost

every aspect of human activity have put “women’s

issues” on the front burner, steaming hot.

While controversy has definitely been part of

the conversation, I hasten to add that I believe

this is all a good thing. I won’t steal the thunder

from the women who speak on the following

pages, but — clearly — our society is reconciling

longstanding problems that should never be

tolerated by good people. We should do better,

we can do better, we are doing better. Eatdrink

applauds that, with an issue meant to celebrate

gains that women have made, and acknowledge

that the world of food and drink that we are

immersed in here is not immune to problems of

inequality and disadvantages for women.

Of course, we immediately had what I would

call “a good problem” on our hands. We are a

small magazine with finite resources, and there

is no way for us to muster the required pages

to celebrate all the women we started listing. I

have no doubt we could fill every page just with

the names. So this is just a start, a new tradition

that we will look forward to every year.

We’ve done our best to be representative of

so many groups, but I think of women such as

Nancy Hotson, proprietor of Stratford’s oldest

coffee shop, The Buzz Stop on York St.,

and purveyor of (shhh!) fine cigars. And

the myriad longtime servers keeping a

smile on their face night after night.

We’re missing those who are somewhat

backstage, the glue that holds so many

businesses together while hardly being

noticed. I will work on a way to celebrate

them better next year.

The next question regarded who to

put on the cover. I’m happy that the

honour fell to Alieska Robles, whose

energy for The Forest City Cookbook

(excitedly anticipated for release later

this spring) has galvanized London’s

culinary community this year. Alieska,

who is a passionate proponent of local cuisine,

holds the centuries-old symbol of hospitality:

a pineapple. We all are aware that pineapples

do not grow in Ontario! The tradition, I

understand, arose because this fruit was so

delicious but rare that its presentation was

a sign that no expense or trouble had been

spared by one’s host. My hope is that this issue

speaks to that as well. We have done our best

to support and celebrate the women in our

community, and I hope you enjoy our efforts.

HOPE MADE DELICIOUS

WEDNESDAY APRIL 25

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Where will you dine?

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25% des ventes seront

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10 | March/April 2018

Spotlight


Women with a Seat at the Table

Six of Stratford’s Culinary Influencers

Talk Food and Female Entrepreneurship

By TANYA CHOPP

Over the past decade Eatdrink writers

have been informing us about the

men and women, organizations and

businesses that contribute to the

culinary character of our region.

Perhaps there’s something in the water —

Perth County (and Stratford in particular) seems

to have produced more than its fair share of

successful women. Not all have achieved the

renown of Stratford Chefs School co-founder

Eleanor Kane, or others of her ilk. The list of

women who have influenced and supported

innumerable others in the culinary sphere, and

who continue to affect culinary developments in

the region, would be a long one.

Eatdrink writer Tanya Chopp spoke with

some of the women about their work,

passions, and creativity, about gender in the

workplace, and about their advice to anyone

considering pursuing their own dreams.

These interviews have been condensed and

edited. The full conversations are available

online at eatdrink.ca

French, Italian and Asian influences, but

ultimately, we serve what we want to eat, and

aim to create big, full flavours.

About Women in the Culinary Scene:

Women have resilience. We can keep going

even when it’s difficult or frustrating, and

actually draw from it. It’s so important that

when women are at the helm, they don’t crush

their natural instincts and behave like they

think men do.

Advice: Be unrelenting. When someone

says “No,” or “I need more information,” be

prepared to follow through and do it.

Jessie Votary

Co-Owner/Co-Founder, The Red Rabbit &

Okazu

About Co-Owning The Red Rabbit: We built the

Red Rabbit with our bare hands and passion. I’m

proud that it’s a worker-owned business. We’re

able to offer our workers competitive wages,

benefits and year-round employment. We’re also

very community-oriented. I’m on the BIA board,

and we participate in a number of food related

events for fundraising, like Lawn Summer

Nights for Cystic Fibrosis.

About the Food: We create with quality

ingredients and care. We believe in integrity

— both in the food and beverages we serve

and how we operate. Our menu has classic

Jessie Votary


March/April 2018 | 11

Advice: There are two sides to successfully run

an operation: you have to create with passion,

but you also have to run a business. Find what

you do, and do it well. Also, make sure you

have a good team and look after them.

Kristene Steed

Kristene Steed

Co-Owner, Rhéo Thompson Candies

About Co-Owning Rhéo Thompson: As a

co-owner, you wear a lot of hats. Mark looks

after the production. He’s one of our three

candymakers and runs the administrative

side of the business. I look after the front

end, including merchandising, packaging,

procurement, HR, marketing and anything

else public-facing. We have 27 full-time

employees and we succeed because of all of

their hard work. We give our best every day.

About the Food: We produce 152 different

types of candies and chocolates throughout

the year. We’re creative, but we’re consistent.

We want our products to taste like what

people first fell in love with. The Mint

Smoothies chocolates are incredibly popular.

Around St. Patrick’s Day we also create Irish

Potatoes, which have buttercream centres that

get pressed and rolled in fresh cinnamon.

About Women in the Culinary Scene: The

neat part about Stratford is that there is

an integration of both men and women in

business. While it’s true that women are

intuitive and empathetic, that’s not to say that

men aren’t too. I’ve worked with wonderful

people, of both genders, and I really value that.

Jacqueline Barr

Co-Owner, Chocolate Barr’s Candies

About Co-Owning Chocolate Barr’s: We’ve

had our business for 15 years, and work seven

days a week. Four years ago we purchased

and renovated our own building and I was

able to put my stamp on it, design-wise, from

the flow of the storefront, to the extra large

window in the back to see the candy making,

to the “Sweet” sign that lights up the front.

About the Food: My husband, Derek [candy

maker and chocolatier] will talk your ear off

about chocolate and candy. I’ve made my

own line of “Jack’s Barrs” that have different

toppings. The most popular is a 70% dark

chocolate bar with salt, pepper, almond butter

crunch, and pecans.

About Women in the Culinary Scene: The

people who I admire the most are my closest

friends, who all have three or four kids, and

for the most part run their own businesses

that they have also started. They make it look

easy. My staff is the best, and we couldn’t do it

without them.

Advice: Owning your own business is very

rewarding, but not for everyone. It is a seven

days a week, 365 days a year worry. But when

you get it right, you can be proud.

Jacqueline Barr

and husband Derek Barr

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Carrie Wreford

Co-Owner, Bradshaws and Kitchen Detail

Carrie Wreford

About Co-Owning Bradshaws: Before

Bradshaws I was a graphic designer and my

husband Jeremy was a set designer. At the

company my role is varied, but my primary

focus is buying (alongside Jeremy), as well as

marketing, social media, community outreach

and events.

About the Business: Our business is 123 years

old and has been family-run for six generations

— that’s unusual in today’s retail environment.

We had to determine where we wanted to take

the business and breathe life into it so it would

remain relevant and viable for years to come.

About Women in the Culinary Scene: When

people talk about our store, they mention many

of our staff as the reason why they shop here.

Our business is run by a team of women who are

incredible at what they do. Out of 20 of us, 17 are

women. The women in Stratford are incredible.

I’ve made so many incredible partnerships and

friendships and have learned so much from

everyone else. People [and business owners] are

interested in collaborating. It’s very important

for women to lift each other up and motivate

each other and support each other.

Advice: Put in the time and get your hands

dirty before you jump in. Find a mentor and/


or people you respect and admire and find

a way to work with them. Learn from them

until you’re ready to create your own vision.

Yva Santini

Chef, Pazzo Taverna

About Being a Chef: I started cooking and

working in kitchens when I was very young. I’m

going on close to 18 years in the industry now.

I graduated from the Stratford Chef School in

2009, and this is my eleventh year at Pazzo’s

and my seventh year as the chef. Being part of

a business based on people’s enjoyment is very

complex and it’s not easy, but I know that the

food that we’re making makes people happy

and there’s a lot of positive feedback.

About the Food: Our pasta program has been

refined and expanded. I grew up in an Italian

family and I strive to capture the essence of

Italian culture. What we have to offer in terms

of Italian in-house made pastas is the best in

the city. While we are “all Italian,” we have a

little French and Canadian influence too. During

the later winter our menu will still be Romanfocused,

incorporating Pecorino Romano, meat,

eggs, rich flavours and black pepper. Marsh

marigolds, fiddleheads and asparagus will start

to make an appearance by early spring.

Yva Santini


About Women in the Culinary Scene: Gender

politics are delicate, but shouldn’t be ignored.

I’m fortunate to have had an opportunity to

work with very wonderful and supportive

people, with influential men and women who

are friends, family, and business owners.

Advice: Respect is the number one thing.

Respect others and respect yourself too. If

you’re in a situation that’s not moving you

forward, you’re not obligated to stay.

Candice Wigan

Co-Owner, Revival House

On Co-Owning Revival House: After many

years in the industry, this is a place we could

make our own and get into what we’ve always

wanted to. I come from a French background,

and always dreamed of French cuisine. Revival

House has this beautiful grandeur to it — it

was built in 1867. Last year, we hosted 35

weddings and 20 concerts and we have quite a

few shows coming up this spring.

About the Food: We change our menu ever

four to five months and ensure it’s always

approachable, and accessible to every price

point — from duck confit to poutine. Chef

Loreena Miller, a Stratford Chef School

graduate, is open-minded and accepts

suggestion. We grow all of the herbs in-house

and we believe in sourcing locally. Perth County

is so rich. As a bar chef, I also love creating

elegant, fresh and seasonal cocktails, and wine

is also a passion. I have my Level 1 Sommelier.

About Women in the Culinary Scene: We

need to surround ourselves with more women.

I feel empowered by them and I’m always

learning from them. I work with two strong,

independent women: Alysha Ford, event

coordinator, and Chef Loreena Miller. They are

Candice Wigan

March/April 2018 | 15

an everyday inspiration. We teach and learn

from one another, and don’t get off guard.

Advice: Don’t be afraid to be calculating or to

say “no” when something doesn’t serve you.

It means you’re organized, and well-thoughtout.

My mother also always said, “Make sure

you love your job; it makes your life so much

easier.”

TANYA CHOPP is a local writer and communications

professional who enjoys exploring and writing on topics

related to local food and culture, humour and fitness.

Read Tanya Chopp’s full interviews of " Women with a Seat

at the Table" online at eatdrink.ca

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16 | March/April 2018


Spotlight

Grow... Cook... Host...

Five Key Women from Huron & Lambton Counties

By JANE ANTONIAK

When we went looking for leading

women in Huron & Lambton

Counties’ culinary community,

we got some curious reactions.

The fact is that women have been leaders in

food agriculture, cuisine and hospitality in the

area for decades. There are so many examples

that we can’t possibly include them all. But

let’s start at ground level, where the rich soil

and kind winds have made Huron County

nature’s vegetable basket.

Jackie Rowe

Jackie Rowe says she started as “one woman

in the kitchen,” with a business model to

grow, process and distribute healthy Ontario

garlic products. “The Garlic Box name and

idea literally sprouted from the dirt in 1997,

as a venue to help sell and stabilize our areagrown

garlic. During this 20-year journey,

we have transitioned to a small enterprise

team, which processes more than 42 different

SKUs of product made with local garlic and

manages multiple distribution channels. We

retail to more than 600 stores Canada-wide,”

says Rowe from her Hensall headquarters

on Highway 4 north of Exeter. Hensall was

chosen for its close proximity to the garlic

fields and to her home farm, and for business

reasons. “Equally important is the hub of agribusiness

in Huron County with [affordable]

Jackie Rowe

taxes and good highways for transportation.

For our value-added food business, it is the

perfect incubating community to thrive in.”

As an early female businessperson in

Huron, Rowe looked a bit further than

Huron for women mentors. She says she has

a trusted mentor in Marilyn Rootham of

Rootham Gourmet Preserves in Guelph. More

recently she has been following, digitally,

Arlene Dickinson of CBC’s Dragon’s Den who

is, as Rowe says, “bullish on Canadian health

and food-based companies.”

Liz Ihrig

Liz Ihrig, co-owner of Hessenland Country

Inn near Zurich and St. Joseph, is an

exceptional host/manager of the Inn’s special

events, which also

use the talents

of her husband,

chef and co-owner

Frank Ihrig. The

Hessenland serves

unique wine

dinners in the new

vineyard, offers a

fabulous outdoor

Mongolian Grill

each summer,

and Liz and her

team host dozens

of weddings and

other events

which feature

outstanding local

Liz Ihrig

food. She came to Huron from the corporate

hotel world of Toronto, “first and foremost...

[for] Frank” she says with a laugh. “It became

apparent that this was not only a good move

for my career but also to be with Frank and to

start a life together working at Hessenland.”

Ihrig says she has been fortunate to

have been guided in the business by her

mother-in-law, Christa Ihrig. Christa and


her late husband Ernst bought the Inn after

immigrating to Canada from Germany. They

turned it over to Liz and Frank, who have

grown the business. Liz says she loves how

community-minded Huron county citizens

are. “Although it is such an expansive

geographical area it is still a small town

community ready to help and support you

wherever and whenever.” Liz turns to local

farmers for their produce and livestock, and

also to share their knowledge.

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh was also a

newcomer to Huron County when she and

her husband Ted McIntosh purchased the

Admiral in 2005, re-opening it as The Black

Dog Bistro. She is certainly not a newcomer

to the culinary scene. She is the author of

nine cookbooks, and it was cookbook writing

that brought the couple to Huron County.

“We came to Bayfield to research a book I

was working on — Simply the Best: Food &

Wine from Ontario’s Finest Inns. We didn’t so

much choose the village of Bayfield outright

as the building chose us. It was hard work

but we knew exactly what we wanted and we

didn’t deviate from that vision: hold onto the

original character as much as possible, reclaim

any original materials wherever we could and

ensure that the room had warmth and the

charm that stems from a worn, but brushed

up, patina,” she says.

Sloan-McIntosh (inspired by her own

mother who was trained in England and

worked in service as a professional cook

and baker) established the menus for The

Black Dog. “We like to think we take our

inspiration from gastro-pubs in the U.K.

but retain a thoroughly Canadian identity,”

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh

(with husband Ted McIntosh)

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she says. She worked alongside her stepson

Andrew, and kitchen staff, until she was able

to step aside from the Bistro kitchen after

a few years to open The Pantry. The shop

offered a wide variety of cheeses, culinary

supplies, fresh breads and more. Although

very popular, it was closed to make room for

an auxiliary kitchen for The Black Dog, which

remains one of the most popular Bistro’s in

Huron County. Sloan-McIntosh’s daughter

Alysa King now runs the front-of-house for

The Black Dog, as well as managing her own

company, Bayfield Provisions.

Erryn Shephard

Erryn Shephard technically does not operate

in Huron County, her stellar kitchen is so close

to the boundary of Huron and Lambton that

she merits inclusion in this article. For 13 years

Shephard has worked diligently with her longtime

co-chef Ben Sandwith, and with passion

for local food, at F.I.N.E., a Restaurant While

Erryn Shephard technically does not operate

in Huron County, her stellar kitchen is so close

to the boundary of Huron and Lambton that

she merits inclusion in this article. For 13 years

Shephard has worked diligently with her longtime

co-chef Ben Sandwith, and with passion

for local food, at F.I.N.E., a Restaurant on

18 | March/April 2018


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Shephard speaks for many when she says she

would welcome being a mentor to others. “I am all

for having females in this business. But it is a hard

line ... too long hours, weekends, holidays and just

the physical nature of it doesn’t make it the most

attractive choice. But having done this all my life,

it has been so rewarding, and hatching the idea of

my own little restaurant has been amazing.”

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink. She

is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations, at King’s

University College in London.

Erryn Shephard

Highway 21 in Grand Bend. Shephard

was raised in the area and after

training in the US (where she was the

only female in her class) she decided

to come home. “To have staying power

is a tricky thing as this business is

very fickle, but this is a great tourist

area which benefits everyone here. We

work very hard and put out a great

product. Our motto is “focus and keep

it simple.” I also think community

involvement is huge, and I try to do

what I can in that department, it all

helps to get our name out there,”

she says. F.I.N.E. supports breast

cancer research with two evenings

dedicated to fundraising. Shephard

is also a strong supporter of local

artists, showcasing their works in the

restaurant. “We are like a little family

here. The ability to swing with the food

trends and listen to our market is very

important. Because we are so small we

can do lots of neat things. But still, in

the end our customers have to like it.

Ben and I were trained classically but

this is a rural beach community so we

try to keep it interesting and current,

drawing on the knowledge that we

have acquired over the years.”

Without a doubt Huron has strong

women leading the culinary scene,

with these being just a few examples.

Tania Auger

Tania Auger, a born bon vivant, knew from an early

age that she and the hospitality business were made

for each other. She arrived in London in the early

1980s and worked in a variety of notable restaurants

as a bartender.

In 1988 Auger

leased the

Ritz Hotel in

Bayfield where

she opened

the Shark Inn.

This paved

the way for

Auger to open

the legendary

99 King a

year later.

Her success

contributed

to helping

King Street

evolve into the

restaurant row

Tania Auger

it has become.

Auger

hired uberchef

Jacqui Shantz for the long-run period. After a

decade, in 1997, Auger returned to her hometown of

Sarnia and opened several new enterprises, including

the Smoked Oyster and Red Tango, a restaurant/

nightclub. Following the events of September 11,

2001, Sarnia, like other Canadian border cities, felt

the effects on trade. Undeterred, and never one to

look backwards, Auger regrouped, conceived and

conceptualized Lola’s Lounge on Christina Street in

2002. It continues to be an iconic downtown Sarnia

hotspot 16 years later.

— Bryan Lavery

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22 | March/April 2018


Spotlight

London Women in Food

Culinary, Hospitality and Agricultural Industry Drivers

By BRYAN LAVERY

The restaurant industry has been

notorious for keeping the artistry

of women chefs on the back burner,

so to speak. London’s culinary

scene has never had a lack of hard working,

dedicated women in class rooms, kitchens,

on farms, in fields, at markets and in retail,

and that remains true today. While there

are too many women to mention in this

space, I am pleased to highlight a few of the

remarkable leaders in our culinary, hospitality

and agricultural industries. Though far

from comprehensive, this alphabetical list

represents some of the amazing women who

are currently driving the London food scene.

Entrepreneur Val Andrews

Val Andrews, owner/operator of The Harvest

Pantry at the Market at Western Fair, is a

culinary professional bringing over 30 years

of experience to her craft. Passionate about

food, she has been cooking and preserving

since she was old enough to stand on a stool

and stir the

contents of

a pot. Since

graduating

from George

Brown

College

Culinary

Arts

Program in

1984 she has

worked as a

food service

manager,

cooking and

preserving

instructor,

caterer,

farmers’

market stall

operator,

Val Andrews

and occasional food writer. While living in

Alberta she owned and operated a local meal

delivery service and farmers’ market stall.

She also worked as a culinary instructor at

two Calgary-based cooking schools. Since

returning to Ontario she has been exploring

her ancestral roots as a third generation

fermenter, preserver and grower of food.

Andrews is dedicated to the use of local

and organic ingredients and to creating an

eating experience that is not only delicious

but also health giving and memorable.

For Andrews, good food, whether you are

growing it, preparing it, or eating it has

been a foundation for forging strong joyful

relationships, building community and

making meaningful connections.

Restaurateur/Chef T.G. Haile

Chef/restaurateur T.G. Haile embodies the

art of hospitality and entrepreneurism.

She is dedicated to supporting meaningful

cultural and charitable initiatives and events,

despite the fact that she is a busy hands-on

restaurateur who

does all of the

cooking at her

restaurant T.G.’s

Addis Ababa.

A few years

ago, T.G. was

selected as one

of I am London’s

successfully

settled

immigrants from

various countries

that have

chosen London,

Ontario as their

home. T.G. is a

skilled chef (her

mother and her

grandmother

T.G. Haile


both operated restaurants) and her signature

dishes from the repertoire of Ethiopian cookery

comprise permutations of sweet, bitter, sour,

salty, hot and fragrant. Refinement and flavour

contrasts are the hallmark of T.G.’s cooking.

Entrepreneur Nicole Haney

Nicole Haney, founder and president of Boho

Bake Shop and Boho Bars, is a self-taught

baker. An avid runner and health enthusiast

with a passion for food, Nicole was always on

the lookout for treats that were healthy but

also tasted delicious, and could never find

what she was looking for. She graduated from

Western University in 2007 with a degree

in Psychology, and after years in corporate

environments Nicole’s passion for healthy

food and her entrepreneurial spirit led her

to create Boho Bake Shop. With no prior

experience

in the food

industry and

no formal

business

training,

Nicole taught

herself how

to bake

and how to

successfully

scale a food

business.

What began

as an in-home

Nicole Haney

order-only

bakery has

in two years

grown to be a successful wholesale bakery,

supplying almost 50 retail partners with

doughnuts, cookies, brownies, and energy

bars. With two farmers’ market locations in

London, Nicole is able to see in person the

March/April 2018 | 23

impact she is making in the community and

loves that she is able to share gluten-free,

plant-based baked goods with her clients.

Chef Alicia Hartley

Alicia Hartley is a native of Guyana, the home

of classic fusion cuisine, and although she

immigrated to Canada at age thirteen, her

background influences her cooking. Hartley’s

culinary approach is both instinctual and

thoughtful. She is a proponent of combining

ingredients from various cuisines and regions

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Alicia Hartley

with contemporary

ideas. Hartley

is known

to ramp up

the spice

quotient,

which she

does to

great effect.

She credits

her mother,

who is part

Chinese, for

the Asian

influence in

her cooking

repertoire.

Hartley

has left her

mark on such restaurants as The Tasting Room,

Blu Duby, and The River Room, and is now chef

at Blackfriars. I queried Chef Hartley about her

thoughts on the traditional patriarchal kitchen.

“We are still kind of struggling,” she explained.

“We still have the boys that try to put us

women in our place. I call them boys because

men don’t do that kind of thing. At Blackfriars

we have a matriarchal system. I feel empowered

by it. I am not afraid to be myself, I am

not afraid to be ridiculed or judged, not only

by Betty but by my colleagues and our clients. I

don’t have to be good at everything anymore.”

Restaurateur Marika Hayek

Restaurateur

Marika Hayek

is celebrating

61 years at

the landmark

Budapest

Restaurant

in downtown

London. A few

years ago Hungarian

Consul-

General Dr.

Stefania Szabo

celebrated

Hayek’s

landmark

achievements

as a successful

business

Marika Hayek

(with London Mayor Matt Brown)

owner and

pillar of the


London community. Hayek arrived in Canada

in March of 1957, then 25. She and her husband

were part of a wave of immigration that

occurred after the 1956 Hungarian revolution.

Trained in Budapest as a cook, Hayek was

drawn to the hospitality business when she

arrived in London. While employed by Moskie

Delicatessen on Dundas Street, Hayek bought

the building and then the delicatessen from

its owners. It included the ice cream shop next

door. In 1968 she and her husband merged the

two storefronts into a single operation. Out

of the refurbished buildings they created the

present-day restaurant. A formidable restaurateur

with a keen aptitude for the business, she

has embodied the height of Mittel European

elegance and sophistication for decades. Hayek

greets her guests with a gracious “please come

in, my lovely peoples” or “my lovely ladies and

gentlemen.” Those food enthusiasts who are

inclined to dismiss the restaurant as an anachronism

might want to take a closer look at the

Budapest’s unique charms, before it becomes a

thing of the past.

Restaurateur Betty Heydon

A long commitment to supporting women

permeates the fabric of Betty Heydon’s Blackfriars

Bistro & Catering. Heydon, who long

ago perfected the art of hospitality, celebrated

Blackfriars’ twenty-second anniversary in

February 2018. She comes from a matriarchal

family of 10 daughters. Previously Heydon

spent 11 years working at the Marienbad. Her

deliciously arty bistro, knowledgeable servers

and top notch kitchen staff have been the

embodiment of the matriarchy. Heydon says,

“Blackfriars

is the type of

environment

where women

feel cared for

and valued.

We provide

a level of

comfort, and

it’s the kind

of space to

which women

gravitate.”

Betty may be

the Queen Bee

but culinary

luminaries

and chefs

Jacqui Shantz,

Betty Heydon


Alicia Hartley, Julianna Guy, and Zakia Haskouri

have all been part of a stalwart kitchen

brigade in recent years. Creative and eclectic

seasonal menus are personally handwritten

by Heydon, who is also a well-regarded artist.

This casual bistro located just west of the

Blackfriars Bridge also features innovative,

seasonal blackboard specials daily.

Restaurateur Jess Jazey-Spoelstra

Craft Farmacy is the latest venture from

restaurateur/caterer Jess Jazey-Spoelstra,

who operates North Moore Catering, The

River Room, and Rhino Lounge in Museum

London. Like any successful restaurateur/

caterer, Jazey-Spoelstra has a particular je

ne sais quoi and an innate talent for picking

and mentoring professional staff who

communicate

her vision

and deliver it

with aplomb

and finesse.

Her culinary

philosophy

is to create

exceptional

food at

reasonable

prices. Jazey-

Spoelstra says,

“The rest is

more theory—

taste the

ingredients,

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra

don’t muddle

too many

flavours, use

excellent

quality ingredients, and let the food speak for

itself.” Hers are impressive achievements.

March/April 2018 | 25

Chef Angela Murphy

Executive chef Angela Murphy of Restaurant

Ninety One at Windermere Manor pursued

academics out of high school and has a

double major degree in Humanities and

English Literature. Murphy has ambitions

to be a food writer. It is why she went

to the Stratford Chefs School. I asked

Chef Murphy about her thoughts on the

patriarchal kitchen hierarchy. She replied,

“It is a question that zeroes in on the heart

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confronting in today’s new #metoo and

#timesup world.”

“We need to change the perception around

what a chef looks like. I’ve had so many staff

members that are tall men with beards and

tattoos thatautomatically garner a deep

respect for their craft. There is an ingrained

stereotype that I am constantly battling

against as a young female chef. Whenever I

go to events or even converse with guests at

my own restaurant I am frequently asked if I

am a student. As a woman a decade past her

Angela Murphy

university graduation date with a wealth of

knowledge and skill running a kitchen staff

of 18, it’s a little patronizing. People mean

well, they don’t intend any offense; it’s just

tough when the public is genuinely shocked to

discover that you are the woman in charge,”

states Murphy.

“The traditional hospitality industry is

inhospitable to women, especially in the back

of house," continues Murphy. "We have known

this for years. The long hours, the macho

aggression, the harassment present in so many

kitchens. The thing is though, that it’s not just

women that suffer from these common issues.

Men don’t thrive in this environment either.

I have worked with so many men that have

had issues balancing work and life because of

the late nights, the stress, and the physical

labour. It only allows for a very narrow range of

personalities to succeed."


"In the ideal kitchen," says Murphy, "and

I like to think I model my own kitchen after

that ideal, everyone feels supported, listened

to, respected. Each staff member is allowed to

explore their strengths, their interests, and to

develop their weaknesses with the help of their

peers without shame. Personal accountability

is idealized. Mistakes are owned. Learning and

growth is expected and encouraged. I would

even go so far as to declare, utterly rebellious to

the traditional chef mentality, that restaurants

should be more accommodating to the personal

lives of their staff. The kitchen is not a cult;

you shouldn’t have to forsake your family, your

friends and your relationships to be successful."

Educator/Chef Josie Pontarelli

Chef Josie Pontarelli, a Stratford Chef School

alumna, has a long and interesting resume that

includes working at On the Fork and at the

original iteration of Abruzzi Restaurant. Prior

to that, Pontarelli managed the Green Room

at Stratford’s Festival Theatre. There she was

mentored by chef/cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen

of Monforte

Dairy, who

became an

important

influence in her

early career.

With 25 years

of experience

in the food

industry, Pontarelli

has had

the opportunity

to supervise

many professional

kitchens,

develop restaurant

concepts

and recipes,

provide food

styling and

recipe testing,

Josie Pontarelli

and contribute to the local food movement in

Southwestern Ontario. Currently, she teaches

both aspiring and professional cooks at Jill’s

Table and Fanshawe College. More recently, she

co-founded the food and beverage pairing blog

site Cork + Board with friend and sommelier

Christie Pollard. Pontarelli is the Coordinator

of the Artisanal Culinary Arts program at Fanshawe

College and is a senior advisor of restaurant

services at First Key Consulting.


Photographer Alieska Robles

This creative director and photographer

extraordinaire brings something truly

groundbreaking to the table by collaborating

with culinary enthusiasts, chefs, farmers, and

regional producers and craft brewers to create

a one-time craft edition of The Forest City

Cookbook. Robles has had a transformative

impact on the local culinary scene with this

initiative. More than 60 local chefs, souschefs,

sommeliers, restaurateurs and 40 area

food producers are on board.

Loose Leaf Teas & Tisanes

•

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware

•

NEW Light & Healthy Winter Menu

•

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Robles envisioned the project as a

community-driven and community building

effort to help advance the culinary scene.

The book includes contributions from such

notable women as Jill Wilcox of Jill’s Table,

Alaura Jones from Growing Chefs Ontario,

chef Angela Murphy of Restaurant Ninety

One at Windermere Manor, Barbara Czyz

of Unique Food Attitudes, Carla Cooper of

Garlic’s of London, Chandany Chen of Abruzzi

Ristorante, Julianna Guy (Eatdrink magazine's

recipe contest winner), Katherine Jones of

Growing Chefs Ontario, Meaghan Biddle of

Locomotive Espresso, Michele Lenhardt of V

Food Spot, Shannon Kamins of Booch Organic

Kombucha, Shauna Versloot of The Live Well

Community, Tabitha Switzer of La Noisette

Bakery, Jocelyn de Groot of zen’Za Pizzeria

and Yoda Olinyk of Yoda’s Kitchen.

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28 | March/April 2018

Farmer/Activist Christine Scheer

Christine Scheer has been an important and

inspiring voice in the local culinary scene as

a chef, caterer, educator, cookbook author,

local food

movement

advocate,

writer and

influential

community

food

advisor for

over three

decades. In

1991 Scheer

married,

and she and

her husband

John

Wilson quit

their jobs

and bicycled

Christine Scheer

around

the world.

When they

got home a year later they moved to Dolway

Farm and began the process of converting the

acreage into an organic farm. Until last fall,

Covent Garden Farmers’ Market was managed

by Scheer. It remains London’s only 100%

producer-based market, which means that

every vendor at the market sells what they

themselves grow, raise, bake, or preserve. As

a director of Farmers’ Market of Ontario for

six years and at the Covent Garden Market for

seven years Scheer has had a transformative

impact on what we eat and drink. In 2017, two

years after being diagnosed with Parkinson’s

disease, Scheer retired from these positions.

She is an engaged member of the Middlesex

London Food Policy Council.

Chef Jacqueline “Jacqui” Shantz

Jacqui Shantz trained at George Brown

College and apprenticed at The Millcroft Inn

before heading to Switzerland for two years,

where she developed a love for skiing along

with her own culinary style. Her culinary

approach is described by restaurateur Betty

Heydon as “cutting-edge with a respect for

tradition.” Shantz build a solid reputation

for culinary excellence at such restaurants as

the former Castens, Crabapples and 99 King.

She spent a decade as executive chef at J. P.

Baillargeon’s Custom Cuisine Catering, one

of the region’s most highly regarded special


event and catering companies. Shantz is a

crucial part of Blackfriars Bistro & Catering

where she has been executive chef for the last

12 years. I recall an interviewer asking Shantz

nearly three

decades ago

how she saw

herself in

the culinary

hierarchy.

Her tonguein-cheek

answer was

“above [Paul]

Bocuse.”

We recently

talked about

the famed

misogynist

French chef

who recently

passed

away at 91,

and Shantz

Jacqui Shantz

confirmed

that when she went to see him there was

a sign on the gate that stated “No Women

Allowed.” Shantz has long been considered

one of London’s top chefs.

Restaurateur Hiedi Vamvalis

Restaurateur and community leader Hiedi

Vamvalis is a pillar of hospitality, and has

been serving Greek/Mediterranean cuisine

and traditional English fish and chips for over

40 years at the beloved Mykonos Restaurant

on Adelaide St.

Vamvalis previously

sat on the

board of the

Grand Theatre and

is a long-time supporter

of the arts.

She is currently

a board member

for the Family

Advisory Committee

for Mental

Health. As has

often been said,

Vamvalis has likely

given enough

hugs in her career

to embrace every

resident of the

city.

Hiedi Vamvalis


Entrepreneur Jill Wilcox

Jill’s Table is London’s paramount purveyor of

fine foods and an award-winning specialty food

and kitchen store in downtown London. Owner

Jill Wilcox

is an amazing

culinary

resource —

supportive,

knowledgeable,

and

a leader in

promoting

the local food

community.

For more

than 22 years

Wilcox has

been leading

cooking

classes, most

recently at

Jill’s Table,

Jill Wilcox

and for more

than 37 years

has worked as a food columnist for the London

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Free Press and Post Media. Wilcox leads culinary

tours to France and Italy and has been the subject

of numerous national magazine and newspaper

articles. She has been awarded the London

Chamber of Commerce Business Achievement

Award and The London Y Women of Excellence

award. In 2012 she started The Jill Wilcox Foundation

to grant funding to food-related and

educational projects that support women and

children in need. She is an active member in the

local food movement and volunteers on a number

of food-related projects. Currently she sits on

the board of the London Chamber of Commerce.

Wilcox has published six cookbooks, including

her latest, Jill’s Soups Stews & Breads.

I salute these talented and inspirational women

who have made unique contributions to the

local culinary scene. Their worthy peers are too

many to mention in one article, but I would

feel remiss not to name some other women.

Stalwarts include the formidable Pat Spigos

of High Lunch; Vanessa Willis of The Church

Key Bistro-Pub; Michelle Pierce Hamilton

of beTeas and The Tea Lounge; Joelle Lees of

Michael’s On The Thames; Anna Turkiewicz

of Klieber’s Deli; Barbara Czyz of Unique


Food Attitudes; Michelle Lenhardt of the

V Food Spot; Mies Bervoets, formerly of

Miestro; Dagmar Wendt, formerly of Under

the Volcano, Zakia Haskouri formerly of

Casbah; Hilary Alderson Moon of the former

landmark Say Cheese; Mary Ann Wrona of

the former Café Bourgeois; and Ann McColl

Lindsay of the former Ann McColl’s Kitchen

Shop. Relative newcomers such as Julie

Kortekaas and Chef Shayna Patterson

of Rebel Remedy; Margaret Coons of Nuts

for Cheese; Laura Owen of The Springs;

Elaine Sawyer from Wich Is Wich; Liliana

Hernandez-Oliva of North Moore Catering

and Craft Farmacy; and The River Room’s

sous chef Sarah Martins also make my list of

formidable women in London’s culinary world.

They are all making a difference.

BRYAN LAVERY, Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large,

brings years of professional experience in the restaurant

and hospitality business, as a chef, restaurateur and

partner in a culinary consulting business, Lavery Culinary

Group. Always on the lookout for stories Eatdrink should

be telling, he helps shape the magazine both under his

byline and behind the scenes.

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A Love Affair

with Southampton


By NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY

For many years I have had a love affair

with Southampton, Ontario. As a

child I would stand on the beach

looking across at the lighthouse on

Chantry Island. I wanted to live there. As I

got older I was mesmerized by the spectacular

Lake Huron sunsets.

Last summer I finally divulged my secret

love to a friend, and the idea of a day trip

was born. We left early one Friday morning,

equipped with coolers and ice packs, having

decided to make this into a food trip, and to

take home some fresh Bruce County produce

and other local foods.

From Kettle Point to Southampton,

Highway 21 follows the Lake Huron shoreline,

offering some marvellous views along the way.

Half of the fun of a day trip is getting there, so

of course we made a few stops along the way.

Our first stop was Burdan’s Red Cat Farm

and Bakery, just north of Goderich. Yes, the

bakery truck comes to The Market at Western

Fair, but being able to enjoy the aroma of bread

baking in a brick oven, while watching the

Muscovy ducks waddle across the green grass

to swim in the pond, and breathing in the fresh

country air was worth the visit. Of course, we

left laden with loaves of freshly baked bread.

We’re both cheese lovers, and so our next

stop, was like a taste of heaven on earth!

The Pine River Cheese and Butter Co-op was

established in 1885, on the banks of the Pine

River, near the shores of Lake Huron. The

original purpose was to manufacture and sell

cheese and butter, and to buy, keep, fatten,

and sell hogs. The present day company

manufactures and sells cheese, offering tours

and viewings of how cheese is made.

We found mild, medium, old and premium

cheddars, mozzarella, Havarti, and flavoured

cheeses such as the first ever Craft Beer

Cheese Puck (Canadian Eh?), a new Cheese

Fudge variety — Chocolate Mint Cheese

Fudge, and a great selection of goat cheeses.

Last year the co-op launched a line of organic

Top: Southampton Beach. Middle: Red Cat Bakery, just

north of Goderich, where the Burdans make their organic

breads in a traditional brick oven (bottom photo).


March/April 2018 | 35

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on the cash purchase of select new 2017/2018 Lexus vehicles in February including 2017 Lexus RX 350 ($3,000 on suffixes B, C, G & H), 2017 Lexus RX 450h ($3,000 on all suffixes). ^Delivery Credits in February are

available on the purchase/lease of select new 2017 and 2018 Lexus vehicles including 2017 Lexus RX 350 ($4,000 on suffix A; $3,000 suffixes G & H; $2,500 on suffixes B & C), 2017 Lexus RX 450h ($3,000 on suffix H;

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36 | March/April 2018

cheeses that includes creamy mozzarella,

cheddar with caramelized onion, and cheddar

with tomato and basil. The curd selection is

just as extensive with not only cheddar, but

also flavours such as dill, black pepper, craft

beer, crushed chillies, caramelized onion, and

Thai curry.

The store offerings are not limited to

cheese; gourmet items include speciality

coffees, cocoa and hot chocolate, imported

chocolates, candy, biscuits, a wide variety

of crackers, jams, jellies, preserves, pickles,

olives, and more. Our coolers were filling

quickly.

After a couple of more stops at roadside

fruit and vegetable stands to purchase

some fresh local produce, our next stop

was Southampton! Of course we parked by

the beach to breathe in the Lake Huron air

and gaze across to Chantry Island. As we

meandered along High Street (Southampton’s

main street) I reminisced about the general

store and bakery that we used to frequent

when I was growing up. My, how things have

changed!

The Cook’s Cupboard, which features

not only kitchen supplies, recipe books and

specialty foods, but also a huge selection of

offbeat, interesting gift items, was a shopping

haven for early Christmas shopping.

Although specialty olive oils and vinegars

are available across the region, our visit to the

Southampton Olive Oil Company to sample

some of the 60 varieties of olive oils and

vinegars was another welcome stop on our

culinary adventure.

As we continued to Offshore Bakery, The

Light House Photo Gallery and several other

shops, we realized that our food shopping

had made us hungry. There are many places

to choose from. For sentimental reasons

my choice was the Walker House. Originally

known as the Royal Hotel it was one of the

first structures to be built in Southampton,

in 1852. Throughout the years the name

has changed several times, becoming the


Walker House in 1915 when it was purchased

by Robert and Helen Walker. Slowly it

transitioned into a restaurant and is now a

definite landmark.

What could be better than a feast of fresh

Lake Huron whitefish accompanied by a fresh

From the top: Chantry Island Lighthouse and keeper’s

cottage. The island is a migratory bird sanctuary. Photo:

Peter K. Burian

The Light House Photo Gallery and Southampton

Olive Oil Company are just two of the shops to visit on

Southampton’s High Street.

The landmark Walker House is one of the town’s oldest

buildings.

Relax after your day, on the porch at Chantry Breezes

Bed & Breakfast


garden salad and local vegetables? Too full for

dessert we made our way back to the beach to

wait for the spectacular Lake Huron sunset

and to listen as the piper piped down the sun

— a community tradition.

Should you choose to spend the night there

are several hotels and motels. Chantry Breezes

Bed & Breakfast is a great choice just a few

meters from the beach.

It was getting late but, as my dad always

said, “never miss a sunset.” Afterwards we

made our way home laden with food and gifts,

March/April 2018 | 37

totally full from our gastronomic escapades,

and realizing that the flame had been

rekindled. The love affair was still alive.

NANCY LOUCKS-McSLOY is a freelance writer who

loves cooking and entertaining. Her work has appeared

in Chicken Soup for the Soul, The Fur-Bearing Trout and

Other True Tales of Canadian Life, McLean’s, Vitality and

many other publications.

Discover Heather's Incomparable Journeys

“Carefully planned, relaxed, casual and friendly experiences”

Small Custom Group Tours — Personally Designed & Escorted

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca

Imperial Cities (Austria/Hungary/Czech Republic) — May 2018

The Slow Roads of Ireland — Sept 2018

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For any and all of your travel needs

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,

519-473-8591

Oakville ON TICO#50013851 Heather Wilkinson

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38 | March/April 2018

The BUZZ


Culinary Community Notes

London

In Canada, the gender pay gap is thirteen cents on

the dollar. Not as bad as some other countries, but

certainly not something that should even exist.

Mark Serre of The Morrissey House is doing his

bit by offering a 13% discount on Mondays to all

women on food purchases, lunch or dinner — a

different kind of “ladies night.” More importantly

donations, based upon the gross Monday sales, will

be made to local charities such as Anova, London

Abused Women’s Centre, My Sister’s Place, and

Life*Spin. themorrisseyhouse.com

In the spirit of giving back to the community The

Jill Wilcox Foundation was established in 2012 with

the hope that the work of the Foundation would

nurture the lives of women and children who, in

turn, would discover the richness and joy that

comes from sharing a well-prepared meal with

family. The Foundation strives to help women and

children in food related initiatives. www.jillstable.

ca/jill- wilcox-foundation/

David Chapman of David’s Bistro and his team

originally hoped to reopen last fall but that was

pushed to February, and now to March 10. Chapman

says, “The front of the house is done. There is still

some work to be done on the hood vent but they

hope to start moving equipment back this week. I

am hopeful and anxious.” davidsbistro.ca

Chef Dave Lamers of Abruzzi confirms that he and

Rob D’Amico are opening another restaurant later

this year, possibly November. It will be in Hyde

Park, with a different concept and name. Abruzzi

recently welcomed Chef Justin Dafoe, formerly

of The Bruce Hotel in Stratford and a graduate of

Stratford Chefs School. Dafoe is currently working

at Abruzzi, and will be leading the kitchen team at

the new restaurant. abruzzi.ca

Chef/owner Thomas Waite and his staff recently

celebrated the Spruce on Wellington’s first

anniversary with updates to the décor, acoustic

enhancement and the launch of new and accessibly

priced menus. Staff now includes corporate chef

Ashton Gillespie along with Jamie Sandwith,

Larissa McCutcheon and Jason Astels, who are

committed to delivering a professional restaurant

experience. Waite recently announced a new slate

of immersive cooking classes to be held at the

restaurant. spruceonwellington.com

Betty Heydon’s Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is

now open on Mondays for lunch and dinner. This

acclaimed bistro recently celebrated its 22nd

birthday. Heydon features innovative, seasonal

blackboard specials with cutting-edge menus that

respect tradition. blackfriarsbistro.com

Michelle Pierce-Hamilton of The Tea Lounge is

leading a two-week series of Meditation and Tea

on March 15 & 22. Guests will enjoy an enhanced

experience of tea-tasting after a relaxing and

calming meditation. The Tea Lounge is also

featuring a St Patrick’s Day-themed afternoon tea

on March 18, and a spring-themed vegan dim sum

on March 25. beteas.com/tea-lounge/

Jeffrey Dennis has taken over as general manager

of The Park Hotel (formerly Station Park All Suite

NOW SERVING SUPPER

thursdays–saturdays

5–10 pm

reservations encouraged

125 King St., London

519.860.WICH (9424)


Hotel) on Richmond Row. For the past seven years

he was the director of sales and marketing at The

Residence Inn by Marriott London Downtown.

Andreea Weldon has been appointed as director

of sales and marketing. The hotel is in the final

stages of completing guestroom renovations.

stationparkhotel.com

The new Forrat’s Chocolate Lounge is open at 60

North Centre Road, across from Masonville Mall

in the same plaza as Wendy's. Chic, casual and

comfortable, the lounge features plenty of booths

and seating options. Beer and wine as well as some

interesting nibbles are available, but the star of the

show is, unsurpisingly, the chocolate!

Chef Kim Sutherland has been hired to lead the

culinary experience in the new $6.1 million-dollar

Boler Mountain Chalet. Well known and respected

in the London culinary scene, Chef Sutherland

is a local Londoner with extensive experience in

large scale culinary establishments, with an eye

to local sustainable practices. “Boler is looking

forward to opening the full service restaurant

in the spring after ski season has ended," says

Sutherland. "Due to the incredible opening to the

ski season we decided to postpone the restaurant

until the spring. We are booking lots of weddings

and corporate events and looking forward to what

the other three seasons will bring.” Chef will also

be offering special occasion meals for corporate

functions, weddings and private events. Seating is

available for up to 200 in a variety of private space

configurations. bolermountain.com

Jim Telfer, president of Grafica Event Planners,

has over 30 years of event planning experience

working both locally and internationally. Telfer

believes in cultivating strong relationships to

ensure that your event is built with the spirit of

true teamwork. At Telfer’s home décor shop Splash

you can find exciting curated décor including

art, mirrors, exceptional rugs, custom-designed

twelve seats

five course tasting menu

Contemporary Canadian Cuisine

March/April 2018 | 39

artisanal pieces, and other unique accents. Explore

the eclectic collection of handmade, one-of-a-kind,

and designer jewellery and accessories to find the

perfect new piece for you or your loved ones.

Sharinne Snellen at Sha Choix jewelry and gift

shop in Wortley Village offers private shopping

parties catered by her husband, executive chef

Juriaan Snellen, with wine, cocktails and hors

d’oeuvres. www.shachoix.com

Joelle Lees of Michael’s on the Thames is

celebrating the 35th anniversary of the restaurant

208 Piccadilly Street, London

reverierestaurant.ca

By Reservation Only 519 914-6595

Commercial & Residential

Upholstery Specialists

Hunter & Co., London

Lifetime Warranty on Workmanship

Email your furniture photo

or call for a quote!

Robert Robinson’s

UPHOLSTERERS SINCE 1916

119 Consortium Court, London

robertrobinsons@rogers.com

519 455-9910

APRIL 5 th 2018 at the LONDON CONVENTION CENTRE


Chef Michael Smith’s

Tickets

$200. ea

call Lindey

519 . 858 . HOPE

or visit

BethanysHope.org

Join us for:

An Interactive

Dinner Party

Featuring:

Chef Michael Smith

5:00 PM

Cocktails

Food Stations

Silent Auction

7:00 PM

Dinner Service

& Program

Live Auction


in March. Former owner Brian Stewart has

given Lees menus and articles dating back to

when he opened the restaurant. Lees is putting

together a 1983 throwback three-course dinner

menu complete with period items and pricing.

michaelsonthethames.com

Nutritionist Julie Kortekaas and Chef Shayna

Patterson’s Rebel Remedy has launched a series

of two- and three-day "Reset" programs, featuring

cold-pressed juices, functional remedy drinks,

traditionally brewed kombucha, and fibre-rich

healing foods. The spring menu will come out at

the beginning of April, and will include sandwiches

and salads that highlight the produce of our local

foodshed, while promoting traditional ingredients

like bone broth, offal, sourdough, sauerkraut, and

algae. As always, Rebel’s many vegan options are

soy-free. rebelremedy.com

Keto Health Foods, providing gluten-free and

sugar-free meals, desserts, bagels and snacks,

recently opened their first take-out location at

416 Hamilton Road. Keto Health Foods previously

delivered to their growing London clientele who

follow a ketogenic lifestyle. Customers can now

order on-line (the menu is updated weekly) and

then pick-up at the Hamilton Road location, or have

their orders delivered. ketohealthfoods.ca

Situated in the Diamond Flight Centre on Blair

Blvd. (one block north of Oxford St. off Crumlin

Road), the Katana Kafé & Grill overlooks the main

runway of the London International Airport and

uniquely combines the romance of aviation with

fabulous food. Executive Chef Chris Morrison has

just released interesting new lunch and dinner

menus. Tasty surprises include Lobster Tail and

Chorizo Pogos, with an emphasis on sophisticated

comfort food. katanakafe.ca

CommonWealth Coffee Company is opening at

478 Richmond Street around mid-March. It will

March/April 2018 | 41

be a true third-wave coffee shop, with west- to

east-coast roaster offerings. The concept for the

space looks impressive. Next door, Kari Egan’s Roli

Poli–Hand Rolled Ice Cream features premium ice

cream, but also vegan-friendly, non-fat yogurt and

coconut milk ice cream. Roli Poli is also located at

The Market at Western Fair. rolipoliicecream.com

Katherine Jones, executive chef of Growing Chefs!,

has worked hard to challenge the perceived

limitations of children and youth in the kitchen.

During her maternity leave in December, chef Ryan

Southwestern Ontario’s Most Dynamic

Destination for Outdoor Adventure!

New Chalet for Social &

Corporate Events Now Open!

Great Hall Banquet Room • Concourse • Meeting Rooms

Weddings | Bridal & Baby Showers | Corporate Meetings & Retreats

519-657-8822

689 Griffith Street, London

www.bolermountain.com

SKIING • SNOWBOARDING • TUBING • TREETOP ADVENTURE PARK

Reserve

for

Mother’s Day

Brunch!

46 Blackfriars Street, London | 519-667-4930 | www.blackfriarsbistro.com

Blackfriars

Bistro & Catering

•

Lunch Mon–Fri

Dinner Mon–Sat

•

Dietary Needs

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•

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42 | March/April 2018

Wishak was welcomed to the team. Wishak is a

Fanshawe College Culinary Management graduate

with 15 years of experience in the industry and is

classically trained in Italian cuisine. Over the years,

a who’s who of women chefs has participated in the

Growing Chefs! program, including Kim Sutherland,

executive chef of Boler Mountain; Michele

Lenhardt of V Food Spot; Yoda Olinyk of Yoda’s

Private Catering; Nancy Abra of From My Garden;

Shauna Stewart, of The Livewell Community;

Chandany Chen of Abruzzi; Ellen Lacroix of the

Great Canadian Superstore; Vicci Coughlin of The

Hey Cupcake!

www.heycupcake.ca

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North

519-433-CAKE (2253)

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4

where art is

a piece of cake

The ORIGINAL

LONDON CAKERY &

GOURMET CUPCAKE

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ABOUT OUR

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Telegraph House; Laura Wall of Petit Paris; Tracy

Little of The Springs Restaurant; Marisa Verbeem,

Amanda Jeffery and Carolyn Nesbitt-Larking, just

to name a few. growingchefsontario.ca

The Boombox Bakeshop is the brain child of

Alexandra Connon. With a love for baking, passion

for music, and support of family and friends, the

bakery was born. It is a veg-friendly bakery and

cafe specializing in vegan goods and gluten-free

vegan goods. On offer are signature seasonallyflavoured

cupcakes, pop overs, cookies, sweets,

and other delightful seasonal surprises. Connon is

all about supporting local, whether it’s promoting

local bands, or sourcing fresh organic produce from

local farmers and distributors. Even the coffee is

roasted locally and specially blended for the shop.

theboomboxbakeshop.com

Londoners know long-time vendor Mimi Mobarak

for her West and East Indian and Guyanese Kitchen

at The Market at Western Fair. Mobarak and

husband Sheik also operate the West Indian & More

Kitchen on Jalna Boulevard, where they serve hot

and fresh Halal specialities and takeaway foods like

authentic curries, butter chicken, hand-rolled rotis

and real jerk. Plant-based dishes include doubles

(a chickpea sandwich of sorts), veggie samosas,

potato pies with herbs, and aromatic ginger soup.

Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday 11–7.

Bhan Mudliar, owner of The New Delhi Deli at

Covent Garden Market, came to Canada from the

Fiji Islands. Mudliar serves exquisite homemade

Caribbean-Indian cuisine. Try the jerk chicken,

oxtail, curry goat, roti wraps, samosas, seafood,

curry chicken, a variety of daily soups and Jamaican

patties. Mudliar also offers a selection of glutenfree,

veggie, and vegan options.

The first annual London I ❤ BEER & Bacon

Festival is coming to the London Convention Centre

on March 24. Over 20 Ontario breweries, cideries

“Pure

Chinese”

Cuisine

—Eatdrink

Wednesday to Sunday

11:30am to 8pm

Five Fortune

Culture

RESTAURANT

366 Richmond Street at King

www.fivefortuneculture.com

226 667 9873

Menu changes FRI–SUN


and distillers and more than 12 local restaurants

are coming together for this event. Not a fan of

bacon? Vendors will have non-bacon dishes and a

few vegetarian dishes as well. iheartbeer.ca/london

The Cocktail Show will take place on Saturday, April

14 from 3 pm–11 pm at Budweiser Gardens. Attendees

will have drinks prepared by world-class mixologists,

and have the opportunity to discuss different cocktail

varieties with brand ambassadors and to learn from

experts in the field of mixology. budweisergardens.

com/events/detail/the- cocktail-show

Curley Brewing Company recently opened at 1700

Hyde Park Road. The business, co-owned by Nigel

Curley and Kelsey Watkinson, features a vegan café

serving light lunches, kombucha, coffee and baked

goods, and offers four small-batch beers on tap that

are also available to take home in 500 ml bottles.

curleybrewing.com

London Training Centre is pleased to offer the

Culinary Pre-Apprenticeship program again

beginning May 1. The six-month program is fully

funded by The Ministry of Advanced Education and

Skills Development and includes an eight-week paid

placement in London restaurants. This program is an

ideal opportunity for people working in the industry

to enhance their skills and move their careers

forward. The course will explore, in detail, safe knife

skills, kitchen sanitation and safety, fundamental

cooking principles, menu design, pastry baking

and bread making practices, nose to tail butchery,

identification and use of seasonal produce, stock and

sauce making. The theoretical classroom learning

will be pertinent to the tactile practical applications

in the kitchen environment.

Limited enrollment and small class size (12 students)

will offer a greater opportunity for an exclusive student

learning experience. Applicants must have an Ontario

Secondary School Diploma or equivalent and the ideal

candidate will have previous restaurant experience

and a strong interest in a culinary career. Deadline for

application: April 23. londontraining.on.ca/culinarypre-apprenticeship.htm

Stratford

The York Street Kitchen is back on York Street in

the space previously occupied by Linleys Food Shop.

Open every day from 11 am to 4 pm. Check out the

new space and new menu. yorkstreetkitchen.com

Stratford Chefs School alumna Chef Loreena Miller

leads the Revival House kitchen with a background

in French cuisine and a passion for Perth County

inspired dishes. Revival House continues its focus

on the locals during the winter/spring months

with Thursday to Saturday dining after 5 pm and

Your love of all things Italian begins at

Gift Cards

Available

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com

162 Wortley Rd., London, ON N6C 3P7

plantmatterkitchen.com

519.660.3663

GREAT FOOD IN THE HEART OF

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plantmatterbistro.com

717 Richmond St., London, ON N6A 1S2

plantmattercafe.com

44 | March/April 2018

weekend brunch, now both Saturday & Sunday

11am–2 pm. revival.house

The Common is a new restaurant in the space

previously occupied by Monforte on Wellington.

It features an eclectic mix of comfort food from

around the world. Chef/owner Tim Otsuki

blends and elevates the traditional with the

contemporary. The tagline is “Eat Without Borders.”

thecommonstratford.com

The Bruce Hotel has welcomed Molly Berg as

General Manager. A native Californian, Molly has

REOPENING SOON!

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30

DINNER from 5pm daily

432 Richmond Street

at Carling • London

ALWAYS

a 3-course prix fixe

menu option

www.davidsbistro.ca


worked as the Director of Operations at Château du

Sureau, a Relais & Chateaux property, and for other

fine properties in La Jolla and San Diego. The Bruce

also welcomed Joe Duby as Food and Beverage

Manager for the hotel. thebruce.ca

2018 Stratford Chefs School Open Kitchen Cooking

Classes now in session. Starting in March and

running until the end of September, the Stratford

Chefs School opens its doors to home cooks looking

for hands-on skills building classes that are as

informative as they are fun. March and April classes

include Pasta, Sourdough Bread, Indian Curry,

Vegetarian Entrees, Cooking with Pressure Cookers,

Taste Wine like a Pro and a special St. Patrick’s

inspired Irish Meal. Classes are held in the school

kitchens at 136 Ontario Street and range in cost

from $45 to $75. stratfordchef.com/open-kitchen

Stratford Chefs School is pleased to partner with

Chef Neil Baxter during the 32nd year of his

renowned springtime weekend cooking classes.

Chef Baxter will lead the students in cooking four

menus over the weekend: two dinners and two

lunches. Participants will be provided with course

material to take home as well as all ingredients,

wine, apron and knives. 2018 Weekend Cooking

Class dates are: March 23–25, April 6–8, April

20–22 and April 27–29th. Please contact Chef

Baxter directly: chefneil1@mac.com

The “String Bone presents Live at Revival

House” monthly concert series features Canadian

musicians in a one-of-a-kind concert setting.

Upcoming performers include Irish-born,

contemporary Canadian folk artist Irish Mythen

with Toronto duo Harrow Fair (Miranda Mulholland

of Great Lake Swimmers and Andrew Penner of

Sunparlour Players) with their foot-stomping brand

of folk-rock, Oh Susanna/Sunparlour Players, and

Samantha Martin & Delta Sugar. Preferred seating

is available with pre-concert dinner reservations.

stringbonepresents.co

Spring into New & Exciting Experiences

481 Richmond Street • 519-432-4092

garlicsoflondon.com •


Junction 56 is Stratford’s newest distillery — recent

winner of six medals in the latest edition of the

Canadian Artisan Spirit competition, one for each

product entered. The distillery specializes in vodka, gin

and moonshine. Stop by on a Saturday for a lively and

informative tour. Be sure to try Sugar Shack, maple

flavoured moonshine as well as Fireshine (cinnamon)

and Eclipse (anise) flavours. junction56.ca

Swan Parade Weekend: April 7–8. Stratford salutes

spring with the quirky ritual of marching the swans

to the Avon River. Family fun starts Saturday

downtown with live entertainment, music, street

performers and a quest for decorated swan topiaries.

Sunday’s family entertainment begins with a Swan

Fair at the Festival Theatre Lobby from 10 am to 1

pm. The Musical March brings the children together

to meet the Swan-y Street Party from noon to 3 pm

along Lakeside Drive, with the swans parading at 2

pm led by the Stratford Police Pipes and Drums. Food

trucks on site. visitstratford.ca/swans

Puck’s Plenty Early Spring Foraging begins April 21.

Join naturalist/forager Peter Blush as he searches

forest trails for wild edibles such as wild leeks, trout

lilies, saddle mushrooms, wild ginger and more while

you discover the natural beauty of forests and field

around Stratford. Learn to harvest these delicious

gems of nature sustainably. Recipes for seasonal wild

edibles will also be supplied. Meet at 96 Birmingham

Street, Stratford. 10 am –1 pm, $35/person, 519 271-

3726, pucksplenty.com to reserve your space.

Around the Region

At Jakeman’s Maple Farm near Beachville, the

delicious pancake breakfast with homemade maple

syrup served by Oxford’s 4-H members. Weather

permitting, enjoy a horse drawn carriage ride

or take a stroll through nearby Trillium Woods.

jakemansmapleproducts.com

McCully’s Hill Farm Maple Syrup Festival offers a

chance to see maple syrup being made. Take a horse

drawn wagon ride through the sugar bush, see how

sap is collected, tour the sugar shack, and stop by

the barn to see what the animals are up to. Enjoy a

warm pancake breakfast featuring McCully’s own

maple syrup. www.mccullys.ca

The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and run

by Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor is

originally from the UK, Jana from Chatham, ON.

They are both tea drinkers, sandwich makers and

know a good scone when they see one. Located in

one of the oldest properties in the town, believed to

be at least 145 years old, the premises retain many

period features. thevillageteapot.ca

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46 | March/April 2018

142 fullarton at richmond


For the third year in a row, Dairy Capital Cheese

Fest is back in Woodstock. Connect with cheese

makers, artisans, restaurants and breweries and of

course, eat some delicious cheesy goodness. April

28. dairycapitalcheesefest.ca

Grab your girlfriends and head to Exeter for the

sixth annual Ladies Night Out on Friday, May

25 from 4–10 pm. Over 25 retail businesses and

restaurants will be ready to give ladies the VIP

treatment. Join Eddington’s of Exeter for Ladies

Night Out — it’s Friday Night Pickerel Night, plus

Gourmet Pizza Night has been extended to Friday

just for the ladies. There will also be a selection of

wine/sangria/Bellinis for 40% off. Reservations are

recommended. experienceexeter.ca/communityevents-2/ladies-night-details/

Alton Farms Estate Winery, near the community

of Forest in Lambton Shores, offers Winter Hike/

Snowshoe/Ski Weekends in March. Spend the

afternoon hiking, snowshoeing or skiing through

three kilometres of vineyard and wooded trails.

After your adventure, warm yourself at the outdoor

wood fire, purchase a glass of hot, spicy mulled

wine or enjoy a wine tasting in the Tasting Room.

Parking and use of trails are free. Check in at

Tasting Room for a trail map before starting your

adventure. altonfarmsestatewinery.com

eatdrinkmag

We are finally on Instagram! Follow

us, as with our other social media

links, at eatdrinkmag. See you there!

We want your BUZZ!

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events

that you’d like us to share?

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario

in print, and thousands more online.

Get in touch with us at

editor@eatdrink.ca and/or connect directly with

our Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery

at bryan@eatdrink.ca

Deadline for submissions for the May/June issue is

April 10.

“I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth,

they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis.

The great point is to bring them the real facts, and beer.

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48 | March/April 2018

Wine


For the Love of Wine

A Conversation with Winemaker Allison Christ

by GARY KILLOPS

Founded in 1980, Colio Estate Wines

is one of Ontario’s oldest wineries

and the first in the Lake Erie North

Shore wine region to receive a winery

licence following prohibition. The wines are

available at the winery in Harrow and at any

of the 14 retail stores located throughout

Ontario. They can also be found at many

LCBO and grocery stores.

With production exceeding 580,000 cases

of wine in 2017, Colio is one of Ontario’s

largest wineries, making wine with familiar

labels such as Bricklayer’s, Lake and River,

Girls’ Night Out, Lily Sparkling, Prism Icewine

and the Colio International Series.

Following in the footsteps of winemakers

Carlo Negri, Tim Reilly and Lawrence

Buhler, Allison Christ is Colio’s first female

winemaker. I asked Allison some questions

about the Ontario wine industry, making wine

at Colio and her thoughts on the growing

Ontario wine industry.

What inspired you to become a winemaker?

AC: I’ve always had a love for wine; it was

always a part of our family dinners growing

up. I was looking for an interesting career

that could utilize my chemistry degree when

I stumbled across the wine industry. It ended

up being an entirely natural fit and the perfect

career path for me.

How did you become the winemaker for Colio?

AC: I was on a tour of Colio five years ago when

I got talking to the winemaker at the time who

was looking for an assistant winemaker. My

passion for wine and the transferrable skills

from my degree helped me to get that position.

When Lawrence left almost three years ago for

another opportunity I was fortunate enough

that Colio saw my value and it’s been an

amazing whirlwind ever since.

What are you trying to achieve with your wines?

AC: I am trying to make approachable valueoriented

wines that showcase the beauty

Lily Sparkling

Rosé VQA

Winemaker

Allison Christ


of the Ontario wine region. I think sparkling

wine has great potential in Ontario and I think

we need to focus on both charmat and the traditional

method of sparkling wine production.

Tell us your favourite part of the winemaking

process?

AC: My favourite part is our blending session

in February. It’s the point in the process where

every single wine is evaluated blindly to assess

the quality and you really get to see the results

of all the hard work through the fall. It’s the best

time to celebrate the successes and really look at

what you want to do differently the next year.

Is there a winemaker that you modeled yourself

after, or whose skill you appreciate?

AC: I really have only worked under Lawrence

but I couldn’t ask for a better mentor. I admire

his skill and his management style. I owe him

a lot.

Are there varietals that grow better in Lake Erie

North Shore than other regions?

AC: Being so far south in Canada allows us

to make some really big reds, like Cab Sauv

in great years. It’s a tough variety to ripen in

Ontario and I believe we have the best chance.

I also like Sauv Blanc in Lake Erie North Shore

because we can get some really pretty tropical

notes, again because of the warmth.

What advice do you have for a woman wanting to

get involved in the wine business today?

AC: Our industry is really fair towards women

and there are lots of opportunities. Due to the

creative nature of the job, women and men

bring really different

ideas, which is what

we need to grow

the Ontario wine

industry.

Does being a female

have any bearing on

winemaking?

AC: Just in that we

bring a different

perspective to the

process. I really

think it takes both

men and women working together to create

the best wines.

How do you maintain a work/life balance?

AC: It’s still something I’m working on, to

be honest. Harvest is such a busy time of

year that it can be difficult to maintain a life

outside of work so I end up scheduling simple

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things like dinner or yoga classes like an

appointment to keep myself accountable. You

balance this out the rest of the year by taking

more time for yourself.

Anything else you would like to add? Proud

moments at the winery? The Lily Sparkling Rosé?

Any upcoming projects that you can share?

AC: This past

year we had the

largest harvest

we’ve ever done

—50% more than

last year, which

was an enormous

accomplishment

for us. And yes,

I am so proud of

the Lily Rosé! I

hope it’s a great

example of Ontario

sparkling wine!

We are looking at some traditional method

sparkling in the next few years, which should

be exciting.

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com

50 | March/April 2018

Various Musical Notes

Spring Is In the Air

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene


By GERRY BLACKWELL

I

come to herald the women of music this

London springtime. All hail the players

and singers, wild and gentle, soulful and

sublime, who promise to wake us from

our winter doldrums. Are you ready?

If you’re reading this in early March, you

can still catch Polaris Music Prize winner Lido

Pimienta, one of the most

intriguing young women in

music today. The Colombian-

Canadian singer-songwriter

mixes Afro-Colombian

and electronica with a bit

of post-punk. Pimienta is

one-of-a-kind: challenging,

open-hearted, very

talented. (Check her out on

Soundcloud: goo.gl/gCMxL3.)

March 7 at 7 p.m. (London

Music Hall)

A little later in March, a

very famous musical woman is here. Girl,

really — name of Dorothy, hails from Kansas?

Broadway in London is bringing a traveling

production of The Wizard Of Oz to town. It

follows the movie closely, we’re told. (No

reviews at time of writing.) March 24 at 7

p.m. and March 25 at 1 p.m.

(Budweiser Gardens)

Tessmann and Karyn

Ellis are a pair of beguiling

up-and-comers, both folkies.

Tessmann, from BC, has a

couple of singer-songwriter

awards to her credit. (goo.gl/

fLXzGX). Of Ellis, The Globe’s

Brad Wheeler wrote, “This

delicate, sweetly-melodic

Toronto songstress needs to

be heard.” Here’s the chance

to do your part. (goo.gl/fLXzGX) April 5 at 8

p.m. (London Music Club)

A couple of days later London Music Hall

offers a double bill with a bit more edge.

Canadian singer/songwriter Lights (aka

Valerie Anne Poxleitner), a girl-power popster

who combines music and anime-style comic

art, teams up with Vancouver-based Dear

Rouge, husband-and-wife duo Drew and

Danielle McTaggart. The McTaggarts play

danceable synth-pop. Their big single, “I Heard

Lido Pimienta

I Had,” made it to number

five on Canadian alternative

and rock charts last year.

(goo.gl/TGB92e) April 7 at 8

p.m. (London Music Hall)

Aeolian Hall takes over

for a week or so, with a

trio of concerts featuring

great women of song. On

April 11, jazzy Ellen Doty

is in with her trio. Doty is

launching her second album,

Come Fall. Not straight-up

jazz but an accessible mix

of styles and influences. Two nights later, it’s

Canadian-South African world music artist

Lorraine Klaasen. A Tribute To Miriam

Makeba, Klaasen’s most praised album, a Juno

2013 winner, was her homage to an African

music icon. Her latest is also rooted in African

Ellen Doty

traditions. Then it’s the

Newfoundland-bred Ennis

Sisters on April 19. The

Ennises are promoting a new

album, Stages, a return to

their folk/Celtic roots after

forays into pop and country.

Ellen Doty, April 11 at 8 p.m.

Lorraine Klaasen, April 13 at

8 p.m. Ennis Sisters, April 19

at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall)

Members of the storied

Chamber Music Society

of Lincoln Center are making a once-in-bluemoon

appearance. It’s another of the Jeffery

Concerts, presented by the Gordon Jeffery

Music Foundation. The program includes


seminal works in the chamber repertoire from

Mozart, Weber and Brahms — a trio and two

quintets. April 20 at 8 p.m. (Wolf Hall)

MAZ

Award-winning

fusion of

Trad, Jazz &

Electro

from Quebec

World Music

&

Jazz Series

’17–’18

www.sunfest.on.ca

Ensemble Vivant

Jazz Tribute to Rick Wilkins

acher Flyer (2016)

Friday, March 9 Friday, March 23

Juno Award

From Scandinavia

(Beth) Hickey, BA(MUS)

Winner

Lorraine Fru Skagerrak

ced piano/theory teacher now accepting new students Klaasen into professional music

A London

, active musician, established in Ennis the Sisters community Music Week

Special Event

al instruction The women of Scandinavian fiddle trio

Friday, April 13

ounding Fru Skagerrak to have gift are from of music Denmark, for Norway life / lifelong gift Alejandra of music

and Sweden and play music from across the

Ribera

ome-based environment

JR Ballroom

region. If you like Celtic and Quebecois fiddle

182 Dundas St

orth music, location, you’ll convenient like Fru Skagerrak. to bus April routes 21 at 8

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ionate,

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kind,

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caring,

Hall)

nurturing, gentle, encouraging, understanding

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y Piano Proficiency Preparation

n Street

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Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center

Sunfest is bringing singer-songwriter

Alejandra Ribera to the Jack Richardson

Ballroom. Ribera, of mixed Argentine and

Scottish ancestry, is a rising star in Canadian

jazz/pop. She’s been compared to Piaf, Bjork,

Tom Waits. Yes, she has many moods. (Check

her out: goo.gl/oeE9Q9.) April 28 at 8 p.m.

(London Music Hall)

Highway 7 should be clear by May 4. Why

not drive to Stratford and take in a double bill?

Saturday, April 21

Juno Award

Winner

Kellylee

Evans

Saturday, April 28 Saturday, May 12

All Concerts: Doors at 7:00 pm ~ Performances at 8:00 pm

Unless otherwise indicated, all concerts are at Aeolian Hall, 795 Dundas St., London

Tickets at Aeolian Box Office (519-672-7950), Centennial Hall, Long &McQuade North,

Village Idiot (Wortley Village), and online at sunfest.on.ca or aeolianhall.ca

Develop skills & a love for music

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Beth Hickey, BA (MUS)

North London

bhickey57@hotmail.com 519-432-4022

52 | March/April 2018

Oh Susanna

This one pairs Toronto-based folk-popster Oh

Susanna (singer-songwriter Suzie Ungerleider)

with Sunparlour Players, a folk duo from

down Leamington way. You could even get the

dinner-and-a-show package. A good end to the

week. May 4 at 8 p.m. (Revival House)

But if you’re a Janis Joplin fan head to

Aeolian Hall that night. Aeolian is presenting

the first of a new “Lives Through” series of

tribute concerts, this one featuring local blues

singer Chuckee Zehr, of Chuckee and the

Crawdaddies, in homage to Janis. (Note: if

you’re a big Janis fan and a Netflix subscriber,

check out the great doc Janis: Little Girl Blue.)

May 4 at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall)

Aeolian follows with two more great


women of song. Canadian country up-andcomer

Lindi Ortega, now of Nashville, is

promoting her new EP, Til The Goin’ Gets

Gone. Then Juno-nominated jazz cross-over

artist Kellylee Evans appears in a come-back

concert — she was out of commission for

a few years after a freak accident. Evans is

also promoting a new disc, Come On. C’mon.

Give the ladies a big round of applause. Lindi

Ortega, May 10 at 8 p.m. Kellylee Evans May

12 at 8 p.m. (Aeolian Hall)

Lindi Ortega

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance

writer.

Enjoy the show!

And read

SINCE

2007

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& end in the theatre or concert hall...

Pick up your free copy wherever discerning

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Theatre

March/April 2018 | 53

A Most Auspicious Star

Martha Henry Takes On Prospero at Stratford Festival

By JANE ANTONIAK

It is a milestone year

for the grand dame

of Canadian theatre,

Martha Henry. Not

only did she gracefully turn

80 in February, she is also

celebrating being a leading

lady by stepping onto the

celebrated Stratford stage as

a man.

Henry is in rehearsals as

Prospero in a new version

of The Tempest, directed by

Antoni Cimolino, Artistic

Director for the Festival.

“Antoni’s a hard man to turn Martha Henry

down,” says Henry from her

Stratford home on her reason to return to the

stage as an octogenarian. “I’ve tried turning

him down before. It just doesn’t seem to

work,” she says with a little chuckle. Although

it is hard to imagine Henry, who has achieved

legendary status as an actor, artistic director

and theatrical educator, not having the

backbone to do as she pleases, she admits the

lure of playing a major male Shakespearean

role was very tempting.

“While I am actually aware

that I didn’t say yes, I am

very aware that I never said

no,” she explains.

Interestingly, Henry is of

two minds about a woman

playing Prospero. She

says that she believes that

Shakespeare wrote roles

for men and for women

that were not meant to be

interchanged. She has played

many of the female roles

now, except Juliette and

Ophelia. Shakespeare “knew

what men did and the way

men thought and behaved,

and he knew the same

about women.” she says.

However, upon reflection

as a self-described “biggest

fan” of Shakespeare, Henry

realized she was perhaps

selling Shakespeare short

in her thinking. Historically,

women were not

allowed on the stage in

Shakespeare’s time, and

men played the roles of

women. “I became aware he

was writing [The Tempest]

for all time and for me,

right here and now.”

So that became the basis

for her reason to take on the role. There have

been a few line changes and word changes

such as he to she, father to mother, duke

to duchess, but no other gender switches

in the production. “It has turned out to be

illuminating and quite delicious, actually,”

she says. There have been several women in

history to play the role, most notably Dame

Helen Mirren in a film directed by Julie

Taymor. Harriet Walker

also played the role in 2017

in New York. Both women

were in their mid-sixties

when they took on the role.

Henry says she has no plans

to retire and takes extra

care and works regularly

on her mobility and voice

to prepare for the physical

challenges of the stage.

This will be Henry’s 44th

season at Stratford. She has

Martha Henry made her Stratford

debut in 1962 as Miranda (here

with Peter Donat as Ferdinand) in

The Tempest.

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acted and directed, as well as being Director

of the Birmingham Conservatory of Classical

Theatre.

She first visited Stratford to see Christopher

Plummer play Hamlet when she was 15,


York. She had met actors in Leamington,

Ontario as a university student. They had

encouraged her to look to Toronto for her

career. Coincidentally in her first season at

Stratford, 1962, she was also in The Tempest, as

Prospero’s daughter Miranda.

Henry feels that her age, more than

gender, enhances her performance in the role,

especially during the soliloquy, our revels are

now ended… “Of course I’m different now than

when I played Miranda. In a sense, I am now

playing my own mother. Now I look at it from a

different point of view.” Her plan is to leave the

door open to the role and see what comes out

the other end. She says she is approaching it

with an open heart to see what happens.

Henry says she never expected to be playing

a leading male Shakespearean role. She says

she questioned whether she was afraid, and

decided to put herself up the challenge. “I

began to be aware that Shakespeare himself

was saying, of course it can be a woman. You

just have to expand your imagination. So that

is what I am in the process of doing now.”

During her tenure in Ontario, Henry has

served as the Artistic Director of The Grand in

London. As well, she was named to the Order

of Canada, the Order of Ontario, and is the

recipient of the Governor General’s Performing

Arts Award. She has embraced the Canadian

stage and, in turn, the country has embraced

her as one its own. Henry is a Canadian citizen.

She is also the winner of Genie and Gemini

awards for her

work on the

small screen

and in films.

She calls Canada

her home,

proclaiming

how lucky she

is to live here.

We share that

sentiment!

Martha Henry as Prospero in Stratford Festival’s

upcoming 2018 production of The Tempest.

which motivated her to further understand

Shakespeare. “These were brilliant actors who

made this stuff come alive,” she says. She

moved to Canada in 1959 from the Detroit

area, to follow her passion for Canadian theatre

over the uber-competitive scene of New

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to Eatdrink.

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,

at King’s University College in London.


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56 | March/April 2018

Books

Alice’s Restaurant

Coming to My Senses

The Making of a Counterculture Cook

by Alice Waters


Review by DARIN COOK

Alice Waters and Chez Panisse — a

woman and her — restaurant

are synonymous with North

America’s most important food

revolution. Coming to My Senses: The Making

of a Counterculture Cook (Clarkson Potter,

2017) is Alice’s memoir that shows how her

upbringing, relationships, and travels shaped

her into the chef and freethinker that inspired

her to open a restaurant that shifted how

food was viewed in the industry. The book is

structured with the majority of the narrative

following a chronological account of Alice’s

early life, with more recent interrelated

anecdotes from Chez Panisse interspersed

throughout. The book covers her formative

years in a swath of events with antiwar

activists, political orators, hippie artists, free

speech advocates, and international film

directors, culminating in the opening night of

Chez Panisse when she was 27.

Growing up in the 1960s, the hippie vibe

at Berkley helped define her just

as much as her parents who

taught her “morality, empathy,

frugality, love of nature

… all values adopted by the

counterculture — because,

sadly, they had been forgotten

by the culture at large.”

Her parents did not introduce

her to the style of improvisational

cooking with what is

in season that Chez Panisse

is famous for; family meals

were vintage 1950s fare,

with meat loaf and casseroles,

along with periodic

frozen treats from the Good

Humour truck that drove

down her

street. During

World War

II, households

were

encouraged

to grow

gardens

for the war

effort and

swap vegetables

with

neighbours

to

be more economical;

her parents continued

growing their victory garden well after

wartime, which fostered Alice’s interest

in fresh produce. She writes: “Some of the

fundamental taste memories of my life

are from the corn and tomatoes from that

garden.” Her parents had been attentive to

their own garden, and later that became

instrumental in their daughter’s restaurant.

As Chez Panisse was defining how it procured

its food, their research of organic farms in

southern California helped secure Bob

Cannard as the source who has

been supplying organic produce

to the restaurant for 30 years.

On her first trip to Paris,

Alice developed a level of

sophistication when selecting

a restaurant, choosing what

to eat based on the menus

posted out front. She writes,

“I’d never eaten like that

before, and to eat with that

Alice Waters kind of discernment made it


so much more delicious.” She fell so in love

with French food that when she got back to

the United States, the only way she could

enjoy those flavors again was to learn how to

make them herself. She was not conscious of

being a cook yet, but she forced herself into

it out of necessity to please her taste buds.

Picking the right food was a strategy she

learned in France but “the supermarkets of

the mid- to late-1960s were all about frozen

foods and canned goods — the exact opposite

of the French markets, and I figured out

pretty swiftly that they were to be avoided.”

Freshness was important to her. She had

learned to love salad in France and takes

credit for bringing good salad to America,

which essentially started with the mesclun

mix she grew in her backyard in California

with seeds from Nice. Alice tells a great story

in Coming to my Senses about being the only

woman representing the top twenty-five

restaurants in the United States (Chez Panisse

was seventh on the list) with each restaurant

making extravagant dishes at an exclusive

New York fete. Alice presented a simple salad

that was the talk of the town the next day.

Attention to detail in menu design was also

important to Alice because, “it’s a visual cue,

a way of preparing the room to bring people

fully into the experience. When something is

well printed and well designed, even a menu,

people take it more seriously. It has a presence

and reflects on what they’re about to eat.” Her

approach to staffing the restaurant was a bit

unorthodox, not necessarily looking at skills

first. “It was not about a job description,” she

writes, “it was about looking for interesting

people who could breathe life into the

restaurant.”

Alice never had formal training as a chef,

but she learned from friends who knew

what to do in the kitchen, as she relentlessly

pursued flavour above all else. As she writes,

“Eating is an everyday experience, and

the decisions we make about what we eat

have daily consequences. And those daily

consequences can change the world.” Chez

Panisse introduced a new paradigm in food

philosophy and the world was changed when

Alice opened her restaurant.

DARIN COOK is a freelance writer residing in Chatham-

Kent who keeps himself well-read and well-fed by visiting

the bookstores and restaurants of London.

Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market

am pm, until March 24

Enjoy our outdoor Farmers’ Market

indoors, upstairs on the Mezzanine.

We grow it, raise it, make it & bake it

— local produce, meat, cheese

and more! Vendor Sampling

takes place on the main floor,

Centre Court, 10am–1pm.

FREE Cooking Classes run from 11am–noon

upstairs in the Market Kitchen.

Outdoor Easter Farmers’ Market

Saturday, March 31, 8am–1pm

Our annual Easter celebration, outside

on the Market Square.

Our Outdoor Farmers’ Market

starts Saturday, May 5

Corrigan School of Irish Dancing

St. Patrick’s Day, Saturday, March 17

There will be a 20-minute performance

on the Mezzanine at 10am.

FREE PARKING

With Validation

Half Hour Weekdays

Market Hours

Monday to Saturday

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ

58 | March/April 2018

Recipes

Farm to Chef

Cooking Through the Seasons

By Lynn Crawford


Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN

been watching Chef

seasonal emphasis does

Lynn Crawford on

focus on fresh vegetables

television for years,

but there are enough

I’ve

as she has helped

hearty, meaty dishes and

struggling restaurants, judged

competitions and battled Iron

Chefs. I’ve always felt that we

see her at her best when she is

travelling the country meeting

and showcasing the best food

producers Canada has to

offer. From fishing boats to

pie contests to orchards and

farms, Chef Lynn reminds

us all that the best of the

best can be found here in our own country.

In true Canadian fashion, she has managed

this with good humour and sometimes a wink

at her own dignity.

Her third cookbook, Farm to Chef: Cooking

Through the Seasons (Penguin Canada; 2017)

is a National Winner for Gourmand World

Cookbook Awards 2017 — Women Chef. In

it, she continues her message of enjoying the

simple goodness of local food. Her recipes

never feel contrived, they just bring together

the best ingredients in ways

that make perfect sense. Every

recipe feels like it should start

with a drive to the market, and

end at the cottage.

She shares 140 recipes and

any of them would be equally

at home on a restaurant

menu or on the table at

grandma’s house. The dishes

are organized by the peak

season of the ingredients, and

photographed beautifully by

Virginia Macdonald. There

are nearly enough pictures in

light, delicious desserts

to satisfy any appetite.

Cocktails and condiments

are an added bonus.

Though it’s easy to get

asparagus all year round

now, it’s best to enjoy it the

way I did as a kid: way too

much of it, for far too short

a time, when it’s in season.

Raw Asparagus Salad with Pine

Nuts, Parmesan and Lemon

Herb Yogurt is a beautiful way to enjoy this

fleeting spring vegetable. Crisp stalks are

topped with crunchy, rich pine nuts and

Parmesan cheese, then dressed with tangy

yogurt complimented by fresh herbs. It’s

topped with the bittersweet knowledge that

you will eat it until you are full to the gills and

will miss it again soon.

I remember when I was little hearing my

aunts talk about the odd foods they would eat

as kids. Radish sandwiches was

one, and it kind of horrified me

at the time. But as I grew up I

discovered that they were right

about some of those “weird”

foods. Crawford’s recipe for

Radish Sandwiches with Ramp

Butter is a slightly fancier

version. Maybe I’ll make some

for my mom this spring and

watch her reaction.

I try to showcase seasonal

recipes in my reviews because

no one comes here looking for

Christmas cake in March, but

this book, even for me. The

Lynn Crawford some books make that difficult.


Tempura Broccoli with Coconut Peanut Sauce

isn’t technically a spring recipe but I thought

it was delicious enough to include. Tempura

is a wonderful dish that can be revised to suit

almost any vegetable in any season. I picture

making this with asparagus or young beans in

the spring, zucchini in the summer and sweet

potatoes and broccoli in the fall. The sweet,

spicy Coconut Peanut Sauce would work with

fresh spring rolls at any time.

Reading Farm to Chef is like taking a road

trip with a bunch of friends. You’re not sure

March/April 2018 | 59

what adventures lie ahead but you know you’ll

enjoy every step.

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer in

London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com

Excerpted from Farm to Chef: Cooking Through the

Seasons. Copyright © 2017 by Lynn Crawford. Published

by Penguin, an imprint of Penguin Canada, a division of

Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by

arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

Raw Asparagus Salad

With Pine Nuts, Parmesan and Lemon Herb Yogurt

This is one of my favourite ways to enjoy asparagus when

it’s at the peak of its season — raw and simply dressed in

this fresh and easy salad.

Serves 4

LEMON HERB YOGURT

½ cup (125 mL) plain Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice

1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon (5 mL) thyme leaves

2 tablespoons (30 mL) flat-leaf parsley

leaves

2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped chives

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

RAW ASPARAGUS SALAD

1 pound (450 g) asparagus, trimmed

4 cups (1 L) frisée leaves

2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra-virgin

olive oil

Juice of ½ lemon


TO SERVE

¼ cup (60 mL) shaved Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons (30 mL) toasted pine nuts

1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped

chives

MAKE THE LEMON HERB YOGURT

1 Place yogurt, lemon juice, lemon zest,

thyme, parsley and chives in a blender and

process until blended. Season to taste with

salt and pepper.

PREPARE THE RAW ASPARAGUS

SALAD

2 Using a vegetable peeler, slice asparagus

spears lengthwise into thin ribbons. Place

in a large bowl and add frisée, olive oil and

lemon juice. Toss to coat. Season to taste

with salt and pepper.

3 Spoon Lemon Herb Yogurt onto a chilled

serving dish. Top with asparagus- frisée

mixture, then with Parmesan, pine nuts and

chives.

60 | March/April 2018

Radish Sandwiches with Ramp Butter

This is a classic French way of serving radishes,

simple and yet so good. The watery, crisp bite of

the radishes contrasted with the creamy richness

of the ramp butter and the crackly dry crunch of

the salt is a match made in heaven.

Serves 6 to 8

RAMP BUTTER

Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)

½ pound (225 g) ramps, bulbs removed (about

20 ramps)

1 pound (450 g) unsalted butter, at room

temperature

2 teaspoons (10 mL) honey

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon


RADISH SANDWICHES

1 baguette, cut in half horizontally

2 cloves garlic, cut in half

2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil

12 radishes, very thinly sliced


Basil seedlings or leaves, for garnish

Maldon sea salt and cracked black pepper


MAKE THE RAMP BUTTER

1 Blanch ramps in boiling salted water for 1 minute.

Transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain and squeeze out

excess water. Spread ramps on paper towel and pat dry.

2 Coarsely chop ramps and place in a food processor along

with the butter, honey and lemon zest and juice. Process

until butter is smooth. Season to taste with salt and

pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator

for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.

ASSEMBLE THE RADISH SANDWICHES

3 Set oven to broil or preheat a grill to medium-high

heat.

4 Rub cut sides of baguette with garlic cloves and brush

lightly with olive oil. Lightly toast under a hot broiler

or on a hot grill.

5 Toss radishes with salt and pepper to taste in a medium

bowl. Spread Ramp Butter on each half of baguette. Top

bottom half of baguette with radish slices and basil;

season with sea salt and pepper. Top with other half of

baguette, cut on the diagonal into small sandwiches

and serve.


March/April 2018 | 61

Tempura Broccoli with Coconut Peanut Sauce

I like to think that eating fried vegetables is a

healthy sin, and I love that you can tempura-fry

any kind of vegetable. This is an excellent recipe

to pull out when friends are over. Packed with the

bold flavours of ginger, lemongrass and chilies,

it’s a real crowd-pleaser!

Serves 4

COCONUT PEANUT SAUCE

1 tablespoon (15) canola oil

2 tablespoons (30 mL) minced peeled fresh

ginger

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced shallot

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced lemongrass

1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced Fresno chili

1 can (14 ounces/400 mL) coconut milk

½ cup (125 mL) peanut butter

2 tablespoons (30 mL) soy sauce

1 tablespoon (15 mL) sambal oelek

Zest and juice of 1 lime

TEMPURA BROCCOLI

½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons (30 mL) cornstarch

1 to 1⅓ cups (250 to 325 mL) sparkling water

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1 head broccoli, florets cut into spears


TO SERVE

1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped roasted peanuts

1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced Fresno chili

MAKE THE COCONUT PEANUT SAUCE

1 In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat oil. Add

ginger, shallot, lemongrass and chili and cook for 2

minutes, stirring constantly. Add coconut milk, peanut

butter, soy sauce, sambal oelek and lime zest and juice;

whisk to combine. Cook sauce until thoroughly heated,

then transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature.

PREPARE THE TEMPURA BROCCOLI

2 In a deep, narrow bowl, whisk together flour,

cornstarch and enough sparkling water to achieve a

consistency like crêpe batter.

3 In a deep medium saucepan, heat 4 inches (10 cm) of oil

to 375°F (190°C).

4 Working in batches, dip broccoli spears one at a time

into batter, then carefully place in hot oil and fry until

crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. With a slotted

spoon, transfer broccoli to paper towel to drain and

season lightly with salt and pepper. Repeat with

remaining broccoli spears.

5 Garnish tempura broccoli with peanuts, cilantro and

chili, and serve immediately with Coconut Peanut

Sauce.

62 | March/April 2018

The Lighter Side

The Cup that Cheers


By SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD

The history of tea is an intriguing

blend of rituals, strong opinions,

and hierarchy. Whether you put

the milk in first — apparently, the

ultimate class betrayer since it suggests that

somewhere in one’s background there was

only sub-quality crockery available (say, a

jam jar perhaps) that could easily crack with

the shock of scalding tea — or

you prefer it sweet and iced,

it’s the humble drink that

many of us will turn to

automatically in times of

misery, illness and polite

introductions.

But the basic comfort

of a cuppa goes way

beyond this; tea is also a

universal social “loosener.”

Not in the same way

as alcohol of course,

but the very act of

tea drinking can

encourage sharing.

One of my best friends

in high school had a

“cool mum” and much

of this reputation was

gained by her bringing

up a large footed tray on

post-pub Sunday morning sleepovers. She

provided a fat pot of tea, thick slabs of toast

and three china mugs. There was also a glass

dome of marmalade, linen napkins and dark

inky Marmite. As we gratefully poured, any

teenage attitude fell away and this brilliant

woman skillfully formed a composite picture

of what we’d been up to. Without asking a

single question.

Another favourite tea scenario also features

a friend’s mother, interestingly, but this time

from another culture. Every day after school,

this wonderful woman — often resplendent

in a turquoise and gold sari — would be

smiling as she swirled freshly crushed spices

into a saucepan brimming with hot milk

and tea bags, steaming and fragrant as we

came through the door. We then all sat down

together — with a revolving selection of

family members — and began sharing our day

quite naturally, in the comfortably established

ritual of passing spicy chick peas and ginger

snaps, and sipping frothy Chai.

But perhaps the most epic cup

of tea I have ever had — before or

since — was delivered to me (pun

absolutely intended) after I gave

birth to my first son. As I struggled

with tears of exhaustion, joy and

pulsating anxiety (perhaps

a heady combination of

all three!) an older nurse

appeared with a heavy

gauge hospital tea

cup and placed it

beside me. As I

began to shakily sip

the scalding, sweet

tea I began to revive

and could feel myself

unfold a bit.

“It’s just the thing,

isn’t it?” she smiled,

patting my hand. And my

eyes welled up with her kindness.

I know and understand that tea drinking

has since become quite trendy (and possibly

less sentimental) and certainly, there are

knowledgeable tea sommeliers ready to offer

advice and samples. I bow to their expertise

and appreciate the guidance in trying

something new. But for me, the most valued

and elusive infusion of all will always be

derived from the tea makers themselves —

because it’s the taste of caring.

SUE SUTHERLAND-WOOD is a freelance writer and

regular contributor to eatdrink. Read more of Sue’s work

on her blog www.speranzanow.com


March/April 2018 | 63

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