Jeweller - August Issue 2018

SOAPBOX
LET’S NOT LOSE THE MYSTIQUE
OF CUSTOM MADE JEWELLERY
The industry sure has changed a lot
over the years. Like many others my age,
I started out in the business with my
father, cutting gemstones and making
jewellery by hand.
Everything was passed on from one
generation to the next. Sitting alongside
another bench jeweller and learning their
techniques was one of the traditional
methods of learning.
Unfortunately a lot the ‘old guards’ who have
retired never ended up training younger
jewellers. Their businesses have closed and
their jewellery manufacturing techniques –
like the art of engraving and diamond setting
– are no more in vogue. Many techniques
are now computerised, with many jewellers
having adapted by solely using CAD/CAM to
design jewellery.
This means there are many jewellers who
have never been taught how to set or
properly repair pieces.
How’s that for doom and gloom?
Now, I don’t think the industry is actually
doomed – I think we just have a lot that needs
to be worked out.
For starters, jewellers who are entering
the trade need to be trained in all of the
fundamental techniques. At gemmological
associations for example, trainees are tested
on their competencies, where they’re marked
against a set of criteria. I think after this, these
young trainees need to be followed up on, to
ensure their techniques are still current and
that they can do the tasks they’re set.
Training facilities also need to be protected
notwithstanding the dwindling funds. Those
entering the industry need to be able to
replace a claw or a broken shank or know
how to restore jewellery back to its pristine
glory; as my father said, “Even if you hire
somebody, you need to know they’re going
to do the same standard as what you
would do yourself.”
As well as continuing to take on apprentices,
we should also be making sure that we do
everything within our power to bolster the
reputation of manufacturing jewellers. People
search for a good hairdresser or cabinetmaker
based on quality of work, so our industry
needs to do the same.
Legal professionals or accountants always
have testimonials from customers on their
website and list their credentials so that
the customer knows exactly who they’ll be
dealing with – again, I believe we should be
doing the same too.
Yes, it’s good to embrace all these new
technologies because it seems quite
inevitable that’s where the industry is
heading; however the importance of
traditional techniques is being lost. I have
too many potential customers come to our
store who stand at the front and ask, “Is there
a jeweller on the premises? Is everything
repaired on site or is it sent away?”
That says a lot to me about the current state
of the industry. It’s an issue of education – our
customers assume that there is no longer a
jeweller on the premises! They think that all
their work will be sent offshore and returned
six weeks later.
Another way we can ensure the mystique
GET OUTSIDE
YOUR COMFORT
ZONE AND TRY
SOMETHING A
LITTLE MORE
ORNATE, RATHER
THAN JUST HAVING
EVERYTHING
‘BREAD AND
BUTTER’
behind hand-made jewellery won’t be lost
is to keep educating our youth. I’m all for
fostering an interest and explaining the values
of the industry in kids from an early age.
I do some informal teaching at primary and
secondary schools, where I introduce students
to gemstones and jewellery as part of their
geology and other classes. Many of these kids
are looking forward to using their hands in the
future – and you could say I’m also looking at
many future potential customers.
What else can be done? Unfortunately, there
seems to be a notion that jewellers think they
know it all and refuse to adapt to change. I
worked beside another jeweller for 28 years,
but he was reluctant to change any of his
techniques during that time. You have to be a
bit of both – you have to carry on with some
of the original techniques as well as take on all
the new ways that might actually be better.
I think we also need to make sure we never
stop learning. There’s a variety of online
tutorials and old-fashioned books you can flick
through to get outside your comfort zone and
try something a little more ornate, rather than
just having everything ‘bread and butter.’
After all, when you get too complacent you
get redundant.
I’ve been around in the trade for 40 years,
and I’m still adapting, still making changes
and trying to figure out what’s the right
thing to do. i
Name: Alfie Gryg
Business: Allgem Jewellers
Position: Master jeweller
Location: Perth, WA
Years in the industry: 38 years
62 Jeweller August 2018