QUILTsocial Issue 14

the FRONT of the binding to prevent
tucks from occurring along the seam.
Make sure you don’t distort the
binding – in other words, try to keep
the seam straight as you press the
length of the binding.
Then you’ll press the binding in half with
wrong sides together. Keep those long
raw edges even. See how that flange
just peaks over the edge of the binding?
My flange measures about 1⁄8” but as
Fold the joined binding/flange strips in half to reveal
the narrow flange on the right side of the binding.
I mentioned, if you want that flange
a wee bit narrower, then reduce the
difference between the two strip widths
to perhaps 3⁄16”.
The beginning and ending ends of the completed
binding strip are offset to prevent the joins from
being side by side.
Do some experimenting and see what
you come up with.
In the photo below, you can see how
both ends of my binding were offset to
prevent the diagonal seams of the joins
from sitting beside each other.
Wind the binding strip as shown at the
start of this feature.
The binding is wound into a figure eight and
ready to sew on the quilt
Be careful when you wind the binding
as you want to have the appropriate
end ready to start sewing. With regular
binding, it doesn’t matter which end
you start with, but with the flange, it’s
important which end you start with.
You’ll see what I mean in a minute.
Step 5 - Sew the binding to the quilt
The process of sewing a binding with
a flange to a quilt is the same as if you
were sewing a regular binding to a quilt.
There is ONE exception and that is which
end of the binding strip to start with. To
review the process of starting, turning
corners, etc. I’ll refer you once again to
my post, Binding a Quilt for more details.
Remember we’ll be stitching this
binding to the front of the quilt with the
Designer EPIC, therefore we’ll start by
sewing the binding to the back of the
quilt. This is the same way we would sew
a regular binding to a quilt if both sides
will be sewn by sewing machine.
So which end of the binding do you
start with? In the photo below, you can
see that I start with the end where the
binding (green) will be touching the
back of the quilt. If I started with the
other end, I would only be able to see
the flange fabric when I flipped the
binding to the front of the quilt. Don’t
believe me? Try it!
A note of CAUTION. This binding with
the flange measures 2¼” wide. The
binding that I normally make is 2½” wide.
I had to adjust my seam allowance to
compensate for the difference in width.
This is CRITICAL. If you’re not sure what
seam allowance to use, make a sample
or play around until you know that the
width is correct. Stitch a few inches and
remove the quilt from under the presser
foot and test the width. Is it OK? If so,
keep going. If not – adjust it!
My seam allowance is slightly larger than ¼”,
using the Quilter’s ¼” piecing foot as a guide.
I used my Quilter’s ¼” Piecing Foot to
stitch both sides of the binding and it
worked like a charm. Remember to put
a little bit of tension on the binding as
you’re sewing it. That helps to prevent
a wavy edge to your quilt. Notice that I
was sewing slight larger than a ¼” seam
allowance but not by much.
I should mention that I removed the
embroidery unit from the Designer
EPIC. I didn’t want that quilt falling onto
the embroidery arm and potentially
damaging it. I put the extension table
onto the sewing machine and I LOVE
how the quilt just glides over that
beautifully curved edge.
The extension table makes it a snap to bind a quilt
and the figure eight of binding never gets twisted
36 QUILTsocial | issue 14
Start stitching the binding to the back of the quilt
with the flange facing UP