RunwayAW19
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GUIDO & BURBERRY<br />
STREET MEETS CHIC<br />
With possibly the most talked-about look from the A/W19 shows, Redken global creative<br />
director Guido Palau shows why he’s the master of subverting expectations…<br />
Images courtesy of Redken<br />
THE BURBERRY A/W19 COLLECTION was a<br />
clash of contradictions – in the best possible way –<br />
that led session legend Guido Palau to represent the<br />
brand’s disparate customer base visually<br />
through four distinct hair looks. Titled<br />
The Girl, The Boy, The Lady and The<br />
Gentleman, the theme of Riccardo<br />
Tisci’s second Burberry show was<br />
Tempest, drawing on the ideas of<br />
contrast and perspective, which only<br />
heightened this idea of individualism.<br />
“Riccardo was<br />
looking at the<br />
English class system<br />
in a sort of<br />
traditional sense,<br />
which maybe isn’t<br />
really there as much<br />
now,” muses the Redken global creative director.<br />
“I think it’s become more blurred. We’re probably<br />
known for this kind of heritage, this Englishness,<br />
and obviously well-known for our street culture and<br />
“Riccardo Tisci is very tough –<br />
he challenges me and he pushes me<br />
to do anything”<br />
GUIDO PALAU<br />
individuality. That, to me, is what Riccardo was<br />
saying with the collection.”<br />
From streetwear-savvy, younger clients who like<br />
to remix the classics, to the chic and ladylike<br />
appeal of the heritage of the brand, having<br />
such a broad spectrum of clientele was a<br />
catalyst to creating such disparate looks.<br />
“I realised how it appeals to so many<br />
different kinds of people,” he explained.<br />
Riccardo’s sharp eye for detail meant<br />
that each look went under a magnifying<br />
glass to make sure it<br />
had the perfect vibe.<br />
“For the beauty side<br />
of it he’s very tough<br />
– he challenges me<br />
and he pushes me to<br />
do anything,”<br />
Guido explains about working with the designer.<br />
“Even the chignon, the placement of it, what size it<br />
is, the knot, if it’s messy or if it’s clean – he needs to<br />
see every version. He’s got the eye.”<br />
t<br />
THE LADY<br />
“We blow-dried<br />
away from the face,<br />
smoothing the hair<br />
out for a luxury feel<br />
with Redken<br />
Satinwear 04. Then I<br />
used Triple Dry 15<br />
once I pulled it back<br />
into the ponytail and<br />
to create the knot. It<br />
just adds that bit of<br />
texture. We finished<br />
the look with Forceful<br />
23 hairspray.”<br />
t<br />
THE GENTLEMAN<br />
“It was about an<br />
almost banker-type<br />
person, a classic<br />
Englishman. Hair<br />
was trimmed, I put<br />
on Satinwear 04 and<br />
let it dry naturally,<br />
and then ran my<br />
fingers through with<br />
Redken Brews<br />
hairspray. That way<br />
it had a bit of hold<br />
but it kept some of the<br />
elegant naturalness.”<br />
RUNWAY<br />
AUTUMN/WINTER 2019<br />
37