Runway A/W19

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THAT WAS THE SEASON… Think big for A/<strong>W19</strong>; big stars, bigger coats and Big Bird as the latest fashion muse Vivienne Westwood SAY IT WITH FASHION WHEN IS A CATWALK not a catwalk? When it doubles as a political stage complete with chanting, monologues and poetry. There were no mutes here at Vivienne Westwood, these models were extremely vocal in their call to arms to address climate change. The manifesto was loud and clear: ‘Buy Less, Choose Well, Make It Last.’ STAY PUFT WARNING: EXTREME outerwear up ahead. We’re talking OTT Puffa jackets with the volume turned UP. From maximal quilting at Reshake at On|Off where Puffers came in prints as well as high-shine black and pastel incarnations to the capacious padded ballgowns at Moncler Genius, it’s a look we’re (eider) down with. Reshake at On|Off LE FREAK, C’EST CHIC THERE WAS A decidedly naughty undertone to the season, which saw lashings of latex with a bit of bondage thrown in for good measure. At Pam Hogg, the Miss Whiplash characters in the show made way for a deliciously deviant full-length latex trench which was covered in silver studs. 14 AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 RUNWAY
THAT WAS THE SEASON KING (HONG) KONG IT WAS A LIGHTNING-SPEED trip to the East by way of London W1 as Fashion Hong Kong showcased four of its hottest designers as part of a collaboration with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. With labels such as HOUSE of V and Loom Loop, the presentation was as diverse and dynamic as the country itself. Images courtesy of L’Oreal Professionnel and Toni&Guy Loom Loop GROVER’S IN THE HEART TO SAY DESIGNER Jimmy Paul at On|Off was inspired by Sesame Street is like saying the Cookie Monster is partial to a particular baked good. Big kids and fashionistas alike will love the Bert & Ernie jumpers, the Elmo-smattered jacket and the magnificent yellow feathered homage to Big Bird. TOP OF THE POPS SOME PEOPLE ACCUSE fashion of being full of hot air, but in the case of Central Saint Martin’s BA show, this was quite literally justified as models swathed in rubber dresses with blimp-like sleeves bounced down the runway. The pièce de résistance? A huge red balloon dress that engulfed the model inside like strawberry bubble gum. Steer clear of sharp objects (and small children). PEARL JAM PEARLS HAVE SHAKEN off their fusty image to become the unexpected treasures of Fashion Week. The earrings at Erdem were about as traditional as it got, while at the London College Of Fashion MA show, pearls were used as facial piercings as well as abstract adornments. One creation graced the model’s ears like headphones and morphed into something that resembled a horse’s bit. Granny would not approve. Joan Collins, courtesy of Instagram, @joancollinsdbe #FROWGOALS Erdem London College of Fashion MA show ERDEM CAN be relied upon for some star pulling-power and this season was no different, so excuse us while we proceed to shamelessly name drop. There was Laura Carmichael, Michelle Dockery, Damian Lewis and Helen McCrory, even Alexa Chung managed to tear herself away from her own collection to take her place on the front row. But our favourite this season had to be the grande dame of fashion herself – Joan Collins, we salute you. RUNWAY AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 15
Page 1 and 2: YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE NEW SEA
Page 3 and 4: NO COMPROMISE BETWEEN NEUTRALISATIO
Page 5 and 6: EDITOR’S LETTER EDITOR’S LETTER
Page 7 and 8: Image courtesy of L’Oréal Profes
Page 9 and 10: THIS IS ENGLAND BURBERRY Image cour
Page 11 and 12: Image courtesy of James Cochrane AN
Page 13: ADVERTORIAL SCROLL THROUGH YOUR soc
Page 17 and 18: TRENDS Kalissi RICH PICKINGS LET’
Page 19 and 20: TRENDS Molly Goddard Cassey Gan Dav
Page 21 and 22: TRENDS Erdem Prada ALEXACHUNG FUTUR
Page 23 and 24: ADVERTORIAL WHEN EVERYTHING COMES D
Page 25 and 26: HOW HAIR HAPPENS The ponytail was c
Page 27 and 28: HOW HAIR HAPPENS Balloons and blush
Page 29 and 30: HOW HAIR HAPPENS The collection was
Page 32 and 33: Paul Costelloe RE:CREATE The micro
Page 34 and 35: REFERENCE REBEL SOME THINGS are bet
Page 36 and 37: t THE GIRL “Riccardo talked about
Page 38 and 39: 40 SPRING/WINTER 2019 RUNWAY
Page 40 and 41: DIOR AT THE V&A LONDON’S VICTORIA
Page 42 and 43: MARY KATRANTZOU & JOSH WOOD EVENT H
Page 44 and 45: YOUNG GUNS GO FOR IT British univer
Page 46 and 47: YOUNG TALENT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS
Page 48 and 49: Ziad Nakad, images by Anna Stocklan
Page 50: A/W19 HAIR IS… “GLOSSY. THERE I

Runway A/W19

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