Ziad Nakad, images by Anna Stockland, courtesy of Neville Hair & Beauty THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS The Neville Hair & Beauty session team has spent the past seven years working at couture fashion shows all over the world. Here they explain what it’s like to work behind the scenes at the most glamorous presentations imaginable, and how it impacts life back in the salon…
COUTURE GOING BACKSTAGE AT a haute couture show is like entering another world. Through the mists of hairspray come dresses heavy with beads, regal silhouettes made from ornate fabrics. And for seven years, Neville Hair & Beauty has been there, creating the intricate hairstyles that accompany some of the most exquisite – not to mention expensive – gowns in the world. It all started when Elena Lavagni, owner of the Mayfair salon, found out about Singapore Fashion Week and decided her team was ready for a challenge. “I flew to Paris to meet the president of the Asian Couture Federation and to convince him that Neville Hair & Beauty should be a part of the show.” The salon took six hairdressers from London and, with kitbags bulging with L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART products, worked alongside a team from Singapore. It was stressful, Elena notes, but the hard work paid off and it opened the door to the couture capital of the world: Paris. “At our first couture season in Paris we did six shows, including three in one day,” she says. “It was amazing, and I learnt quickly how to manage and divide the work. I really believe in preparation – by the time we get to a show everyone knows what they’re doing.” For Jack Merrick-Thirlway, senior stylist and member of the Neville Hair & Beauty session team, the opportunity to work backstage was enticing. “Session work was always something I wanted to be a part of – I love the creativity and how you can express yourself,” he explains. Having joined Neville Hair & Beauty 14 years ago, he earned a place on the session team through hard work and enthusiasm. “I was dedicated to getting better at my craft, and everyone else could see how much I wanted it. In the beginning it was about being in the mindset of wanting to work hard – even more than the skills.” The Neville team regularly creates the hair looks for couture shows such as Antonio Grimaldi, Rami Kadi and Celia Kritharioti, with team leads including Jack, Cristian Pignatta and Fernando Spano. But the Guo Pei presentations are the highlight for Jack. “I love the big ballgowns,” he says. “The intricacies of each look make these shows very challenging but at the same time it’s so rewarding to be a part of. Each model’s look takes about two hours and everything has to be perfect – so much effort goes into these shows.” Elena believes that the time spent out of the salon working backstage at couture shows is immensely valuable, benefitting both the business and the members of the team. “When the staff return to the salon they are so enthusiastic and they always reflect back on Guo Pei “Session work was always something I wanted to be a part of – I love the creativity and how you can express yourself” JACK MERRICK-THIRLWAY Jack Merrick-Thirlway at Guo Pei the shows when talking with their clients,” she explains. “The clients know that their stylist is the best person for the job as they have worked on couture fashion shows – and that brings credibility. Also the stylists learn to be independent, as they have dealt with any number of problems backstage.” Jack agrees that the session work has a huge impact on his life in the salon, training him to seek perfection. “I’ve really learnt the art of dressing hair,” he says. “Couture work has to be so perfect – your eye changes and you look at little details and become more aware. Our clients are always interested in the shows and they feel more confident in you and your ability.” And his advice for stylists who want to experience the world of couture? “The most important things are putting in time, working hard and having a lot of patience. You have to know how everyone else in the team works. It’s like playing football – you have to pass at the right time. When I started I thought it was impossible but it starts to click – and getting that knowledge comes from practice.” RUNWAY AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 49
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