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World Of Wine Winter 2019

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Fifty<br />

Shades<br />

OFRosé<br />

If you lined up all the<br />

rosé wines available<br />

in New Zealand,<br />

you’d see at least fifty<br />

different colours. From<br />

red to pink, onion skin<br />

to salmon, all tints of rosé<br />

are correct. There is no<br />

guidebook on rosé colour,<br />

although the trend recently<br />

has been towards salmon or<br />

pale apricot versions.<br />

Rosé can be produced<br />

from any red grape variety.<br />

Pinot Noir is the most<br />

popular in New Zealand,<br />

but Merlot, Tempranillo,<br />

Syrah, the Cabernets and<br />

blends are also widely used.<br />

If colour is your thing,<br />

choosing a bottle of<br />

rosé is easy. Price is not<br />

particularly indicative of<br />

quality; however, if taste,<br />

texture and palate pleasure<br />

is a more exciting option,<br />

a little more back label<br />

reading or wine review<br />

check will be needed.<br />

Rosé can be made very<br />

dry to dry, with most New<br />

Zealand styles often justdry.<br />

What was once the<br />

medium to sweet option<br />

is all but gone. Rosé’s invogue<br />

status has ushered in<br />

a selection of more serious<br />

options, growing the range<br />

on offer, both at retail and<br />

on wine lists.<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>makers looking<br />

to produce a more<br />

serious expression of rosé<br />

pay particular attention<br />

towards aroma, complexity<br />

and structure for<br />

example - using natural<br />

fermentation for a portion<br />

or all of the juice. The use<br />

of older oak adds structure,<br />

even extended skin<br />

contact for more tannin<br />

and grip (the trade-off is<br />

more red pigment, but<br />

remember all rosé colour<br />

is valid). Even capturing<br />

a layer of minerality<br />

makes for more serious<br />

drinking options.<br />

<strong>Wine</strong>ries that<br />

specifically produce red<br />

wine have the option to<br />

change the juice-to-skin<br />

ratio, allowing winemakers<br />

to produce a darker<br />

coloured wine. To achieve<br />

this they need to bleed<br />

away some juice. This<br />

process is called Saignée<br />

- a French term meaning<br />

to ‘bleed’. The juice that is<br />

‘bled’ away after an initial<br />

12 – 24 hours skin contact<br />

is used to make rosé.<br />

Another option is when<br />

the intended outcome<br />

uses 100% of the juice<br />

available to make a rosé.<br />

The particular shade of<br />

rosé a producer ends<br />

up making depends on<br />

skin contact, exposure to<br />

oxygen and the use of oak<br />

or wine barrels.<br />

A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER COLOUR TASTES<br />

JUST AS SWEET – OR, THESE DAYS, DRY<br />

42 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER <strong>2019</strong>

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