World Of Wine Winter 2019

Aromatically
Speaking
All wines have aroma, a
signature set of smells
that define the variety or
blend of varieties used.
Winemaking techniques such as the use
of oak or extra time spent on lees post
ferment contribute to the final package
of smells referred to as ‘aroma’.
The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a
specific category of white grape
varieties which contain an extra set of
naturally-occurring compounds called
‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance, even
amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents
of wine. This makes them particularly
distinctive. Terpenes emerge in certain
varieties to a greater or lesser degree
based on growing conditions such as
soil, climate and viticulture practices.
The following wines are all classified
as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are
readily available in New Zealand:
Wurzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat,
Torrontes, Albarino, Riesling, Muller
Thurgau and Pinot Gris. These wines
are floral, fruity and can be quite
intense on both the nose and palate
with moderate acidity. Textures ranges
from soft and creamy to satin or silky
and crisp.
Gewürztraminer is the most intense
and exotic of the aromatic varieties
with flavours of tropical fruits, roses
and spices. Descriptors such as lavender,
talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper
and even apple strudel have been used
to describe the wine.
If you’re a whiz in the kitchen and
keen on food to serve with aromatic
wines, look to lush, creamy dishes. Paté,
tofu or cream of pumpkin soup work
deliciously well, while wet textured
proteins such as pork or sous-vide
chicken and turkey are an excellent
match. Asian cuisine is a common
pairing with aromatic varieties, but be
careful to stick to fragrant spiced menu
items, like lemongrass and galangal.
Heat spices in Asian dishes in general
inflame the spice and alcohol in the
wine, rendering the pairings impossible.
Wines that have a noticeable residual
sweetness such as an off-dry Riesling
often work well with spicy dishes. W
52 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019