Real Food Fall 2019

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JOSÉ ANDRÉS: DYNAMO ON A MISSION

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COMPLIMENTARY

FALL 2019

Gorgeous

Gourds

From soup to dessert,

discover deliciously different

ways to enjoy winter squash

03

FREE

HAUTE DISHES: Elevating the casserole

WEEKNIGHT FIX: Cook at home with 5 easy ideas

REINVENTING DINNER: Love your leftovers


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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing

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contents

Features

20 Haute Dishes

Elevate comforting casseroles with

a sprinkling of sophisticated touches

BY FAITH DURAND

real food

fall 2019

28 Gorgeous Gourds

Celebrate the harvest with delicious winter

squash recipes from soup to dessert

BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Weeknight Fix

Skip takeout and cook healthy,

easy meals at home

BY ROY FINAMORE

46 Reinventing Dinner

Love your leftovers

RECIPES BY JULIA TURSHEN

52 Dynamo on a Mission

José Andrés embraces food

and life with gusto

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments

4 Bites

Accessible Chinese food

RECIPES BY ANDREW, IRENE AND MARGARET LI

6 Kitchen Skills

A delicious taste of the

season—fresh tomato sauce

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors

17 Ingredient

Cauliflower: From side dish to pizza crust

BY ANNA BJORLIN

18 Healthy Habits

Tips for gut health

BY ERIK TORMOEN

56 Pairings

Beaujolais: Beyond nouveau

BY MARY SUBIALKA

THAI RED CURRY SQUASH AND

CHICKEN STEW (RECIPE PAGE 34)

2 real food spring fall 2017 2015


C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

27

43

56

Our Cover

Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry, Thyme

and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds (page 31)

Photograph by Terry Brennan

Food styling by Lara Miklasevics

recycleMAGAZINElogo_WHITE.pdf 1 6/23/16 2:55 PM

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN

SENIOR EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING CLAIRE NOACK CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA

ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK, ANNA BJORLIN, LIANNA MATT McLERNON AND ERIK TORMOEN

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH

VOLUME 15, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S, Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,

612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission

from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on

paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain

healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

fall 2009 2019 real food 3


ites

Getting Past Fried Rice

With the right recipes, anyone can dive into Chinese cooking

When you’re looking for new recipes to tackle, it can be difficult to find the sweet spot between being too simple and too

challenging—especially if it’s a cuisine you’re not familiar with cooking. To make Chinese food more accessible (and provide

new and delicious flavor combos for masters in the field), Andrew, Irene and Margaret Li, the three owners, chefs and siblings

of the Boston restaurant Mei Mei, wrote “Double Awesome Chinese Food.” Like their restaurant menu, some of the book recipes have

a decidedly Chinese American (and New England flavor) point of view—but with a more streamlined process for the everyday kitchen.

Whether you choose classics like the Beef and Broccoli or the Carrot Coconut Soup included below or something more contemporary,

there’s no doubt that you’ll score extra brownie points if you serve it family style, just as the Lis prefer. —Lianna Matt McLernon

Carrot Coconut Soup

MAKES 4 SERVINGS AS AN APPETIZER OR 2 SERVINGS AS A MAIN DISH

This soup won over our hearts with its bold and festive color and

hints of spice. With a creamy richness from the coconut milk,

it’s a warming and welcoming soup perfect for cooler days. We

like it with the Middle Eastern herb and spice mixture za’atar,

or you could try curry powder, ras el hanout or ground Sichuan

peppercorns. For garnish, you can swirl in a teaspoon of miso,

drizzle with olive oil or scatter with toasted croutons, chopped

herbs, pickles—you name it.

1 scallion

1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil

1 pound carrots, trimmed and sliced

into ½-inch-thick coins (5 to 6 carrots)

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon za’atar

½ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

2 cups water or vegetable broth

1 cup coconut milk

splash of apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar

1. Thinly slice the scallion, setting aside the white and lighter green slices for the pot and the darkest

green slices for garnish.

2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil is shimmering, add the white

and lighter green parts of the scallion, the carrots, garlic, ginger, za’atar, and salt to the pot. Cook,

stirring occasionally, until everything starts to brown and give off a toasty aroma, about 6 minutes.

Add the water and coconut milk, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, which will

help flavor the soup. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the carrots are softened,

about 30 minutes.

3. Carefully pour the hot soup into a blender or use an immersion blender to puree until smooth.

Explosion warning: If you’re going the blender route, fill only halfway and make sure to remove the

center of the blender cap so steam can escape. Use a thick tea towel to cover the hole instead and

start on low speed, working your way up. Thin with water if needed.

4. Stir in the vinegar for brightness, taste, and add more salt as needed. Sprinkle with the reserved

scallions or other toppings of your choice, then spoon into bowls and serve.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM

“DOUBLE AWESOME CHINESE FOOD”

BY MARGARET LI, IRENE LI AND

ANDREW LI © 2019 BY MARGARET LI,

IRENE LI AND ANDREW LI.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PIAZZA.

REPRINTED IN ARRANGEMENT WITH

ROOST BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF

SHAMBHALA PUBLICATIONS, INC.

4 real food fall 2019


Beef and Broccoli

MAKES 4 SERVINGS, WITH RICE OR OTHER SIDE DISHES

In our take on this classic Chinese restaurant dish, both the beef and the

broccoli get a lovely char and crunch. We pan-fry a steak to medium-rare

and oven-roast the broccoli; if you’ve only had limp, gloopy takeout versions

of this dish, you’ll be surprised by the texture and flavor in these florets

and stalks. Make sure you peel the broccoli stalk—it gets a bad rap, but

the sweet, nutty flavor is fantastic once you get past the tough outer layer.

For the Beef

1 pound flank, skirt or hanger steak

1 tablespoon soy sauce (substitute tamari if gluten free)

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine

2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola, divided

kosher salt

For the Broccoli

1½ pounds broccoli, stems trimmed, peeled and cut into

chunks, tops cut into florets

¼ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt

For the Sauce

1½ teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, minced

3 tablespoons oyster sauce

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons soy sauce (substitute tamari if gluten free)

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

For the Garnish

¼ cup Garlic Panko (See recipe right)

zest of 1 lemon, optional

Garlic Panko

MAKES ½ CUP

2 tablespoons neutral oil or olive oil

1 clove garlic

½ cup Japanese panko or homemade breadcrumbs

pinch of kosher salt

1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat

until shimmering, then add the garlic and stir until lightly

browned, about 1 minute. Add the panko and cook, stirring

constantly, until the breadcrumbs darken to a deep

golden brown, about 3 minutes. Discard the garlic clove,

transfer to a plate, sprinkle with the salt, and set aside to

cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature

for up to 2 weeks.

1. To marinate the beef: Combine the beef, soy sauce, wine and 1 tablespoon of oil in a sealable plastic bag. Marinate for at least

20 minutes while you prepare the broccoli and the sauce, or up to a day in advance.

2. To cook the broccoli: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the broccoli on a baking sheet and drizzle with the oil. Sprinkle with the salt, then

use your hands to toss and fully coat the broccoli. Roast for 15 minutes, then carefully flip the pieces of broccoli over with tongs. Roast for

another 5 minutes, then check to see if the broccoli has a good char. If not, continue to roast, checking every 5 minutes, until well browned.

3. To make the sauce: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and ginger and cook

until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Add the oyster sauce, honey, soy sauce, water and fish sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce

the heat to medium-low and cook at a low boil for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, until thick and sticky. Stir in

the vinegar and taste for seasoning; if the sauce is too salty, thin with a little water or meat stock.

4. To cook the beef: Lay the beef on a cutting board and, if necessary, cut in half crosswise so both pieces fit into your pan. Pat dry

with paper towels, then season lightly on both sides with salt. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large cast-iron or other heavybottomed

skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Using tongs, carefully lay the beef pieces flat in the pan and sear until browned

on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Flip and brown the other side, about 3 more minutes, turning the heat down if it gets too smoky. This

may be enough to cook to our preferred medium rare (125°F); if you prefer it more well done or have a thick steak, cook for another

3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing into thin pieces against the grain (across the

fibers of the meat).

5. To serve, put the broccoli and beef on a plate and drizzle with sauce. Sprinkle with panko and lemon zest, if using. Serve immediately

with white rice or a side dish of your choice.

fall 2019 real food 5


kitchen skills

Harvest of Flavor

Celebrate tomato season with your own fresh, delicious sauce

BY JASON ROSS

As we move into autumn, is your pantry still bursting at the seams with tomatoes fresh from the vine? Have you

already made your fair share of tomato basil salads and eaten your fill of BLT sandwiches? For a delicious taste

of the season, make some seriously fresh tomato sauce. The recipes here use a simple method for making

fresh tomato sauce, and then I include two options to either add deep grilled charred flavor or some zest and spice.

Which tomatoes make the best fresh tomato sauce? Roma tomatoes or San Marzano (if you can get them) are

most commonly used for sauce since they have a low moisture content and make rich flavors. However, feel free to

use whatever tomato variety is best at the time. A flavorful tomato will make a flavorful sauce. Also, do not be afraid

to mix varieties for your sauce. Try using Roma, beefsteak and even some heirloom varieties.

Cherry and pear tomato work particularly well in the charred sauce.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

6 real food fall 2019


Fresh Tomato Sauce

MAKES 1 QUART, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Taste the difference between fresh tomato sauce and canned. Both are good and

both have their place, but now is the time to take advantage of the best tomatoes

of the year. This sauce does great with simple thin noodles such as angel hair,

spaghetti or bucatini.

¼ cup olive oil

½ onion, diced

1 rib celery, diced

½ tablespoon salt

1 clove garlic, sliced thinly

1 anchovy, finely minced

(optional, See Cook’s Note)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2½ pounds tomatoes, cores removed

and roughly chopped

½ teaspoon dry thyme

½ teaspoon dry oregano

1 bay leaf

1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil on medium heat. Add onion, celery

and salt. Sweat for about 10 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon until soft,

but not brown.

2. Add garlic and optional anchovy, stirring for about 2 minutes, until the

garlic is fragrant and the anchovy melts into the fat.

3. Turn the heat up to medium high and add tomato paste. Cook for about

2 minutes, stirring, until the paste has changed from a bright red color to

more of a clay brick red.

4. Add the chopped tomatoes with their juices, plus the thyme, oregano and

bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until tomatoes start to break down and give up more

liquid. Bring liquid up to a boil and reduce heat to low, holding a gentle simmer

with no lid. The sauce, at this point, will be watery and thin.

5. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes on a gentle simmer, stirring a few times to prevent

scorching, until the sauce is thickened and all tomatoes fully softened. To

check the consistency, ladle a little sauce on a clean plate and observe how it

looks. Is it watery? Does it run on the plate? If so, cook the sauce a little longer.

6. Turn off the stove and allow sauce to cool for 5 to 10 minutes, until cool enough

to safely puree. Run sauce through a food mill or process in food processor.

7. Transfer sauce to containers and store in the refrigerator for up to 7 days,

or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Cook’s Note: Anchovies might seem like an odd addition to tomato sauce,

and you could skip them, but you might be surprised at what they do for your

sauce. One anchovy in a quart of tomato sauce will not turn it into anchovy

flavored sauce, but will instead add subtle flavor to the background. Think of

an anchovy as a supplement to salt rather than a central ingredient.

Variation: To make a Charred Chunky Tomato Sauce, prepare a hot grill. Put

the tomatoes directly on the grill and cook at high heat until the skins are

blackened and blistered on all sides, about 10 minutes. Place charred tomatoes

on a tray or in a bowl and wait until they are cool enough to handle.

Remove the cores and roughly chop. Make sure to save all the juices. Add

the tomatoes to the pot of sweated onion, celery, tomato paste and optional

anchovies, as in step 4 listed above. Add tomato paste and finish cooking

the sauce with the herbs. When the sauce is done, skip the food mill or processor,

and serve the sauce chunky with all the char on the blackened skins.

If you like a little spice, add some chili flakes or minced Fresno chilis to the

spices. This sauce does well with penne or orecchiette, or other shapes that

hold stew-like sauces.

Creamy Curry

Tomato Sauce

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Change fresh tomato sauce into a rich curry flavored

sauce. Simply sweat some minced aromatic

vegetables with curry spices and finish with a little

cream. Add the mixture to tomato sauce to create a

mild, creamy curry tomato sauce that’s perfect for

wide noodles such as fettuccine or pappardelle, or

try it with grilled fish or chicken.

1 tablespoon butter

½ onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, minced

½ tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground clove

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup milk

NUTRITION

1 quart fresh tomato sauce

1. In a small sauce pan over medium heat, melt

butter and sweat onion, garlic and ginger for 2 to

3 minutes until fragrant and softened. Add spices

and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in cream and milk

and simmer for 10 minutes until thickened. Add

curry cream to 1 quart of fresh tomato sauce.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 105 (71 from fat); FAT 8g (sat.

1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 519mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 2g;

PROTEIN 2g

fall 2019 real food 7


contributors

Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and

beautiful whole, real foods can be

through her work as an author,

cooking teacher and private chef.

She likes to create delicious dishes

that range from meat and seafood to

beans and grains using global flavors.

Her latest book is “Plant-Based

Meats.” She is also the author of

“300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your

Vitamix”; “Great Bowls of Food: Grain

Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls

and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan:

Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy,

All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”;

and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the

camera, cooking at the renowned

New French Café in Minneapolis.

Today her work as a stylist is in

demand at corporations including

Heinz, Target and General Mills, as

well as with many magazines. She

prides herself on using her experience

as a chef to make food as appealing

on the page as it is on the plate.

Tara Q. Thomas intended to

be a chef when she trained at the

Culinary Institute of America in New

York but got sidetracked by wine.

She has been writing about it

for nearly 20 years now, most

prominently at Wine & Spirits

Magazine, where she is executive

editor. Author of “The Complete

Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics” and a

contributor to “The Oxford Companion

to Cheese” and the forthcoming

“The Oxford Companion to Spirits

and Cocktails,” she also sits on the

advisory panel for the International

Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training

Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New

York, juggling a laptop and two small

children. She still cooks nearly nightly,

albeit for a smaller crowd.

Roy Finamore is respected

throughout the food world for creating

cookbooks that are both stylish and

perfect for the home cook. He is

author of the James Beard Awardwinning

“Tasty: Get Great Food on

the Table Every Day” and coauthor of

“The Red Rooster Cookbook,” “Marcus

Off Duty” (a James Beard Award

nominee), and “Fish without a Doubt,”

among other titles. As an editor,

he introduced Ina Garten and Tom

Colicchio to the publishing world. His

other authors include Martha Stewart,

Diana Kennedy and Jacques Pépin.

8 real food fall 2019

Terry Brennan is a

photographer based in Minneapolis,

Minnesota. Clients include Target,

General Mills, Land O’Lakes and

Hormel. “Working with Real Food

is a highlight for me—I look forward

to every issue. I love working with

the creative team and, of course,

sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing

menus and concepts for multiple high

profile properties. He trained and grew

up in New York City but now calls

St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently,

he teaches the next generation of chefs

at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Faith Durand is editor-in-chief

of Kitchn (thekitchn.com), an online

resource for home cooks. She is the

author of several cookbooks, including

the James Beard Award-winning

“The Kitchn Cookbook” and her first

book, “Not Your Mother’s Casseroles.”

She is passionate about reimagining

cooking, eating and community in

smart, practical ways for modern life.

She lives in Columbus, Ohio, with her

husband and two toddler daughters.


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Abundance

of Apples

As the temperature dips and the

leaves change colors, my thoughts

quickly turn to some of the many

things that are great about this time of

year. Goodbye, humidity and mosquitos.

Hello, high school football and all things

apple and spice.

Despite our state’s short growing season,

Minnesota has a good climate for apple

growing because of our cold winters and

moderate summer temperatures and

humidity. Today we have more than 100

apple orchards throughout our state with

about 25 in and around the Twin Cities.

That means there are plenty of options

for embracing the season and enjoying

local apples.

If a trip to the apple orchard isn’t in your

plans this fall, visit one of our produce

departments to pick up local apples we

get from family-owned Wescott Orchards

in Elgin and Fireside Orchard & Gardens

in Northfield. While we don’t offer hayrides

or a chance to pick the apples right

from the tree, they are incredibly fresh

as they are in our stores within days of

being picked. To learn more about the

local apples you’ll find in our stores this

fall, check out our apple guide on page 10.

Not only are many apples grown in

Minnesota—nearly 20 million pounds per

year, according to the Minnesota Department

of Agriculture—but we’ve also had

some wonderful apples developed right

here in our own backyard by the University

of Minnesota. Think Honeycrisp (our

state fruit), SweeTango and First Kiss, to

name a few.

Another one of the nearly 30 apple

varieties created by the University of Minnesota

since its breeding program began

in 1888 is the Haralson. This firm, crisp

apple has a tart flavor and is perfect for

baking. We discovered just how amazing

Haralson apples are when we developed

our signature L&B Haralson Apple Pie

nearly 20 years ago.

The pie immediately became a customer

favorite and remains so today. Nearly

110,000 pounds of Haralson apples are

used every year to create these amazing

pies. The apples are mixed with our own

unique blend of spices and placed inside a

flaky, all-butter crust. If you’ve never tried

one, I can’t think of a better time than now

to embrace fall and local apples.

We hope you continue to enjoy Real

Food!

Sincerely,

Tres Lund

President and CEO

FOOD QUESTIONS?

Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS

Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9


Lunds & Byerlys

bakery

Sweet Autumn

Discover fantastic fall-flavored finds in the bakery BY AMY FOUKS, DIRECTOR OF BAKERY

As the leaves begin to fall and the weather gets colder, the bold, spicy flavors of autumn start to make their way

back into the bakery. Whatever you’re craving, we’ve got it all, from traditional pies to festive treats and more.

Here are some fantastic fall finds in our bakery.

PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE

The ultimate indulgent dessert! Our

bakers make our pumpkin cheesecake with

our exclusive recipe: pumpkin puree, real

cream cheese and just a touch of molasses

results in a rich, dense cheesecake. The

sweet graham cracker crust provides a nice

contrast to the smooth filling. It’s topped

with a checkered pattern of powdered

sugar and is delicious served with a dollop

of whipped cream.

HARALSON APPLE PIE

A customer favorite! This popular pie was

created in partnership with the University

of Minnesota more than 20 years ago when

they first debuted the Haralson apple. Each

pie is made using two pounds of locally

grown Haralson apples that stay crisp—

even after baking—for the perfect bite.

The pie also features a flaky all-butter crust

and a special blend of spices to top it off.

It’s perfect served with a scoop of vanilla

ice cream and a drizzle of L&B Sea Salt

Caramel Ice Cream Topping.

PUMPKIN PIE

Baked fresh every day! Our pumpkin pie

filling starts with a delicious combination

of fresh pumpkin puree, cinnamon, cloves

and nutmeg—our exclusive recipe. It’s all

poured into our old-fashioned flaky crust

and baked to perfection. We love it served

with a big dollop of whipped cream—or

for a fun variation, try maple-flavored or

ginger-flavored whipped cream.

10 real food fall 2019


Guide to

Minnesota Apples

Honeycrisp

Extremely crisp and

juicy with a balanced,

sweet-tart flavor. Best

eaten fresh, used in

baking or for applesauce.

(Available late September).

First Kiss

This new apple is lightly

tart and aromatic with

a super crisp texture.

Eat out of hand or add

to a snack tray or salad.

(Available mid-August).

Zestar

This apple has a

sweet-tart taste with

hints of brown sugar.

The light, crisp texture

results in a nice crunch.

Best enjoyed on its own.

(Available early

September).

SweeTango

This apple is crisp and

sweet with a lively touch

of citrus and honey and a

subtle hint of spice. Best

eaten fresh. (Available

early September).

RiverBelle

Crisp and juicy, the

RiverBelle is equal parts

sweet and acidic, which

results in a delicate

flavor. Best eaten fresh.

(Available in August).

McIntosh

This bright red apple

has a rich flavor and

tender texture that

softens when cooked.

Enjoy in applesauce, pies

or on its own. (Available

late September).

Haralson

This firm, crisp apple

has a juicy, tart flavor

and red color. Perfect

for eating fresh or

making pies or

applesauce. (Available

late September or

early October).

Pazazz

This late-season apple

has a sweet yet tart

flavor with a huge

crunch. It’s delicious

used in pies or other

baking. (Available late

October).

Sweet Sixteen

This late-season apple

is rose red in color with

a sugary taste and fine

texture. Best enjoyed

in applesauce or eating

fresh. (Available late

September).


Lunds & Byerlys

meal solutions

Sheet Pan Suppers

Cook a healthy, family friendly meal–and avoid the dreaded dish washing–by trying

one of our simple sheet pan suppers

Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Sheet Pan Supper

Chicken and Sweet MAKES Potatoes 4 SERVINGS Sheet Pan Supper

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This easy meat-and-potatoes dinner is perfect for busy weeknights.

This easy meat-and-potatoes dinner is perfect for busy weeknights.

2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs

salt and pepper, to taste

2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs 1 (14-ounce) container L&B Sweet 1. Potato Heat oven Cubes to 350°F. L&B Line Chicken a sheet & pan Turkey with Poultry foil.

1 (14-ounce) container L&B Sweet 2 tablespoons Potato Cubes olive oil

2. Place chicken thighs Seasoning the sheet to pan. taste Boneless chicken

2 tablespoons olive oil

thighs will work, too. Just reduce the cooking time for the chicken,

with as it foil. will cook much faster without bones.

salt and pepper, to taste 1. Heat oven to 350°F. Line a sheet pan

L&B Chicken & Turkey Poultry 2. Place Seasoning chicken to thighs taste on the sheet 3. pan. Add Boneless cubed sweet chicken potatoes. thighs will Drizzle work, with too. olive Just oil. reduce the

cooking time for the chicken, as it will 4. cook Season much with faster salt without and pepper bones. to taste and sprinkle with L&B

3. Add cubed sweet potatoes. Drizzle Chicken with olive & oil. Turkey Poultry Seasoning.

4. Season with salt and pepper to taste 5. and Bake sprinkle about 35 with minutes, L&B Chicken or until & Turkey chicken Poultry is brown Seasoning. and reaches

5. Bake about 35 minutes, or until chicken 165°F is with brown a meat and thermometer reaches 165°F and with the a potatoes meat thermometer are tender.

and the potatoes are tender.

12 real food fall 2019


Lunds & Byerlys

meal solutions

Sheet Pan Roasted Sausages

with Peppers and Onions

MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

The sausages are roasted directly on top of the peppers and onions, so

the vegetables can absorb all the juices, and then everything is served

on a bed of fresh arugula.

1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips

1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips

1 small onion, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds

1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for sprinkling

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 pound sausages, pricked with a fork

½ teaspoon red wine vinegar, plus more for sprinkling

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano

fresh arugula, for serving (optional)

2 ounces ricotta salata, crumbled (about ⅓ cup)

1. Heat oven to 400°F.

2. In a bowl, toss the peppers and onion with the oil, salt and black

pepper. Spread the vegetables out in a single layer on a rimmed sheet

pan and roast until they are tender but not caramelized, about 10 to

15 minutes.

3. Arrange the sausages on top of the peppers and onion. Continue

roasting until the peppers are caramelized and the sausages are

cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes. If the sausages and/or peppers

are not browned enough at this point, you can slide the whole pan

under the broiler for 1 or 2 minutes. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t burn.

4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the vinegar and oregano.

5. Before serving, toss the peppers and onion with the vinegar mixture.

Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary (it might need more vinegar

if your onion is very sweet). If you are using the arugula, divide

it among individual serving plates and sprinkle with a little olive oil

and a few drops of red wine vinegar. Arrange the peppers, onions

and sausages over the arugula. Sprinkle with the cheese and serve.

Sheet Pan Mini Meatloaves

with Green Beans and Potatoes

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

You can make this hearty meat-and-potatoes meal on one sheet

pan for easy cleanup.

1½ pounds fingerling or gold creamer potatoes,

quartered

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

salt, to taste

2 pounds lean ground beef

1 tablespoon garlic powder

½ yellow onion, finely chopped

½ cup plain bread crumbs

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce

1 pound green beans, trimmed

1. Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the center position.

2. Toss the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon

of the olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Spread them

evenly, then set a wire rack on top.

3. In a large bowl, gently combine the beef, garlic powder,

onion, bread crumbs and ¾ cup barbecue sauce. Shape the

mixture into 4 small loaves and place them on the wire rack

over the potatoes.

4. Bake the potatoes and meatloaves for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, toss the green beans with the remaining olive

oil and a pinch of salt.

5. Remove the pan from the oven. Brush the loaves with

the remaining barbecue sauce and scatter the green beans

around them. Return the pan to the oven and bake about

12 minutes more, until the potatoes and beans are tender and

a thermometer inserted into a meatloaf registers 150°F.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

REPUBLIC OF TEA BEAUTIFYING

BOTANICALS TEAS

Sip and nourish your skin from the inside out. Republic of Tea’s Beautifying

Botanicals teas are hydrating, violet-hued herbal infusions containing a

proprietary blend of botanicals that can help improve your complexion.

Both varieties—daily beauty blueberry lavender and beauty sleep chamomile

rose tea—are made with collagen-promoting blue butterfly pea flower, hydrating

hibiscus and skin-protecting schizandra.

Did you know? These aromatic blends are caffeine-free, which means

you can indulge in a bedtime beauty ritual with a calming, nourishing cup of tea.

A squeeze of lemon adds a bright flavor and a beautiful color.

DARLING PICKLE DIPS

Darling Foods is a women-owned and operated business run by

a pair of best friends. They hand make their Darling Pickle Dips

in Minneapolis by blending zesty pickled vegetables with cream

cheese and white beans to create a spreadable, snackable and

even recipe-building dip! Flavors include original dill pickle, white

cheddar with mustard and spicy pickle.

Tip: Try your favorite dip smeared on a BLT or burger. Or put a

twist on guacamole by combining two mashed avocados with

a tub of spicy pickle dip and a pinch of salt. Yum!

MUTTI TOMATO

PRODUCTS

Since 1899, the Mutti family has been growing tomatoes in Parma, Italy.

The recipe for their long success is simple—just sun, soil and rain. The

key to their unique taste is their painstaking selection of the ripest Italian

tomatoes, which are processed within 24 hours of being picked. Offerings

include double- and triple-concentrated tomato paste, cherry tomatoes,

peeled whole tomatoes, finely chopped tomatoes and tomato puree.

Did you know? Mutti is the No. 1 brand of tomato products in Italy.

14 real food fall 2019


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

DE NIGRIS BALSAMIC VINEGARS

For more than three generations, the De Nigris family has dedicated itself to

the production of vinegar. Their high-quality products are made in Modena,

Italy from a blend of wine vinegar and concentrated grape must from seven

regional varietals of grapes. The quality of their vinegars stems from their

immense care taken during every step of the process, from growing grapes

to harvesting and bottling.

Tip: The bronze balsamic is perfect for cold dishes and marinades.

The high-density platinum balsamic is thick and intense, making it great

for gourmet dishes like risotto. And the gold balsamic is dense and fragrant,

which is wonderful paired with braised meats and fine cheeses.

KITU SUPER

ESPRESSO

Whether you need a boost of

energy for a workout, to power

through a study session or to

keep up with the kids, KITU

Super Espresso provides some

of the cleanest energy on the

shelf. With just 40 calories,

0 grams of sugar and 5 grams

of protein, it’s the perfect

pick-me-up without all the

guilt. Super Espresso flavors include original, vanilla and caramel.

Did you know? KITU was founded by three brothers—Jordan,

Jake and Jimmy. Each Super Espresso has three shots of espresso

representing the three brothers, which equals 180 mg of caffeine.

L&B FROZEN

VEGETABLES

Our new L&B Frozen Vegetables are

delicious, on-trend offerings made

with only the very best ingredients.

Each convenient variety takes just

minutes to heat and is a nutritious

alternative to traditional grain and

starch side dishes and entrées. Choose

from scrumptious mashed cauliflower,

broccoli & cheese, mashed cauliflower,

zucchini spirals, butternut squash

spirals, mixed vegetable spirals,

riced medley of broccoli, carrot &

cauliflower, riced cauliflower stir fry

and Mediterranean riced cauliflower.

Tip: Try the L&B Mixed Vegetable Spirals

in a batch of homemade soup or swap

out pasta with L&B Butternut Squash

Spirals during spaghetti night!

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15


ingredient

Cauliflower Craze

This versatile vegetable has been showing up as pizza crust,

rice and steaks on plates all across the country

CAULIFLOWER YURAKP - ADOBE STOCK

BY ANNA BJORLIN

A

few years ago, who would have

believed cauliflower would

become the superstar it is today?

Gone are the days of plain, unseasoned

and too-often boiled florets. Instead,

chefs are adding cauliflower to curries,

soups and mac ‘n cheese, even going

so far as to transform the previously

dull vegetable into upscale dishes such

as soufflés and risotto.

An extremely healthy vegetable,

cauliflower is low in calories, high in

vitamins, a very good source of fiber,

and a significant source of minerals and

omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains

unique plant compounds that studies have

shown may help reduce the risk of heart

disease and stroke—two of the five leading

causes of death in the country. In addition,

this cruciferous vegetable is a favorite

among vegetarians, vegans, gluten-sensitive

eaters and dieters alike because it

provides a wealth of alternative low-carb,

protein-based options. The ample amount

of fiber it contains also helps slow digestion

and promote feelings of fullness, which

can contribute to reducing the number of

calories you eat throughout the day.

And the best part? It’s very easy to add

to your diet. Roast it in a side dish, pickle

it and add it in a salad, mash it to replace

potatoes (check out our recipe for Creamy

Garlic Mashed Cauliflower on page 51),

and even deep-fry it in buffalo sauce for a

chicken-wing substitute. From pizza dough

(pulse it in a food processor) to rice (grate

and sauté it), all the way to the soft, chewy

brownies you see pictured here, it seems

there’s no end to the delicious and unique

ways cauliflower can be used.

Cauliflower Brownies with

Salted Coconut Caramel Sauce

MAKES 16 BROWNIES

12 ounces cauliflower, leaves and For the Salted Caramel Sauce

core removed, cut into florets 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk

1 cup medjool dates, stones

5½ ounces coconut sugar

removed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

1 tablespoon coconut oil

2 tablespoons espresso coffee

½ teaspoon sea salt

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1 cup white spelt flour

½ cup hazelnuts, ground, plus extra to garnish

½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

½ tablespoon ground flaxseeds

generous 1/3 cup dark/bittersweet chocolate chips

coconut chips, to garnish (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch square cake pan and line with

parchment paper and set aside.

2. First, make the caramel sauce by bringing the coconut milk and coconut sugar

to a boil in a pan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and

then, stirring occasionally, continue to simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the

mixture becomes thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat and vigorously stir

in the vanilla, coconut oil and salt. Transfer to a glass jar or container and put in

the freezer for about an hour, or until the mixture thickens.

3. Place a colander over a pan of simmering water. Add the cauliflower florets

and cover with a lid. Steam for 20 minutes or until tender, then leave to cool.

Put the cauliflower in a blender and blitz

with the dates, vanilla paste, coffee and

maple syrup.

4. In a bowl, combine the flour, ground

hazelnuts, cocoa powder and flaxseeds.

Stir in the cauliflower mixture until combined.

Fold in the chocolate chips and

spoon into the lined cake pan. Bake for

20 minutes, until the brownies feel firm

to the touch. Remove from the oven and

leave to cool in the pan. Cut into squares

and drizzle with the caramel sauce to

serve. Garnish with extra hazelnuts and

coconut chips, if you like.

RECIPE AND PHOTO FROM “CAULIFLOWER POWER: VEGETARIAN & VEGAN RECIPES TO NOURISH AND SATISFY”

BY KATHY KORDALIS ©2019 COURTESY OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTO BY MOWIE KAY.

fall 2019 real food 17


healthy

habits

Gut Feeling

To cut through an overload of information on gut health, here are

some pointers for eating without upsetting your stomach

BY ERIK TORMOEN

If your stomach is sensitive, hopefully you realize it’s also

pretty amazing.

The human gut developed during our hunter-gatherer

period, some 1.8 million years ago. We ate simply—meats,

leaves, nuts, fruits. Then, within the relative blip of 10,000

years, our food changed dramatically, as described in

“Cooking for the Sensitive Gut” by nutritionist Joan Ransley

and gastroenterologist Nick Read.

We started cultivating grasses for flour, preserving spoils for

winter, and cooking things for taste and digestion. Industrial

farming worldwide let us eat out of season. Food became more

plentiful, more diverse and more processed.

Meanwhile, the old gastrointestinal tract—a 20- to 30-foot

tube that works overtime as a “chopper, mixer, digester,

extractor and salvage system in one,” as described by Ransley

and Read—still hasn’t caught up.

Thus, some of us deal with digestion-interferent disorders,

diseases and intolerances. They include irritable bowel

syndrome (IBS), celiac disease, Crohn’s disease, ulcerative

colitis, gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) and lactose

intolerance. Direct causes range from multi-factorial to

relatively unknown. Still others of us report frequent inflammation,

bloating, stomachaches, constipation, diarrhea and other

bouts of digestive discomfort unrelated to disease.

“Many times, there’s not a one-size-fits-all solution,

unfortunately,” says Mary Wirtz, a clinical registered dietitian

at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minnesota. As research comes

in about gut microbiomes, we’re still discovering how our

stomachs’ unique bacterial ecosystems work. Until then, there

are simple ways to address digestion issues that cut through

the noise of gluten-free, dairy-free, big-diet advisories.

1. CUT DOWN ON PROCESSED, SUGAR-ADDED FOODS

AND SATURATED FAT. Yep, you guessed it. These are the big

offenders. Concentrated sweets include the obvious—pastries,

candy, sugar-sweetened beverages—and the less obvious,

like granola. Added, refined sugars can cause painful gut

inflammation. Without significant fiber, they also do nothing to

aid digestion. Saturated fat, found in regular-fat dairy products

as well as red and processed meats, can also provoke flare-ups.

2. GET 3 TO 5 SERVINGS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

PER DAY. “From an anti-inflammatory perspective, we really

promote more of a Mediterranean-type diet, where the

predominate basis is plant-based,” Wirtz says. Fiber-rich

fruits and veggies move digestion along—but, of course,

don’t go overboard. Those with histories of abdominal bloating

and diarrhea risk exacerbating those symptoms by adding

too much fiber too fast.

3. TAKE THE TEMPORARY-ELIMINATION APPROACH.

Wirtz sees many patients who come in blaming gluten for

their stomach issues. Usually, she says, the trigger is not

the gluten—a cereal-grain protein often found in convenient

sources of fiber, vitamins and minerals—but the refined sugar,

saturated fat or added salt.

Still, the gut works in mysterious ways. Those who can’t pin

down a diagnosis can try eliminating one suspect for two to

three weeks. They might target wheat, dairy, acidic foods or

anything else. After removing the ingredient for 14 to 21 days,

reintroduce it into your diet and pay attention to how you feel.

4. STAY ON TOP OF LOST NUTRIENTS. “With dairy, similar

to gluten, people at times can unnecessarily cut it out,”

Wirtz says. “But,” she adds, “there’s no reason why dairy is

PHOTO SEWCREAM - ADOBE STOCK

18 real food fall 2019


necessary.” If you opt to remove dairy, just pay attention to

the nutrients you’re losing, such as calcium, vitamin D and

protein, and add them elsewhere. Those who eliminate gluten

can turn to quinoa for protein, fiber and microminerals.

5. CONSIDER PROBIOTICS. After taking out added sugar

and saturated fat, introducing more fruits and veggies, and

conducting trial eliminations, those with continuing stomach

issues can try foods rich in probiotics. These microorganisms

live in the gut, and we often think of them as “good bacteria”—

potentially replacing “bad bacteria” and helping with common

symptoms of IBS. Fermented foods that ferry probiotics include

sauerkraut, kimchi and kombucha. Be careful with kefir, a

cultured yogurt drink, Wirtz says; the stuff you buy at the store

sometimes comes with added sugar to mask its sourness.

6. MAKE CHANGES GRADUALLY. Your GI tract needs time to

adjust to dietary drama stirred up by additions and subtractions.

“Let’s say you go from zero grams of dietary fiber per day

to 30,” Wirtz says. “That can either back you up or clean you out

really quickly.” The same goes for cutting sugars, adding fruits

and veggies, and introducing fermented foods.

7. GOT HIVES, FLUSHING OR HEADACHES? Test against

potential protein triggers to rule out allergies, and then

see if you’re right for a low-histamine diet. Histamine is a

compound that regulates inflammation and itching released

in response to allergens. It’s found in many foods, such as

yogurt, shellfish, avocados and nuts.

8. “IN MODERATION” IS A RELATIVE TERM—although it’s

become sweet-tooths’ saving grace. “For some people, that

moderation may be two Cokes a day versus 10,” Wirtz says.

“In my opinion, that’s still excessive.” Instead, think “infrequently.”

Make it a special treat for a special occasion.

9. SEE A PROFESSIONAL. “I don’t recommend unnecessarily

cutting out foods from your diet unless you feel that it’s really

contributing to an intolerance,” Wirtz stresses. “Because,

oftentimes, those are just foods that provide a lot of good

vitamins and minerals that our bodies need from a healthprevention

perspective.” Since everyone’s gut is different,

tracking it with a dietitian can help rule out courses of

action. That way, you’re not stuck on the low-FODMAP diet,

a restrictive plan often recommended for IBS that limits

fermentable carbs. “It just makes their life more tedious,”

Wirtz says, “because you’re having to plan around that and

cook around that and eat out around that.”

Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns

or before making any major dietary changes.

Baked White Fish with

Crunchy Pine Nut, Parmesan

and Basil Crust

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

A flavored breadcrumb crust can transform a humble piece

of fish into a first-class tasty dish. Always use really fresh

fish if you can get it. As for breadcrumbs, you can use

gluten-free or sourdough if you prefer, but you should be

comfortable with small quantities of one-day-old white

bread (one slice per person).

1/3 cup pine nuts, slightly crushed

1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

4 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

4 tablespoons chopped basil leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

4 (4-ounce) white fish fillets, such as cod,

haddock or hake

2 tablespoons white wine

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Mix together the pine nuts, breadcrumbs, Parmesan,

basil, salt and pepper to taste, and 2 tablespoons of the

olive oil in a small bowl.

3. Remove any pin bones from the fish and rinse under cold

water. Pat the fillets dry with paper towel.

4. Brush an ovenproof dish with the remaining olive oil. Lay

the fish fillets in the dish and sprinkle with the wine. Cover

with the breadcrumbs and cook for about 10 minutes, or

until the topping is golden brown and crunchy.

PHOTO AND RECIPE FROM “COOKING FOR THE SENSITIVE GUT” BY

DR. JOAN RANSLEY AND DR. NICK READ ©2019 REPRINTED WITH

PERMISSION OF COLLINS & BROWN. PHOTO BY JOAN RANSLEY.

fall 2019 real food 19


Haute Dishes

Elevate comforting casseroles with a sprinkling

of sophisticated touches and nary a can of soup in sight

BY FAITH DURAND

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS


CHICKEN ORZO FLORENTINE

(RECIPE PAGE 27)

LEFT: BAKED PENNE ALLA VODKA

(RECIPE PAGE 23)

fall 2019 real food 21


BAKED RISOTTO

WITH LEMON SHRIMP

22 real food fall 2019


Casseroles represent the best of cooking: They are generous and feed a multitude, they are thrifty and make-ahead,

and they always please a crowd. But they can also fall victim to a punchline in a joke about old-fashioned, heavy

food. Are casseroles too dowdy and down-home to serve to company? No! It’s time to put hotdish jokes to bed because

these recipes show how classy a casserole can be. These bakes are best-in-class with more vegetables, no canned soups

and plenty of sophisticated charm. From a vibrant Mediterranean pasta bake to oven risotto with a tangle of lemon

shrimp, these are casseroles that truly do it all and look gorgeous on any table.

Baked Risotto with Lemon Shrimp

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

If I could pick one casserole to serve to company, this would be it. The

oven makes a dreamy, easy risotto that is hands-off, with no stirring

required. The rice is still tender and al dente, with a creamy, herbflecked

sauce. The shrimp are broiled right on top of the risotto for

a really spectacular presentation and easy serving.

1 lemon

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 small white onion (8 ounces), diced

2 cups Arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine such as a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio

5 cups low-sodium chicken broth, divided

2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 pound uncooked shrimp, deveined with tails,

thawed and drained

freshly ground black pepper

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

3/4 cup frozen peas

1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, plus more to garnish

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Use a vegetable peeler to peel the lemon,

reserving the peel. Juice the lemon and reserve.

2. Place a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or pot over medium heat and

melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Gently cook the onion and garlic

until fragrant and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and cook,

stirring frequently, for another 2 minutes or until the grains of rice

are translucent at the edges.

3. Raise the heat to medium and pour in the wine. Cook for about

1 minute, stirring constantly, or until it has mostly evaporated.

Add 4 cups of broth, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the reserved lemon

peel. Bring to a simmer, then cover with a lid and bake for

18 minutes.

4. While the risotto is baking, prep the shrimp. Toss the shrimp in a

large bowl with the lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and

a generous amount of black pepper.

5. Remove the lid of the Dutch oven and stir in the remaining

1 cup broth, Parmesan cheese, peas and Italian parsley.

6. Turn the oven to broil. Arrange the shrimp on top of the risotto and

broil uncovered for 5 minutes or until the shrimp is pink and cooked

through. Garnish with additional parsley and serve immediately.

Baked Penne alla Vodka

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This pasta bake is everything my Italian-American husband

wants in a pasta bake: creamy red sauce (left a little chunky

for a satisfyingly meaty tomato texture), al dente penne (it

cooks right in the oven, in its sauce), and a crispy, delicate

layer of prosciutto hovering on top for an impressive finish.

16 ounces uncooked penne pasta

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 garlic cloves, roughly minced

2 (28-ounce) cans of diced tomatoes

with their juices

1/2 cup vodka

2 cups cream

2 teaspoons salt

freshly ground black pepper

11/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided

4 ounces prosciutto, cut with scissors into

rough pieces or strips

olive oil

finely chopped Italian parsley, to garnish

1. Heat the oven to 400°F and grease a 9x13-inch baking

dish with baking spray or olive oil. Spread the penne in

the dish.

2. Melt the butter in a deep sauté pan or 4-quart pot and

cook the garlic over low heat until fragrant and soft, about

3 minutes. Pour in the tomatoes with their juices and bring

to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add the vodka and cook for another 2 minutes.

3. Whisk in the cream and bring back to a simmer. Cook

for 1 minute then remove from the heat. Whisk in the salt

and a generous quantity of black pepper, along with 1 cup

of Parmesan cheese.

4. Pour the sauce over the penne and stir. Cover the baking

dish tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove

the foil and turn the oven to broil. Cover the top of the

pasta dish with the cut strips of prosciutto and drizzle

lightly with olive oil. Broil for 5 minutes or until the prosciutto

is crisp.

5. Top with the remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and Italian

parsley to garnish. Serve immediately.

fall 2019 real food 23


Ham and Gruyère Potato Gratin

MAKES 6 SERVINGS AS A MAIN DISH

Ham and potato casserole is an absolute bedrock of casserole culture.

How many times have you seen this classic on a potluck table? I love the

old-school version, but I also think that a potato casserole lends itself

beautifully to a more upscale interpretation. I substitute a brown-butter

white sauce for the can of soup, and fresh potatoes for frozen (slicing

them gratin-style classes this up, too). Caramelized onions, whole-grain

mustard and rosemary level-up the flavor for a ham and potato bake that

deserves to be the star of a dinner party.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 large white onion (1 pound), cut into quarter moons

21/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 tablespoon minced rosemary, from 1 large sprig

1/3 cup flour

3 cups whole milk

freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

3/4 pound thickly-sliced ham, roughly torn or chopped

1/2 pound shredded Gruyère cheese, divided

3 pounds russet potatoes, well-scrubbed

finely-chopped Italian parsley, to garnish

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with baking

spray or butter.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. Stir in the onions and

sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. Cook on medium heat (lower the heat

if onions begin to crisp or burn on edges), stirring occasionally, until

onions are light brown and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Near the

end of cooking, stir in the garlic and rosemary.

3. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a 3-quart

saucepan over medium heat. Let the butter brown until it smells toasty

and darkens in color. Remove from the heat and rapidly whisk in the

flour; it will clump up into thick, oily crumbs. Pour in about ½ cup of

milk, whisking vigorously, then return to the heat and slowly whisk in

the rest of the milk, beating each time until the mixture is relatively

smooth. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat. The sauce will

be the consistency of a thin batter. Stir in a generous quantity of black

pepper as well as the mustard.

4. Scrape the white sauce into a large bowl and stir in the caramelized

onions, ham and half of the shredded Gruyère cheese. Cut each

potato lengthwise, then use a mandoline or very sharp knife to slice

about ¼-inch thick. Stir into the white sauce as the potatoes are sliced.

5. Spread the potatoes and sauce evenly in the prepared dish and

sprinkle the remaining Gruyère over the top. Cover tightly with foil. Bake

45 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 25 to 35 minutes or

until potatoes are tender. Turn oven to broil and broil for 5 minutes or

until top browns and edges bubble. Sprinkle lightly with finely chopped

parsley to garnish. It may look soupy but will firm up quickly as it cools.

Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

24 real food fall 2019


HAM AND GRUYÈRE

POTATO GRATIN

fall 2019 real food 25


26 real food fall 2019

SAUCY WHITE BEAN

AND SAUSAGE BAKE


Saucy White Bean

and Sausage Bake

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This hearty bake is a fresher take on the casserole as comfort

food, turning to beans as its main protein and folding in a colorful

mix of red pepper and kale. Its zingy flavors and crispy

top make this great to eat on its own, as a sort of oven stew, or

you can serve it over pasta, rice or a bowl of steamed greens.

3 (15-ounce) cans cannellini or Great Northern

beans, drained

12 ounces chicken andouille sausage, sliced into

diagonal half-moons

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 small onion (8 ounces), roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

1 (12-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained

and roughly chopped

3 ounces baby kale, roughly chopped

1 lemon, juiced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

freshly-ground black pepper

1 (24-ounce) jar marinara sauce

11/3 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided

2 tablespoons coarse cornmeal

⅔ cup breadcrumbs

1. Heat oven to 400°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with

baking spray or olive oil. Spread the drained beans in the

baking dish.

2. Sear the chicken sausage in a large skillet over mediumhigh

heat until browned, then turn down the heat and stir in

the olive oil. Cook the onion and garlic until fragrant, 3 to 5

minutes. Stir in the red peppers and the chopped kale and

cook for about 1 minute or until wilted. Stir in the lemon juice

and salt, and a generous amount of fresh pepper.

3. Stir the contents of the skillet into the dish of beans. Stir in

the marinara sauce. Add 2/3 cup Parmesan and the cornmeal.

4. In a small bowl mix the breadcrumbs and the remaining

2/3 cup Parmesan with a generous glug of olive oil. Mix with

fingers until the texture of wet sand. Strew over top of the

beans and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake uncovered for

30 minutes or until browned and bubbling.

Chicken Orzo Florentine

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Sun-dried tomatoes, capers, lemon, olives: This pasta bake is a

fabulous mix of all the Mediterranean flavors I love. You don’t even

have to cook the pasta ahead. It absorbs all of those tastes and bakes

to perfectly al dente in the oven.

16 ounces uncooked orzo pasta

1/4 cup pine nuts

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

1/4 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes

5 ounces baby spinach, roughly chopped

1/4 cup capers

1/4 cup chopped green olives

12 ounces uncooked chicken breast, cut into fine strips,

1 to 2 inches long

1 lemon, zested and juiced

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

11/2 teaspoons salt

freshly ground black pepper

2 ounces Parmesan, roughly grated or shaved with

a peeler into long thin strips

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and grease a 9x13-inch baking dish

with baking spray or olive oil. Spread the orzo in the greased dish.

2. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and toast the pine nuts,

stirring frequently and watching closely to make sure they toast

to a dark tan color but do not burn, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the

pine nuts into the orzo.

3. Return the skillet to medium heat. Heat the olive oil and cook

the garlic and sun-dried tomatoes until soft and fragrant, about

3 minutes. Stir in the chopped baby spinach and cook in handfuls

until lightly wilted. Remove the pan from the heat and stir

its contents into the orzo. Stir the capers, chopped green olives

and pieces of chicken breast into the orzo as well. Sprinkle the

lemon zest on top.

4. Heat the chicken broth to boiling, then whisk in the lemon juice,

Dijon mustard, salt and a generous quantity of black pepper. Pour

gently over the orzo. Cover the pan tightly with foil. Bake for 25 to

30 minutes, or until pasta is just al dente (it will still look saucy).

5. Remove the foil and turn the oven to broil. Sprinkle the Parmesan

on top and broil for 2 to 3 minutes or until cheese is melted and

the edges are crispy. Serve immediately.

NUTRITION

BAKED PENNE ALLA VODKA:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 820 (380

from fat); FAT 43g (sat. 25g); CHOL

135mg; SODIUM 1701mg; CARB 78g;

FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 28g

BAKED RISOTTO

W. LEMON SHRIMP:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 629 (162

from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 10g); CHOL

173mg; SODIUM 1757mg; CARB 78g;

FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 35g

HAM & GRUYÈRE

POTATO GRATIN:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 652 (290

from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 18g); CHOL

114mg; SODIUM 1955mg; CARB 57g;

FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 33g

SAUCY WHITE BEAN

& SAUSAGE BAKE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 599 (229

from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 8g); CHOL

50mg; SODIUM 2299mg; CARB 62g;

FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 33g

CHICKEN ORZO FLORENTINE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 572 (147

from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 4g); CHOL

42mg; SODIUM 1164mg; CARB 72g;

FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 34g

fall 2019 real food 27


Gorgeous

Gourds

Five deliciously different ways to enjoy winter squash

BY ROBIN ASBELL

28 real food fall 2019


The sweet, brilliantly colored flesh

of squash is one of the nutrition

superstars in your kitchen. The

color comes from carotenoids,

which are antioxidant compounds

that protect your health on a

cellular level. Vitamins A, B and

C hide in that delicious, creamy

squash. It’s even high in fiber and

pectin, which stabilize blood sugar

and make you feel full longer.

Left to right: spaghetti, delicata,

acorn, butternut and kabocha

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

fall 2019 real food 29


CREAMY SQUASH SOUP

WITH SHERRY, THYME AND

SPICED PUMPKIN SEEDS

30 real food fall 2019


Why does pumpkin get all the

attention? It takes center stage

in our favorite Thanksgiving pie, and

pumpkin spice flavors are everywhere in

muffins, coffee and more. It’s enough to

give all the squash siblings a self-esteem

problem. It’s time to give the rest of the

squash family some face time. If you are

a fan of pumpkin, you are already a fan

of squash, which is in the same gourd

family. Fall is when all those gorgeous

gourds are in season and stores will have

the widest selections.

The squash we see this time of year

is known as winter squash, which gets

its name from being a good “keeper.”

It’s harvested in fall, and if left in a

cool room, will keep all winter. After it’s

picked, the squash cures for a couple of

weeks to let the skin harden into natural

“packaging,” sealing in the freshness

better than a plastic wrapper ever could.

Most winter squash have inedible skins,

but a few, like the sweet dumpling,

carnival, delicata and kabocha have

thinner skin that can be eaten.

There are two ways to approach your

squash. One is to simply cut it in half,

scoop out the seeds and bake it on an

oiled sheet pan. Then, you can scoop

out the flesh to make purees for use

in recipes from soup to cheesecake.

The second way is to peel and cube the

squash. It’s a little more work, but you’ll

love those meltingly tender chunks of

squash in pastas, curries and stews.

Creamy Squash Soup with Sherry,

Thyme and Spiced Pumpkin Seeds

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The sweet, nutty flavors in squash are accentuated by the addition of

dry sherry, which lends a savory depth to the creamy soup. The crunchy

pumpkin seed topping adds a spicy flavor boost and texture to the

smooth soup.

2 cups squash puree from 2 pounds butternut squash

2 tablespoons butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

2 tablespoons flour

11/2 cups whole milk

6 tablespoons dry sherry

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon salt

For the Pumpkin Seed Garnish

1 teaspoon canola oil

1 cup shelled pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut squash in half, scoop out the seeds

and place, cut side down, on an oiled sheet pan. Bake for 40 minutes

to 1 hour, until the squash is tender when pierced with a paring knife.

Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and use a spatula to turn the hot

halves over, which will help them cool faster.

2. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and place in a food

processor bowl. Puree until smooth, then measure 2 cups for this recipe.

If there is a little extra, refrigerate and save for another use.

3. In a large pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat, then add the

onion and thyme. Stir until the onion starts to sizzle, then reduce the

heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle

the flour over the onion mixture and stir to mix well, then cook for 3 to

4 minutes, stirring, to cook the flour. Take the pot off the heat and whisk

in about 1/2 cup of the milk. When it is incorporated, whisk in the rest of

the milk and then the sherry. Return to medium heat and whisk occasionally

until the mixture thickens slightly and starts to bubble around

the edges. Whisk in the squash puree, cayenne and salt and stir until

heated through. Serve with pumpkin seed garnish.

4. For the pumpkin seed garnish: Heat the oil for 1 minute in a medium

non-stick skillet. Add the pumpkin seeds and toss in the pan over

high heat until the seeds are popping and browning, about 3 minutes.

Remove from heat, add the brown sugar and toss constantly until seeds

are coated with melted sugar (careful—it can burn easily). Quickly mix

in the spices and salt, then spread on a plate to cool. Cool completely

and store in an airtight container until ready to use. It can be made up

to 1 week ahead.

fall 2019 real food 31


SPAGHETTI SQUASH WITH SHRIMP,

LEMON AND SPINACH

32 real food fall 2019


SPAGHETTI SQUASH AFRICA STUDIO - ADOBE STOCK

Spaghetti Squash with Shrimp,

Lemon and Spinach

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

For those days when you want more veggies than carbs, spaghetti squash

is your answer. Here, the tender strands get tossed with garlicky, lemony

butter for a sensation that feels like scampi, but better. Spinach and

tomatoes add color and even more tasty veggies to the meal.

3 pounds spaghetti squash, about 4 cups, cooked

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups baby spinach, chopped

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

2. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place

the squash, cut side down, on the pan. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes. To

check for doneness, take the pan out of the oven, turn a squash half

over and then insert a paring knife into the flesh along one side and try

to separate the strands. If the squash does not separate easily, place

it cut side down again and bake 10 minutes longer.

3. When the squash can be broken into strands easily, remove from

oven, turn the halves cut side up, and cool on a rack. When cool, scrape

out the strands and measure 4 cups for this dish.

4. Prep the shrimp and pat dry. In a large skillet, melt the butter over

medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and stir, cooking until the shrimp

are pink. Add the garlic, lemon zest and red pepper flakes and stir for

1 minute. Stir in the spaghetti squash and salt and toss until the squash

is heated through. Add the spinach and tomatoes and stir into the

mixture, cooking until the spinach wilts. Sprinkle with Parmesan and

toss to coat. Serve hot.

SCRAPING SPAGHETTI

SQUASH STRANDS

SQUASH VARIETIES

Acorn: Deeply lobed and pointed at the

blossom end, these small squashes are often

halved and baked, then topped with butter

and brown sugar. Their flesh is pale orange or

yellow, and smooth textured for easy eating.

Buttercup: Squat, blocky and streaked with

greens and greys, the buttercup hides a

rounded “cup” on the blossom end. Sweet,

nutty flesh is smooth and meaty, and drier

than some squashes.

Butternut: The tan-colored squash with

smooth, bright orange flesh is one of the

most popular varieties. Moist, sweet and mild,

it’s easy to peel and good in most recipes.

Delicata: Small and oblong, these are

streaked with white, yellow, orange and green

on their thin, tender skin. Their flesh is sweet

and a little denser and drier than acorns

and butternuts.

Hubbard: The Hubbard can be a 40-pound

blue-skinned behemoth, although new

varieties are smaller. Rich, meaty flesh and

deep orange color make it a popular one.

They are often cut in chunks and wrapped

so you can get a smaller portion.

Kabocha: Sometimes called a Japanese

pumpkin, this squat, round squash is streaked

with greens and greys. A favorite for Asian

dishes, it has dense, meaty flesh that holds

its shape in a curry or stew.

Red Kuri: Very similar to kabocha, the

squash’s dark orange skin and teardrop shape

give it curb appeal for days.

Spaghetti: This is the odd man out, with pale

yellow skin and flesh that falls apart into

spaghetti-like strands. The key to working with

this squash is to not overbake it, which makes

the strands soggy. Halve, seed and bake until

a paring knife inserted into the flesh can easily

twist and break the strands apart. Waiting

until the skin is easily pierced is too long.

Sweet Dumpling, Carnival: These adorable

little squashes are 4 to 6 inches across, with

white or pale yellow skins, splotched with

green. Mild and sweet, their edible skin lends

them to slicing and roasting, sautéing or

stewing, or stuffing for a pretty presentation.

fall 2019 real food 33


Thai Red Curry Squash

and Chicken Stew

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sweet, meaty kabocha squash and chicken thighs go well

together in this creamy, spicy Thai dish. A simple simmer

sauce allows you to cook everything at once, streamlining

the cooking process and saving time. Serve with black rice

for a stunning, whole-grain presentation, or substitute

brown or sushi rice.

1 cup black rice

1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk

1 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup fish sauce

1 stalk lemongrass, split lengthwise

3 small shallots, minced

1 large lime, pared

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon ginger root, slivered

4 teaspoons red curry paste

3 cups peeled and cubed kabocha squash,

uncooked

1 pound chicken thighs, cut in bite sized pieces

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/2 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped

1. Cook the rice: Put 11/2 cups water in a medium pot and

place over high heat, and when boiling, add the rice.

Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly, and cook for about

25 minutes, or until the rice is tender. If necessary, drain

the rice in a fine mesh strainer. Put back in the pan, cover,

and keep warm.

2. In a large sauté pan, pour the coconut milk, chicken

stock and fish sauce and place over medium heat. Add the

lemongrass, shallots, lime zest, garlic, ginger and red curry

paste and mix well. Bring to a boil. Add the squash and

chicken and reduce heat to a simmer and cover the pan,

adjusting the heat so it’s not boiling. Cook until the squash

is tender when pierced with a paring knife and a piece

of chicken cut in half has no pink left, about 10 minutes.

Add lime juice and simmer just until thick. Serve the curry

over cooked black rice, topped with cilantro.

Sausage and Farro

Stuffed Acorn Squash

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Smaller squashes stuffed with delectable goodies are perfect for

making into single-serving meals. This beauty will tempt your

diners with chewy sausage and whole grain farro laced with herbs

and Parmesan cheese.

2 small acorn squash, halved (or large sweet dumplings)

1/2 cup pearled farro

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

8 ounces Italian sausage, mild or hot

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup dried apricots, finely chopped

1 large egg

1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment

paper. Set out a large casserole or pan for the squash halves.

2. Halve the squashes from the stem end to the tip and use a

spoon to scoop out the seeds and strings. Place cut side down

on the sheet pan and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until the squash

is tender when pierced with a paring knife. Cool on pan on a rack.

3. In a small pot, place 2 cups water and put it over high heat to

bring to a boil. Add the farro and return to a boil, then reduce the

heat to low. Cook, covered, for about 20 minutes, until the farro

is tender. Drain in a fine mesh strainer and let cool.

4. In a large sauté pan, drizzle the olive oil and place over mediumhigh

heat. Add the onion and stir until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the

heat to medium-low and stir occasionally for at least 5 minutes.

When the onion is softened, crumble the sausage into the pan.

Raise the heat to medium-high and stir, crumbling the sausage

with your spatula. Add the thyme, oregano and salt and stir until

the sausage is no longer pink and is cooked through. Scrape into

a large bowl and let cool.

5. Scoop out the squash flesh, leaving about a ¼-inch layer inside

the skins so they won’t collapse. Place the squash in a medium

bowl and mash with a fork, then transfer to the bowl with the sausage.

Add the cooked farro, apricots, egg and half of the Parmesan

cheese. Mix well.

6. Stuff the squash halves with the sausage mixture, rounding

the top of the filling. Place them in the casserole or on a baking

sheet, and top each with the remaining Parmesan. Bake for

30 minutes. The tops will be golden brown and the filling will be

firm when pressed with a fingertip. Serve hot. When completely

cooled, place any leftovers in a storage tub, cover tightly, and

refrigerate for up to 4 days.

34 real food fall 2019


SAUSAGE AND FARRO

STUFFED ACORN SQUASH

fall 2019 real food 35


KABOCHA CHEESECAKE

WITH MAPLE WALNUT SAUCE

36 real food fall 2019


Kabocha Cheesecake

with Maple Walnut Sauce

MAKES 16 SERVINGS

Forget about pumpkin pie—this cheesecake is going to win your heart with its creamy, cinnamonkissed

appeal. You’ll need to roast a small kabocha squash for this; a 1½ pound squash should

yield 1½ cups mashed squash. This recipe will feed a crowd, depending on how hungry they are.

If you have a smaller group, you can also freeze a few slices for another day. You’ll be glad you did!

For the Crust

2 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

For the Maple Walnut Topping

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons cream

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

For the Cheesecake Filling

1 (11/2 pound) kabocha squash (for

11/2 cups mashed)

3 (8-ounce) packages neufchatel or

cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup sour cream

1 cup granulated sugar

3/4 cup light brown sugar

5 large eggs

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. To bake the squash for the cheesecake filling, cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and

place the squash, cut side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 30 minutes

at 400°F, then cool. Scoop the flesh into a measuring cup, mashing with a fork as you go, to

make 11/2 cups, reserving any extra for another use.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10-inch springform pan and wrap a sheet of foil around

the bottom of the pan in case it leaks. Get a deep roasting pan that the springform fits in. Boil

a pot of water.

3. Make the crust: In a large bowl, stir the graham cracker crumbs and brown sugar. Melt the butter

and drizzle over the crumb mixture, stirring until evenly mixed. Press the mixture in the buttered

pan. Bake for 10 minutes to lightly toast the crust. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.

4. Make the cheesecake filling: Place the neufchatel or cream cheese in the food processor bowl

and process to blend well. Scrape down and process, as many times as it takes to get it smooth,

with no lumps. Add the sour cream and sugars and process again, scraping down until well mixed

and smooth. Add the mashed squash, eggs, flour, cinnamon, salt and vanilla. Process until smooth

and well mixed, scraping down as needed. Pour the batter into the prepared crust and place in the

roasting pan. Carefully pour the boiling water in the roasting pan to come 11/2 inches up the sides

of the springform pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 1 hour and 30 to 40 minutes.

The cake will be puffed around the edges and will not jiggle in the center when lightly shaken.

5. Remove the roasting pan from oven and place it on a cooling rack with the cake still in it, for

about 10 minutes, then take the cake out and discard the water. Cool the cheesecake on the rack

until room temperature, then chill for at least two hours before cutting.

6. While the cake is cooling, make the topping: In a small saucepan, combine the maple syrup,

brown sugar, butter and cream. Stir over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to

low and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the walnuts. Let cool.

PEELING AND

CUBING SQUASH

• Squash that is smooth

and not deeply lobed, like

a butternut or kabocha, will

be easier to peel.

• If the squash has a big

stem, knock it off with a

few whacks with a hammer

or small pot.

• For a round squash, place

it stem side up on the cutting

board and use a sharp chef’s

knife to slice straight down

to cut it in half. You may have

to rock it a little and carefully

place the heel of your hand

on the back of the knife blade

to lean into it. Once halved,

scoop out the seeds. Cut

the squash in 1- to 2-inch

wedges and place each on its

side on the cutting board so

you can use your chef’s knife

to trim the skin off, cutting

straight down and taking it

off in sections. You can also

use a paring knife to pare

the skin. A peeler may not

be up to the task with thicker

skinned squash.

• For butternut and other

squashes with a neck, place

them on a cutting board and

cut the neck section off just

above where the bulb swells.

That gives you a big solid

piece, which you can peel

with a peeler or paring knife

and cut in cubes or slices.

Scoop the seeds from the

bulbous part and cut it in

half, then peel with a peeler

or paring knife. Place cut

side down and cut in wedges,

then cut those in cubes.

NUTRITION

CREAMY SQUASH SOUP:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 300 (115

from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 6g); CHOL

24mg; SODIUM 982mg; CARB 39g;

FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 8g

SPAGHETTI SQUASH W. SHRIMP,

LEMON & SPINACH:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 283 (140

from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 10g); CHOL

170mg; SODIUM 610mg; CARB 14g;

FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 24g

THAI RED CURRY SQUASH

& CHICKEN STEW:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 559 (221

from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 18g); CHOL

109mg; SODIUM 1745mg; CARB

56g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 33g

SAUSAGE & FARRO

STUFFED ACORN SQUASH:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 446 (182

from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 7g); CHOL

80mg; SODIUM 821mg; CARB 50g;

FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 20g

KABOCHA CHEESECAKE

W. MAPLE WALNUT SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 392 (191

from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 10g); CHOL

110mg; SODIUM 300mg; CARB 43g;

FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 8g

fall 2019 real food 37


Weeknight Fix

Skip takeout and cook healthy meals at home with these five easy ideas

BY ROY FINAMORE

The leftovers from the weekend are gone, and you can’t face another rotisserie chicken. Here are options—

some elegant, some homey, some light, some very simple—for meals that you can turn out quickly any

night of the week. But be good to yourself first. Put out a bowl of olives or nuts so you can nibble while you cook.

CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

38 real food fall 2019


A VERY GREEN FRITTATA

(RECIPE PAGE 43)

LEFT: CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA

(RECIPE PAGE 40)

fall 2019 real food 39


Chicken Saltimbocca

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is a surprisingly elegant dish for a weeknight. The juicy

chicken thighs combined with sage and prosciutto and served with

a quick Marsala sauce really do “jump in the mouth,” which is what

saltimbocca means. Serve with rice or spaghetti with butter and a

green such as spinach or Swiss chard.

8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 1¾ pounds)

coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,

to taste

8 to 16 sage leaves

8 thin slices prosciutto

½ cup all-purpose flour

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¾ cup dry Marsala

½ cup chicken stock

3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits

1. Trim any visible fat from the chicken thighs and place them skin

side down on a piece of plastic wrap. Cover with another piece

of plastic and pound to a thickness of ¼ inch.

2. Season the thighs with salt and pepper and top each with a

sage leaf (use 2 if they’re small). Cover with a slice of prosciutto—

wrap any overhang around the thigh—and press to adhere.

3. Dredge the thighs with flour and pat off the excess.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh

heat. When it shimmers, add half the thighs, prosciutto side

down. Sauté until the prosciutto is crisp, about 2½ minutes. Turn

and sauté until the other side is lightly golden and the thighs feel

firm when you prod them with your finger, about 1½ minutes.

Transfer to a platter and tent with foil to keep them warm. Repeat

with the remaining oil and thighs.

5. Pour any oil out of the skillet and pour in the Marsala. Boil

for 1 minute to cook off the alcohol. Add the stock and boil until

reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes. It might look like the sauce

has split. Don’t worry; it will come right in the end. Turn off the

heat, add the butter, and tilt and swirl the pan until you have an

emulsified sauce.

6. Divide the thighs among 4 plates. Serve sauce on the side.

Cook’s Notes:

• To make this dish with chicken breasts, you’ll need 4 (6-ounce)

boneless, skinless breasts. Pound the breasts between two pieces

of plastic wrap. Season with salt and pepper and top with

2 sage leaves (4 if they’re small) and 2 slices of prosciutto—wrap

any overhang around the breast. Press to adhere. Continue with

the recipe above, starting with step 3.

• While cooking spaghetti (8 ounces as a side for 4) melt 3 tablespoons

butter in a skillet over medium high heat. Add 1 cup of

the pasta water. When spaghetti is about 1 minute shy of al

dente, use tongs to transfer it to the skillet. Cook, tossing with

tongs and adding a bit more pasta water if needed until the pasta

is al dente and the butter sauce is creamy.

Porcupine Meatballs

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

These are fun: Meatballs with rice mixed in so the kernels stick

out like porcupine spines. Cooked in a tomato sauce, it’s very

retro. Braised in beef stock and showered with herbs, it’s fresh

and bright. And fast. Serve in a bowl over noodles or with multigrain

bread to sop up the sauce. Add some spinach or peas and

your tongue will smile.

½ cup long-grain white rice

1½ cups boiling water

1 medium red onion, minced

1 large garlic clove, grated on a rasp or minced

½ cup chopped flatleaf parsley

1 cup chopped cilantro, divided

1 large egg

coarse kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper, to taste

1½ pounds ground beef

3 cups beef stock

¼ cup cornstarch

1/3 cup water

¼ cup chopped dill

1. Put the rice in a small saucepan. Pour in boiling water and

bring back to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to

medium and simmer for 3 minutes. Drain and transfer to a

large bowl.

2. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, ½ cup of the cilantro, the

egg, and salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Crumble in the

beef and mix with your hands until everything holds together.

3. Make 20 golf ball-sized meatballs (about ¼ cup each) and

put them in a 12-inch skillet. Pour in the stock and bring to a

boil over high heat. Cover, turn the heat down to low, and cook

until the rice is tender and the meat cooked, about 20 minutes.

4. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meatballs to a large

serving bowl.

5. Turn the heat to medium-high and bring the stock back

to a boil.

6. Mix the cornstarch and water together to make a smooth

slurry. Stirring, add the slurry to the stock and bring it back

to a boil.

7. Pour sauce over the meatballs, garnish with the remaining

½ cup cilantro and the dill, and serve.

Cook’s Note: For quick and easy peas, put 2 cups frozen petite

peas (they’re the sweetest) into a colander and run under hot

water 1 to 2 minutes to thaw. Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted

butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add 1 to 2 chopped

scallions and cook 1 minute. Add peas and cook until hot, 1 to

2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Bingo!

40 real food fall 2019


PORCUPINE MEATBALLS

fall 2019 real food 41


42 real food fall 2019

RICE NOODLES AND SHRIMP WITH

SCALLION, GINGER AND PEANUT SAUCE


Rice Noodles and Shrimp with

Scallion, Ginger and Peanut Sauce

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sharp with the flavors of scallion and ginger, and with a little crunch from

the peanuts, this is an ideal sauce for noodles. You don’t have to stick to

rice noodles. Use udon or fresh Chinese noodles or ramen if you can find

them. Serve with sautéed baby bok choy or a cucumber salad.

For the Shrimp

1 pound extra-large (16-20 per pound) shrimp, peeled

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 garlic cloves, grated on a rasp

coarse kosher salt, to taste

1 teaspoon shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven spice)

or ½ teaspoon cayenne

For the Sauce

1 (5- to 6-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into chunks

1/3 cup roasted salted peanuts

1 bunch scallions, cut into 1- to 2-inch lengths

1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

¾ cup peanut oil

1 pound wide rice noodles (bahn pho)

1. Halve the shrimp, starting at the back, so you’re left with 2 thin crescents.

If the shrimp have a vein, remove it. Put the shrimp into a bowl.

2. Add the oil, garlic, salt to taste, and the shichimi or cayenne. Mix

well and leave on the counter while you make the sauce and noodles.

3. Make the sauce: Put the ginger into a food processor and pulse until

finely chopped. Transfer to a large heatproof bowl.

4. Put the peanuts into the processor and pulse until finely chopped.

Add to the bowl.

5. Put the scallions into the processor and pulse until finely chopped.

Be careful not to make a wet paste. Add to the bowl. Add the salt and

stir it all up.

6. Pour the oil into a small saucepan and heat it over medium-high heat

to 325ºF. Pour it into the bowl. It will sizzle and bubble up so be careful.

Give the sauce a stir.

7. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles, stir and bring

back to a boil. Turn the heat off and let the noodles sit, stirring once or

twice, until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

8. Drain the noodles and put them in a big bowl. Add the sauce and

toss well.

9. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot—a few

drops of water will skitter over the surface—add the shrimp in a single

layer. Cook until the shrimp tighten and the bottoms turn pink. Turn

and cook until the other side turns pink. The whole process should take

2 to 3 minutes.

10. Divide the noodles among 4 plates, top with shrimp and serve.

Cook’s Note: There’s no end to what you can add to noodles with this

sauce. Think slivers of leftover steak or roast beef. Shredded poached or

rotisserie chicken. Sprouts. Seeded cucumber sliced into matchsticks.

Very finely sliced red or yellow or orange bell pepper. Look in your fridge

and experiment.

A Very Green Frittata

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

You’ll find dishes like this in northern Italy, a kind of

omelet with lots of greens and herbs. It’s a great light dinner.

Serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. Play with

the greens and herbs. Purslane is a tasty option, but so

are beet greens, mustard greens or Swiss chard as long as

they’re all tiny and tender. Replace the dill with tarragon if

you’d like. Or chervil. Or bronze fennel. Just keep the total

amount of greens and herbs to 3¼ cups. I serve this with

a simple green salad and a baguette with butter. If you

have a garlic bread recipe in your back pocket, go for it.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup chopped scallions (1 bunch) or chives

1 cup chopped flatleaf parsley

1 cup chopped arugula (or ½ cup chopped

arugula and ½ cup chopped pea shoots)

¼ cup chopped dill

9 large eggs

coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black

pepper, to taste

½ cup ricotta

1. Set an oven rack in the top position and preheat

the broiler.

2. Spread the butter all over a 12-inch oven-safe nonstick

skillet.

3. Toss the scallions, parsley, arugula and dill together.

Spread out in the skillet.

4. Crack the eggs into a medium or large bowl, season

with salt and pepper and whisk well. You don’t want

any visible white.

5. Pour the eggs over the greens and herbs. Press down

with a silicone spatula to ensure all the greens are

covered with egg.

6. Turn the heat on to medium. Cook for 7 minutes. The

eggs will just be starting to set on the bottom. Push in

gently with a spatula at the edge and you’ll see. Dot the

frittata with ricotta. I put 1-tablespoon blobs around the

edge. Cover and cook for 7 minutes. The top will be barely

set and the center will be runny.

7. Put the skillet under the broiler and broil until the

frittata is lightly browned, about 1 minute.

8. Slide the frittata onto a board. Cut it in quarters

and serve.

Cook’s Note: You don’t need a recipe for a simple green

salad. Put 4 big handfuls of greens into a bowl and season

with salt and pepper. Maybe use some crumbled

dried oregano. If you want onion or shallot, add it, but

keep the slices thin. Add a little vinegar and toss. Drizzle

in olive oil and toss again. Just keep in mind that you’ll

want 2 to 3 parts oil to vinegar. Taste and adjust the oil

and vinegar if desired.

fall 2019 real food 43


44 real food fall 2019

TONKATSU PORK

CUTLETS


Tonkatsu Pork Cutlets

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

What we have here are tender and very crunchy pork cutlets served with a tangy Japanese-style barbecue sauce. They’re traditionally made

with pork loin, but I think that can be a bit tough, so I go for pork tenderloin. The crunchiness comes from the panko breading. If you

want to skip the dressing for the cabbage, salt it before you put it on the plate and add some lemon wedges. Rice is the starch of choice.

For the Cabbage

4 cups very thinly sliced Savoy or Napa cabbage

¼ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon ketchup

juice of half a lemon

For the Tonkatsu Sauce

3 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

1½ teaspoons sugar (Turbinado or granulated)

1 teaspoon oyster sauce

For the Pork

1 (1- to 1¼-pound) pork tenderloin

coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black

pepper, to taste

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, beaten

1½ cups panko breadcrumbs

sunflower, safflower seed or canola oil, for frying

1. For the cabbage: Refrigerate the shredded cabbage. You

want it cold.

2. Whisk the mayonnaise, ketchup and lemon juice together in a

small bowl and refrigerate. No need to cover.

3. Make the Tonkatsu Sauce: Stir all the ingredients together in a

small bowl, making sure the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate until

you’re ready to serve.

4. Prepare the pork: Remove the silverskin and any fat from the

tenderloin. Cut it on a sharp diagonal into 8 pieces.

5. Put the pork between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound to

a thickness of 1/3 inch. Remove the top piece of plastic and season

the pork with salt and pepper. Pat the seasoning into the meat.

6. Set up a dredging station: a plate with the flour, a shallow

bowl with the eggs, and a plate with the panko. Put a rack onto

a rimmed baking sheet.

7. Dredge the pork in the flour, patting off any excess. Dip it in the

eggs, coating both sides. Lift up, let the excess drip off, and coat

with panko, pressing down to make sure the panko adheres. Set

the cutlets on the rack.

8. Heat ¼ inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the

oil is ready for frying (a ring of bubbles will immediately appear

around the handle of a wooden spoon pressed into the center

of the skillet), add as many cutlets as will fit without crowding.

Fry, moving the cutlets around for even browning, until golden,

90 seconds. Turn and fry—again moving the cutlets around in

the skillet—until golden and crisp, another 90 seconds. Return

them to the rack.

9. To serve, divide the cabbage among 4 plates and top with a

dollop of the mayonnaise sauce. Cut the cutlets into 1-inch slices

and divide among the plates. Drizzle the pork with the Tonkatsu

Sauce (use it all).

Cook’s Note: Another option for serving is to get two slices

of some good white bread, like a Pullman loaf, and make a

sandwich. Spread one piece with the mayonnaise sauce (or just

plain mayo) and the other with Tonkatsu Sauce. Add two pork

cutlets and a pile of shredded Savoy cabbage. Season with salt.

Trim the crusts if you want to be fancy. Serve with kimchi or a

pickle of some kind.

NUTRITION

RICE NOODLES & SHRIMP

W. PEANUT SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 997 (477

from fat); FAT 54g (sat. 9g); CHOL

130mg; SODIUM 678mg; CARB 101g;

FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 27g

A VERY GREEN FRITTATA:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 294 (195

from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 10g); CHOL

451mg; SODIUM 180mg; CARB 5g;

FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 19g

CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 530 (291

from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 11g); CHOL

218mg; SODIUM 447mg; CARB 9g;

FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 45g

PORCUPINE MEATBALLS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 445 (170

from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 7g); CHOL

150mg; SODIUM 171mg; CARB 30g;

FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 36g

TONKATSU PORK CUTLETS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 487 (238

from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 5g); CHOL

137mg; SODIUM 585mg; CARB 30g;

FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 32g

fall 2019 real food 45


Reinventing

Dinner

Enjoy these approachable dinners

now and later by turning the leftovers

into totally different dishes

Having leftovers for lunch or dinner doesn’t mean you need to eat the same meal all over again. Get excited

about using leftovers by reinventing the dishes in a fresh way. First, you need a meal that you can enjoy

now. After that, you are already halfway to another meal because of the many components at the ready.

The ever-popular chicken dinner or a meatloaf meal with modern twists are great places to start.

Whether you celebrate Rosh Hashanah or are looking for a comforting weekend meal, the following menus

of approachable dishes can then serve double duty in the suggested recipes for new dishes using the leftovers.

In these and other recipes from “Now & Again: Go-To Recipes, Inspired Menus + Endless Ideas for Reinventing

Leftovers,” author Julia Turshen’s goal is to dismantle the idea that making a full meal has to be both difficult and

expensive and instead show how leftovers can be an invitation to fun, inventive cooking. Where there are leftovers,

there are endless opportunities for reinvention. —Mary Subialka


Celebration Chicken with

Sweet Potatoes and Dates

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Rosh Hashanah celebrates the Jewish New Year. There are a lot of symbolic

foods associated with the holiday, most of them sweet to help usher in a

sweet new year. This chicken is a bit of a Rosh Hashanah riff on the famous

Chicken Marbella from “The Silver Palate Cookbook” by Sheila Lukins and

Julee Rosso. Just like that extremely popular recipe, this chicken doesn’t

require much work and yields a crowd-pleasing, highly flavorful result. It calls

for just one roasting pan, in which you both mix everything and cook. There

are no extra bowls or pans, no browning chicken in batches and definitely

no fuss. You also get a two-for-one moment: The sweet potatoes and dates

(sweet for Rosh Hashanah!) give you an instant side dish.

ROSH HASHANAH DINNER

Celebration Chicken with

Sweet Potatoes and Dates

Baked Saffron Rice

ROSH

HASHANAH

DINNER

Beet Salad with Poppy Seed

and Chive Dressing

Make-ahead Note: Up to three days

ahead, you can mix everything for

the chicken and store in a resealable

plastic bag in the refrigerator. Make

the rice, cook and slice the beets, and

make the dressing for the beets, then

store all of these things in separate

containers in the refrigerator.

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup water

8 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 (3- to 4-pound) chickens, each cut into 10 pieces (2 wings,

2 legs, 2 thighs and 2 breasts cut in half across the bone),

backbone discarded (or saved for another use, like stock),

at room temperature

3 large sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds total), unpeeled,

scrubbed and cut into bite-size pieces

12 large dried dates (preferably medjool), halved and pitted

A small handful of chopped fresh soft herbs (cilantro, parsley,

dill and/or chives all work well)

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.

2. In a large roasting pan, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, water,

garlic, salt and pepper (you want a pan that’s big enough to hold all of the

chicken pieces in a single layer; a disposable aluminum pan is good for

this if your roasting pan isn’t large enough). Add the chicken pieces, sweet

potatoes and dates. Use your hands to mix everything together and get

the marinade on all of the chicken, sweet potatoes and dates. Warning:

The following is a bit messy, but bear with me. Move everything around

so the sweet potatoes and dates are in a single layer on the bottom of the

pan and the chicken pieces, skin-side up, are in a single, even layer on top.

3. Roast until the sweet potatoes are tender (test with a fork or a paring

knife) and the chicken pieces are firm to the touch and their exposed skin

is nicely browned, about 1 hour. Let the chicken rest at room temperature

for at least 15 minutes before serving.

4. To serve, transfer the chicken, sweet potatoes and dates to a large serving

platter and pour all of the cooking juices over the top (or serve directly

from the roasting pan, giving everything a little mix first). Sprinkle with the

herbs and serve warm.

fall 2019 real food 47


Beet Salad with Poppy Seed

and Chive Dressing

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

I always like making unfussy vegetable dishes as part of

more elaborate holiday menus. They add color and variety

to your spread, and you can also rest assured your

guests can fill their plates with something healthy. This

beet salad is one of my go-to vegetable dishes because

it’s a little unexpected yet totally easy to make, and you

can whip up the dressing and cook and slice the beets

ahead of time and easily assemble the whole thing at

the last minute. Also, it’s best served barely warm or at

room temperature, which makes it especially perfect

for a big dinner.

kosher salt

2½ pounds red beets, scrubbed

2 tablespoons plain yogurt or mayonnaise

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ tablespoons poppy seeds

3 tablespoons minced fresh chives (or a thinly

sliced scallion minus the tough ends)

CELEBRATION CHICKEN WITH

SWEET POTATOES AND DATES

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil and

add the beets (the water should cover the beets; if

it doesn’t, add more). Cook the beets, turning them

every so often, until they’re tender (test with a paring

knife), about 45 minutes (it may be a bit less or a bit

longer depending on the size and age of the beets, so

start testing at 30 minutes).

2. Drain the beets, transfer to a paper towel-lined cutting

board, and use the paper towels to rub off the

skins. Trim off and discard the root ends.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the

yogurt, olive oil, mustard, vinegar, pepper, poppy seeds,

2 tablespoons of the chives and ½ teaspoon salt.

4. Slice the warm beets into thin bite-size wedges

or thin rounds (whatever you prefer) and transfer

them to a large serving bowl or platter. Season them

lightly with salt and then drizzle the dressing evenly

over them. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon

chives. Serve immediately.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “NOW

& AGAIN: GO-TO RECIPES, INSPIRED

MENUS + ENDLESS IDEAS FOR

REINVENTING LEFTOVERS” BY JULIA

TURSHEN ©2018 REPRINTED WITH

PERMISSION OF CHRONICLE BOOKS.

PHOTOS BY DAVID LOFTUS.

48 real food fall 2019


Baked Saffron Rice

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Inspired by a Yotam Ottolenghi recipe, this rice is great

because it feeds a lot of people, it’s foolproof since you

cook it in the oven (which helps rice cook so much more

evenly than it does on the stovetop, leaving the cook

calm), and you can prepare it ahead and reheat it before

serving. The saffron makes it very aromatic and special

(perfect for a holiday). It’s an expensive ingredient, but

a little bit goes a very long way. Incidentally, the rice is

delicious with or without it, and you can also add different

spices when you cook the garlic and onion (whole

or ground cloves, cardamom pods, and cinnamon sticks

are all welcome).

½ cup olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

2½ cups long-grain white rice (preferably basmati)

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

4 cups plus 3 tablespoons boiling water

3 large pinches of saffron threads

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.

2. In a large, heavy, oven-safe pot over medium-low

heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and onion and

cook, stirring now and then, until the vegetables sizzle

and soften, about 8 minutes. Turn off the heat and add

the rice and salt and stir everything together.

3. Pour in 4 cups of the boiling water and stir well to

combine. Cover the pot tightly and place in the oven.

Bake until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked

through, about 25 minutes (the center of the rice might

be cooked less than the rice around it, but it will rest

in just a moment and all of the grains will turn out

tender … trust me).

4. While the rice is cooking, put the saffron into a small

bowl and add the remaining 3 tablespoons boiling water.

5. When the rice is ready, uncover it and spoon the

reserved saffron and its liquid evenly over the top.

Re-cover the pot and let the rice sit for at least 15 minutes

and up to 1 hour before serving.

6. Uncover the rice, fluff with a fork or a spoon, and stir

well to incorporate the saffron. Taste and season with

more salt if needed. Serve warm. If you want to cook

the rice more than an hour ahead of serving, rewarm

it in the pot in a 250°F oven, stirring now and then,

until heated through, about 15 minutes from room

temperature or 30 minutes if cold from the refrigerator.

ROSH HASHANAH DINNER, Reinvented

Coronation Chicken Salad

Shred whatever chicken you have left (discard the skin and

bones) and roughly chop the leftover sweet potatoes and

dates. Put all of that into a bowl, sprinkle with a generous

amount of curry powder, and add a large spoonful of mango

chutney (or apricot jam, or just leave it out if you’ve got

enough sweet dates) and stir to mix. Add just enough

mayonnaise (or plain Greek yogurt) to bind everything

together and season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in

some thinly sliced scallions and, if you’d like, some chopped

roasted almonds. Serve on toast or in lettuce cups.

Stuffed Peppers

This is for your leftover rice. Halve bell peppers lengthwise

and remove the seeds and ribs (you can leave the stems on

if you like, as they’re attractive). Arrange them, hollow-side

up, in a single layer in a roasting pan. Mix whatever leftover

rice you have with a generous amount of crumbled feta

cheese and some chopped fresh herbs (a lot of Italian

parsley is simple and nice). Fill the pepper halves with the

rice and dot the tops with butter and/or drizzle with olive

oil. Add about ½ cup water or chicken stock to the roasting

pan and place in a 350°F oven. Roast until the peppers are

soft and the top of the rice is a little bit browned, about

25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. These

are especially good topped with a dollop of plain yogurt.

If you don’t want the peppers to be vegetarian, you can

add some crumbled cooked sausage meat or ground meat

(beef, turkey and lamb all work well) to the rice mixture

before filling the peppers.

Beet Dip

As simple as can be, put leftover beet salad with its dressing

into a food processor and pulse until puréed. You can

make the dip as smooth or as rustic as you like. Season it to

taste with salt and pepper and add a splash of vinegar or a

squeeze of lemon juice if you need a little extra edge. Serve

with crackers, toasted bread or carrots, or on endive leaves

or cucumber slices ... anything!

Cheesy Rice Fritters

For every large handful of leftover rice, mix together with

a handful of grated Cheddar cheese, a beaten egg and

2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour. Cook spoonfuls in a

lightly oiled skillet until browned and crisp on both sides.

Sprinkle with salt and serve hot. These are great with drinks

or topped with eggs for breakfast (almost like hash browns).

fall 2019 real food 49


Confetti Meatloaf

SERVES 2 VERY HUNGRY PEOPLE AND 4 MORE SENSIBLY

If you loved the Turkey and Ricotta Meatballs in “Small Victories,” [my

other book] you’ll love this meatloaf (and vice versa!). This recipe borrows

the same technique of substituting ricotta cheese for bread crumbs

and eggs (which makes it much lower in carbohydrates and gluten free

to boot). To keep it full of flavor and moisture, I’ve added sautéed peppers

and onions, finely chopped herbs and sun-dried tomatoes, tons of

garlic, and a kick of salty Worcestershire. This recipe can also be easily

doubled, but keep in mind it will take a little longer to bake. Depending

on how you shape it, add at least 20 minutes. If you are not into turkey,

you can substitute ground chicken, pork or beef.

JUST MY TYPE

OF DINNER

JUST MY TYPE OF DINNER

Confetti Meatloaf

Creamy Garlic Mashed Cauliflower

Butter Lettuce with

Shallot Vinaigrette

Make-ahead Note: Up to three days ahead

you can make the shallot vinaigrette and store

in a covered container in the refrigerator.

Bring to room temperature before serving.

Up to one day ahead:

• Wash the lettuce and store in a plastic bag

or an airtight container in the refrigerator

wrapped in ever-so-damp paper towels.

• Make the cauliflower and store in a covered

container in the refrigerator.

• Mix the meatloaf mixture and store in a

covered container in the refrigerator.

2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large or 2 small bell peppers (any color), stemmed,

seeded and finely diced

1 small red onion, finely diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

6 olive oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and minced

2 large handfuls of fresh Italian parsley and/or basil leaves

(a little bit of stem is fine!), finely chopped

¾ cup fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese

1 pound ground turkey (preferably dark meat)

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and

coat the parchment with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil. Set the pan aside.

2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining

2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook, stirring

now and then, until softened and browned on the edges, about

8 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the garlic, and stir to combine. Let

the vegetables cool down for a few minutes.

3. Transfer the cooled vegetables to a large bowl and add the oregano,

salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes, parsley and ricotta.

Stir everything well to combine (this will guarantee that everything

gets mixed into the meat evenly). Add the turkey to the bowl and

mix everything together (your hands are the best tools for the job).

4. Transfer the mixture to the prepared sheet pan and shape into a

loaf measuring about 10 by 4 inches and about 1 inch high. If the mixture

sticks to your hands when you’re doing this, just wet them lightly.

Make sure to pack the meat tightly, which will help it hold together.

5. Bake the meatloaf until the top is nicely browned and an instantread

thermometer inserted in the center registers 165°F, 35 to

40 minutes. Let the meatloaf cool for at least 10 minutes before

slicing and serving.

NUTRITION

CELEBRATION CHICKEN:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

477 (216 from fat); FAT 24g

(sat. 6g); CHOL 116mg;

SODIUM 768mg; CARB 26g;

FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 38g

BEET SALAD W. DRESSING:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

74 (34 from fat); FAT 4g (sat.

1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM

271mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 2g;

PROTEIN 2g

BAKED SAFFRON RICE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

296 (108 from fat); FAT

12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg;

SODIUM 631mg; CARB 43g;

FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

CONFETTI MEATLOAF:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

422 (275 from fat); FAT

31g (sat. 9g); CHOL 111mg;

SODIUM 894mg; CARB 10g;

FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 28g

MASHED CAULIFLOWER:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

47 (16 from fat); FAT 2g (sat.

1g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM

38mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 2g;

PROTEIN 3g

BUTTER LETTUCE SALAD:

PER SERVING: CALORIES

134 (122 from fat); FAT

14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg;

SODIUM 300mg; CARB 2g;

FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

50 real food fall 2019


Creamy Garlic Mashed

Cauliflower

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I made it my personal mission to make sure we still had the

comfort of comfort food even if it no longer came under a

carbohydrate guise. Enter this creamy mashed cauliflower. You

can use a potato masher to crush the cauliflower, but you won’t

get the same smooth texture that a food processor creates. Think

of this mashed cauliflower as a blank canvas that takes well to

all sorts of flavors. If you make this ahead, reheat it in 1-minute

intervals in the microwave, stirring between the intervals to

make sure it heats up evenly (or warm in a heavy saucepan on

the stove top over low heat).

1½ pounds cauliflower (about 1 large head), tough

stems discarded, cut into large florets

4 large garlic cloves

kosher salt

¼ cup half-and-half

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Put the cauliflower and garlic cloves into a large pot, and

add water just to cover plus a large pinch of salt. Cover the

pot, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat

to a gentle simmer and continue to cook, covered, until the

cauliflower is extremely tender (test with a paring knife), about

10 minutes. Drain the cauliflower and garlic in a colander and

shake to make sure the contents are super dry.

2. Transfer the cauliflower and garlic to a food processor and

add the half-and-half and another generous pinch of salt.

Purée until smooth, scraping down the sides of the processor

bowl as needed.

3. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed, then

transfer to a serving dish. Serve hot and topped with a few

grinds of black pepper.

Butter Lettuce with Shallot

Vinaigrette

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is the salad I most often make for us. Put 1 minced shallot,

½ teaspoon kosher salt and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

into a large bowl. Rub ½ teaspoon dried oregano between

your fingers as you drop it into the bowl. Stir well to combine.

Let the mixture sit for a few minutes to allow the shallot to

soften slightly. Whisk 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard into the

vinegar mixture and then, while whisking, slowly drizzle in

¼ cup olive oil (the shallots make whisking a little clunky, but

just go with it). Season the dressing with more salt if you think

it needs it. Add 1 large or 2 small heads butter lettuce (also

known as Bibb or Boston lettuce) or other lettuce of choice,

leaves roughly torn or left whole, to the bowl (at this point the

salad can sit at room temperature for an hour or so). Use your

hands to coat the lettuce with the vinaigrette. Some chopped,

toasted hazelnuts are also really nice on top, if you choose.

Serve immediately.

JUST MY TYPE OF DINNER, Reinvented

Open-Faced Meatloaf Melts

For me, the best part about making meatloaf is getting

to make meatloaf sandwiches on crispy English

muffins the next day. To make them, split and toast

the muffins and spread the cut sides generously

with mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. Place a piece

of meatloaf on top of each one and drape with a

slice of cheese (I like Cheddar, but use whatever you

like). Run the sandwiches under the broiler or in your

toaster oven. Serve on a plate or a paper towel (let’s

just be honest) with a jar of pickles. Best lunch.

Creamy Cauliflower + Lettuce Soup

Combine whatever leftover mashed cauliflower

and dressed salad you have in a medium saucepan

(I know that seems weird, but just stick with me;

the lettuce will add body and flavor, and the dressing

will add just the right amount of perkiness).

Add enough vegetable or chicken stock to thin the

cauliflower to the consistency of a soup rather than

a mash. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat,

and simmer just until the lettuce is wilted and soft,

about 3 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender in

batches as necessary and return to the pot (or use

an immersion blender). If you’d like the soup extra

creamy, pass it through a fine-mesh sieve. Reheat

the soup, taste for seasoning, and serve immediately

with something crunchy on top, like croutons,

coarse bread crumbs that you’ve toasted in a

buttered skillet, or a handful of chopped nuts

(roasted almonds or hazelnuts). Instead of, or in

addition to, the crunchy finish, you can top each

serving with a swirl of really good extra-virgin olive

oil or heavy cream and a few minced fresh chives.

Lettuce + Spring Pea Risotto

This turns leftover, probably wilted salad into an

entirely new meal. For 4 servings, melt 3 tablespoons

butter in a large, heavy pot and add 1 cup

arborio rice (or any starchy, short-grain rice). Cook,

stirring, until the rice smells nutty, about 2 minutes.

Add about 1 cup warm chicken or vegetable

stock and cook, stirring now and then, until the

liquid is absorbed. Repeat until the rice is tender

and creamy, about 20 to 25 minutes all together

and you’ll use about 4 cups of stock. Add another

1 tablespoon butter, whatever salad you have left

(chop it first), and 2 handfuls of frozen peas. Stir

well to combine and cook until the peas are tender,

about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and

serve immediately. Top with grated Parmesan.

fall 2019 real food 51


Dynamo

on a Mission

Multitasking José Andrés embraces food and drink

and humanitarian efforts with unstoppable gusto

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

It’s 8 a.m. and José Andrés has already

caused a sensation, broadcasting a spurof-the-moment

invitation over Twitter to

come join him for breakfast. He’s at Mercado

Little Spain, a massive food hall he launched

just a couple months ago in New York City’s

Hudson Yards, doing some simultaneous

staff training, recipe testing, research and

publicity. The Twitterverse has lit up in

response, with people declaring their excitement

to join him or their disappointment at

being too far away to take advantage of

breakfasting with one of the most influential

chefs of our day.

This is pretty typical for Andrés. In part,

it’s because he has to multitask like a madman.

From his hometown and base in

Washington, D.C., he runs 34 restaurants

through Think Food Group, from his flagship

Jaleo to the cutting-edge experimental kitchens

of minibar, é and Somni, as well as a catering

business. In addition, he has Pepe, a food

truck that makes rounds in D.C., Maryland

and Virginia. Today he’s also preparing to

open another branch of Jaleo—his fifth—in

Disney Springs, Florida, and he’s finalizing

details on the sixth, scheduled to launch this

year in Dubai.

But that’s not all. In the last few years,

Andrés has redefined what it means to be a

celebrity chef, extending his brand far

beyond restaurants to include what might

be best described as humanitarian aid.

That means working to create ways to feed

people healthy food at a low price, as he does

now at Beefsteak, a fast-casual, vegetableforward

chain with four locations, including

one in a Cleveland hospital. It means teaching

classes on the importance of food in

society at George Washington University,

and on science and cooking at Harvard.

And it means reaching out to hungry people

everywhere through Central Kitchen, a

nonprofit he has organized to feed those in

need, whether on the streets of D.C. or in

the wake of major disasters, such as

Hurricane Maria in Puerto Rico and

cyclone-ravaged Mozambique.

And now there’s the matter of “Vegetables

Unleashed,” his fourth and newest book,

which he launched recently with a packed

talk at Mercado Little Spain. A book on vegetables

is an unexpected move from a chef

who uses Spain’s serrano ham like others

might use Parmesan cheese. He’s not of the

usual breed of vegetable-cookbook authors,

promoting it as part of a healthy lifestyle;

he’s a guy who lustily embraces food and

drink of all types, and will cap it all off with

a cigar when he can. So, after kicking myself

for having missed my chance to breakfast

with the great man, I catch him via phone

that afternoon, while he is on his way down

to D.C. for a book-launch event with Joe

Yonan, the food editor of The Washington

Post, to find out how he got to this point.

“You know it’s not like one day I go from

black to white,” he says, surprising me by his

quiet demeanor. “It’s been slowly coming.

But the truth is that, when I look around,

it’s the small gestures that show you that

SPANISH NATIVE ANDRÉS SERVES UP A WORLD OF CUISINES AT HIS RESTAURANTS

FROM MEXICAN AND GREEK TO TURKISH-LEBANESE AND CHINESE-PERUVIAN-JAPANESE

PHOTOS PETER FRANK EDWARDS

52 real food fall 2019


“Every bite you take

can change the world.”

ANDRÉS IN HIS HOME GARDEN WITH BENNETT HAYNES (LEFT),

MATT GOULDING (MIDDLE), AND DAUGHTER INES.

—José Andrés

every little thing helps: These two little boys

helping a woman crossing the street with

her groceries, or somebody helping their

elderly neighbor taking the garbage out. Life

is full of these moments, and they don’t

seem like very much, but if you put them all

together, they are very powerful.” Andrés

brings up the video of the sea turtle with the

straw up its nose as an example: The video

went viral, inspiring countless numbers of

people to give up straws, emboldening several

restaurant chains to follow suit, which

inspired people to think about what other

plastic products they could live with less of,

such as plastic bags. “Every little thing

counts,” Andrés says. “And, in terms of

food, every little thing helps—to make sure

we are healthier, that maybe we don’t have

so much waste, that we are maybe not all so

overweight. Tiny things—small gestures—

are what make big things happen.”

It was, in fact, a tiny thing that set him on

his path to chefhood. “I remember, I was

very young when my father took me to this

little town where he grew up in Aragon, one

of the regions of Spain. He took us to eat in

this old house, and there was this big fire and

a big old iron pot. With a little bit of bread

and a little bit of fat and one garlic clove, this

relative of mine made us a dish called

migas—this sauté of old bread, kind of

crispy and soft at the same time, served next

to a fried egg. It was only that, and yet it was

so powerful, in so many ways.”

By the time Andrés was 17, he had already

logged a few years working in restaurants,

and landed a job at Il Bulli, the restaurant

of celebrated chef Ferran Adrià. “It was different

than anywhere in the world, not just

Barcelona,” he says, referring to Adrià’s postmodernist

cooking. “It was very simple but

at same time very forward thinking. Nobody

else was having that conversation.”

As far as Andrés was concerned, he had

found the job of his life, and he didn’t plan

on leaving anytime soon. But one rainy

December evening in 1991, a misunderstanding

with Adrià cost him his job.

Distraught, Andrés decided to head to New

York, landing with $50 in his pocket and no

clue what he was going to do. “I fell in love

with the U.S., with New York,” he said. “I like

the spirit and the drive here. It wasn’t like I

wanted to open anything; I just wanted to

be part of what was going on here.”

Still, it was lonely at first for a Spaniard

far away from home, and he began hanging

out at El Cid, a shoebox-sized Spanish tapas

bar in Chelsea. “I was 21, going on 22,”

Andres recalls. “It was the place I hung out

the most. Clemente and his wife, Jolanta,

became like family. He gave me a lot of

encouragement. One of the happiest days of

my life was one day he came to eat at the

restaurant I was working at; the chef had

quit, so technically I was the working chef—

not because they made me chef but because

there was nobody else left. He always told

me, ‘Don’t try to cook any different than you

cook at home. Cook in the way you like and

eventually Americans will like it.’”

That advice served him well. Not long

after, Andrés landed a job in D.C. opening

a restaurant called Jaleo, where the taste

of Spain he put on the plates was so vivid

that it got everyone talking. The following

years were a whirlwind of restaurant openings

and awards (plus a marriage followed

by three kids). But he has always prioritized

his friend’s advice and remembered the

dishes that made him happiest. More often

than not, vegetables play a main role in those

memories: the cauliflower dish his mom

made, her lentil soup or the chickpea-andspinach

stew that’s ubiquitous across Spain.

In fact, he says, vegetables have always

played a major role at his restaurants. It’s

fall 2019 real food 53


“HOME IS ACTUALLY WHERE I COOK

THE MOST,” SAYS ANDRÉS, AT HOME

WITH HIS WIFE AND DAUGHTER

RECIPE AND PHOTOS FROM “VEGETABLES

UNLEASHED” BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS AND MATT

GOULDING ©2019 BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS.

EXCERPTED BY PERMISSION OF ECCO, AN

IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS.

just that we—as Americans—tend to focus

more on the meat. “It’s nothing new; my restaurants

over the years were always very vegetable

friendly, and even more so in restaurants

like Zaytinya, my Mediterranean-Greek-

Turkish place.” What has changed is his belief

that he had to do more to promote vegetables.

“At the end of the day, we believe we need to

bring vegetables forward,” he says. “I mean, we

have almost 50 percent of America that

doesn’t eat vegetables—that’s a very crazy

number! I think anything we can do [to

encourage people to eat more vegetables]

helps rural America, helps farmers markets,

helps the local economy, helps the way we

produce and consume foods, makes us less

reliant on meats, makes us healthier—makes

us in so many ways much more powerful.”

“Vegetables Unleashed” is Andrés’ call to

unleash that power—on ourselves and the

planet. While he’s quiet and contemplative on

the other end of the phone line, in the book

you can practically hear him yelling, “People

of America!” his famous rallying cry. “Did

you know that 87 percent of American adults

don’t meet their daily fruit and vegetable

requirements? Or that 40 percent of kids’

vegetable intake comes from french fries?

FORTY PERCENT!” he writes. A few pages in,

he tells us all the many ways in which our habits

hurt us: Americans throw away 338 million

pounds of produce yearly and $165 billion

worth of food overall, while our obsession

with diets funds a $20-billion industry, and

we remain the least healthy developed nation

on Earth. Keep reading and you’ll learn that

by 2050 the world is projected to have 9 billion

people—more than a meat-based diet could

possibly feed. When you get to the line, “Every

bite you take can change the world,” you know

exactly what he means.

Yet the most compelling reason to eat vegetables

that Andrés gives is flavor. “Think

about it: What happens when you bite into a

piece of meat?” he writes. “The first five seconds

are kind of interesting, but then you

spend another 20 seconds chewing something

that has no flavor. Now think about a pineapple.

As soon as your fork hits the flesh, its

scent fills the air like a wonderful perfume.

Then you bite down: juicy, sweet and acidic,

with notes of passion fruit and citrus and mystery

that linger long after you stop chewing.

That’s what I’m talking about.”

As a chef, he also finds that they offer more

potential for imagination. You can grill or

sauté a steak and top it with different sauces,

but a steak is always a steak. A carrot, on the

other hand, can be grated into a crisp, crunchy

salad; cooked into a soft, hearty curry; ribboned

into fettuccine-like strands for a riff on

pasta; or juiced into a drink—and he gives the

recipes to prove it.

“I think the bad connotations come from

years and years of super badly treated vegetables

that everybody hated,” he says, conjuring

up overboiled broccoli as an example. “Maybe

because the room was full of sulfur, like

Dracula Diego coming from hell.” All you

need to do to avoid this is pay more attention,

he says. His essential tips: Make sure the water

is seasoned—it should be as salty as sea

water—and taste the vegetable you’re cooking

to see when it’s done. And save that cooking

water—it’s essentially instant stock, ready to

add depth and vitamins to soups and stews,

grains and pastas, or even that piece of meat

when you use it to deglaze the pan.

If you don’t have the time or patience to

watch over your boiling vegetables so that they

don’t go from green to gray and slimy, then

choose a different method. Try slow-cooking,

which concentrates flavors while turning the

texture dense and silky. And harness the

power of acidity, whether it’s a spritz of

lemon or a sprinkle of vinegar, to turn up the

volume on flavor.

Andrés’ recipes range from the incredibly

simple (Microwave Cacio e Pepe, a riff on

mac’n’cheese his daughter Lucia inspired) to

professional-chef complex (Vegetable Tempura,

deep-fried battered veggies that even many

Japanese restaurants fail to nail) and cover

nearly every corner of the world. As he puts it,

“I’m not afraid to cook hyphenated cuisine.

Roots are important, as long as they don’t hold

you in place. The beauty of freeing yourself

from any single allegiance is that it allows you

to benefit from the world’s collective wisdom.”

Some jump off the page for their appeal, while

others shock (if you haven’t heard already

about the “Compost Potatoes,” Google it; it

involves cooking potatoes in spent coffee

grounds—as well as whatever else comes out

of the compost bucket). The point, he says, is

to feel free to be creative, to try things. To him,

the most challenging thing about feeding a

family with vegetables isn’t figuring out what

PORTRAIT RYAN FORBES

54 real food fall 2019


to make; it’s stocking the fridge. “What it takes

is so much more space,” he laments. “With a

little chicken you can feed a family of four; to

bring the same power with vegetables, you

need several times more.”

But he has a work-around. “That’s why

pulses and chickpeas and rice and wheat are

so important,” he says. “This is the way you

can fill up an entire family.” The classic example

in Spain is paella, a dish made all over the

country, and one of his favorites as well.

“Every time it’s one dish that’s one pot to feed

everybody, that’s something I always love,”

he says. “And paella, it looks like it’s a special

occasion dish.”

As soon as he says it, though, he seems to

regret it, quickly pointing out his 20-Vegetable

Fried Rice instead. “It’s super cool, and you

can always use leftover rice, even that you got

from the Chinese restaurant; you follow the

recipe and there you have a great dish,” he says.

Pressed as to why not try the paella, he turns

philosophical. “Really, once you master the

technique of the rice, paella is perfectly simple,”

he says. “What you have to understand is

that if you never make [paella], and then you

make it and expect to make it perfect, it’s

never going to happen. You need to be persistent

and do it many times until you achieve

more or less what we would say is perfect; that

you’ve achieved the soccarat,” he says, referring

to the thin layer of crispy rice at the bottom

of a perfectly cooked paella. “There are

even a lot of professional restaurants that

don’t achieve it every time—it’s not easy. And

even sometimes when it’s great, then you get

a writer who complains that the bottom of the

pan was crunchy and lightly burned, and

you’re like, ‘Really?’”

In other words, paella is a lifetime project,

and one you’re in for yourself. For something

to whip up on a Wednesday night , try the fried

rice. Or the Swiss chard and chickpeas, a classic

everyday Spanish meal. Or Mom’s Lentil

Stew, what he calls the chicken noodle soup

of Spain (only this, he points out, can also

turn into a lentil salad, served cold with a vinaigrette

and some chopped vegetables).

Because, as much fun as it is to turn spaghetti

squash into waffles or have a “nori taco

fiesta” (a cross between sushi rolls, tacos and

Korean kimbap)—two fun recipes in

“Vegetables Unleashed”—the mom dishes are

often the ones that really stick with you.

Mom’s Lentil Stew

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Lentil stew is like the chicken noodle soup of Spain—everyone grows up eating it,

and everyone’s mom (because, let’s face it, this is a mom dish more than a dad dish)

makes it just a little bit differently.

There are many types of lentils—tiny green Puy, black belugas, pebbly reds and

yellows. In Spain we would use small brown lentils called pardinas (sold by Goya

in the States), but other types will work. My mom, Marisa, made this into a puree,

blending the tomatoes, onions, carrots and lentils until smooth. She’d top it with a

drizzle of sherry vinegar and little chunks of bread fried in olive oil. Those first few

bites, with the vinegar hitting the roof of your mouth, are sharp, crunchy, smooth

and savory—life-affirming. These have all the same flavors, but with the texture of

the whole lentil intact.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon pimentón

1 pound brown Spanish lentils (pardinas) or other brown lentils,

rinsed and picked over

1 medium white onion, halved

3 small tomatoes, cored

8 cups water

3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick coins

2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

Kosher salt

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and pimentón

and cook until the garlic is golden (be careful not to burn it), 2 to 3 minutes. Add

the lentils, onion, tomatoes and water and bring to a boil over high heat, then turn

the heat down to medium so the soup simmers gently and cook for 20 minutes.

2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onion and tomatoes to a bowl.

3. Add the carrots and potatoes to the pot and cook until the vegetables and lentils

are tender, about 20 minutes longer. Do not overcook—no one wants pasty lentils.

4. Meanwhile, after the tomatoes have cooled a bit, peel them and discard the

skins. Puree the onion and tomatoes in a blender or food processor.

5. Stir the puree into the simmering stew.

6. When the stew is done, season with salt and serve. Or let cool, refrigerate overnight,

and serve the next day, when it will be even more delicious.

fall 2019 real food 55


pairings

Beyond

Nouveau

Beautifully balanced Beaujolais

is a great companion to food

BY MARY SUBIALKA

French wine labels are all about location, so the Gamay grape may not be a

household name. But Beaujolais, the wine made out of those grapes, most likely

rings a bell, and no other area in the world has been able to make the wine as well

as that southern portion of the Burgundy region. One of the most familiar styles you

have probably seen is Beaujolais Nouveau, which is an especially young wine released

a month or two after harvest on the third Thursday in November. This tasty light red is

very popular, but if you also look to other wines from this region, you’ll discover some

selections with a bit more complexity and year-round availability.

Wines simply labeled “Beaujolais” have more substance than Beaujolais Nouveau,

and the next step up is “Beaujolais-Villages.” Wines then labeled with a specific village

name, such as Côte de Brouilly, Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent, are beautifully balanced

and higher quality yet.

Throughout the various quality levels, this light-bodied red wine pairs well with a wide

range of food and has low tannins and a fresh fruity flavor often described as including

black cherry, cranberry and raspberry notes. Try setting it out with a charcuterie board

with a selection of meats and cheeses including Brie, Cheddar and chèvre. Or warm

up with a baked wheel of Brie topped with fruit. If it’s takeout night, Beaujolais even

pairs with pizza and Thai curry dishes. Open a bottle with pasta or risotto with

vegetables. It’s a classic partner with roasted chicken, pork or turkey. And the

wine’s fruity flavors can complement those in a sweet and savory fruity

appetizer or a dessert with cherries, raspberries or strawberries.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food fall 2019


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